Repairing a dented rim in Quito, Ecuador?
 

I just noticed this on my bike. Can anyone suggest the best way to repair this? Can I pound it out somehow, or do i need to take it to a shop (and if so any recommendations?)

THanks...........


Matt

I've hammered out a dent in a steel rim worse than yours and got it back to virtually unnoticeable. It took me about half a day (frequent stops to check I'd not made a mess of it) so it's not just a case of a few large whacks with a hammer, but it saved the rim and I'm still using one I did a few years back now.

If you've nothing to lose give it a go - but start with a light hammer! You'll need to loosen the nearby spokes before starting to hammer and tighten them up / true the wheel afterwards.

If the rim's ally then I'd seek expert advice. In my experience some will straighten, some will break, some need heat, some don't.

From the look of it - no cracks - I'd say it is a 'soft' material that can be reformed. Might be best to saywhat bike it is - someone may have past knowledge.
How skill full are you at panel beating? If your good then .. I suppose you would not be asking. I'd use a bit of hard wood between the hammer and the rim. Best if the wood is shaped to the rim profile - use a wood file. A good panel beaters shop may try to do the job - ask ... if they are willing tell them you don't want it perfect .. you can get perfect later at a proper shop that does wheel rolling. And of course - remove the wheel form the bike and the tyre and tube from the rim before they (or you) start.

A pro wheel guy would use a Jig to straighten the rim. Yours looks Aluminum to me. Question is ... is it a tubeless or tube type wheel?

If it's tube type then I would not touch it until you have access to a pro doing the work. If tubeless ... then it looks like another good rock hit may release air or allow bead to break. Not good.

I dented my V-Strom cast Alu wheels several times similar to yours. In every case I continued on, did at least another 1000 miles ... much of it OFF ROAD, never a problem. Once back in USA I had a pro fix it. ($100 USD)

More recently I put a big dent in my tube type Alu rim on my DR650. I've just left it be. Eventually I'll have it repaired, but with a tube in there, no real danger, no problem and I don't "feel" the dent when riding. What Problem? :smarts:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-hMGmwPJ-L.jpg
DL1000 V-Strom, cast Alu wheel. Not quite as bad as yours. A pro wheel guy straightened it using heat, a jig and a big hammer. 2 months after repair ... a minor crack appeared. I kept riding. Not advised, if it cracks, replace wheel. Impossible in Ecuador I would think.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...0/P1000442.JPG
Tube type on DR650. No problem. Done 3,000 miles so far.

Do the best you can. Good luck!

bier

Given the size of the dent I'd say it is tube type. And it has centre pull spokes.
A tubeless with that size dent would not hold air.

It is indeed a steel rim with a tube. I took it to a shop here and got it repaired for 5 bucks. Not bad!

Good news!
Just for the edification of others who may fall into this predicament ... can you describe how the wheel was repaired?

Hammer-Tong-furnace-press ??? :smarts:

Or did you just walk away and go have Coffee while repair was done?

Cheers, safe travels (watch out for nasty rocks!)

bier

He took the wheels off (both had little dents) and hammered them, then touched them up with some black paint.

The real deal was getting custom pads retro-fitted to my AKT brake pad parts by Carlos at his Tecnimoto shop. The pads could only be obtained in Colombia. He refurbished them, installed them, and fine tuned them for 12 bucks. It turned out to be a big job of trial and error to sand the pads to brake evenly. Took him half the day. Superior work, super knowledgeable guy! Grateful!

I'm glad moto repair is so affordable in Ecuador. iphone repair is not...$110 to replace the screen on my 5S....don't break your iphone in Ecuador!!!

Matt

If aluminum is heated then quenched in water it is brought to its softest state, then applying a non metalic tool to it while hitting with the minimum number of times ,since you are work hardening it as you hit it, if in doubt reheat treat and quench, then continue the forming process, a natural gas or similar flame is not too hot, using a marker to judge the heat. sound tap the finished area to compare.

Good tip! :thumbup1:

What about my knackered DR650 rim? It's steel. Heat? No heat? On Steel.
Beat it, bend it, or .... ??

Cheers! bier