I have heard different things on this. One is no, not if have Russian insurance (they are in a customs union with Russia), one is no is it not required.

In the end it was really easy to get and only cost $12. Every cop that stopped us looked at it so it was worthwhile IHMO.

One thing I never received was a tempory import permit, not sure what the go is there. Was never asked for it not even when I exited the country.

All i had was my visa and the migration card you fill out and get stamped, they take you photo at passport control also

As craig there says if you can buy cheap insurance its worth it as another bit of paper to flash at police, it was never asked for or mentioned at the astrakhan-atryau crossing / nor at the pavlodar - novosibirsk one.

The only policeman that looked like he would have been courrupt tried to flag me down was on the detour north avoiting krz/biskek on the road to Almaty, he flagged me in but i just waved/thumbs up and kept riding. Nothing good would have come from stopping in that 1 horse town. I was worried he would radio ahead but the next towns sheriff asked where i was from and the moment i said london waved me on without pausing for a breath. The police are nice in the west and get worse the further east you go in my experience

Great update!!!
Thanks to everybody!!

Yes, thanks for the update.

I entered Kazakhstan last Saturday via Korgas. Everyone at the Kazakh border was very friendly and helpful. I didn't have to queue and they even didn't check my luggage.
I got a temporary import permit (a white piece of paper with the data of my motorbike on it) which I have to hand in when I exit Russia (!) as they told me. I haven't got an insurance in Kazakhstan, but my German insurance covers Russia. Well, haven't been stopped by the police yet.

Technically yes, insurance is compulsory when on the road in Kazakhstan.

That will be because of the customs union. The Russians didnt take my temporary import when I left Russia, but neither did the Kazakh's when I left Kazakhstan hence I still have a Russian temporary import document! All the times I have been stopped in Kazakhstan (lots) they have never asked for the temporary import.

They have always asked for the insurance. I have seen Nomad offices everywhere simple matter to stop and get. My Russian insurance covers Russia, not good enough I was told.

Yet, it will happen. 1000 - 1500 is going price for a bribe.

Which brings me to this I was caught speeding yesterday, through a GAI (ГАИ) post, as he was writing out the ticket he said it would be 1000t so I paid it. Then as he gave my licence and stopped writing I realized I had just paid a bribe not a ticket. Oh well the best intentions...

Recent experience in Kazakhstan
 

Here comes my update… I drove about 3500km (Korgas-Alamaty-Turkestan-Astana).

Re Police:
I was stopped by the police three times in total; only once due to a speed control in a village on the way to Turkestan. Till I dug my passport out of the backpack they already lost interest. Within 3 mins I was back on the road without paying a fine or bribe. The other two times (Astana, Kostanay) they stopped me out of curiosity and to take pictures with me.

Re coverage with petrol stations and road conditions:
There’s no petrol station along the 430 km stretch from Kyzylorda to Zhezkazgan and about ¼ to 1/3 of it is unpaved. Everywhere else the range of about 250 km with the original tank of my BMW Xchallenge was enough and the road conditions are OK if you are traveling on an Enduro; the many constructions sites are tedious though.

Re Registration:
There is an office at the hotel I stayed at in Almaty (Hotel Saulet, mentioned in the Lonely Planet) that can do the registration for you. It costs 5000 Tenge and you’ll get your passport back in the evening of the following day (or same day if you give it to them early in the morning).

Cheers,
Kevin