Baku Turkmenbashy Ferry - our experience
 

Just another thread about this ferry many travelers seem to use. Our experience with this ferry on June 13th 2012 was not so good though.

We arrived in Baku on June 10th with our 5 day Turkmenistan visa starting on June 12th. Our plan was to board the ferry on June 11th to have enough time for the 14 hour sailing and arrival in Turkmenbashy on June 12th. Well, we didn't include the Azeri customs and the port staff in our plans:

On June 11th there was a ferry going but we were told to come back the next day since you must have a valid Turkmenistan Visa to board the ferry. The Azery custom guys won't let you leave THEIR country without the Turkmen visa started - that makes sense! So either way you will lose one of your five days on the ferry.

The next day we went there again, got tickets (which is a lot of hassle itself dealing with the completely corrupt ticket personnel - the price for two bikes and two people was 360$) and boarded the ferry. After having our bikes secured and all our baggage on deck a staff member came up to us and told us to leave the ferry. Reason: There is too much cargo on the boat and the Turkmen won't let them dock that way.Too much cargo huh? There are f**king trains with rolling stock on the boat weighing 1000 times more than our two F650's. After lots of discussion and even with the help of our local contact we had no chance but to get off board. Next problem: we already had an Azeri exit stamp in our passport. Luckily customs were co-operative and overstamped the exit stamp to make it invalid so we could re-enter the country. Another day lost.

On day three we finally made it onboard to stay and left the port by 5 p.m. Luckily the crossing was largely hassle free and we were docked in Turkmenbashy the next day by 11 a.m. What followed was the insane bureaucracy of Turkmen immigration and customs. 24 forms in 10 different office were to be filled out. Time consumed with the help of a Turkmen guide we met by coincidence: 4 hours. At about 3 p.m. with less than 2,5 days left on our visa we were free to go. 1300km through the desert - not much fun.

--> We are strongly advising AGAINST using the Baku Turkmenbashy ferry when you are on a transit visa. In our case the ferry ate up almost 3 of our 5 visa days. There is the possibility of getting a visa on-arrival in Turkmenbashy with an undated LOI in hand. Meanwhile the Azeri custom guys won't let you board the ferry with that! Although you could probably argue with the help of your embassy it will be a lot of hassle. Our crossing was 17 hours and quite fast. Sometimes the ferries wait up to three days before the coast for a vacant dock. If that had happened to us, our Turkmen visa would have expired before we even had the chance to enter the country.

The alternative would be the ferry to Aqtau in Kazakhstan. Although you'd have to deal with the same ticketing staff and probably have to wait longer because it runs more irregularly it still seems a better option.

Thx for the info! Jeez! I had planned to take the ferry next year.
What do you think about a detour instead: From Turkey/Dogubayazit via Iran along the Caspian Sea to Turkmenistan? That seems to be an interesting alternative to travelling via Russia to Kazakstan. This guy Laurent on ADV Riders has a fascinating account on northern Iran here: Tour d'Afrique - and then some - ADVrider

Hans

hmmm, I had 'hopes' of going this way next year with our Land Rover but sheeesh, that does not sound fun!

I knew it would be hassle but you have just spelled it out for me :( maybe the ferry to Kaz is the way with a full visa, at least time is on your side then (if you see what I mean).

Next decision is to enter Russia via Georgia or take that ferry from Turkey!

arrrrr!

G

how it is possible to take "that ferry" from Turkey ?
:nono:

Trabzon - Sochi

I want to visit the Caucasus region but my onward journey is the Stans so just looking at all possible/viable routes.

G

Next time I would skip the ferry entirely and go through Iran even though you have to have a carnet then. Going overland instead of oversea is definitely better to plan and you could use the full 5 days of your Turkmen transit visa. This is more than enough coming from Iran to even see some things in Turkmenistan (Ashgabat etc.)

Aktau ferry
 

We went in the other direction last year and took the Aktau to Baku ferry. Believe me, it's not much of an alternative. It took us 10 days to get on a ferry, and 3 more days to cross the Caspian due to strong winds. A couple of French we met had been waiting in Aktau for 17 days. So, people planning to go this route will need time, a bit of luck and a lot of patience. Speaking Russian would definitely help too in dealing with the port personnel.

Once we were on it, the ferry itself was fine though. The crew was friendly and food was available on board (not always so, take some provisions).

You beat me to the trip report on this :clap:!
I had a similar experience with the a*holes at the port in Baku a week before you. Absolute nightmare. The worst part were the ticket personnel who deliberately refused to sell me a ticket until the last boat possible on my visa was to leave and then tried to ask me for a $200 bribe.
RE the visa - I had a dateless transit invitation. No amount of negotiation allowed me boarding / to buy a ticket.

The ferry itself was pleasant enough (nice clean cabins!), but we waited about 20 hours in port before docking, so basically lost 2 days out of 5 on the crossing. Decided to do the unwise thing and rode straight to Ashgabat after leaving the port at 6.20pm. Got there at 2am with (only) 6 police "checks" along the way.

My $.02: get your transit visa to start 2 days after your intended departure date from Baku. i.e. if you are planning on taking a boat on Friday, get your visa to start on Sunday. Worst case you arrive early and spend a night at customs before entering the country at midnight.. The desert starts pretty much immediately after leaving port so plenty of tent pitching opportunities.

A very important point for those looking to get the visa in their passports in Baku - the embassy has moved. It is now very close to the Kazakh embassy. GPS coordinates: N40.39542, E49.82637

Getting to Central Asia
 

Hans, that can be a great alternative to take, however as someone else has mentioned, Iran insists on a carnet, which can be expensive, and also depending on your nationality and the current political situation in Iran when you apply, it can be tricky getting an Iranian visa in the first place. Good luck.

I have taken both the Iran route and the Baku-Aktau ferry, (I was refused the Turkmen visa that year:innocent:) both routes have their own issues, the main one with that ferry is the possible long wait for it as there is no schedule and then the long ride through the desert from Aktau to Uzbekistan.

Mastermodix was particularly unlucky but I have heard similar stories from other people.
It's the Central Asia version of the Darien Gap.

:lol2: that is good!

So I think our options next year will be to either persevere with the Baku/Turkmenbashi ferry or take the Georgia border crossing into RUS and drive to KAZ.

Could anyone tell me the best route and how long it would take? I hear that area can be 'dodgy' so I don't really want to hang around for too long. I also don't want to be eating time into our RUS visa (saving the days for Siberia).

M29 - M4 - M21 - M6 to Astrakhan?

Any help, opinions or info appreciated.

G

Russian Rumblings
 

Griffdowg
That brings us to the road through Russia. I haven't personally taken that route as the Georgia border crossing into Russia was closed when I went through, so didn't comment on it before, the issue with going that way is the Russian visa.
I don't know what your route or itinerary is, but if you're going to Mongolia (I notice you mentioned Siberia) via the 'Stans AND you take the Russian/Kazakh route to get around the Caspian Sea then you will need to enter Russia three times, assuming you will also be driving out of Mongolia. Possibly also a double entry Kazakh visa, or just get a second visa along the way which I have done before.

The most common visa travellers get for Russia (if going to Mongolia) tends to be the three month double entry business visa, which means you can enter Russia twice.
If you're going to take this route through Russia you need a different visa, I know Colebatch tends to recommend the multi entry extended time visa so that travellers will have the extra flexibility it provides (though at a price).
Take a look at the Russian visa options to see what works for you. The time limit on the Russian visas can also mean you have to travel more quickly than you may want to.

Some people have two passports, purely because of the Russian visa requirements, leaving one passport in the UK to get the Russian visa at the last minute. Then having it couriered out to them - generally £30 to get your passport sent anywhere in the world within 48 hours.

Does that make sense? Take a look at the routes etc.

Good luck

Hi,

Yes I have looked into the RUS visa 'situation' :D and we will likely be getting a 12 month ME visa. If we take the Georgia/Russia section then a double entry KAZ will be needed.

Our route will enter/leave RUS 3-4 times on our (squiggly) route to Siberia spanning most of next year.