APOTA – The Mexican Adventure 2025
 

Backdated ride report from a 60+ day solo motorcycle journey through Ed’s head and mainland Mexico.

One man, one KTM, walking, sweating and figuring it out as he goes.

Originally shared in parts on Facebook — this is the full story, posted here day by day. Not a highlight reel, the real ride.

APOTA Ride Prep — Hope is Not a Strategy
 

Before we get into the ride itself, here’s a quick look at how I prepared — and I use that word loosely.

Training? Absolutely. I’ve been in the gym 5 to 6 days a week for years. But for this trip, I decided to take it next level.

Here’s the training video. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.



Packing? Controlled chaos. Camera gear, backup gear, gear I didn’t need but brought anyway. I left Puerto Peñasco in early February with a KTM 1290 Super Adventure T, no solid schedule, and a route that was “mostly, sorta, kinda” planned.

Right before I left, a guy on the beach named Brian asked me what I was doing. I told him I hoped to do a ride report.

He looked at me and said, “Hope is not a strategy.”

That landed. So here we are — no hoping, just doing. This is me figuring out HUBB and telling the story as it unfolded.

Next post: what kind of ride report this actually is, and how it’s structured.

APOTA Ride Report — How This is Gonna Work
 

Alright, before I start dropping Day 1 and beyond, here’s the setup.

This ride happened earlier this year — starting in early February. I’ve been on the road over 60 days, riding solo through mainland Mexico. These posts are
backdated but were written day-by-day while the trip was happening. I’m posting now that I’ve had time to breathe, sort photos, and clean things up a bit.

So, if you’re wondering why the weather doesn’t match real-time or why it feels like I’m talking from the past — that’s why.

You’ll get one day per post — some longer, some short and sweet. The ride had all the usual ingredients: dirt, pavement, blown plans, great food, weird encounters, and a lot of walking (yeah, I log more steps than most riders would ever admit).

There’s no fake drama, no clickbait, and no affiliate links to my favorite socks. Just the ride, as it happened.

Day 1 – Finally Rolling: Puerto Peñasco to Bahía Kino
 

The ride kicked off from Puerto Peñasco, Mexico where I’d been staged for a bit, living out of the motorhome and getting everything dialed. The bike was packed, the last-minute logistics handled, and when the day came to roll out — I rolled. No fanfare. Just threw a leg over and pointed the front wheel south. And it felt damn good to get moving.

I left Puerto Peñasco early and eased into the first real day of the trip. I’ve been prepping for this for a while now — physically, mentally, mechanically — and there’s still a moment where it doesn’t feel real until you’re on the road. That moment hit today.

Cautious Optimism and a Full Tank (Literally)
I wouldn’t say I was in full-blown adventure mode yet — maybe more like cautiously engaged. I need a few more days before I can say everything feels dialed: me, the bike, the gear, and the headspace. But the first steps were taken, and that counts.

The fuel gauge decided to stick at full, so that will be fun. I tracked mileage manually — burned about 26 liters for the day and got around 43 mpg. No complaints from the bike otherwise. Nothing fell off, nothing rattled loose, and it ran smooth all day.

Body Check
I’m in good shape overall, but I’m not in full riding shape yet. Stiffness crept in after an hour or so. I had to stop and stretch often — swinging arms, shaking things loose, walking it off. The birthday count might be catching up a bit. I figure a few more days and my body will settle in.

Roads, Stops, and Slalom Mode
Highway 3 served up the usual mixed bag:
• About half the ride was smooth and easy
• Some rough patches and cracked pavement
• A few legit pothole slalom zones with sand in the holes for fun

No sketchy traffic, no wild gravel, just the usual flavor of Mexican roads. The 1290 soaked it up and kept me rolling.

Only a few official stops: a customs-style checkpoint and two quick chats with local police. Standard stuff — “Where you going?” and “Can I see your registration?” — nothing serious. One survey-looking checkpoint I bypassed without issue.

Landing in Bahía Kino
Rolled into Bahía Kino and scouted a bit before settling on a basic hotel. Small, laid-back town with a decent pier and a quiet energy. I had fish tacos at Brisas Del Mar — killer meal and a solid ocean view to end the day.

Photos from Day 1
Instead of embedding individual pictures, I’m experimenting with short slideshow-style videos for this ride report. This first one is more of a pilot — just a handful of photos, some narration, some text, and it runs about 60 seconds. It’s a work in progress and will evolve into whatever it should be. Future posts will include more images, and maybe more narration… or maybe none, if it’s just pics. A bit more polish will come as I settle into the workflow.



Day 1 Takeaways
• Gotta stretch more and ease into riding shape
• Fuel gauge isn’t working, so it’s all range math from here
• Packing system still evolving — need better access to daily gear
• Roads are hit-and-miss, but manageable. No big surprises

Tomorrow, head south and make it .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

Nice!

:scooter::D

APOTA Day-2 : Bahía Kino to San Carlos
 

Easy Miles and Flying Driveshafts

A short and easy ride today — just 120 miles from Bahía Kino to San Carlos, with about two and a half hours in the saddle. The roads were a little better than Day 1, but still had their fair share of potholes. Nothing wild, just enough to keep you alert.

A “What the Hell Was That?” Moment
I pulled over mid-morning for a water break and stretch. While I was standing there, a propane truck rumbled past. Something about it sounded off — a weird metal clatter or vibration I couldn’t quite pin down. Didn’t think too much of it at the time.

A few miles later, I saw that same truck pulled over on the shoulder… but what really caught my eye was the chunk of something massive lying in the middle of the road.

At first, I thought it was a tire. But as I got closer, I realized it was the truck’s driveshaft — full assembly, hanger bearing and all. Looked like 120 pounds of twisted steel, maybe 10 feet long, just sitting there on the blacktop like a missile someone forgot to launch.

That thing could’ve killed someone.

If I’d been riding behind that truck when it let go, it would’ve been ugly. No room to dodge, no time to react. Just a flying chunk of steel coming at you at highway speed. So yeah — a reminder to anyone riding out here: don’t hang too close behind anything big. Blown tires, brake drums, driveshafts… there’s plenty on the road that can turn your day (or your life) upside down.

Checkpoint Quickie
One police checkpoint at an intersection near a station. They asked where I was headed, took a look at my driver’s license, gave the bike a once-over, and waved me on. Nothing complicated.

Landing in San Carlos
San Carlos made a good first impression. It’s noticeably cleaner and more organized than Bahía Kino, with more restaurants and a bit of structure. I cruised around town for a while before checking into the Totonaka RV Park. Overpaid for a small room — but as an RV guy, I wanted to see what the park was like. It’s a solid setup. Definitely nicer than anything I’ve seen in Puerto Peñasco. Lots of Canadians around.

Could be a place to spend more time in the future — maybe an RV stop next year?

Day 2 Takeaways
• Easy miles, no rush — short days are underrated
• Don’t ride close behind trucks — ever
• San Carlos is worth exploring more
• Hitting the gym on the road? 100% worth it

Tomorrow? No clue yet. Might stick around and explore for another day. I know, no food porn today — kept it on the sun side so my snacks stayed warm. Priorities.

Good day and it's .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

Photos from Day 2
Another short slideshow-style video again today — I’m still playing with format. This one’s just a few photos and clips, nothing dramatic, but it gives a feel for the day.

APOTA Day 3 – San Carlos & Guaymas : A Chill Day, No Miles, No Regrets
 

No big ride today. Just stayed local, rolled around San Carlos, dipped into Guaymas for a bit, and called it good.

Guaymas – Big City Vibes
I cruised into Guaymas mid-day just to have a look. It definitely has a bigger city feel — a mix of older, funkier buildings and newer big box stores and fast food joints. The Malecón was quiet, not much going on for a Thursday afternoon. It wasn’t bad, but I didn’t feel the need to linger. It was one of those places you check out and then turn back toward what feels better — and San Carlos feels better.

Back in San Carlos
I spent most of the day riding around town and soaking in the setting. San Carlos reminds me a lot of Phoenix — desert landscape, rocky hills, saguaros all over — but unlike Phoenix, there’s actually a sea with a beach here. That part makes all the difference.

Took a long walk down the beach in the afternoon. The ocean breeze was solid, and the sunset later on was perfect — that quiet kind of beauty that slows your head down. One of those days that makes you grateful you’re not on a schedule.

Low-Key Moments
Back at the RV park, the Canadians were all gathered under the palapa watching TV, camp chairs out, plastic cups in hand. Felt like being at the lake as a kid in a weird way. I didn’t stay long, but it made me smile.

I pretty much snacked my way through the day — street food, whatever caught my eye. No pics, my bad. Probably because I was too hungry by the time I got to anything.

Tinkering and Small Wins
Spent a bit of time adjusting the luggage setup and sorting a few pieces of gear that had been bothering me since Day 1. Just small tweaks, but it helps. Talked to a few folks around the park — always good for a couple of stories. And in a completely random surprise, the fuel gauge decided to start working again. Not a clue why, but I’ll take it. Small victories.

Photos from Day 3
Just a handful of clips and photos today — no big riding shots, but it captures the vibe. Slow pace, quiet town, sunsets and beach scenes.



Tomorrow, more of making it .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

APOTA Day-4 – San Carlos to Álamos: A Taste of Old Mexico
 

Today started slow, no rush, no big miles. I spent the morning chatting with folks around the RV park, packing up at an easy pace, and finally rolled out of San Carlos around 11 AM. The route to Álamos wasn’t long, just under 200 miles, and I was in no hurry.

Getting There – Roads and Headspace
I didn’t have a fully locked-in route, so I ended up on more toll roads than expected. Still working through a bit of that Mexico travel anxiety, not quite comfortable yet picking the sketchy looking backroads over the main routes. Some of the toll avoidance options looked like time-eaters, so I stuck with the direct way.

The ride itself was smooth. Cool in the morning, warmer as the day went on. The bike ran perfect, and I stopped a few times to stretch and take it all in. Small victory: the fuel gauge is still working.

Rolling Into Álamos – A Shift in Vibe
Álamos felt different the second I rolled in. Streets twisted and narrowed into alleys, some ending without warning, others shrinking to the width of a walking lane. Stone roads, curbs and sidewalks three feet high, and colors everywhere , this place felt like something old, something preserved. The charm hit hard.

Finding a Place to Stay
I tried a couple of spots , one looked abandoned, not a soul around. I circled a few times and moved on. Ended up at Hotel Dolisa, which had secure parking and a decent setup, 1500 pesos for the night. More than I hoped, but it felt right. Welcome to 2025 — everything costs more.

Luis the Taco Guy / Local Ambassador
After unpacking, I headed into town and found a taqueria at the first plaza. That’s where I met Luis, taco chef, guide, and nonstop talker. His English matched my Spanish, which meant conversations were hilarious and basically a mix of words, gestures, and mutual guessing.

Didn’t matter. We communicated. He pulled out his phone, started showing me videos of places I had to see, Mazamitla, Juanacatlán, Val’Quirico — and tried hard to talk me into staying until Sunday for a 200-vehicle car show in the plaza. Classic cars, bikes, the whole deal. Tempting.

And the tacos? Excellent. Big, flavorful, and with a bottle of water, the whole meal cost me 75 pesos. Total win.

Exploring Álamos
After eating, I walked to the second plaza. This one was just as alive — cathedral, street vendors, restored hotels, people everywhere. The vibe was tourist-friendly but not fake. More like a place that’s still proud of its history. Security presence was noticeable, lots of rent-a-guards and private patrol types , but it didn’t feel tense. It felt safe and welcoming.

Route Talk – Highway 188
I asked a handful of locals about heading south on Route 188. Not one gave it a good report. Descriptions ranged from “completely destroyed” to “bad people” and “stealers.” That was enough for me. I’m solo, and my gut says backtrack to Hwy 15 and head south from there. Feels like the smarter call.

Photos from Day 4
Snapped a few shots and clips today, mostly around Álamos streets, plazas, and the small details that give the place its soul. Video below if you want to get a feel for the place.



Day 4 Takeaways
• Álamos was my first real taste of an old Mexican town, and I loved it
• Travel anxiety is still present, but fading
• Conversations over tacos might be the best part of this whole thing
• The fuel gauge still works (for now)
• Starting to settle into the rhythm of the ride

Tomorrow? More miles, more exploring,
and whatever comes next .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

APOTA Day 5 – Álamos to Guamúchil
 

Maintenance and Miles
Not every day on the road is going to be wild, and honestly, that’s not a bad thing. Some days are about forward movement, getting things done, and settling deeper into the rhythm of the ride.

I started the morning in Álamos with some basics. Fuel up, bank stop to top up pesos, and a quick chain oiling. No rush, no drama — just slow rolling out and getting moving.

Highway 188 – Taking the Gamble
Originally I’d planned to avoid Highway 188 after some rough reports from some locals, but while fueling up I talked to a few guys at the station who gave me a different take. No mention of anything sketchy, the worst they had to say was about bad drivers, not bad people. That was enough for me to take a chance on it.

The road itself was better than expected. Some potholes, a few rough patches, and maybe three spots where you could tell it had been washed out and rebuilt recently. Nothing I’d call dangerous or sketchy. Definitely not pristine, but no worse than a typical Mexican back highway so far. I figure that’s what the earlier warnings were about. Glad I took it.

Aside from that, the ride was uneventful. And sometimes that’s a win. No surprises, no weirdness, just road, throttle, and thinking time.

Landing in Guamúchil
I rolled into Guamúchil in the late afternoon. No big meals, no big moments, just a quiet night and a decent room. Grabbed some food, reset a bit, and geared down. It was a maintenance and miles day, and that’s part of the adventure too.

Photos from Day 5
Didn’t shoot much today — just a few road clips and snapshots. It was one of those ride days where the camera stayed in the tank bag.

Tomorrow I head to Mazatlán. I’m expecting a bit more going on there.

getting a little more comfortable with Mexico everyday & that is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

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APOTA Day 6 – Guamúchil to Mazatlán
 

Miles, Checkpoints, and First Impressions
Another uneventful but solid day on the road. About 190 miles south. Fuel gauge still working, bike running great. No complaints.

I left Guamúchil and headed toward Culiacán, then cut across through farming country — a lot of lefts and rights, and rights and lefts. Eventually jumped onto the bigger road, paid a few tolls, and made my way into Mazatlán.

Saw a lot of Guardia Nacional and military vehicles along the way — small convoys of three to six trucks rolling up and down the highway north of Mazatlán. Hit a couple of checkpoints too, but it was all smiles and waves through again.

Starting to think it’s some kind of setup to let me get deep into the country before someone actually checks my papers and realizes they’re wrong.

First Impressions of Mazatlán
Rolled into town and first met up with a friend at one of the local RV parks. After catching up for a bit, I went looking for a place to stay. Ended up finding a small, simple hotel right on the main strip near all the big resort zones. Not fancy — just a basic three-star setup — but exactly what I wanted.

The hotel has a gated entrance with good security, and I was able to park the bike safely out front. It has pool chairs for chilling out and is right across the street from the beach. It’s not somewhere I’m going to spend much time indoors anyway, so it works perfectly as a base to explore Mazatlán.

The city itself? Big, flashy, and kind of “All-Inclusive Vegas” energy. Not sure how long I’ll stay — maybe a couple of days, maybe less. I’ll check it out, rest up a bit, and see what it has to offer.

Looking Ahead
Once I leave Mazatlán, it gets more interesting. I plan to head up Highway 40 toward Durango and start hitting some of the places and sights I have been looking forward to for a while.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. For now, it’s enough to say the anxiety is easing off, the bike is solid, and I’m just enjoying the ride and seeing where it takes me.

too much fun and .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

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APOTA Day-7 : Explore Mazatlán
 

Markets, Murals, and Small Moments
Got a great night’s sleep, must have needed it. I was up early and took a morning walk on the beach, which turned out to be a pretty solid way to start the day. Grabbed a coffee, came back to the hotel, sat by the pool for a bit, soaked up some sun, and figured out a plan. While I was at it, I found a self-guided walking tour online that looked interesting. Decided that was the move for the day.

Packed a small backpack, threw on sandals, and jumped on one of the green buses that run through town. Thirteen pesos later, I was dropped off right near the main market.

The Market and Old Mazatlán
The market is massive, over 250 vendors inside, plus all the shops, art galleries, and street stalls surrounding it. Total chaos in the best way. I know it gets even busier when the cruise ships roll in, but even today, it had plenty of people and plenty of energy.

The walking tour was a great call. It took me through some amazing architecture and artwork. Something about Mexican art just feels alive, raw, colorful, expressive, full of energy. The area had a strong arts district vibe, with galleries, murals, and a beautiful old theater. Outside the theater, I caught an older couple dancing together on the sidewalk, one of those little unexpected moments that makes a place feel real. Unfortunately, the theater itself was locked, so no peek inside.

Next stop was the Basilica. Massive, intricate, and busy. It was not just tourists either, locals stopping to touch statues, kneel, pray. Hard to capture in words. Powerful place.

Malecón and the Old Fremont Hotel
I wandered down to the Malecón and stopped at what used to be the Old Fremont Hotel, now a Best Western. Took the elevator to the rooftop bar and pool deck. Unreal views of Mazatlán from up there. Met a few fellow Canadians who shared some local intel, always good to pick up more information on the area.

Best Ceviche and a Little Help from the Locals
Later, down at street level, my phone was running low. Thought about buying a charger, but a small street vendor shop offered to charge it for me instead. Locked the screen, handed it over, and trusted the flow.

While it charged, I grabbed some street ceviche, easily some of the best I have ever had. Ordering was a team effort. Every local at the stand pitched in to help me figure out the order. Lots of laughing, mostly at my Spanish, but all good energy. Great food, great people, and a great memory.

The Bus Back, Eventually
Wandered back toward the bus stops and caught a green bus again, thirteen pesos. Small note to self, check the direction before getting on. I ended up on a longer, loopy ride back, but eventually landed near the hotel. No harm done.

Looking Ahead
Tomorrow, who knows. Maybe Stone Island, maybe more beach time, maybe something totally different. Just playing it by ear.

Way too many photos from today, markets, murals, plazas, but I will include a few highlights.

Getting in the groove is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

You Tube Slide Show:

Apota day 8
 

Lazy Beach Day In Mazatlán
Yep, still in Mazatlán, taking it slow. Very lazy day, seemed to be exactly what I need.

Started the morning with coffee, caught up on a few phone calls by the pool, then grabbed a simple breakfast before heading to the beach, where I stayed all day.
Music from Brentsters in the background, feet in the sand, just chilling and soaking it all in.
And
That was pretty much it. When I was done the beach shopped for a few necessities and cleaned up to end the day at La Catrina. Fun little spot, where a really great band played some fun tunes until about 9. Didn’t catch the name, but they made for a great night.

No big adventures today, no deep reflections—just a beach, some music, and a reminder that this isn’t a race.
Just lazily thinking about the miles and adventures ahead.
This whole slow down, breathe, and feel the sand between my toes thing—it’s really the way to do this.
It feels right , right now .. good enough for me

Was even a slow picture day.

And tomorrow? Who knows—maybe rinse and repeat.
because even bummin is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

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APOTA Day-9
 

The Beach Report—Stone Island Edition

Can’t believe I’m already on Day 9 of going to see Andy and Red, hoping they’ll wait for me:rofl. So yes, still in Mazatlán, but the wheels start turning again tomorrow.
So no motorcycle ride report—this is still the beach report.
After a leisurely start to the morning, I got my poop in a group, packed a backpack, threw on my flip-flops, and jumped on a green bus headed for the boat ferry to Stone Island.

Stone Island—Big Beach, Horses, Iguanas, Big Questions
Huge , very cool beach. Full of people, vendors, and a cruise ship crowd. A bit circus like maybe, horseback rides on the sand, a guy on a quad with a giant iguana charging people for photos, banana boat rides, and plenty of food and drink.

Had some time to talk with a few locals (those with a bit of English to match my pathetic Spanish), and there’s definitely some tension in the air. Tourism is way down, and people are hesitant to travel or even go out at night because of recent cartel activity.
There was even an incident near my hotel last night—shots fired, but details are murky. Some say two shots, some say more, and no one seems to know if anyone was hurt or if it was just noise. Plenty of rumors, no real answers.
The locals are watching closely to see what happens with Carnival—huge event, huge parade, expected to bring tons of people. But will they actually show up? Hard to say, since so many are scared to travel right now.

And yet… here I am in Mexico. Not sure what that says about my sanity.??

Back to Centro—One Last Round at the Market
After wandering Stone Island, checking out the harbor, the town, and the quieter side of things, I grabbed a green bus back to town.
And I couldn’t resist—had to go back to the market. There’s just so much to see, and the food is ridiculously good. Walked around, took in the sights, grabbed something to eat, and then made my way back to start packing up for the ride ahead.

Tomorrow - A Ride to Look Forward To
Tomorrow morning, I roll out early (that is the plan), taking the old Highway 40 toward Durango. Really looking forward to that road—apparently twisty, scenic, and full of history. Sounds like my kind of ride.

Still not sure what the plan is once I hit Durango. The new toll road is supposed to be incredible, but do I double back and take that, or head down the backroads toward Ruiz? Haven’t decided yet.
Playing it by ear, as you can tell, that’s kind of the theme of this trip anyway.

Plenty of fun pictures from today—big beach, horses, iguanas, good food, and another solid day in Mexico.

Life is good and is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

APOTA Day-10 : Riding the Old Highway 40
 

Sketchy Roads, Armed Encounters, and Mountain Towns

Got up early, packed up, and rolled out of the room. First stop was to fuel up and get a last-minute report on the old Highway 40. It sounded as positive as any other report, so that was the plan. Left Mazatlán and headed into the mountains.
Getting to Highway 40 was uneventful.

The Wild Ride Up Highway 40
Old Highway 40 is something else. Twisty, scenic, and a whole lot of sketchy. There is everything on that road: rocks across the lanes, some the size of small cars, full-on rockslides, fallen trees, loose sand, and gravel covering some corners. Cows and horses wander freely.

Had to stop once because a group of horses was being herded down the road by a guy in a pickup truck. The only way past a rockslide blocking the road was to wait for them to clear the way.

The road itself is not in terrible shape, but you do not want to come flying around a blind corner at speed and find yourself face-to-face with a boulder, a tree, or a bunch of livestock. It keeps you on your toes, to put it lightly.

An Unexpected Encounter
At one point, I pulled off near a small town called Revolcaderos to adjust some gear. Normally, I stay pretty aware of what is going on around me, but I got a little too focused on what I was doing.

Next thing I know, there is a guy standing right beside me. Mid-twenties, rifle in hand. Beside him, a teenager, maybe fifteen or sixteen years old, also carrying a rifle.

That got my attention.

They just stood there, watching me. It was one of those moments where the background music should start playing, something banjo heavy. I really hoped these were not the bad guys. They did not have that bad guy look or attitude though.

One of them rattled off something in Spanish. I said “No Español.” He nodded, said something like “Todos buenos,” meaning “all good.”

I said “Sí.” They gave a wave and walked away.

No idea what that was about. They did not look like hunters, more like some kind of local vigilante group or peacekeepers. Maybe protecting the town, maybe just checking what I was up to. Either way, it was bizarre. I did not stick around to find out more. Got back on the bike and got moving.

Rolling Into El Salto
Eventually made it to El Salto. I stopped early because I needed to tinker with a few things on the bike and called it a day.

Checked Sjoerd’s guidebook and found two hotel options. One was in town, Hotel Pino, and another with the old steam locomotive out front, now called Real de Bosque. Picked the latter. Secured a room for about forty dollars, with the bike tucked away safely right outside.

Threw on some gear and went out to explore. El Salto is a busy little town. It feels like a shopping hub for the smaller towns in the area. Tons of stores, all ready for business, people coming and going, and as usual, lots of places to eat. Grabbed some tacos, took a few photos, and pretty much just wandered around checking the place out.

The town itself has a really industrial logging town feel. Also noticed huge aqueduct-style gutters running through town. Must get massive water flow in the spring.

And they have a 24 Hour Funeral Shop. If you look close in the picture, you can see the coffins on display inside.

Tomorrow – Finishing the Old 40 and Figuring Out What’s Next
Tomorrow I will finish the ride up the old Highway 40 into Durango, then figure out the next move. The new toll road looks absolutely incredible. I caught glimpses of it while riding today, and it is tempting.

Do I double back and ride it? Or do I take the backroads down to Ruiz? Still undecided. And it is not like I am off schedule, or even have one.

The Bike and Gear – No Complaints
The bike is running great. Fuel gauge still working, no issues so far, and I am really happy with the setup.

Everything from the riding gear to the luggage system is doing what it should, and that makes a big difference. No frustrations, just loving the ride and loving Mexico.

APOTA Day-11 the Mexican Adventure
 

Durango, The Toll Road, and El Rosario

Woke up in El Salto and had to take care of a few life maintenance tasks. Made a couple of phone calls, sorted some things out, and then fueled up before hitting the road.

The rest of the old Highway 40 into Durango was nothing like the wild ride the day before. It was way tamer, not nearly as dramatic, just steady riding and covering ground. Actually, the curves were a little more open, so you could carry a bit more speed, which made for a fun, flowing ride.

I rolled into Durango, grabbed a quick coffee, but didn’t feel any pull to stick around. The plan was already forming in my head—to double back down the toll road. Everyone says it’s spectacular, and I wanted to see it for myself. One hundred fifteen bridges and sixty-eight tunnels sounded like something worth riding.

The Durango Toll Road, Bridges, Tunnels
That road is a serious piece of engineering. Massive bridges stretch over deep valleys, tunnels cut straight through the mountains, and for the most part, the pavement is smooth enough to let you enjoy it all. There were a few potholes and some tunnel work going on, so I hit a couple of stops and backups, but nothing major.

It was the right call. No regrets riding that road. You could carry speed through a lot of it, not pushing anything crazy, just enjoying the ride and the view.

At the bottom, I turned south and continued on Highway 15, heading toward El Rosario.

El Rosario, A Sleepy but Impressive Stop
I rolled into El Rosario in the late afternoon. First impressions? Pretty cool little place. It had a relaxed, lived-in feel, especially compared to the hustle of towns like El Salto or San Carlos. Clean streets, slower pace, locals just going about their day.

Checked into a really nice hotel, Hotel Yauco, for thirty-six dollars. Just as I was settling in, I heard the cathedral bells ringing. I had to check it out.

When I got there, I saw the ropes hanging down from the bell tower. No automated system—just real people pulling real ropes to ring the bells. Something about that felt grounded and good. There was even a castle-like tower that looked like it belonged in a fairytale. I joked to myself about Rapunzel letting her hair down, even though it’s a church, not a prison.

All kidding aside, the cathedral itself was impressive for its size. A mass was going on. I grabbed a few photos, took in the atmosphere, then wandered a bit more. Found out they’re also restoring another old cathedral in town.

Later I found a park with a lake and a suspension bridge that led to an island. There was even a zip line stretching across the water. Looks like it’s been out of commission for a while, but still a funky little corner of the town.

After walking the town, I grabbed something quick to eat—nothing fancy—and called it an early night.

Tomorrow, A Short Ride to San Blas?
Might just take an easy day and head to San Blas. Maybe I keep it short, maybe not. Depends on how the morning feels. All I know is I am heading south.

and no road pics today.

But here is a bit of a pic dump:

APOTA Day-12 – El Rosario to San Blas
 

Palm Trees, Pit Stops, and a Saturday Night Crowd

Packed up, fueled up, and headed out of El Rosario toward San Blas. Got a reasonably early start and took the toll-free highways 15, 72, and 54. It was one of those days where you just enjoy the ride, the countryside, and the smells of the trees and plants as everything starts to shift. As I moved south, the landscape got greener, maybe even a little tropical. Not sure if it’s technically tropical yet, but it felt like it. Seeing palm trees again was a good sign.

It was hot today, but really only when stopped or riding slow in direct sun. Once moving, there was a perfect breeze that made for fantastic riding conditions. Loved that.

The Unexpected and Fun Pit Stop in Reynosa
While riding the other day, I had the idea to mount my phone somewhere so I could snap road photos while riding. Nothing fancy, just something to make it easier to grab quick shots. Problem was, I needed a drill, or at least someone with one.

Enter Reynosa, and two guys named Pedro and Enrique.

I stopped at a small shop. Not modern, kind of a mix between a tire repair place, a junk pile, and a siesta hangout. Between my terrible Spanish, their terrible English, Google Translate, and a whole lot of gestures, I managed to explain what I needed. They got it right away.

Enrique jumped on a bicycle and rode off looking for a drill. Pedro started digging around for bits, and we began prepping. Enrique came back a few minutes later with a drill, but the chuck wouldn’t grip the small bit we needed. After more chatter, he took off again. Meanwhile, Pedro and I kept tinkering with what we had until he suddenly remembered another drill he had stashed somewhere.

He brought it out, and we were in business. A few minutes later, the hole was drilled, the mount was in place, and the job was done. They refused to take any money. Just a handshake and “buen viaje.” Eventually I managed to press a little cash on them, took a couple of pictures, and rolled on. Moments like that are why I love riding in Mexico. The people are something else.

Rolling Into San Blas
The rest of the ride was smooth. I stopped a couple of times to take in the scenery and eventually rolled into San Blas in the afternoon. A couple of hotels were full, which had me mildly concerned, but one of them pointed me toward Hotel Familia.

It turned out to be a great spot. Family-run, with a nice restaurant out front and secure parking out back. They gave me a garage remote for the private lot behind the building, probably enough room for eight or ten cars. I asked if taking up a car spot with the bike was okay, and they immediately offered a better idea — park on the cement pad in the garden where they grow plants. They even suggested putting a cover on it so it wouldn’t get covered in “plant juice” overnight.

Very safe, very welcoming. Room was 850 pesos.

I took a photo with the owner standing next to the bike, threw on the cover, changed into town-exploring clothes, and went for a walk.

Lots of Motorbikes and a Saturday Night Crowd
San Blas was alive. Crowds everywhere, Saturday night energy. I didn’t make it down to the beach, but I explored the waterfront, the marina, and wandered through town. Not a ton to see, but it’s a well-known birdwatching destination.

What stood out the most? Motorbikes. It felt like I had suddenly been dropped into Southeast Asia. Bikes everywhere — on every corner, cutting through traffic, weaving between cars and pedestrians. You had to stay alert just to cross the street. Seemed like an odd thing to see in a town this size, but clearly it’s how the locals get around.

In the main plaza, they were setting up a huge stage. By 8 PM, it was in full swing. I grabbed a spot at one of the plaza restaurants and had some fantastic enchiladas while watching the crowd build. Turned out to be a whole lot of loud music, speeches, and more speeches. After an hour of waiting for something to actually happen, I gave up and wandered back to the hotel.

From my room, I could still hear the party rolling well past midnight. Big crowd, big volume, big night in San Blas.

Oh Yeah, The Phone Mount — Right Idea, Bad Workability
That phone mount we installed? Good idea in theory. In practice, not great. The vibration was bad enough to make most of the pictures unusable. I might salvage something from it, but it’s not the solution I hoped for.

I’ve got a GoPro too, but it brings its own issues. Still figuring all of that out. Not critical, just something I’ll keep messing with when time allows.

Tomorrow – Southbound With as Much Coastal as Possible
Tomorrow I head south again. Maybe Bucerías. Maybe Puerto Vallarta. Maybe somewhere else entirely. I’ll figure it out in the morning.

San Blas just felt like the kind of stop I needed
because too much fun is .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

Here is a slideshow of the day..

APOTA Day-13 San Blas to Punta de Mita:
 

Slow Miles, Surf Vibes, and Tree Tunnels

Pretty laid-back day. I didn’t cover many miles, but it still took some time. Just a 90-mile cruise down to Punta de Mita. Not much in the way of distance, but it was a scenic one.

The Ride – Coastal Views and Tree Tunnels
The road south had some beautiful stretches. It weaved in and out of coastal sections where I could catch glimpses of the Pacific, then ducked into dense, shaded corridors where the trees formed a tunnel overhead. The ocean was never far, and everything felt greener, thicker, and more tropical the farther I went.

The flip side? The road was rough in a few sections. Lots of topes, lots of tiny towns, and plenty of resort areas where the traffic slows to a crawl. It was Sunday, and nearly every town had something going on. In two of them, the main road was completely shut down. One seemed to be hosting a horse event, the other a full festival.

Even with the slow pace, it was one of those days that felt easy. No rush, no real agenda, just rolling along and seeing what the day offered. I didn’t know where I’d end up, but when I got to Punta de Mita, it felt like the right place to stop.

Punta de Mita – Luxury Meets Surf Culture
This place is interesting. It’s a beach town split right down the middle. On one side, you’ve got high-end real estate offices, boutique stores, and condo listings that start around two hundred seventy-five thousand and climb into the millions. On the other side, you’ve got surfers walking barefoot, carrying boards and six-packs of beer, looking like they’re here for sun and swells.

It’s a strange mix. Some people are dressed to impress, straight out of a resort catalog, while others look like they live out of their van.

I walked around for a bit, checked out the beach and the surf crowd, and wandered out onto the lighthouse rock jetty. Nice place, but I didn’t feel the need to dig in too deep. It’s polished, a little upscale for this kind of trip, but made for a good place to call it early.

Grabbed a fantastic chicken quesadillas at El Coral. Simple but excellent. Hit the spot after a day of slow riding.

Tomorrow – Heading Inland?
Not sure what the plan is yet. I think it’s time to leave the coast and head inland toward Guadalajara, but I’ll spend some time with the maps tonight and figure it out from there.

Apota Day-14 : Punta de Mita to Mascota
 

Best Laid Plans of Mice and...
The plan was to see some folks in the Puerto Vallarta area, but the morning just got away from me. Spent too much time on the phone, and then tinkering with the bike (loose bolt issue, must be the smooth streets), and before I knew it, half the day was gone.
I really appreciate the generosity of the people that asked I visit, but when I thought about spending the whole day in PV versus getting back on the road, I realized this trip is more about exploring real, authentic Mexico than hanging around hustling, bustling resort towns where everything is new, shiny, and full of tourists. Someplace I’d fly into to enjoy, maybe.

So, around noon, I made the call, I’ll catch up with everyone another time. Time to hit the road.
And yes, I made one last Walmart stop in Bucerías before leaving town.

The Ride, Twisties, Potholes, and Pure Fun
Once I got going, and found the road to Mascota it was fantastic. Twists, curves, and beautiful mountain countryside.
The first stretch was a bit slow, with lots of small towns and stop-and-go traffic, but once I got out into the country, it turned into one of the most fun roads yet.
The pavement wasn’t perfect, plenty of potholes meant you couldn’t get too carried away with the speed. You’re dodging potholes mid-curve, which definitely keeps things interesting. But the scenery, the flow of the road, and the ride itself? Beyond belief. Don’t even think I saw a rock on the road.

Rolling Into Mascota, Authentic, Historic, and Just Cool
First stop in Mascota was AutoZone, needed a couple of nuts and washers to secure something on the bike that had loosened up. Quick fix, no problem.
Then I found the coolest little hotel, the Hotel La Casona De La Esmerelda, very old-school, full of character, with a beautiful courtyard, open grassy area, and secure parking inside the yard.

And then she hands me the key.
When she handed it to me, I couldn’t believe it, one of those massive old keys, and the most archaic locking mechanism I’ve seen in ages. Might have to do a separate post just about this hotel because it’s got so much personality. There are better options in town I’m sure, but this was just so cool.

Exploring Mascota, A Hidden Gem
Mascota is one of those places that feels untouched in all the right ways. Historic, funky, and full of interesting little spots.
All over the centro of town, they have signs pointing to all the local sites, the plaza, the museum, the church, the parks. Makes it easy to just wander and take it all in.
Best sidewalks I’ve seen in Mexico so far, seriously. Most of the town’s sidewalks are in fantastic shape. And downtown, they’ve made the corners handicap-accessible in many areas, which you don’t see everywhere. The streets, on the other hand, are stone-paved, rough, and winding all over the place. Some of them are just wide enough for one car, while others cut at weird angles, it’s a total maze.
I spent some time just walking around, taking it all in. There’s a much stronger sense of history here than I have seen so far, and the town has done a great job preserving its charm.

Simple Food
Didn’t go for anything fancy, just grabbed some street tacos, picked up a few snacks from a small grocery store, and called it a night.

Tomorrow, Guadalajara Bound
Hoping to get an early start in the morning and head toward Guadalajara. So pumped for the ride ahead, this trip is turning out even better than expected.
Far better than expected. Thanks for the push guys.

APOTA Day-15 : Mascota to Talpa de Allende to Cocula
 

Twisty and Hot, the Adventure Continues

Today was another fantastic day. I know you are getting tired of hearing that, but I am just so amazed at Mexico.

Finally got an early start and hit the road while it was still a bit cool out. You guys had mentioned Talpa de Allende, so I did a bit of interweb investigation, and when I checked the map, it wasn’t far off my route. The town looked interesting, and the road looked fun, so I decided to detour and check it out.

And wow, this town was a beehive of activity. You actually knew that as soon as you turned off Highway 70 onto the road to Talpa de Allende, because of all the tour buses going in and out.

Talpa de Allende — Apparently a Pilgrimage Destination
Talpa de Allende was buzzing. Shops, markets with more shops, and a plaza that was absolutely rocking. People, adults, little ponies, kids, nuns, cops directing traffic.

Kiko mentioned something about Peregrinos (pilgrims) traveling to Talpa, which apparently happens a few times a year. Maybe that explained the crowds and the endless rows of market stalls. Vendors were selling everything imaginable for the religious festivals that bring people here. I’m guessing, folks.

The people were so friendly, and the energy of the town was something to see. Definitely worth the detour, and honestly, it would have been a great place to overnight. But since it was still early in the day, I decided to carry on. Cal, you may be here for many days.

The Ride — Fun, Smooth Road, Big Heat
From Talpa, I continued on Highway 70, which turned out to be a great road. Lots of twisties, not a lot of potholes, and just a plain old good road through the mountains.

Hot day, though. Somewhere north of 90°F (33–35°C), and every time I stopped, it was in the shade.
I had planned to stop in Ameca, but it was still reasonably early, so I figured I’d push a little farther. Cocula looked like a good place to stop for the night, just another few minutes down the road.

Well… that is, if you don’t miss the turn.
I somehow managed to overshoot the turn leaving Ameca, which meant taking a bit of a longer way around, but I got there in the end.

Cocula — Another Happening Spot
Found a really nice, modern hotel, the Real Cocula Hotel, for 1100 pesos, but worth it. Got settled in, threw on shorts, a t-shirt, and flip-flops, and went out to explore.

So the Mystery Explosions and a Procession
Just as I left the hotel, I heard loud bangs. Like, really loud. Louder than gunshots. It was one of those moments where you stop and think, “Okay, what exactly is that?”

The bangs were spaced apart. One loud blast, then silence, then another blast. Didn’t sound like fireworks.

As I walked, I started to hear bands playing, and about three blocks later, I found a big procession. A band was leading the way, followed by kids in traditional indigenous costumes dancing, people carrying a statue of Christ on a Cross, pallbearer style, and another band bringing up the rear.
It had the feel of a funeral procession, but I don’t actually know the meaning behind it. Whatever it was, it was incredible to see. Got a video, but I’ll just include pictures here.

Oh, and a guy walking behind randomly putting a cannon down and shooting off a single large bang.

Big Church by the Plaza
From the outside, it’s not the most ornate, but step inside, and it’s a whole different story. Gold everywhere. Around the altar, covering the walls, statues shining. Over the top, extravagant, and amazing to see.

There were even a couple of other big churches in town too, but this one stood out.
And the plaza was very busy, full of energy, lots of shops, and just alive.
Grabbed some tacos from a street vendor. Really good, but forgot to take a picture before devouring them. Heat must’ve got to me.

Tomorrow — Guadalajara?
Still not 100 percent sure if I’m heading into Guadalajara or not. Gonna sleep on it and decide in the morning.

One thing’s for sure — I’m loving this ride.

Parade in Cocula



Here is the Pic Dump

APOTA Day-16
 

Short Ride, but Some Great Intel

Took a short ride today, just over an hour and a half, landing in San Juan Cosalá, south of Guadalajara. Not a long day in the saddle, but today wasn’t about covering distance.

A fellow rider from, Kiko, had reached out and invited me to stop by for a coffee if I was ever in the area. He’s been living and riding here for years and had plenty of insight on riding and living in Mexico, so it was well worth taking the time to meet up, swap stories, and soak up some local knowledge. Always great to hear from someone who has been in a place long enough to really understand it. Plus, he’s just an all-around good soul. I’m appreciative to have met him. Thanks, Kiko.

Ajijic — Expat Central
After a good afternoon of conversation, I made my way over to Ajijic, one of the small towns along Lago de Chapala (Lake Chapala), and found a hotel for the night. By the time I got out to explore, it was already dark, but I still made my way down to the plaza to check out the area. And many surprises—the ornate ironwork all around the plaza, and the “Wall of the Dead” that was different, but so Mexico.

Ajijic has a huge expat community, mostly Canadians and Americans from what I understand. The restaurants seemed to be a near 50/50 mix of locals and expats, which gives the place a different feel than many of the towns I’ve been through. I expected to see a few, but there are a lot of expats here. Definitely a well-established hub for people retiring or relocating to Mexico.

Of course, there was a big church in the plaza, and when I went up to it, the place was absolutely packed—standing room only, and even outside, people were waiting. Then I noticed something interesting: people were moving in one door and out another, emerging with an ash cross on their forehead. That’s when it clicked. Ash Wednesday.

It is incredible to see how deeply spiritual the culture here is. The church was full of locals coming to receive ashes, quietly reflecting as they moved through the ceremony. Even from the outside, you could feel the weight of tradition and belief.

Pilgrims on the Road
Speaking of religious devotion, I also caught sight of some Peregrinos (pilgrims) on the way here. While I was taking a break, five or six people emerged from the scrub brush on the side of the road with backpacks, walking along the highway toward their destination. They stopped briefly to chat with a roadside vendor, then waved and carried on—likely making their way to Talpa de Allende as part of their pilgrimage.

Over-the-Top Good Meal
While wandering around town, I spotted a restaurant flying a Canadian, American, and Mexican flag, which stood out as unique. It had a reader board out front, looked good, so I wandered in.

Inside, I saw a couple of expat ladies eating and asked them how their meal was. They raved about it—the special was pork ribs done roast-style, mashed potatoes, sautéed vegetables—but warned me they thought the kitchen was about to close. They pointed me toward the owner, who was sitting nearby.

Despite speaking very little English, he immediately welcomed me in and made sure I got a meal. And oh man, was it worth it. Huge portions, amazing food, over-the-top good.

The restaurant? El Charro.

So not many miles today, but a ride that led to some great conversations, a deeper look into local culture, and one of the best meals yet.

What did I see the other day? “It’s not about the miles, but the smiles.” Today definitely fit that to a T.

Tomorrow? Haven’t decided yet.

APOTA Day-17 : A Service Stop, a City Ride, and Guadalajara Madness
 

Short mileage day, but packed with experiences. Started off with a ride into Guadalajara, and let me tell you, I could’ve just kept riding all day. The roads into the city were great, the temperature was perfect, but I had business to take care of. First stop, KTM Guadalajara. Another great Kiko suggestion.

A Really Fun Dealership Experience, Really, I’m Not Kidding
Originally, I just planned to grab an oil filter and maybe check for brake pads. Mexico is brutal on brakes, with all the stop signs, topes, and sudden slowdowns. But once I started chatting with Arturo, the service manager, things escalated quickly.

Between his minimal English and my butchered Spanish, we somehow made it work. He was incredibly helpful, and when I asked if they could do a service, he immediately said yes. That led to checking a couple of parameters on the bike, diagnosing a rear brake switch warning, and even pulling up the full service history and recall records.

And then came the coolest part.
When it was time to bring the bike in, Arturo pointed to the front doors of the dealership and said, “Up the ramp.”
Wait, what?
Yep, ride the bike up the showroom ramp, through the front doors, across the dealership floor, and right up to his desk. No back-alley service bay here. Straight through the fancy entrance.

From there, the mechanic came up to check the bike, and the first thing he asked?
Would I like them to wash it?
Lo siento, amigo. Yes, please.

And just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, they lowered the bike into the shop via a glass elevator. That’s right. This dealership has a literal bike elevator taking motorcycles into the service area below.

Service took a little longer than expected. Arturo said two hours, it ended up being three-plus, but they were thorough, professional, and friendly as hell. They were also super excited that I was from Canada.

While waiting, I grabbed a coffee next door, caught up on messages with their great WiFi, and just bummed around the store.

Oh, and they have the tires I need, but I only found that out as I was paying the bill, which was more than acceptable. I told Arturo I’d think on it. Might make sense to bite the bullet and put them on here.

Navigating Guadalajara, Mayhem on Two Wheels
Leaving KTM, I had one mission, get to my hotel.
Sounds easy, right?
It was ten miles away but took an hour. Time of day didn’t help. Five o’clock.

Guadalajara traffic is big city, absolute madness. Bumper to bumper, aggressive, unpredictable. If there’s an open spot, someone’s taking it. Fast.

And just to make it even more interesting, my GPS shut down.
So I winged it, dodging through thick traffic, following whatever vague sense of direction I had left. Somehow, by luck and pure determination, I managed to roll up to my stop for the night.

Real Maestranza Hotel, Solid Call
Big thanks to Pete_Tallahassee on the forum for this suggestion. Fantastic hotel. Great fun staff, modern, secure underground parking, and right in the heart of Centro.

Once I got checked in, I wandered the streets a bit, but the real priority? Food.

Found a barbecue pollo joint and grabbed a half grilled chicken, potato salad, regular salad, and more. Exactly what I needed after the chaos of city traffic. Wandered around a bit more, took in the energy of downtown Guadalajara, then called it a night.

Tomorrow, getting out and seeing what Mexico’s second largest city has to offer.

Notes on a Solo Ride
I have sailed a bit single-handed in the Caribbean, navigating open water alone, making every decision solo. But this, this is a whole different experience.

Riding solo across Mexico forces you to be patient and think things through, which is much like sailing. No backup, no one to double-check a decision or call you out before you do something dumb.

If you screw up alone in the middle of nowhere and have an incident or worse, you get hurt. Sure, you’ll probably get taken to help, or jail. But then what? This isn’t Kansas or Canada, Dorothy. Who’s looking after the bike? Where does it end up? And is it even intact when you get back to it?

Not saying you should obsess over this stuff, but it’s definitely been a great teacher in staying calm, thinking everything through.

And then, of course, still managing to do some really stupid shit anyways.

Video and Pics Guadalajara

APOTA Day-18 : Walking Guadalajara
 

A Brief Skim of the History and Culture

Didn’t even fire up the bike today. Just a full day of exploring Guadalajara on foot. The most I did with the bike was head down to the parkade, check it over, grab my walking shoes, and hit the streets. And let me tell you, one day here is nowhere near enough.

I walked over six miles, saw more cathedrals, museums, murals, street art, plazas, and cultural sites than I could possibly post pictures of. Everywhere you turn, there’s something to see.

The Cathedrals, Each One Unique
First stop was Catedral Basilica de la Asuncion de Maria Santisima, where I joined a walking tour of the area. The sheer scale of these places is mind-blowing. The architecture, the details, the centuries of history built into every wall and column.

Part of that tour included the Governor’s Mansion and State of Jalisco Government Building, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the day. The tour was in English, and it was beyond fantastic. Inside, the ceilings are covered in murals so massive and detailed they don’t even seem real.

The artist, José Clemente Orozco, often called the Michelangelo of Mexico, created these enormous sweeping frescos full of optical illusions and intricate details. The sheer scale of them is incredible. Just standing there, looking up, you feel like you’re inside a masterpiece. I learned more about Mexican history in that tour to intrigue me to no end.

Then I visited at least one or two more cathedrals. While they weren’t as big, each had something unique. One near my hotel was packed with statues. Three-foot-high saints lined the altar and side walls. It was overwhelming in the best way. Every time I think I’ve seen the most impressive church, another one comes along that completely changes the game.

The Uni Art Museum, A Wild Ride Through Mexican Culture
Across from the university, I found the Museo de las Artes de la Universidad de Guadalajara, an art museum that completely surprised me. It was filled with pieces from local artists depicting every aspect of Mexican life, wrestling, burlesque, craftsmanship, taxis, street food.

It wasn’t just your standard paintings-on-the-wall type of place. This was interactive, raw, and full of life. I could have spent the whole day just taking it all in.

Around the back of the museum, I wandered into another plaza with yet another stunning cathedral, this one showcasing wild Neo-Gothic architecture. That’s how it was described. Every turn in this city seems to reveal something even more spectacular than the last.

Ralph’s Quesadillas and the Mystery Drink
After all that walking, I needed a break. Stumbled onto a little restaurant called El Rogers Quesadillas. Absolutely unreal food. Just over-the-top good.

I wanted to order a Topo Chico (mineral water), but they didn’t have it, so I tried an agua fresca, which should translate to fresh water. What I got was a sealed, cloudy bottle with tiny seeds floating in it. No idea what it was, but my logic was simple. If thousands of locals drink it and don’t die, I should be fine.

Took a sip. Lemony, maybe a bit of lime, definitely refreshing. Still not sure what it was, but it was good.

Edit: I have since been informed the drink is a Tejuino. Tejuino is a cold fermented beverage made from corn and popularly consumed in the Mexican states of Jalisco, Colima, Nayarit, and Oaxaca. Tejuino is usually made from corn dough.

Underground Tunnels of Guadalajara
Another stop of the day: Museo de Sitio de El Puente de las Damas, which takes you into a small section of the underground tunnels that run beneath Guadalajara.

The tour was in Spanish, so I missed a lot of the spoken history, but the museum had infographics and displays that helped me piece things together. These tunnels were rumored for years but only discovered when excavation work uncovered them. They were used by Christian fighters to move in secret between cathedrals, hidden beneath the city.

Absolutely fascinating, and you can’t help but wonder how many more lie undiscovered beneath the streets. You can even see the pipes that still run under the streets today.

A City With So Much to See
Even after walking all day, I barely scratched the surface. At one point, I ended up in Colonia Americana. Very modern, full of fast-food chains, restaurants, and endless shopping options. A completely different vibe from the historic centro, but still a great area to explore.

There’s no end to this place. I could easily spend weeks here and still not see it all.

By the time I got back to the hotel, I was exhausted, overwhelmed in the best way, and already thinking about what I’d missed.

Oh, did I mention street art? Lots of street art all over the place. Even some of the graffiti was tasteful and art-like. And just the buildings, and… and…

Tomorrow, More Guadalajara? Or Back on the Road?
Not sure what’s next. Maybe another day in this amazing city, or maybe it’s time to get moving again. I’ll decide in the morning.

Slideshow:

APOTA Day-19 : Guadalajara, Tires and a Miracle
 

Still in Guadalajara. As much as I’d love to keep exploring, I decided to deal with something that had been nagging at me — tires. Something I should have just done before I left, but I didn’t. So, I gave Arturo at KTM Eurobike a call and set up an appointment.

As I mentioned before, I was surprised they had a solid option in stock. My current tires were Z-rated street tires, likely the originals from when the bike was new. So yeah, eight years old. Not completely shot, but not much life left either. I knew I’d have to deal with tires sooner or later, and I wanted something that would last the rest of the trip.

They had Dunlop TrailMax Missions. Checked the reviews, seemed like a good choice. A long-lasting tire that’s OK on pavement and still capable in sand or gravel if needed. The only real downside, brutally stiff sidewalls, kind of like a Heidenau K60, meaning if I ever had to change one on the side of the road, good luck.

I do carry a tire repair kit and compressor, so hopefully, that’s all I’ll ever need.

Blah blah blah about tires. Long story short — I booked it in, and have new tires.

Got down to KTM early and was waiting for them to open, and once again, they were fantastic. Super welcoming, making sure I was comfortable, just a great shop all around. The tire swap took about three hours, but they took their time and did it right.

And while I was waiting, Kiko sent me a message. He was up for a ride. Perfect. Once the bike was ready, I shot him a message.

Riding with Kiko
I left KTM and met him near Jocotepec at the junction by the lake. We wasted no time and hit the road, and it was fantastic. Fun roads, great pace, and damn, Kiko doesn’t mess around — he zips right along.

We rode down to La Manzanilla de la Paz, where Kiko had to drop off a package. Turns out he knows a lot of folks in town, so we took a little walking tour.

He showed me The Miracle of La Manzanilla, an incredible local legend. The story goes like this:
• A saintly woman taught poor children on a large flat rock because they couldn’t afford school.
• After she passed, lightning struck the rock and split it in half.
• Over time, the rock fused back together on its own, and an image of the Virgin Mary appeared on it.
• Experts investigated and officially declared it a miracle.

Much more to the story. I’m not really doing it justice. But hope you get the gist.

There’s a huge cathedral in town, but the actual rock where the event happened has its own separate building, where people come to pray, leave trinkets, clothing, pictures, and handwritten notes asking for blessings. Pretty amazing to see and hear the full story.

Ending the Day in Mazamitla
From La Manzanilla, we carried on riding to Mazamitla, a really cool little mountain town.

After parking the bikes, Kiko, ever the fantastic Mexico tour guide, helped me find a perfect hotel right in the heart of downtown. Affordable — 750 pesos — with underground parking and security cameras. Couldn’t ask for better.

Then Kiko gave me the full tour of town, showing me all the best spots and… snakes. Yes, there were people with snakes. Turns out a local breeder was showing off their snakes, just spreading the word about snakes in the area. Go figure.

The town was very busy, and like a tourist spot, it has shop after shop where you can buy everything from a coffee to a transistor radio to a poncho.

Really great to ride together and spend the day hanging out though. Kiko, you are a great soul.

Wrapping Up the Day
After Kiko took off, I wandered the town, snapped some pictures, and grabbed some unreal Chile Rellenos at the Mercado — Kiko’s recommendation, of course. By the time I got back to the hotel, I was done. Long day, a lot going on, and I just needed to chill.

Tomorrow? We’ll See Where the Road Leads
Yes, need to figure out where next. Thinking about heading back toward the Pacific, winding through the mountains. The route looks really fun.

And honestly, I’d really like to just get in a few solid hours of riding. I do love the riding part too.
I am loving all of this gig so far .. AllPartOfTheAdventure

APOTA Day-20 : Mazamitla to San Juan de Alima
 

Twisties, Sugar Cane, Bananas and the Pacific

Really happy with the day. Got some riding in, all old highways, no toll roads. Just the kind of day I wanted.

The Ride
Rode Highway 110, 54, and finally hit Highway 200 to head down the coast. And let me tell you, twisties. Lots and lots of twisties. Speed up, slow down, dodge a slow-moving truck, get on the brakes for topes. Seriously, so many topes.

The roads weren’t in terrible shape, but it was a workout type ride. Sometimes cruising under the new highway, weaving through little funky towns, getting cut off in those funky little towns, and the ever-present hawkers by the topes in the funky little towns, and running through a lot of sugar cane fields.

At one point, I rolled up on what had been a roadside fire on the mountainside. Looked like a controlled roadside burn, but apparently, someone forgot to tell the telephone pole. It had burned right through at the base and was just dangling from the wires, hovering over the road like a medieval jousting hazard. If you weren’t paying attention, that thing would’ve clocked you right in the head. Bizarre scene. I’ll dig out a picture.

Oh, and the new tires? They got a workout today. More aggressive tread, so yeah, a bit vibier than the street tires, but I liked them. They felt solid, no surprises, and as Cal indicated, they should last the rest of the trip and the next one or two.

Note: Tried using the GoPro today. Not a big fan. It’s a hassle, but I might have snagged some decent footage. At the very least, I’ll grab some still shots. It is a yet-to-be-determined accessory at this point.

A Place to Stop
Was going to stop in Tecomán but rolled in early, and it felt too big, too bustling. I was craving the ocean, so I pushed on toward Highway 200 and spied San Juan de Alima on the map. A tiny town with pretty much nothing in it except for seven hotels, a couple of roadside stands, and a huge, wide-open beach.

Don’t get me wrong. I really liked Guadalajara and the surrounding towns. So much history, so much to see. But they were all crowded, touristy, and full of hustle and bustle. That can be fine sometimes, but the vibe I was looking for, maybe San Juan de Alima.

The Hotel, Beach and Good Food
And correct that was. San Juan de Alima is very small and laid back and almost kind of nonexistent if you didn’t want to stop there. In fact, it might even be a tad too chill. Still not sure why all the hotels and accommodation. Maybe this was a slow weekend.

Checked in by 4 PM, and took a long beach walk. Hardly anyone out there except for what seemed mostly some local families. Just perfect.

Wrapped up the day with a fresh fish dinner at a funky little restaurant which is part of the hotel, then called it an evening.

Great day. Got in exactly what I wanted. Just me, the bike, and the road, all enough to keep it interesting.

Plans
Tomorrow, more of Highway 200.



Slideshow:

APOTA Day-21 : Well I Am Three Weeks In
 

Coastal Road, Heat, and a Lesson in Stopping Early

Three weeks on the road, folks. When I started this ride, I figured I’d be in Zihuatanejo in about ten plus days. Yeah, twice as long to get here. No regrets, and actually I could have taken longer.

The Ride — Endless Twisties on this Coastal Treat
Left San Juan de Alima and took Highway 200 all the way down to Lázaro Cárdenas. Maybe 120 to 130 miles, but solid, non-stop twisties, with the odd straight stretch thrown in. This stretch of road was pure fun. It would open up to an ocean view, then right back into the curves. Over and over, it was spectacular.

It was hot today, 32°C or 90°F. Not unbearable, but enough that you felt it when you stopped. Not a ton of traffic, but the stuff that was out there was… interesting. A few local trucks that looked like they were held together with zip ties and prayers, then random cows just chilling in the road, and some weird creatures that darted across the pavement faster than I could process. No clue what they were. Hopefully, I’ll figure that out later.

Should’ve / Could’ve Stopped but Didn’t
Came through Caleta de Campos just before noon. That would’ve been the perfect place to stop. Small town, quiet, right on the beach. It had the right vibe.

But nope, I figured I’d push on to Lázaro Cárdenas, thinking, “Ah, it’s just another hour, what’s the harm?”

Lázaro Cárdenas — Wrong Call
Kind of a little mistake. I thought Tecomán was too big and busy. Well, Lázaro Cárdenas is a large industrial port city. Big, busy, fast, dirty, and jammed with endless trucks. Should’ve stayed in the smaller town near the beach, where it was laid back. But nope, I kept going.

Once I got here and settled into a hotel room, I went looking for the malecón, figuring there’d at least be a decent waterfront to check out. Found a sign for Puerto Lázaro Cárdenas, stopped for a picture… then a security guard came over and told me I couldn’t be there.

I tried another route. No luck. Then, in my infinite wisdom, I found another way in, only to be greeted by yet another security guard. He explained that the malecón was “cerrado” (closed). I looked around. There were people jogging, walking, and cars parked everywhere. It didn’t seem closed.

I asked when it would be open. He said, “Mañana.” So, I don’t know if it was closed for real or just closed for me, but either way, that was that.

It did look so interesting and a good place to hang.

Observations on the Coast
Even though I didn’t stop much today, I noticed something about the people here. They’re still friendly, still helpful, but not in the same way as in tourist-heavy areas. Here, it’s different. People are busy, going about their lives, not waiting for tourists to roll through. Not unfriendly, just less engaged.

I stopped on the side of the road at one point, and a guy who had already passed me actually turned around and came back just to make sure I was okay. That’s Mexico. People are generally helpful. But at the same time, it’s clear this part of the coast isn’t built around foreign tourism in the same way as a lot of the spots I have been.

Tomorrow — Getting to Zihuat
Tomorrow, I’ll ride the last 60 miles to Zihuatanejo. Shouldn’t take long. Time to finally roll into the beach town that’s been stuck in my head for years. I will see if I can finally track down Andy and Red.

And you know, for a place that was just a fictional movie spot, I think it was filmed in the USVI, I actually get why someone would say, “If I ever escape, I’m going to that beach in Mexico.”

It just has the real hang-out-with-no-cares, in-a-hut-on-the-beach feeling.