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Getting out quick HOW?
I dunno I think I've had a few low days or something infact many low days lately exacerbated by the absence of sleep , the constant fear of breakdown and unable to fix due to stolen tools is eating at me also.
My question is I am in the Irkusk area and tbh have been having thoughts on ending the trip early. (46 days isn't too bad and I got a helluva long way). Its 6000km to Moscow and 3700km to Manchester from Moscow this is a 20 day ride at the very least Its a 800km ride to UlaanBataar 1-2 days at least , UB = bike abandonment opportunities cross to Beijing for a flight home. Its a 3200km ride to Vladivostok gravel road ie 10 days riding maybe more a 36 hour ferry to S Korea then a 2 day customs and shipping wait. Question is how on earth do I get out and home quicker than the above solutions since I'm not sure as to if I have the will to complete this trip and I'm starting to think it was a massive mistake in the first place , spending 400% of my planned budget,I'm sick all the time , lack of tools , constant fear , I've lost over 35lb in weight |
yikes, sounds like you've hit the wall. you talk about abandoning your bike in Ulan Bator--if you're willing to abandon the bike, why not just leave it in Irkutsk and fly to Moscow and then home?
My bike is here on temporary import, and I have left Russia without it and come back with no problem. On the other hand, maybe take a few days to relax, head to Listvyanka on Baikal get a room for a couple days and see how you feel, maybe you will recharge your batteries. |
Finding it impossible to relax in russia ,expensive hotel (which are surprisingly noisy) / hostel / bikeclub even camping have resulted in disturbed sleep and I don't think I've slept properly since Georgia. And tbh I feel like a zombie and had to leave early for fear of stabbing somebody to death for keeping me awake for the past 4 days and him thinking its terribly funny.
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Because you aren't supposed to leave without the bike or so I thought? ....
Damned thing is on my import document and Sochi wouldn't let me leave when I nearly took a ferry back to trazbon , I'm pretty sure I could get to Moscow then a customs officer would say hold on where is your bike, and leave me trapped in Moscow (perhaps an even worse situation than now). |
What kind of visa do you have? I rode my bike to Moscow in early may on a business visa and received a temp import certificate for my bike. A few weeks later (with the bike in Moscow) I flew to Germany and back for a business trip, no questions asked.
If you have one of those auto-tourist visas it might be different, especially if it is single-entry, dunno. and i don't understand your problems with sleeping arrangements, maybe youve had a few bad neighbors, just move somewhere else. I don't know Irkustk very well but am pretty sure there is a hostel there and also pretty sure there are rooms to let in Listvyanka on baikal, which seems like a pretty sleepy place. |
Nikita's Homestead on Olkhon Island is a pretty relaxing place.
The roads on the island were not paved in 2003, but it isn't a really bad ride. There was only one ferry to the island making round trips, so you may end up waiting an hour or so for the ferry. Lake Baikal. Island Olkhon. Nikita Bencharov's homestead You could put the bike on the train to Moscow or Vlad. This, however, can take time and may be a bit stressful. It is possible with patience. |
Sorry if i'm missing something, (not knowing the area where you are) is it not possible to buy/replace your tools as not having them seems to be adding to your anx.
Have you tried the community pages for help ? If you motorcycle is running ok what about making a dash for somewhere you would enjoy more. Not much help really but meant with the best intention. Looks like it's dig deep time, hope it works out. Pete |
Number 1 Ken, the best cheap hostel in Irkhutsk is the Admiral - yes, it's 4 to a room but only 500 roubles. It's located directly across the Angara from the train station and pretty comfortable. Secure parking is availbel within 400 metres.
Sorry to hear you are having such a hard time. Best to relax for a few days before heading further East - Chita to Khabarovsk is exhausting. At least you should get a good night's sleep after all that manhandling the bike on the dirt :) but you will have to camp as there ain't any hotels. Garry from Oz. |
keep your chin up!
In Irkutsk there is some really cheap places to stay, and your able to lock up bike up around the back to a fence (I had done so last year)
Also there is a motorbike shop and mechanic that can help you out, if not there is a motorbike club, they are expensive to stay with but I think they would be much better to get your bike fixed at. Ill try and find both places on Google maps for you. motorbike shop link motorbike shop +irkutsk - Google Maps Car market 52.292998, 104.311248 - Google Maps Motorbike club is about here (sorry I have forgotten the address) 52.299786, 104.310980 - Google Maps There is also a market just for cars and motorbikes which has every tool/ item to do with them.... If you want to get out of Russia and fast, Mongolia is the best way, the road is great and you will get to the boarder in a day and a half. In Ulan Bator there are motorbike shops, mechanics (stuff is limited and bad quality) You can stay in the motorbike friendly place which coast a fortune or you can stay at other guesthouses which have secure bike parking. You may have hit a wall, but don't give up... this is what its all about and it pushes you to the limits, when you get through this little down, you will wonder what it was all about. Everyone hits this wall, I hope you do get through it and im sure you will find many Russians willing to help you out. Best of Luck oh and to try and sell your bike, it takes about 8 days (in Moscow) to get it all sorted if you have someone who can speak Russian. |
Hi Kennichi,
I know the feelings you are having. Trust me, trips like yours have to have these emotions as well as the good ones. I have had several stops over the past 12 months where I wondered what I was doing and felt like going home. Came very close sometimes too. Other people have suggested finding a nicer hotel and relaxing for a bit but sometimes that isn't enough especially if you are missing home. There are many options for you, including a flight home to be with friends and family and then coming back out later or just pushing through the trouble. Just remember that the feelings are normal, we all have them, and that they will pass eventually. Try not to be too rash in your decisions though, you don't want to do something you regret for the sake of a couple of days. Good luck n ride safe, Ol |
Kennichi, .. sometimes the road seems endless and the bad days are followed by even worse days. We've all been there and the more options that enter your mind the more confusing things become. Maybe it's time to STOP and take stock of everything. Phone home, talk to family ... they'll encourage you. You've done the difficult part, East of Irkutsk Russia changes, the people open up, the dangers seem to diminish and Russia gets into your heart.
Chris in Tokyo mentioned Ol Khon on Lake Baikal (Roads still not paved but quite easy) .... It's quite possibly the most beautiful and tranquil place that I've ever visited on a bike and it's the kind of place that changes peoples lives. Camping on the island is Free (and Peaceful), food is cheap. Nikita's Homestead is a haven for Overlanders, a perfect place to meet others, to Chiil, to recharge and decide on the future direction. Maybe the best result would be to find a fellow traveller (4 Wheels or 2), and travel together for a few days. Share the burden, regain the smile. Whatever you decide, everybody is behind you all of the way .... things will improve and a lack of tools is just an opportunity to meet new people. All the best .... Geoff |
The homestead place sounds good. I get that brick wall feeling, usually after the initial high of riding instead of working wears off. It's a mixture of frustration that the locals are insane, theiving, noisy, beauracratic bar stewards intent on ripping you off and good old fashioned home sickness. The theft will make it worse.
My solution is expensive. Book into a hotel where western business people hang out and the locals call you sir for a couple of nights. Have few beers and get a good nights sleep. Use the day to replace your kit. With new gear, some expensive beer inside you and an earful of whatever commercial scratting about the business boys are doing, getting back on the road is like a new start. Having other overlanders to talk to and an island where you've no bike parking worries has to be better than drinking over priced Budweiser and listening to sales guff, so I think it sounds good. Manchester, this morning BTW is under cloud with the temperature pushing the 30's. It's not the place to be for a peaceful life. I say stick with it and stay the right (Yorkshire) side of those hills (even if you are way over)! Andy |
I think I understand what you are talking about very well.
Me&my girlfriend spent about 7 weeks in India on a bike 1,5 years ago. We were actually going from Europe to Australia, and spent a total 6 months on the road, India was one part of the journey. India was probably the only country, where I sometimes felt like I really want to get the hell out of, right away. Dont get me wrong, I also liked it a lot, and it was a huge experience. I certainly do not regret going there. But it was also very, very consuming, hot, dirty, noisy, smelly and sometimes corrupted. Lots of problems with both of our stomachs, too. And boy what a traffic! I think traffic (on top of the others that I mentioned) was the thing that really did it for me, as I was the one who was riding, and had to take care of my pillions safety as well. The risk of being killed or injured on those roads was very real. And I knew most of this, because I´d been there before. Still all that became very exhausting. The idea to travel on a low budget didnt help, because we usually spent the nights in some real ratholes, that were too hot and noisy to sleep well. We considered leaving the bike somewhere for a couple of weeks, and spending Christmas back home, then return to do the rest of India. In the end we didnt do that, but I must admit, it was a tempting idea for both of us at the time. There are lots of good memories from India, but I also remember how we really hated being there sometimes, it is a tough country to travel by road. I think the flights home weren´t too expensive, either. I think that´s what I´d consider first, before abandoning the trip altogether. Go somewhere quiet to just relax and sleep well for a few days, and if that doesnt help, then get flights home and back. |
I've actually made a dash to Ulan Baatar which is ok ,took me 2.5 days book took 3 hours on the border going back and forth to get the bike in. Entry to UB city is depressing feels like a mini baku from what people have described.
I camped in the steppe got rained on , anybody around UB for a few beers or something? (I am holed up in a hostel near the golden gobi which is very very grim but faced with a $90 hotel or a $6 hostel its got to be the hostel). I replaced my tools after spending 8 hours at the car supermarket Colebatch talked about on his blog , I am now armed with some 50cm tyre levers some patches and an even bigger pump. Tyre levers are Shineya instrument montage btw. But in doing so lost a couple of books to theft, feels like I can never win everything seems to get pilfered (hard boxes next time). Still not feeling great I very very nearly booked a flight out to Beijing to get home I have effectively deleted my blog where snide and nasty comments were coming in which were making me feel worse. But least they have Skype here so I can speak to the GF friends and family which is perking up my morale a bit. The bike has developed a mystery problem , 2 days ago I turned the key it woudnt stop, I hit the kill switch it wouldn't stop, so I stalled it. For the next day it would be hard to start as if the battery was flat even after 100s of km of riding to charge the battery up , but then letting it rest in Mongolia for a day it seems fine again. So yeah again anybody in UB up for a night out and about? Thank you everybody for the advice. Kind regards |
Goon on ya
Hey Kennichi,
Good on ya man. Just read this post and wanted to congratulate you on continuing the journey. I know exactly what you're saying, I had a moment or two like that in Nepal - now in India - but as you know you just have to keep on pushing because I'm repeatedly told it's all worth it in the end. And I'm sure it is. As for the snipping on the website that's a real shame that people without the balls to do what your doing have made you take it down, but I understand, that shit sure does get to you. Keep marching mate, we'll all get there someday. Nathan and Dot. |
Hi Everybody
feeling a lot better , but the stomach bugs haven't gone away and the bike has developed a electrical fault which I cannot diagnose! , thank you for your comments and help guys it was muchly appreciated. |
Hello Kennichi,
Good luck, you're only gonna be a better man after all this, hard knocks and falls do make us stronger. Your story is very impressive, your balls are bigger than mine. I can only learn from what you're doing, I'd love to venture that far on my own. Prehaps one day, I'll become a jedi knight and feel the calling. ta-all-the-way. May the Force be with you ! |
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good to read that you are feeling better. In your first post you looked like in were really low. I really felt for you! I hope I will be able to follow in your steps in 18 months time. Shame you took down your blog. Not many blogs of people doing your route (North Asia). I hope to meet you and pick up your brain if you come back to the UK before our departure! Best of luck! |
stomach
Kennichi mate, how are your stomach bugs? Still bloated, very tired, etc? If so, if complaints persist, thought crossed my mind that it might be an idea to try a course of metronidazol against giardia? 250 mg three times daily, 7 days, dont drink alcohol with it (you'll get smashingly sick if you mix it with alcohol)?
in russian you write it: МЕТРОНИДАЗОЛ just a suggestion.. keep your head up! grtz, Marjos, currently in St Pete, on my way east. (am medical by profession) |
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Kennichi, how you doing? What are the electrical symtoms? Anything someone with a lap top full of wiring diagrams might be able to help with? Andy |
Andy, nooo :D, its an antibiotic
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I know about the antibiotics I am supposed to take a kind vet told me which ones to take, but then I thought whats the point? in that if ll the food is contaminated (and it is, after the meat balls I attempted to eat about an hour ago contained pubic hairs short and curly).
Then all that will happen is that I will get it again after I am cured and again and again , causing the bacteria to become immune to the antibiotic. The Americans I camped with last night were also sick in the morning too after eating similarly contaminated food. Which meant although the advice I got is good its probably better not to take them as I'll only get sick again, I'm getting used to the horrible poos I am having and having to vomit within an hour or two of eating anyway. I have however lost a large amount of weight I'm guessing 30-40lbs which the vet is concerned about. |
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Yup went into a car shop , who attempted to sell me these 2 metre long crow bar type things, asked him if he had any smaller ones he said no.... Went to the shop opposite the big one with all the glass cases and asked , and she had some of all types the best ones they had were some 50cm ones which were badly finished that I spent an hour filing down the metal burrs on the edges but what do you expect for 110 roubles?. |
That sounds nasty.
I'd be tempted to go on something that's harder for them to make a mess of. Bottled water and bread or plain rice would be my thought but no idea what's available. Stay well hydrated. Andy |
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good thinkin' batman |
K-chi,
Just got a chance to read this thread... Sorry to hear you're hitting this phase/mood in your trip. Any traveller undertaking a similar trip encounters a this emotional bumpy stretch. Just like all of the rough patches/roads you've overcome...this will be one too... Patience and perseverance...this is not a race, its a journey. |
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In UB, I found a shop that could fabricate any rubber seal/o-ring you needed-the Komatsu-dealer sent me there!!! Stunning option...wish i had access to such fabricators in America...instead I have to buy whats available;( |
Out of Mongolia
Hey man, good on you for making it to UB. I've done the trip myself from Sochi but went into Mongolia through the Altai Republic and then across the wilderness for two weeks to UB.
One easy way to cross Russia on the way back is to ride back into Russia as far as Lake Baikal and then buy yourself a ticket and throw your bike on a train. The trains (trans-siberian) rolling back west all have cargo space on them that you can "buy/rent" ... that's the official way ... but even better, the guys who work in cargo take bribes and are the kind of guys who like to help other guys with motorcycles ... you can probably get them to help you out, or check the rates for the "official" cargo way. Either way, you can get your bike back to Moscow on the train without having to ride it ... I've ridden across Russia twice I know what a pain in the ass it can be. If you're heading back west then check out this option ... it's probably the cheapest way to get the bike back as far as Moscow or St. Pete and since it's on the train you can "check" on it at every stop. Once you're back in Moscow you can easily finsih your trip west ... you can be out of Russia in a day and then it is relatively smooth sailing as you head west. It's all about the adventure brother, some day you will laugh about all of this!!! |
Look after yourself
Hey Leon
You've achieved a lot and sounds like you're getting a lot of support here which is always good to see. you take care, unfortunately I'm still at least six weeks from UB as I'm still in the 'Stans getting angry with the highway robbers/soldiers, but Gabe should be around. It doesn't sound like Giardia to me - too much vomiting:(, but if it is giardia, it's definitely worth getting rid of it with the antibiotics, trust me, I've had it three times and the last time Baron Bolton had to share the room with me - not funny for him. Also riding a bike with the cramps you get from it is hell. doesn't Diego here on HU have a contact in UB?? I'm sure you can flog your bike there somehow if that's what you're thinking. If not I know someone flying in later next month who sooooooooo wants a bike that he will pay you for it. and can be trusted. email me- I've actually got email access for a bit and hubby, thanks for the nod on this, you know who you are.:thumbup1: |
Heh Gabe, he has been 2 days away for ages :rofl: , anyway I've got a plan in that I'm feeling I'll not stay in Monglia as long as intended but will finish the trip and go back packing for a month in China.
Thanks for the word up anyway. |
Kennichi....what bike are you riding? Would you like someone to ride it home for you? I'm supposed to be leaving for the caucasus in the next couple of days, but not feeling that excited about the region. If i could get a bike in UB and ride it home i would MORE THAN HAPPILY do that. I've done a couple of big trips and reckon i'll have a good couple months driving back.
I'm on +44 7838 480 954 if you are interested in giving me a ring in the next copuple days or am on joesheffer@hotmail.co.uk |
One more thing...
Kennichi, my Dad's flying out to UB, arriving tomorrow, and our plan is for him to rent a bike for a few days and we'll do a trip together.
Bikes are available here for rent, but they're pretty steep. If you're game, I think he'd happily rent yours, you get some quids, and he gets a bike for a bit, how's about it? As I said, I'm here in UB for a bit, and keen to meet up. There are three of us English bikers here at the moment, and all pretty tolerant of deficatory issues, give us a shout when you get back here. We've got a phone that's usually on, number is 0037259336301 |
Last time you emailed me was on the 9th , my email works ok I just tested it with 3 accounts, I'll probably call you via skype around 10am , was fairly drunken last night and just convalessing currently and have no real plans currently , even considering leaving to Russia shortly ending the trip early to Vlad and exploring China backpacker style for a month and a half or so.
I seriously over estimated the time needed for this trip and thus I'm pretty much near the end but dont want to return till Mid August which seems somewhat far off. |
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Emailed new number
If you see this first, pls check your email, there's another number we can try.
Cheers, see you tonight/tomorrow. Another thought... We've probably seen each other around town, but without super-hero outfits on (bike gear) we've just civilians to one another I guess.. |
That number doesn't work either got hung up on that number about 9 times,
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This one'll do it
Sorry, phone ran out of battery, just had enough time to make out you're from the Liverpool area.. (?)
Please try the landline at my apartment, 11318945 Cheers See you in a minute or two |
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