Whakham afghan
 

Hello
There are any riders who have gone through the Afghan wakham, after the Iskashim border post in Tajikistan?
the track that runs along the Panj up Wuzed / Wazit you it is practicable?
Going To Sarhad-e-Boroghil is that possible in 1200 GSA?


tiger

Myself and a friend did in June this year.

Personally I wouldn't dream of doing it on a 1200. Eshkashim is fine but the Wakhan is a mix of cobbles, heavy sand and gravel. If you are really interested (or mad) I can send you some photos.

Just beyond the village of Sargaz is a problem. The bridge back to the Southern bank was in a very bad state of repair with planks missing etc. My friend realised too late and had to gas it across the gaps. The road on the Northern side was washed out with waist deep contra flowing water (Maybe possible if passed in early morning??)

For those considering it:
The Visa was possible to obtain in Khorog. We were asked to submit our documents and call back the following day. We then had to call back with our bikes when the Consul General returned. He quickly interviewed us and insisted that we sign statements that we would not go outside Eshkashim and the Wakhan. EU citizens $100.

The Rupos (Vehicle permit was $100) from the Consulate.

After reading a previous trip report we decided to ask the lady in the consulate if there was a further charge at the border. She said there was but did not know how much. This is a definite scam. When in customs this $100 was requested and we handed it over on the promise of a receipt and on the basis of the lady in the Consulate. The receipt turned out to be another entry stamp on the back of our rupos. (They want you to bring a copy but they have the EU funded facility to do so at customs). The mufti clad chief of customs repeatedly threatened us not to tell anyone in Eshkashim that we had paid (He questioned us again on this on our return).

Tajik customs do a quasi thorough search of your bags both ways. They did apologise afterwards saying, and rightly so, that it was their job. Be prepared to wait on the whim of the guard commander at the gate though.

We did bushcamp but I can highly recommend the Norweigan guesthouse at the village of Sast (First village up the side valley). Expensive but you will be well fed. Accomadation in Afghan Eshkashim is expensive. Marco Polo Guesthouse is easy to find.

Its worth engaging a fixer in Eshkashim to do the necessart registrations. You will be asked to produce the various papers at 3 points along the corridor. Khandud will take some time as you need to meet the governor and chief of police. No checkpoint but someone will flag you down. This is the only real place to buy supplies.

hello Tadhg,
Thanks for your reply, Normaly we can have visa in french Consulate.
if t'is possible and if we have the time we will go. and of course , if is not too difficult with heavy motorbike, ... we will stop.
have you need a guide for documents with police office, army office and tourisme office?
how many day you stay?


i give you my email adress in mp.


thierry

Thierry,

I have heard that even though some EU countries have Afghan consulates they do not like issuing visas to tourists. Khorog was the best bet but visas are more expensive there.

We paid a local to do all the registrations. It's possible to do yourself but you'll need to search previous threads for the office locations and you'll need a good few hours. Otherwise just pull up in Eshkashim and someone will approach you. The mobile phone shop close to the crossroads will change Somoni to Afghani for you.

We only stayed a few days. The corridor is comfortably ridden two days each way but its nice to take it slow. Afghan side of the border closes at 2pm during Ramadan.

I'll send you a few photos.

tadhg, yours photos are beatifull , i answer on your mail.


merci beaucoup:-)
thank's very much


thierry

Sambor has been to the Afghan Wakhan a number of times on Africa Twins

About low river in the morning:
The Wakhan at that place has a too big catchment area. We also expected a lowering, but the level did not change in the morning, anyway we got through the hip deep water. On the back, with cooler weather the levels were significantly lower.