APOTA – The Mexican Adventure 2025
 

Backdated ride report from a 60+ day solo motorcycle journey through Ed’s head and mainland Mexico.

One man, one KTM, walking, sweating and figuring it out as he goes.

Originally shared in parts on Facebook — this is the full story, posted here day by day. Not a highlight reel, the real ride.

APOTA Ride Prep — Hope is Not a Strategy
 

Before we get into the ride itself, here’s a quick look at how I prepared — and I use that word loosely.

Training? Absolutely. I’ve been in the gym 5 to 6 days a week for years. But for this trip, I decided to take it next level.

Here’s the training video. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.



Packing? Controlled chaos. Camera gear, backup gear, gear I didn’t need but brought anyway. I left Puerto Peñasco in early February with a KTM 1290 Super Adventure T, no solid schedule, and a route that was “mostly, sorta, kinda” planned.

Right before I left, a guy on the beach named Brian asked me what I was doing. I told him I hoped to do a ride report.

He looked at me and said, “Hope is not a strategy.”

That landed. So here we are — no hoping, just doing. This is me figuring out HUBB and telling the story as it unfolded.

Next post: what kind of ride report this actually is, and how it’s structured.

APOTA Ride Report — How This is Gonna Work
 

Alright, before I start dropping Day 1 and beyond, here’s the setup.

This ride happened earlier this year — starting in early February. I’ve been on the road over 60 days, riding solo through mainland Mexico. These posts are
backdated but were written day-by-day while the trip was happening. I’m posting now that I’ve had time to breathe, sort photos, and clean things up a bit.

So, if you’re wondering why the weather doesn’t match real-time or why it feels like I’m talking from the past — that’s why.

You’ll get one day per post — some longer, some short and sweet. The ride had all the usual ingredients: dirt, pavement, blown plans, great food, weird encounters, and a lot of walking (yeah, I log more steps than most riders would ever admit).

There’s no fake drama, no clickbait, and no affiliate links to my favorite socks. Just the ride, as it happened.

Day 1 – Finally Rolling: Puerto Peñasco to Bahía Kino
 

The ride kicked off from Puerto Peñasco, Mexico where I’d been staged for a bit, living out of the motorhome and getting everything dialed. The bike was packed, the last-minute logistics handled, and when the day came to roll out — I rolled. No fanfare. Just threw a leg over and pointed the front wheel south. And it felt damn good to get moving.

I left Puerto Peñasco early and eased into the first real day of the trip. I’ve been prepping for this for a while now — physically, mentally, mechanically — and there’s still a moment where it doesn’t feel real until you’re on the road. That moment hit today.

Cautious Optimism and a Full Tank (Literally)
I wouldn’t say I was in full-blown adventure mode yet — maybe more like cautiously engaged. I need a few more days before I can say everything feels dialed: me, the bike, the gear, and the headspace. But the first steps were taken, and that counts.

The fuel gauge decided to stick at full, so that will be fun. I tracked mileage manually — burned about 26 liters for the day and got around 43 mpg. No complaints from the bike otherwise. Nothing fell off, nothing rattled loose, and it ran smooth all day.

Body Check
I’m in good shape overall, but I’m not in full riding shape yet. Stiffness crept in after an hour or so. I had to stop and stretch often — swinging arms, shaking things loose, walking it off. The birthday count might be catching up a bit. I figure a few more days and my body will settle in.

Roads, Stops, and Slalom Mode
Highway 3 served up the usual mixed bag:
• About half the ride was smooth and easy
• Some rough patches and cracked pavement
• A few legit pothole slalom zones with sand in the holes for fun

No sketchy traffic, no wild gravel, just the usual flavor of Mexican roads. The 1290 soaked it up and kept me rolling.

Only a few official stops: a customs-style checkpoint and two quick chats with local police. Standard stuff — “Where you going?” and “Can I see your registration?” — nothing serious. One survey-looking checkpoint I bypassed without issue.

Landing in Bahía Kino
Rolled into Bahía Kino and scouted a bit before settling on a basic hotel. Small, laid-back town with a decent pier and a quiet energy. I had fish tacos at Brisas Del Mar — killer meal and a solid ocean view to end the day.

Photos from Day 1
Instead of embedding individual pictures, I’m experimenting with short slideshow-style videos for this ride report. This first one is more of a pilot — just a handful of photos, some narration, some text, and it runs about 60 seconds. It’s a work in progress and will evolve into whatever it should be. Future posts will include more images, and maybe more narration… or maybe none, if it’s just pics. A bit more polish will come as I settle into the workflow.



Day 1 Takeaways
• Gotta stretch more and ease into riding shape
• Fuel gauge isn’t working, so it’s all range math from here
• Packing system still evolving — need better access to daily gear
• Roads are hit-and-miss, but manageable. No big surprises

Tomorrow, head south and make it .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

Nice!

:scooter::D

APOTA Day-2 : Bahía Kino to San Carlos
 

Easy Miles and Flying Driveshafts

A short and easy ride today — just 120 miles from Bahía Kino to San Carlos, with about two and a half hours in the saddle. The roads were a little better than Day 1, but still had their fair share of potholes. Nothing wild, just enough to keep you alert.

A “What the Hell Was That?” Moment
I pulled over mid-morning for a water break and stretch. While I was standing there, a propane truck rumbled past. Something about it sounded off — a weird metal clatter or vibration I couldn’t quite pin down. Didn’t think too much of it at the time.

A few miles later, I saw that same truck pulled over on the shoulder… but what really caught my eye was the chunk of something massive lying in the middle of the road.

At first, I thought it was a tire. But as I got closer, I realized it was the truck’s driveshaft — full assembly, hanger bearing and all. Looked like 120 pounds of twisted steel, maybe 10 feet long, just sitting there on the blacktop like a missile someone forgot to launch.

That thing could’ve killed someone.

If I’d been riding behind that truck when it let go, it would’ve been ugly. No room to dodge, no time to react. Just a flying chunk of steel coming at you at highway speed. So yeah — a reminder to anyone riding out here: don’t hang too close behind anything big. Blown tires, brake drums, driveshafts… there’s plenty on the road that can turn your day (or your life) upside down.

Checkpoint Quickie
One police checkpoint at an intersection near a station. They asked where I was headed, took a look at my driver’s license, gave the bike a once-over, and waved me on. Nothing complicated.

Landing in San Carlos
San Carlos made a good first impression. It’s noticeably cleaner and more organized than Bahía Kino, with more restaurants and a bit of structure. I cruised around town for a while before checking into the Totonaka RV Park. Overpaid for a small room — but as an RV guy, I wanted to see what the park was like. It’s a solid setup. Definitely nicer than anything I’ve seen in Puerto Peñasco. Lots of Canadians around.

Could be a place to spend more time in the future — maybe an RV stop next year?

Day 2 Takeaways
• Easy miles, no rush — short days are underrated
• Don’t ride close behind trucks — ever
• San Carlos is worth exploring more
• Hitting the gym on the road? 100% worth it

Tomorrow? No clue yet. Might stick around and explore for another day. I know, no food porn today — kept it on the sun side so my snacks stayed warm. Priorities.

Good day and it's .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

Photos from Day 2
Another short slideshow-style video again today — I’m still playing with format. This one’s just a few photos and clips, nothing dramatic, but it gives a feel for the day.

APOTA Day 3 – San Carlos & Guaymas : A Chill Day, No Miles, No Regrets
 

No big ride today. Just stayed local, rolled around San Carlos, dipped into Guaymas for a bit, and called it good.

Guaymas – Big City Vibes
I cruised into Guaymas mid-day just to have a look. It definitely has a bigger city feel — a mix of older, funkier buildings and newer big box stores and fast food joints. The Malecón was quiet, not much going on for a Thursday afternoon. It wasn’t bad, but I didn’t feel the need to linger. It was one of those places you check out and then turn back toward what feels better — and San Carlos feels better.

Back in San Carlos
I spent most of the day riding around town and soaking in the setting. San Carlos reminds me a lot of Phoenix — desert landscape, rocky hills, saguaros all over — but unlike Phoenix, there’s actually a sea with a beach here. That part makes all the difference.

Took a long walk down the beach in the afternoon. The ocean breeze was solid, and the sunset later on was perfect — that quiet kind of beauty that slows your head down. One of those days that makes you grateful you’re not on a schedule.

Low-Key Moments
Back at the RV park, the Canadians were all gathered under the palapa watching TV, camp chairs out, plastic cups in hand. Felt like being at the lake as a kid in a weird way. I didn’t stay long, but it made me smile.

I pretty much snacked my way through the day — street food, whatever caught my eye. No pics, my bad. Probably because I was too hungry by the time I got to anything.

Tinkering and Small Wins
Spent a bit of time adjusting the luggage setup and sorting a few pieces of gear that had been bothering me since Day 1. Just small tweaks, but it helps. Talked to a few folks around the park — always good for a couple of stories. And in a completely random surprise, the fuel gauge decided to start working again. Not a clue why, but I’ll take it. Small victories.

Photos from Day 3
Just a handful of clips and photos today — no big riding shots, but it captures the vibe. Slow pace, quiet town, sunsets and beach scenes.



Tomorrow, more of making it .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

APOTA Day-4 – San Carlos to Álamos: A Taste of Old Mexico
 

Today started slow, no rush, no big miles. I spent the morning chatting with folks around the RV park, packing up at an easy pace, and finally rolled out of San Carlos around 11 AM. The route to Álamos wasn’t long, just under 200 miles, and I was in no hurry.

Getting There – Roads and Headspace
I didn’t have a fully locked-in route, so I ended up on more toll roads than expected. Still working through a bit of that Mexico travel anxiety, not quite comfortable yet picking the sketchy looking backroads over the main routes. Some of the toll avoidance options looked like time-eaters, so I stuck with the direct way.

The ride itself was smooth. Cool in the morning, warmer as the day went on. The bike ran perfect, and I stopped a few times to stretch and take it all in. Small victory: the fuel gauge is still working.

Rolling Into Álamos – A Shift in Vibe
Álamos felt different the second I rolled in. Streets twisted and narrowed into alleys, some ending without warning, others shrinking to the width of a walking lane. Stone roads, curbs and sidewalks three feet high, and colors everywhere , this place felt like something old, something preserved. The charm hit hard.

Finding a Place to Stay
I tried a couple of spots , one looked abandoned, not a soul around. I circled a few times and moved on. Ended up at Hotel Dolisa, which had secure parking and a decent setup, 1500 pesos for the night. More than I hoped, but it felt right. Welcome to 2025 — everything costs more.

Luis the Taco Guy / Local Ambassador
After unpacking, I headed into town and found a taqueria at the first plaza. That’s where I met Luis, taco chef, guide, and nonstop talker. His English matched my Spanish, which meant conversations were hilarious and basically a mix of words, gestures, and mutual guessing.

Didn’t matter. We communicated. He pulled out his phone, started showing me videos of places I had to see, Mazamitla, Juanacatlán, Val’Quirico — and tried hard to talk me into staying until Sunday for a 200-vehicle car show in the plaza. Classic cars, bikes, the whole deal. Tempting.

And the tacos? Excellent. Big, flavorful, and with a bottle of water, the whole meal cost me 75 pesos. Total win.

Exploring Álamos
After eating, I walked to the second plaza. This one was just as alive — cathedral, street vendors, restored hotels, people everywhere. The vibe was tourist-friendly but not fake. More like a place that’s still proud of its history. Security presence was noticeable, lots of rent-a-guards and private patrol types , but it didn’t feel tense. It felt safe and welcoming.

Route Talk – Highway 188
I asked a handful of locals about heading south on Route 188. Not one gave it a good report. Descriptions ranged from “completely destroyed” to “bad people” and “stealers.” That was enough for me. I’m solo, and my gut says backtrack to Hwy 15 and head south from there. Feels like the smarter call.

Photos from Day 4
Snapped a few shots and clips today, mostly around Álamos streets, plazas, and the small details that give the place its soul. Video below if you want to get a feel for the place.



Day 4 Takeaways
• Álamos was my first real taste of an old Mexican town, and I loved it
• Travel anxiety is still present, but fading
• Conversations over tacos might be the best part of this whole thing
• The fuel gauge still works (for now)
• Starting to settle into the rhythm of the ride

Tomorrow? More miles, more exploring,
and whatever comes next .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

APOTA Day 5 – Álamos to Guamúchil
 

Maintenance and Miles
Not every day on the road is going to be wild, and honestly, that’s not a bad thing. Some days are about forward movement, getting things done, and settling deeper into the rhythm of the ride.

I started the morning in Álamos with some basics. Fuel up, bank stop to top up pesos, and a quick chain oiling. No rush, no drama — just slow rolling out and getting moving.

Highway 188 – Taking the Gamble
Originally I’d planned to avoid Highway 188 after some rough reports from some locals, but while fueling up I talked to a few guys at the station who gave me a different take. No mention of anything sketchy, the worst they had to say was about bad drivers, not bad people. That was enough for me to take a chance on it.

The road itself was better than expected. Some potholes, a few rough patches, and maybe three spots where you could tell it had been washed out and rebuilt recently. Nothing I’d call dangerous or sketchy. Definitely not pristine, but no worse than a typical Mexican back highway so far. I figure that’s what the earlier warnings were about. Glad I took it.

Aside from that, the ride was uneventful. And sometimes that’s a win. No surprises, no weirdness, just road, throttle, and thinking time.

Landing in Guamúchil
I rolled into Guamúchil in the late afternoon. No big meals, no big moments, just a quiet night and a decent room. Grabbed some food, reset a bit, and geared down. It was a maintenance and miles day, and that’s part of the adventure too.

Photos from Day 5
Didn’t shoot much today — just a few road clips and snapshots. It was one of those ride days where the camera stayed in the tank bag.

Tomorrow I head to Mazatlán. I’m expecting a bit more going on there.

getting a little more comfortable with Mexico everyday & that is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

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APOTA Day 6 – Guamúchil to Mazatlán
 

Miles, Checkpoints, and First Impressions
Another uneventful but solid day on the road. About 190 miles south. Fuel gauge still working, bike running great. No complaints.

I left Guamúchil and headed toward Culiacán, then cut across through farming country — a lot of lefts and rights, and rights and lefts. Eventually jumped onto the bigger road, paid a few tolls, and made my way into Mazatlán.

Saw a lot of Guardia Nacional and military vehicles along the way — small convoys of three to six trucks rolling up and down the highway north of Mazatlán. Hit a couple of checkpoints too, but it was all smiles and waves through again.

Starting to think it’s some kind of setup to let me get deep into the country before someone actually checks my papers and realizes they’re wrong.

First Impressions of Mazatlán
Rolled into town and first met up with a friend at one of the local RV parks. After catching up for a bit, I went looking for a place to stay. Ended up finding a small, simple hotel right on the main strip near all the big resort zones. Not fancy — just a basic three-star setup — but exactly what I wanted.

The hotel has a gated entrance with good security, and I was able to park the bike safely out front. It has pool chairs for chilling out and is right across the street from the beach. It’s not somewhere I’m going to spend much time indoors anyway, so it works perfectly as a base to explore Mazatlán.

The city itself? Big, flashy, and kind of “All-Inclusive Vegas” energy. Not sure how long I’ll stay — maybe a couple of days, maybe less. I’ll check it out, rest up a bit, and see what it has to offer.

Looking Ahead
Once I leave Mazatlán, it gets more interesting. I plan to head up Highway 40 toward Durango and start hitting some of the places and sights I have been looking forward to for a while.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. For now, it’s enough to say the anxiety is easing off, the bike is solid, and I’m just enjoying the ride and seeing where it takes me.

too much fun and .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

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APOTA Day-7 : Explore Mazatlán
 

Markets, Murals, and Small Moments
Got a great night’s sleep, must have needed it. I was up early and took a morning walk on the beach, which turned out to be a pretty solid way to start the day. Grabbed a coffee, came back to the hotel, sat by the pool for a bit, soaked up some sun, and figured out a plan. While I was at it, I found a self-guided walking tour online that looked interesting. Decided that was the move for the day.

Packed a small backpack, threw on sandals, and jumped on one of the green buses that run through town. Thirteen pesos later, I was dropped off right near the main market.

The Market and Old Mazatlán
The market is massive, over 250 vendors inside, plus all the shops, art galleries, and street stalls surrounding it. Total chaos in the best way. I know it gets even busier when the cruise ships roll in, but even today, it had plenty of people and plenty of energy.

The walking tour was a great call. It took me through some amazing architecture and artwork. Something about Mexican art just feels alive, raw, colorful, expressive, full of energy. The area had a strong arts district vibe, with galleries, murals, and a beautiful old theater. Outside the theater, I caught an older couple dancing together on the sidewalk, one of those little unexpected moments that makes a place feel real. Unfortunately, the theater itself was locked, so no peek inside.

Next stop was the Basilica. Massive, intricate, and busy. It was not just tourists either, locals stopping to touch statues, kneel, pray. Hard to capture in words. Powerful place.

Malecón and the Old Fremont Hotel
I wandered down to the Malecón and stopped at what used to be the Old Fremont Hotel, now a Best Western. Took the elevator to the rooftop bar and pool deck. Unreal views of Mazatlán from up there. Met a few fellow Canadians who shared some local intel, always good to pick up more information on the area.

Best Ceviche and a Little Help from the Locals
Later, down at street level, my phone was running low. Thought about buying a charger, but a small street vendor shop offered to charge it for me instead. Locked the screen, handed it over, and trusted the flow.

While it charged, I grabbed some street ceviche, easily some of the best I have ever had. Ordering was a team effort. Every local at the stand pitched in to help me figure out the order. Lots of laughing, mostly at my Spanish, but all good energy. Great food, great people, and a great memory.

The Bus Back, Eventually
Wandered back toward the bus stops and caught a green bus again, thirteen pesos. Small note to self, check the direction before getting on. I ended up on a longer, loopy ride back, but eventually landed near the hotel. No harm done.

Looking Ahead
Tomorrow, who knows. Maybe Stone Island, maybe more beach time, maybe something totally different. Just playing it by ear.

Way too many photos from today, markets, murals, plazas, but I will include a few highlights.

Getting in the groove is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

You Tube Slide Show:

Apota day 8
 

Lazy Beach Day In Mazatlán
Yep, still in Mazatlán, taking it slow. Very lazy day, seemed to be exactly what I need.

Started the morning with coffee, caught up on a few phone calls by the pool, then grabbed a simple breakfast before heading to the beach, where I stayed all day.
Music from Brentsters in the background, feet in the sand, just chilling and soaking it all in.
And
That was pretty much it. When I was done the beach shopped for a few necessities and cleaned up to end the day at La Catrina. Fun little spot, where a really great band played some fun tunes until about 9. Didn’t catch the name, but they made for a great night.

No big adventures today, no deep reflections—just a beach, some music, and a reminder that this isn’t a race.
Just lazily thinking about the miles and adventures ahead.
This whole slow down, breathe, and feel the sand between my toes thing—it’s really the way to do this.
It feels right , right now .. good enough for me

Was even a slow picture day.

And tomorrow? Who knows—maybe rinse and repeat.
because even bummin is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

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APOTA Day-9
 

The Beach Report—Stone Island Edition

Can’t believe I’m already on Day 9 of going to see Andy and Red, hoping they’ll wait for me:rofl. So yes, still in Mazatlán, but the wheels start turning again tomorrow.
So no motorcycle ride report—this is still the beach report.
After a leisurely start to the morning, I got my poop in a group, packed a backpack, threw on my flip-flops, and jumped on a green bus headed for the boat ferry to Stone Island.

Stone Island—Big Beach, Horses, Iguanas, Big Questions
Huge , very cool beach. Full of people, vendors, and a cruise ship crowd. A bit circus like maybe, horseback rides on the sand, a guy on a quad with a giant iguana charging people for photos, banana boat rides, and plenty of food and drink.

Had some time to talk with a few locals (those with a bit of English to match my pathetic Spanish), and there’s definitely some tension in the air. Tourism is way down, and people are hesitant to travel or even go out at night because of recent cartel activity.
There was even an incident near my hotel last night—shots fired, but details are murky. Some say two shots, some say more, and no one seems to know if anyone was hurt or if it was just noise. Plenty of rumors, no real answers.
The locals are watching closely to see what happens with Carnival—huge event, huge parade, expected to bring tons of people. But will they actually show up? Hard to say, since so many are scared to travel right now.

And yet… here I am in Mexico. Not sure what that says about my sanity.??

Back to Centro—One Last Round at the Market
After wandering Stone Island, checking out the harbor, the town, and the quieter side of things, I grabbed a green bus back to town.
And I couldn’t resist—had to go back to the market. There’s just so much to see, and the food is ridiculously good. Walked around, took in the sights, grabbed something to eat, and then made my way back to start packing up for the ride ahead.

Tomorrow - A Ride to Look Forward To
Tomorrow morning, I roll out early (that is the plan), taking the old Highway 40 toward Durango. Really looking forward to that road—apparently twisty, scenic, and full of history. Sounds like my kind of ride.

Still not sure what the plan is once I hit Durango. The new toll road is supposed to be incredible, but do I double back and take that, or head down the backroads toward Ruiz? Haven’t decided yet.
Playing it by ear, as you can tell, that’s kind of the theme of this trip anyway.

Plenty of fun pictures from today—big beach, horses, iguanas, good food, and another solid day in Mexico.

Life is good and is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

APOTA Day-10 : Riding the Old Highway 40
 

Sketchy Roads, Armed Encounters, and Mountain Towns

Got up early, packed up, and rolled out of the room. First stop was to fuel up and get a last-minute report on the old Highway 40. It sounded as positive as any other report, so that was the plan. Left Mazatlán and headed into the mountains.
Getting to Highway 40 was uneventful.

The Wild Ride Up Highway 40
Old Highway 40 is something else. Twisty, scenic, and a whole lot of sketchy. There is everything on that road: rocks across the lanes, some the size of small cars, full-on rockslides, fallen trees, loose sand, and gravel covering some corners. Cows and horses wander freely.

Had to stop once because a group of horses was being herded down the road by a guy in a pickup truck. The only way past a rockslide blocking the road was to wait for them to clear the way.

The road itself is not in terrible shape, but you do not want to come flying around a blind corner at speed and find yourself face-to-face with a boulder, a tree, or a bunch of livestock. It keeps you on your toes, to put it lightly.

An Unexpected Encounter
At one point, I pulled off near a small town called Revolcaderos to adjust some gear. Normally, I stay pretty aware of what is going on around me, but I got a little too focused on what I was doing.

Next thing I know, there is a guy standing right beside me. Mid-twenties, rifle in hand. Beside him, a teenager, maybe fifteen or sixteen years old, also carrying a rifle.

That got my attention.

They just stood there, watching me. It was one of those moments where the background music should start playing, something banjo heavy. I really hoped these were not the bad guys. They did not have that bad guy look or attitude though.

One of them rattled off something in Spanish. I said “No Español.” He nodded, said something like “Todos buenos,” meaning “all good.”

I said “Sí.” They gave a wave and walked away.

No idea what that was about. They did not look like hunters, more like some kind of local vigilante group or peacekeepers. Maybe protecting the town, maybe just checking what I was up to. Either way, it was bizarre. I did not stick around to find out more. Got back on the bike and got moving.

Rolling Into El Salto
Eventually made it to El Salto. I stopped early because I needed to tinker with a few things on the bike and called it a day.

Checked Sjoerd’s guidebook and found two hotel options. One was in town, Hotel Pino, and another with the old steam locomotive out front, now called Real de Bosque. Picked the latter. Secured a room for about forty dollars, with the bike tucked away safely right outside.

Threw on some gear and went out to explore. El Salto is a busy little town. It feels like a shopping hub for the smaller towns in the area. Tons of stores, all ready for business, people coming and going, and as usual, lots of places to eat. Grabbed some tacos, took a few photos, and pretty much just wandered around checking the place out.

The town itself has a really industrial logging town feel. Also noticed huge aqueduct-style gutters running through town. Must get massive water flow in the spring.

And they have a 24 Hour Funeral Shop. If you look close in the picture, you can see the coffins on display inside.

Tomorrow – Finishing the Old 40 and Figuring Out What’s Next
Tomorrow I will finish the ride up the old Highway 40 into Durango, then figure out the next move. The new toll road looks absolutely incredible. I caught glimpses of it while riding today, and it is tempting.

Do I double back and ride it? Or do I take the backroads down to Ruiz? Still undecided. And it is not like I am off schedule, or even have one.

The Bike and Gear – No Complaints
The bike is running great. Fuel gauge still working, no issues so far, and I am really happy with the setup.

Everything from the riding gear to the luggage system is doing what it should, and that makes a big difference. No frustrations, just loving the ride and loving Mexico.

APOTA Day-11 the Mexican Adventure
 

Durango, The Toll Road, and El Rosario

Woke up in El Salto and had to take care of a few life maintenance tasks. Made a couple of phone calls, sorted some things out, and then fueled up before hitting the road.

The rest of the old Highway 40 into Durango was nothing like the wild ride the day before. It was way tamer, not nearly as dramatic, just steady riding and covering ground. Actually, the curves were a little more open, so you could carry a bit more speed, which made for a fun, flowing ride.

I rolled into Durango, grabbed a quick coffee, but didn’t feel any pull to stick around. The plan was already forming in my head—to double back down the toll road. Everyone says it’s spectacular, and I wanted to see it for myself. One hundred fifteen bridges and sixty-eight tunnels sounded like something worth riding.

The Durango Toll Road, Bridges, Tunnels
That road is a serious piece of engineering. Massive bridges stretch over deep valleys, tunnels cut straight through the mountains, and for the most part, the pavement is smooth enough to let you enjoy it all. There were a few potholes and some tunnel work going on, so I hit a couple of stops and backups, but nothing major.

It was the right call. No regrets riding that road. You could carry speed through a lot of it, not pushing anything crazy, just enjoying the ride and the view.

At the bottom, I turned south and continued on Highway 15, heading toward El Rosario.

El Rosario, A Sleepy but Impressive Stop
I rolled into El Rosario in the late afternoon. First impressions? Pretty cool little place. It had a relaxed, lived-in feel, especially compared to the hustle of towns like El Salto or San Carlos. Clean streets, slower pace, locals just going about their day.

Checked into a really nice hotel, Hotel Yauco, for thirty-six dollars. Just as I was settling in, I heard the cathedral bells ringing. I had to check it out.

When I got there, I saw the ropes hanging down from the bell tower. No automated system—just real people pulling real ropes to ring the bells. Something about that felt grounded and good. There was even a castle-like tower that looked like it belonged in a fairytale. I joked to myself about Rapunzel letting her hair down, even though it’s a church, not a prison.

All kidding aside, the cathedral itself was impressive for its size. A mass was going on. I grabbed a few photos, took in the atmosphere, then wandered a bit more. Found out they’re also restoring another old cathedral in town.

Later I found a park with a lake and a suspension bridge that led to an island. There was even a zip line stretching across the water. Looks like it’s been out of commission for a while, but still a funky little corner of the town.

After walking the town, I grabbed something quick to eat—nothing fancy—and called it an early night.

Tomorrow, A Short Ride to San Blas?
Might just take an easy day and head to San Blas. Maybe I keep it short, maybe not. Depends on how the morning feels. All I know is I am heading south.

and no road pics today.

But here is a bit of a pic dump:

APOTA Day-12 – El Rosario to San Blas
 

Palm Trees, Pit Stops, and a Saturday Night Crowd

Packed up, fueled up, and headed out of El Rosario toward San Blas. Got a reasonably early start and took the toll-free highways 15, 72, and 54. It was one of those days where you just enjoy the ride, the countryside, and the smells of the trees and plants as everything starts to shift. As I moved south, the landscape got greener, maybe even a little tropical. Not sure if it’s technically tropical yet, but it felt like it. Seeing palm trees again was a good sign.

It was hot today, but really only when stopped or riding slow in direct sun. Once moving, there was a perfect breeze that made for fantastic riding conditions. Loved that.

The Unexpected and Fun Pit Stop in Reynosa
While riding the other day, I had the idea to mount my phone somewhere so I could snap road photos while riding. Nothing fancy, just something to make it easier to grab quick shots. Problem was, I needed a drill, or at least someone with one.

Enter Reynosa, and two guys named Pedro and Enrique.

I stopped at a small shop. Not modern, kind of a mix between a tire repair place, a junk pile, and a siesta hangout. Between my terrible Spanish, their terrible English, Google Translate, and a whole lot of gestures, I managed to explain what I needed. They got it right away.

Enrique jumped on a bicycle and rode off looking for a drill. Pedro started digging around for bits, and we began prepping. Enrique came back a few minutes later with a drill, but the chuck wouldn’t grip the small bit we needed. After more chatter, he took off again. Meanwhile, Pedro and I kept tinkering with what we had until he suddenly remembered another drill he had stashed somewhere.

He brought it out, and we were in business. A few minutes later, the hole was drilled, the mount was in place, and the job was done. They refused to take any money. Just a handshake and “buen viaje.” Eventually I managed to press a little cash on them, took a couple of pictures, and rolled on. Moments like that are why I love riding in Mexico. The people are something else.

Rolling Into San Blas
The rest of the ride was smooth. I stopped a couple of times to take in the scenery and eventually rolled into San Blas in the afternoon. A couple of hotels were full, which had me mildly concerned, but one of them pointed me toward Hotel Familia.

It turned out to be a great spot. Family-run, with a nice restaurant out front and secure parking out back. They gave me a garage remote for the private lot behind the building, probably enough room for eight or ten cars. I asked if taking up a car spot with the bike was okay, and they immediately offered a better idea — park on the cement pad in the garden where they grow plants. They even suggested putting a cover on it so it wouldn’t get covered in “plant juice” overnight.

Very safe, very welcoming. Room was 850 pesos.

I took a photo with the owner standing next to the bike, threw on the cover, changed into town-exploring clothes, and went for a walk.

Lots of Motorbikes and a Saturday Night Crowd
San Blas was alive. Crowds everywhere, Saturday night energy. I didn’t make it down to the beach, but I explored the waterfront, the marina, and wandered through town. Not a ton to see, but it’s a well-known birdwatching destination.

What stood out the most? Motorbikes. It felt like I had suddenly been dropped into Southeast Asia. Bikes everywhere — on every corner, cutting through traffic, weaving between cars and pedestrians. You had to stay alert just to cross the street. Seemed like an odd thing to see in a town this size, but clearly it’s how the locals get around.

In the main plaza, they were setting up a huge stage. By 8 PM, it was in full swing. I grabbed a spot at one of the plaza restaurants and had some fantastic enchiladas while watching the crowd build. Turned out to be a whole lot of loud music, speeches, and more speeches. After an hour of waiting for something to actually happen, I gave up and wandered back to the hotel.

From my room, I could still hear the party rolling well past midnight. Big crowd, big volume, big night in San Blas.

Oh Yeah, The Phone Mount — Right Idea, Bad Workability
That phone mount we installed? Good idea in theory. In practice, not great. The vibration was bad enough to make most of the pictures unusable. I might salvage something from it, but it’s not the solution I hoped for.

I’ve got a GoPro too, but it brings its own issues. Still figuring all of that out. Not critical, just something I’ll keep messing with when time allows.

Tomorrow – Southbound With as Much Coastal as Possible
Tomorrow I head south again. Maybe Bucerías. Maybe Puerto Vallarta. Maybe somewhere else entirely. I’ll figure it out in the morning.

San Blas just felt like the kind of stop I needed
because too much fun is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

Here is a slideshow of the day..

APOTA Day-13 San Blas to Punta de Mita:
 

Slow Miles, Surf Vibes, and Tree Tunnels

Pretty laid-back day. I didn’t cover many miles, but it still took some time. Just a 90-mile cruise down to Punta de Mita. Not much in the way of distance, but it was a scenic one.

The Ride – Coastal Views and Tree Tunnels
The road south had some beautiful stretches. It weaved in and out of coastal sections where I could catch glimpses of the Pacific, then ducked into dense, shaded corridors where the trees formed a tunnel overhead. The ocean was never far, and everything felt greener, thicker, and more tropical the farther I went.

The flip side? The road was rough in a few sections. Lots of topes, lots of tiny towns, and plenty of resort areas where the traffic slows to a crawl. It was Sunday, and nearly every town had something going on. In two of them, the main road was completely shut down. One seemed to be hosting a horse event, the other a full festival.

Even with the slow pace, it was one of those days that felt easy. No rush, no real agenda, just rolling along and seeing what the day offered. I didn’t know where I’d end up, but when I got to Punta de Mita, it felt like the right place to stop.

Punta de Mita – Luxury Meets Surf Culture
This place is interesting. It’s a beach town split right down the middle. On one side, you’ve got high-end real estate offices, boutique stores, and condo listings that start around two hundred seventy-five thousand and climb into the millions. On the other side, you’ve got surfers walking barefoot, carrying boards and six-packs of beer, looking like they’re here for sun and swells.

It’s a strange mix. Some people are dressed to impress, straight out of a resort catalog, while others look like they live out of their van.

I walked around for a bit, checked out the beach and the surf crowd, and wandered out onto the lighthouse rock jetty. Nice place, but I didn’t feel the need to dig in too deep. It’s polished, a little upscale for this kind of trip, but made for a good place to call it early.

Grabbed a fantastic chicken quesadillas at El Coral. Simple but excellent. Hit the spot after a day of slow riding.

Tomorrow – Heading Inland?
Not sure what the plan is yet. I think it’s time to leave the coast and head inland toward Guadalajara, but I’ll spend some time with the maps tonight and figure it out from there.

Apota Day-14 : Punta de Mita to Mascota
 

Best Laid Plans of Mice and...
The plan was to see some folks in the Puerto Vallarta area, but the morning just got away from me. Spent too much time on the phone, and then tinkering with the bike (loose bolt issue, must be the smooth streets), and before I knew it, half the day was gone.
I really appreciate the generosity of the people that asked I visit, but when I thought about spending the whole day in PV versus getting back on the road, I realized this trip is more about exploring real, authentic Mexico than hanging around hustling, bustling resort towns where everything is new, shiny, and full of tourists. Someplace I’d fly into to enjoy, maybe.

So, around noon, I made the call, I’ll catch up with everyone another time. Time to hit the road.
And yes, I made one last Walmart stop in Bucerías before leaving town.

The Ride, Twisties, Potholes, and Pure Fun
Once I got going, and found the road to Mascota it was fantastic. Twists, curves, and beautiful mountain countryside.
The first stretch was a bit slow, with lots of small towns and stop-and-go traffic, but once I got out into the country, it turned into one of the most fun roads yet.
The pavement wasn’t perfect, plenty of potholes meant you couldn’t get too carried away with the speed. You’re dodging potholes mid-curve, which definitely keeps things interesting. But the scenery, the flow of the road, and the ride itself? Beyond belief. Don’t even think I saw a rock on the road.

Rolling Into Mascota, Authentic, Historic, and Just Cool
First stop in Mascota was AutoZone, needed a couple of nuts and washers to secure something on the bike that had loosened up. Quick fix, no problem.
Then I found the coolest little hotel, the Hotel La Casona De La Esmerelda, very old-school, full of character, with a beautiful courtyard, open grassy area, and secure parking inside the yard.

And then she hands me the key.
When she handed it to me, I couldn’t believe it, one of those massive old keys, and the most archaic locking mechanism I’ve seen in ages. Might have to do a separate post just about this hotel because it’s got so much personality. There are better options in town I’m sure, but this was just so cool.

Exploring Mascota, A Hidden Gem
Mascota is one of those places that feels untouched in all the right ways. Historic, funky, and full of interesting little spots.
All over the centro of town, they have signs pointing to all the local sites, the plaza, the museum, the church, the parks. Makes it easy to just wander and take it all in.
Best sidewalks I’ve seen in Mexico so far, seriously. Most of the town’s sidewalks are in fantastic shape. And downtown, they’ve made the corners handicap-accessible in many areas, which you don’t see everywhere. The streets, on the other hand, are stone-paved, rough, and winding all over the place. Some of them are just wide enough for one car, while others cut at weird angles, it’s a total maze.
I spent some time just walking around, taking it all in. There’s a much stronger sense of history here than I have seen so far, and the town has done a great job preserving its charm.

Simple Food
Didn’t go for anything fancy, just grabbed some street tacos, picked up a few snacks from a small grocery store, and called it a night.

Tomorrow, Guadalajara Bound
Hoping to get an early start in the morning and head toward Guadalajara. So pumped for the ride ahead, this trip is turning out even better than expected.
Far better than expected. Thanks for the push guys.

APOTA Day-15 : Mascota to Talpa de Allende to Cocula
 

Twisty and Hot, the Adventure Continues

Today was another fantastic day. I know you are getting tired of hearing that, but I am just so amazed at Mexico.

Finally got an early start and hit the road while it was still a bit cool out. You guys had mentioned Talpa de Allende, so I did a bit of interweb investigation, and when I checked the map, it wasn’t far off my route. The town looked interesting, and the road looked fun, so I decided to detour and check it out.

And wow, this town was a beehive of activity. You actually knew that as soon as you turned off Highway 70 onto the road to Talpa de Allende, because of all the tour buses going in and out.

Talpa de Allende — Apparently a Pilgrimage Destination
Talpa de Allende was buzzing. Shops, markets with more shops, and a plaza that was absolutely rocking. People, adults, little ponies, kids, nuns, cops directing traffic.

Kiko mentioned something about Peregrinos (pilgrims) traveling to Talpa, which apparently happens a few times a year. Maybe that explained the crowds and the endless rows of market stalls. Vendors were selling everything imaginable for the religious festivals that bring people here. I’m guessing, folks.

The people were so friendly, and the energy of the town was something to see. Definitely worth the detour, and honestly, it would have been a great place to overnight. But since it was still early in the day, I decided to carry on. Cal, you may be here for many days.

The Ride — Fun, Smooth Road, Big Heat
From Talpa, I continued on Highway 70, which turned out to be a great road. Lots of twisties, not a lot of potholes, and just a plain old good road through the mountains.

Hot day, though. Somewhere north of 90°F (33–35°C), and every time I stopped, it was in the shade.
I had planned to stop in Ameca, but it was still reasonably early, so I figured I’d push a little farther. Cocula looked like a good place to stop for the night, just another few minutes down the road.

Well… that is, if you don’t miss the turn.
I somehow managed to overshoot the turn leaving Ameca, which meant taking a bit of a longer way around, but I got there in the end.

Cocula — Another Happening Spot
Found a really nice, modern hotel, the Real Cocula Hotel, for 1100 pesos, but worth it. Got settled in, threw on shorts, a t-shirt, and flip-flops, and went out to explore.

So the Mystery Explosions and a Procession
Just as I left the hotel, I heard loud bangs. Like, really loud. Louder than gunshots. It was one of those moments where you stop and think, “Okay, what exactly is that?”

The bangs were spaced apart. One loud blast, then silence, then another blast. Didn’t sound like fireworks.

As I walked, I started to hear bands playing, and about three blocks later, I found a big procession. A band was leading the way, followed by kids in traditional indigenous costumes dancing, people carrying a statue of Christ on a Cross, pallbearer style, and another band bringing up the rear.
It had the feel of a funeral procession, but I don’t actually know the meaning behind it. Whatever it was, it was incredible to see. Got a video, but I’ll just include pictures here.

Oh, and a guy walking behind randomly putting a cannon down and shooting off a single large bang.

Big Church by the Plaza
From the outside, it’s not the most ornate, but step inside, and it’s a whole different story. Gold everywhere. Around the altar, covering the walls, statues shining. Over the top, extravagant, and amazing to see.

There were even a couple of other big churches in town too, but this one stood out.
And the plaza was very busy, full of energy, lots of shops, and just alive.
Grabbed some tacos from a street vendor. Really good, but forgot to take a picture before devouring them. Heat must’ve got to me.

Tomorrow — Guadalajara?
Still not 100 percent sure if I’m heading into Guadalajara or not. Gonna sleep on it and decide in the morning.

One thing’s for sure — I’m loving this ride.

Parade in Cocula



Here is the Pic Dump

APOTA Day-16
 

Short Ride, but Some Great Intel

Took a short ride today, just over an hour and a half, landing in San Juan Cosalá, south of Guadalajara. Not a long day in the saddle, but today wasn’t about covering distance.

A fellow rider from, Kiko, had reached out and invited me to stop by for a coffee if I was ever in the area. He’s been living and riding here for years and had plenty of insight on riding and living in Mexico, so it was well worth taking the time to meet up, swap stories, and soak up some local knowledge. Always great to hear from someone who has been in a place long enough to really understand it. Plus, he’s just an all-around good soul. I’m appreciative to have met him. Thanks, Kiko.

Ajijic — Expat Central
After a good afternoon of conversation, I made my way over to Ajijic, one of the small towns along Lago de Chapala (Lake Chapala), and found a hotel for the night. By the time I got out to explore, it was already dark, but I still made my way down to the plaza to check out the area. And many surprises—the ornate ironwork all around the plaza, and the “Wall of the Dead” that was different, but so Mexico.

Ajijic has a huge expat community, mostly Canadians and Americans from what I understand. The restaurants seemed to be a near 50/50 mix of locals and expats, which gives the place a different feel than many of the towns I’ve been through. I expected to see a few, but there are a lot of expats here. Definitely a well-established hub for people retiring or relocating to Mexico.

Of course, there was a big church in the plaza, and when I went up to it, the place was absolutely packed—standing room only, and even outside, people were waiting. Then I noticed something interesting: people were moving in one door and out another, emerging with an ash cross on their forehead. That’s when it clicked. Ash Wednesday.

It is incredible to see how deeply spiritual the culture here is. The church was full of locals coming to receive ashes, quietly reflecting as they moved through the ceremony. Even from the outside, you could feel the weight of tradition and belief.

Pilgrims on the Road
Speaking of religious devotion, I also caught sight of some Peregrinos (pilgrims) on the way here. While I was taking a break, five or six people emerged from the scrub brush on the side of the road with backpacks, walking along the highway toward their destination. They stopped briefly to chat with a roadside vendor, then waved and carried on—likely making their way to Talpa de Allende as part of their pilgrimage.

Over-the-Top Good Meal
While wandering around town, I spotted a restaurant flying a Canadian, American, and Mexican flag, which stood out as unique. It had a reader board out front, looked good, so I wandered in.

Inside, I saw a couple of expat ladies eating and asked them how their meal was. They raved about it—the special was pork ribs done roast-style, mashed potatoes, sautéed vegetables—but warned me they thought the kitchen was about to close. They pointed me toward the owner, who was sitting nearby.

Despite speaking very little English, he immediately welcomed me in and made sure I got a meal. And oh man, was it worth it. Huge portions, amazing food, over-the-top good.

The restaurant? El Charro.

So not many miles today, but a ride that led to some great conversations, a deeper look into local culture, and one of the best meals yet.

What did I see the other day? “It’s not about the miles, but the smiles.” Today definitely fit that to a T.

Tomorrow? Haven’t decided yet.

APOTA Day-17 : A Service Stop, a City Ride, and Guadalajara Madness
 

Short mileage day, but packed with experiences. Started off with a ride into Guadalajara, and let me tell you, I could’ve just kept riding all day. The roads into the city were great, the temperature was perfect, but I had business to take care of. First stop, KTM Guadalajara. Another great Kiko suggestion.

A Really Fun Dealership Experience, Really, I’m Not Kidding
Originally, I just planned to grab an oil filter and maybe check for brake pads. Mexico is brutal on brakes, with all the stop signs, topes, and sudden slowdowns. But once I started chatting with Arturo, the service manager, things escalated quickly.

Between his minimal English and my butchered Spanish, we somehow made it work. He was incredibly helpful, and when I asked if they could do a service, he immediately said yes. That led to checking a couple of parameters on the bike, diagnosing a rear brake switch warning, and even pulling up the full service history and recall records.

And then came the coolest part.
When it was time to bring the bike in, Arturo pointed to the front doors of the dealership and said, “Up the ramp.”
Wait, what?
Yep, ride the bike up the showroom ramp, through the front doors, across the dealership floor, and right up to his desk. No back-alley service bay here. Straight through the fancy entrance.

From there, the mechanic came up to check the bike, and the first thing he asked?
Would I like them to wash it?
Lo siento, amigo. Yes, please.

And just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, they lowered the bike into the shop via a glass elevator. That’s right. This dealership has a literal bike elevator taking motorcycles into the service area below.

Service took a little longer than expected. Arturo said two hours, it ended up being three-plus, but they were thorough, professional, and friendly as hell. They were also super excited that I was from Canada.

While waiting, I grabbed a coffee next door, caught up on messages with their great WiFi, and just bummed around the store.

Oh, and they have the tires I need, but I only found that out as I was paying the bill, which was more than acceptable. I told Arturo I’d think on it. Might make sense to bite the bullet and put them on here.

Navigating Guadalajara, Mayhem on Two Wheels
Leaving KTM, I had one mission, get to my hotel.
Sounds easy, right?
It was ten miles away but took an hour. Time of day didn’t help. Five o’clock.

Guadalajara traffic is big city, absolute madness. Bumper to bumper, aggressive, unpredictable. If there’s an open spot, someone’s taking it. Fast.

And just to make it even more interesting, my GPS shut down.
So I winged it, dodging through thick traffic, following whatever vague sense of direction I had left. Somehow, by luck and pure determination, I managed to roll up to my stop for the night.

Real Maestranza Hotel, Solid Call
Big thanks to Pete_Tallahassee on the forum for this suggestion. Fantastic hotel. Great fun staff, modern, secure underground parking, and right in the heart of Centro.

Once I got checked in, I wandered the streets a bit, but the real priority? Food.

Found a barbecue pollo joint and grabbed a half grilled chicken, potato salad, regular salad, and more. Exactly what I needed after the chaos of city traffic. Wandered around a bit more, took in the energy of downtown Guadalajara, then called it a night.

Tomorrow, getting out and seeing what Mexico’s second largest city has to offer.

Notes on a Solo Ride
I have sailed a bit single-handed in the Caribbean, navigating open water alone, making every decision solo. But this, this is a whole different experience.

Riding solo across Mexico forces you to be patient and think things through, which is much like sailing. No backup, no one to double-check a decision or call you out before you do something dumb.

If you screw up alone in the middle of nowhere and have an incident or worse, you get hurt. Sure, you’ll probably get taken to help, or jail. But then what? This isn’t Kansas or Canada, Dorothy. Who’s looking after the bike? Where does it end up? And is it even intact when you get back to it?

Not saying you should obsess over this stuff, but it’s definitely been a great teacher in staying calm, thinking everything through.

And then, of course, still managing to do some really stupid shit anyways.

Video and Pics Guadalajara

APOTA Day-18 : Walking Guadalajara
 

A Brief Skim of the History and Culture

Didn’t even fire up the bike today. Just a full day of exploring Guadalajara on foot. The most I did with the bike was head down to the parkade, check it over, grab my walking shoes, and hit the streets. And let me tell you, one day here is nowhere near enough.

I walked over six miles, saw more cathedrals, museums, murals, street art, plazas, and cultural sites than I could possibly post pictures of. Everywhere you turn, there’s something to see.

The Cathedrals, Each One Unique
First stop was Catedral Basilica de la Asuncion de Maria Santisima, where I joined a walking tour of the area. The sheer scale of these places is mind-blowing. The architecture, the details, the centuries of history built into every wall and column.

Part of that tour included the Governor’s Mansion and State of Jalisco Government Building, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the day. The tour was in English, and it was beyond fantastic. Inside, the ceilings are covered in murals so massive and detailed they don’t even seem real.

The artist, José Clemente Orozco, often called the Michelangelo of Mexico, created these enormous sweeping frescos full of optical illusions and intricate details. The sheer scale of them is incredible. Just standing there, looking up, you feel like you’re inside a masterpiece. I learned more about Mexican history in that tour to intrigue me to no end.

Then I visited at least one or two more cathedrals. While they weren’t as big, each had something unique. One near my hotel was packed with statues. Three-foot-high saints lined the altar and side walls. It was overwhelming in the best way. Every time I think I’ve seen the most impressive church, another one comes along that completely changes the game.

The Uni Art Museum, A Wild Ride Through Mexican Culture
Across from the university, I found the Museo de las Artes de la Universidad de Guadalajara, an art museum that completely surprised me. It was filled with pieces from local artists depicting every aspect of Mexican life, wrestling, burlesque, craftsmanship, taxis, street food.

It wasn’t just your standard paintings-on-the-wall type of place. This was interactive, raw, and full of life. I could have spent the whole day just taking it all in.

Around the back of the museum, I wandered into another plaza with yet another stunning cathedral, this one showcasing wild Neo-Gothic architecture. That’s how it was described. Every turn in this city seems to reveal something even more spectacular than the last.

Ralph’s Quesadillas and the Mystery Drink
After all that walking, I needed a break. Stumbled onto a little restaurant called El Rogers Quesadillas. Absolutely unreal food. Just over-the-top good.

I wanted to order a Topo Chico (mineral water), but they didn’t have it, so I tried an agua fresca, which should translate to fresh water. What I got was a sealed, cloudy bottle with tiny seeds floating in it. No idea what it was, but my logic was simple. If thousands of locals drink it and don’t die, I should be fine.

Took a sip. Lemony, maybe a bit of lime, definitely refreshing. Still not sure what it was, but it was good.

Edit: I have since been informed the drink is a Tejuino. Tejuino is a cold fermented beverage made from corn and popularly consumed in the Mexican states of Jalisco, Colima, Nayarit, and Oaxaca. Tejuino is usually made from corn dough.

Underground Tunnels of Guadalajara
Another stop of the day: Museo de Sitio de El Puente de las Damas, which takes you into a small section of the underground tunnels that run beneath Guadalajara.

The tour was in Spanish, so I missed a lot of the spoken history, but the museum had infographics and displays that helped me piece things together. These tunnels were rumored for years but only discovered when excavation work uncovered them. They were used by Christian fighters to move in secret between cathedrals, hidden beneath the city.

Absolutely fascinating, and you can’t help but wonder how many more lie undiscovered beneath the streets. You can even see the pipes that still run under the streets today.

A City With So Much to See
Even after walking all day, I barely scratched the surface. At one point, I ended up in Colonia Americana. Very modern, full of fast-food chains, restaurants, and endless shopping options. A completely different vibe from the historic centro, but still a great area to explore.

There’s no end to this place. I could easily spend weeks here and still not see it all.

By the time I got back to the hotel, I was exhausted, overwhelmed in the best way, and already thinking about what I’d missed.

Oh, did I mention street art? Lots of street art all over the place. Even some of the graffiti was tasteful and art-like. And just the buildings, and… and…

Tomorrow, More Guadalajara? Or Back on the Road?
Not sure what’s next. Maybe another day in this amazing city, or maybe it’s time to get moving again. I’ll decide in the morning.

Slideshow:

APOTA Day-19 : Guadalajara, Tires and a Miracle
 

Still in Guadalajara. As much as I’d love to keep exploring, I decided to deal with something that had been nagging at me — tires. Something I should have just done before I left, but I didn’t. So, I gave Arturo at KTM Eurobike a call and set up an appointment.

As I mentioned before, I was surprised they had a solid option in stock. My current tires were Z-rated street tires, likely the originals from when the bike was new. So yeah, eight years old. Not completely shot, but not much life left either. I knew I’d have to deal with tires sooner or later, and I wanted something that would last the rest of the trip.

They had Dunlop TrailMax Missions. Checked the reviews, seemed like a good choice. A long-lasting tire that’s OK on pavement and still capable in sand or gravel if needed. The only real downside, brutally stiff sidewalls, kind of like a Heidenau K60, meaning if I ever had to change one on the side of the road, good luck.

I do carry a tire repair kit and compressor, so hopefully, that’s all I’ll ever need.

Blah blah blah about tires. Long story short — I booked it in, and have new tires.

Got down to KTM early and was waiting for them to open, and once again, they were fantastic. Super welcoming, making sure I was comfortable, just a great shop all around. The tire swap took about three hours, but they took their time and did it right.

And while I was waiting, Kiko sent me a message. He was up for a ride. Perfect. Once the bike was ready, I shot him a message.

Riding with Kiko
I left KTM and met him near Jocotepec at the junction by the lake. We wasted no time and hit the road, and it was fantastic. Fun roads, great pace, and damn, Kiko doesn’t mess around — he zips right along.

We rode down to La Manzanilla de la Paz, where Kiko had to drop off a package. Turns out he knows a lot of folks in town, so we took a little walking tour.

He showed me The Miracle of La Manzanilla, an incredible local legend. The story goes like this:
• A saintly woman taught poor children on a large flat rock because they couldn’t afford school.
• After she passed, lightning struck the rock and split it in half.
• Over time, the rock fused back together on its own, and an image of the Virgin Mary appeared on it.
• Experts investigated and officially declared it a miracle.

Much more to the story. I’m not really doing it justice. But hope you get the gist.

There’s a huge cathedral in town, but the actual rock where the event happened has its own separate building, where people come to pray, leave trinkets, clothing, pictures, and handwritten notes asking for blessings. Pretty amazing to see and hear the full story.

Ending the Day in Mazamitla
From La Manzanilla, we carried on riding to Mazamitla, a really cool little mountain town.

After parking the bikes, Kiko, ever the fantastic Mexico tour guide, helped me find a perfect hotel right in the heart of downtown. Affordable — 750 pesos — with underground parking and security cameras. Couldn’t ask for better.

Then Kiko gave me the full tour of town, showing me all the best spots and… snakes. Yes, there were people with snakes. Turns out a local breeder was showing off their snakes, just spreading the word about snakes in the area. Go figure.

The town was very busy, and like a tourist spot, it has shop after shop where you can buy everything from a coffee to a transistor radio to a poncho.

Really great to ride together and spend the day hanging out though. Kiko, you are a great soul.

Wrapping Up the Day
After Kiko took off, I wandered the town, snapped some pictures, and grabbed some unreal Chile Rellenos at the Mercado — Kiko’s recommendation, of course. By the time I got back to the hotel, I was done. Long day, a lot going on, and I just needed to chill.

Tomorrow? We’ll See Where the Road Leads
Yes, need to figure out where next. Thinking about heading back toward the Pacific, winding through the mountains. The route looks really fun.

And honestly, I’d really like to just get in a few solid hours of riding. I do love the riding part too.
I am loving all of this gig so far .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

APOTA Day-20 : Mazamitla to San Juan de Alima
 

Twisties, Sugar Cane, Bananas and the Pacific

Really happy with the day. Got some riding in, all old highways, no toll roads. Just the kind of day I wanted.

The Ride
Rode Highway 110, 54, and finally hit Highway 200 to head down the coast. And let me tell you, twisties. Lots and lots of twisties. Speed up, slow down, dodge a slow-moving truck, get on the brakes for topes. Seriously, so many topes.

The roads weren’t in terrible shape, but it was a workout type ride. Sometimes cruising under the new highway, weaving through little funky towns, getting cut off in those funky little towns, and the ever-present hawkers by the topes in the funky little towns, and running through a lot of sugar cane fields.

At one point, I rolled up on what had been a roadside fire on the mountainside. Looked like a controlled roadside burn, but apparently, someone forgot to tell the telephone pole. It had burned right through at the base and was just dangling from the wires, hovering over the road like a medieval jousting hazard. If you weren’t paying attention, that thing would’ve clocked you right in the head. Bizarre scene. I’ll dig out a picture.

Oh, and the new tires? They got a workout today. More aggressive tread, so yeah, a bit vibier than the street tires, but I liked them. They felt solid, no surprises, and as Cal indicated, they should last the rest of the trip and the next one or two.

Note: Tried using the GoPro today. Not a big fan. It’s a hassle, but I might have snagged some decent footage. At the very least, I’ll grab some still shots. It is a yet-to-be-determined accessory at this point.

A Place to Stop
Was going to stop in Tecomán but rolled in early, and it felt too big, too bustling. I was craving the ocean, so I pushed on toward Highway 200 and spied San Juan de Alima on the map. A tiny town with pretty much nothing in it except for seven hotels, a couple of roadside stands, and a huge, wide-open beach.

Don’t get me wrong. I really liked Guadalajara and the surrounding towns. So much history, so much to see. But they were all crowded, touristy, and full of hustle and bustle. That can be fine sometimes, but the vibe I was looking for, maybe San Juan de Alima.

The Hotel, Beach and Good Food
And correct that was. San Juan de Alima is very small and laid back and almost kind of nonexistent if you didn’t want to stop there. In fact, it might even be a tad too chill. Still not sure why all the hotels and accommodation. Maybe this was a slow weekend.

Checked in by 4 PM, and took a long beach walk. Hardly anyone out there except for what seemed mostly some local families. Just perfect.

Wrapped up the day with a fresh fish dinner at a funky little restaurant which is part of the hotel, then called it an evening.

Great day. Got in exactly what I wanted. Just me, the bike, and the road, all enough to keep it interesting.

Plans
Tomorrow, more of Highway 200.



Slideshow:

APOTA Day-21 : Well I Am Three Weeks In
 

Coastal Road, Heat, and a Lesson in Stopping Early

Three weeks on the road, folks. When I started this ride, I figured I’d be in Zihuatanejo in about ten plus days. Yeah, twice as long to get here. No regrets, and actually I could have taken longer.

The Ride — Endless Twisties on this Coastal Treat
Left San Juan de Alima and took Highway 200 all the way down to Lázaro Cárdenas. Maybe 120 to 130 miles, but solid, non-stop twisties, with the odd straight stretch thrown in. This stretch of road was pure fun. It would open up to an ocean view, then right back into the curves. Over and over, it was spectacular.

It was hot today, 32°C or 90°F. Not unbearable, but enough that you felt it when you stopped. Not a ton of traffic, but the stuff that was out there was… interesting. A few local trucks that looked like they were held together with zip ties and prayers, then random cows just chilling in the road, and some weird creatures that darted across the pavement faster than I could process. No clue what they were. Hopefully, I’ll figure that out later.

Should’ve / Could’ve Stopped but Didn’t
Came through Caleta de Campos just before noon. That would’ve been the perfect place to stop. Small town, quiet, right on the beach. It had the right vibe.

But nope, I figured I’d push on to Lázaro Cárdenas, thinking, “Ah, it’s just another hour, what’s the harm?”

Lázaro Cárdenas — Wrong Call
Kind of a little mistake. I thought Tecomán was too big and busy. Well, Lázaro Cárdenas is a large industrial port city. Big, busy, fast, dirty, and jammed with endless trucks. Should’ve stayed in the smaller town near the beach, where it was laid back. But nope, I kept going.

Once I got here and settled into a hotel room, I went looking for the malecón, figuring there’d at least be a decent waterfront to check out. Found a sign for Puerto Lázaro Cárdenas, stopped for a picture… then a security guard came over and told me I couldn’t be there.

I tried another route. No luck. Then, in my infinite wisdom, I found another way in, only to be greeted by yet another security guard. He explained that the malecón was “cerrado” (closed). I looked around. There were people jogging, walking, and cars parked everywhere. It didn’t seem closed.

I asked when it would be open. He said, “Mañana.” So, I don’t know if it was closed for real or just closed for me, but either way, that was that.

It did look so interesting and a good place to hang.

Observations on the Coast
Even though I didn’t stop much today, I noticed something about the people here. They’re still friendly, still helpful, but not in the same way as in tourist-heavy areas. Here, it’s different. People are busy, going about their lives, not waiting for tourists to roll through. Not unfriendly, just less engaged.

I stopped on the side of the road at one point, and a guy who had already passed me actually turned around and came back just to make sure I was okay. That’s Mexico. People are generally helpful. But at the same time, it’s clear this part of the coast isn’t built around foreign tourism in the same way as a lot of the spots I have been.

Tomorrow — Getting to Zihuat
Tomorrow, I’ll ride the last 60 miles to Zihuatanejo. Shouldn’t take long. Time to finally roll into the beach town that’s been stuck in my head for years. I will see if I can finally track down Andy and Red.

And you know, for a place that was just a fictional movie spot, I think it was filmed in the USVI, I actually get why someone would say, “If I ever escape, I’m going to that beach in Mexico.”

It just has the real hang-out-with-no-cares, in-a-hut-on-the-beach feeling.

APOTA Day-22 : Rolling into Zihuatanejo
 

A Beach Town Gone Tourist Central

OK, OK, my ignorance shone through on the Lázaro call. Fail. After you read this, you will see I think I’m learning to like the small Mexican towns much better. But as a first timer, I gotta see the “names,” though I am thinking maybe that will fall by the wayside also.

The Ride — Less Twisties, More Heat
Didn’t rush out of Lázaro Cárdenas this morning. No need. Wasn’t far to go today. Fueled up, got on the road, and made my way toward Zihua.

The road started out with a few curves, but as the miles went on, it straightened out more and more. No dramatic ocean-hugging cliff roads, no mountain passes. Just a solid, good road (still with potholes, this is Mexico) that kept getting better as I got closer to Zihuatanejo.

And surprisingly uneventful. No snakes, no cows in the road, not even a random mystery critter darting across my path. Not much traffic either, just a smooth ride in warm air. 32°C or 90°F again today. Hot, but not unbearable. Humidity is there also but not unbearable.

One thing I realized—checkpoints have been very few and far between. I honestly can’t even remember the last real one I went through. Maybe somewhere back around Punta de Mita? Yesterday, there was something that kind of looked like a checkpoint—some barricades, a few senior local-looking guys sitting there, but they never got out of their chairs. There was a half-hearted wave-through happening, and I just nodded, kept rolling, and that was that. Definitely not the military or federales. Kind of seemed like the coffee shop crowd decided to police who was going through their town. No guns, no ambition, just sitting in the middle of the road as opposed to on the side. Weird. Very possibly lookouts or hawks. Seemed more busybody-ish than anything.

But what do I know, I stopped in Lázaro. Ha.

First impression?
Busy. Full. Touristy. Definitely not a sleepy little fishing village anymore.

Lots of tourists, also seemed lots of Canadian and American expats. The town is clean, well-kept, full of shops and restaurants. More polished than I expected. There’s definitely a tourist town vibe, but not in a bad way. It still feels like Mexico.

Finding a Place to Stay
That took a bit of work. In Centro, there were plenty of hotels, but parking was a problem. Some of the better spots had nowhere secure to stash the bike—street parking only, and I wasn’t feeling that.

Left Centro, went up over the hill and down into the Playa La Ropa area. More small hotels, a bit quieter, and found a great little spot with everything I needed. Secure parking, decent room, and close enough to town, just don’t get to be in the thick of it.

Exploring the Town
Wandered around for the afternoon, taking it all in. First stop—El Principal, down by the pier. Lots of people fishing, plenty of boats tied up, moored, and coming and going. Just a good spot to hang out and take in the people.

They don’t exactly have a malecón, but there’s a nice street and path with shops and restaurants along the beach. And the beach? Packed with fishing boats—everywhere. This place is a fishing, beach, tourist town on the ocean, no mistaking that. Lots of tour boats, but fishing is big.

Didn’t cover all of downtown. Never even made it to the mercado. Figured I’d save that for tomorrow. Instead, I just took my time, walked the streets, checked out the shops, asked questions, and eventually found a restaurant off the main drag for a late lunch.

And oh man, the tacos. I got pictures of them, because these were yes, that good. Just incredible.

After that, started to get dark. I wandered a little more, spied a really simple church, but yet with a unique feature. Of course, in Mexico. You can see it in the pics. Then I called it a night.

Apota Day-23 : The Beach, A Corrupt Cop’s Mansion, and The Market..!!
 

Great days, Indeed..!!
Not much riding today, unless you consider a ride into town "the ride"—just a full day hanging out in Zihuatanejo. Caught up on some personal stuff in the morning, phone calls, emails, all the usual life things that pile up even when you’re on the road. Then figured I should probably go do what people come to Zihuatanejo to do, and a favorite pastime of mine—hit the beach.!!

La Ropa Beach, The Tourist Side of Zihua
Headed down to Playa La Ropa for a couple of hours. Perfect sunshine, smooth fine sand, warm(ish) water. The beach itself wasn’t overly packed, but the hotels and restaurants lining it had a good crowd. Plenty of the usual beachside activities, catamaran rides, parasailing, paddleboard rentals. Just the full-on beach town scene.
Nice spot, after a while, I’d had enough sun, so time to check out something a little different.

The Parthenon, A Mansion with a Shady Past
Next stop, the The Parthenon of El Negro .. story here
Yes, ome crooked chief of police from Mexico City decided to build his own Parthenon here in Zihuatanejo, way up on a hill overlooking the bay.
The history? Dark. Real dark.
I talked to a Canadian couple who had visited years ago, way before it became a “tourist attraction.” Back then, if you slipped a few pesos to the security guard at the gate, he’d let you in for a private tour—down into underground tunnels they supposedly used for smuggling. They described seeing elaborate paintings on the ceilings, secret passageways.
These days, it’s cleaned up, dressed up, and tourist-ready, the pool is now a stage with seating, but you can still feel the weird energy. The view over the bay? Absolutely stunning. But the backstory makes the place feel a little right out of some drug lord movie.

Mercado Municipal – The Raw Side of Zihua
Finally made my way into Zihuatanejo proper and hit the Mercado Municipal, the main market in town.
Let’s just say, this is Mexico.
I don’t want to say it’s dirty, but it’s raw. Tight, cramped, packed with vendors selling everything under the sun. There’s an overwhelming energy to the place, nothing looked suspect, and yet somehow, everything looked suspect. It’s that kind of market.
See the photos, you’ll get what I mean. Of course the people, vendors, everyone was friendly and ready to sell you whatever you needed.

Winding Down, A Good Meal
Wrapped up the day downtown with a solid meal at "Restaurantes Mexicanos Any" I had chile rellenos stuffed with ground beef, with rice and beans it is a funky little restaurant with hand-painted chairs, well real fun decorating in general. One of those random finds that turn out to be exactly what you needed.

Tomorrow, Who Knows?
No solid plan yet, but it might be time to start making my way toward the next leg of this ride.
Then again maybe more beach and more looking around..

Apota Day-24 : Still in Zihuat
 

Beaches, Back Roads, A Killer Tuna Steak, and a Shake-Down

Didn’t exactly get an early start, not even close. Took my time, figured I’d bum around the area a bit, see what I could find.

Barra de Potosí, A Local Favorite and Endless Beach
This place came highly recommended, both by locals and by Gustavo. And yeah, I get why. Took a back way out from La Ropa, which was a fun little route that you could see the massive beach from. And yes, that road dropped me on the road to the airport. Turns out, Barra de Potosí is actually two beaches combined, stretching 15 miles total, with a 4.5-mile lagoon behind it.

Not a resort scene, just a real Mexican beach, local restaurants, boat tours, kayak rentals, and a huge floodplain where the lagoon meets the ocean. The tide was rushing out when I got there, and at first, it was a bit of a trip seeing people walking way out into the water, looked like they were walking on the ocean itself.

Took a long walk on the beach and through the lagoon, tons of little crabs and ??? scurrying underwater. Just a really cool, laid-back spot. Never did get to do a tour, just didn't work out. I guess the one to do is the boat tour on a full moon, which it is. Oh well.

Stopped at a small beachfront café and had fish and shrimp tacos, which were very good. No idea what the name of the place was, just one of those spots with plastic chairs and long tables in the sand, but it hit the spot.

Ixtapa, Not My Scene
After that, figured I’d go check out Ixtapa, just to see what it was all about. And yeah, it’s a resort town. It’s clean, it’s polished, every sign is in English, and you wouldn’t even know you were in Mexico. Big hotels, an artisan market full of Mexican trinkets, just very North Americanized. Didn’t stay long. Nice place, did the quick tour, but not my kind of place.

The Old Road Back, A Hidden Gem
Instead of taking the main road back, I found (OK, Google suggested) Escénica La Majahua, the old road between Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo. I think it used to be the road before the newer highway was built, that's a big maybe. And man, cool road, winding up and over the hill, cool view of the ocean and a nice beach called Playa Majahua Zihuatanejo. It is a real good road, but with that old-school, forgotten road feel. Definitely worth taking if you’re in the area.

Dinner, The Sidewalk Tuna Steak Experience
Got back to my room, cleaned up, and headed out for dinner. Went to Restaurante El Arrayán, which was recommended by stormdog and yes, he knew what he was talking about. The grill was right on the sidewalk, and the first special the chef mentioned was grilled tuna steak. Didn’t even let him finish the list, I was in.

All the tables were across the street on the sidewalk, so I grabbed a seat and waited. When the food came out, unreal. Perfectly seared tuna steak, cooked to perfection. The chef even came over to check how it was, and when I told him muy bueno, he gave me a solid fist bump. Server was great too. Just a cool little spot with ridiculously good food. I did eat very well today.

The Not-So-Fun Part of Today, A Little "Roadside Tax"
After dinner, took a stroll through the other side of the canal, tons of funky bars and little spots tucked away. Great atmosphere, but eventually, time to head back. Except, I missed a turn.

No big deal, figured I’d loop around and get back on track. But before I could, a Muni type Policia spotted me, pulled up, and jumped out of his car like it was payday. He asked for my license, which I had, but never asked for my bike registration, because as it turns out, he didn’t actually care. What he did care about was making some quick cash.

His English was about as good as my Spanish, so he called his "friend" who spoke English, handed me the phone, and the guy (who didn't sound very official) explained I had apparently gone the wrong way down a one-way street.

Ticket: 1,200 pesos. Or I could just pay the officer 600 pesos and be on my way. Classic. I wasn’t thrilled about it, but there was no getting out of it. Reached in my pocket, found a 500-peso bill, and handed it over. The guy was basically giddy and practically sprinted back to his car. Before he took off, he half-heartedly motioned for me to turn around, like, "Oh yeah, by the way, don’t keep going that way."

So yeah, my time here in Zihuatanejo ended with a little "tourist tax." It leaves you wondering, do you call the bluff and ask to go to the station, or...


Zihua is a wrap folks. Pretty full day. Saw a lot, ate well, got a bit of that real Mexico experience. And now, yeah, I think it’s time to adventure on.

APOTA Day-25 : From Desolate to Hyperactive Towns, Parades, and Some Sketchy Vibes
 

Kind of my normal start. Took my time, made some calls, then finally rolled out of Zihuatanejo around 9:30, taking the back way toward Barra de Potosi before hopping onto Highway 200 and heading south.

My First Zona Arqueologica

Made a stop at Zona Arqueologica Soledad de Maciel, also called Xihuacan. This is an ancient site where people lived for thousands of years, long before the Spanish showed up.

The big draw here? A huge pyramid base, actually quite a sight but far from what it all once was. Apparently one of the longest ball courts in Mesoamerica (160 meters), and some sacrificial stone that makes you wonder what really went down here. The ball court was crazy big, hard to imagine game day. Hard to imagine who walked on that ground before me.

They have a museum on-site, and it's very uptown, with tons of artifacts, pottery, sculptures, skeletons, and relics from the different cultures that lived here over the centuries. Pretty cool spot, and a nice stop to start the day. I can't wait to see more of these.

The Ride
The heat was on early. Looked down at one point and saw 32°C (90°F). Ocean breeze helped when I could catch it, but today was definitely a warm one.

Road conditions? A mixed bag. Some parts were fantastic, smooth pavement, winding curves. Others? Pothole central. And then there were the sections that were just ripped-up construction nightmares. The kind that makes you wonder if you missed a detour sign.

A Failed Detour, Nowhere Worth Going
I originally planned to head to El Carrizal and that group of beach towns, a little peninsula area that looked promising. Rode down a bit of it… and nope. The road was atrocious, not gravel or sand, just broken, battered, brutal pavement. The area? Dead. Beach hotels that once had life were now abandoned relics.

Didn’t take long to realize this was a bad call, so I carried on through those towns to backup plan Coyuca de Benitez.

Coyuca de Benitez, Colorful, Chaotic, and Crowded
Rolling into Coyuca, the first thing that hits you is color. All the houses stacked on the hillside are painted bright, wild colors, making the whole place look alive. Crossed a big bridge over the river, restaurants lining the banks, a bit of a water park scene on the far side.

And then, traffic mayhem.
Wow. This town is insane to drive in. Absolute gridlock. A single main road running through town, cars packed in, scooters weaving between, people walking everywhere. Video game levels of crazy.

Found a funky little hotel, Hotel Ray, tucked into a side street. When I say basic, I mean basic. A room, a bed, a fan, a bathroom with a missing toilet seat. No AC, so tonight might be interesting.
On the upside, there’s secure parking in the courtyard, so at least the bike's safe.

Exploring the Town, River Walk and a Surprise Parade

After checking in, I went for a wander.
The river here is massive, wide and shallow, maybe one to three feet deep in most places. Along the riverbanks, there are stairways leading down, and across the water are these wild makeshift bridges, just wooden planks set on posts driven into the riverbed. They lead over to a cluster of restaurants and some kind of water park setup. It had slides, water dumps, and tables you could sit at in the water. Pretty neat setup.

Then walked through the central area, markets, plazas, and a church that’s old and simple but still cool. The whole town just feels alive, people everywhere, music, movement.

Then, just before sunset, a parade. Looking down the main road, I suddenly see horses, lots of them. Cowboys riding through town, trailers carrying massive bulls, bands in pickup trucks playing loud music, even a guy dressed as a cow walking down the street.

No idea what the celebration was for. It’s Mexico, do they need a real reason? But the whole town was out watching.

Weird Vibes, Military, National Guard, and a Gut Feeling
Coyuca is busy, lively, and full of energy, but something about it feels a little off.
I looked up the town’s history and, yeah, there was a mass shooting here in 2023. Thirteen dead in town, ten more on the same day in the area, and two injured.

So maybe it’s just the past hanging in the air, or maybe it’s the massive police and military presence.

The National Guard, marines, police are everywhere. Pulling over cars and scooters, making people open trunks, empty their pockets. It’s not like there’s tension in the air, but there’s just something.

Could be its proximity to Acapulco, could be the town’s history, could be my imagination, or could be nothing at all, but it’s enough to make one think about where they are wandering around.

Overindulged?
Since I apparently overdid it yesterday with my diet, today I toned it down a bunch and just snacked my way through the day. No meals of note.
I think yesterday was my refeed day. My story and I’m sticking to it.

Tomorrow, Getting Past Acapulco
Plan is to be up and out of here, getting through Acapulco in the morning before traffic builds up.
Why? No real reason, just that gut feeling that I should be on the other side of Acapulco by mid-day. Not sure why I think 30 miles south of Acapulco is somehow better, but sometimes you just trust the instinct and roll with it.

Apota Day-26 : Cayuca de Benítez to Marquelia via Downtown Acapulco
 

Not much to report today, just a solid motorcycle ride from Coyuca de Benítez to Marquelia, about 120 miles.

Rolling Through Acapulco
I could’ve bypassed it, but I wanted to see the city, so I rode straight through downtown. It’s massive, big resorts, fancy beachfront spots mixed in with some seriously rough-looking areas. But that’s every big city, so it didn’t seem as bad as I had pictured it. The beaches looked very busy, mostly with Mexican tourists.
Traffic? Thick. The downtown core was packed, but a pretty cool part was going through Acapulco’s famous tunnel, more accurately, the Maxitúnel Acapulco, which is about 2.1 miles (3.4 km) long. Wild.

The Ride
It was the usual, potholes, slow-moving traffic, topes every five minutes. The heat cranked up fast, hitting 35°C (95°F) by the time I reached Marquelia. I think that drained me more than I realized. So a bit hot and sweaty me called it a day by early afternoon.

Landing in Marquelia
Did not take long and found a decent hotel, Hotel Venus on the main road (Highway 200). 600 pesos, secure parking, AC, and actually a nice place. After last night’s sweaty, noisy, no-AC sleep, I was ready for a real night’s rest.

Back to Real Mexico
This is not a tourist town. No one’s hustling souvenirs or trying to sell me a tour. Just regular folks going about their day. People notice me, but it’s a simple “hola” or “buenas tardes” and that’s it.
Not much to see here, no grand old churches (that I saw), there’s a newer one that looks sort of started, like the project got abandoned midway.
And a very interesting thing? The bridge coming into town. Looking down, I saw clotheslines strung between sticks in the river, clothes flapping in the breeze, and ladies sitting in the river doing laundry. Looked like a lot of clothes also, so either they have really big families or it’s a commercial operation.

Another thing I’ve noticed, buses / taxis.
They change in every region. Up north, it’s regular cars. Around Mazatlán, those little three-wheeled tuk-tuk things show up. Here, they’ve got pickup trucks with big metal canopy frames in the back, benches inside. Basically, a human horse trailer, yep that’s the transit system, and they’re everywhere. They have car taxis also, and I only saw a couple of the tuk-tuk things. And there are numerous bus stations for folks traveling longer distances.

Food… nothing to note
Grabbed some street tacos, just four this time, nothing crazy. Didn’t feel like overdoing it again. Wandered town a bit, but there’s not much happening here. Even the plaza was sort of dead. I mean the town was full of folks and lots of shops plying their goods. But it really feels like "just another day," which it is.

Looking forward to actually sleeping tonight. Last night in that fan-only room was brutal, hot, loud, just not a great night’s rest.

Tomorrow—South Again
No set plan yet. Thinking I’ll aim toward Puerto Escondido, but we’ll see how the day goes. One thing’s for sure, it’s gonna be hot again.

APOTA Day-27 : Marquelia to Puerto Escondido
 

Some Good Road, Some Bad Roads, and a Camel?

And it was a good day. A really good day. Maybe it was the full night’s sleep with AC, or maybe it was just one of those days where everything seemed to work out. Either way, I was up early, packed up, fueled up, and on the road before the heat got too ridiculous.

Smooth Sailing… at First
Leaving Marquelia, Highway 200 was fantastic, some straights, gentle curves, smooth pavement. One of those stretches where you can just ride and let the bike do its thing. No dodging trucks (Sunday AM), still lots of topes, no random road hazards, just a proper, enjoyable ride.

Stopped in Cuajinicuilapa for a quick morning coffee. Small town, busy streets, Sunday morning church crowd mixing in with the locals out selling their goods. Sat on the curb in the shade by the bike, and this was one of those moments where I really wished I could speak Spanish, not a few words and charades. Everyone had something to say, and while we mostly just smiled and scraped by with broken conversation, the vibe was fantastic.

The area the town is in is supposed to be a more poorer part of Mexico, but the people seemed happy, chatty, and genuinely friendly. Funny how that works.

Welcome to Oaxaca
Not long after, I hit the Welcome to Oaxaca sign, and that’s when things changed. Drastically. The nice road? Gone. Instead, I was introduced to pothole roulette. It started with rough pavement, then chunks of missing road, then sections of dirt for a few hundred feet, then full-blown craters swallowing half the lane. And no warning signs, no cones, just a test of how well you pay attention.

Some sections had sheer drop-offs where part of the road had just disappeared, with a hope you see it in time. At one point, I hit a curve where the shade from the trees played tricks on the road surface, shadow, light, shadow, light. Couldn’t see a damn thing in the pavement, just had to try really hard to ensure there wasn't a rim bending pothole laying in wait for me. The road did get better, and I think fairly quickly.

Oh, on one hydration break, I saw a camel in a field with a horse. Is there a lot of camels in Mexico?

Puerto Escondido – A Rockin Beach Town
Rolled into Puerto Escondido, and as usual, the hotel I had pre-picked wasn’t great. Was up on a hill, far from everything, overpriced, and the beach access turned out to be a rocky climb. Not what I had in mind.

So I scrapped that plan and rode back toward the entrance to Bahía Principal (Main Beach). And that’s when I saw it, a hotel entrance right on the beach. Pulled up, assumed it would either be booked solid or way too expensive, but went in anyway. And boom, room available, AC, and beachfront. Hotel Las Palmas @ $1100 pesos. Perfect. Except for one catch: at 5 PM sharp, the whole street turns into a pedestrian market. No vehicles in, no vehicles out. I can walk out, but the bike stays put until morning. I'm good, will be on foot anyways. Though it may be a bit loud tonight.

Playa Principal – The Local Hangout
Before the market madness, I took a long walk along the beach. This is not some empty postcard beach, this is where real life happens. The shoreline is packed with fishing boats, many still sitting in the sand.

And people, families filled the water, kids playing, groups gathered under umbrellas. Sunday meant everyone was out. Mostly Mexican families, no all-inclusive resort scene, just locals enjoying the water, hanging out in the sun, and filling up the beachside restaurants. In all fairness, there was a good sprinkling of gringos also. I kept walking and eventually got past the busiest stretch, finding a quieter section. Just the ocean, the sand, and space to take it all in.

A Proper Meal at Restaurant Armando’s
After a splash, I hit the street. Sure enough, right on time, the vendors started rolling in, setting up stalls, and turning the street into a full-blown night market. People everywhere, stalls selling everything you can imagine, music, street food, and this buzzing, chaotic energy. Unreal scene. Wandered a bit, then decided it was time for real food.

And I found Restaurant Armando’s, and wow, solid choice. Looked over the menu, ordered a fish steak, and the waiter was one of those guys who just made the experience better, explaining everything, well best he could, having fun with it.

Before my meal even came, he dropped off what he called a tuna salad, but really it was this plate of sliced fresh tuna covered in spices. Absolutely unreal. Then the main course, a massive fish steak, rice, and veggies. No idea what kind of fish it was (tried to find out, didn’t quite get a clear answer), but it was fantastic. Maybe a fish expert in the crowd knows. And I saw someone else order shrimp tacos, and they looked just as insane. Definitely a place worth coming back to.

Checked Out the Area
After dinner, I checked out more of the market, then climbed the endless stairs leading up from the beach to the main road. Found a church at the top, nothing like the big cathedrals from further north, just a simple, modern-style worship space with normal bricks and mortar. I'm not sure, but seems like that’s been the trend as I move further south, less of the ornate stone cathedrals, more practical, stucco-painted churches. Even the insides are toned down and hardly as elaborate. Still cool to see the differences from area to area. And it's not like I scour every street or investigate it, maybe there is an ornate church here and I'm just not stumbling on them.

Good Day Indeed
Yeah, today was a solid day. Great ride, the roads are just all part of the adventure, great beach, great food. Puerto Escondido is busy, but it’s got a good vibe. Tomorrow? No clue yet. Maybe stay another day, maybe push on.

Either way, this was a good stop and it is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

APOTA Day-28 : Puerto Escondido
 

A Day Off the Bike, but Not Off the Adventure

Covered a lot of ground but didn’t ride anywhere. Spent the day in Puerto Escondido. And a fantastic day it was.
Got up not overly early, but got mobile reasonably quick. I think I had already decided last night that I was staying another day—just felt right. Woke up, had a coffee, got some personal life maintenance done, checked over the bike (everything intact), lubed the chain—motorcycle stuff.
Then it was time to explore.

A Bustling Mexican Town
Puerto Escondido is busy. Little town? Okay, maybe not little, but definitely a happening place. Traffic everywhere, people all over, shops upon shops—it’s got an energy to it.
Made my way to the Mercado Municipal, the public market. And this place is huge. Absolutely massive. We’ve talked about cramped markets before, but this one has big, spacious aisles, clearly defined sections—meat in one area (if you need a whole cow’s head, they’ve got you covered), seafood in another, chicken in its own section. The same goes for baked goods, clothing, electronics—everything has its place. Very defined among the hustle and seeming chaos.
A lot of the market is dedicated to food—there’s an actual food court, plus endless little eateries. And across the street? Even more street vendors selling seafood and chicken, just like in the market. The streets surrounding it are lined with shops, especially along Oaxaca Street. It’s just commerce, everywhere.
As Kiko mentioned, today was Benito Juárez Day, an official holiday, but most shops were still open. At the bigger intersections, Marines and police were directing traffic—whistles, hand signals, the whole bit. Otherwise, it would be chaos trying to cross the road. Definitely a lively place.

The Devil’s Church – ???
While wandering around town, I ended up at one of the weirdest churches I’ve ever seen—the Catedral de Puerto Escondido, also known as the “Devil’s Church.”
I googled it and it’s part of the Roman Catholic Diocese and built in 2003, but this place doesn’t look like any other cathedral I’ve come across. The design is wild—a mix of Gothic, modern, and something that almost feels unfinished or abandoned in parts. Some say it’s eerie, some say it’s fascinating.
The nickname “Devil’s Church” comes from local rumors and legends, though nothing official. Just one of those places that makes you go hmmm…
I took plenty of pics. Just really different from the typical churches and cathedrals in Mexico I have seen so far.

Lots of Tourists (I Believe) - Smattering of Gringos
I expected more tourists (other than Mexican), but while I saw a fair number, Puerto Escondido doesn’t feel overrun. Wandering all day, I maybe saw a few dozen gringos, tops. Nothing like Zihuatanejo or Puerto Vallarta. But the word is out—people are hyping this place up as a year-round worldwide destination. Whether it’s actually the next “it” spot or just marketing hype, I’m not sure. But it’s definitely getting its share of the marketing budget.

Beach Walks & A Surprise Ocean Trail
Took another walk along Playa Principal, and today was much quieter than yesterday. Still busy, but nothing like the wall-to-wall crowd on Sunday. Just a steady flow of families, friends, and beachgoers enjoying the sun.
Then I found something unexpected.
At the far end of the beach, there’s this rocky jetty with a big marlin statue, and I spotted a set of stairs leading up into the rocks. Followed them and discovered what was once a grand coastal walkway, winding along the ocean—man-made, cemented with concrete and stone, and carved into the cliffs.
At one time, this was a real scenic path, complete with lights and well-maintained walkways. Now? Pretty rough shape—parts crumbling, handrails missing, and a few sketchy drop-offs straight into the water. But still, absolutely unreal. Winding stairs, little bridges, and breathtaking views the whole way.
Of course, I was in flip-flops, which made it even more of an adventure. Distance-wise, it’s probably only a quarter to half a mile, but with all the twists and turns, it felt longer. Definitely deserves its own mini post with pictures—it was that cool.

Men at Work - Fishermen to be Exact
After the cliff walk, I did another beach stroll and got caught up watching the fishing crews in action.
These guys are working—boats getting prepped, engine work and oil changes happening right there on the sand. No marinas, no hoists—just men flipping boats on their sides, scraping barnacles off, and slapping on fresh paint.
And the fueling process? They swim the fuel out. Big 10- to 20-gallon square tubs of fuel, carried out to the boats by hand. Some guys take them in small dinghies, but I saw one guy straight-up swimming with a half-full container. That’s next-level dedication.
And then there’s the launching—old-school rollers like something straight out of an Egyptian pyramid-building documentary. Logs laid down, boats rolled over them, pure grunt work. No boat ramps here—just teamwork and muscle.

Dinner – Back for Those Shrimp Tacos
After all that? Back to Restaurant Armando’s.
Yeah, I know. Two nights in a row. But those spicy tuna bruschetta things? Unreal. And I had my eye on those shrimp tacos from last night.
And let me tell you—if you don’t fall in love with these tacos just from the pictures, there’s something seriously wrong. Messy as hell, stuff dripping everywhere, but one of the best meals of the trip.
After dinner, took a final wander through the night market, then called it a day.

Hotel Observations – There Are Options
For anyone coming here, there are a ton of hotels—beachfront like mine, but also plenty off the beach, likely cheaper.
If you don’t need to be close to the water or ocean views, check out places further up the hill—saw some decent ones along Oaxaca Street, like Hotel Garasol and Hotel San Sebastián, both had parking spots. Probably in the 400-600 peso range. I believe worth looking into.

Tomorrow – The Road Calls
Tomorrow, I’m back on the move. No clue exactly where, Oaxaca City or maybe continuing down the coast. Might add a couple of days, but who’s counting? Not me.!!
I know my planning needs some work.!!

APOTA Day-29: Puerto Escondido to Oaxaca
 

and I wasn't sure if I would go to Oaxaca, what was I thinking.!!!

Rode up to Oaxaca from Puerto Escondido on the big road today—kinda superhighway. Not sure if it was the best call, but it’s what I took, and it got me here fast. There were some construction delays, about 30 minutes or so lost to waiting, then getting rerouted onto these sketchy handmade detours that ran through the mountains where they were building.

It’s almost like they’re doing a mix of building new lanes and repairing old stuff. Either way, it was fine. Paid the toll, cruised into Oaxaca, and still made it in well before noon.

First impressions? Oaxaca is different. Not in a bad way, just… something about it just different. In Guadalajara, traffic had a certain chaotic rhythm, but here? It felt more aggressive, packed, see a spot go for it, bully your way in, and then you find that you need to be a bit like that yourself. Oh, and honest-to-god horn-happy. Not at me, I swear, (ok maybe once..haha) but no one here is afraid to lay on the horn. Just a different energy.

Casa Cantera – The Hotel Score
Thought I had picked a good hotel, and for once, I actually did. Casa Centro—right downtown, modern as hell, only two years old, feels like a sleek chain hotel in the big city. 1,500 pesos a night (a bit up there for my budget), but secure parking, good location, and just a solid choice all around.

The City Itself – Wow..!!
After checking in, I cleaned up and went out to explore. Oaxaca feels different. Maybe a little more traditional, maybe it’s the international mix of tourists, maybe it’s the architecture. Either way, it’s got a crazy vibe—every street looks like a postcard, every corner has a photo op.

Street vendors, panhandlers, polished coffee shops, high-end retail, people napping on the curb, little old ladies braiding string using there toes for an anchor—all mashed together into one buzzing, colorful, loud, and lively city. Music everywhere—whether it’s street musicians, hawkers playing something I can’t name, or just random tunes coming from somewhere.

And then, out of nowhere—BOOM. Massive stone walls, towering up along the street. And before I even knew what I was looking at, Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán was right in front of me.

Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán – This Place Is Massive
This church is ginormous. Just standing there, staring at it, you already know this isn’t a quick photo-and-go stop. Like the churches I have been getting used to.

The cathedral itself was closed at the time, but the attached museum was open. And that’s where I made my first mistake of the day. I thought this was gonna be a quick walk-through. Nope.

The museum covers everything about Oaxacan culture—artifacts from Monte Albán, Zapotec and Mixtec treasures, Spanish colonial history, church artifacts, everything.

It was just truly nonstop amazing. I could easily fill this entire ride report with just photos from this one museum. And the entry fee? 100 pesos. Absolutely insane for what’s inside.

And that was just one cathedral.

Benito Juárez Market – Bigger, Busier, and Packed Tight
From there, I hit the Mercado Benito Juárez—Oaxaca’s big public market. Same, same… but bigger.

Packed tighter than Puerto Escondido’s market, but with more of everything. And again, different vibe. Different mix of people. Lots of international tourists here, don't get me wrong it is a Mexican market. The usual organized chaos—meats in one area, seafood in another, everything grouped together, but just on a bigger scale.

It might not have been as cool as Mazatlán’s market, but it’s a close second. Definitely worth getting lost in for a while.

Zócalo de Oaxaca – More Churches, More Overload
Next stop—the Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución). And another mind-blowing cathedral. This city just doesn’t stop with the insane churches. This one had no museum, but the architecture alone was unreal.

Again—too many pictures. WAY too many pictures. Then I hit the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, and same story—just unreal.

At this point, I was starting to question my ability to take in any more of this. Museum was closed (maybe a good thing, because I was already drowning in history and pictures), but the basilica itself? Absolutely breathtaking.

A Proper Café Moment in the Zócalo
Finally, a little worn, I walked back through the Plaza de la Constitución and stumbled across a café straight out of a French movie but in Mexico.

Cloth tablecloths, full-on polished waiters, the kind of place where Bob the Biker guy doesn’t usually end up.

The guy tried selling me on Happy Hour cocktails (no thanks), then pointed me to the 180-peso special—vegetable soup, pork in chile sauce, veggies, and dessert.

Sold. Service was top-notch, food was fantastic, and they even loaned me a phone charger while I ate. I am liking this Oaxaca place.

Final Surprise – Santo Domingo at Night
As I was heading back, I passed by Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán again. And this time? The cathedral was open.

I stepped inside and—just wow. I thought I was impressed earlier, but the interior of this place is something else entirely.

The gold leaf detail, the altars, the massive ceilings—this place was built to amazing detail and it overwhelms.

Done , done..
Finally, back to the hotel, exhausted. The gates were locked up for the night, but the front desk guy let me in and explained that they’ve got tea and coffee available all night, plus a breakfast setup in the morning.

Not sure what’s on the agenda for tomorrow yet, but I know I’ve barely scratched the surface of Oaxaca. I already know I’ll need more time.

APOTA Day-30 : Oaxaca
 

Ruins, Magic, and Too Many Pictures (Again)
Got up, did a couple of calls—keeping life in order—then geared up and took the bike out to Monte Albán to see the ancient Zapotec ruins.

Monte Albán – A Civilization in the Sky
The ride up was a blast. Twisty road, good pavement, and a fun little climb. Parking was easy, entry was 100 pesos, and they’ve got everything—restaurant, museum, bathrooms. But none of that prepares you for the sheer size of this place.
Monte Albán is massive. I’m talking huge. The main plaza stretches forever, surrounded by pyramids, terraces, and ball courts. And it sits on a mountaintop, so the views are ridiculous.
Hard to wrap your head around how much work went into building all this. The stonework, the scale—it’s insane. There are signs everywhere in multiple languages, including English, so you actually know what you’re looking at.
And yes, big international crowd here—school groups, bus tours, people from all over the world. But the site is so spread out that it never felt packed. Spent hours just wandering, taking it all in. And yes, took way too many pictures.

Atzompa – The Forgotten Ruins
After Monte Albán, I set out to find Atzompa—a smaller, less-visited site. And let’s just say navigation was not my strong suit today. Got lost twice, ended up on random dirt roads, weaved through small villages, and had a few “am you even supposed to be here looks?” moments before finally finding it.
Atzompa is much less polished and worked on than Monte Albán. It’s not as well-preserved, but the ruins are still incredible. The place was empty. Literally. One lone guard at the entrance, he had to open the gates for me. So not a single other visitor. Felt like I had my own private archaeological site.
From what I gathered, Atzompa was originally settled before Monte Albán took over as the main center. Spent maybe an hour and a half wandering around before heading back down. I haven't seen many sites like these, but these were pretty impressive..!!

The Chaos of Oaxaca Traffic
Riding back into town was another round of Oaxaca Road Race 2000. If there’s a gap, someone’s taking it—buses included. And if you want a spot, you better be aggressive. The city moves fast, and the horn game is strong, yep they were blowing at me. But somehow, it all works.

Oaxaca’s Magic Factor
Back at the hotel, I found myself sharing a thought with the woman at the front desk—an effortlessly charming presence who spoke exceptional English. I told her that this city felt different, though I couldn’t quite put my finger on why. She listened with a knowing smile, one that made her even more captivating, and then, in the most genuine and heartfelt way, she simply said, “Oaxaca is magical.”
She wasn’t referring to the official Pueblo Mágico designation, but something deeper—an energy, a character, a soul. And standing there, caught in the warmth of her smile and the truth in her words, I couldn’t have agreed more. You don’t just see Oaxaca’s magic—you feel it.

Food – Mole Done Right
Had lunch at the restaurant at Monte Albán—Chicken Mole Negro with rice. No complaints. That meant dinner was just street tacos—quick, simple, no pictures this time.

Evening Walk – Dance, Street Art, and More Churches
Wandered the streets in the evening, snapping pictures of street art, checking out random shops, and taking in the energy of the place. I did look over and saw some shops with really cool arches , the next block over so I went to check it out, when I really got a look at it I realized it was an aquaduct.!! This place never stops with the surprises . Then came across what looked like a dance class practicing traditional Mexican moves, and later, a full-on dance event in the main square. A dozen or more couples, DJ music, an announcer keeping it all flowing.
And the streets? Packed. One of the churches I passed yesterday had its doors open, so I snapped some pics of the inside. Every single corner of this city feels like a photo waiting to happen.

Wrapping Up – Road Time Tomorrow
Tomorrow, I believe back on the move. Oaxaca has been incredible, but the adventure calls.

And since I took way too many pictures again, I put together another YouTube video for those who want to see them all. One with the day(short) and one for Monte Albán(long).

APOTA Day-31 : Oaxaca to Salina Cruz
 

Epic Road, Wild Winds, and a Whole Lotta Darkness
Yes one month on the road and as I’m writing this, I’m sitting in the absolute dark. My room, the complex, the courtyard—everything’s out. From what I can tell, much of this part of town is dark. Massive power outage. Plunking away here in the dark, but I’ll circle back to the hotel situation later.

Leaving Oaxaca – One Last Cool Morning
Got up early, packed the bike while it was still cool, then headed out of Oaxaca. Quick stop for fuel and a bit of chain-lube and bike check, then I was on the road to Salina Cruz. I briefly thought about taking the 190D toll road—faster, smoother, fewer topes—but something told me to stick with the old road. What’s an extra hour or two when you’re out here to ride and see the country?

Highway 190 – One of the Best Roads Yet
I’ve been on some epic roads—Cassiar Highway in Canada, Route 666 in Arizona, Tail of the Dragon, etc. They all have their own cool factor, but this stretch of Highway 190 from Oaxaca to Tehuantepec? It’s right up there. And let’s be honest, the others don’t have mezcal production around every corner.
This road had everything: desert landscapes, mountain climbs, cliffside views, agave fields, cactus jungles, pine forests—and more agave fields. Tight twisties, big looping curves, endless hairpins—some so long you start wondering if you’ve just done a full circle.
Towns were few and far between, which only added to the fun. There was some big truck traffic, but it wasn’t hard to work around. Traffic overall was light—surprisingly so for a road this epic. It’s about 240 km (150 miles) of pure moto-joy.
Yes, there were some potholes—but just enough to keep you honest. The whole thing felt like a perfectly tuned workout on two wheels. Demanding enough to keep you locked in, but not punishing. If you wanted to take in the scenery, you had to roll off the throttle and just coast for a bit. Not many pull-offs or formal viewpoints, but the road was quiet enough that if you wanted to stop, you could easily find a clear stretch and edge over. I didn’t. I was just enjoying the ride too much.

And for the record in case anyone’s wondering—I’m not a knee-dragging, peg-scraping twisty thrasher. I’m more of a “brisk cruise with a grin under the helmet” kind of rider. The important part? I’m not trying to be anything I’m not. I’m having fun. And that’s more than enough.

The Winds of Tehuantepec – No Joke
As I dropped into the Tehuantepec region, the temperature started climbing—hit 37 or 38°C at one point. Still bearable, but hot. I thought about stopping in Tehuantepec but figured I’d push on to Salina Cruz—just 10 miles further, with more hotel options.
Now, about those famous Tehuantepec winds.
I’d read about them before—in the book 438 Days by Jonathan Franklin. It’s the story of Salvador Alvarenga, a fisherman who drifted across the Pacific for yes, 438 days after being caught in these exact winds. It is a good read and insight into his mindset. Oh. and the winds, yeah, they’re real. As I got close to Salina Cruz, the wind was hitting hard—like 40 to 50 mph gusts. Coming around a curve, the wind would stand you straight up. At stoplights, it felt like the bike could blow over.

Landing in Salina Cruz – Big Town Vibes
Salina Cruz is bigger than I expected. Full-size city. Walmart, Office Depot, major shopping centers, fast food chains, you name it. Drove through the entire town before finding my hotel—Mission San José, much closer to the water.
Nice spot. Big courtyard, decent pool, parking across the street (not 100% convinced about security, but looks okay). Room is over the top—very modern. Price was 1,200 pesos, which is higher than the strike zone, but I was beat. The room’s worth it.

Exploring Salina Cruz – Wind, Sand, and Not Much Else
Went for a walk after settling in. There’s not a ton to explore. Part of town feels pretty modern, when you roll in and see the shopping areas. Down by the water, it’s a transport hub —this is a naval port, rail stop and I think big military naval presence.
I made it over to the Malecón. It’s not a blow-your-mind waterfront, but it’s nice. The beach itself is beautiful—long stretch of sand, crashing waves—but with the wind, sand was flying everywhere. Still, got some great photos and a good walk in.
The town overall feels a bit “workaday.” Didn’t see a true plaza or central square—maybe I missed it. Just felt more industrial and modern than the typical Mexican town vibe.
Why am I here, well it's the way I have chosen to start going east so coming down to here from Oaxaca was a necessity.

Food was a simple quesadilla not worth mentioning or a pic ..

Wrapping Up – Power Out, Power On
Good news—power eventually came back on. AC, lights, all working again.


Tomorrow, I’ll head east. See how far along i get might be a long ride and then wind and heat .. maybe not so long, I’ll check the map and see. Either way, Salina Cruz is in the books, and that road getting here? Definitely the highlight of the day.

APOTA Day-32: Salina Cruz to San Pedro Tapanatepec
 

wTf , Wind, and a Turnaround Day

You know how not every day goes right? Like, sure, it’s fun to believe this whole trip is one big smiling adventure—but the reality is, some days just aren’t. And today? Well… at least the start of it felt like one of those days.

Slow Start, Frustrating Morning
Woke up feeling off. Debated whether I should even ride or just take the day to catch up on stuff. But I didn’t like Salina Cruz enough to stick around. So I forced myself to get moving—later than I should’ve.
Had to grab the bike from remote parking, reload all the gear, and by the time I was finally mobile, it was already warming up fast. Then I remembered I needed a few things and swung by Walmart—figured it might be my last chance for a while. Ended up spotting a bank and figured I might as well top up on pesos. You can see where this is going… I didn’t roll out of town until after 11.

And everything just felt like it took two tries. Wind blowing my gloves away while trying to gear up, sweating in my jacket while fumbling with my helmet, second-guessing every stop. Nothing terrible. Just… clunky, really clunky.!!

The Wind Tunnel From Hell
Finally hit the road. Rode through Tehuantepec, then made the right turn toward Tuxtla Gutiérrez. This is the same region with those infamous Tehuantepec winds—remember I mentioned them, and I even checked Windy before leaving. It didn’t look too bad on the app. But wow, either I read the app wrong or not sure but...wTf.!!
I’m not exaggerating—this was some of the worst wind stretches I’ve ever ridden in. Direct crosswinds that had me leaning hard just to stay in my lane or keep the bike tracking. Gusts that would hit and try to stand the bike up or push me sideways. I was dancing with the wind the whole time. Frustration level .. high.
Didn’t see a single other bike on the road—not a little scooter, not a bike. Nothing. And no semi-trucks pulling vans either. Just tankers and flatbeds. That says it all.
It wasn’t just the strength—it was the inconsistency. Gusty, swirly, unpredictable. It would slam from the left, then whip around and shove from the right, depending on where the road came off a small hill or around it or out of a lttle valley. Just brutal. And once you’re in it, really you’ve got no choice but to ride it out.

Calling It Early – San Pedro Tapanatepec
finally got out of the wind for the most part I’d barely done 70-80 miles when I saw San Pedro Tapanatepec on the map. Just a little ways up ahead. It was only around 2 PM, but I didn’t care. I was mentally done. I needed a reset, and tomorrow’s road looks more promising anyway.
Pulled into town and found a hotel that looked ok, main dragish, the Hotel Rebina. And wow, what a surprise. Locked courtyard, modern clean rooms, AC, and all for 750 pesos. I got checked in, unpacked, and immediately felt better.

A Small Town With Some Character
Didn’t expect much from this town—it’s small, maybe 10,000–12,000 people—but it is Mexico and I was wrong. Wandered out and found a whole bunch of cool things: a vibrant little central park, a colorful staircase leading up a lookout hill, a lovely old church beside the plaza, and tucked-away buildings crumbling, but crumbling with character.
This town was founded in 1669, and it shows—in a good way. But there has to be buildings on building on who knows what. There’s even what looks like a small bullfighting ring right in town (yep, confirmed). It’s just beside some house like it’s no big deal. That’s Mexico for you.

And A Good Meal
Stopped in at a small, nameless restaurant just down from where I’d parked. We struggled through some Spanish-English but landed on a special: Mexican meatballs, salad with fiery jalapeños, beans, and tortillas. All that for 90 pesos. And it was absolutely fantastic.
Sat back at the hotel after, did a bit of maintenance and reorganizing, and started feeling human again. Tomorrow, I’ll be back on the road and heading east. Don’t know how far I’ll get—but that’s all part of the adventure.

Today started out rough. One of those “what the hell am I doing?” mornings. But it turned around. Because, after all… can you really have a bad day in Mexico?

Some Moments Just Change Your Outlook
 

I wasn’t sure if I was going to share this, but it’s stuck with me in a way that feels worth writing down.

This morning, I stopped in a little town called Cintalapa to grab my first coffee of the day. I was sitting outside on a curb with my helmet off, taking it all in, not really in a rush. You know how some days on the road just feel… off? Not bad, exactly, but clunky. The day before had been one of those, and I guess I was still shaking off the fog. A bit of traveler fatigue, maybe. Wondering if I was still chasing something or just going through the motions. Maybe even lamenting how I can’t speak the language of the country I’m in, How I likely packed too much and should get rid of stuff, how maybe there is better gear than the stuff I’m wearing..??? Life altering problems.

And then this little girl walked up to me.
She couldn’t have been more than six, maybe seven. Kinda devil may care attitude, wild little grin, full of energy. She said something I didn’t quite catch—maybe asking for money, maybe just talking. I smiled and pointed to my coffee and told her, “No Español.” She looked at me kind of sideways, tilted her head and put her hands to her mouth..
She had no hands.
Just two small arms ending in nubs soft, round nubs where fingers should be, there were little wart looking things. I assume she wasn’t born with hands. She didn’t seem embarrassed, just smiled And wandered off.

That hit me harder than I expected. I watched her walk away and catch up with her mom and older sister, and they disappeared into a store. A few minutes later they came out and hung around a little bit. And I just sat there with my coffee, watching.
What stayed with me wasn’t that she had no hands—it was how happy she was. Full of life, full of mischief. She bugged her sister, laughed at nothing, danced in place while waiting. She had that kind of energy that makes you forget everything else around you.
At one point her mom got up and walked ahead, and the two girls followed behind. The younger one was trying to put on a hoodie, struggling, obviously—no fingers. Her sister tried to help, but it wasn’t working. They both gave up and tied it around her waist, laughing like it was the best joke in the world.

That’s when it hit me. I was sitting there feeling off, lost in my own head, and this little girl—without hands—was out here laughing her face off, absolutely owning the moment.
I finished my coffee , was getting ready to go , but it was bugging me and I couldn’t leave just yet.
Instead of heading out, I turned the opposite direction down the street they’d walked. Sure enough, a couple blocks away, I spotted them again, sitting on a bench near a patch of park. The little girl was still little ms animated and giggling about something.

I parked the bike nearby and walked over. Pulled out my translator app and showed her mom a message: “Your daughter’s smile is beautiful. It made my morning.” Her mom smiled and nodded. I asked, again through the app, “Was she asking for pesos?” and the mom shyly said yes.
I gave the little girl 30 pesos—nothing big—and she took it with both of her hands, such as they were, beaming. “Gracias, gracias and of course that big smile?
I asked if I could take a photo with them to capture the smile. She was shy at first, but her mom encouraged her. So we all posed together, and her mom took the picture. She was just behind me and the ever little stinker, covered her face with her little arms and burst out laughing. Totally punked me.

Her sister was howling, even her mom was laughing. It was one of those rare moments when everyone’s just in it, sharing something honest.
So I said, “You think that’s funny, huh?” and reached into my pocket again. This time I gave her what I felt that smile, that moment, was really worth. Her eyes went wide. Big saucer eyes. She gasped, her hands barely holding the bill, and said “¡Gracias! ¡Gracias!” over and over. Her mom looked like she might cry.
I didn’t linger. Just smiled, got back on the bike, and carried on. My day was totally made.

But that little girl, Frida, I think that is what her mom said , made my ride. Maybe The whole ride, It’ll be one of the things I think of when people ask about the Mexico ride. The way she smiled like nothing in the world could stop her. The way she made everyone around her smile too. I don’t know what her life looks like, but I know she reminded me what a good day really feels like.

So I'm thinking, whatever problems you have.. well there is somebody with worse problems .. And they're smiling and living a big ol life..!!


https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...-jpeg.6761301/

APOTA Day-33 : Chiapa de Corzo to Ocosingo
 

Twisties, Topés and a Plaza That Rocks
Early Start, Easy Ride
Got out early while it was still cool and hit the road toward Palenque. The ride was solid, a backroad kind of day with lots of twisties, which almost got tiresome. I actually found myself wishing for a straight stretch. Still, it was smooth with just enough potholes to keep it interesting. After San Cristóbal, the scenery changed. The towns became smaller, felt more remote, and the topes? They multiplied and got more random in their style and fast. Oh, also Sunday traffic, some folks and trucks going over tope's like they were made of glass. Between that and the curves, it felt like the Sunday test of patience at times.

Sunday Vibes and Shifting Culture
And being Sunday, the roads were lined with people walking—many women, men and children dressed in what looked like traditional Mayan clothing, likely on their way to church. The people looked a little different, as they often do across different regions of Mexico. The churches started to shift too, simpler as I indicated, and not all Catholic. I passed a Presbyterian one and a few others that looked like newer faith groups.

The Rock Pile
Came around a bend in one small town and saw something , well kinda different. A huge pile of sandstone rocks sat outside a gate leading up a steep hill. Dozens of people—kids, parents, grandparents—were each hauling one or two rocks up the hill. Some had bags full. It looked like something out of biblical pyramid building ancient times. I assume they were building or expanding a church. Regardless, it was clearly an act of faith, commitment, and community. Truly something you are not going to see everyday.

Arriving in Ocosingo
Rolled into Ocosingo early afternoon and decided to stop for the day. It seemed like the right call, pushing on would’ve meant another long stretch without much in between. Ocosingo is a fair-sized town, with most amenities you’d expect. Big plaza, good energy. I scoped out a few hotels and chose Hotel Casa Lobe. From the outside it’s just a door, but inside—a beautiful courtyard, fantastic rooms, and great people. The parking is secure across the street. Checked in, cleaned up, and decided I had time to ride out to the nearby archaeological site, Toniná.

Trip to See Ruins .. well Ruined
Rode the rough, pothole strewn road out to the ruins, only to arrive into an empty parking lot and then be told by the lone guard they were closed. Tried explaining I’d come from Canada "that's nice" and showed him the Google listing that said open till 5 "nope", I smiled my most charming smile "he kept reading his magazine" and he wasn’t budging. Still closed. So I turned around and headed back to town. So surprised the smile didn't work, odd.!!

Ocosingo After Dark
Back in town, I parked the bike and set out to explore. The plaza is big—not flashy, but spacious and full of life. A large white church with weathered, mold-streaked walls anchors one side. I couldn’t get in at first—it was packed to standing-room-only with people spilling into the street. Sunday mass, I assume.
Wandered the funky nearby streets. Not overloaded with shops, but just enough. Not touristy. Found a place to eat—Las Delicias. Ordered something carne asada Combo'ish from the menu with help from pictures. The plate came loaded and looked as good as it tasted.

The Plaza Comes Alive
By 7:30, the plaza was absolutely alive. A band was playing modern rock music. People brought out chairs, kids were running around, clowns performing and blowing up ballons, families everywhere. The streets around the plaza turned into a cruise loop—cars, bikes, honking, waving. It felt like a scene from American Graffiti. Hundreds, of people were out. It was vibrant, noisy, and full of life. A perfect Sunday night snapshot of small-town Mexico. And the church eventually thinned out enough that I got to look inside. Simple, but the altar area was all made from small stones, not flashy, just incredibly intricate. M
ust have taken forever, at least it was flat ground and the rocks were smaller.!!

Wrapped up the night , walked back to the hotel and called it a night.

Tomorrow? Back on the road. Where to? Not sure yet.
Because it’s allpartoftheadventure

APOTA Day-34 : Ocosingo
 

A Rest Day in a Town That Surprised Me

I didn’t go anywhere today. no ride, no distance covered. Just a day off the bike to rest, catch up on some personal stuff, and let the body and mind reset. It was overdue.
I hung close to the hotel for most of the morning. Took care of a few maintenance-type things, repacked some stuff, sorted a little laundry, and cleaned up the mess of wires, chargers, and gear that always seems to explode inside the panniers.

The Market Scene
Later in the day, I headed out on foot to explore more of Ocosingo. Ended up stumbling into one of the bigger public markets I’ve seen so far. This thing is massive. Not touristy-polished. It’s raw, big, busy, crowded, and honestly, a little dark and chaotic. It took some digging to even find the entrance because most of the vendors have spilled out into the streets. That seems to be where the action is now, open air, constant movement. The whole area around it, for blocks in every direction, is packed with vendors, small shops, and people everywhere. It was alive with activity.
And I mean alive. The streets were wall-to-wall people and traffic, locals going about their day, kids in school uniforms, shopkeepers, street vendors selling fruit, sandals, roasted corn, random electronics, you name it. I didn’t spot another gringo the whole time, but nobody seemed to care. A few curious looks, but the interactions were friendly, sincere. I did my usual “No Español” shuffle in the shops, and we figured it out with smiles and gestures.

Celebration in the Plaza
Later in the evening, I walked back toward the main plaza. Turns out something was brewing there—a full-blown community celebration. A stage was set up, chairs filled with spectators, and people in traditional costumes were getting ready for something. Sure enough, it turned into a cultural event celebrating sports, arts, and traditions. Dancers, performers, even what i think were dramatizations of historical events. And the plaza was full. Hundreds of people in and around it.
The vibe? Unreal. The crowd wasn’t just watching—they were involved. After each performance, there were real, heartfelt rounds of applause. The audience was into it. The whole thing felt less like a show for people and more like a celebration by people. Families, kids, elders, everyone sharing the moment.

The Beautiful People
And that’s when something clicked for me.
I know this is one of the poorer parts of Mexico, at least socioeconomically. You can see it in the buildings, the streets, the wear and tear on everything. You can see it in the people. And I’ve spent time sailing and hanging on islands in the Caribbean too, on some of the poorer islands, places you might call borderline third-world. But I remember calling the people I met there “the beautiful people.” Not because of runway model looks, but because they carried themselves with a certain pride. They were grateful, sincere, and, even in hard circumstances, genuinely happy to greet you, to help you, to smile and make the most of the moment.

And Ocosingo? It gave me that same feeling.
Sure, people here probably wish they had more money or didn’t have to hustle as hard. But they’re present. And like other places I have seen in Mexico , hey show up for their community. They bring their kids out on a Monday night to celebrate and clap and dance. That’s not nothing. That’s everything.


Dinner and Done
Wrapped up the night with a fantastic meal, Milanesa de Pollo at a little place called Espresso. It was over-the-top good. Took some pictures, wandered the streets a bit more, then headed back to the hotel and called it a night.

Tomorrow? Probably back on the road. Palenque, maybe. Still undecided.
Because it’s .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

APOTA Day-35 : Ocosingo to Palenque
 

Twisties, Waterfalls, and Ruins

Rolling Out
Got up at a decent time, got everything all put together, and got an early start. Rolled out of Ocosingo around 9 a.m. And I know it sounds like the same old, same old, but one of the best roads I’ve been on this trip has to be the stretch from Ocosingo to Palenque. Sure, it had some potholes and busted-up bits where the lane might be missing, but the scenery, the twisties, the ride, it was just a really fun road. And maybe part of it was the mood I was in. The temperature helped too, mid-20s (70’s)most of the morning before it warmed up into the 30s (90’s) later on. But for that first part of the ride, absolutely fantastic. Big points to Highway 199.

Agua Azul
I rode for just under an hour and a half and got to Agua Azul. Cascadas de Agua Azul. It’s a very cool spot, a series of stepped waterfalls. Now, the entry rigmarole is a bit much. You pay 40 pesos at the big stone archway, then a couple hundred feet up the road, pay another 40 pesos. One is the park, one is government or something, they both give you official-looking tickets.
It’s touristy as all get-out. Tons of people trying to sell you everything, souvenirs, food, “special” parking spots in front of their restaurant. I got parked and made my way in. The water is this beautiful azure blue, cold too, or maybe just felt that way after the heat of the ride. You can swim in it, climb around, hang out on the rocks. I think some of it was impacted by an earthquake a while back and they’ve done some restoration to help it keep its flow and form. So it’s not entirely natural anymore, but it’s still very cool to see.

The Ruins of Palenque
After that, I geared back up and rode just under another hour and a half to the ruins at Palenque. And wow. I started with the jungle tour, which I’m glad I did. You can actually see how much of the site is still buried, stone walls, old tombs, whole sections still covered in growth. They figure only 5 to 10 percent has been uncovered. It gives you a real sense of the scale of it.
And then you come out to the main site, and it’s massive. A good mix of restored and untouched. They told me 40 percent is fully restored, 40 percent is cleaned up but not rebuilt, and 20 percent is left just as they found it. There are signs with English blurbs everywhere. You can climb a bunch of the temples, walk through tombs, including one called the Red Tomb where a queen was buried, and soak in the view from the top. Lush green all around, lots of shaded spots to sit and just take it in. It’s a great site, definitely worth the stop.

Settling in Palenque
After a full day, between the heat, the humidity, and all the walking, it was time to find a room. I ended up at Hotel Palenque Premier. Modern place, clean, AC, 850 pesos. Only downside is street parking. I pulled a bunch off the bike and locked it up. There’s cameras, and the police station’s right on the corner, like that will help ?? so fingers crossed.

The Town
Cleaned up and went for a walk. The plaza here is just a block away, big, lively, lots of people hanging out. A stage was set up with dancers in full traditional dress doing their thing. Seems to be a lot of that lately. Being a tourist town with the ruins and Agua Azul nearby, it’s got lots of shops, restaurants, and a pretty international crowd. I heard a bunch of French, and ??, being spoken, and of course plenty of Mexican tourists too. And yes a church off the plaza , simple ,by the Cathedral style church's I have seen, what was impressive was the crowd at the church and the choir practising
Stopped for dinner at a little restaurant, don’t remember the name, and had chicken fajitas. I’ll toss in a pic. Food was fantastic, like pretty much everything I’ve eaten here so far. I don’t think I’ve had a bad meal yet.

Calling It a Night
After that, I called it a night. A solid day. Not crazy miles, but between the heat, the walking, and everything else, it added up. Tomorrow I head east again. Not sure where to, but that’s kind of the point.

Because it’s AllPartOfTheAdventure

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APOTA Day-36 : Palenque to Escárcega
 

Long Straights, Fewer Topes, and a New'ish Mexican Town
36 days. Who’d have thunk it? 36 days and nights and a lot of miles n smiles. I haven’t counted in a while, but it’s quite a few.

Today’s ride was really different from what I have been riding the last few days . Leaving Palenque, there were no twisties—just road. Straight. Bizarre, honestly. I actually had the bike up to speed for real, ok even beyond a bit. I thought, “Oh my God, I haven’t done this for so long.” I’ve been twisting and turning for weeks. The road ranged from decent to okay to just missing altogether in some spots. Some stretches were basically pothole fields—almost gravel. I even saw locals filling potholes with this red muck in one section. This was highways 10 and 203 I took the back wasy to connect to 186. And 186 is better, still some rough sections and potholes, but long and straight and faster. Oh, and lots of truck traffic or just traffic period. Was not used to that, or at speed anyways.

The country along 10 and 203? Honestly, it felt like high country ranchland in the USA or Canada. Big green fields, cattle, ranches. Just flat and wide open. I guess the Yucatán Peninsula really is just that—flat. And with fewer towns, there were way fewer topes, which felt like a bit of a treat. It was actually kind of nice to just cruise for a while.

Rolling into Escárcega
I rolled into Escárcega around 1:30 or 2 p.m. It’s a newer town, only about 120 years old, which makes it brand new by Mexican standards. It kind of reminded me of the west in Canada or the USA also, where a 60-year-old building gets a heritage plaque.
Escárcega’s an industrial hub, built on rail and trucking. It’s a workaday town, no doubt. But it’s got everything. I found a hotel—pretty sure it was called YAAKUNA, decent room, secure parking, AC, all the essentials. Cost :500 pesos. Can’t complain. It’s only three blocks from Centro.

Exploring Town
After settling in and cleaning up, I wandered into town. Like most Mexican towns, lots of people out and about, lots of little shops. I found the public market, but honestly, it wasn’t much. Big space, but most of the stalls were closed up. I was there around 3 or 3:30, which shouldn’t have been too late in the day. Maybe it’s more of a weekend thing, or earlier in the morning. Hard to say. It felt like maybe the market’s best days were behind it.
What stood out more was this pedestrian strip—like a small paseo—no cars or motos, just foot traffic. It runs about three blocks, connecting a park to a plaza. Shops line it, though again, a lot were closed. Still, as the evening wore on, more people came out, more shops opened up, and it felt more lively.

The Mayan Train
You can’t miss the massive overhead rail line running through town. That’s the Mayan Train—Tren Maya—a government mega-project aiming to boost tourism and jobs in the Yucatán and southern Mexico. It’s been controversial, with lots of pushback from environmental groups and Indigenous communities, and from what I can tell, it’s not fully operational yet.
Some parts are running though. I guess the line from here to Palenque is active. They say it takes about two and a half hours with a couple stops. But it’s far from running at full capacity. Seems like a lot of money spent on something that’s still trying to figure itself out. But hey, every country has its big projects that take forever and cost more than planned. Canada, the U.S.—we’re no strangers to that.
I swung by the station—new, fancy, but totally empty. Just a security guard. No passengers, no movement. Felt kind of surreal. Across the street, though, was a big, rough soccer field with some crazy bleachers, that kept some welders busy for a few days.!!

Three-Wheelers and Small Town Vibes
Here, the three-wheeled moto and pedal carts are the workhorses. Some have the cargo or passenger part in front, some in back. No tuk-tuks here—these are DIY, hand-built rigs for the most part. And there are taxis too, lots of them, but it’s those carts that really move stuff around.
The plaza itself was quiet. No big fancy churches either—makes sense, since this isn’t a colonial town. The pioneers were long gone by the time this place was built. It’s not bad here, just not old Mexico. A different kind of Mexican town. Still real, just not ancient.

Calling It a Night
So that was the day. A good ride, a straight road, and a town built on work, not history. We’re working our way toward the Caribbean now.
Did I mention it was 35c / 95f and humid, ok if you are moving. Not so much if you are not..!!

Like the prairies:
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Good roads ,Bad roads. :
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Public Market :
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Last Call on This Ride Report
 

I’ve been posting the day-by-day ride report from my Mexico trip here, but so far… crickets. No feedback, no questions, not even a “cool story, bro.”

Unless someone gives me a compelling reason to keep posting — even just one person actually following along who wants more — I’m going to stop updating it here.

Plenty of other places I’m sharing this where people are somewhat engaging. No hard feelings, just don’t see the point in continuing on here.

Speak now or watch it fade.

Have fun out there !!!

Hello Apota,


may be, you red(readed? - english is too complicated for me - spanish, french is much more better) my last post here - also, no comment:


https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...america-106206


Writing and reading is different - take it easy. The day before yesterday, I went to a concert of Patti Smith and her son - here in Freiburg. May be, you understand ... .


Greetings from Germany,


Ferdi



P.S.: Ché shipped from México to Cuba (with Fidél and others). The boat is now in the garden of a museum in La Habana, called "Granma", like the offical cuban newspaper - or grandmother.



P.P.S.: Many years ago a "gringo" girl asked me in Guatemala. "How it is possible to learn german? The babies have to switch from there native english language to such a horrilbe speech." Innocents abroad? Mark Twain is not too old to read his books.

5,341 views, and 26 likes - not so bad! People here tend to read stories, but do less "attaboys" than some sites. Keep it up! :)

APOTA – The Mexican Adventure 2025
 

I’ve read all of these and subscribed to your thread. I never commented just so you’d have a continuous thread for future readers.

I absolutely love your writing, and was worried when the posts started to slow. I hope you finish the reports - or if you finish them elsewhere please link them as I’d love to finish reading your journey.

Your writing has that great style of some excellent travel writers that makes you feel transported there - the right balance of detail and story without bogging down in either.

Apota,

Great report.

I post my ride reports here just as a travel journal so that I can always look back to the places I've been. As time passes by I tend to forget and re-reading my own reports jogs my memory.

HU members don't comment much on ride reports.

:scooter::scooter:bier

APOTA Day 37: Escárcega to Chetumal
 

Big Roads, Big Trucks, and a Bit of a Letdown

Left Escárcega early this morning and made my way to Chetumal. And yes, pretty much straight roads again the whole way. Big highway, wide shoulders, decent pavement overall, but not particularly exciting. There was a fair bit of traffic and a lot of construction. I’d say around 30% of the ride was torn up or being worked on. Some of it you couldn’t even figure out what they were doing. Some of it seemed kind of pointless, but I’m sure someone has a plan.
And the military presence? Heavy. Not patrolling, but big army trucks—convoys hauling gear, and some even helping with the construction. There’s gotta be a big base somewhere nearby. They were everywhere.
So yeah, kind of a cruise. Nothing challenging, just time in the saddle. Lost an hour due to a time zone shift when I hit Chetumal.

Chetumal: Not What I Imagined
Now, about Chetumal. This was supposed to be a bit of a milestone. Even though Zihuatanejo was the fun, symbolic first stage destination, Chetumal was the real geographical turnaround point. The Caribbean coast. The edge. I always knew I’d end up here before heading north up the coast toward Cancún.
And I’m not sure what I was expecting—but it wasn’t this.

Chetumal is just really different. It’s flat, like most of the peninsula, and the streets are wide, blacktop, and laid out almost like a grid. No cobblestone, no brick, none of the usual charm. It felt… like the USA or Canada. Honestly, parts of it really reminded me of a smaller U.S. or Canadian city. And maybe that was part of the problem.
I’d planned to treat myself to a seafront room on the Malecón. First hotel didn’t seem to exist anymore, but the next one had a great corner room with a wraparound view on the third floor. Room wasn’t quite ready, so I sat down at the restaurant and had a simple Milanesa de Pollo. And it was… fine. Not bad, just very “prepared.” Like something you’d get in a chain restaurant back home. The sauce was decent, but the vibe was off. Wait staff felt less friendly than what I’ve gotten used to all across Mexico. Prices were definitely more touristy.

Exploring the City
Once I was settled in, I cleaned up and hit the Malecón. The weather didn’t help—overcast, windy, and the sea was rough and a bit dirty. So no turquoise Caribbean postcard view today. Still, I walked a good stretch of it. The Malecón itself is long and clean, but again—felt kind of impersonal. Government buildings lined a big stretch of it, and what I thought were vendor tents turned out to be protest camps. Dozens of them. Some kind of civil worker or education protest from what I could tell, with banners, folding chairs, and signs everywhere.
There are a lot of statues here. Every few hundred feet, another monument to someone or something—some impressive, some not so much. There’s even a huge structure out over the water that looks like maybe a lighthouse or something marine-related. Nope—Googled it, and it serves no real purpose. I think it’s called the Mega Escultura. It might house tourism offices underneath, but otherwise? Just kind of… there. And the waterfront was a lot of nightclubs and restaurants that looked pretty uptown, not very Mexican

As I made my way back through central, I kept trying to figure out why it all felt so off. And here’s some thoughts. In the smaller towns across Mexico, the markets and street vendors feel personal. You’re buying from someone who owns that spot, who lives off what they sell. You feel a connection. Here, it’s mostly storefronts—big, clean, organized places, staffed by employees. There’s just not the same soul in it. The streets are all like that, because they are wide and far apart that sense of closesness and community are lost. I did not see many streets that two cars could not comfortably pass with cars parked on either side, unless it was a one way and they were also wide with parking on both sides.
In “real” Mexico, the vendors are shoulder to shoulder, or their store and wares literally spill out onto the sidewalk. Here? There’s nothing really on the sidewalk. Because who would put it all out and bring it in every day? Employees??

Chetumal isn’t bad. It’s just… not what I thought it would be. For the most part on this trip I have just let myself be amazed and taken it all in, no thoughts on how "it would be" and possibly that was my mistake here. Or maybe I caught it on a rough day. Maybe the sea is bluer when the wind isn’t blowing. Maybe the smiles come easier on another day. But after so much warmth and character in the towns I’ve passed through, this place felt kind of sterile. A little Western. A little… forgettable.

Calling It a Night
So that was Day 37. A long straight ride, a new town, and a reminder that expectations can be tricky. You never really know what you’re gonna get. I might hang around a little tomorrow, or I might push north. But I'm moving forward much more open minded on what is ahead.

And that's why it's called .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

ps: Back in Escárcega, someone mentioned they thought they’d heard Andy and Red were heading toward Chetumal. After today, I can’t imagine they’d be here. Maybe I just didn’t find the right part of town. Or maybe they worked there way up the coast to somewhere smaller.

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