Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB

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-   -   2019 Siberia, Mongolia, Central Asia Family 4wd Trip (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/northern-and-central-asia/2019-siberia-mongolia-central-asia-95033)

kiwi1973 17 May 2018 23:26

2019 Siberia, Mongolia, Central Asia Family 4wd Trip
 
In just slightly under a year from now my young family will be unloading our modified Mitsubishi Shogun (aka Pajero or Montero) at the port of Vladivostok, on Russia's east coast, to embark on an overland journey across Siberia, Mongolia and Central Asia, Georgia, Turkey and all the way into Europe. We are not entirely new to overland travel, although this will be our biggest undertaking to date, and takes us slightly further out from our comfort zone in some respects. We've previously commenced overland travel from London, England, where I worked for 10 years and where two of my three children were born. Past trips (using the same vehicle) have included extensive on and off-road travels of Europe, Morocco and the Balkan countries. Presently we're living in my original home country of New Zealand and so this upcoming trip will involve shipping the Shogun (Pajero) from NZ to Russia.

A rough initial plan of our route (as far as Turkey) is shown here:

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-27DiMvPpF...cut%2Bplan.png

And here's our family expedition machine:

https://www.expeditionportal.com/for...08-jpg.449249/

It's a fairly extensively modified 4th generation Mitsubishi Shogun/Pajero. These were known as Montero's in the USA, although the 4th generation versions were not sold in the USA (although have been very popular vehicles in many other countries around the globe and are still in production). It's had too much done to it to detail here, though the photo probably gives a fair indication of its build. It has an excellent factory traction control system, now complemented with a Harrop Eaton front E-locker among many other preparations. If anyone is interested in learning about the vehicle build and/or our previous overland adventures in it then see here: https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=43395

The purpose of this post, my first ever on Horizons Unlimited, is just to introduce myself and my family's plans for a big overland trip next year. We'd love to hear from, and share ideas with, others currently making plans to undertake travel into the places we are heading next year. I'd also love to hear from others who are familiar with our planned route and have any tips/experience to share?

Right now I'm working on planning the stage from Vladivostok to Magadan - the 'Road of Bones'. One complication we have is that because we wish to commence this trip in May 2019 it will still be pretty cold that far north in Siberia. So I'm researching opportunities to find accommodation in towns/villages along the route (and also planning to build a portable diesel heater in case we get caught out and have to camp in the tent). I'm also currently focusing on availability and quality of diesel for this part of the route.

Has anyone here shipped a 4wd between Vladivostok and Magadan (either direction) and if so at what cost?

eurasiaoverland 20 May 2018 09:09

Hi, welcome to the HUBB :)

I've driven Vladivostok - Magadan in September / October (and back to Yakutsk in January / February). Locals prefer to ship their cars, when the sea is ice-free, but you need to fly separately from the car. Unless you speak Russian you'll probably need help from someone to do this. My guess would be that it costs around $250 for the car. Flights in the East of Russia are not that cheap.

One thing to note: in May the Yakutsk - Magadan route may not work. There is no bridge over the Aldan River so between the ice road closing in mid April and the river being open to ferry navigation (which I think starts in mid May to early June depending on the winter) there is no way through.

You can find hotels for sure in Susuman, Ust Nera and Khandyga, and probably a few places in between. Not sure about diesel quality as I drive a petrol, but from Magadan to Ust Nera it's all from the Magadan supplier (which I found to be good quality). From Kyubeme to Yakutsk it comes from Yakutia which I found to be of variable quality, though the state supplier Yakutneftegaz had excellent quality petrol. Locals aren't that keen on diesels because of the extreme winters.

Let me know if you have any other questions on Russia / Mongolia / Central Asia.

EO

kiwi1973 22 May 2018 23:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by eurasiaoverland (Post 584383)
Hi, welcome to the HUBB :)

I've driven Vladivostok - Magadan in September / October (and back to Yakutsk in January / February). Locals prefer to ship their cars, when the sea is ice-free, but you need to fly separately from the car. Unless you speak Russian you'll probably need help from someone to do this. My guess would be that it costs around $250 for the car. Flights in the East of Russia are not that cheap.

One thing to note: in May the Yakutsk - Magadan route may not work. There is no bridge over the Aldan River so between the ice road closing in mid April and the river being open to ferry navigation (which I think starts in mid May to early June depending on the winter) there is no way through.

You can find hotels for sure in Susuman, Ust Nera and Khandyga, and probably a few places in between. Not sure about diesel quality as I drive a petrol, but from Magadan to Ust Nera it's all from the Magadan supplier (which I found to be good quality). From Kyubeme to Yakutsk it comes from Yakutia which I found to be of variable quality, though the state supplier Yakutneftegaz had excellent quality petrol. Locals aren't that keen on diesels because of the extreme winters.

Let me know if you have any other questions on Russia / Mongolia / Central Asia.

EO

Thanks for this! This is very helpful. I have some further questions relating to the Magadan route at this stage.

My research had by now identified that our original plan to travel to, or from, Magadan via the Kolyma Highway in May wasn't really workable. Seems we would either have to wait for the boat/barge to resume operating on the Aldan river in June, or alternatively make this a winter trip, which I see you have experience of. Looks like it would be possible to do a winter trip as late as 2nd half of March, and we should benefit from slightly less cold conditions (-30 to -35?). Is it in some respects an easier drive in winter? (i.e. no worries about river crossings or muddy roads). But, on the other hand a car breakdown out there could prove fatal in those temps, as we travel solo in just one vehicle. When you made your winter trip did you go with just one vehicle or more? How much (frequency of) traffic can be expected on this route in the winter and how would you view the risks to taking a solo vehicle over this route in winter?

Alternatively, if we wait until the boat/barge resumes operation on the Aldan river in June what are the pitfalls of going at that time? I believe it may be a very wet time given spring rains, snow melt and the permafrost nature of the Kolyma Highway encouraging flooding? I'm not worried about mud, but are we likely to have to contend with any deep water crossings for which there is no boat/barge - more than what a 4wd can safely cope with?

Any rough idea on what a family (3 young children) should budget for accommodation each night along this route?

eurasiaoverland 27 May 2018 12:53

Hi Kiwi

These days, in summer, the highway between Yakutsk (or rather Nizhny Bestyakh, on the right bank of the Lena) is not the great adventure that is once must have been. The highway is well levelled, widened and graded with good bridges; it's about as good as an unpaved highway can be. There are fairly regular fuel stations and a bit of traffic. There are no water crossings.

March would be perhaps the best time in the whole year to make the trip; you will see the road in winter, when I would say it is at it's most beautiful and will add an extra dimension to your trans-Russia trip. I think the temperature would be around -25 which should pose no problem for a well-maintained Japanese car, though make sure your battery, radiator hoses and engine belts are in good condition. You should bring warm clothes; the temperature is not so low (-25 when sunny and still is lovely), but if there is wind you can still easily get frostnip. There is plenty of traffic on the highway between Yakutsk and Ust-Nera and between Susuman and Magadan. Between Ust-Nera and Susuman there is less traffic, but it's by no means deserted. Driving in the warmer winter months (e.g. November, March) is safer than in summer as there is no dust; a contributing factor to many accidents.

I think RUB 1000 to 1500 per head is a rough price for accommodation in basic hotels there, though I have no idea whether they would charge the kids.

The one piece of kit which I valued most on my winter trip (after the car) was my Eberspacher cabin heater; I found that below -10 it helped keep the interior nice and warm (and the windows ice-free), and below -40 it stopped the interior getting too cold. A second windscreen stuck onto the windscreen meant I never had to de-ice or blow hot air onto the windscreen to keep it clear.

EO


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