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The Zilow Gap: between Chyta and Khabarovsk
Regularly there are questions on the HUBB about the Zilow Gap, between Chyta and Khabarovsk in Russia. The FAQ is: is it doable? I did it, in september 2004, so it is doable. Here I give the information about driving by motorbike through the Gap. I did it from Chyta to Khabarovsk but as most people will come from Vladivostok I describe the gap in the reverse direction.
General Information: From Chyta to Khabarovsk is 2165 km. My motorbike is BMW F650, model 1999, with carburators. Tires: Continental TKC-80's. For the front wheel is no appropriate 80's tire, so I took a somewhat wider one. I passed the Gap in september 2004 and it took me a week. When I started from Chyta weather conditions were good (dry weather) and were so a week before. I had one day of rain. I used the Atlas Automobilenje 2004 which is available in bookshops in Russia. Road Conditions: Don't worry for the first 250 kilometers: good asfalted road from khabarovsk up to 70 kilometers north of Birobidzjan. From 70 km north of Birobidzjan to Zawitinsk the Atlas promises paved road. However when I passed the road was under renovation, largely unpaved but with a hard surface with few grit on it. Good to drive but the trafic caused large and dense clouds of dust. So dense that it was not possible to see the boudary of the road. Because of the dust driving over 50 km/h was not possible to me. From Zawitinsk to Sjimanovsk you will find a good local road, covered with asfalt. Easy to drive, like a holiday. From Sjmimanovsk to the village of Siwani, about 100 km north of Sjimanovsk there is a new tracee. Unpaved but with hard surface, few grit on it. 80 km/h and more is possible. From the village of Siwani to village of Gonzja (about 150 kilometer east of Skoworodino) the tracee follows a local road (indicated in yellow on the Atlas). The surface is loam, very damaged. When I did this part it rained and the surface was covered with mud. Under dry conditions it will probably be very dusty. 20 - 30 km/h under wet conditions. From the village of Gonzja to Skorowodino is a unfinished new tracee. Unpaved, hard surface, many potholes, washbord, locally thick layers of coarse grit. 40 - 60 km/h From Skoworodino to the village of Yryzja (100 km west of Skoworodino) is a new finished tracee, unpaved but with a hard surface, few grit. Excelent to drive but very dusty. 60 km/h. From Yryzja to the town of Mogotsathe road is under construction as are the bridges. This part is riddled with detours and locally covered with very coarse grit. Difficult to drive. 40 - 60 km/h. From Mogotsa till the village of Sbegd is a local road, loam surface and absolute riddled with potholes. Very difficult to drive. 20 km/h. From the village of Sbegd to the town Sjilka is a new finished tracee. Hard flat surface, few grit, excelent to drive. 80 km/h and more is possible. From Sjilka to Chyta the road is paved, asfalt. Facilities: Fuel stations: fuel stations are indicated in the atlas. In practise there are more because the atlas indicates only the AZS-stations. To get fuel is not a problem but stations may be far from each other. 95 is not always available. Maintance: maintenance stations are also indicated in the Atlas. They are far from each other. Locally you may find "Zjinomontag", changing of tires. There they can repair tires too. Overnight stay: "gostinitsa's" (hotels) you find in Birobidzjan (a real tourist hotel), in Sjimanovsk (horribly overpriced, to avoid at all costs), Magdagatsj, Skoworodino and Zjireken. In Zjireken the hotel was temporarily closed but the manager arranged overnight stay at local people. Apart from the regular hotels there is overnight accomodation at the regional railway stations. I stayed in the railway hotels of Zawitinsk and Mogotsa. Simple but cheap. Probably it is possible in Sjimanovsk too. Other possibilities are the camps of the road workers or just asking locals for "kwartiri" (B&B). Advices: Don't do this road under rainy conditions. It should have been dry for a week and stay dry for another week. Check your bike before you leave, not only the engine but the frame too. Take your time. |
Thank you very much for this very detailed information, which is certain to be very helpful if I do this route next year. I greatly appreciate your posting it.
Mike Idaho |
Three freinds riding KLR 650's recently rode this road. They met a couple of blokes who had done it on Honda Gold Wings comming the other way..yep the large tourers with electric reverse! It took the KLR riders one week to do the gap.
alec |
After printing out and re-reading your post a couple of times, some further questions have occurred to me - sorry to have so many.
Other than the one day of rain, how was the weather in September? Did it get uncomfortably cold at any point? What part of September did you ride the gap - early? late? Were places to eat readily available? Thanks again for all the info. Mike |
I did Siberia around half of September. Yes, it was very cold. Freezing at night and in the morning. It took untill two o'clock before temperature became comfortable and after 5 it started to become cold again. From the end of september you can expect snow. East of Skoworodino climate is much milder than to the west.
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hi guys,
thanks for the useful discussion topic... i'm thinking of doing the northern hemisphere route (london, europe, siberia, alaska, canada, usa, london) next summer. some questions, info and thoughts. 1) when you refer to the gap, are you referring to the whole of the route from khabarovsk to chita - or is that just a part of that route? from the opening message, it doesn't seem that it's all problematic. 2) you say that fuel is reasonably available. my tank will give me 170 mls/270km. is that ok? 3) if you need a copy of the atlas mentioned, i got one at stanford's, long acre, london, wce2 9lp. it's a kick-ass mao shop in central london and i'm sure they do mail order. it's only available in russian, though (so the map-expert lady told me), so you have to learn cyrillic script! (what a headache - but necessary, i suppose). 4) you say 95 is not always available - how does a bike that uses it respond to other fuels? 5) which carrier did you use to get to the area? dhl? regards zb (simon) |
Thanks for the info on the climate. I think I shall plan on doing this route no later than the end of August.
Simon- Thanks for the info on the Atlas. I'll try Stanford's - hopefully they have a website? Regarding low octane gas, it's my understanding that bikes vary greatly in their tolerance to the low octane stuff. You might need to talk to your dealer regarding your particular bike. Perhaps you could carry octane booster if necessary. I emailed DHL about bike transport and they replied they will only transport a bike that has never had gas or oil in it. They referred me to a subsidiary, which I emailed, but they have never responded. I also emailed Mavial Magadan Air (they fly from Anchorage to Magadan once weekly), about bike transport, but also have not responded. I remain stumped on getting the bike to eastern Russia from Alaska. Mike Idaho |
Although Alaska to Russia HAS been done, it remains very difficult and sporadic. Seems to be very much on again / off again. And, none of the possible shippers really WANT to do it, it's a lot of hassle.
I'd recommend shipping to Japan and taking the ferry over - dead easy, done all the time. ------------------ Grant Johnson Seek, and ye shall find. ------------------------ One world, Two wheels. www.HorizonsUnlimited.com |
Hi Mike,
If you can't get any service from Alaska to Magadan, your best bet is to ride down to Vancouver, can be done in a week easily, ship to Japan, and take the ferry to Vlad., as Grant suggested. |
Answers for Zenbiker.
1. I described the whole route from Khabarovsk to Chyta, which is generally known as the Zilow Gap. However, it is not really a gap. 2. Fuel capacity 270 km will be OK. Fuel Stations are indicated in the Atlas I mentioned. It will be wise to take a jerrycan of fuel with you. 3. Fuel octane. This topic has been discussed many times on HU. A BMW F650 wants first class food but can run on 80 if you drive carefull. I lowered the compression of my motorbike in such a way that it can run in 84 without a problem. 5. I didn't used a carrier. I drove from the netherlands all the way down. Have a nice time |
Thanks, Grant and Werner, for the advice. I may be forced to use the Vancouver (or Seattle) to Vlad option although I prefer Anchorage (a nice ride from Idaho and I have relatives near there) and hoped to avoid Japan for the same reason as Marco (another thread) - the carnet, also one less visa, etc. Apparently my next step is to check into the cost of the carnet (unless anyone happens to know).
Thanks again, and once again thanks for the original post on this thread which I greatly appreciate. |
hello,
I was just wondering if you would have any "siberia travel piccies" floating around on the internet ? grtz |
Re the russian road atlas..you can get them in any book store in any russian city as well. The road signs are in Russian cyrylic script which makes reading a russian map easier. Its a bit like pictionary until you get the hang of it..but it comes quickly.
http://users.netlink.com.au/~asimpson |
hi, chaps,
been reading werner's book (nice one w. - i realised i sent you the wrong dollars - hope that's ok - no slight intended!) and it describes the process of obtaining necessary travel documents. does intourist deal with carnet, werner? on the hu homepage there's a link to shipping through which i found reference to magadan airlines. i haven't been in touch yet. i also found a reference that i can't find again to a specialist bike freighting organisation. anyone know about either of these? zb. |
zb, the website (English) address for Magadan Air (apparently also called Mavial Magadan Air)is http://magadanair.us/
Other contact info is below: Magadan Airlines 4600 Postmark Drive Ste. NC-304 Anchorage, AK 99502 USA Tel.: (907) 248-2994 Fax: (907) 248-2893 E-mail: admin (((attttt))) magadanair.us Please let me know what you find out. Mike Idaho [This message has been edited by Grant Johnson (edited 19 December 2004).] |
Hi guys
martheijnens wrote: From Mogotsa till the village of Sbegd is a local road, loam surface and absolute riddled with potholes. Very difficult to drive. 20 km/h I can completely acknowledge this information. This is the part where i had a big accident. I was driving there with about 70km/h, it was very comfortable to fly over the potholes until a big stone laid in the middle of the road... :-) The thread which is mentioned by liketoride2: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb...ML/000706.html <- There is some information regarding Shipping to/from vladivostok Greetings to martheijnens which i met in vladivostok, hope you are doing well! Marco |
To add my 5c worth...maps
Anything Stanfords in London have got is probably out of date(I've been there). I got my maps in Moscow as I go there every year. The best overall atlas and most uptodate I found in August 2004 was... Atlas Avtomobilnui dorogi rossiya, stranui sng, pribaltica isbn# 5-95230-003-0 obviously it's all in russian. originally printed in 2000 but updated for 2004 (released for print run of 40,000 on 22.01.2004) ie changes since say 11/2003 unlikely to be included. Its a hardback. The scales are mostly 1:1,000,000 , but obviously in siberia this stretches up to 1:2-3-4-6,000,000 . Distances in km are shown. I think it's the mutts nuts. Road maps are available at 1:200,000 from St Petersberg to Tyumen but for you 2 wheels people you'd need another bike just to carry them! However, they may be useful. Many shops sell them but better to buy them at source in Moscow from the factory shop of edited: central experimental war map factory Building 9 , Ulitsa Bolshoi Polianka Moscow Shop has wierd hours 10-12.30am and 2-4pm but all maps here about 50-60 rubles (YES!) each - a map covers one region eg krai, oblast, republic. I bought the whole set! On the subject of road conditions between chita and khabarovsk - martheijnens - well done. For my part, I plan to go to Vladivostock in 2007 by road - so anyone providing extra hard information on conditions between chita and khabarovsk is thanked in advance. If someone wants to be really good, an accurate diary of road conditions (and speeds achievable) and towns against kilometers travelled would be very useful for planning purposes - as would uptodate reports on "hotels". Rgds Les [This message has been edited by 4wheels (edited 21 December 2004).] |
Les, thanks for the great info on maps. I am planning to travel from Magadan across Siberia in summer 2005 (Yakutsk, Skovorodino, CHita, Ulan Ude, Irkutsk) and at the moment only have a "GeoCenter" 1:10,000,000 road map covering this area. What would you suggest as a better and more detailed map for me? ANy help greatly appreciated.
I am travelling to Russia soon so could pick up something there. Adrian ------------------ |
The Atlas Automobilje, which I mentioned, is absolutely the best. It covers the whole of Russia, contains all information you need and is sold everywhere in Russia
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I travel to Russia regularly on business. I can pick up a bunch of Atlas Avtomobilnye next time I am there - Early Feb probably next one (was there alst week) ... so if anyone wants any copies picked up, let me know.
Adrian, how are you planning to get to Magadan? - - - www.TokyotoLondon.com [This message has been edited by colebatch (edited 19 December 2004).] |
Starting in Magadan so will be flying there. FESCO ships stuff there regularly so I am trying to get my bike there for when I arrive. I am also in process of getting carnet (from Australian Automobile Assoc).
Why do you ask? ------------------ |
Adrian:
Just curious as to what options were available to get out of there. I know flights operate between Magadan and Anchorage. There is a whole episode on the road from Yakutsk to Magadan on the Ewan McGregor / Charley Boorman DVD available at www.LongWayRound.com. That section and their adventures in Mongolia are the two best parts of their whole story. |
Adrian, you don't need a carnet for Russia, do you? Are you getting it for other countries further along your route?
I may be wrong, but I believe one can traverse Russia and Europe (as long as one stays in the EU countries) without needing a carnet. If this isn't correct, someone please correct me. Mike |
Mike,
Based on my research (which may be imperfect), you do not need a carnet de passage for Russia. My route is: Russia, Mongolia, China, Kyrgystan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran and Turkey. Based on my research, you must have a carnet for Iran and Turkey. I am going to get this from our local (Australian) automobile association. Let me know if you know otherwise re:carnets or have any questions. Adrian ------------------ |
Walter,
Thanks for the pointer to Obe Wan's DVD - much appreciated. To answer your question re: options for "getting out" - perhaps I was not clear, I am starting my trip in Magadan and travelling overland on my bike to Yakutsk and onwards to Skovorodino, Irkutsk and so on. Let me know if you want/need to know more. I understand that a few others have been able to get through this part of Siberia. I understand that the final part of the trip to Yakutsk (from Khadanga) is viaferry in Summer and that the road from Ust Nera is the most questionable...... As always, any advice greatlt appreciated. Adrian |
You are right Adrian, that road is definately do-able but not many people have actually done it. I spoke with Eric and Gail Haws a few years back - they are 50-60 year old librarian / lawyer couple form the US who did the road 2 up about 10 years ago ... It seems as long as you are not pressed for time, it can be done. River crossings are the issue between Magadan and Khandyga, and from there its a ferry, as you mentioned. The rest of your plans looks very do-able with the exception of the China part. Getting into China on a motorbike is hit and miss (about 1% hit and 99% miss) - so I would make a pretty well worked out contingency plan to go back to Russia and Kazakhstan in order to get down towards Kirghizstan if as is likely, China proves a problem.
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If you are interested is going to Tajikstan, will you be tring the Pamir Highway? You might need a special permit. In 2003 you could only get the permit once you where in the country and only in Dushanbe. We tried from Dushanbe, but had to turn around due to ill health. Will be giving it ago again in 2006.
Cheers |
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Rgds Les |
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It is possible to get other maps which deal with specific regions in the far east, but they are likely to be much more out of date and even if recently printed will not have been recently revised (ie up to 10 years ago) Therefore there is not much point in getting them. The scale of these other maps might provide more information, but it will be old as I said. Rgds Les |
Remembered that I located the website of the russian company that produces the map which I bought...
http://www.okf.ru/System.asp?Item=Catalog Scroll to the bottom. Left hand column - click in the bottom row... And hey presto - a pic of what you need. edit:pic is v small but okay to identify map Rgds Les [This message has been edited by 4wheels (edited 21 December 2004).] |
...final word I promise...
Magadan, Yakutsk, Skovorodino The Atlas I recommended has Magadan Oblast 1:4,000,000 Republic of Saka-Yakutia (Yakutsk) 1:6,000,000 Amurskaya Oblast (Skovorodino) 1:3,000,000 To do this journey, either all the rivers must be frozen OR for some of them you will need to find a friendly russian truck to take you across. Part of the journey is on a ferry. Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman did write a book and though the style is not to my taste, there is useful information. Probably best to flick through it in the bookshop. Other maps I managed to obtain from the large bookshop in Moscow called... Molodaya Gvardia located very close to Metro Polianka (actually not far from the map factory I posted earlier) Republic of Buryatia 1:1,000,000 printed 2003 Amurskaya Oblast 1:1,000,000 printed 1994 Chitinskaya Oblast 1:1,000,000 printed 2003 Khabarovski Krai 1:2,000,000 printed 1998 You could probably (almost certainly) find similar scale maps for Magadan Oblast and the Republic of Saka here. Needless to say this shop is VERY well stocked with road atlases and maps of all russia, though the map factory ones were more expensive here - so buy direct from the map factory if you want 1:200,000 maps of anywhere east up to Tyumen. Note that I have identified 4 map 'factories'. They no doubt produce larger scale maps in their locality which may not reach moscow, but if you are in that part of the world, it may pay to hunt about the shops / bookstands / kiosks a bit... Moscow : Central Experimental War Map Factory Omsk : Omsk Cartographic Factory Chita : Zabaikalskoye Aerogeodesic Company Khabarovsk : Far Eastern Aerogeodesic Company Regards Les |
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