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Khorog fighting outbreak - Pamir Highway closed
This might be interesting for anyone planning to go to the pamirs. A recent outbreak of violence in the GBAO region has led to a full close down of the Pamir region around Khorog.
For anyone heading that way: Change your travel plans! Tajikistan Battle Leaves Dozens Dead - WSJ.com |
Very sad news indeed. We met so many nice people when we were there a month ago, I hope it can be resolved without further bloodshed.
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I'm leaving for Dushanbe tomorrow and should be there on Friday. I'll ask around and write here if there is anything interesting. Too many people heading that way this year. Would be a shame if we all have to cancel.
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Hi everyone,
it's really terrible and we are trying to find out totady, if the boarder between Osh/ Kirgistan and Dushanbe/ Tadschikistan is open for foreign travellers. So we can drive into Tadschikistan this way at least. It's a real shame, that the Parmir is closed and we hope they do not destroy Khorog. We heard so many nice things about that town. save travels for all Alexandra |
please report if the boarder crossing next to osh is open for tourists
so far, i read that this boarder crossing is only for locals maybe an other alternative might be the bartang valley does anybody know something about the current road condition? there were some landslides, but who knows if there might be allready cleared... |
The president declared a ceasefire today. Hopfully this leads to reopen I g of the border. Here would still be
Any tourists stuck in The GBAO woe need to leave you would think |
Hello
very sad news :( I was there on the beginning of June (Dushanbe-Kalaikum-Khorog-Ishkasim-Langaar-Murgab-Sary Tash). The border between Tajik and Kirghistan between Murgab and Sary Tash over Akt Baital Pass was open for travelers. Hope it will be over, such a beautiful place with such nice people. Ride safe, Adrian |
Good and bad news from Dushanbe. Bad stuff first - I've seen many many bikers heading back into Uzbekistan today. They have various despondent looks and have all given up on making it to the Pamirs anytime soon. One person tried to reach Khorog yesterday or the day before and was turned back by the military.
But here in the hotel things are a bit more positive. The situation in Khorog seems to be improving slightly. Phone communication is apparently back up and people, including tourists, have been allowed to leave the city. No real news on whether the road is open for tourists heading into Khorog yet. A couple people left here this morning to attempt to get there. Will hear maybe tomorrow if they managed to make it. There is also talk about taking the other 'road' through the mountains which starts about 60km north of Khorog - nobody really seems to know what the road is like but apparently several motorbikes and cyclists left to attempt it a few days ago. I'm going to stay here for the weekend and will probably head down to the British embassy on Monday to see if they have anything useful to say. I very much doubt it though. The general mood seems to be that in a week or two everything will be back to normal. Right now it is very fluid and information is still quite sketchy. There has been some concern about more fighters coming from Afghanistan through Ishkashim so will keep an eye on that. I don't think anyone should cancel their plans just yet if they were planning on being here in (say) 2 weeks time, or if they have enough flexibility in their visa dates (unlike me). |
Also, GBAO permits are being issued again in Dushanbe which can only be a good sign
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Latest news is that the Pamir Highway, Wakhan valley and Sary Tash border crossing are all completely open. Am leaving Dushanbe today to give it a go so will report back in a couple days.
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Good luck. I was just outskirts of Khorog with english friend Keith when fighting started last week. We stayed overnight in a truck terminal close to Khorog and during ceasefire which was i think tuesday or wednesday we were allowed to drive through city which has seen something like 30 hours of continuous fighting.
We met middle of city on northern shore after roadbridge UK biker with DZR400 who had earlier attempted to leave city to north but turned around in roadblock when facing big group of people. He however followed us through few improvised roadblock just turned around in last roadblock which was BTR-80. Perhaps thing was that i was aimed with machinegun by a very nervous, young soldier who also jumped back and removed safety of machine gun. For a moment i thought he is going to shoot. After leaving city there were few improvised roadblocks from stones and on last one we saw angry mob pulling Tadjiksistan families out from two cars after clearing of roadblock. Tourists in area were quite safe (beside we met bicyclists who had to dodge bullets in city during fighting). Locals werent. We later heard that some were robbed while held on ground under gunpoint. After incident in last roadblock i decited we have to get away from safe distance from Khorog as situation seemed to be tense and we rode roughly 100 km north and camped there after passing numerous roadblocks formed by goverment forces. During next night i watched at least two hour continous flashes of lights coming from direction of city and could hear distant voices of various caliber weapons. We also met several bikers and bicyclists going into direction of Khorog and adviced them of situation. There is another northern route going from Rusan to Khorog very close to Kirgistan border. It should be passable with motorcycle but i dont know. Good thing is that if situation is cleared. |
I hope all is better next year for my Trip from the UK to Thailand as this was one of the parts i was really looking forward to.
Please keep us updated as things progress Z |
See also http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...russia-63697-4
post number 47 onwards. Good luck if you try to get in. |
Bad news, I lucked out. I made it to Kalaikhum but was turned around by the army on Thursday just outside the town. The police in Kalaikhum confirmed that the road is closed again. The Sary Tash border also appears to have been closed for several days now.
Coming back to Dushanbe I made it over the first mountain pass ok (apart from some nervous soldiers at the checkpoint at the top) but met some cyclists who were stuck at the checkpoint at the north/west side of the pass. The army was not letting them through for reasons that were not being explained at the time. I got in touch with some people in Dushanbe who said that the pass is closed in the direction of Kalaikhum but not going towards Dushanbe. In Dushanbe I met back up with some Canadian backpackers who were also turned away at the same checkpoint. They reported that the southern road (through Kolyob) is also closed. Kalaikhum is inaccessible at the moment, at least for tourists. Locals appear to sometimes be allowed through. A British cyclist who made it to Kalaikhum before the roads were closed managed to make it through the checkpoint where I was turned around without any bags. Haven't heard what has happened to him yet. The Canadian couple spoke to the army who gave the impression that they are clearing out all the tourists from GBAO and are preparing to move back in. I don't have the time to hang around here any longer and try again. But right now it looks to me that the Pamirs are completely off limits for the foreseeable future unless you want to try and sneak through the mountains somehow. There are reports that the other border to Sary Tash (A372) which is normally closed to foreigners has been opened up and no special permit is required. This information has come from the Kyrgyz embassy in Dushanbe but I don't know how reliable it is. Everything is changing on a daily basis around here at the moment. |
[QUOTE=Prisoner62113;388167The Canadian couple spoke to the army who gave the impression that they are clearing out all the tourists from GBAO and are preparing to move back in.
[/QUOTE] Mmm if that is the case it very bad news indeed. Not sure why the Tajik Grovernment needs to **** it up again, for the most part things were good for the bulk of the population from what we were had read and were told by locals. It was a nice peaceful spot. |
Yeah I hope that this is just a rumour which turns out to be untrue.
The British cyclist has been turned away at Kalaikhum today and is heading back to Dushanbe. All of that does seem to confirm that the army doesn't want any western eyes or cameras in Khorog for a while. |
Received this email yesterday from a Scottish bloke on a pushbike I met on the Sary Tash/Murgab border road:
quote Scenery was too much to resist and I entered Tajikistan. Caught up with Belgians and Christine (German girl). Ended up cycling with Christine as far as 20Km's from Murghab. When ... you guessed it ... we were turned back by the army! Camped for the night in hope of more info but army jeep picked us up in morning and swept us and 3 other cyclists to the Tajik border in a jeep. Quite an adventure. Cycled back to Osh.... unnquote |
bummer
Bummer, I am sitting in Jalalabad and I had hoped by now things would have started clearing up, but it doesn't look like it. Tajikistan was the part had been looking forward to most, but my second attempt looks like will be a faillure as well. Chris, when did they actually let you enter?
KP |
true
as far as I know it's still closed.
we went through Khorog on the 26th. No one coming from Taj, or Kirg was allowd pass Murghab. here a little vid: Khorog, Tajikistan, 26.July 2012 - YouTube cheers mex |
It travelled today from Sari Tash west and int TJ. The Kyrg border official had to call Bishkek to see if it was Ok for me cross there into TJ with my US passport, but in the end they let me go travel on. No problems at the TJ border. Tons of tourists traveling from TJ to KG on this road.
Kp |
M41 / A372 (Lab-i-Jar) and Anzob Pass
On my way back to Kyrg I tried to get a little ways south to Tavildara on the M41, but I was not allowed to go in that direction at all. At the checkpoint at the M41 / A372 (Lab-i-Jar) the only options are to go to Dushanbe or to KGZ, not adventureing to the South at all.
I tried to go to Aini by means of ghe Anzob Pass, but was blocked by the last little bit of snow on the North side of the pass. This applied to my motorcyle. Bicycles will have no problem and I suspect in a week the snow will have sufficienlty melted for motorcycles. I have given up on TJ for this year. KP |
Hi everyone,
the border was completely closed as we tried to exit Kirgistan to drive into no man´s land on the 2nd of August. That was a completely new situation as the Kirgise let you out until then. However I just got the following brand new information from the tourist info in Khorog: For those to them you have passed my message i would like to say that right now Pamir is accessable only bu plane from Dushanbe. Our government has closed all roads to the Pamirs. If anyone want to conatct them: here is the address: Alisho Sultonasainov Junior comminication officer Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Association 10, Davronov str., Central Park, Khorog Tajikistan, 736 000 tel.:+992 3522 22469 e-mail:info@pecta.tj www.pecta.tj And for those still in Kirgistan: it is worth having a look to Mount Lenin insted. Great area and there is a yurt from the CBT. Alexandra |
I'm not really 100% on the political/ historical situation that has led to the oit break of fighting as it's not hugely well covered in the media here.
I have plans to run through the region next year I'm just wondering if pamir highway is likely to be closed until then?? (however I'm pretty certain that the answer to my question is "how long is a piece of string). |
Hi
Please can you specify which border was closed? I know the sary rash one is closed but have also read the one on the a372 at karamyk is now open to tourists. Thanks Fern Quote:
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Some good news on this front is that the 'warlord' the Tajik government wanted has surrendered.
Hopefully this will begin to improve things in the Pamir. |
there seems to be a lot of people sitting it out in Dushanbe. Tried to get into the Adventurers last night but it was full, even camping.
Its only 150kms from Dushanbe to where the road forks down to Khorog. Might go and check it out tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Has anyone considered going south to Kulob and following the tiny road along the border north east? |
As we were coming from fightiings from Khorog July 25th or 26th we met at least two austrian bikers with old BMW's who were planning to take that road from Ruslan to Murghab. I got impression they have been in Pamir also before but i dont know that road condition.
Later we also met a group of italian bikers with small bikes and group was guided by a Pamir guy living in Khorog and he was driving a car. They were also going to Khorog. This pamir guy attitude towards goverment was well not so impressed and he said that if they cant go to Khorog they go to Ruslan and that road to east. I guess that road would be interesting if its drivable condition and would take you back to Murghab and Kirgisia. |
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3 days ago I could not go south on the 41 towards Khorog (see post 21). Where the road splits there is a police post and I could not even go a km south. 4 days ago I ran into some german bicyclist who tried the Kulob route and they were stopped a few km past the point where the road joins the border. FWIW, KP |
Still in Dushanbe today. Spoken to two cyclists who have both been to the GBAO office. They will restart issuing permits as of Tuesday and have said to the cyclists they can then head to the pamir highway.
We will see. There is also a typhoid outbreak in khorog now. |
Also in Yesterday's news the Amry have handed the manning of checkpoints back to the Police.
All government forces' checkpoints removed in the Tajik city of Khorog Trend.az All six government forces' checkpoints were removed from the town of Khorog (the administrative centre of Gorno-Badakhshan autonomous Tajikistan) today and replaced by traffic police, a representative of the Tajik security service told ITAR-TASS. "One ... All government forces’ checkpoints removed in the Tajik city of Khorog - Trend.Az |
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Hi Fern, This is Channey here. I am in Bishkek at present. Went to Tajitkistan embassy this morning, and got my visa in about one hour. I was unable to get GBAO permit, and the lady there could not tell me if and when will it be available. So Pamir Highway is still off limit at presnt. I will try again in Osh in a couple of day - if there is an Tajikistan embassy there. |
Hi Channey,
still no huge progress, the GBAO is taking payment but not issuing stamp, but a tour company rang and was told that it is opening today. Some people left the adventurers inn today and will try and send a message if they get to Khorog, but also heard from somewhere else that there are still shootings taking place, so personally not holding out much hope. I will leave tomorrow and see if they let us down there, if not head on the A372 to Kyg. |
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I am at the moment in Samarkand and wonder if I go to Tadjikistan or straight to Kirgistan. If A372 is open for foreigners, then I do not need to pass through Uzbekistan anymore? (have only single entry visa to Uzbekistan). |
The border from samarkand to panjakent is closed to foreigners so you have to go all the way down to denov to get to Dushanbe or go north
Heading east out of dushanbe, the a372 is now open for tourists creating short cut through to kyg. People who have been trying to carry on down the M41 have been turned away. I am staying at the adventurers inn in dushanbe and are leaving for the A372 tomorrow, will try and get into the pamir but not likely. You can camp in the yard at the adventurers for $6 as the place is full of waiting cyclists. Take care Fern |
It looks Pamir will remain closed for longer period. There is huge meeting in Khorog now, few thousands people on the streets - the local leader was killed yesterday.
It looks riots can start anytime. So, be patient or give up this year... |
To go back to KG, I really wanna try A372. Yet i'm not a cyclist. Are there any public transport along the way from Dushanbe to Sary Tash? or to hire a car? how about after crossing th TJ border and coming into KG?
Yesterday I asked the OVIR at Dushanbe and they said no permit issued at this moment. Optimistically, they might issue again from next monday. but no one knows? |
A local leader was assassinated yesterday, 3000 protesters, army shooting to try and calm crowd. :-(
Cyclists here I. Dushanbe were given their gbao permits today but had to sign disclaimers and told not to stop in Khorog |
Yet the road to Khorog still stopped?
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Road to khorog
My latest info from my lad who is there is that as at today the road from dunshanbe to khorog is closed.
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Update Please
This information would have been extremely useful for anyone travelling at the time.
I will be in Tajikistan (entering from Afghanistan to Khorog) in 1 month. Please, does anyone have any new information? Many thanks in advance |
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