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Road of Bones: Who's done it?
I know of three journey's within the last few years on motorbikes; Adrian Scott's solo, a group of riders (Blue-dunes.com), and of course the three guys in the long way round (counting the Swiss cameraman, as he deserves as much credit). I'm about to ride this same route traveling Westward from Magadan in mid-late June~early July, and wonder if perhaps I'm a bit insane to do this without any company. Wonder what the chances are that I'll find another riding this same route and direction around the same time frame? Any tips?
Thanks, Mark |
Of course you are insane, have you seen siberian mosquitoes, the mud, the rain, but thats not got anything to do with it. It must be one of the worlds more challenging rides, especially if you like Taiga. You know it can and has been done solo or in a group, it just depends on how you choose to do it.
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I can add one rider to the Road of Bones list. Last summer somewhere west of Birobidzhan I encountered a young woman named Sasha Melnikova (I hope I have her last name right), 23 years old, who had ridden solo from her home in St. Petersburg to Magadan, shipped from there to Vladivostok, and was in the process of riding back to St. Petersburg (which she successfully did). The amazing thing was her motorcycle, a 10 year old 350 cc Russian made two stroke piled high with luggage and gear. It would do about 45 - 50 mph maximum on level ground, slowed down badly on any incline, appeared to have a bent frame since it didn't track straight, and a worn out shock causing it to bounce badly over any bump of significance. And, she bent a rim during the four days we rode together, which she pounded out somewhat with a big hammer borrowed from a tire repair shop.
More details, and pictures, about Sasha and riding with her are on my website, www.rtwrider.net. After hearing of her adventures I couldn't help but feel very sheepish about all the time, preparation and money I had put into my motorcycle for this trip (although I'm glad I did). She is an amazing rider. Regarding the biting insects, I found them to be much less a problem than most Siberian travelers have described because I went during the last half of August. By then the nights were getting chilly (apparently killing most of the bugs) but the days were sunny and pleasant and there was no mud. Mike Idaho |
insane?
I do not consider myself (technically) insane, although there were moments alone in the taiga/swamp/bog/frozen rivers when I did lose my sanity temporarily. Thoughts like "what the **ck do you think you're doing here you idiot" flashed through my mind quite often...
I just looked at the map, saw a red line and knew others - including the now departed SImon Milward http://www.millennium-ride.com/ had done it. Simon also went solo, although his state of mind at the time can be questioned (refer to the poems he wrote about the road of bones.....). I was naive, didn't know any better and certainly would not have got through without the help of others (truck drivers, kind villagers, etc etc). So, of course it's possible, just frikkin hard. Depends how much you like your own company and can manage your bike alone in the mud and rivers. I reckon the acid test is being able to pick it up fully loaded from when it falls down and down and down and down (including underwater) and also being able to push it through for long distances through the bogs by yourself. In reality the hardest stretch is the 400kms or so from Kadykchan to Tomtor. The rest is off road gravel and no sooo bad, although the 100kms east of Khandyga, beyond the Aldan River is awful if its been raining. Go for it. Good luck finding others. I asked a couple of friends and they all laughed in my face.... Let me know if you have specific questions. I know some great places to get arc welding done and fractured bones fixed. Adrian www.users.bigpond.net.au/AdrianScott Hi Alec! |
Let's not forget Mondo Enduro did it, but at least 10 years ago when it was in much better shape (they tell me). With little or no maintenance since then it gets worse and worse, so get in there before it turns back into taiga. A brilliant book on the area is 'Kolyma Tales' - absolutely chilling...
Ch |
Hi Mark
I read about a couple of polish guys who went through last summer as well and they said the going was "favourable" - not sure what that means !! I've sent you an email as well to run an idea by you - I'm doing a loop similar to the Long way round guys but out Vladivostok, your post made me think about reversing the direction - see what you think ! Kevin |
Thanks for all your replies and my apologies for not replying sooner. I've been very busy trying to get the bike sorted (still in parts, and only has 21 miles on it-It's a KLR650) and getting all the stuff I'll need for the trip.
Mike and Adrian; I’ve read each of your web sites a few months back with great interest. Your web pages offer considerable amounts of valuable information, not only in regard to the ride itself, but the people and the customs first hand. Adrian; it was your experience on the Road of Bones that made me decide on Magadan, I look forward to the challenging riding. I must admit though, I'm a bit apprehensive about the waist deep mud holes, river crossings and possible encounters with hungry bears emerging out of hibernation. Mark |
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Mark, remember that waist deep for Adrian is neck deep for the rest of us.
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I think more people have done it than we know. I rode from Vlad. to Ulan Ude and met some Germans on the way that were heading to Magadan. I've never heard from them again or read stories on the internet. They had all their information from friends of theirs who had done it that I have also never heard about online. I wouldn't do it myself mind you, but I bet it is done more often than we think.
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Many unknown trips
We also met 3 riders from Canada 1 up and 2up on Kawasakis who arrived in Chita the same time we did, they had come from Magadan. We never heard from them again. They had some great photos of sucken bikes and mud. It looked great. Dont know if they are known of or not. Many people are on these roads that never come to light.
Ill keep that trip for a later date. |
Others on the Road of Bones
The "Canadians" recorded their journey at www.motodreamers.com If you like mud and mud and water and taiga and mosquitos, there are many many photos here, videos and some stories. These guys went in 2005 two weeks ahead of me, before it rained a lot.......
Re: the bears, according to the locals they are really hungry in Spring time when they wake up (about May), less so in "Summer" in July, although I saw plenty of evidence of them along the road (apparently Russian bears do not s**t in the woods....) Adrian |
Excellent info., thanks! Lots of interesting pics and info, still need to review it all. Rather than going through a shipper, Jacek and Greg & Natasha shipped their bikes as checked-in luggage. I tried contacting Magadan airlines directly but the phone number is not in service.
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Shipping to Magadan
Forget it. Too hard to line up the shipping schedules and there's not so much traffic anyway. I also got my Bike to Magadan on an airplane (from Vladivostok). They made me pull the wheels off and lots of other stuff then I wrapped it in cardboard then they stuck on top of the mail bags inside the hold of the plane...
I tried and tried to organize shipping, even via Anchorage without success. I also tried Air Alaska but it was all too hard.....I would recommend Magadan Airlines ("Mavial"). Money talks and anything is possible.... I ended up dealing directly with the president of the Airline (in Vladivostok) and he was most helpful. Good luck. I have a contact in Vladivostok who helped me do all this. Let me know if you want his contact details. www.users.bigpond.net.au/AdrianScott |
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...triking+viking
Glen, the guy above did it last year. I understand he's kinda famous in the USA? He was the guy who wrote Two Wheels Through Terror. Skip thru his posting at the above address and you will find the Road of Bones story. He went thru not long after Ewan and Charley declared to the world that it was it was too tough a road to try. I ain't going to comment on those two...ahem...adventurers. If you contact Glen at his website www.strikingviking.com he may also be able to advise you about shipping details. He is currently doing a slide / book tour of the USA I believe. Cheers: Jaq. |
Jaq: I don't think Glenn (Striking Viking) rode the Road of Bones. He started in Vladivostok and rode the trans-Sibrerian road. I believe the Road of Bones is the road from Magadan to Yakutsk. It's a much tougher, rougher road than the trans-Siberian road from Vladivostok.
In addition to a harder road, it's much more difficult to start or end in Magadan because transport options to/from there are very limited compared to Vladivostok. -Scott |
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Mark |
Two up solo?
My wife and I are also planning to tour through Siberia to North America. Long Way Round inspired us to do this ride, if they can do it with all thier stuff, so can we. We're on a 1150GS Adv. We plan to go that way in August 2007. We traveled through Africa on a $20 a day budget, is north Asia doable with that money? Our route will be from UAE, Iran, the 'Stans', Russia, North and South America. Mabe Mongolia? Is it worth going to?
Johan |
No info on flights this year from Anchorage to Magadan due to Magadan airlines financial probs, or probs with RUS airlines deciding who gets which flights etc. Didn't know about this until arrival in Anchorage, so the only choice is to go to Korea in order to enter Russian. I will arrive in Korea on Sunday, 2nd July. Once I ferry to Zarubino I do not know if I can get a Vladivostok flight to Magadan...I don't know if a ferry service is available from Vladivostok (or some place I can ride to in Russia) to Magadan. Only other choice then would be to ride from Vlad to Never (near Skovordino) and up to Yakutsk-Magadan and then back track, a time and tire consuming venture. any other ideas suggestions?
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JC
go to mongolia, if its the only thing you do. Miles upon miles of dirt tracks and open plains. Has to be seen to be believes, but worth every minute you are there. Missing it already myself tbh |
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posted on behalf of a friend who's just completed the ROB....
We have ridden the road of bones. No problems with fuel (we have 500km worth of gas on board). Mud was a problem for the big fat GS...but the XT skipped through it all!!! Lots of little rivers to cross and we had two where a truck was required and 1 where we caught the ferry. Do-able in 5 days (Jaktusk to Magadan). We took 9....3 days stuck at the 2 rivers and lots of time spent pushing my GS!!
Brief description on www.etribes.com/markstowe when i get more time i will do a more detailed description of the route. However, pre-plan your escape route from Magadan....all the flights are busy in the summer. We were told of two germans ahead of us....we never caught them up....but we saw them riding out of Magadan BACK to Jaktusk becasue they were unable to get out of Magadan!!! (BTW, they crossed both rivers without a truck......rain makes a massive difference!!!) Mark Vladivostock |
Eric and Gail Haws
Eric did the road a couple of times back in the early 1990s .... not bad for a 60 year old lawyer and his librarian wife, 2 up on a GS. Like Chris Scott pointed out earlier in the post, it was in better shape then.
http://users.rio.com/tynda/Page1.html.html |
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Very courageous plans, however, if you want to raise your chances of crossing the Road of Bones on your own (without the help of big trucks) plan to do it at the beginning of July when the rivers might be at their lowest level. Mongolia, it is a must if you are up for even greater challenge. Good luck, Greg. www.motodreamers.com |
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indeed, our ROB crossing was quite positive since we had great weather and we were in a 3 bike company. Greg www.motodreamers.com |
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I also thought you completely desappeared. It was nice meeting you gus on the road on your little 250s. I am just a little confused about the fact of being or not being known. Is there any club of known people that we don't know of. Just curious. Hey, maybe one day we come for a tour to Australia, 2 months through the outback. Greetings, Greg www.motodreamres.com |
Fascinating stuff
Hi all
This is a really good classic HUBB thread. Fascinating reading of trips/plans at the cutting edge of bike travel..... Best wishes to all |
Road of bones this June 2007
Mark,
We are doing the Road of bones this June (2007) then on the Mongolia, Moscow, and europe finish around Sept. Not on bikes but in an a canter 4x4 and isuzu 4x4 light truck ( campers) have organised container to be loaded 23 april to magadan. potenially have the editor of the Russian 4x4 mag with us, but still to be confirmed. If you are still interested in going may be able to squese into container. let me know. we are definately on our way. kym |
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Road of Bones June 07
Hi Edde,
Received your pp We plan to leave Magadan around 20th June, so will keep an eye out for you. By the time we meet we will both have some stories to swap Cheers and safe travelling Kym |
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I'm interested in this information, please could you send address of the forwarder because it is impossible from here (france) to get any reliable information. I'm used to travel with my 4x4 (4WD) in Africa, with my friends. This time, I'm alone, and I plan to cross europe, Ukrain, Kazakhstan and other x'stan countries, then Mongolia and russia to Magadan... or to Anadyr. From there I want to go to Alaska. I would be there (Magadan or Anadyr) 1st december 2008. How can I ship my car from russia to Alaska? Is it possible? In December? Or any other suggestion! Thank you for the answers. Reynald |
Road of Bones - Kolyma Highway
This road is not used 1 and half year. Me and mine friend made it in summer 2OO9. Two on one motorcycle BMW F 800 GS. From Prague to Magadan (over Tomtor) and back to Prague. We haven't any problems with Gas, but we have many problems with shock-absorber, clutch, tubes, etc.....
There is a photographs from the trip. OFF Siberia ... ОФФ Сибирь's Photos - From Jakutsk tu Krasnojarsk | Facebook Google Earth Kolyma Highway (old route) map with the GPS coordinates. To download a kmz file. Road of Bones 2.3.2009 Kolyma highway - Google Earth Community :mchappy: |
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there are some people here from New Zealand who want to take landrovers through the old way and return by the "new Federal" highway love your photos!!! Did you need trucks to cross some of the rivers?or I guess the rivers were down enough in August? well Done Sorry I cannot read your Blog!!! |
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This year it was dry. In August, we drove through the road without the help of trucks. 2009 September Kolyma Highway Road Condition Report | AskYakutia.com |
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Eva/Desktop/you%20need%20rod.jpg[/IMG]http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...id=96974313727OFF Siberia ... ОФФ Сибирь's Photos - for car | Facebook
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I can read russian and had found the local FWD clubs in magadan etc for information. yes going by your self is not a good idea What a great trip you guys had!!!:thumbup1: |
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