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The Adventure Begins... Husqvarna TE310 bike review
Here is a review of the Husqvarna TE310 dual sport bike. I'm liking it.
See Video |
The Adventure Begins... Adventure Motorcycle Review
Here is a video reviewing big adventure motorcycles. Pity that they left out the Suzuki DR650... they don't know what they are missing.
See Video |
The Adventure Begins... Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay...Doors, Windows and ...
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I took a little trip across the Rio de la Plata to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Uruguay is a country in the southeastern part of South America. It is home to about 3.3 million people, of whom 1.8 million live in the capital Montevideo. An estimated 88% of the population are of European descent. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wia8gy4Q_u...guay+-+252.jpg Colonia (formerly the Portuguese Colónia do Sacramento) is a city in southwestern Uruguay, by the Río de la Plata, facing Buenos Aires, Argentina. It is the oldest town in Uruguay and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has a population of around 22,000. It has an interesting history. Founded in 1680 by Portugal as Colónia do Sacramento, the colony was later disputed by the Spanish who settled on the opposite bank of the river at Buenos Aires. The colony was conquered by José de Garro in 1680, but returned to Portugal the next year. It was conquered again by the Spanish in March 1705 after a siege of five months, but given back in the Treaty of Utrecht. Another attack during the Spanish-Portuguese War, 1735-1737, failed. It kept changing hands from crown to crown due to treaties such as the Treaty of Madrid in 1750 and the Treaty of San Ildefonso in 1777, until it remained with the Spanish. It then transferred to Portuguese control again, being later incorporated in Brazil after 1816, when the entire Banda Oriental (Uruguay) was seized by the government of the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and the Algarves and renamed the Cisplatina province. Now part of the independent country of Uruguay, Colonia del Sacramento has expanded to the north and east, but the original Barrio Histórico (historic quarter) retains its irregular, terrain-fitting street plan built by the Portuguese, contrasting with the wider, orthogonal calles in the newer Spanish area. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9obPhK16Tv...guay+-+314.jpg The town has some colonial style buildings like the municipal hall. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ziN5_FVeAa...guay+-+051.jpg And the cathedral http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sQABbZWD-N...guay+-+053.jpg With a rather simple interior. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LidvR9m-wC...guay+-+014.jpg It has a waterfront that runs along the Rio de la Plata. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FukXcNu3PO...guay+-+017.jpg But, what I really enjoyed about this town was walking around the old town and viewing the doors, windows and passageways... they are simply beautiful. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Grx5G14-nq...guay+-+300.jpg Many of the doorways were quite ornate. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OeNcbNJUjE...guay+-+117.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BFJpLlUM-R...guay+-+125.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6obeKuscic...guay+-+164.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2TXyNITJ69...guay+-+206.jpg And the windows, as beautiful to look at, as to look out. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gVC3ISpb6F...guay+-+212.jpg http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pBZI7xb_u7...guay+-+222.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B1XnpTpxhq...guay+-+032.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g9D-SLw0F3...guay+-+071.jpg And the cobblestone passageways were quite inviting. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QWU62m_0bC...guay+-+074.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xFIl4rRROb...guay+-+084.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-owWRHWeIpD...guay+-+096.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1sUC-l-N_...guay+-+173.jpg This little corner garden hid a secret. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oSfRwVLeHc...guay+-+185.jpg A little nook for San Francisco. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UezzmNdDI8...guay+-+284.jpg I walked down by the waterfront. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F1cDnebWhW...guay+-+254.jpg And spotted these two fishermen enjoying the afternoon. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yflfP5AahH...guay+-+278.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AqpdO-dAle...guay+-+279.jpg The town seemed to have an appreciation for old cars. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cpfq1OLc8Y...guay+-+309.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fVV7JuZCD3...guay+-+038.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zkZc_Kuqor...guay+-+149.jpg http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rd_hF4F5xj...guay+-+290.jpg And a few old motorcycles as well. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LcAcxwK2qQ...guay+-+068.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K--iP2zNAF...guay+-+036.jpg Little details http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iNapQcsUux...guay+-+090.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1LI238UZnW...guay+-+296.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bY_fe4u-oH...guay+-+303.jpg http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b5u4Nu04U1...guay+-+286.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vroSjX7l3Z...guay+-+245.jpg |
The Adventure Begins... Buenos Aires, Argentina...In Summary
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For me, Buenos Aires was truly a breath of fresh air. Some travelers do not really enjoy big cities. But for me, big cities are often a chance to unwind, clean up a bit, eat good food, visit museums, check out a show and soak up some culture. Since much of my time traveling around Argentina and specifically Patagonia was spent exploring outdoor activities and small towns, I was ready for a big city. Buenos Aires did not disappoint. A little background... Buenos Aires is the capital and largest city of Argentina, and the second-largest metropolitan area in South America, after Greater Sao Paulo. It is located on the western shore of the estuary of the Río de la Plata, on the southeastern coast of the South American continent. People from Buenos Aires are referred to as porteños (people of the port). Buenos Aires is a top tourist destination, and is known for its European style architecture and rich cultural life, with the highest concentration of theatres in the world. My adventure in BA started with exploration of the various neighborhoods. I visited the neighborhood of Belgrano and the Barrio Chino (Chinatown). I caught a glimpse of the street culture admiring the graffiti and checking out the market of San Telmo. A highlight was definitely visiting the neighborhood of La Boca, impersonating a local and watching a Boca Juniors football game. The nightlife scene in BA kicked off on Monday and the percussion group La Bomba attracted a lively crowd. A walking tour of the downtown area provided me a better understanding of some of the historical elements of the government of Argentina. While the museums proved to be world class. I really enjoyed the Bellas Artes and MALBA museums. The Cemetery of Recoleta had some amazingly photogenic mausoleums. I found some little treasures in the upscale neighborhood of Palermo. And strangely enough it was in the same neighborhood of Palermo where I had my first encounter with a pickpocket. I was happy to score some free tickets to a recital at the Teatro Colon, but the real treat was simply sitting in and marveling at the wonderful architecture of the space. I soaked up some of the gaucho culture at the Feria de Mataderos. And relaxed under the frescos and between the aisles in the amazing theatre turned book store El Ateneo. Like many big cities, there is nothing subtle about Buenos Aires. Everything is in your face and turned on around the clock. Nothing exemplifies this more than the Milonga dance halls and Tango. Ahhh... a breath of fresh air... Buenos Aires! For the full story with photos and videos click on this link. |
The Adventure Begins... Rosario
From Buenos Aires I headed north and west to Rosario
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-61JmRhCNzo...ina+-+2032.jpg The countryside was green and flat. The area is considered the bread basket of Argentina and is responsible for much of the agriculture and ranching of the country. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o-oSs6GlbT...ina+-+2016.jpg Rosario is noted for this huge obelisk called the Monumento Nacional de la Bandera. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4-Eehqjbn0...ina+-+2014.jpg It depicts the struggle for independence. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2ZKwNvqyUp...ina+-+2021.jpg And the city claims fame to the building in which Ernesto "Che" Guevara was born. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2176ol4zx2...ina+-+2025.jpg Renowned architect Alejandro Bustillo designed the apartment building at Entre Ríos 480 where, in 1928, Ernesto Guevara Lynch and Celia de la Serna resided after the birth of their son Ernesto Guevara de la Serna, popularly known as El Che. |
The Adventure Begins... Cordoba
My next stop was the town of Cordoba.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w3A_KGQ0bF...ina+-+2035.jpg Córdoba is a city located near the geographical center of Argentina, in the foothills of the Sierras Chicas on the Suquía River, about 700 km (435 mi) northwest of Buenos Aires. It is the capital of Córdoba Province. Córdoba is the second-largest city in Argentina after the federal capital Buenos Aires, with about 1.3 million inhabitants. The city was founded on 6 July 1573 by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera, who named it after Córdoba, Spain. It was one of the first Spanish colonial capitals of the region that is now Argentina (the older city was Santiago del Estero, founded in 1553). The Universidad Nacional de Córdoba is the oldest university in Argentina. It was founded in 1613 by the Jesuit Order. As the location of the first university, Córdoba has earned the nickname La Docta (The Learned one). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pIjQ1wxuLs...ina+-+2045.jpg The first thing I did in Cordoba was to find something to eat. I found a cafe just off the central plaza and had a tasty meal consisting of an empanada and locro. Locro is a stew with pork, corn, beans and vegetables. It is often eaten on special occasions. This special occasion was that I was hungry. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mZl9fSOPp2...ina+-+2042.jpg The town center had a number of colonial style buildings like the municipal hall. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LyDUTXehtq...ina+-+2043.jpg This old church turned into an information office. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0I8vmTAnFf...ina+-+2047.jpg Statues http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ucTn5KgWPS...ina+-+2049.jpg The cathedral Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Auvp9bC5Jn...ina+-+2039.jpg It was brilliantly illuminated at night. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jjpsPvjp61...ina+-+2052.jpg It had these amazing iron doorways with the figures of Peter and Paul. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kPZLzx9M6Y...ina+-+2054.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FkFrfMiVir...ina+-+2062.jpg The next day I walked around the University Nacional de Cordoba which was founded by the Jesuits. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RBazsO50n2...ina+-+2065.jpg I came across this statue of the founder of Cordoba, Jeronimo Luis de Cabrera. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6LsklPvf46...ina+-+2073.jpg There was this interesting space called the Museo de la Memoria which pays tribute to the atrocities of the Dirty War. This former detention and torture facility displayed names of the "disappeared". http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QsqDDHigCS...ina+-+2072.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iHUbTcMMEp...ina+-+2075.jpg There was all kinds of street art in the city http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B_UT3Pi6sb...ina+-+2076.jpg Around the Paseo del Buen Pastor there were these street sculptures. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m0VkK2Ka4R...ina+-+2079.jpg A condor http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-homTyNmAN3...ina+-+2080.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j2uPlOXekm...ina+-+2082.jpg A snake or dragon http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tQoUX7tVDk...ina+-+2097.jpg A man and dog http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l_EMTyaqEX...ina+-+2100.jpg A floating woman http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VhqYEUBt0H...ina+-+2101.jpg A colorful dog http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OibnuNXpgn...ina+-+2077.jpg This art piece displayed photos of women whom "disappeared" during the Dirty War. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ciM36g3a6y...ina+-+2087.jpg The Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon was an amazing church made in the neogothic style. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aKfJhwcbQa...ina+-+2095.jpg It had these incredible ornate spires http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xMBmDs98yD...ina+-+2094.jpg and carved columns. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8tHU3uqyzx...ina+-+2102.jpg And I spent a little time at the Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Emilio Caraffa. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--oV86VylYJ...ina+-+2103.jpg http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PG39V5U2pE...ina+-+2104.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qKRgRT-tZm...ina+-+2105.jpg I really enjoyed Cordoba. It reminded me of my hometown of Austin, Texas. It is a university town, had some nice restaurants, friendly people and a cineclub (film club). |
The Adventure Begins... Wine and Two Wheels
Next stop... Mendoza
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-paDTf5HOFK...ina+-+2142.jpg Mendoza is the wine producing region of Argentina. Many of the vineyards and wineries are located within a 40km area. One can visit the wineries by organized tour, car or two wheels. And, not necessarily two wheels on a motorcycle. It is completely possible to visit a number of wineries by bicycle...so that's what I did. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cKwY2AIasy...ina+-+2118.jpg A fellow traveler that I met named Randy and I rented some bikes from a place called Mr. Hugo's...and off we went. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nyCo7hac4X...ina+-+2120.jpg The first stop was the winery called Museo y Bodega La Rural. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BVYgJByPzL...ina+-+2122.jpg They had museum with a collection of old wine making equipment like these wine sacks. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hch2SNWI_d...ina+-+2123.jpg Wine press, the kind that you jump on top and mash grapes with your bare feet. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GsBkSshr2P...ina+-+2126.jpg Mechanical wine press. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DC5yHeYtBg...ina+-+2119.jpg Wine fermenting barrels. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uLOe_F264-...ina+-+2124.jpg Old cash register. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fSgnbzKYuq...ina+-+2121.jpg And of course there was a wine tasting. This varietal was a Cabernet Sauvignon. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iPrJHSyE9r...ina+-+2141.jpg The second place we visited was a winery called Trapiche. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-44PZF5_zHx...ina+-+2128.jpg Out front they had a small organic vineyard. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GUoxeQU3mi...ina+-+2140.jpg They had a large and modern production facility, but they also had restored this old winery building. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dtEiVdQRpC...ina+-+2130.jpg The original owner had built a private railroad line to facilitate the transportation of wine. Prior to the construction of the railroad, to transport wine by horse and carriage from Mendoza to Buenos Aires would take weeks. With the railroad, they could transport more wine and the journey would only take 24 hours. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vqm8pgZV_z...ina+-+2132.jpg Inside the winery was a receiving area to weigh the grapes. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uSZZSBwQx6...ina+-+2135.jpg There was this amazing rosewood tile floor. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MZNvsPgFOh...ina+-+2137.jpg Oak barrels imported from France and the United States. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sX_9bjeNt_...ina+-+2139.jpg And of course there was a wine tasting of Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and a Malbec Dulce. At this winery we ran into some other travelers that I had met previously in the town of Bariloche. Jeff and Christie from San Diego. Clinton and Laura from Sydney. We all shared in the wine tasting. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QOLGr7I60K...ina+-+2152.jpg The third winery was called Tempus Alba. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iRbZUISqX1...ina+-+2146.jpg It was a fairly new winery that had only been in operation for 6 years. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s9x_fJHIiq...ina+-+2150.jpg They had some of their own vineyards, but also sourced grapes from nearby vineyards to round out their varietals http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZKCReBZwp2...ina+-+2145.jpg We took a break here to enjoy some food and drink. We bought some bottles of Malbec and Syrah. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KLfNYTdbhI...ina+-+2127.jpg As the daylight lingered we peddled our way back. Fun on two wheels. |
The Adventure Begins... A Ride Along The Andes
From Mendoza I headed South. South? Yes, South.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L2fAjg3jGN...ina+-+2165.jpg It was winter and turning cold in Argentina. I had been on a route fleeing the cold and heading North. But, I had a friend and fellow adventure motorcyclist that I wanted to visit in the town of San Rafael. And that meant that I had to take a short detour and head South. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A8A6EVGj9S...ina+-+2159.jpg As I road South and along the western edge of Argentina to my right were the Andes Mountain range. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dCeG7skrQs...ina+-+2156.jpg Certainly a detour and scenery worth the visit. |
The Adventure Begins... San Rafael... Feels Like Home
San Rafael...feels like home.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6d_Ciaub3k...ina+-+2171.jpg I traveled to San Rafael to visit a friend and fellow adventure motorcyclist named Alejandro whom I had met while traveling from Peru to Chile. Alejandro's family welcomed me with open arms. Upon my arrival I had the chance to meet his mother Rita, his girlfriend Noelia and his cousin's family. Alejandro is a chemical engineer by profession and works at a local university. Rita is a retired teacher. Noelia is an art instructor. And his cousin and wife are both physical education instructors. The kids are just kids, they like to play. The first thing they introduced me to was a nice lunch. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QqtUwmb7wU...ina+-+2179.jpg In the afternoon, Alejandro took me to a place called Valle Grande. It was a beautiful area which contained a lake and river surrounded by a mountain range. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eiynxK5nXx...ina+-+2173.jpg Supposedly in the summer the place is swarming with tourists from all over Argentina. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6CHjMMytwq...ina+-+2175.jpg But, luckily at this time, it was quite and peaceful and simply stunning. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7LC5P6roqE...ina+-+2187.jpg The lake was formed by a dam. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OlQJ2GQ5SS...ina+-+2184.jpg It created a reservoir that was used for boating, fishing and water sports. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v2B-jvQrbn...ina+-+2199.jpg And was pretty nice to just stare at and take in it's beauty. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fnrPVgKsxn...ina+-+2210.jpg The next day Alejandro had to work. So Rita took me on a little tour of the town. The first stop was a winery call Bodega Valintin Bianchi. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bKqX62xSYZ...ina+-+2200.jpg They had a very nicely laid out display of their varietals. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gLhJECutuT...ina+-+2201.jpg They are probably most famous for producing sparkling wine (champagne). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8kuf4nHWx1...ina+-+2209.jpg We were taken on a tour of the facilities. I learned that the process for producing champagne is a bit different than the process for producing wine. Essentially, there is a second fermentation which may take place in the bottle, an aging on the lees, riddling, disgorging and dosage. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1PLgQzRJ3s...ina+-+2202.jpg Rita had visited the winery previously. She knew about a special cellar in which the Bianchi family kept a private collection of wines and champagnes. She asked the guide if we could view cellar and as a favor the guide allowed us to view it. The cellar was dark, circular and filled wall to wall with the family's finest collection of wines. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OCEqaJLv5C...ina+-+2205.jpg This table was built on commission by the founder Valentin Bianchi. The table has six legs representing the six children of the family. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ePv5uOBhsn...ina+-+2213.jpg At the end of the tour we had the chance to taste some of the champagne. I tasted a little bit, but it was still pretty early in the morning to be drinking champagne. So instead I bought the bottle that appears on the left for later consumption. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iip_M_17sH...ina+-+2215.jpg Next, we walked around the town a bit and through the central park. The town converted old dying trees in to pieces of art by carving statues such as this one. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NmUqSR2gv8...ina+-+2217.jpg We passed by this old bank which has been converted into a municipal building. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-np5KKXi1-y...ina+-+2218.jpg And, we visited the university at which Alejandro works. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XJs1CjWoMB...ina+-+2219.jpg Later, Alejandro and I visited this sportsman's club for marksmanship. This club is a recreational club, but also a training center for olympic style marksmanship. This is a friend of Alejandro named Adrian. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jqlI4CMLSm...ina+-+2220.jpg This style of marksmanship requires the use of special air rifles, suits, hats, glasses, gloves and shoes. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CjAfDmW50l...ina+-+2221.jpg The target is 10 meters away and contains concentric circles. The largest circle is only about 2 inches wide. Points range from 1 to 10. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rzq7cWxseq...ina+-+2222.jpg It turns out that when Alejandro was young he was one of the top marksmen in San Rafael and in Argentina. He would compete in olympic style events and according to his friends he won quite a few trophies. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JffF0fcvx6...ina+-+2224.jpg Adrian let me take a shot. The action on these rifles is incredible. To fire the rifle only a gentle touch is needed, similar to the feeling of a feather touching your skin. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_nzAebU0NN...ina+-+2225.jpg My first shot hit the outer ring... 1 point. After I realized how delicate the trigger mechanism was, I took another shot. My second shot hit a 9. Not bad for a first attempt with an olympic rifle. Guns and shooting... it is in my blood as a native Texan. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eyPSl-dT3X...0/100_5514.JPG Over a few days Alejandro and his family showed me incredible hospitality. They provided me a bed on which to rest, filled me with food, took me to a winery, introduced me to olympic marksmanship, took me to a friend's birthday party and showed me the best of San Rafael. During an excellent asado (BBQ) meal, I had the chance to meet Rita's brother and sister. Her brother gave me some great advice on places to visit in northern Argentina. Alejandro augmented this info with some route suggestions and a map. Alejandro also helped me wash and complete some maintenance on my motorcycle. I do not know if I will ever have the chance to truly return the kindness that I was shown. I hope that I do. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_-T7JlDVeA...0/100_5516.JPG I must say that I was happy to visit Alejandro and his family, but I was sad to leave. They truly made me feel at home. Alas, the weather was starting to turn cold. I needed to head north before the cold, rain and snow set in. I road off into the cold, but with a warm heart. |
Fellow Texan
It's been great reading your story, very inspirational. My girlfriend and I are in San Antonio right and plan on starting a South America trip this November. We are flying into Chile and buying bikes there. I wish you safe travel through the rest of your journey.
-Justin |
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The Adventure Begins... Northern Argentina... Valle de la Luna, Ischigualasto...
From San Rafael, I set off down the road and pointed my wheels north.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WUIlvPGbGU...ina+-+2522.jpg My first stop was San Agustin de Valle Fertil http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nzyUiPKxKx...ina+-+2284.jpg San Agustin del Valle Fertil is a small town surrounded by rolling hills, rivers and forests http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T-7iGxZiLo...ina+-+2278.jpg There was a little lake formed by a small dam. A nice peaceful place to spend the night. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1_nwOyasKq...ina+-+2519.jpg But the real attraction was just north of the town in the area known as the Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) and the Parque Provencial Ischigualasto http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v9JInHSWQ1...ina+-+2478.jpg The park is a natural park and geological formation in north-western Argentina. There is a dirt road loop meandering through the park which passes by various rock formations. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vL48JOgtBi...ina+-+2472.jpg I left my bag at the park ranger station and set off for a day of dirt riding. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CN_moN01ov...ina+-+2371.jpg It was a bright sunny day, not a cloud in the sky. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sw4DOUh6rY...ina+-+2288.jpg According to this guide, the Ischigualasto park contains late Triassic (Carnian) period deposits with some of the oldest known dinosaur remains in the world. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KgiydArTaH...ina+-+2291.jpg It is the only place in the world where nearly all of the Triassic is represented in an undisturbed sequence of rock deposits. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ijeBNugKod...ina+-+2296.jpg This allows for the study of the transition between dinosaurs and ancient mammals; research is ongoing. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OwMPrxpHLo...ina+-+2299.jpg These fossils were pointed out to me. I believe that they are plant fossils. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-a4C8HesEFi...ina+-+2306.jpg I passed by valleys and plateaus. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QDXBqWYrPX...ina+-+2310.jpg I entered an area know as the Painted Valley. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4707rNibrx...ina+-+2313.jpg The Painted Valley looked more like the surface of the moon to me. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NltcGuem6l...ina+-+2323.jpg Sweeping rock and sand formations. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qI06j0la4v...ina+-+2333.jpg This formation is known as the Sphinx. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D2AfepbAXl...ina+-+2337.jpg Water and wind erosion over thousands of years created the formations. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xhi4ewhiz8...ina+-+2339.jpg Tablets http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_WnBys4rCo...ina+-+2351.jpg This area is known as the Cancha de Bochas (Ball Court). Supposedly these round formations were formed from water and wind flowing over, under and around solid rock. I did not really understand how that could have happened. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R6GDaUYW3y...ina+-+2355.jpg I did like this bocha that had been fissured. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CXEUgJZaZ0...ina+-+2359.jpg One of the strangest things I've seen on my trip. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f1u7KbKraj...ina+-+2367.jpg This tablet formation is slowly being undermined. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x7gTz5_1UH...ina+-+2373.jpg The road switched between dirt, sand and a little gravel... extraordinary riding. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RV7MhwbSgY...ina+-+2391.jpg This formation is called El Submarino (The Submarine). http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1c2nKptBbK...ina+-+2399.jpg A little window into the ancient past. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V-Iy2HKvJl...ina+-+2411.jpg I can not imagine how this rock formation was created over the years. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ha3GAS5yOX...ina+-+2430.jpg This formation was called El Hongo (mushroom) http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xRFE1-YThM...ina+-+2457.jpg A different angle... same Hongo. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q9ZiYY7Xwj...ina+-+2451.jpg This formation did not have a name, but I'm going to call it La Casa del Perro de Troy (Troy's Dog House). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZXjhEGOMDQ...ina+-+2465.jpg These formations reminded me of slugs http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qUQ7droaoh...ina+-+2415.jpg Rock, sand and a few cacti. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XtDjmYP56I...ina+-+2433.jpg There were subtle changes in the coloration of the mountains. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-51pAmec9wJ...ina+-+2459.jpg This area contained red rock mountains framed by the blue sky. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yJZyL0C5lq...ina+-+2477.jpg In total the ride around the park was about 3 hours. See video Here is a short 2 minute video of my experience riding through Parque Ischigualasto. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zvzif_8MOF...ina+-+2488.jpg After completing the loop, I visited the museum which contained a few dinosaur fossils... a head http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wl0mIS-qXj...ina+-+2485.jpg A body http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-66xaejh3Yg...ina+-+2494.jpg A head http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bNm8J69OQd...ina+-+2505.jpg A body http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YQP57oPDkM...ina+-+2511.jpg Nice teeth. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aTs7y6CTRp...ina+-+2525.jpg It was getting late, so I headed toward the town of La Rioja. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GIkpzmGbSd...ina+-+2531.jpg I passed by this huge monument of Saint Nicholas de Bari. To understand the scale of this monument, look at the truck passing by the base of the monument. I spent the night in the town of La Rioja. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EWwHNFDLYN...ina+-+2547.jpg I had been riding most of the day, so I extremely hungry. This plate of fish and potatoes really hit the spot. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qCb5xARAgT...ina+-+2549.jpg I chose this route based on the suggestion of my friend Alejandro. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VDVAci8uZb...ina+-+2551.jpg The road wound through mountains of Northern Argentina. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-24ELUUPuZF...ina+-+2555.jpg Simply amazing scenery. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Eus24-FKw8...ina+-+2561.jpg Perhaps the most pleasant ride of my trip. It was cool, but not cold. The road was concrete, but also curvy. The views were scenic, but not scary. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jq1UVyETwG...ina+-+2574.jpg Then rode until I reached a small town called Andalgala. I found a hotel and checked in for the night. Every time I embark on a ride, I do a quick inspection of my bike. While inspecting my bike in the morning, I noticed that my rear tire was wearing unevenly. The nobbies on one side were showing much more wear than the nobbies on the other side. I was a bit surprised, because I only had about 4000 miles on the rear tire. However, I had been riding quite a bit of dirt and gravel. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NHnbYxwf67...ina+-+2593.jpg I was hoping to buy new tires in Bolivia where I had heard motorcycle tires and parts were less expensive. However, I had promised myself that on this trip if I ever had to choose between my safety and spending money, I would part with the money. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-88RhDgyUSs...ina+-+2592.jpg So I took my bike to a local tire shop and bought the only nobbie tire in town that would fit on my bike... US$180 for a single rear tire... ouch. The tire was a Pirelli MT40. I suspected that the uneven wear on the rear tire was caused by wear and tear on my chain and sprockets. My friend Sam, who is a mechanic, once told me that after some use a chain will stretch and the circular sprockets will actually turn into ovals. I had noticed lately that while riding on asphalt that my rear wheel was hopping a bit. I attributed this action to my sprockets turning into ovals. Well, I was not going to be able to find a new chain and sprocket in Andalgala, so a new tire was in order. There was still tread on the old tire, but I was concerned about the next segment of my journey. While in Andalgala a few people had asked me, "Vas por la cuesta?" or "Are you going by the incline?" A "cuesta" can be an incline, a hill or a mountain. By the manner in which I was repeatedly asked this question, I inferred that this "cuesta" was a mountain. I inquired a bit about the "cuesta" and learned that there were actually two "cuestas" and that the ride would be about 5-6 hours of steep dirt road. Four hours of climbing and two hours of descending. With this in mind, I thought that it would be nice to have some nobbies on my rear tire. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ddpsmPyO4O...ina+-+2549.jpg With new rubber on the road, set off in the direction of the "cuesta". http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iXeruaAAEn...ina+-+2597.jpg The route soon turned mountainous. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TRvkr0gn-3...ina+-+2609.jpg The asphalt gave way to gravel. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8EHcgouo_u...ina+-+2598.jpg And the straight road turned twisty. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4rWY0lHrbp...ina+-+2586.jpg It was dirt, gravel and rocks. It was steep, twisty and narrow. It was single lane, remote and mountainous. It was "La Cuesta". See Video Here is a short 3 minute video of "La Cuesta". Perhaps one of the most treacherous routes over dirt that I have traversed during my trip. I was glad that I had bought the new rear tire. It had just paid for itself based on this one ride. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9YO6Y9U_g8...ina+-+2615.jpg After perhaps 6 hours of riding... the road opened up...I road on. Next stop...Tucuman. |
The Adventure Begins... Adventure Motorcycle Review
Here are two videos reviewing adventure touring motorcycles including the BMW R1200GS, Yamaha XT1200Z Super Tenere, Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 and KTM 990 Adventure. Enjoy!
See Part 1 Video See Part 2 Video |
The Adventure Begins... Northern Argentina
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From Salta, I continued north along the highway. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ysITfpVdzp...2B-%2B2693.jpg I passed by the Cerro de los Siete Colores (Hill of Seven Colors). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U4d2flezGG...2B-%2B2699.jpg To me, the hill seemed to have more than seven colors. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C-3pruuCi0...2B-%2B2712.jpg I could count at least 10, maybe more. But who is really keeping track. It's just one of those wonders to ponder. How does that happen? http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tUSQzD3OVX...ina+-+2735.jpg I rode on and passed an area known as the Quebrada de Humahuaca (Ravine of Humahuaca). There were mountains with crazy rock formations. I don't know if these mountains were formed from erosion or tectonic plates colliding... amazing either way. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4gOBEI4RWR...ina+-+2747.jpg I checked out the Posta de Hornillos. The fort was built in 1772. Supposedly the fort and others like it were instrumental in the war for independence for Argentina. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z5byCalREn...ina+-+2759.jpg Ever see a llama up close and personal? http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g3AImtdRz4...ina+-+2753.jpg How about a giant llama? I reached the small town of Humahuaca. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ikk2vV6Fpj...ina+-+2778.jpg I left my bags in the hostel and decided to do a little exploring in the outskirts. I headed down a dirt road to an area called Coctaca. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9PrNXVDLyH...ina+-+2809.jpg I found the village which contained about 5 houses and this small iglesia (church). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k1MTr-1-HH...ina+-+2796.jpg Not much out there, except some thistles and some ruins. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BNaQo6SlxN...ina+-+2798.jpg Actually, Coctaca is supposedly some of the largest pre-Colombian ruins in South America covering some 40 hectares. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qIG1vOX2uC...ina+-+2818.jpg However, many of the ruins were not excavated and could not be distinguished from a pile of rocks. But there were quite a few of them. There was no information center, no landmarks, no signs... just rocks. I walked amongst the ruins freely. There was absolutely nobody around. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kmlTiUWJH9...ina+-+2802.jpg Just me, Emi and a few cacti. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZtGtUrAoZ5...ina+-+2827.jpg Actually, there were more that a few... the valley was covered in cacti. Up close, the cacti were quite exquisite. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VREOeeIIqH...ina+-+2860.jpg Oh... and there were a few burros amongst the rocks and cacti. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e9hg3uGXQv...ina+-+2905.jpg I headed back toward town along the dirt road. Closer to civilization there were more burros. And a few sheep going about their business. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UlF6eVmmTV...ina+-+2898.jpg I ran into this old lady and her dog. She looked like an interesting person. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nPOBoUjBCN...ina+-+2897.jpg I asked her if I could take her photo... and she said yes. An austere lady in a rugged landscape. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qfm2u5LtTa...ina+-+2917.jpg The next day I would push on towards the north. I passed hills, rivers, canyons... chasms, bridges and mountains. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WXz8PsscHm...ina+-+2925.jpg I stopped along the way... just to take a deep breath... and look. Northern Argentina had some of the most amazing scenery. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8gJzL71oYE...ina+-+2927.jpg Further down the road, I reached the frontier town of La Quiaca. I crossed from Argentina into Boliva. Bolivia requires a visa for US citizens. I was able to get it at the border. It set me back US$135. Ciao Argentina, you have been an amazing travel partner. For the full story visit Northern Argentina |
The Adventure Begins... Salar de Uyuni
Upon entering Bolivia I traveled to the town of Tupiza.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JYyLI3oJ-P...via+-+0102.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gR_tluEdR2...via+-+0187.jpg In Tupiza, I met some fellow travelers and we would set off on an excursion to the Salar de Uyuni. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5-_2wA4BgW...via+-+0537.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vqY15Yt_gy...ivia+-+676.jpg The Salar de Uyuni is the largest salt flat in the world at over 4,000 square miles (10,000 square kilometers). The Salar was formed as a result of transformations between several prehistoric lakes. It is covered by a few meters of a salt crust. The crust serves as a source of salt and covers a pool of brine, which is exceptionally rich in lithium. The Salar is both a natural resource and wonder. For the full story visit Salar de Uyuni |
The Adventure Begins... Inside a Potosi, Bolivian Mine
I went from the sublime to the subterranean. I traveled from the bliss of the Salar de Uyuni to the gritty mining town of Potosi. The town is known as being one of the highest cities in the world at 13,420 feet (4090 meters) and for the production of silver extracted from the mines in the area.
And the thing to do in Potosi... is to go visit a mine. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c8K7CxSiwu...via+-+0782.jpg I saw the mines as I approached the city. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N4ZuauFO5W...via+-+0798.jpg I signed up for a mine tour and was equipped with a vintage Beastie Boys outfit. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BbXmrqngOe...via+-+0799.jpg As part of the tour, I visited a mining store. It is like a convenience store for miners to pick up supplies for their work... like gear, tools, water... http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oZmCgr7E-x...via+-+0800.jpg and dynamite. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cKkjubU9ZX...via+-+0801.jpg That's right... one can walk off the street and into one of these stores and pick up a stick of dynamite. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S2hGfEh18m...via+-+0802.jpg My guide showed me how to connect a fuse and add a bag of common fertilizer to add a bigger bag for my buck. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U3XnJgI313...via+-+0803.jpg I then went to the miner market where I could pick up some grain alcohol to drink and some coco leaves to chew. These are actually things that miners take with them into the mines to lets say "take the edge off the work day". I was encouraged to buy a few items to bring into the mine to provide as gifts to the miners. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lM8LntGAnr...via+-+0806.jpg I was then taken to a part of the mine at which I was shown how minerals like silver are extracted from the material that is dung out of the mine. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZmmCkolRgJ...via+-+0811.jpg This huge apparatus separates the mineral from the material with water and chemicals like arsenic and mercury. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vhcDw9hny4...via+-+0812.jpg And if one is lucky... http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LXIUvMX2Hx...via+-+0813.jpg Silver is extracted. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jg03ObnCYi...via+-+0814.jpg Then it was time to go inside the mine. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yf0JQOfeEk...via+-+0815.jpg For the full story visit Inside a Potasi Mine |
The Adventure Begins... Sucre
Sucre is a pleasant town with a nice climate, colonial architecture, cheerful parks, good restaurants and some art.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c6qyAPQCxN...via+-+0928.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8Fol2fnn5X...via+-+0946.jpg http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AbR073GeTs...via+-+1026.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rLTfxkjLRd...via+-+1027.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F4U2HVQwq2...via+-+1031.jpg For the full story visit Sucre |
The Adventure Begins... Museo de Etnografía y Folklore Mascaras
I visited the Museo de Etnografía y Folklore (Museum of Etnographia and Folklore) in Sucre.
There was an amazing collection of ceremonial masks. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9lwOb7ATAg...ivia+-+782.jpg http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3VZKn3G4L-...ivia+-+774.jpg For the full story visit Museo de Etnografía y Folklore Mascaras |
The Adventure Begins... Sucre to Santa Cruz... Dirt, Sand and a Slight Delay
From Sucre I planned to travel to Santa Cruz.
I had a friend named Dave that was going to be visiting Santa Cruz and he was bringing me some parts for my bike. I set off from Sucre along the asphalt highway. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eX_Q-HNvgJ...via+-+1040.jpg Outside of a town called Acquile, I ran into a local motorcyclist pulled over on the side of the road. I stopped to see if he needed assistance. He said that he was just changing his oil. I said great. He inquired as to where I was headed. I said Santa Cruz. He said that he was going to Santa Cruz too and that we should ride together. He seemed pretty eager. I said okay and we headed off. For the full story visit... Sucre to Santa Cruz |
Hey Troy. Great job with your blog. I'm leaving in a few days to follow your trail. There are so many negative remarks about Mexico and so it was nice to read your account of the accident with the taxi.
twowheelsthreeamericas -Dale |
Quote:
You'll be fine. Just ride with care. Ride like a local. Whenever I would get stopped by the police or military, my trick was to always ask them for assistance. "Donde estamos?" "Es possible ayudarme?" It puts them in the position to help you. It changes the dynamic completely. Mexico has some truly amazing roads. Enjoy! Troy |
The Adventure Begins... Santa Cruz, Bolivia Street Art
After two days of tough riding, I landed in Santa Cruz. I checked into a hotel and went for a walk. Near the center of town, I came across some interesting street art.
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The Adventure Begins... Think of the Possibilities
While walking around Santa Cruz, I spotted this tuk tuk for sale. Think of the possibilities!
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The Adventure Begins... Friends, Food and Fixin' Things in Santa Cruz, Bolivia
I met up with some friends that were visiting Bolivia.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m67y67OOSe...via+-+1070.jpg Noel, Dave, Steve and Pat were in Bolivia on a mission trip. We had a chance to walk around the city center a bit and enjoy a nice dinner of asado (bbq). There were some other friends that I got to see as well that were not in this photo. Big ups... Gaylord, Caris, Leslie, Sophia, Cara, Ricky and Candace. It was great to see you all. Dave brought me some motorcycle parts that I had ordered online... a new chain, a front and rear sprocket, chain roller, gas filter and a tank bag. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VeTrKi1Jw4...via+-+1079.jpg The next day, I took the chain and sprockets to this Suzuki dealer and asked them to install the parts and perform some other maintenance. Emi had reached her 20,000 mile (32,000 km) anniversary. It was time to give her some tender loving care. The shop installed the new chain, sprockets, chain roller, gas filter, and performed an oil and filter change, air filter cleaning, lube, carb adjustment, valve adjustment and a washing. As a result, Emi was looking good and feeling good. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJ__fA7h7X...via+-+1072.jpg While in Santa Cruz, I wanted to obtain a visa for Paraguay. I visited the Paraguay consulate office which was not far from the town center. The staff member was helpful and explained the process to me. I needed to fill out a form. Check! I needed to provide a passport photo. Check! I actually was carrying one with me, so it worked out fine. And, then I needed to go to the Mercantil Santa Cruz Bank and deposit US$100 into a specific account. No problem... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TsBZgjjar-...via+-+1075.jpg Except that the police were on strike across the nation. It was a pretty intense situation for a while. There was news coverage of the striking police officers taking over police stations and wielding their weapons. Businesses were not opening. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3pRL_b31D0...via+-+1077.jpg Which meant the Mercantil Santa Cruz Bank was closed because of security concerns. People were still lining up outside the bank with the hope that they would be able to access their accounts. But I waited around for two days and the bank did not open. Which meant that I was not going to be able to deposit money in the bank to pay for my visa for Paraguay. Sometimes, you just have to make it up as you go. So instead of waiting in Santa Cruz for the police strike to end, I decided that I would take a trip to a little visited area in eastern Bolivia. |
The Adventure Begins... The Jesuit Missions of Chiquitos, Bolivia
One of my favorite films of all time is called The Mission.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fYJCgF6zO4...themission.jpg The Mission is a 1986 British drama about the experiences of a Jesuit missionary in 18th century South American. Back in the day, the film collected a number of prestigious awards from the Cannes Film Festival, the Academy Awards and the Golden Globe Awards. See Video Here is a scene from the film. Based on historical facts, the film takes place in an area that stretches across Bolivia, Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil. There is a grouping of Jesuit missions in eastern Bolivia. It is a little off the beaten path for most travelers, but being on a motorcycle, I thought that I would check it out. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ps6FvOiogC...via+-+1215.jpg So I hopped on my bike and headed north and east down a dirt road. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yGU6hzuOJj...missionmap.png The Jesuit Missions of Chiquitos are located in eastern Bolivia. These former missions collectively were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1990. Distinguished by a unique fusion of European and Amerindian cultural influences, the missions were founded as reducciones de indios by Jesuits in the 17th and 18th centuries to convert local tribes to Christianity. In 1767 there was an expulsion of the Jesuits from the area and many of the settlements turned to ruins. A large restoration project of the missionary churches began with the arrival of the former Swiss Jesuit and architect Hans Roth in 1972. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v5JAdVSB1V...via+-+1626.jpg On the way to the mission area, I passed by some lush green farming areas. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7l6FcmKQ3x...via+-+1145.jpg It was a very picturesque ride with small lakes and rivers and rolling green hills. It looked like scenery fitting to be in a film. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mx03M-MHTw...via+-+1130.jpg The first town that I visited was San Xavier (San Javier). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BUER_RZiVo...via+-+1091.jpg Initially established in 1691, the mission of San Xavier was the first of the missions listed as a World Heritage Site. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZgnDFEhuZq...via+-+1109.jpg The church was built between 1749 and 1752 by the Swiss Jesuit and architect Fr. Martin Schmid. The school and church, as well as other characteristics of residential architecture, are still visible today in the village. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GB2Q3iFI-R...via+-+1102.jpg The original inhabitants of San Xavier were the Piñoca tribe. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pmv-0Pa-TS...via+-+1649.jpg San Xavier was restored by Hans Roth between 1987 and 1993. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iGXGNPakOW...via+-+1647.jpg The wooden structure was meticulously restored by local wood carvers both inside and outside. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OIhkK3zPQZ...via+-+1670.jpg Along with many of the religious artifacts. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hoYqr9A3te...via+-+1133.jpg As I was about to leave, I spotted this young boy hanging around the front of the mission. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iwYL59G1Hi...via+-+1134.jpg Then he was joined by his sister and pet dog. As they road off, I snapped this image... capturing the two kids and their dog at play. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ahHogGIeHV...via+-+1463.jpg I rode on. For the full story visit The Jesuit Missions of Chiquitos, Bolivia |
The Adventure Begins... 10 Things I Have Learned About Riding A Motorcycle In LA
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These are 10 things that I have learned about riding a motorcycle for a year around Latin America. I do not know if they can be generalized or applied for life in general, but perhaps they can. 1. A big motorcycle gets you attention, a small motorcycle gets you inside. 2. One can source and repair just about everything, just about everywhere for the Suzuki DR650. 3. Ride like a local, which usually means on the far right side of the road. 4. Ride slow around, through and over obstacles. 5. A friendly proactive horn beep is better than angry reactive horn blast. 6. It is not necessary to "fully speak" the language, but it is necessary to "attempt to speak" the language. It will always lead to better accommodation, food, drinks and experiences. 7. Asking for help, directions or suggestions is not an indication of weakness, it is an opportunity for others to participate in the journey. 8. Eat the menu del dia (menu of the day). 9. Smile, you are on vacation. 10. Adjust your attitude to the latitude. |
The Adventure Begins... Perhaps the Best Meal of My Trip
I had perhaps the best meal of my trip. Strangely, it was not in a big city or a fancy restaurant. It was in the small town of Concepcion, Bolivia in a small restaurant just off the central plaza called El Buen Gusto.
The restaurant was set inside a colonial style patio house. There was soft music playing in the background. I sat toward the front of the restaurant which allowed me to to see both the tables inside and people passing by outside. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L...c/s288/231.jpg The meal started off with a vegetable soup. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...c/s288/232.jpg The second course was a self service salad bar... vegetables are sometimes hard to come by in Bolivia. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...w/s288/236.jpg I was thirsty from traveling so I ordered a jarra de limonada (jar of limonade). I had no problem finishing it off. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6...Q/s288/237.jpg The main course was orange chicken with rice and potatoes. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q...M/s288/238.jpg And I elected to try the strawberry cake for dessert. |
The Adventure Begins... Samaipata... A Bit of Serenity in Bolivia
I spent two days in Santa Cruz. Principally to apply for a visa to enter Paraguay. The Bolivian police strike had ended, so the banks were open once again. I was able to complete all the tramites (paperwork) and submitted my application. Sure enough, within 24 hours I had my visa!
I decided to head back toward Sucre. Along the way, I stopped in a little town called Samaipata. Samaipata is a Quechua word that means: The Height to Rest. With its delightful subtropical climate and an altitude of 1600–1800 meters it tempts foreigners to settle. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0sBdCxxBbv...via+-+1732.jpg The little village is kind of a Micromundo where about 25 nationalities now live together in harmony and peace. The town is small with numerous colonial buildings and narrow cobbled streets. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LA_MoAtyu4...via+-+1720.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SLp6o8t25b...via+-+1738.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DQglRjaI7x...via+-+1764.jpg For the full story visit Samaipata |
The Adventure Begins... Doubling Down on the Dirt
From Samaipata I continued down the road to Sucre.
I usually do not like to ride the same route twice, but my options were somewhat limited. I wanted to make my way to Sucre. There was a southern route, which I estimated would take three or four days to arrive in Sucre. So, I elected to take the northern route, which I estimated would take two days or as little as one day. But it meant that I would be traveling a route which I had ridden previously... a route that I knew was mostly gravel, dirt and loose sand. So I doubled down on the dirt and hoped that I would have a little luck. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hA3Qjm3453...via+-+1780.jpg The ride started out along a nice twisty asphalt road. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wNNTU_NGWE...via+-+1786.jpg But then it soon turned to gravel. I knew what to expect. After many days of riding on gravel and sand, I felt comfortable tackling the terrain. I just needed to stand up and move with my motorcycle. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ywzBZ4ZUq9...via+-+1788.jpg So I relaxed and enjoyed the beautiful scenery. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AyqTaqg_5W...via+-+1790.jpg Mountains beyond mountains. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r3n-Vkes-E...via+-+1794.jpg Then I came upon this. Outside of the town of Saipina, there was a bloqueo (road block) due to construction. This was the same bloqueo that I came across before. I was told that the construction crew would let traffic through between 12-2pm and after 6pm. It was about 3pm... I had missed the window of opportunity... so I was in for a wait. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6RzhYYRb4N...via+-+1799.jpg So, I pulled back away from all the dust created by the construction and waited. The dirt digger kept digging and I kept waiting. Eventually, two other motorcyclists on small bikes arrived on the scene. We assessed the situation. We debated if we could ride over the mound of dirt and gravel. To the right (uphill) of the dirt digger there was not any space. To the left (downhill) of the dirt digger there was about one foot of space... then a cliff with a drop-off of 100 feet. Risky. As we were discussing the issue, the head construction engineer approached us and interjected that he would not allow us to ride over the mound. Oh...well...time to relax. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8A2mrLgo3j...via+-+1800.jpg So, I decided to do a little checkup on my motorcycle. This is what my motorcycle setup looks like now. I have a Giant Loop Great Basin bag, GL Fandango tank bag, Pelican case, tent, empty extra gas tank and the orange bag holds my rain gear. And depending on the road conditions... dirt. All good. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zU0KnKOTj1...via+-+1802.jpg Then something strange was happening near the construction area. I was off at a distance and could not quite determine what was going on. So I approached the construction area to obtain a better view. It appeared that one of the motorcyclists had crossed over to the other side of the dirt digger. I did not see him crossover, so I did not understand how he accomplished it. But then the other motorcyclist was attempting to cross. This is what they did. The motorcyclists had negotiated with the operator of the dirt digger. The operator placed the shovel of the machine on the ground. Then the motorcyclist backed his bike into the shovel. The operator lifted the moto and motorcyclist with the shovel, swung them around the edge of the cliff and deposited them on the other side. I would not have believed it if I had not seen it with my own eyes. Ingenious. The Bolivians are geniuses at creative solutions for everyday obstacles. Unfortunately, I was not quick enough to get out my camera and take a video or photo. Equally unfortunate, my motorcycle was too large and would not fit inside the shovel of the dirt digger, so I would have to continue to wait. I waited until about 6pm... and then like Bolivian clock work...ha ha... the road was opened. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7qoIZETT6w...via+-+0743.jpg I rode on for about an hour and then it turned dark. It is always a little precarious riding in sand, but riding in sand and at night was a little crazy. There was no moonlight... there was just black (see the picture above). I road on for about 30 minutes and came across a faint light. The light led me to a small cafe. I could not really say that the cafe was part of a village, because there really were no other structures around. It was just one small cafe in the middle of darkness. An old man at the cafe told me that I should ride for 30 minutes more to the next village of Perez. There I should ask for Dona Juana. She sometimes offered travelers a room in her house. So, off into the darkness I rode. I arrived in the village of Perez and asked for Dona Juana. Either I had the wrong name, wrong village or Dona Juana was hiding from this gringo. I could not find her. Anyways, I asked if there was a place that I could stay. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2B63rOuBKJ...via+-+1804.jpg The consensus among the good people of Perez was that I could pop up my tent in front of this business that was closed. The owner was not around and was not expected to return for a number of days. I asked if it was safe. Everyone said that I "should" be okay. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5viuLBsdXQ...via+-+1890.jpg And as it turned out.., everything was okay. I woke early the next morning to complete the journey to Sucre. Before I left Perez, a gentleman told me that the road ahead would be closed starting at 8am for a motocross race. I thought that was cool... they close an entire road...the only road... for a motocross race. I decided that I should ride quickly with the hopes of surpassing the road closure. I wanted to see the motocross race, but I wanted to reach Sucre as well. So, off I rode. At one point there was a small bloqueo. A man at the bloqueo said that the road was closed for the motorcycle race. I said that I just wanted to go a little further to watch the race. It was not a lie. I wanted to see the race, but I really wanted to get ahead of the race. He let me ride pass. The family waiting at the bloqueo did not look happy. I rode quickly. For the full story visit Doubling Down on the Dirt |
The Adventure Begins... The Backroad of Bolivia
See the video
This is a link to a short 3 minute video with scenes of traveling around the backroads of Bolivia. The scenes include some segments of riding over asphalt, gravel, dirt, sand through a dry river bed. Watching the Wheels People say I'm crazy doing what I'm doing, Well they give me all kinds of warnings to save me from ruin, When I say that I'm o.k. they look at me kind of strange, Surely your not happy now you no longer play the game, People say I'm lazy dreaming my life away, Well they give me all kinds of advice designed to enlighten me, When I tell that I'm doing Fine watching shadows on the wall, Don't you miss the big time boy you're no longer on the ball? I'm just sitting here watching the wheels go round and round, I really love to watch them roll, No longer riding on the merry-go-round, I just had to let it go, People asking questions lost in confusion, Well I tell them there's no problem, Only solutions, Well they shake their heads and they look at me as if I've lost my mind, I tell them there's no hurry... I'm just sitting here doing time, I'm just sitting here watching the wheels go round and round, I really love to watch them roll, No longer riding on the merry-go-round, I just had to let it go. - John Lennon |
The Adventure Begins... Kids and Kart Races in Sucre
I was walking around Sucre and came across this banner near the central plaza.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZF5-GECCg2...via+-+1930.jpg The banner reads National Race of Karts without Motors...Finish!. It appears that every year Sucre hosts a push kart race for youth. There were entries from different regions of the country and divisions based on age. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vQbtoPxACg...via+-+1925.jpg I met this crew on the street. There is always one driver and one pusher. They can switch places during the race. The driver drives and the pusher pushes. The pusher hops on the back of the kart on some of the downhill sections. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4u3SIGuAcr...via+-+1924.jpg The crew proudly introduced me to their kart. A classic build... 4 wheels, wooden planks, pad brakes, push bar and helmets. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--2uwffxV2B...via+-+1931.jpg This little guy had an amazing kart made mostly with wood. Notice the wooden wheels wrapped with rubber for traction. He steered the kart with a cord attached to the front axle. For the full story and a short video visit Kids and Kart Races in Sucre |
The Adventure Begins... Classic Motorcycles
There seemed to be a number of classic motorcycles in Sucre.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ojIZjTCCkT...via+-+2082.jpg Zanella http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S36oXPWjeF...via+-+2311.jpg Yamaha 125 http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i5mqx_Rs9Y...via+-+1965.jpg Honda CB350 http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ncra2qz8Yf...via+-+2305.jpg Moto Guzzi http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jKEgfIPi3y...via+-+2076.jpg Paggio Scooter For more photos visit Classic Motorcycles |
The Adventure Begins... Museo de Arte indígena ASUR
I visited the Museo de Arte indígena ASUR (Museum of Indigenous Art).
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Qegr94MNl...via+-+2112.jpg The mission of the museum is to protect and preserve the artisan work of the indigenous population. The museum contains a collection of Jalq’a and Candelaria (Tarabuco) weavings and offers instruction on techniques used to produce the traditional textiles. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mlUNrS-kPg...via+-+2099.jpg To arrive at the museum one must climb a small cobblestone hill. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eQ5P7qww2T...via+-+2143.jpg Once inside, one can see artisans at work creating various forms of textiles http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bfop4e7Fat...via+-+2144.jpg It is generally a handmade process. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K4QoJEUHFk...via+-+2120.jpg The artisans take yarn from sheep or alpaca and create masterpieces. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jI_y6BQm45...via+-+2134.jpg For the full story and more photos visit Museo de Arte indígena ASUR |
The Adventure Begins... Salteñas... a Culinary Delight in Bolivia
In Northern Argentina and Southern Bolivia there are these confections known as Salteñas. Salteñas are savory baked pastries filled with chicken, beef or pork, mixed with vegetables like potatoes, peas, olives and infused with a sweet sometimes spicy sauce. I found them in many places, but Sucre seemed to have some of the best. They are often available in corner convenience stores, but the best are found in specialty Salteñas Cafes. And they are best eaten when they are fresh out of the oven and hot!
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ECyEvljbBL...via+-+1968.jpg These are three examples of different Salteñas. From left to right Santa Clara (Sweet Chicken), Carne (Beef) and Pollo (Chicken). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-thVEm2GmEt...via+-+1966.jpg This cafe called El Patio had some of the best Salteñas. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RbU_9jk7HF...via+-+1967.jpg One can enjoy the Salteñas while sitting in the cafe's nice outdoor patio. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TzLSFQzJaY...via+-+1969.jpg I liked to accompany my Salteñas with a fresh juice or smoothie. This one is made of strawberries. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Eih5ohr4MB...via+-+1971.jpg One characteristic of Salteñas is that the ingredients on the inside are infused with a juicy broth. The fist time I ate a Salteña I simply picked it up with my hand and took a bite. The hot juices overflowed onto my hand and plate. It was a mess. As a result, much of the savory goodness was wasted. I then observed how the locals were eating the pastries. The well versed eaters of Salteñas would take a small bite out of the top of the pastry, then use a small spoon to spoon out the ingredients and juices... a much more refined way to enjoy the delicacies. I learned my lesson... eat like a local. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0VBQaGDzQz...via+-+1972.jpg This is an example of a Salteña de Pollo (Chicken). It contains chicken, potatoes, peas, herbs, spices and the broth. It seemed like there may have been a touch of curry as well. Delicious! http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v_38XKDoWQ...via+-+1973.jpg This is a Salteña de Carne (Beef). It contains beef, potatoes, peas, herbs, spices and the broth. It seemed to have a little more picante (spice). Yummy! http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MfxZ5pFfYl...via+-+1975.jpg And, this is a Salteña de Santa Clara. It contains chicken, potatoes, peas, herbs, spices. It seemed to contain less broth and was a little more dry. Also, it had a sprinkling of granular sugar baked on the top. I would say that it was a little sweeter. All of them were great. Sometimes the Salteñas contain other surprises like olives and small eggs. Salteñas became a staple of my diet while in Sucre. Generally, the cafes that sell Salteñas open at around 9:30-10:00 am. They make an excellent mid-morning snack... or for late risers... a perfect morning breakfast. Buen Provecho! |
The Adventure Begins... Convento de San Felipe Neri (Convent of San Felipe Neri)
I visited the Convento de San Felipe Neri.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0X25zZPiVr...via+-+2005.jpg Could it really be interesting to visit a convent? You be the judge. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0gXxHe48wm...via+-+2014.jpg You enter the convent and walk down these long white arched hallways. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GcZ3Ayb-HX...via+-+2010.jpg Along the way you see some religious artwork. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YIUAEUrKl7...via+-+2003.jpg And you keep walking. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XSH2sw_kGF...via+-+2067.jpg And you see some more religious artwork. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U6eBUUI2uM...via+-+2007.jpg And as you walk down the hallways, you start to realize that there are intricate details in the workmanship all around you. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Abk4XVojWE...via+-+2018.jpg You look out at the courtyard and realize this is truly amazing. Hmmm... you wonder if you could go higher. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dxxqPD0GSU...via+-+2020.jpg And then you find a passageway that leads you to the roof. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fj2fEKpGUu...via+-+2061.jpg OK, you are up on the roof... this is cool. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D-ZJ8T6V80...via+-+2052.jpg The colorful masonry surprises you. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aVrzBLdeeO...via+-+2051.jpg Could you go higher. Try going up the stairs. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pkUc_ubynn...via+-+2023.jpg As you look around, you see the shadow of a bell tower. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Pbq4tj5rWc...via+-+2021.jpg And then you see the bell tower. You wonder if you could go inside and ascend. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QKCmayt1ln...via+-+2042.jpg Sure enough, on the inside, you find a spiral staircase that ascends the tower. It is pretty tight, but you climb the steps slowly. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GRvNgjFfHx...via+-+2033.jpg When you reach the top, you look out of the bellfry. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1EaZa0h9aS...via+-+2038.jpg You see some beautify views. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kxGW_7Krh-...via+-+2044.jpg You overlook the hills of Sucre. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6HqVtkzCXC...via+-+2046.jpg You overlook the rooftops of the city. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OFaDtU8Hqf...via+-+2048.jpg You can almost see the central plaza. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LMxhlpUbGz...via+-+2058.jpg So what do you think? Can a convent be an interesting place to visit? |
The Adventure Begins... Honda CRF250L Review
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See the video Here is a 5 minute video review of the Honda CRF250L new dual sport motorcycle. |
The Adventure Begins... Adventure on a Triumph Tiger
See the video
OK, this is basically a cheesy advertisement for Icon, but this 30 minute short film features some amazing motorcycle riding on Triumph Tigers. My adventures are not nearly as extreme as those shown in this film. Although I do not think these guys were stopping to take photos. |
The Adventure Begins... Sucre...La Ciudad Blanca (Sucre... The White City)
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Sucre is known as La Ciudad Blanca or The White City. The nickname was bestowed upon the city because many of the colonial style houses and structures are painted white. I took a walk around the city and this is what I saw. Loreto Chapel Colonial style villa The Government of Chuquisaca building Iglesia de Santo Domingo Plaza 25 de Mayo Vendor selling popcorn Sasteria (Tailor) Arches of the Basilica de San Francisco Basilica de San Francisco As I approached the Basilica de San Francisco there was some sort of commotion. It appeared that a wedding had just taken place. The bride and groom are at the very back of this photo. It was very festive... with heaps of confetti being tossed in the air. Colorful and covered in confetti. As the festivities ended, the people poured out into the street. As I continued on exploring the city I came across this... a zebra. It was actually a dancing zebra that was directing traffic and assisting pedestrians to cross the street. I learned later that the zebras are part of a youth program to help street kids with education and job training. The motorist, pedestrians and tourists all seemed to love the assistance. For the full story with photos visit Sucre |
The Adventure Begins... Repair of Gaerne G Adventure Motorcycle Boots
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As I have chronicled earlier on my website (post 1, 2, 3). I have been wearing the Gaerne G Adventure Motorcycle Boots during my adventure. I have worn them from Austin to Antarctica. The boots have been through quite a bit... riding, trekking, casual wear... exactly like adventure boots should be worn. I like the design, fit, comfort and utility of the boots. But three months into my travels, during some heavy rain in Panama, the boots showed the first signs that they were not waterproof. I had been treating the boots with creams, polishes and Sno-Seal. However now, the situation had worsened. The boots are definitely not waterproof and some of the leather had started to crack. I met another motorcyclist with the same boots... and the same problem. It looks like this is not an isolated situation with the Gaerne G Adventure boots. Many months ago, I wrote to Revzilla, the online retailer from which I bought the boots, and to Gaerne, the manufacturer, to inquire if they could repair or replace the boots. Neither offered a viable alternative. So now nine months into my travels, I had to make a decision. Continue traveling with the non waterproof boots, buy some new boots, or try to repair the boots through my own means. I opted for the last choice. I took the boots to a zapateria (shoe repair store) near the mercado negro (black market). The cobbler said that the boots would be ready in three days. After three days, I returned to the store and the cobbler had not started working on the boots. I explained to him that the boots were my only shoes other than my sandals and that I needed the boots as soon as possible. So, I reclaimed my boots and searched for another zapateria. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V68taGywfo...via+-+2183.jpg I found this zapateria down the street... Reparadora de Calzados Frobana. The cobbler was very nice and said that it would take two days to repair the boots. I left the boots with the cobbler... hoping for the best. After two days, I returned. The cobbler had started working on the boots, but had not finished. He asked me to return later in the day. Later in the day, I returned. The cobbler was still working on the boots and explained how difficult it was to work with the boots because of the hard leather and height of the boots. He asked me to return in the evening. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E114Ilrnxz...via+-+2184.jpg I decided not to return in the evening, to allow the cobbler more time. I returned the next day. The boots were repaired! As we had discussed, he had sewn a patch of leather over the cracking crease and polished up the boots. He was going to charge me 70 Bolivianos (US$10) ... I tipped him an extra 20 Bolivianos. I thought that it was money well spent. I was happy with the repair. I thought the repair looked amazingly good and fit the style of the boot. To add some water protection, I applied some seam sealer to all the stitches and seams. Some times you just have to make it up along the way. Thumbs down for Gaerne and Revilla. Thumbs up for small businesses and craftsman that are masters at their trade! |
The Adventure Begins... Tarabuco, Bolivia... Textiles, Pulmón and a Lucky Horseshoe
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While staying in Sucre, I heard about the town of Tarabuco. The village is known for its beautiful weavings and for having a colorful Sunday market. Typically for the market day, thousands of indigenous people from the surrounding countryside descend on the town in traditional costumes. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3R_fN9kwJ6...via+-+2284.jpg At the hostel in which I was staying in Sucre, I met another motorcycle rider name Russell. We decided to take a little ride to Tarabuco to check it out. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RD7cuTC9eX...via+-+2281.jpg It was a clear and cool day. We rode for about an hour through some rolling hill country. We reached Tarabuco around noon... lunch time. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4gizrbxuDi...via+-+2191.jpg We passed by the market and found this little outdoor food stand. Russell was hungry so he quickly sat down and ordered some rice and chicken, a safe bet. I walked around a bit and asked this lady what she had for sale. The first thing she mentioned was pulmón... then pollo (chicken), carne (beef), credo (pork). I was stuck on the first thing she mentioned... because pulmón translated into english is..... lung! Hmmmm... I had never heard of eating lung. I know that I had never eaten it myself. So....................... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IZB6XQSHS_...via+-+2190.jpg I ordered a heaping portion of pulmón! It was cooked as a stew with some potatoes, beans, carrots, greens and spices. Looking at the stew, one could easily mistake the pulmón for beef or pork. I took a taste of the potato first. It was good. The sauce was a little spicy, just the way I like it. Then, I found a piece of pulmon. I lifted it to my mouth...took it in.... and began to chew. Not bad! It was a little soft and a little chewy. It had the consistency of a firm mushroom. I could not really tell if the pulmon had a distinct flavor. I think that it had absorbed most of the flavor of the sauce. Overall, a very tasty meal. OK, let's hope that I do not get sick later. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N-05RSXUPv...via+-+2212.jpg After eating lunch we took a stroll around the village. There was a lot of activity. People were transporting good, vendors were set up along the streets. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PaKUU_h6SO...via+-+2195.jpg There were predominantly woven ponchos, bags and belts. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vhc0FzpV2C...via+-+2237.jpg The artisans take colorful yard like this... http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqwwY-16__...via+-+2197.jpg And weave it into amazing textiles like this. As well I saw a few charangos, which are traditional Andean musical instruments with a sound somewhat similar to a ukulele. Typically made from the shell of an armadillo, thankfully these charangos were made of wood. While in the market I came across another tourist from Europe. He exclaimed that he was disappointed in the market because the street venders were only interested in trying to sell him things. Hmmmm... I thought to myself for a moment.... then I mentioned to him... well this is a "market"... a place to buy and sell things. I understood what he meant, but thought that his comment was a bit odd. As expected, there were a number of items made especially for tourists. However, these dolls appeared to be more traditional and perhaps for other purposes. Russell and I continued walking around, just taking in the local culture. Here are two gentlemen sitting inside the doorway of a store, just chatting and drinking one of the local concoctions. Granadina Salvietti If you wander around long enough in Tarabuco or get directions from a local, you might find the real local market. Where they sell real chacos made from the tread of old tires. They sell items in bulk.... like coca leaves (used for chewing, tea, medicine and occasionally other uses). Stylish felt hats Chili peppers Balms for all types of ailments. Offerings for the Pachamama. The Pachamama has a special worship day called Martes de challa (Challa's Tuesday), when people bury food, throw candies, and burn incense. In some cases, celebrants assist traditional priests, known as yatiris in Aymara, in performing ancient rites to bring good luck or the good will of the goddess. This man dressed in a traditional outfit was buying grain by the bulk. In this area of the market I did not see any tourists, just locals going about their regular routine of shopping. As I was walking down the street this scene caught my eye. It was a blacksmith's shop. The natural light from the outside was casting light inside the workshop perfectly to highlight the anvil. The furnace was stoked, the craftsman's tools were hanging on the wall, and remnants of the man's work laid about the floor. It was a scene strait out of the 1800's. We met the blacksmith. Russell was about to take a photo of the man, when the blacksmith interjected... he wanted money for a photo. There was an awkward pause. I do not think either us wanted to pay for a photo. I reengaged the man. I said that I was interested in his workshop, because I had never seen a shop like his. He explained that he made mostly horseshoes and pick axes for agriculture use. He proudly showed me a few of his products. I said that I was interested in buying a horseshoe. He said that he would sell four for 40 Bolivianos. I said that I only wanted one. He looked puzzled. I think that typically anyone buying horseshoes for a horse would buy four or at least two. He said that he would sell me two for 20 Bolivianos. I said once again that I only wanted one and handed him 10 Bolivianos. He took my money, I took a horseshoe. We shook hands. I then asked him if I could take a photo of him and his workshop. He stood proudly and said ok. He then went into a demonstration of how he stoked the furnace to heat the steal. And, how he pounded the steel to form a shape. Amazing. See video Here is a short 1 minute video with the master at work. Russell and I walked around a little more. Then called it a day and rode back to Sucre. There seems to be layers in life in Bolivia. Sometimes one just needs to slow down, wander, perhaps get lost to uncover the really good parts. For the full story with photos visit Tarabuco, Bolivia... Textiles, Pulmón and a Lucky Horseshoe |
The Adventure Begins... Sure... I Am Always Willing To Help Out A Buddy
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I introduced you to Russell in my previous post. We met in Sucre and took a nice little day trip to see a colorful market in Trabuco, Bolivia. It seems that Randall had gone "walkabout" in the mountain area outside of Sucre for a few days. He had returned to Sucre, but had lost his jacket somewhere out in the wilderness. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WJjV__syo9...via+-+2048.jpg Well, I had been staying in Sucre for about two weeks, just seeing the sights and relaxing. I had seen and done just about everything that I wanted to do... and was ready to move on to the next destination. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v71_s-vfSC...via+-+2316.jpg Then Russell came up to me and asked if I wanted to go on another little ride. A mission to recover his jacket from the wilderness. I had already packed my bag and was ready to leave Sucre. But... I said, "Sure... I'm always willing to help out a buddy." http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JhVOjSQLpx...via+-+2383.jpg So I dropped my bag, filled up my tank, filled up my extra tank too... and we headed down the road. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ap7M9p3QVP...via+-+2319.jpg Which after about an hour of riding turned into a winding dirt road. We would be heading through the Cordillera de los Frailes, a spectacular mountain range that runs through much of the western Chuquisaca and northern Potosí departments. We would hopefully pass by the dramatic Maragua Crater. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rH5sIeyD9C...a+-+Potolo.jpg A...marks the village of Potolo. Russell thought that the jacket was close to Potolo. From google maps there was no road... heck, there was not even a dot to mark the village of Potolo. Sucre is on the right. The Maragua Crater is in the middle. From Sucre there was a road that headed north and west, but it ended after about 100 km (60 miles). From that point, it would be all dirt. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f7rfzz2HW7...via+-+2318.jpg Fortunately, I had brought my gps with me and was tracking our route. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cm6TNWGDrL...via+-+2333.jpg The road continued and wound through some beautiful mountain ranges. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YgC2W76kE1...via+-+2334.jpg We would capture these glances at mountains and valleys and vistas. We rode for about 3 or 4 hours. There was no turning back... we were on a mission. We finally arrived at the small one road town called Potolo. Potolo was a village that mainly consisted of substance farming. There was one cafe in the town, but it was not open. We went to the one kiosk that was open and had lunch which consisted of crackers and a can of tuna. From Potolo we headed deeper into the valley. Russell said that he thought that we were close, so we rode along this embankment further into the valley. This photo puts it into better perspective. Yeah, I think we just need to follow this semi dry river bed to get to the jacket. OK Russell, you lead and I'll follow. Off we went down the river. See video Here is a short 30 second video of riding through the dry riverbed. I could not complain because it was fun riding in the dirt with a riding partner. So many times I have had to ride through some sketchy areas alone. At least if we were to get lost, we would get lost together. We rode on... Yeah, I think that it is down there. We will need to leave our bikes here and go down by foot. Sure enough, the jacket was there. But it was just out of reach... on the other side of the canyon. The canyon spanned from about 6 feet to about 100 feet. Russell went walkabout looking for a way to cross the canyon to the other side. We eventually found a route that seemed approachable. Russell just needed to climb this crevasse that was about 40 feet high, at a 60 degree angle, and consisted of loose shale. He did it. Once he crossed the canyon, it was easy reaching the jacket. Mission accomplished! Oh, and then he needed to jump across the canyon back to the other side. This was possible because the right side of the canyon was higher than the left side of the canyon. It still makes a pretty dramatic photo, don't you think? OK, now it is mission accomplished. But we still needed to return to Sucre. It was about a 3 to 4 hour ride back to Sucre. We rode by much of the same beautiful scenery that we had passed by on our outbound route. It was late in the afternoon. The sun eventually set and we had to ride in the dark for about 2 hours. On one narrow stretch, a bus came hauling around a corner on the single lane road occupying most of the right of way. He pretty much ran me into the uphill side of the mountain. Luckily, we did not make contact and I was able to recover. We arrived into Sucre sometime after 8 o'clock. What a day! Sure, I am always willing to help out a buddy. Stay warm... my friend...stay warm. For the full story with photos and video visit Sure... I Am Always Willing To Help Out A Buddy |
The Adventure Begins... 2012 Cologne, Germany motorcycle show highlights
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Here is a short 3 minute video with highlights from the 2012 Cologne, Germany motorcycle show. They highlight three new adventure motorcycles from Suzuki, BMW and KTM. Check it out! |
The Adventure Begins... Exiting Bolivia...with Some Unexpected Stops
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I had a great time in Sucre, but it was time to move on. I was at point A (Sucre) and wanted to go to point B (El Chaco) in Paraguay. In general there is not much tourist information about Paraguay, and even less about El Chaco. El Chaco is a vast and isolated area in the north of Paraguay. I was not having much success finding reliable information about the border crossings, check points and roads to determine which would be the best route. There was even less information about places to stay, but I thought that I could figure that out once I arrived in Paraguay. In Sucre, I asked a hotel owner and he did not know. I asked the tourist information office and they did not know. Finally, I stopped by the police station to find out which route the buses generally travel. I was told that one could cross in the north via Robore, but there was no check point. One could cross in the middle via Boyuibe, but there was no check point. The typical route that the buses take was via the city of Villamontes. It was the only route that had a reliable check point. This meant that I would have to travel south, then east, then north. Who's up for a little adventure? http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5c1jCnLWLS...via+-+2387.jpg And so I set off. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nu9vX0DMZQ...via+-+2389.jpg I rode through some majestic areas...mostly dirt roads... green mountains along the way. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QQiJcxCt8P...via+-+2393.jpg After about 4 hours of riding, I came across this little obstacle. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r1TpeKEbw7...via+-+2392.jpg I was not sure if the tree had fallen accidentally and the people were clearing the brush out of good will. Or if the man had cut down the tree for firewood and now was trying to clean up the mess. Either way, the tree was blocking the road and it was taking the group of three a long time to clear the obstacle. I was the only person on my side of the tree. There was a group of three or four cars on the other side of the tree. To hurry things along, I decided that I would help to clear the brush. I got off my bike and started moving the big branches. It turned out that my motorcycle gloves were functioning pretty nicely as work gloves. After about 30 minutes we had moved enough of the brush out of the way so that my motorcycle and other cars could pass. Funny thing, some of the drivers in the cars got out of their cars to watch, but none of the drivers helped to clear the tree. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EmTstPec7S...via+-+2420.jpg I rode on. I had starting riding at 8am in the morning and it was now about 7pm in the evening. It was starting to turn dark. It had been a full day of riding when I came upon a small village called Bourgue. At least I believe that was the name of the village. The village was so small that I have had trouble finding it on Google Maps. For some reason there was a check point. I pulled up to the check point and got off my bike. I asked the guard if there was any place in the village where I might be able to stay for the night and set up my tent. He directed me to next door to a little store with an enclosed yard. I walked around the corner to see what I could find out. As in many small villages in Bolivia, the store was basically the front room of a house. There were a few odds and ends of basic neccesities...soap, matches, cooking oil. The owner appeared to be the lady of the house. I was hungry, so I first glanced around to see if there was anything that looked appetizing. Glancing over the shelves there was not much - some chips, candy, canned food. The woman opened up a box and showed me a half butchered pig. I could tell that it was a pig because the head was still attached to the body. Looked interesting, but I said...no. She pointed to some eggs. I shook my head...no. Then she uncovered at a large bag filled with loaves of bread. I shook my head in approval. She also pointed at a can of sardines on the shelf. Bread and fish out of a can... it was starting to grow on me. I said that I would take three loaves of bread and a can of sardines. It seemed to make her happy that she was able to help me find something to eat. I then asked the lady if there was anyplace where I might be able to stay and set up my tent. She said that I could stay in her yard. I pointed to a clearing in the dirt yard and inquired if it would be a good location. She said that I was welcome to set up my tent under her porch. I accepted the offer and said thank you. I then moved my motorcycle inside the yard and started to set up camp. By this time it was completely dark. There was no moon out. There were no lights in the village. I guess that it was a bit unusual to have a traveler visiting this area... let alone a guy on a motorcycle. I mean, why would anyone stop in this small village that lied along a dirt road in the middle of nowhere. A crowd started to gather. There were old men, women, teens and some kids. It was hard to make out the expressions on the people's faces because it was so dark, but they seemed to be enjoying the experience of watching this extranjero (stranger) set up camp. Of course I got the usual questions... Where are you from? What are you doing here? Do you like Bolivia? Where are you going? How much did your motorcycle cost? How much did your tent cost? Are you Chinese? When people ask me if I am Chinese I always share that I am ethnically Chinese, but that I was born in the United States... a Chino Americano. Some people get it, some people don't. I asked the group, now numbering about 15 people, if they had even had ever seen an actual Chinese person. Most of the group said...no. There were three teens that raised their hands eagerly and said that they had seen Chinese people before. I asked them where. They said that they studied in Sucre and had seen Chinese tourists in the city. Cool, I pondered a bit. I asked the group if they had ever eaten Chinese food. There was silence. Nobody responded. Then one lady asked me what was Chinese food. I tried my best to explain. I said that there are basic ingredients like chicken or beef, vegetables like carrots, onion, scallions, and that all the ingredients are cut up into small pieces then cooked together in a big pot called a wok. She said that it sounded like some of the food that they made. I said that the seasonings and flavors might be different. One lady was really curious and asked if I knew how to cook Chinese food. I said that I knew how to cook a few dishes. She asked if I could teach her. Without really thinking... I said yes. Hmmmm... then I thought. Was she serious. I asked her if she was serious. She said that she really would like to learn. Hmmmm... I asked her... right now? She said that I could do it the following day. Well, I was not really planning to stay around this small town for much time. But, I was so overcome by the eagerness and openness of this small village that I said... okay. I inquired if they had chicken... yes... rice... yes... onions... yes... carrots... yes... salt... yes... pepper... yes... oil... yes. And then I said we had all the ingredients, but usually I would use a sauce we call... soya (soy sauce). The lady said with great eagerness... we have soya! Wow, I knew that there were many places in Bolivia that had soy sauce, but I was surprised to that they would have it in this small village. We live in a global village. We continued to talk while I set up my camp. But it was settled... I would teach the village how to prepare Chinese food the next day. After setting up my camp, it was time to eat. The crowd sensed that I was about to eat, so it started to disperse. I proceeded to open the can of sardines and break the bread. There were still a few people hanging around watching me. I offered them some of my newly acquired sardines and bread. Two of the teens accepted my offer. So I shared my food and we had a nice little meal. I was glad that I had some people with which to share the sardines, because after a few bites, I knew that there was no way that I would be able to eat the whole can. Between the three of us, we eventually finished the food. Nothing went to waste. Then it was time to go to sleep. I said good night to all my new friends and crawled into my tent. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ew0Eq3Zvt4...via+-+2399.jpg The next morning I awoke. This is the house/store/yard where I had camped for the night. I packed up my things and prepped my motorcycle. Some of the townspeople were hanging around watching me. I asked them kind of half heartedly if they still wanted me to teach them how to cook Chinese food. Yes! the ladies replied. Okay, brunch would be served! So I rattled off a list of the ingredients and asked them to compile them. I asked them how many people might be interested in cooking and eating. The one lady that was kind of the coordinator said... Oh, probably about 15. Wow, 15 people. I have cooked for 8 to 10 people in my house before, but never 15. And I've always had all the proper ingredients, utensils and kitchen space. This was going to be interesting. It took the group a little time to run around the village and gather all the ingredients. We moved to another house to do the cooking. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbwSdDqtM3...via+-+2400.jpg As I walked through the open courtyard and up to the house, I saw this scene. Two of the young girls had killed a chicken, boiled it to remove the feathers and were plucking the remaining feathers. It was probably the freshest chicken that I had ever cooked. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4CuOdyTo2A...via+-+2401.jpg I then proceeded to show the group how to cut the vegetables and chicken into small pieces. They had all the basic ingredients and most of them had been grown right around the village. If you look closely you will even notice that they had a bottle of soy sauce. For some reason they had brought mayonnaise and catchup. I told them that those ingredients would not be necessary. Also, a number of times they asked me if we would need any potatoes. I said... no. Potatoes are a staple food in Bolivia and are eaten with just about every meal. There are hundreds of varieties of potatoes that are grown in the country. Unfortunately, for this recipe we would not be using any potatoes. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ao1i9K7PS0...via+-+2402.jpg After a little time, we had all the food prepped and we were ready to begin cooking. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-64LwC6Y0MV...via+-+2403.jpg I had never cooked Chinese food over an open fire. It was definitely a new experience. The heat was intense. I found it difficult to get close enough to the fire to stir fry the ingredients. Eventually, I turned over the responsibility of stirring the dish to one of the ladies. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EpE-_Ac2G4...via+-+2404.jpg In the end, it all worked out. We made a big pot full of chicken fried rice. I think that there were about 10 people that showed up to eat. They all said that they really enjoyed it. I do not know if they really enjoyed it or if they were just being polite. But... in the end... all the food was finished. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OtXh3ImVPR...via+-+2405.jpg Here is the core group of women that I taught how to cook the meal. People that I have encountered along my way have been so willing to share their culture with me, it was nice to share a little bit of my culture with this community. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j-75-UW5Ob...via+-+2406.jpg It was time to leave... so I said my good-byes. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I0tDLG2mFz...via+-+2412.jpg I headed down the road. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WKKf2QeD3A...via+-+2408.jpg I followed a dirt road, which followed alongside a river. I had been riding over a lot of rough roads in Bolivia. I heard a little rattling noise coming from my bike. I stopped to inspect it. I noticed that a spot weld that connects my rear rack and case to my motorcycle frame had separated. It was not a crucial mechanical weld, but it did support the weight of my rear case. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8_5_LGGuhZ...via+-+2417.jpg In the next town I passed called Monteagudo I sought out a soldidura (welder). I found this one man shop and explained the issue. He said that he could help me. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jepWsDidlg...via+-+2415.jpg I backed my motorcycle into the shop. The welder went to work. The work was complete within 5 minutes. Simple roadside repair in Bolivia. It cost me $15 Bolivianos (US$2). http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kRHIchYl5C...via+-+2418.jpg I rode on...traveled for about an hour... until I came across this fallen tree. At this spot there was a crew with some heavy equipment moving the brush. It was all cleared in about 5 minutes. I rode on for another 3 or 4 hours to a town called Camiri where I stayed the night. I found an inexpensive hotel... ate a decent meal... and rested. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QxQQ-nnHLx...via+-+2419.jpg In the morning, I left Camiri and traveled for about 2 hours south to the town of Villamontes. In Villamontes I stopped for lunch. With a full stomach, I headed east to the border of Paraguay. |
Great story Troy!
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Hello Im kevin from montevideo uruguay me and my father we travelled all across southamerica many times also we have a workshop I if want to visit there is no problem also we are offering bike storage in uruguay customs give you one year to leave the bike anything contact at lemes54@hotmail.com ride safely
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The Adventure Begins... El Chaco, Paraguay...Lots to See in the Middle of Nowhere
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From the town of Villamontes, Bolivia I traveled east along a dirt road. There was absolutely no traffic for miles and miles. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v9By9l2pWV...guay+-+017.jpg In the middle of nowhere I came across some motivational signs. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6DIoisoDKq...guay+-+012.jpg Sigue Adelante (Keep moving forward) http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kPlQSxvUUA...guay+-+019.jpg Another one. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ql-oQtqbjs...guay+-+020.jpg Un Poco Mas (A little more) http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WCvGuJNyuS...guay+-+021.jpg Another one. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FxMhCD73RA...guay+-+022.jpg Llegaste! (You've arrived!) I was not exactly sure where I had arrived. There still was nothing around. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Js1qft_I7G...guay+-+007.jpg At another place along the road I came across this tree. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DOP9PqztiN...guay+-+008.jpg Someone had some paint and had some fun. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jgps93aoUI...guay+-+023.jpg I continued on down the road to the border and finally arrived at the Bolivian immigration office. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jQ1qJKcT5l...guay+-+025.jpg It was a pretty small open air office. I was the only person crossing the border. Checking out of Bolivia was a snap... it took all of 2 minutes. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CgnAp8xWVS...guay+-+027.jpg I rode a little further down the road to the integrated Bolivian/Paraguayan aduanas (customs) office. It was about 3pm and the office appeared deserted. I looked around a bit and found a travel trailer. I could see that someone was inside laying on a bed. I called to summon the person. Out of the trailer emerged the Bolivian immigration officer in a tank top, bermuda shorts and flip flops. I assumed that this was a pretty laid back post. He reviewed my documents and checked me out of the country. I then asked if he knew where the Paraguayan official might be. He pointed to a small house around the corner. I walked around the corner and up to the house and called out. Out of the house emerged the immigration officer. He was dressed casually, wearing a pull over shirt and jeans. He asked me to fill out a form and shortly thereafter he provided me my temporary driving permit for Paraguay. This was perhaps the most casual and remote customs office that I have passed through on my journey. Pretty nice. The Paraguayan immigration office was not in the same area. From what I could gather I would need to travel about 90 miles (150 km) to a city called Mariscal to pass through immigration. I rode on... A little further down the road I came across a Paraguayan military checkpoint. There was one car behind me. The military officer asked for my passport and documents. I handed him my passport and temporary driving permit. The officer also gathered the same documents from the car behind me. He took both sets of our documents inside his office. A few minutes later he emerged from the office. He proceeded directly to the car behind me, returned their documents and waived them through. I thought... uh oh... it was a bit odd that he would first give the car behind me their documents and waive them through. I was in the middle of nowhere... with nobody around. I had an intuition as to what was about to occur. The officer approached me. With a friendly demeanor, he struck up a conversation. He started asking me about where I had traveled, where I was going, about my motorcycle. I answered all his question with a smile on my face and brief responses. He eventually came around to the question... do you have a gift for the military? Hmmm... a gift. I smiled and said that I really did not have anything that I did not need. It was the truth... I travel light. I said all that I had with me were my clothes and tools for my motorcycle. He smiled and inquired... nothing. I said with a smile... nothing. He looked me over and spotted a carabiner hanging on my pants. He said... how about that. I said... I need this to keep my keys. He smiled. With that I cranked on my motorcycle and said... estamos bien? He waved me on. I rode on... It started to turn dark. I arrived in a small town called San Pedro. It was basically an intersection with a few houses scattered about... and there was a police checkpoint. Before the policeman could signal me to pull over. I signaled with my indicator lights and pulled up right in front of the officer. I turned off my engine, got off my bike and took off my helmet. I think that it surprised him to see a extranjero (foreigner). That is what I wanted to do. I wanted to manage the situation. Then I asked him if there was a hotel in the area. He said... no... not one where you would want to stay. I understood what he intended... the only hotel in this small town was a pay by the hour hotel. He asked me where I was going... I told him that I was going to the Parque Agripino Encino. He said that it was not too far down the road... maybe 10 miles (15 km) and to the right. He said go straight, then when you see the sign, turn right. We continued our conversation for a while. I asked him if the road was in good condition. He said that the road turned to dirt in about 100 yards (100 meters), but the dirt was compacted and in good condition. He said that the park was only about 30 to 45 minutes away. Generally, in all the countries that I have visited, I have found the immigration, customs, police and military to be very helpful. I have never been taken advantage of. A lot of travelers and adventure motorcyclists complain about corrupt officials, but I have had nothing but positive experiences. I think that it helps to speak the language. Also, I think that it helps to control the situation and direct the conversation by asking them for assistance. It creates a situation in which they are in the role of a service provider. I have used this technique many times and it always seems to work out well. I decided that I would ride on in the dark... on the dirt road... to find the park... to camp. Before I set off into the wild, I stopped at the only open store/restaurant/bar in town. The proprietor said that she did not have any hot food, just dry goods. I looked over the shelves and picked up some water, crackers, a can of tuna and some oranges. The oranges were a score. This would be my food for the coming days. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BRRoUSXgxf...guay+-+030.jpg With supplies in hand and a vague idea of where to go... I rode on... into the unknown. I eventually came up to a sign that said Agripino Encio 80_ and a road on the right. It was just as the police officer had indicated. It was dark, but it appeared that there was a space after the numbers 80. It looked like a number or letter had been removed. I did not know how to interpret it. I just figured that I would ride down the road a little and soon find the park. I turned right and headed down the road. I rode on. I started to have doubts. Did the sign indicate 80 meters or 800 meters or 8 kilometers or 80 kilometers. I did not see anything that resembled a park entrance at around 80 meters or 800 meters. But, why would they use 800 meters instead of 0.8 kilometers. The main road was hard packed dirt, but this side road was loose sand. It was dark... it was late... it was sandy... it was the middle of El Chaco. My odometer displays miles not kilometers, so I convert everything in my head. My odometer indicated that I had ridden 214 miles since I last filled my tank with gas. Under good conditions, I could obtain 250 miles with a full tank of gas. Which meant ideally, I had about 35 miles of gas in my tank and 15 miles of gas in my spare tank. I decided that I would ride for 8 km, then turn back. I knew that I had already traveled 15 km to the sign... 15 km plus 8 km would be 23 km. 23 km is equal to about 15 miles. Following? Thus, I could ride up to 15 miles, then turn around and ride 15 miles back if needed. That would equal 30 miles. Got it? Then, I would need to find a gas station to fill up with gas. I was doing this math in my mind while I was riding in the dark. I started to second guess myself. I ran the numbers again in my mind... yes... I should be okay. I discovered that in El Chaco one can see a number of nocturnal animals while riding in the middle of nowhere. I saw some lizards, rodents, armadillos, foxes, an owl and some kind of pig like animal. I saw one small black cat. I thought that it was just a feral or domestic cat, but I later would learn that it might have been a Jaguarundi. Of course, I could not capture any of these animals in photos. As soon as I could see them in my headlight, they would dart back into the darkness. I rode on... until I crossed 8 km... still no park. It had been tricky riding in the sand. I was tired. It was late. I had been riding all day and did not feel like riding further. I decided that I would find a place along the road and camp. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wtLAL8bOdZ...guay+-+031.jpg I found a spot along the road, set up my tent, and ate dinner... crackers and tuna and oranges. The road was only about 12 feet across (4 meters). I was a little concerned that a passing car or truck might hit me. I set up my motorcycle so that the reflectors on the body of my motorcycle would hopefully catch the eye of any driver. I slept. At about 1am in the morning I heard an approaching car. I turned on my flashlight which illuminated my tent. It kind of worked like a giant glow balloon. The truck slowed down and passed by safely. That would be the only traffic for the entire night. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fc6Ne4OoYv...guay+-+038.jpg The next morning I woke up at about 6 am. This was my campsite. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZWIu2R7HOK...guay+-+032.jpg I looked to the east and saw a wonderful sunrise. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Urcd2_cQGy...guay+-+043.jpg I stood still... watched... listened... and breathed. |
The Adventure Begins... Parque Nacional Teniente Agripino Enciso, Paraguay
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After a night of roadside camping and the sun rising over my shoulder, I rode back down the dirt road retracing my tracks. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jchu8mvZSH...guay+-+056.jpg I made it back to the main road. I found the intersection where I had turned... and the sign for Parque Agripino Encino. And, I even found the park. It appears that the sign was placed to mark the turn into the park. However, the entrance was 80 meters straight and then to the right. I thought to myself... why would they place the sign right before the dirt road... it was a mystery to me. When I arrived at the park I asked the park ranger this very question. He said that a number of people make the same mistake and turn right at the road. I asked why they do not move the sign to the other side of the intersection... it would solve the problem. He just shrugged his shoulders. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yCP9X04lw5...guay+-+067.jpg Happy that I had finally reached the park and officially in El Chaco, I went for a walk around the area. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yAg5BBvGl9...guay+-+076.jpg What I discovered was that El Chaco does not have a lot of striking scenery like the Andes or extreme scenery like the Patagonia or wildlife like the Amazon. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HKKgVqWW91...guay+-+072.jpg But, there was a lot of very subtle elements to the area that made me pause. I had to look closely. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yxaS10idv5...guay+-+068.jpg I would not call this beautiful, but interesting. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xx9GS-3hSi...guay+-+078.jpg Cacti were common. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VDOlNTuzmR...guay+-+066.jpg And uncommonly unique in their own way. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2f4yRl9zzZ...guay+-+063.jpg Some little things that I have never seen before. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xj0KGo3PEX...guay+-+062.jpg Like this crazy tree with a thousand spikes up its trunk. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zqvz54fb0X...guay+-+064.jpg Like this tree with bark like curly locks. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mfrhB48Tzy...guay+-+077.jpg And a birds nest made of thistles and thorns amongst the arms of a cactus. Ahhhh... El Chaco...Paraguay. |
The Adventure Begins... Filadelphia and Loma Plata, Paraguay... Habla Alemán?
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From El Chaco I rode south. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BiuHFQ15vV...guay+-+146.jpg The dirt road eventually turned into an asphalt road. In the town of Mariscal stopped and checked in with the Paraguayan Migration (Immigration) to get my passport stamped. No worries, it was a quick and easy process. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RSpi6lR3g3...guay+-+086.jpg As I was exiting the town I passed by this sign. Being from Texas, I had to check this out. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kyurfwbI_f...guay+-+087.jpg I located the restaurant and decide to take a break for lunch. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7uh70kdyEy...guay+-+088.jpg On the inside, the restaurant had this sign. The image on the left is the logo of my alma mater... The University of Texas at Austin. The image on the right is a classic logo of the Marlboro Man. I met the owners of the restaurant. It turns out the owners were not from Texas at all. It was a married couple, the man was German and the woman was Thai. I asked them how they came up with the name and theme for the restaurant. They said that they used to live in Filadelphia, a town down the road, and bought the restaurant from another family. They moved the restaurant to Mariscal because they felt that there was to much competition in Filadelphia. Fair enough, I asked them what they had on the menu that was from Texas. The lady said that they hamburgers and spaghetti. Well, it was not quite the authentic Texas culinary experience that I was hoping for, but I wished them well. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kV4ENKROtz...guay+-+090.jpg I was actually traveling to the town of Filadelphia and the Mennonite colonies. Filadelfia is the capital of Boquerón Department in the El Chaco. It is the centre of the Fernheim Colony. It is about a 5 hour drive from the capital of Asunción. The town of Filadelphia and this part of El Chaco had an interesting history. Filadelfia was founded in 1930 by Mennonites who fled from the Soviet Union because of religious persecution. The journey to Paraguay was extremely difficult. Their destination, set aside by Paraguayan government decree, was completely undeveloped. Travel was exhausting: a steamboat was taken up the Paraguay River to Puerto Casado, from where a narrow gauge railway went 150 km (93 mi) west into the Chaco bush. From there it was a few more long days of travel by oxcart to their settlement area. Over decades, the Mennonites turned a dry and thistle covered area into fertile farmland. The economic base of Fernheim is agriculture and processing of agricultural products. The most important products are cotton, peanuts, beef, milk and dairy products. Filadelfia lay near the front of the Chaco War, but was little affected due to the pacifist beliefs and customs of the Mennonites. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JOsNGSM81_...guay+-+105.jpg Today the town has a city hall, museum, a library, a radio station and other structures. The colony's villages lie around Filadelfia, as do several native reserves, home to much of the area's native population, from the Chulupí, Lengua, Toba-Pilaga, Sanapaná and Ayoreo groups. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dBk4rVhB2C...guay+-+103.jpg The hospital http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NMBR3LZ5PT...guay+-+102.jpg The pharmacy http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9N4U9yrkXF...guay+-+099.jpg The elementary school http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sAr-wuoxU0...guay+-+100.jpg A park and playground http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OBJXyYJX-U...guay+-+101.jpg The houses tended to be rather large, to accommodate the families with numerous children, but were simple and utilitarian in design. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pYas3jFdrj...guay+-+097.jpg The center point for the whole town and community was the large and modern cooperative supermarket. It was like a compact Walmart selling everything from groceries to auto parts to agricultural products. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8lERmR7Kc6...guay+-+096.jpg The colonial museam http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BJXrYk7-sA...guay+-+095.jpg An old clock housed at the museum. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9xzxcHw0Rc...guay+-+114.jpg An antique coffee grinder. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TRojAOjr1n...guay+-+113.jpg A telephone from the era. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4G9vPWBwHx...guay+-+138.jpg I visited another town of the Mennonite colonies called Loma Plata. It was the first colony of Canadian immigrants in the region and was founded in 1927. It is an important urban and administrative center for the Cooperatives Menno. It is the base of the huge dairy cooperative known as Trebol. Supposedly this area produces something like 80% of the agricultural exports for the country of Paraguay. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vUxAwgTT2I...guay+-+116.jpg There was another colonial museum in the town of Loma Plata. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MIa2vqkBrm...guay+-+109.jpg A monument dedicated the founding of the colony http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kk0_RdbiIo...guay+-+115.jpg A museum with displays about the founding and struggle to develop the city. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XfTQtss5Ez...guay+-+112.jpg A rustic colonial style house. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hwia25F-Ft...guay+-+117.jpg A basic horse drawn wagon form the good old days. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0iIGeQfbPi...guay+-+111.jpg Rudimentary plows and farm instruments used by settlers. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ny0S42GbWy...guay+-+119.jpg One of the great things about the accommodation in the Mennonite colonies was they tended to serve nice German style buffet breakfasts. Prior to visiting these Mennonite colonies I thought that the population would be 80% Indigenous and 20% German Mennonite. However, the population breakdown was probably a reverse of these percentages - with the larger percentage of the population being Mennonite. |
The Adventure Begins... Central Chaco Lagoons...From a Bird's Eye Perspective.
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I traveled south through an area known as the Central Chaco Lagoons. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-35MmUSv0NP...guay+-+121.jpg Higher rainfall combined with improperly drained lowland soils lead to a somewhat swampy plain, sometimes known as Chaco Húmedo or Humid Chaco, with a more open savanna vegetation consisting of palm trees, quebracho trees and tropical high grass areas with a wealth of insects. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y7XTuT4Ow5...guay+-+126.jpg The area was rich with various types of birdlife. It was difficult to get close enough to the birds to take good photos. As soon as I stopped my motorcycle, the birds would fly to another location. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OsFbwMc4w7...guay+-+123.jpg For serious bird watchers, in El Chaco, one can find Black-legged Seriema, Black-bodied Woodpecker, Chaco Owl, Quebracho Crested Tinamou, Crested Gallito and Spot-winged Falconet. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jfIeAEDNI3...guay+-+124.jpg It looked like the surrounding environment was the perfect habitat for insects, reptiles and fish that could serve as a food source for all the birds. I just found it interesting how many different types of birds I saw within a short distance of riding. |
The Adventure Begins... Concepcion... A Port Town Along The River Paraguay
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I visited the town of Concepcion that lies along the Paraguay River. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8oS9wHuJN-...guay+-+158.jpg Concepción is a city in northern Paraguay and capital of the Concepción Department. Throughout the town there were examples of colonial style architecture such as this government building. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3K9ol0GHBe...guay+-+159.jpg Founded by a Spanish Governor, named Agustín Fernado de Pinedo, the town prospered in the early years of the 20th century, as a centre for the north of the country, exploiting the new wealth of the Gran Chaco, and a river port. On a number of the street corners there were large houses that at one time were occupied by the wealthy merchant families. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t0krRyUibv...guay+-+168.jpg Today, Concepcion is a bustling little town with an active market. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MhDNBx_zbB...guay+-+156.jpg The town was also a centre for the Paraguayan Civil War of 1947. I visited the Museo Municipal (Municipal Museum) which contained items from the Civil War and Chaco War. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RpxMVkBqAX...guay+-+153.jpg There were various maps on display that demonstrated the territory and the changes in the territory before and after the wars. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2cwmgiqFfT...guay+-+155.jpg There were also some artifacts from the indigenous groups that have lived around the area. Concepcion is located along the Paraguay River. There were barges moving up and down the river carrying all types of goods. I took a walk along the river and saw a barge being unloaded by the dock workers. The workers one by one were carrying large bags of goods on their shoulders from the boat across a plank to a cargo truck on the shore. It was a rudimentary manner of moving the goods, but for me it made a nice visual image. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Q4GJhtg-m...guay+-+150.jpg After walking around the town, I enjoyed a meal of chicken and yuca in a small restaurant. The food was okay, but what I found interesting was that the owner of the restaurant simply parked his motorcycle inside the dining area of the restaurant. Got to love it. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D2K-efeHeR...guay+-+147.jpg I thought that I would show a little love to my motorcycle. Emi was dirty from riding all the dirt roads in El Chaco, so I decided to have her cleaned up at a local car wash. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HxZInTBQIf...guay+-+160.jpg It seemed like everyone in Concepcion commuted by motorcycle. The majority of the motorcycles that I saw on the road were small, either 125cc or 250cc, motos made in China. This motorcycle store was receiving and unloading a new shipment of motos. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l1Z5XwJtRM...guay+-+165.jpg I saw this new three wheel sport utility moto that I thought was nice. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xHh-iWR05Q...guay+-+161.jpg And the old school version. There were a number of horse drawn wagons in Concepcion used for transporting goods and people. |
The Adventure Begins... La Laguna Blanca... Red Sand to White Sand
While I was in Bolivia I heard from another traveler that there was a nice nature area to visit in Paraguay called La Laguna Blanca. I made a mental note and promised myself that if I was near the area I would try to visit it. While in Concepcion I tried to look for information about La Laguna Blanca. I asked a few locals, but they had not heard of the area. I searched online and found a little information.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g5UBU_telk...gunablanca.jpg The google map was not too helpful. I was in Concepcion (point A) and wanted to go to Laguna Blanca (point B). It indicated that there was no road reaching La Laguna Blanca from highway 3. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QrFReolHDy...guay+-+172.jpg I searched around a little bit more online and found these written directions... "From the crossroad at Santa Rosa del Aguaray take a 27 kilometers long pebbled road towards East. In dry weather the trip can be made in car; otherwise it should be made in high-clearance vehicles." Hmmm... I thought that Emi, my motorcycle, could be considered a high-clearance vehicle... she has a suspension with10 inches of clearance. I also found this map from the Rancho Laguna Blanca website. I was pretty sure that the map was not to scale, but it had some nice landmarks (puentes, agua, porton) for reference. So with these three pieces of information I would try to triangulate my way to La Laguan Blanca. And, if some of you are wondering, my GPS was useless when I tried to locate La Laguna Blanca. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UplXGCCBzW...guay+-+146.jpg Just as the google map indicated, there was an asphalt highway from Concepcion to the town of Santa Rosa. I stocked up on some groceries at one of the local stores. I had trouble finding the crossroad that would lead to the pebbled road, so I stopped and asked a couple of people for directions. When I ask for directions I always like to ask at least two different people... just to confirm. The first person that I asked gave me some hand signals and directions. The second person that I asked was a motorcyclist. He gave me some hand signals and directions and said that he was heading in the same direction. So off we went. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-apCxsB8RdR...guay+-+173.jpg The pebbled road was actually more of a dirt and sand road. The sand was a rich red color...quite stunning next to the green vegetation of the countryside. It had been raining over the past few days, so the road was not in the best of conditions. Most of the puddles were only an inch deep, but some of the puddles were a foot deep. I tried to ride around most of the big puddles. Just as the written directions had indicated... "for high-clearance vehicles". http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xeQdV0lmBZ...guay+-+271.jpg And, just as the graphical map indicated, I would pass over a number of bridges. The bridge in this photo was in relatively good condition compared to some of the other bridges. I rode quickly over the bridges so that I would not fall through the cracks. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZyTulNtR_k...guay+-+174.jpg I eventually came across a sign and intersection. I actually passed this intersection at first and had to double back after riding a few miles. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GakOTd_b2c...guay+-+175.jpg I rode down this winding dirt road and would disappear into the forest. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SgtcdGjXRD...guay+-+176.jpg The narrow path that led through the forest was fun. It was muddy and filled with puddles, but Emi seemed to handle it well. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w8Lgr7CpL6...guay+-+178.jpg At one point along this path, I came across a gate. See the yellow things along the side of the road. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lsfPXQFz9y...guay+-+180.jpg There were hundreds of yellow butterflies waiting by the gate to welcome me into the park. They fluttered by in salute. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z5BTYsgS2h...guay+-+264.jpg I eventually arrived at La Laguna Blanca. From red sand to white sand. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yV_2G4EK71...guay+-+262.jpg This beach umbrella and lounge chairs were beckoning me. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3-mLaqyqvq...guay+-+182.jpg I found a place to park my bike, set up camp, ate dinner and watched the sun disappear on the horizon. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lFCcEzKSQL...guay+-+267.jpg The next morning I was greeted by this little guy. He was the pet of the park ranger. After I fed him some of my food he would follow me everywhere. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FWT4rNEgB1...guay+-+268.jpg I met some other travels at the park. They were a friendly group of South Africans. After being in Paraguay for about two weeks, these were the first international travelers that I had met. We went on a few nature hikes and shared a few meals. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DmDdEyqj3T...guay+-+185.jpg Over the next few days I would explore the area around the laguna. It did rain on and off. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AwIdlYZFjr...guay+-+206.jpg The water of the laguna was very clear. It was a bit cold at first, but nice to swim in. I tried my luck at fishing, but was unsuccessful. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zs9AnZElyu...guay+-+216.jpg The area around the laguna consisted mainly of low lying forests and scrubs. There was not anything in the surroundings that grabbed my attention and that I would call super amazing. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6652DOFGz_...guay+-+261.jpg But in the details there was a beauty that I would call graceful. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J28_YWTcVz...guay+-+188.jpg The texture of the fungus on a tree limb. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CieQxwbBj2...guay+-+197.jpg The intricate abstract design of a termite mound. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jdHX4ry5-S...guay+-+213.jpg The rustic patterns of tree bark. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CqGoicDbrL...guay+-+254.jpg The delicate layers of fungus... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hildF749kq...guay+-+249.jpg Fungus... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TJfSQbwj_y...guay+-+224.jpg And more fungus... among us. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zGdMHeemy7...guay+-+232.jpg I could look to the sky and see birds soaring above me. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AO5nqIA111...guay+-+236.jpg I could look to the ground and find an hormiga (ant) the size of a bottle cap. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QEdKWtp0oV...guay+-+257.jpg There were tracks of animals with hoofs like small deer. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wTZ2PIqnFt...guay+-+259.jpg There were markings from animals with claws like raccoons or anteaters. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UUHz3Qt4YB...guay+-+205.jpg And there were traces of animals like this... with big paws the size of a fist... perhaps from a puma or jaguar. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GaaD4wPoTT...guay+-+186.jpg In this area, metaphorically there appeared to be many things hidden under layers and layers. I felt as if I was just scratching the surface. I spent three days camping in La Laguna Blanca. It was a solitary place... a peaceful place... a reflective place. However, I needed to move on. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-od6TYbbROX...guay+-+273.jpg I waited for a moment when the rain would subside, then departed La Laguna Blanca. I left the white sand for the red sand. I would make my way back down the muddy road. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c7QsGiQfEh...guay+-+272.jpg The road was in worse condition that when I had traveled it previously. Progress was slow. A funny thing happened. I stopped at this point to take a photo of the muddy road and this particular puddle. To me the puddle appeared to be pretty deep. There was no room on the right nor left side to ride around the obsticle. Just after I took this photo a small truck pulled up behind me. The driver stopped briefly and glanced at me to see why I was waiting by the side of the road. He took a quick look at the puddle and then accelerated. He passed halfway across the puddle, but on the outbound side of the puddle his truck bogged down. The level of the water was probably knee high. He had lost his traction and was spinning his wheels. The truck was only 2 wheel drive and not 4 wheel drive. The water was deeper than the axles of the truck. Water soon started entering the interior of the cabin. He glanced back at me with a puzzled look. He kept his foot on the accelerator, but he kept digging his wheels deeper into the mud. He opened up his window and called out to me. He asked me if I would push him through the puddle. I wanted to help the guy, but I was not looking forward to it. I knew that it would be a wet and muddy proposition. I was already dirty on the outside of my riding gear from riding through the mud, but I did not want to get my boots, socks and pants completely immersed in the water and mud. I paused to think for a moment... then acted. I quickly dismounted my motorcycle and stripped off my riding gear... jacket, pants, boots and socks. I rolled up my pants and waded through the water and mud. I started to push the truck while the man accelerated. We were not very successful. After about a minute... his truck stalled. Water had entered either the exhaust or engine. Water had entered the cabin. He was stuck. He climbed out of his truck, waded through the water and settled on the dry ground. We looked at each other for a moment in despair. We chatted for a while. He thanked me for trying to help. He called someone on his phone for assistance. He said that they would come by later. I asked him if he would be okay if I continued on my journey. He said that he would be okay. I did notice that he was packing an automatic pistol, something like a Glock 9. I felt like he would be okay on his own. To give myself the best chance of riding through the puddle, I first waded through the water to find a high spot. The best route that I could find was still about a foot under water and with loose mud. I put back on my riding gear, started up my motorcycle and said a little prayer. I twisted Emi's throttle... she bolted forward... slush... slush... slush... back wheel moving... back wheel spinning... play with the clutch... a little more throttle... slush... slush...slush... keep the front wheel strait... back wheel sliding... play with the clutch... a little more throttle...slush... slush...slush... varooooom! Out of the puddle. And that is why Emi is so amazing. The adventure begins... when the road ends! I looked back at the stranded truck driver. He waived at me. I waived back. I rode on. After an hour or so of some more puddle jumping I made my way back to the asphalt highway. I was glad to see it. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hEeaMz8uiP...guay+-+279.jpg I would travel west on the highway toward the city of Asuncion. Rain clouds were forming on the horizon, so I pulled over to put on my rain gear. As I looked back I saw something coming toward me. I turned and snapped this photo. A horse and wagon on the highway next to my horse and wagon... Emi. |
The Adventure Begins... Asuncion
I traveled to the city of Asuncion.
I took a walk around the town and checked out... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Akag6c7mA8...guay+-+380.jpg The Street Art of Asuncion. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o0eg2fEgKC...guay+-+334.jpg The Museo de Barro. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RoW9Onk3j0...guay+-+363.jpg A Walk Around the Town. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3U3dXRqGiW...guay+-+410.jpg And picked up some New Tires. Click on the links for the full story. |
The Adventure Begins... Jesuit Missions of Jesus de Tavarangue and Trinidad
I rode south to the town of Encarnacion.
Just outside of Encarnacion are the ruins of the Jesuit Missions of Jesus de Tavarangue and Trinidad. They were religious missions that were founded by the Jesuit missionaries during the colonization of South America in the 17th century. The missions were created in 1609 and developed for 150 years. Both areas were declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1993. The Jesuit Missions of Paraguay are considered some of the most impressive creations of the religious work of the Jesuits, and are testimony of the historical richness of the country. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--M7sgG3bvl...guay+-+548.jpg First up... Jesus de Tavarangue. The church of Reducción de Jesús (Jesus’ Mission) was in the process of being built when the Jesuits were expelled from the Río de la Plata Province. It would have been one of the biggest churches of that time, with a central structure of 70 by 24 metres (230 by 79 ft). The structure's design was based on the Church of Loyola, in Italy. The three doors of access, located in the front, created impressive entryways. UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 1993. It is considered one of the most important edifications of the 30 Jesuits towns in the region. The stone pulpit, the friezes of angels, the rose shaped carved stone in the lintels in the doors and the bell tower stand out in its architecture. The ruins of these missions show a way of life and education marked by its own and singular style. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qgjc9vsGfu...guay+-+416.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PFg0V0mZAu...guay+-+419.jpg See more http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XSHEvqnuaU...guay+-+554.jpg I left the Jesus Mission and headed down the road. Along the way I passed by this cemetary. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mETglp_Zuo...guay+-+574.jpg I came across this farm and thought the juxtaposition of the farm house, tree and longhorn were perfect. If the longhorn would just look my way... http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lm0DTAVptH...guay+-+582.jpg It would be perfect. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P6te5bHwUb...guay+-+578.jpg He decided to appease me. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nQ1TfKSte9...guay+-+590.jpg Second up... Trinidad. The Santísima Trinidad del Paraná Mission is considered the biggest of all the missions. Natives came from the missions of San Carlos (now in the territory of Argentina) in 1712. This mission has the biggest temple among all the Jesuit Missions, with an altar carved out of a single piece of stone. Some of the stone carvings within the mission illustrate the persecution of the natives at that time. It has a central square, the town’s place of meeting. Located in the old sacristy, are many sculptures and a scale model of the mission. These ruins are in the process of being restored. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-om3KLy_o_G...guay+-+654.jpg The principle inhabits are now termites. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UznguB-1iF...guay+-+588.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cMsId_TUgf...guay+-+591.jpg See more source: Wikipedia |
The Adventure Begins... Itaipu Dam
I headed north toward Ciudad del Este and visited the Itaipu Dam.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-evYufmIMgS...guay+-+718.jpg The Itaipu Dam is a hydroelectric dam on the Paraná River located on the border between Brazil and Paraguay. The name "Itaipu" was taken from an isle that existed near the construction site. In the Guaraní language, Itaipu means "the sounding stone". http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U3hOMWqekM...guay+-+732.jpg The dam is the largest operating hydroelectric facility in terms of annual energy generation, generating 94.7 TWh in 2008 and 91.6 TWh in 2009, while the annual energy generation of the Three Gorges Dam was 80.8 TWh in 2008 and 79.4 TWh in 2009. Though, the dam's 14,000 MW installed capacity is second to the Three Gorges Dam's 22,500 MW. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JdeXS5F8QF...guay+-+739.jpg It is a binational undertaking run by Brazil and Paraguay at the Paraná River on the border section between the two countries, 15 km (9.3 mi) north of the Friendship Bridge. The project ranges from Foz do Iguaçu, in Brazil, and Ciudad del Este in Paraguay, in the south to Guaíra and Salto del Guairá in the north. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JLuP42e2sH...guay+-+746.jpg The installed generation capacity of the plant is 14 GW, with 20 generating units providing 700 MW each with a hydraulic design head of 118 m. In 2008 the plant generated a record 94.68 TWh, supplying 90% of the electricity consumed by Paraguay and 19% of that consumed by Brazil. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_RqJOf5XAR...guay+-+752.jpg Of the twenty generator units currently installed, ten generate at 50 Hz for Paraguay and ten generate at 60 Hz for Brazil. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0iEqWCMOvL...guay+-+758.jpg Two 600 kV HVDC lines, each approximately 800 km long, carry both Brazilian and Paraguayan energy to São Paulo where the terminal equipment converts the power to 60 Hz. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-99oazwYC7v...guay+-+772.jpg In 1994, the American Society of Civil Engineers elected the Itaipu Dam as one of the seven modern Wonders of the World. In 1995, the American magazine Popular Mechanics published the results. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MEMAOqrbwV...guay+-+776.jpg When construction of the dam began, approximately 10,000 families living beside the Paraná River were displaced. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rIXki_VJGU...guay+-+779.jpg The world's largest waterfall by volume, the Guaíra Falls were drowned by the newly formed Itaipu reservoir. The Brazilian government liquidated the Guaíra Falls National Park, and dynamited the submerged rock face where the falls had been, facilitating safer navigation, but eliminating the possibility of restoring the falls in the future. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fIn2YbJmW7...guay+-+784.jpg A few months before the reservoir was filled, 80 people died when an overcrowded bridge overlooking the falls collapsed, as tourists sought a last glimpse of the falls. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kaZBqYl3b4...guay+-+726.jpg All of that can be summed up by saying... it's a pretty big dam! source: Wikipedia |
The Adventure Begins...Crossing Three Frontiers..Ciudad del Este..Puerto Iguazu
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From Ciudad del Este I planned to visit the famous Iguazu Falls. One can access the falls by Puerto Iguazu in Argentina or Foz de Iguacu in Brazil. I wanted to see the falls from both vantage points, so I planned my route. There is a bridge called the Friendship Bridge that spans the Rio Parana between Ciudad del Este, Paraguay and Foz de Iguacu, Brazil. It is a highly trafficked bridge and I had heard that it somethings takes hours to cross the border with a vehicle. This proposition did not sound apealing. A Paraguayan friend of mine had mentioned to me that there was a ferry that crosses the Rio Parana into Puerto Iguazu, Argentina from a small town, just south of Ciudad del Este, called Presidente Franco. Supposedly the route was lightly trafficked. It sounded more like my style. So I plotted my route to travel south from Ciudad del Este to Presidente Franco. I would take the ferry to Puerto Iguazu, Argentina and see the falls in one day. Then I would travel from Puerto Iguazu, Argentina across a land bridge to Foz de Iguacu, Brazil and see the falls from the second vantage point. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kvZjGw5YD4...guay+-+882.jpg I rode south for about 30 minutes to the town of Presidente Franco and found the ferry. I was the only non-local crossing the border so immigration and customs processing only took about two minutes. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h9QbeS75GK...guay+-+885.jpg It was a short crossing and only took about 10 minutes. It cost about US$10. To the left was Brazil. To the right was Argentina. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9apzEn66Rk...guay+-+886.jpg Behind me was Paraguay. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fW_300Omr8...guay+-+888.jpg La Triple Frontera... The three frontiers all seen from this one vantage point. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YIegF_6u7J...guay+-+887.jpg The ferry approached the dock of Puerto Iguazu, Argentina and I rode off. Again, the immigration and customs processing was quick and easy. It turned out to be nice and relaxing way to cross the frontier. |
The Adventure Begins... What If Money Was No Object?
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The Adventure Begins... Iguazu Falls, Argentina
From Puerto Iguazu it was a short ride to Iguazu Falls.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qGbXt84coN...zil+-+0004.jpg Iguazu Falls is considered one of the seven wonders of the natural world. So I thought that it was worth a visit. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kSsCF2vowG...zil+-+0003.jpg I rode my moto to the entrance of the Parque Nacional Iguazu. Bought an admission ticket for 130 Pesos and walked in. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oPLclmGPUa...zil+-+0007.jpg The Iguazu Falls are waterfalls of the Iguazu River on the border of Brazilian State Paraná and Argentine Province Misiones. The falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazu. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u4Y4NnZUNU...zil+-+0011.jpg The park is a major tourist destination and had this little train to carry visitors to the upper falls. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iN6uJgdEjo...zil+-+0013.jpg The name "Iguazu" comes from the Guarani or Tupi words "y", meaning "water", and "ûasú ", meaning "big". Legend has it that a god planned to marry a beautiful woman named Naipí, who fled with her mortal lover Tarobá in a canoe. In rage, the god sliced the river, creating the waterfalls and condemning the lovers to an eternal fall. The first European to find the falls was the Spanish conquistador Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca in 1541. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EmqjZATh7f...zil+-+0173.jpg After debarking from the train, I walked along an elevated walkway. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iEEw11VRhk...zil+-+0018.jpg Iguazu Falls is located where the Iguazu River tumbles over the edge of the Paraná Plateau, 23 kilometres (14 mi) upriver from the Iguazu's confluence with the Paraná River. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tCbaNRU-JW...zil+-+0168.jpg Numerous islands along the 2.7-kilometre-long (1.7 mi) edge divide the falls into numerous separate waterfalls and cataracts, varying between 60 to 82 metres (197 to 269 ft) high. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E-fN_ZagaG...zil+-+0023.jpg The number of these smaller waterfalls fluctuates from 150 to 300, depending on the water level. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cMToWjd1a3...zil+-+0024.jpg About half of the river's flow falls into a long and narrow chasm called the Devil's Throat (Garganta del Diablo in Spanish or Garganta do Diabo in Portuguese). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A-hkDCqdla...zil+-+0060.jpg The Devil's Throat is U-shaped, 82 meters high, 150 m wide, and 700 m long (269×490×2,300 ft). Mist rises between 30 and 150 metres (100 and 490 ft) from Iguazu's Devil's Throat. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--TgYYS7E4o...zil+-+0133.jpg The Iguazu Falls are arranged in a way that seems like a reverse letter "J". http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-orA-702Zb3...zil+-+0161.jpg The border between Brazil and Argentina runs through the Devil's Throat. On the left bank is the Brazilian territory, which has just over 20% of the jumps of these falls, and the right side jumps are Argentines, which make up almost 80% of the falls. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L4LWuhKUlp...zil+-+0092.jpg Iguazu is also often compared with Southern Africa's Victoria Falls which separates Zambia and Zimbabwe. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C7MlMN4H9b...zil+-+0098.jpg Iguazu is wider because it is split into about 275 discrete falls and large islands. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5berN3zeqZ...zil+-+0111.jpg The only wider falls are extremely large rapid-like falls such as the Boyoma Falls. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IuDt_CNHcD...zil+-+0045.jpg Upon seeing Iguazu, the United States' First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly exclaimed "Poor Niagara!"(which, at 50 m or 165 feet, are a third shorter). http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f_r8gpjrhf...zil+-+0078.jpg The Devil's Throat in Argentina has water pouring into it from three sides. At one point a person can stand and be surrounded by 260 degrees of waterfalls. See video Here's a short 1 minute video of the Devil's Throat. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HuduC7pkGs...zil+-+0100.jpg I was not alone at the falls. Like I said, it is a major tourist attraction and there were some areas that were elbow to elbow in tourists. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xFnH5eY5EJ...zil+-+0175.jpg I decided that I wanted a little more space, so I walked on. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ALKrGJSQLH...zil+-+0178.jpg Along the path I came across some butterflies drinking water puddles. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xS5FpAZ1KR...zil+-+0197.jpg Place names have been given to many of the other smaller falls, such as San Martin Falls, Bossetti Falls and many others. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xI5TmiMhlw...zil+-+0249.jpg Water http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eiThOK9b3g...zil+-+0209.jpg Rainbow http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GaqhBNBxHH...zil+-+0273.jpg Chasm http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HUkGJ9F8S2...zil+-+0293.jpg Flora http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2nf70420LP...zil+-+0257.jpg Fuana http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nrw_jzV80b...zil+-+0330.jpg Twin Sisters http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WI8p7Qa_hT...zil+-+0310.jpg Drinking it up. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XMULHQHtHm...zil+-+0307.jpg Fall http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RUB5UY649M...zil+-+0321.jpg After fall http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j4USyZSPwV...zil+-+0325.jpg After fall http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vjl4k8HtLe...zil+-+0338.jpg This is little animal is a coati. It is a relative of the raccoon. They are a bit of a pest and will steal items of food or clothing if left unattended. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PYth05U0h2...zil+-+0347.jpg This industrious group of coatis was working together. One coati climbed the tree and shook the palm. The fruit fell down and the others dined. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9ZEFjia00L...zil+-+0327.jpg I spent the entire day walking around the trails of the park. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hIUHRFuB6C...zil+-+0353.jpg Iguazu Falls... one of the seven wonders of the natural world. |
The Adventure Begins... Iguazu Falls and Foz do Iguacu, Brazil
From Puerto Iguazu, Argentina I traveled a short distance to Foz do Iguacu, Brazil.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kvTcFGqAGJ...zil+-+0358.jpg There was an immigration and customs checkpoint that I passed through with no problems. I dropped my things off at a hostel and rode to the park on the Brazilian side. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rHvp2Zoeya...zil+-+0368.jpg I signed up for a tour of the park which included a ride in a tram and boat. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2BoYxTtYBA...zil+-+0375.jpg The guide took our group through a number of trails and pointed out unique characteristics of the flora and fauna. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-baGgcDkZsw...zil+-+0380.jpg But the real adventure began once we put on these life preservers. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qoD1cXRncx...zil+-+0617.jpg We boarded a zodiac boat and headed down the Parana River. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aur2mFnXuw...zil+-+0624.jpg It started out as a pretty calm ride down the river. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RNbPetnCQR...zil+-+0269.jpg But we also passed through some rapids. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qrV-1SMiim...zil+-+0628.jpg We were able to pass nearby the falls on the Argentinian side. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qfg4799xxV...zil+-+0640.jpg And passed by this complete rainbow. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4DuEEZiT1-...zil+-+0665.jpg And then we approached the falls up close and personal on the Brazilian side. See Video Here is a short 1 minute video about riding the zodiac boat through Iguazu Falls. We actually passed under the falls 3 or 4 times. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zNwfAlbgRu...zil+-+0360.jpg After the tour I hopped on a bus to visit another part of the falls. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_rLUU3n1sF...zil+-+0413.jpg I got off the bus and started walking along a trail. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zWsoj9qFgX...zil+-+0381.jpg I could see the falls in the distance. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mKRSS1UDNa...zil+-+0385.jpg As I got closer I caught a better view. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HRiHHhG7uD...zil+-+0399.jpg And then from this vantage point I could see almost the entirety of the falls on the Argentinian side. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BedDonQpvZ...zil+-+0436.jpg I walked some more and caught glimpses of various falls on the Brazilian side. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IpCaKEJLde...zil+-+0468.jpg I liked this image with the mist rising off the falls. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k65UQDm64y...zil+-+0501.jpg A different vantage point allowed me to look down the river. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7y0ca4cgM8...zil+-+0584.jpg At this location I was practically standing on top of the falls. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gQJoZxf5zp...zil+-+0589.jpg Another day... another sunset... over Iguazu Falls. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dzlWh6Qp8N...zil+-+0465.jpg Iguazu Falls... one of the seven wonders of the natural world. For the complete story visit www.TheAdventureBegins.tv |
The Adventure Begins... Motorcycle Maintenance on the Go
I left Foz do Iguacu and headed east.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4q8ANTmG-u...zil+-+0748.jpg Along the way I stopped at a gas station to fill up with gas and rest. I could tell that a few other motorcyclists had stopped at this station due to the large number of motorcyclists stickers on the window. It's a common thing in Brazil at certain resting points for motorcyclists to leave a sticker of their club, journey or sponsor. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aOWvdvoHxT...zil+-+0751.jpg Realizing that the gas station was probably friendly to motorcyclists I decided to ask them if I could change my oil in their maintenance garage. The said that it would be okay and even offered me a drip pan made out of an old plastic container. I did a quick change of the oil... then back onto the road... east. For more visit www.TheAdventureBegins.tv |
The Adventure Begins... Curitiba, Brazil... A Tour of the City
After a very long day of riding... probably 10 hours... I arrived into the town of Curitiba, Brazil.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QjaPqjd03g...zil+-+0752.jpg While in Foz do Iguacu I met a fellow motorcyclist named Rodolfo. Rodolfo was in the process of starting a business and hostel for motorcyclists in Foz do Iguacu. His business is called The Biker's Help Desk. Stop by if you are in the neighborhood. Well, Rodolfo introduced me to his brother Roberto and they offered to let me stay at his brother's apartment in Curitiba. This is Roberto and his roommate Gaspar. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SmoAmYijtp...zil+-+0753.jpg I took a tour of Curitiba. The city is a very modern and clean city. It looks as if it may have been master planned. The city has a nice system of mass transit, parks and commercial areas. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eT_ls_heA7...zil+-+0756.jpg This is the botanical gardens. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9w3lH-dXtd...zil+-+0758.jpg The city center and cathedral. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qDkQWiItea...zil+-+0760.jpg I came across this production being filmed on a Red camera. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qkOVKA3Hip...zil+-+0785.jpg The city center historical district. Church Water fountain and sculpture Blooming tree in the city center Paiol Theatre Parana Pine Tree Arab memorial and museum The Mercado Municipal was perhaps the best market that I visited in all my travels. They had all sorts of goods. Fresh fruits and vegetables. Sauces Dried goods Seafood Wine They even had an organic section with fresh produce And a very nice food court within the market. I just stayed for a short time in Curitiba, because I was anxious to visit the Brazilian coast. For the complete story with photos visit Curitiba |
The Adventure Begins... The Novo Museu or Oscar Niemeyer Museum and Street Art
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While in Curitiba, I visited the Oscar Niemeyer Museum. The museum focuses on the visual arts, architecture and design. It is also known as Museu do Olho or Museum of the Eye, due to the design of the building. Oscar Niemeyer was a Brazilian architect who is considered to be one of the key figures in the development of modern architecture. Niemeyer was best known for his design of civic buildings for Brasília, a planned city which became Brazil's capital in 1960, as well as his collaboration with other architects on the United Nations Headquarters in New York City. His exploration of the aesthetic possibilities of reinforced concrete was highly influential on the architecture of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--akCeSHbJo...zil+-+0813.jpg http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lr_ufJ5Wsz...zil+-+0830.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dWPTEkvUWz...zil+-+0833.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XB4nelzkzO...zil+-+0838.jpg After visiting the museum I must say that I was more impressed with the design of the exterior building that the collection of art. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aLddbRC_KE...zil+-+0761.jpg I also took a walk around Curitiba and saw some pretty interesting street art. For the full story with photos visit The Novo Museu |
The Adventure Begins... Ilha do Mel (Island of Honey)...beaches...beaches...
When I think of Brazil, I think of miles and miles of coast and beautiful beaches. I was ready for a little sun and fun. So, from Curitiba I headed due east to the coast. My destination was the Ilha do Mel (Island of Honey).
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0ABdc5eW7N...+ilhadomel.jpg I rode about 120km to a small town on the coast called Ponta do Sul. In Ponta do Sul I found a pay-by-the-day garage and parked my moto. I think that it cost me about 15 Brazilian Reales. Then I walked down the street and caught a ferry. On Ilha do Mel... no vehicles are allowed. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gYUJAbhb4f...zil+-+0843.jpg The ferry ride was a short ride across a bay that lasted about 30 minutes. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M038Kc2aA-...lha_do_mel.jpg There were basically three small towns on Ilha do Mel... Fortaleza, Brasilia and Encantadas. I landed in Encantadas. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-grj0gcp5Uu...zil+-+0848.jpg When the road ended, the adventure began on foot. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwRhi0oidP...zil+-+0850.jpg No worries... all the roads on the island were actually sand trails. Encantadas seemed to consist of a scattering of houses, a few small hotels and a few restaurants all interlinked by the sand trails. A typical colorful house. A typical restaurant. A nice little hotel. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uXtBT1ZBIy...zil+-+0852.jpg It was the middle of the week and there were not many tourists on the island. I think that I spotted maybe six. On my first day on Ilha do Mel I decided to take a walk to the other side of the island... I followed this sand trail. It opened up to the ocean. I walked a little further along some marsh and sand dunes. I found a trail that passed over a hill and by a rock outcropping. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Rqjc1KUo0j...zil+-+0863.jpg The trail led to a secluded beach. On the far side of the secluded beach I found La Gruta das Encantadas (Cavern of Enchantment). http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CbtNJdUY-V...zil+-+0873.jpg I walked on and found this picturesque cove. The sun started to set in the west. I headed back to town by a pathway through some grasslands. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7sgOLR7d3M...zil+-+0886.jpg Back in Encantadas, I enjoyed a dinner of shrimp, fries, carrots, beats, tomatoes, rice and feijao (beans). The next day I decided to explore a little more of the island. I headed down a different trail. Crossed a few beaches and hills... came across this cross. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Pm9oLTo_lc...zil+-+0893.jpg Passed by this shrine by the sea. Sea urchins in a tide pool. Mollusks clinging to the rocks. Lichen on the rocks. A mollusk shell in the tide. A sand dollar in the tide. A crab in the tide. A sand sculpture of sorts. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I9DNwlInO4...zil+-+0906.jpg Actually I came across this group of people combing the beach. I stopped and talked with them for a while. The man held a long tube with a suction pump. He would walk along the beach, then poke the tube into the sand and pull the suction pump. He would then release the pump and the contents would be released. Turns out they were combing the beach for some shell fish. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r26ZDzsLmN...zil+-+0905.jpg They were collecting these little camerao (shrimp). In the middle of the island at one outcropping there was the Farol das Conchas (lighthouse) I hiked up the hill to get a closer look. The lighthouse was constructed in 1870. From the lighthouse, I could look to the left and see the west side of the island. I could look to the right and see the east side of the island. I continued with my walk along the beach. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qKQfyRqjnY...zil+-+0918.jpg I came across a little village and this wooden fishing boat. Sea gulls fishing in the marsh. A young boy, his brother and a bicycle on the beach. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4KPczclSdK...zil+-+0921.jpg At the far north end of the island is a fort. The Fortaleza Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres. The fort was constructed in 1769 It contained a courtyard surrounded by thick walls. The walls had cobblestone walkways There were a number of antique canons positioned to protect the fort The fort was surrounded by the tropical jungle. There was even a jail within the fort. And the front entrance to the fort had a pretty scenic view of the ocean. Around the back of the fort there was another trail. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lg9tP1s7tj...zil+-+0948.jpg The trail led to a battery with more modern artillery weapons. There were some stone trenches dug into the mountainside. I walked within the labyrinth of trenches. A pathway of a different kind. From the battery, I could look down upon the fort. As the day drew long, I headed back to Encantadas. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xDESNcjUMV...zil+-+0884.jpg The next day I hung out in the town and watched some fishing vessels return to the port. Soon enough, it was time for me to catch the ferry back to the mainland and leave Ilha do Mel. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HjZHjKROuH...zil+-+0957.jpg Taking only pictures and leaving only footprints. For the full story with photos visit Ilha do Mel |
The Adventure Begins... Sand Dollars... Wealth
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I am going to start counting sand dollars as part of my wealth... making me a very wealthy man to date. |
The Adventure Begins... 2013 Dakar Rally
If anyone is interested I'm posting daily the video highlights of the 2013 Dakar Rally on my website... www.TheAdventureBegins.tv
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The Adventure Begins... Sao Paulo... Big Bold City
Okay, I'm going to try to finish up this tale of adventure within the next few days. Here it goes...
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y2K_peQc77...2BSaoPaolo.jpg From Florianopolis I headed north to Sao Paulo. Not much scenery along the way. It was a two lane highway with lots of cars and big trucks. It was a long day of riding... I think maybe 9 or 10 hours. I arrived into the city just as it was turning dark. Luckily the hostel allowed me to pull my motorcycle into the lobby to park it. I checked into the hostel, ate some street food and went to sleep. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yVk3q-hM-E...zil+-+1041.jpg The next day, I left my moto at the hostel and set off on foot... and subway. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xfvfSMfLpq...zil+-+1083.jpg São Paulo is the largest city in Brazil, the largest city in the southern hemisphere, and the world's eighth largest city by population. The first place I visited was the Edificio Italia (Italian Building). It is a tall skyscraper that allows visitors to ascend in an elevator and look out the windows for a pretty magnificent panoramic view of the city. As I arrived into the city, I could sense that the air quality was not the best. When I looked out over the city and saw all the smog I could understand why. But there were some interesting architecture. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RkaUOVVM9q...zil+-+1067.jpg I walked around a bit and passed through this railway station. The design of the station was classic. There were huge arcs spanning the interior forming the ceiling, elegant brick masonry, light posts and an abundance of iron craft around the balconies and walkways. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t6iMJeMGsv...zil+-+1065.jpg I decided to check out one of the museums... the Pinaocteca do Estado. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A2qHcVZbC6...zil+-+1043.jpg The museum's collection consisted mostly of contemporary art. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nYKR3BN98L...zil+-+1059.jpg This giant plate of people made me happy for some reason. The plate was probably about 8 feet in diameter. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RudkM8CL4A...zil+-+1049.jpg I was a bit entranced by this collection of chromatic art. Of course, the photos do not represent the real visual experience of seeing the art in person. Trust me, it was very alive. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YwjhCZ08Kw...zil+-+1058.jpg Also, I did find a few oil paintings that I really enjoyed. This collection of oil paintings really seemed to capture rural life in Brazil's past. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IG7JNPw6ll...zil+-+1068.jpg I made another stop at the Mercado Municipal (Municipal Market). It was a bustling market with everything a foodie could possibly want. Wine Olive oil Seafood Spices Fruits Cheese Cured items Preserves Fresh meats http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dboCvH6aYn...zil+-+1078.jpg And a nice dining area to enjoy all the delicacies. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CgefMq7Np2...zil+-+1087.jpg I continued walking around the city admiring some of the buildings. There seemed to be an abundance of sculptures I only spent two days in Sao Paulo. After spending so much time on secluded beaches, I was not really feeling the vibe of the city. Plus, there was somewhere else that I really wanted to visit... Rio! For the full story with photos see Sao Paulo |
The Adventure Begins... Rio de Janeiro... Cidade Maravilhosa
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From Sao Paulo I headed east. The countryside turned into gentle rolling green hills. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IbvcyLAf1X...zil+-+1121.jpg Still, almost the entire ride was along a two lane highway. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19aaiyFs_-...zil+-+1116.jpg I rarely pulled over to take photos out of fear that one of the big trucks might roll right over me. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NzZI_wjM75...zil+-+1128.jpg After about six hours of riding I reached... Rio de Janeiro! http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tUHKi6Jj0W...zil+-+1130.jpg Rio de Janeiro commonly referred to simply as Rio is the second largest city of Brazil, and the third largest metropolitan area in South America. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IhUE7xZTa3...zil+-+1131.jpg Rio boasts approximately 6.3 million people within the city proper, making it the 6th largest in the Americas, and 26th in the world. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cDrCufMWXb...zil+-+1136.jpg Rio is nicknamed the Cidade Maravilhosa or "Marvelous City". Granted on 1 July 2012 in the category Cultural Landscape, Rio de Janeiro is a UNESCO World Heritage Site named "Rio de Janeiro: Carioca Landscapes between the Mountain and the Sea". It is easy to see why. |
The Adventure Begins... Rio de Janeiro... A Normal Day
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A normal day in Rio involves dressing casual and taking the subway. Today I was taking the subway... then a bus... to arrive at the Parque Nacional da Tijuca. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1jZxyY6gu4...zil+-+1142.jpg On my second day in Rio, I met a few locals through Couchsurfing.org and we went on a hike in the park. There was Me, Partick, Augusto, Mario and Thatiana. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g1AEvp13lU...zil+-+1147.jpg Mario led us down some trails. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2k-M-d6_Hy...zil+-+1163.jpg Around some obstacles http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_2YllxMEL6...zil+-+1146.jpg We were amongst the trees http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ky5L06btQc...zil+-+1145.jpg Even got inside one http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Q9cdOt54m...zil+-+1161.jpg Found a waterfall http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xk2jIy9qj_...zil+-+1155.jpg Even went for a dip in the water. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X0TPBEl7Xw...zil+-+1175.jpg Then it was back to the city. All in a normal day in Rio. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1tdCsFEJa5...zil+-+1187.jpg I decided to stay outside of the main tourist areas of Ipanema and Copacabana and chose to stay in the working class neighborhood of Tijuca. This is a park near the subway station. These guys are flying little kites. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FrjpCGhxVY...zil+-+1188.jpg There is a bit of a kite battle going one to see if one person can cut the line of another person. It's really quite an impassioned past time in Tijuca. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0y9ajlyV1a...zil+-+1127.jpg Ahhhh... Rio! |
The Adventure Begins... Rio de Janeiro... Typical Tourists
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In the hostel at which I was staying I met a traveler from Germany named Franziska. I just called her Franzi. We decided to check out some of the major attractions in Rio and be typical tourists. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wYoNYXSB0o...zil+-+1290.jpg The first stop was Cristo Redentor or Christ the Redeemer. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YhD6-Np1GW...zil+-+1191.jpg The Cristo Redentor is a statue of Jesus of Nazareth in Rio. It is considered the largest Art Deco statue in the world and the 5th largest statue of Jesus in the world. It is 30.1 metres (99 ft) tall, not including its 6 metres (20 ft) pedestal, and 19 metres (62 ft) wide. It weighs 635 tonnes (625 long,700 short tons), and is located at the peak of the 700-metre (2,300 ft) Corcovado mountain in the Tijuca Forest National Park overlooking the city. A symbol of Brazilian Christianity, the statue has become an icon for Rio de Janeiro and Brazil. It is made of reinforced concrete and soapstone, and was constructed between 1926 and 1931. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dob5Y1APuV...zil+-+1220.jpg We bought tickets and waited in line with all the other tourists. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Xam4_JbC2T...zil+-+1225.jpg After boarding the tram we ascended the Corcovado Mountain. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AZOyELkNjX...zil+-+1295.jpg We passed through the Tijuca Forest. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bskz8EG8wQ...zil+-+1232.jpg It was a cloudy day, but we could still see parts of the city http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y2TeW4TsrJ...zil+-+1289.jpg We debarked from the tram and ascended a walkway. There were some unusual trees in this park. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t-3SDDjNCo...zil+-+1228.jpg As we climbed we caught the first glimpse of the Cristo. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kneu6FjAVS...zil+-+1243.jpg And then... there He was... pretty impressive... arms stretched out... http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ds0DLuSiFs...zil+-+1276.jpg I just wanted to give Him a hug. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iTbj1-ANF-...zil+-+1249.jpg The skies cleared... http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nMl1bc72ni...zil+-+1257.jpg Just in time for all the other tourists to get in front of my photo. There were lots and lots of tourists. It was not exactly a private spiritual moment. It was more like a Disneyworld moment. We hung around for a while taking photos... but then it was time to leave. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-feT5uRToYy...zil+-+1353.jpg The next attraction that we wanted to visit was the Pão de Açúcar or Sugarloaf Mountain. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JHj7a1fh4b...zil+-+1304.jpg To reach the summit of Sugarloaf we took a teleferico (gondola/cable car). The first segment of the journey ascends to the shorter Morro da Urca, 220 meters high. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZAVAlR6Txq...zil+-+1316.jpg The second segment of the journey ascends to Pão de Açúcar. The Italian-made bubble-shaped cars offer passengers 360-degree views of the surrounding city. The climb takes three minutes from start to finish. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xxUm731Cr1...zil+-+1317.jpg Sugarloaf Mountain is a peak situated at the mouth of Guanabara Bay on a peninsula that sticks out into the Atlantic Ocean. Rising 396 metres (1,299 ft) above the harbor, its name is said to refer to its resemblance to the traditional shape of a concentrated refined loaf of sugar. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p1RwODgRQQ...zil+-+1314.jpg The name "Sugar Loaf" was coined in the 16th century by the Portuguese during the heyday of sugar cane trade in Brazil. According to historian Vieira Fazenda, blocks of sugar were placed in conical molds made of clay to be transported on ships. The shape given by these molds was similar to the peak, hence the name. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BonntOkLzX...zil+-+1332.jpg Once we arrived at the top, we had some pretty spectacular views of the coastline. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BoEECthiOZ...zil+-+1309.jpg We could see the city below. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9cXpLznEAM...zil+-+1313.jpg And the harbor which contained a number of sailboats. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ff0Tta7_GC...zil+-+1342.jpg And off in the distance... when the clouds cleared... for just a brief moment... http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UeLC_u1R2M...zil+-+1343.jpg We could see the Cristo. |
The Adventure Begins... Rio de Janeiro
Here are a collection of stories of my time in Rio de Janeiro.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PQFEQ_KksG...zil+-+1400.jpg On another day, Franzi and I decided to check out the Jardim Botânico (Botanical Garden) in Rio. See the full story. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zaMmSCi5SL...razil_tour.jpg I heard about a free walking tour of Rio and decided to join. Cassio, the guy in the middle, was our tour guide for the day. See the full story. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ygEM9UhZmQ...zil+-+2454.jpg I went for a walk around the city and found this street art (graffiti). Look closely... not everything is as it seems. I saved the best for the last. See the full story. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W2JpAt8AOO...zil+-+1437.jpg In the historical area of Rio there are a number of churches, museums and architectural buildings that I found interesting. See the full story. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RjuuobYe6V...zil+-+1486.jpg I took the Metro (subway) to Ipanema to check out the Feria Hippie (Hippie Market) and the famous Ipanema Beach. See the full story. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DIaarVC3s-...zil+-+1568.jpg I connected with a group of Brazilians and took a trip to Ilha Grande (The Big Island). From Rio we took a chartered bus ride and then a boat ride to reach the island. See the full story. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oEXyWlNNe-...ge-722932.jpeg I saw a promotion for the Festival do Rio (Rio Film Festival). I thought that it would be worth my time to stay in Rio a little longer to check it out. See the full story. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SsFOQVZbC3...ge-755756.jpeg I met up with some friends to hike to Pedra Bonita (Pretty Rock). See the full story. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3...fl4/s400/0.jpg I went to a picnic organized by some people from couchsurfing. There was a pretty good turnout with a variety of food and drink. As the sun set the picnic turned into a carnival romba party. See the full story. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ed2suM6Vi5...zil+-+1897.jpg My original plan was to stay in Rio de Janeiro for a month, to get to know the city and to try to learn Portuguese. After staying a month in Rio, I realized that it would not be enough time. So I decided to stay an extra month to get a better feeling for the place. I settled into an apartment in the neighborhood of Tijuca. See the full story. |
The Adventure Begins... More Rio de Janeiro and Beyond
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A trip to Rio de Janeiro would not be complete without a visit to the famous beaches. In fact, I had the opportunity to visit the beaches a number of times. For the full story see Copacabana and Ipanema. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aH-MLTGCh2...zil+-+2674.jpg I met up with some friends, a Brazilian named Jordan and a Russian named Yuliya, and we decided to check out a Brazilian football (soccer) game. The teams were Fluminense versus Gremio. I'm really not that much of a football fan, but I felt that I would never be able to understand Brazilians until I went to one of their football matches. Brazilians are fanatical about football. Jordan just happened to be a big Fluminense fan. For the full story see Fluminense vs Gemio http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S3_pJYF_KT...zil+-+1180.jpg I passed by the Museum of Modern Art in Rio and outside there was this large iron art piece that was probably 30 feet long and 10 feet wide. For the full story see Outside Art See the video In Rio de Janeiro, it seems that music, dancing and celebrating life are an integral part of life. For the full story see Always Music http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2csPxAOlXU...zil+-+2035.jpg I decided to take a day trip and rode my motorcycle to the town of Petropolis. It was a beautiful clear and crisp day... and the road was twisty. For the full story see Petropolis http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W31E9W7Oqq...zil+-+2135.jpg In Brazil, when there is an official day-off before or after a weekend, it is called feriado (holiday). On one feriado some friends and I took a trip to the ocean side resort town of Buzios. For the full story see Buzios http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w4bm3CVROG...zil+-+2552.jpg The Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) statue overlooks the entire city of Rio de Janeiro. From the favelas (slums) to fancy skyscrapers. Under the watchful view of the Cristo is the artsy neighborhood of Santa Teresa. For the full story see Santa Teresa. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uJ36TfryO3...zil+-+2723.jpg A Brazilian friend of mine told me that one of the most beautiful areas in the country is the state of Minas Gerais. Another friend mentioned that the best food in the country originates from Minas Gerais. Well, I had to check it out for myself... off to Minas Gerais. For the full story see Minas Gerais. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1VA3O-S-Dk...zil+-+3528.jpg Back in Rio de Janeiro, I decided to check out a Brazilian Churrascaria named Carretao. A churrascaria is a restaurant that specializes in grilled and roasted meats cooked on a spit or skewer. Generally, the waiters carry spits of meat around to each table and offer the patrons a taste. Many of them offer all-you-can-eat service. I sat and ate. For the full story see Meat. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yYfC6_4k0z...zil+-+3251.jpg On a clear day in Rio de Janeiro one can look across the bay... and in the distance... one can see on the other side... the city of Niteroi. In Niteroi... there is a hill where people jump off the edge... and parapente (paraglide). I had to go check it out. For the full story see Flying. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yqsibmNsjd...zil+-+3214.jpg My time in Rio de Janeiro was coming to an end. My friend Roxanne and I thought that it would be a fun idea to share a little taste of Texas with some of our friends. So... we hosted a TexMex dinner party. For the full story see TexMex Dinner. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wVQg_IBvp7...zil+-+1741.jpg While in Rio de Janeiro, I often traveled by the metro (subway)... and discovered this underground art. For the full story see Underground http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7cvkjmBJ2U...zil+-+1967.jpg There was a film that I read about online that I wanted to watch. It was showing in an area called Cinelandia in the central area of the Rio de Janeiro. The film was screening at a place called the Centro Cultural Justicia Federal (Federal Justice Cutural Center). I ended up watching the film, but it is what I discovered inside the building that I found truly amazing. The best part is the last part. For the full story see The Centro Cultural. See the video While living in Rio de Janeiro, I rarely rode my motorcycle around the city. To me, the roads often felt like a maze and the traffic felt oppressive. However, I did take a few excursions outside of the city by motorcycle. It always seemed easy to leave the city, but to return to the city posed problems. It seemed like there was always lots of traffic flowing into the city. So... when in Rio... I often found myself riding like the Cariocas... Splitting Lanes. For the full story see Splitting Lanes. |
The Adventure Begins... An Adventure
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An Adventure should be exciting, It should tease the senses, It should challenge the norm, It should be risky, It should introduce one to fascinating people. It should taste spicy It should smell fragrant It should make one stand in awe, It should bring one to his knees in humility, It should etch unforgettable images in the mind It should take ones breath away, It should replenish the soul, When the surroundings appear common, When the names and faces become a blur, When the food becomes bland, When the smells are pungent, When a sunset just signifies the end of the day, When the road ends and there is nowhere else to go, The Adventure Ends. |
The Adventure Begins... Rio de Janeiro to Buenos Aires... The Home Stretch
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My time in Rio de Janeiro and Brazil was coming to an end. It was time to go home. I could feel it in my heart. And, I needed to figure out how to bring Emi, my motorcycle, with me. I was considering selling Emi in South America at the end of my trip. However, Emi had been such a good ride that I really did not want to leave her behind. I decided that I would take her back home with me. I inquired with a few air cargo companies in Brazil to see what it would require and what it would cost to ship my moto from Rio to Houston. One company told me up front that they simply could not do it. A second company gave me a quote that was simply outrageous. The last company gave me a quote that was incomplete and could not promise a shipment date. It looked like it was going to cost over $2000 to ship my moto out of Brazil and there was still a chance that there would be some mystery fees at the port. It was not looking promising. I looked into an alternative. I knew about a place in Buenos Aires called Dakar Motors. They have helped many motorcyclists over the years import and export motos in and out of South America. I sent Dakar Motors an email and requested a quote. They replied within 2 days with an estimate of $1750 and said that the shipment could be accomplished within a week of drop off. So... it was time to hit the road... Rio de Janeiro to Buenos Aires. According to my map it would be 2922km (1815 miles) and an estimated 5 days of riding. That is a distance roughly equivalent to riding from San Francisco, California to Austin, Texas... a nice little leisure ride... let the adventure begin! http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_Egm2I8FuD...rio+to+ba1.jpg First I rode from Rio de Janeiro to Curitiba... 850km and an estimated 12 hours in the saddle. I arose early in the morning at 7am and hit the road. I watched Rio de Janeiro disappear in my rear view mirror. Some great memories in that city. I reached the outskirts of Sao Paolo by mid day. I thought that I was making good time, then got caught up in the maze of freeways within Sao Paolo. I probably lost 1 or 2 hours getting through the city. Once I broke away from the city it was easy riding. I arrived in Curitiba at about 8pm... it was a full day of riding... the longest day of riding during my entire journey. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gSO4_jTeo-...rio+to+ba2.jpg I knew that the next segment that I would ride would be a fairly strait and easy segment. From Curitiba to Foz do Iguacu... 637km and an estimated 8 hours. Turns out that I knocked it out in 7 hours. I checked into a hostel and planned my route for the next day. I knew that I would have to cross the border and hoped that it would all go smooth. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vGZSSP6c6a...rio+to+ba3.jpg I decided that I would cross the border and ride until I got tired. I crossed the border on the Brazilian side with little trouble. As I was processing my motorcycle paperwork to enter Argentina I noticed that the aduanas (customs) officer typed in my VIN (chassis) number incorrectly. He typed in my title number instead of the chassis number. I pointed out the mistake. He said that it would not matter. He said that he was the chief at the station and if there was a problem I could give his office a call. He refused to make the correction. I felt uneasy... I decided that I would take my chances and rolled away. I eventually rode from Foz do Iguacu to Santo Tome... 442km and and estimated 6 hours. The weather was perfect for riding... not too cold... not too hot. There was one segment of the road that was closed, so I had to take a little detour. It added some time to my ride, but it ended up that the views along the detour were really beautiful... sometimes it just works out like that. Santo Tome was a small town along the border of Argentina and Brazil. Across the border lie the town of Sao Borja. It appeared that there was not much going on in the town, but there was a casino. Gambling in Brazil is illegal, however it is legal in Argentina. I suppose that the casino existed so that Brazilians could cross the border and find a little entertainment. I dropped into the casino for an hour and walked away a winner... at least enough to pay for my hotel room. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7eTGS4tGx-...rio+to+ba4.jpg I started my fourth day with an early start once again. I traveled from Santo Tome to Concepcion del Uruguay... 697km and an estimated 8 hours. The ride was uneventful. I kept reminding myself to pay attention. I realized that my ride... my trip... my adventure was coming to an end. I did not want to let my guard down, but I found myself reflecting on all that had transpired over the past year. I arrived into Concepcion del Uruguay late in the afternoon. I rode around the town for a little while to see what I could see. Concepcion was a town along the Uruguay River. It attracted tourists from the small towns in the north and from the city in the south. For me, it was just a stop on my way to Buenos Aires. I found a hotel at which to stay and a restaurant at which to eat. I bedded down. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CWyxqmW4iT...rio+to+ba5.jpg The last ride of my ride. The last segment of my adventure would be from Concepcion del Uruguay to Buenos Aires... 296km and an estimated 3:30 hours. It would be an easy day. I would not even need to start early. I left Concepcion at around 9am and rode toward Buenos Aires. I was almost there! http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RozSVAv_1w...ina+-+2934.jpg Well... almost. About 15 minutes outside of Concepcion I ran into a police checkpoint. I had passed many police checkpoints on my journey... never a problem. I pulled over and presented my documents. The policeman asked for my license, my permiso (temporary license) and my title. I turned all the documents over to him. He examined them, found them in order and returned them to me. Then he asked for my insurance. I turned over a copy of my insurance. It was actually my insurance policy from the USA. It was in English, not Spanish. I didn't think that it would matter. After some examination he returned the document to me. Then he said that the insurance was expired. Really! http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vvusyWSXKD...ina+-+2935.jpg This was the first time in all of my travels that I had been asked for my insurance. The document that I had passed to the policeman did indicate that my insurance was expired. After all, I had been away for over a year. However, I did have a valid insurance document... but it was in electronic format in an email in cyberspace. It was not going to help me in this situation. So I thought to myself... This was just a shakedown. How far did he want to take this? How far did I want to go? How much was he going to ask for? How much was I willing to pay? I realized that it was early in the day. I had all day to reach Buenos Aires. Let's see who would have more game. So.... I decided to play along. I explained to the policeman that my insurance was valid, just that the document was expired. I explained that I could provide him a valid document if he would allow me to access the internet in his office. Predictably... he said NO. I asked him if I could return to Concepcion to visit an internet cafe to print out a valid document. He said... NO. I asked him if he would call the insurance company to verify that I had insurance. He said.. NO. I asked him how much the ticket would be for expired insurance. He said that it would be 817 Pesos (about US$185). I asked the officer that if he issued me a ticket, where would I have to go to pay the fine. He said that I would have to pay the fine in cash, today and directly to him... or he would be required to impound my motorcycle. At that moment I knew for sure that it was a shakedown. Let the game begin! There are many techniques that adventure motorcyclist use to get out of tickets. Some hire a fixer. Some pretend to not understand the language. Some slip a small amount of money into one's documents for the policeman to palm. Some provide lots of irrelevant documents and information. Some pretend to be sick. Some carry around legal documents. Some simply try to stall the conversation with the hope that after some time passes the policeman will eventually let them go... realizing that they could be extorting money from other vehicles. I usually pre-empt the situation and ask the policeman for assistance. I tried this technique, but it was not working. Therefore, I attempted to stall. I told him that I did not have that much cash. He said that he would have to impound my motorcycle. I asked him to explain the law about impounding my moto. He went into an explanation that basically ended with him stating that he would have to impound my moto. I asked if he could issue me a ticket that I could pay to the city government. He said...NO. I asked if I could pay at the next city. He said...NO. He pointed to a little shoe box in the corner of his office and said that I had to pay cash directly to him... today. I asked him a number of other questions. I could tell that he was getting frustrated. By this time, probably an hour had passed. Other cars were passing by and being pulled over for various traffic violations. Sometimes the police officers would write them a citation and they would continue on their way. Sometimes they would make a contribution to the little shoe box and continue on their way. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i6-Jeh9BtD...ina+-+2938.jpg I noticed that the police officers would often show the traffic violators a card. The card contained a list of violations, the amount of the corresponding fine, the al contado (in cash) discount of 25% and the price for paying in cash if one chose to take advantage of the "cash discount". Nice of them to do the calculation. I asked the policeman if I could see the violation card. Surprisingly he obliged. I looked it over and it was quite extensive... it listed all the options... just like a menu in a restaurant. Choose your violation... seguro obligatorio vencido... no uso de luces bajas... falta chapa patente... it went on and on. I pulled out my iPhone. When the policeman saw me, he asked what I was doing. I told him that I wanted to calculate how much my fine would be and convert the amount into US Dollars. I did the currency conversion calculation. Then, I snapped a picture of the menu... uh... violation card. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bEv8e1bINA...ina+-+2932.jpg And... I snapped a photo of the policeman... Officer Guilletti P. As you can see, I was holding the card in my hand to hide the fact that I was taking a photo. I thought to myself... Officer Guilletti you are in for a long day.... I have nothing but time. I had a million questions to ask Officer Guilletti. I asked him about the violation card. I asked him the difference between the fine of driving without insurance versus driving with expired insurance. I asked him about the al contado discount. I asked if he could translate a few words for me from spanish to english. I asked him about riding without lights. I asked him about the law. I asked him about the impound facility. I asked him if there was a supervisor that could explain the legal system to me. I asked him about the weather... I went on and on. By this time it was almost noon. We had been talking for over two hours. I knew that lunch time was approaching and that soon he and his crew would want to take a break for lunch. I could tell that he was visibly anxious. He wrote me a ticket. After some time, he finally said that I either had to pay the fine in cash or he would impound my motorcycle. I pulled out my wallet and showed him that all I had was 243 Pesos. I explained that I did not have the full amount in cash and asked if he would allow me to ride into Concepcion to get some money from an ATM. Amazingly... he agreed! I hopped on my moto and headed back to Concepcion. I rode strait to an internet cafe, logged on, downloaded my valid insurance document and printed two copies. I stopped by an ATM and withdrew 800 Pesos... just in case. I rode back to the police checkpoint. As Officer Guilletti saw me approaching he directed me to pull over. He looked really happy. He asked me if I had the money. I said that I had something better. I said that I had a copy of my valid insurance document... and handed him a copy. I watched his smile turn into a frown. He was fuuuuuuurious. He said... NO NO NO. He said that he had sent me back to Concepcion to get money. I played innocent. I said... but look I had proof that I had insurance... that's better, right? He handed me back my documents and told me to get out of his booth. Probably 3 hours had passed since I was first pulled over. His frustration was getting the best of him. At about this time, another policeman approached the group of policemen who were issuing the traffic violations. He called them into the main office to eat lunch. I could tell that he was their superior by the way the other officers responded to him. As the policemen were moving from the road into the main office, I approached the superior officer. I explained my situation. I told him that I was pulled over earlier in the day, that I presented all of my documents, that I presented my insurance document that was expired, but now I had my insurance document that was valid. I explained that the policeman had written me a ticket, but now would not tell me what I needed to do to cancel it. The officer took the ticket and said that he wold discuss the matter with the other officer. About 5 minutes later, Officer Guilletti returned outside. He directed me to his little booth. He said that he was going to help me out so that I could continue on with my journey. He said that he was going to reduce the fine of the ticket. I asked him what the fee would be. He said that it would be 243 Pesos. 243 Pesos was the exact amount of money that I had previously shown him that I had in my wallet. Basically, he wanted all the money in my wallet. Ironically, when I went into the town to print out my insurance document I had to pay 2 Pesos for the internet service and the copies. So I actually only had 241 Pesos in my wallet, plus the other 800 Pesos that I had withdrawn from the ATM. I told the policeman that I appreciated his help and the "discount" on the fine. I said that I would like to say thank you to his supervisor for his assistance. At this point, I think that I broke Officer Guilletti. He asked me for my ticket. I handed it over. He wrote something in his ledger. Then he scribbled something on the ticket and said that this note would verify that the ticket was cancelled. He handed me the ticket and said that I was free to go. I asked if I still needed to pay anything. He said... NO. I didn't need to hear anything else. I hopped on my bike and rode off toward Buenos Aires. What an interesting day. Freeeeeeee! |
The Adventure Begins... How To Make A Motorcycle Fly
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Have you ever seen this wall? If you have traveled in South America by motorcycle there is a good chance that you may have seen it. It's a wall inside a business called Dakar Motors. Dakar Motors is a motorcycle garage, motorcycle hostel and motorcycle transport operation in Buenos Aires, Argentina. The owners Javier and Sandra open up their doors to motorcyclists from all over the world and make them feel welcome. I had contacted Dakar Motors the prior week about arranging transport of my motorcycle from Buenos Aires to Houston. I arrived at 9am on Monday morning and the process began... http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KI_0FXmGPB...ina+-+2954.jpg First, I checked into the hostel. Really it was just a room in the back of the garage. There were two bunk beds with room for four people. There was a small kitchen. And, there was a swap shelf... a shelf with unneeded items left by other travelers for other travelers. There was only one other traveler staying in the room. He was a Britt just beginning his travels in South America. Of course we had lots to talk about and got along nicely. After settling into the hostel, Sandra and I went over the paperwork that would be required to transport my motorcycle. Sandra had already briefed me by email about all the papers and copies of papers that I would need to have ready. I had all my papers in order, but there was one small detail about which I had a question. When I crossed from Brazil to Argentina, the customs officer filled in my motorcycle title number in the place of my VIN chassis number. I asked Sandra if this would possibly cause a problem. She said... YES. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sk-MigdU-T...ina+-+2941.jpg So I was directed to the central office of customs to correct the problem. On Tuesday morning, I arrived to the customs office and waited in the invisible line. After some time passed, a clerk greeted me, took my papers, then said that she would be right back. I waited in the invisible line once again. After some time, the clerk said that her boss would be reviewing the request, but he would not be able to respond until after lunch. I left the office in search of some food. I returned to the customs office in the afternoon to check on the progress of my documents. I waited for a while in the invisible line, then after some time I was told that the boss would like to see me. I passed through to the other side and sat down in the office of the boss. We exchanged some pleasantries, then he apologized for the error that his staff had made when I entered Argentina. Wow... shocker. He was very nice and very accommodating. He placed a few phone calls, typed some notes into his computer keyboard, then printed a document. The documented basically stated... To Whom It May Concern... and verified the correct VIN chassis number for my motorcycle. Not too bad. It only took about 6 hours in total. Honestly, I thought that it might take days. Good thing that the boss was on the job. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wSxRaw62Om...ina+-+2981.jpg On Wednesday I went to this office building in the city center. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kIf_9pG6-6...ina+-+2980.jpg Inside the offices of Navicon, my documentation was processed for the shipment of my motorcycle. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ttw6wUfOSb...ina+-+2984.jpg I then went to the bank next door to withdraw the equivalent of US$1,600 in Argentinian Pesos. It was a huge wad of money to be carrying around in city. Luckily, I only had to walk next door to the office of Navicon once again to make payment. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UIs1CNIqmA...ina+-+2989.jpg I presented my documents and my payment to this office. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pkpaGmlG5J...ina+-+2990.jpg In return, I received a Shipment Way Bill which described how my cargo would be shipped from Buenos Aires to Houston. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1VIQjFg4Id...ina+-+2974.jpg On Thursday, I rode my moto to the airport cargo terminal where I encountered this pallet. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i4Rb2mRJz9...ina+-+2968.jpg I removed my front wheel and my rear case to give my shipment a smaller profile. Some workers then strapped and wrapped my bike like mummy. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DbrWPSUlVy...ina+-+2970.jpg They placed a few stickers on the wrapping http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-affJxnta8S...ina+-+2967.jpg This sticker designated that United Airlines was transporting the pallet to IAH (Houston Intercontinental Airport). http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d15M7twUpF...ina+-+2966.jpg This sticker designated that my shipment was fragile. Oh... if only they knew where I had ridden my motorcycle... they would have known that my motorcycle was not fragile. Emi might be important... but fragile... NO. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-egc4iW4UGH...ina+-+2972.jpg Anyways, they carried my motorcycle away and placed it into some waiting dock. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n9UPyuVR0c...ina+-+2973.jpg All that remained for me to carry was my saddle bag, my tank bag and my helmet. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nU_spTNZbp...ina+-+2979.jpg I returned to the city center and checked into a hostel. I would wait at the hostel for two days before I received confirmation that my motorcycle would be flying out on Saturday. I booked a flight for myself to leave on Sunday. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xqn40WLOr7...ina+-+3020.jpg On Sunday, I arrived at the airport and prepared to depart. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J4DEb-Sn_j...ina+-+3018.jpg I pulled out my valuables from my saddlebag and stuffed them into my backpack. I checked my saddlebag in as luggage at the baggage check area. I carried my backpack and helmet with me. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RuW15y-r7O...ina+-+3022.jpg Then I boarded my flight... leaving Buenos Aires... leaving South America... ending the adventure that had began over a year ago. |
The Adventure Begins... Home... Austin, Texas, USA
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My flight from Buenos Aires to Houston went according to schedule. I arrived safely and was greeted at the airport by my mom. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pPW0jo-B_7...Home+-+268.jpg We drove over to the airport cargo office and picked up Emi. She was wrapped up just as I remembered. I remounted the front wheel and rear case... and off I rode. No lie, it was pretty sweet to spend some time visiting with my family in Houston. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_iohChbD-U...Home+-+027.jpg After a couple of days in Houston, it was time to hit the road once again for my final ride to my home in Austin. I decided to not take the most direct route along the interstate highway, but instead opted to take the alternate route that would take me along some of the backroads through central Texas. I headed down highway 90. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t4yib8Itl6...Home+-+034.jpg This alternate route was the best way to be reacquainted with Texas. Along the way I would see farm houses flying the Texas flag. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E_u6YfM-jb...Home+-+031.jpg Texas cattle http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rE9iLcnWLI...Home+-+020.jpg Texas small towns http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EkfHUKqurj...Home+-+022.jpg Texas drive-in fast food restaurants like Dairy Queen. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bm1Oh5Bs4e...Home+-+017.jpg Texas small businesses like smokehouses http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lsPyd5qJbN...Home+-+036.jpg Texas courthouses http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PxkZWxKau7...Home+-+026.jpg Texas grain silos http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZL_dRB9G54...Home+-+037.jpg And, in the town of Shiner, Texas... http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qDnoDGo3uH...Home+-+042.jpg There is the K. Spoetzl Brewery also known as the Shiner Beer Brewery. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pEIR_p5v58...Home+-+041.jpg I stopped by the brewery for a tour and tasting, but unfortunately it was closed. Do you think anyone would have noticed if I hauled off one of those beer kegs on the back of my motorcycle? http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JDJ5cL65Bn...Home+-+046.jpg And yes, we have oil in Texas. This oil pump just happened to be decorated as a see saw with kids on top. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EeU_GYCukY...Home+-+048.jpg This oil pump looked a bit out of place. We do not have killer whales in Texas, except at the amusement park in San Antonio call Sea World. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BZGCCEdZM-...Home+-+044.jpg I passed by the town of Luling, Texas which is famous for this BBQ restaurant called City Market. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UF7wuUPy2-...Home+-+086.jpg In Texas we cook our meat by slowly smoking it in a pit for around 6 to 8 hours. The meat absorbs the smoky flavor of the wood, becomes very tender and a little charred on the outside. The types of meat that one can usually find in a BBQ restaurant in Texas include brisket, ribs and sausage. Sometimes they may have a pork loin, prime rib, chicken or turkey. The side dishes are pretty simple like coleslaw, beans and potato salad. Some places will sell beer, some places will allow BYOB (Bring Your Own Beer). My apologies to my friends in Argentina and Brazil... but our beef is better! http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FJ7atm_fIL...Home+-+049.jpg I passed by the town of Lockhart which is famous for BBQ. This small establishment is Black's BBQ. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P5TJPfVIfJ...Home+-+050.jpg This large establishment is Kreuz's BBQ. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VMbrmeFaMF...Home+-+062.jpg Finally I arrived at my home in Austin, Texas. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l2wFaSi1Y1...Home+-+067.jpg 27,549.6 miles or 44,336.8 kim... 14 months... 16 countries... 3 continents... what an adventure! |
The Adventure Begins... Austin Moto Fest
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I feel honored. I have been asked to give a talk about my adventure "Texas to Tierra del Fuego" at the Austin Moto Festival on April 13th at 5pm. I'm putting together a presentation right now. I will be discussing adventure motorcycling trip planning, bike selection, bike preparation, gear selection, and tell a few stories and show a few slides about travel in Latin America. Stop by and check it out if you are in the neighborhood. For more information: Austin Moto Fest |
The Adventure Begins... The Entire Route
I really did not have a route planned out when I began my adventure. I just rode to the first placed, asked around, then found the second place, etc. But, I wrote a post on my blog for every place that I visited, thus was able to record my route. Here you go...
Texas to Tierra del Fuego and Beyond Texas Austin McAllen Mexico Reynosa La Pesca La Poza Azul El Cielo Alta Cima Tamtoc Xilitla Zacualtipan Aquismon El Tajin in Papantla Xalapa Puebla Cholula Oaxaca Puerto Escondido San Christobal de las Casas Palenque Guatemala Huehuetenango Todos Santos Cuchumatan Panajachel Santa Catarina Chichicastenango Gualan Antigua Santa Lucia Milpas Altas El Salvador La Hachedura San Blas Juayua Apaneca Laguna Verde Ataco Alegria Berlin El Espino Honduras El Almatillo El Espino Nicaragua Somoto Leon Cerro Negro Granada Mombacho San Juan del Sur Costa Rica Samara Monteverde Mastatal Uvita Mombacho San Juan del Sur Panama Volcan Santiago Panama City Portabelo Darien Gap Colombia Bogota El Desierto de Tatacoa San Augustine Popayan Ecuador Quito Isla Galapagos La Mitad del Mundo Mindo Banos Lago Agrio Cuyabeno Amazon Cuenca Ingapirca El Cajas Loja Vilcabamba Macara Peru Piura Chiclayo Huanchaco Chan Chan Lima Huacachina Chala Arequipa Chile Atacama Tocopilla Chanaral La Serena Santiago Puerto Montt Puerto Varas Frutillar Puerto Natalles Punta Arenas Argentina Provenir San Sebastian Ushuaia Antarctica Argentina Lapataia Tolhuin Rio Grande Chile Punta Arenas Puerto Natales Torres del Paine Puerto Natales Osorno Argentina Villa de la Angostura San Martin de Los Andes Junin de Los Andes San Carlos de Bariloche Paso Del Indio Puerto Madryn Puerto Piramides Peninsula Valdez Mar Del Plata Buenos Aires Rosario Cordoba Mendoza San Rafael Valle de la Luna, San Agustin de Valle Fertil Ischigualasto La Rioja Andalgala Tucuman Salta Siete Colores Quebrada de Humahuaca Posta Coctaca La Quiaca Uruguay Colonia del Sacramento Bolivia Tupica Salar de Uyuni Potosi Sucre Saipina Santa Cruz San Xavier Concepción San Ignacio San Miguel San Rafael Santa Ana Samaipata Perez Sucre Tarabuco Bourgue Monteagudo Camiri Villamontes Paraguay San Pedro El Chaco Parque Agripino Encino Mariscal Filadelphia Loma Plata Concepcion La Laguna Blanca Asuncion Encarnacion Jesus de Tavarangue Trinidad Ciudad del Este Argentina Puerto Iguazu Brazil Foz do Iguacu Guarapuava Curitiba Ilha do Mel Florianopolis Sao Paulo Rio de Janeiro Niteroi Ilha Grande Buzios Petropolis Ouro Preto Mariana Itabirito Congonhas Tiradentes Curitiba Foz do Iguacu Argentina Santo Tome Concepcion de Uruguay Buenos Aires Texas Houston Shiner Luling Lockhart Austin |
The Adventure Begins... From a blog to a book
I have really enjoyed sharing stories and photos with each of you through my blog TheAdventureBegins.tv. Your views, comments and support have been a great encouragement to me. Who would have thought that anyone would show an interest?
Almost on a daily basis I receive feedback in person or though my website about traveling in general or about my adventures. And often people ask me... what is next? Well... I have been thinking about writing a book. But I have been wondering if anyone, other than my mother, might buy and read a book about my travel experiences. So I thought that I would try to survey you... my family, friends and fellow adventurers. Would you take one minute to complete this five question survey? I promise that it will take less than 30 seconds. Your feedback will be greatly appreciated. Don't worry, you would not be under any obligation to buy a book at this time, I'm just asking questions and trying to gauge interest. Click here to answer... The Survey Cheers, Troy |
The Adventure Begins... A Conversation with Adventure Motorcyclist David C. Parkinson
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I recently had the opportunity to chat with a fellow adventure motorcyclist named David C. Parkinson. I thought that some of you might be interested in what we talked about. David, tell me why? Ever heard of the Langston Hughes poem "A Dream Deferred?" Hughes mulls on what happens to deferred dreams. Doing this motorcycle adventure to South America was my deferred dream... I had always wanted to go on a long trip from when I was a little boy. In college I had an opportunity but started a company instead. When I left my job at Microsoft I had another opportunity but started anothre company instead. I knew at some point I had to make this happen; or else I would never travel and my dream deferred might shrivel up or explode! http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Wsk7pzpmb...NE/s400/f.jpeg The best thing about my motorcycle is… I ride a 2005 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom. It's incredibly reliable. I have put 20,000 of the most difficult miles for any motorcycle to take but the V-Strom keeps coming back for more. The worst thing about my motorcycle is… At 250kg dry, without gas and gear. It's a bit heavy for off-roading but that hasn't stopped me from taking it plenty of places it was never intended to go! I cannot travel without… My Charles Schwab check card. This is a travel secret everyone should know about. It's one of the only cards I know of that you pay 0% foreign transaction fees on, is free to use at all ATMs worldwide, and finally they'll reimburse you for the ATM fees the ATMs charge you. So essentially you can get money out for free, whenever you want, whatever country you're in (no limits). The account is free (you must set up a brokerage account and a checking account) with no minimums. What I do is transfer $1000-2000 into my Schwab account to cover a month's expenses. With this technique you stop thinking about the ATM charge as they are reimbursed at the end of the month, and it makes it easier when you know you will be exiting a country not to have too much currency left over. When I’m riding solo, I think about… What a lucky ******* I am to have the opportunity to travel by motorcycle in Central and South America. More people should travel this way! I like it when I ride into a town and… See the smiles on people's faces. There's something about a motorcycle that just cheers everyone up. I would like to go back to… Mexico, Colombia, Nicaragua. I was in love with Colombia and spent nearly 6 months there! I was surprised to find out that… Almost anything can be repaired. When abroad, it's normally the case that repairing your items is far cheaper than buying new items. Locals' ingenuity have repaired everything from my tent, my motorcycle, my watch, my aluminum panniers, to my GPS. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DmG-EoJ4lk...XA/s400/g.jpeg My attitude about travel is… Do it when you have the opportunity. The single most important thing that I could tell someone is… When you like a place; stay there for awhile. When you meet a person you like, stay there for awhile. It's great travel advice that I wish I had followed more often. You can read more about David and his adventures at his website www.davidparkinson.com |
The Adventure Begins... Hammock Camping for the Adventure Motorcyclist
Check it out, fellow Adventure Motorcyclist David Parkinson wrote this review about hammock camping and about the Hennessy Deep Jungle XL Hammock for TheAdventureBegins.tv.
See the video About Hammock Camping After a long day of riding a motorcycle in a foreign country... you’re tired... you’re exhausted. When the sun starts to set, the last thing you want to think about is finding a flat and dry place to set up your camp shelter - setting up your tent, moving your gear inside and inflating your air pad. Over the last twenty months of riding my motorcycle from Seattle, Washington to Buenos Aires Argentina, I’ve spent many nights camping underneath the stars, mostly ‘stealth camping’. For the uninitiated, that means camping where there is no official campground. While I love stealth camping, it can get tiring, especially when you’re spending 20 minutes to setup and another 20 minutes to break down. After 20 months of packing and unpacking, I admit I don’t particularly enjoy the shelter setup or breakdown process. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/ky...jkEcoKu4Eug_IW (Eno DoubleNest Hammock) But when I left the States, I didn’t just have a tent, I had a hammock! The motto of the Boy Scouts is “Be Prepared.” So, with that in mind, before I left the US I bought a Eno Doublenest Hammock and an accompanying Eno Guardian Bug Net. During 20 months on the road, I spent about 20 nights in this setup. While the setup process differed from that of setting up my tent, I didn’t notice significant time savings, nor did I have a good fly for the hammock, which meant I got rained on a few times. Also, adjusting the hammock was a pain as I had to tie and re-tie knots with webbing each time. When I lost some of my better webbing, I bought inferior nylon webbing, which resulted in me being dumped forcibly on the ground more than once. Also, it was difficult to get the knots out of my webbing once the hammock had been loaded. I cannot recommend these for the motorcycling traveler. I needed a better solution. I’m currently plotting a motorcycle trip from Buenos Aires, Argentina through Brazil and Venezuela. I did a lot of research on the perfect hammock at hammockforums.net. The two best brands discussed most often were Hennessy and Warbonnet. What sets these two brands apart from the rest, other than their inherent quality, is that they each have a bug net integrated with the hammock. This means no separate bug net at setup/breakdown time. I decided to go with the Hennessy Deep Jungle XL for two reasons: At the time of my writing, 1. The Warbonnet hammocks required a 3-4 week lead time to purchase and receive a hammock, and one must buy a tarp separately. 2. The Hennessy hammocks were readily available and ship with a tarp. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/X-...zwdVhO3rbTiLA5 (Hennessy Deep Jungle XL Hammock) Here are my initial thoughts on the Hennessy Deep Jungle XL Hammock. I will also post a follow-up review after I’ve used it more extensively along the beaches and jungles of Brazil and Venezuela. Features and Functions Pack size/weight: I think I can scrunch the whole setup to the size of a football... and this package includes the fly as well! It weighs in at 2 pounds 13 ounces, less than one half of the weight of my REI Half Dome 2 Plus tent! Pouch in the hammock: You can hang gear like your keys, tablet and head lamp in the integrated movable pouch that hangs on the ridgeline of your hammock. SnakeSkins (integrated stuff sack): These are basically nylon stuff sacks that you place on your hammock line that make packing the hammock a simple matter of sliding them over the hammock. Bubble Asym Pad: The hammock ships with an integrated bubble pad for cold weather camping. I plan on using my hammock in hot or tropic environments so I can’t comment on this. Integrated Bug Net: This saves an incredible amount of time with setup. Two zippers allow you to seal yourself in, or open the bug net and drape it. Before, I had to run a ridge line, then run clips, then hang the bug net. In addition, my previous hammock took up more space in my motorcycle panniers because the bug net was separate. Double Layer Hammock Material: Mosquitos are a pesky bunch and, believe it or not, they can actually bite through a single layer of material. When buying a hammock, I recommend you purchase a double layered hammock. Fly Included: There is a rain fly included so you have a complete sleeping system. If weight and size are not an issue, many people opt to use a hex tarp. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/YL...xQs7p0PlLek1Mk Fast Setup/Breakdown with Single Ring Suspension: When it comes to hanging the Hennessy, the generally accepted model is their figure 8 lashing, which keeps their cord brand new. The only downside to this method is that it is not adjustable. I wanted something that’s easy to tie, easy to un-tie and adjustable for those times when one end of the hammock hangs too low or too high. You can read more about this dilemma here. This suspension system has made setup of the hammock no more than a few minutes. Hennesey doesn’t recommend this system as it can lead to cord damage. Pros Fast setup and breakdown Integrated bug net Great nights sleep! (I spent last night in the hammock here in the hot muggy weather of Kansas, I’m hoping it was a good test for Brazil) Complete out of the box: comes with everything you need out of the box... nothing else required Cons Lacks the footbox feature of the Warbonnet hammocks. Warbonnet hammocks feature extra material for your feet to make you lay flatter. That being said; I slept very well in the Hennessy. Cost: it’s a bit expensive at $339.95, but the good news is there are Hennessy models starting at $99 (The Scout) I just happen to be 6’6” and needed a longer hammock. If you compare the price of the Deep Jungle XL compared to the Warbonnet + the tarp you must purchase (if you don’t want to get rained on); these top of the line hammocks are very comparable in price. Closing Thoughts I'm excited to take this gear to South America. I'll follow up from Brazil! - David Parkinson |
The Adventure Begins... On Any Sunday - The Movie
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I enjoy watching films of all genres. But I must admit that I especially enjoy watching films about motorcycles and motorcycle travel. Over the next few weeks I'll be screening some of my favorite motorcycle movies. Check it out... On Any Sunday is a classic film and perhaps one of the most nostalgic motorcycle movies of all time. The film is a documentary about the various forms of motorcycling as the sport was emerging in the 1970's. Malcolm Smith, Bert Lawwill and Steve McQueen star in many of the scenes. My favorite segment is with Malcolm Smith riding the International Six Day Trial in Spain. While the style and cinematography of the film is perhaps a bit dated, I think that the humor is timeless. The complete film is now available for viewing on YouTube or click right here. (1:36 minutes) If you have not already joined my blog or facebook page for TheAdventureBegins.tv, why not? https://www.facebook.com/pages/TheAd...98783000136160 |
The Adventure Begins... Mondo Enduro - The Movie
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The Adventure Begins... Dust to Glory - The Movie
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The Adventure Begins... Basic Course on Adventure Motorcycling Riding
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A long, but pretty decent video documenting an introductory course by RawHyde Adventure on basic adventure motorcycle riding. Click to see the video The video covers off-road riding position, balance, acceleration, clutching, turning, breaking and picking up a dropped motorcycle. (1:40 hour) |
The Adventure Begins... Traveling North Korea by Adventure Motorcycle
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Vice.com shared this short documentary about a group of adventurers who traveled by motorcycle through North Korea and South Korea. Their choice of motorcycle was the Suzuki DR650. The group of five New Zealanders include Joanne Morgan, Gareth Morgan, Dave Wallace, Brendan Keogh and Tony Armstrong. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ys-G06l76T...advkorea3.tiff The real journey began years ago, when they decided they wanted to ride the Baekdudaegan, a mountain range that stretches the length of North and South Korea's shared peninsula. After countless hours of negotiation and coordination with both governments, they were granted permission. It was, the Morgans believe, the first time anyone's ever traveled through both countries like that since the partitioning of Korea in 1945. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A6H1P6Q800...advkorea5.tiff During the entire journey they were escorted by North Korean security. Joanne and Gareth shot the entirety of their trip. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lLBhCqcCff...advkorea4.tiff By making the trip they hoped to demonstrate how Koreans can come together over what they have in common. To symbolize this, the group took some stones from Paektu, a holy mountain in the North, and brought them to Hallasan, a similarly sacred peak in the South. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gLzg0Scww0...advkorea2.tiff It's a view few foreigners have seen, and even if planning the road trip straight through the Demilitarized Zone required working within parameters set by the highly choreographed and restricted confines of North-South Korean diplomacy, this was a journey worth documenting from start to finish. Check out the video (16:16 minutes) Source Vice.com |
The Adventure Begins… The Dakar Rally
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It is almost time for the 2014 Dakar Rally! http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5PbIekJkqX...400/dakar2.jpg The rally starts on January 5th in Rosario, Argentina, then passes through Argentina, Bolivia and Chile, finishing on January 18th in Valparaiso, Chile. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRmChMt7hU...ina+-+2778.jpg When I was motorcycling through South America I passed by some of the same cities and over some of the same terrain… although at a much slower pace. I can guarantee that the scenery will be incredible. Check out this video of the Backroads of Bolivia. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oY2GybPjR6...400/dakar4.jpg Whether you are a fan of the motorcycles... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-br_Pxbf4o3...400/dakar5.jpg the quads... http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yn7dQOQkrR...400/dakar6.jpg the cars... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zv0SLOEOQJ...400/dakar7.jpg or the trucks… the Dakar Rally is the most amazing motor rally in the world. I will try to post updates as the competitors move through the various stages, so stay tuned. For more info check out the website for the Dakar Rally. |
The Adventure Begins… 2014 Dakar Rally Preview
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The Dakar Rally… 6 days and counting down! Check out this preview which captures a little bit of the landscape, the vehicles and the passion. video |
The Adventure Begins… 2014 Dakar Rally Official Teaser
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5 days and counting down! :clap: Check out the official teaser with some great beauty shots. video |
The Adventure Begins... An Interview with Marc Coma about KTM450 and the Dakar
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Marc Coma is a three time winner of the Dakar Rally. He rides a KTM 450. The KTM motorcycles have dominated the Dakar, winning the event for the last 13 years. He is definitely one of the favorites to win this year. Check out this interview with Coma about the 2014 Dakar Rally and his ride. video |
The Adventure Begins... An Interview with Cyril Despres... Yamaha 450 and Dakar
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Cyril Despres is a five time winner of the Dakar Rally. Despres won the 2013 Dakar riding a KTM 450 motorcycle, but decided to try his luck this year riding a Yamaha 450. He is considered the top rider in the world, but will he be able to deliver a victory with his new motorcycle? Check out this interview with Despres about the 2014 Dakar Rally and his new ride. video |
The Adventure Begins... An Interview with Helder Rodrigues about the Honda CRF450
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Helder Rodrigues has never won a Dakar Rally. However he is hoping that his luck will change. He is riding a newly designed motorcycle by Honda Racing Corp. (HRC), the Honda CRF 450. The 2013 Rally of Morocco was recently won on a Honda CRF 450 with all five of the HRC team members finishing in the top 10. Will the newly designed motorcycle carry an HRC rider to the podium? Check out this interview with Rodrigues talking about the 2014 Dakar Rally and his ride. video |
The Adventure Begins... Dakar Rally 2014… Day 1 Rosario to San Luis, Argentina
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Day 1 of the Dakar Rally traveled from Rosario to San Luis in Argentina. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dh17TGM7Tw...ar_day1.2.tiff The terrain profile. Check out the stage summary video |
The Adventure Begins... Dakar Rally 2014… Day 2 San Luis to San Rafael, Argentina
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Day 2 of the Dakar Rally moves from San Luis to San Rafael in Argentina http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ecCr9FIa0f...ar_day2.2.tiff The terrain profile. The riders pass through wine country and hit the first of the sand dunes. Check out the stage summary video. |
The Adventure Begins... Dakar Rally 2014… Day 3 San Juan to Chilecito, Argentina
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Day 3 of the Dakar Rally directed the riders from San Juan to Chilecito, Argentina. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kiuoR96wnN...ar_day3.2.tiff The terrain profile indicates that it was an up and down day. The riders passed over one of the highest points ever traveled during a Dakar at over 4300 meters (14,100 feet). Check out the stage summary video. |
The Adventure Begins… Dakar Rally stage summaries
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Dakar Rally 2014… Day 4 San Juan to Chilecito http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R9rloUIrKn.../dakar5.1.tiff Dakar Rally 2014… Day 5 Chilecito to Tucuman http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CDY8uGt371.../dakar6.1.tiff Dakar Rally 2014… Day 6 from San Miguel de Tucuman to Salta http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VdbFI8XlF4.../dakar7.1.tiff Dakar Rally 2014… Day 7 from Salta to Uyuni http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v03DXQoG2Z.../dakar8.1.tiff Dakar Rally 2014… Day 8 from Uyuni to Calama http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i7nVsOfmY4.../dakar9.1.tiff Dakar Rally 2014… Day 9 from Calama to Iquique http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sgjZVlRLb1...kar10.1.1.tiff Dakar Rally 2014… Day 10 from Iquique to Antofagasta http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K34gl2UfPt...dakar11.1.tiff Day 11 from Antofagasta to El Salvador http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bXB8ovZmn5...dakar12.1.tiff Dakar Rally 2014… Day 12 from El Salvador to La Serena |
The Adventure Begins… Dakar Rally Final Results
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The final… Day 13 from La Serena to Valpairiso |
The Adventure Begins… Boats, Windmills, Tulips and a Dream
I'm starting a new adventure. Unfortunately there is no motorcycle riding involved, but it does include boats, windmills, tulips and a dream.
I'm probably just going to post and update with links to my blog to make things simpler. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-41SztRdcKj...nds+-+1132.jpg Day 1 & 2 - Houston to Amsterdam http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0TZL6QLNfK...nds+-+0168.jpg Day 3 - Hoorn, North Holland http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d2c-_5EsC9...nds+-+0254.jpg Day 4 - Arnhem and Paleis Het Loo http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vbRF-g-_ad...nds+-+0357.jpg Day 5 - Kinderkijk http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xwTNVeSZ4K...nds+-+0439.jpg Day 6 - Antwerp, Belgium http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c0q0VYF4Ny...nds+-+0667.jpg Day 7 - Ghent and Bruges http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CsJoOudqdV...nds+-+0793.jpg Day 8 - Walcheren and The Delta Works http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mZLEEycWYH...nds+-+0899.jpg Day 9 - Keukenhof Gardens http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ArdWjNaF7B...nds+-+1149.jpg Day 10 - Amsterdam http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oVm0o1dtrF...nds+-+0126.jpg The Bicycle… as Recreation, Transport, Workhorse, Individualism, Expression, Art, Life |
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