Sudan to Egypt via Argeen (west of Nile)
 

3 months ago I drove on a new road from Dongola (Northern Sudan) to Abu Simbel, on the west side of the Nile. Perfect asfalt, for 501 km. All through the Saharian desert, with no gas stations nor other facilities. This road wasn't in the maps, GPS, maps.me, ...., in February 2017. Even the police, in a "station" 1 kilometer from the intersection to the road, knew it. Once you are in Dongola, don't cross the Nile. Head north in the same road that took you there.

There is a new border between Sudan and Egypt in Argeen (Arjeen?). 361 km from Dongola and 140 from Abu Simbel.

We got fuel at the border, with the nice guy that runs the cafeteria. He also bought us lunch. It's a 24X7 boarder, although the Egypcian side isn't open all the time, at least for those coming from Sudan. We were told it usually opens around 14:00, about the time they let us in. It took us 3 hours to get out of Sudan and 4 hours to get in Egypt. In the sudanese drama the officials did everything for us, while we had lunch, got fuel, changed money, slept, and so on. In Egypt it's just very burocratic. Their english is not the best and there are many, many, many forms and procedures that need/should be performed. But it's all about being patient.

I hope I've covered everything important in this subject. It's much easier riding this road than having to go to Wadi Halfa and crossing the Lake Nasser, in any point.

Sudan to Egypt (and vice-versa) - No more Lake Nasser crossing
 

Hi,
Do you reckon this is a legal border for tourists, or they just let you through anyway?

Did you use a carnet for Egypt?

How much did you pay to get into Egypt?

Where did you get your licence plates? At the border or in Aswan?

Tx!

You still need a fixer to do the crossing. Mazar in Wadi Halfa is to be highly recommended for the Sudanese side and he will give you the contact details of a fixer on the Egyptian side. The fixers (and border officials) have to come all the way out to the border crossing from Wadi Halfa and Aswan. You just can't rock up and hope you will get over unaided. The fixer on the Egyptian side will get the licence plates for you. Take loads of cash for all the costs involved. You will have to have a carnet for Egypt.

It is an official border crossing for tourists as well.

Safari njema!

Sudan to Egypt (and vice-versa) - No more Lake Nasser crossing
 

Thanks Wazungu, but I think you are referring to the Wadi Halfa crossing on the eastern side of the Nile.
The OP was talking about a crossing on the western side of the Nile.

We've done the western crossing now (Argeen) and can update as below.
The road shows on OSM, but not on T4A and typing Argeen produces no results on any maps.

As I only remembered about this post once we had already left Dongola, we took a slightly convoluted route, crossed the Nile from west to east up to Kerma and looked at the Western Defuffa and the very nice, small, informative museum.

From there we were continuing up to the Wadi Halfa border. We passed Delgo and stopped for diesel shortly afterwards. I remembered reading there was a ferry from Delgo to the other side of the Nile, and had wanted to go to the temple of Soleb on the western banks, but we'd decided it was too much effort to go up there and backtrack all the way down to Dongola and up again to Wadi Halfa. So this looked like our opportunity.

Didn't wait too long for the ferry (the crew were eating a late lunch) and we crossed the Nile from east to west in 5 minutes, cost 40 Sudanese pounds.

From there it was about 1.5 hours north to Soleb where we arrived just as the sun was starting to set. It's a really pretty ruined temple and at that time of day just picture perfect.
We were greeted by Hamid, the owner of the guesthouse right behind us, who insisted we camp in his yard. The washing water was a bit brown for our taste, but the squat loos beautifully clean. Ate dinner with them and tried to converse without a common language, which was actually very interesting, especially when he got his old passports, visas and photos out for where he had worked in the past, it seemed like on archaeological digs.

There is a fuel station in the village where the ferry docks, opposite Delgo, but can't say whether they always have fuel.

From Soleb it's 2.5 hours to the border. We arrived at 10.30am.
To be told there was a power cut, which wouldn't be working until 2pm at the earliest! They have a generator, but no fuel for it. Uff. (I wondered whether to offer to siphon off some of our diesel for them?!)

At 2.10pm we were indeed back in business and it took 2.5 hours to exit Sudan.
We had to pay 100 Sudanese pounds for a fixer we didn't want, at a price we didn't want to pay, but there is actually no way round him. And then they even forgot to stamp the carnet! (And we only noticed on the Egyptian side).

We changed our Sudanese pounds for Egyptian pounds and US dollars on the Sudanese side, for a good black market rate. There are no ATMS. On the Egyptian side there is a bank but it was closed, so can't say if you can change there (and you would really want the official rate for Sudanese pounds anyway)

We thought at this point we would be sleeping on the border, if they operate like at Wadi Halfa, but we quickly discovered they are open 24 hours!

The whole process took 4.5 hours. The Egyptians were incredibly friendly, more so than the Sudanese, even though not many spoke any English. While everything was time-consuming, we didn't have the feeling we were being ripped off (maybe only on the fixer fees).

No need to worry about pre-arranging a fixer for the Egyptian side, you're actually assigned one when you arrive! Unless you speak Arabic, you won't get through without one, just add in the cost to your budget.
Our fixer spoke pretty good English and took us wherever we needed to be in person and the rest of the time we sat in the cafe and waited for him to get everything done.

Costs at Argeen border as follows.
They seem to be very slightly higher than the Wadi Halfa ones listed here in April 2017: https://www.rinushartsuijker.com/sin...South-to-North

Sudan side, EXIT (Sudanese pounds)
160 Processing fees (80pp)
200 government fee
200 customs fee
100 fixer for carnet stamp
= 660 SDP (ca. 31 USD at our black market rate of 21.4)

Egyptian side, ENTRY (Egyptian pounds)
200 Entry fees (60pp and 80 for the car)
60 Health Check - hold a thermometer next to your forehead (30pp)
522 carnet stamp
180 insurance
130 car safety check
110 plates and photocopies
150 fixer fees
= 1352 EGP (ca. 67,52 USD)

As we've never done the Wadi Halfa crossing, we can't make a comparison of the 2 borders, but Argeen might be slightly less hassle than Wadi Halfa, on account of not needing to take a ferry.
Without the power cut, everything would have been really smooth, if long.
And we got to see the Soleb temple, which was very nice.

The border post is pretty large and it looks like they might be gearing up to make this an important crossing in the future.
For now it's only private cars (didn't actually see any) and Cairo-Khartoum buses going through. Trucks still use the ferry from Abu Simbel in order to drop off their products at the Wadi Halfa market.

Thanks wicky for a good report.

Thanks for the report; here's a map to help visualise the two crossings.

https://sahara-overland.com/routes

https://saharaoverland.files.wordpre...rder.jpg?w=400

Cool, thanks!

Do I take it there is no more paid military escort from Abu Sim to Aswan?

Correct! No escorts anywhere on them main routes from abu simbel up to Alexandria (along the Nile then the desert road from Luxor to Cairo and Cairo to Alexandria.
Plenty of police checkpoints though.

Carnet de passage (Egypt -> Sudan)
 

I have an Egyptian-licensed car, and was told in Automobile Club in CAiro that I need a “Carnet de Passage” (called Tryptique now in Egypt) to cross to Sudan. It cost around US$150 (plus a bigger deposit) there. Is it recognized (useful) by Sudan? In the past I had the experience (in Syria) having bought this but not being recognized and having to buy again on the border.
Or is it better I wait and buy it at the border? Is it cheaper there?
Thanks,
Michel

Latest Report 29 March to 2 April. Issues with Carnet extended in Kenya?
 

Heads up for anyone using this new crossing.

Goannatracks.com reports not being allow to cross with there vehicle with out visiting Cairo first? ( They had to leave there vehicle at the border! )

They do not mention if they used a fixer, or if one was even available.

Issue with Carnet extended in Kenya?

Read the full report at;

Part 70 Egypt - Entry Issues & a 52 hour Bus Ride to Cairo and Back

Thanks to Kym and Lyn for the great reports and continued safe travels,

A quick read looks like it was indeed the veracity of their extended CdP which needed to be verified up in Cairo, not that this border is closed in general to overlanders.

BY BICYCLE: Dongola (Sudan) - Aswan (Egypt) via Argeen
 

Hi guys! I'm so happy to have found someone who's done Dongola - Aswan, using the road west of Lake Nasser, crossing the boarder at Argeen. I want to do this on my bicycle! I'm a 32 year old Norwegian girl that's currently cycling solo from South Africa to Norway. Question;

- along this route, what is the situation like with regards to access to food and water? As a cyclist I'm moving a lot slower and need more pit stops than you motorized adventurers. How much traffic is there on this road? In worst case scenarios I can always ask vehicles for water.

- what is this about fixers? Do I really need them as a cyclist?

- how is this road in terms of scenery? And is it just flat/level road the whole time?

- have you heard anything about cyclists not being allowed to cross at this boarder post?

- anything else that one must take into consideration doing this route on a bicycle?

Best greetings from Khartoum, Teresie

Hi Teresie,

We drove this route in late September 2017 and I'm really not sure this is the best route for a cyclist: if I recall correctly, the last chance for stocking up on water / food was on the main road outside Soleb. My husband thinks there might have been 1 more roadhouse along the way, but we can't be sure any more, sorry.
The road was VERY quiet, we saw at most a handful of vehicles, definitely not more. But a vehicle would certainly come by at some point and would hopefully stop.
It's a perfectly tarred, very smooth route with sand / arid desert either side of the road, as far as you can see. I don't remember seeing other villages you could head for. I don't remember it being an uphill journey, but can't be specific enough for someone relying on pedal power.

I haven't heard of cyclists not being allowed and we definitely wouldn't have managed the exit without a fixer, but that may have been more due to network problems that day than anything else. Entry to Egypt would have been difficult to impossible without a fixer (not like e.g. Iran where you definitely don't need one), but to be honest, we were happy to pay for our second last border crossing for the minimal hassle, so maybe it is possible, especially as you don't need number plates. Costs are detailed in one of our previous posts if you search our user name.

All the best
Helen

PS, if you happen to be at the german guesthouse, hello to Norbert from Jens and Helen, tx!

Hi Guys,
Just an update really - we Clive and I have just ridden our motorcycles from SA to Egypt and I'm writing this in Luxor.
We elected to cross Sudan/Egypt at Argeen but the border crossing was difficult. 3 hours to get out of Sudan and 8 to get through Egypt. We couldn't find any fuel in Dongola and arrived Argeen on fumes - but the petrol station was shut and looked properly shut. We found a man who sold us 30 litres @ 1.5$ a litre.
There doesn't seem to be any system entering Egypt - you wont be allowed through the gate until you have paid some fees and the border is open at 1600 hours and closes at 4 am. Once inside you will be allocated a person to start the process - immigration was quite quick but the Carnet de Passage and the temporary Egyptian licence took ages and then you had another process for temporary number plates. Cost was about 100$ per person and bike. We slept for a while but were told to leave at 3 am or be stuck until 1600 hours - we left and had a 3 hour drive to Abu Simbel and no petrol stations. But we made it!

Argeen border crossing on foot
 

Hello all!

Next July I will start a journey on foot from Cape Town to Cairo solo (if Covid allows it). I want to walk every meter so the Argeen border crossing is my only option. I will arrive there somewhere mid 2022. I was hoping to ask some questions, and any other advice/experience related to this is most welcome!

- As far as I know Soleb is the last resupply point available.

> Does anyone know how much options there are for resupply here? I would have to stock up on food for at least a week (for the desert section, I will drag a cart for food and water). If there are enough dried/nutrient dense foods available this would be great, otherwise I would have to send a food package here.
> Is there any other (minor) option between Soleb and the border where I can resupply on either food or water?
> Are there any options for resupply at the border? (are there any shops or similar)
> Does anyone have a gross indication on the amount of vehicles driving this road daily?

- Does anyone have more recent experience with crossing the border? Or does anyone have experience crossing this border by other means than car or bus?

- Is it still necessary to arrange a fixer? Or will a bunch cash at the border do the job aswell? If so, where to find/contact such a fixer?

A lot of questions; any advice/experience would be most welcome!

Thank you and kind regards,

Frits

I have not done this route but would have thought that in Sudan anything is possible, people will be helpful and by then you will be an expert in managing your situation in pursuit of your goal.
Plus there looks to be riverside agriculture not far from the road halfway up from Soleb to the border. And so you assume there will be people and all their basic needs.

The Egyptians (specifically the men in hats) will be another matter – less flexible in the classic African sense.
If the army say their border area is a military zone with no unescorted roadside pedestrians allowed, that will be it.
No border guard will risk letting you set off for Abu Simbel, no matter what you pay them.
Permission will need to come from much higher up the food chain. Locating who that person is and winning them over by whatever means will be the key.

Because of that, setting off in the other direction would be less complex. You can spend time in Aswan or Abu S working it out, which may include a negotiator.
And in the desert it appears the wind is with you, too.

Thank you for your quick reply Chris!

So do you expect the Sudan side to be less restrictive? Or do you mean it will be easier to 'persuade' them to allow me walking the Sudan side. Since the Sudan side is geographically spoken pretty similar; just a desolate road in the desert.

Regarding your comment on the Egyptians not allowing me to walk further once I cross the Egyptian border; I thought the obligatory security escorts etc. were not necessary anymore for a few years now. Or is the border area still heavily militarised? If so, do you think paying for a militairy escort (Argeen - Aswan) could be a viable solution to this problem?

In order to obtain some legitimacy I will approach Arabic newspapers before I reach Sudan, which may help me with the border crossings and dealing with police/militairy. In addition, I'm currently studying Arabic to extend communication possibilities aswell as earning their respect. Do you expect any such measures may help increase my chances? Or are thick pockets the only means here?

Kind regards,

Frits

Hi Frits, to be clear, I am merely speculating based on my experience travelling in this part of the world. Others may have more recent experience on the ground.

Compared to Egypt, yes.

I don't think it will even be an issue, certainly not if you were walking to Wadi Halfa. Argeen side may be different.

Yes, and all sealed now I think, so easy for a cart.

The border is not militarised in the sense of minefields and missiles pointed at Sudan, like the DMZ. It is controlled by the army (as was the whole Gilf and Sand Sea, afaik). They manage it as they please.
I suspect that the whole ridiculous barge business was a racket that dragged on for decades, when clearly an overland crossing via Argeen made sense.
I know that Aswan to Abu S became free of escorts; I'm not sure if the road on to Argeen is in the same category.

It could be. In the past people paid huge sums to use Argeen.
I would consider going there (Aswan, Abu S) beforehand and try to meet people to set things up in advance. Rocking up at the border unannounced could misfire.

Especially in the Sahara, people will be baffled by your endeavour, not admire it.
Walking is what poor or crazy people do.
'What will you westerners think of next' I remember a border guard saying in Micheal Asher's book. He had a point, so don't expect support for the 'plucky adventurer'.

Arabic would definitely help – just make sure it's the right one for Egypt.
In the end it will pivot on a finding the right fixer/negotiator in Egypt to intercede on your behalf. They will deal with the costs.

Hey Chris,

Thank you again for sharing your experiences!
From your story it does not even sound that bad, as the biggest trouble would only be on the small stretch from Argeen to the intersection with the road to Abu Simbel, only 100kms (and the crossing itself ofcourse).

I have no experience with fixers/negotiaters. Do you have any suggestions on how to get started? Do these people operate publicly or is the only way to reach them through backchannels?

I have no experience either.
If I am visiting restricted areas I just slip through quickly or hire a local guide/escort.
You might try contacting a tour agency in Abu S.
They will of course be rubbing their hands...

Start by coming across as if the road is open to walkers (it may well be), and explaining you want to hire them to meet you somewhere with a food and water.
They will then come back saying how immensely complicated and costly (or forbidden) your request is.

Weather wise, you said earlier: 'arrive mid-2022' but Sudan is exceedingly hot at this time. I would plan to leave Khartoum in early November and expect to reach the border around Xmas.

Thank you for your suggestions! I intended to visit Egypt before starting with my walk, so I might aswell visit Abu Simbel then to sort things out.
Regarding climate, you are right. I will start later to avoid the desert heat.

As for food i can only speak for Wawa (other side of the Nile directly opposite Soleb; you can probably find someone with a boat that will take you there as i found someone willing to take me to Soleb and back to Wawa) there is a truck stop with a little shop/supermarket selling basic food and drinks. At the time (2018) they didnt have bottled water there so i had to settle for cola/sprite. This was actually the case for most of these small villages. They didnt have bottled water (they did in the larger villages but often in the tiny settlements they only sold soda drinks. Almost all of these villages have however large clay jars filled with water (probably from the Nile). I never drank from those but met some other traveller that had just been drinking from the Nile without getting sick for weeks (but i wouldnt recommend doing that just to be safe).

Thank you Abbas,

If there is nothing in Soleb that will be useful! Regarding water; I will carry a filter so the jars of water will be fine.

Frits,

Soleb is a small village with no shops, you would find some fresh produce there corresponding to the time of the year, but nothing else. Bear in mind that the road from there goes far inland in the desert, away from all settlements, so you would not be able to get anything along the way. However there is much traffic along the road (trucks & buses) so there is no risk in the sense of being in the middle of nowhere should something go wrong. However it is a pretty long stretch a good 250km from Soleb to Abu Simbel, there is practically nothing in-between. Argeen is just a border post, nothing more (on GE I see a few stalls on the Sudanese side, but I doubt that much is available there).

There is one issue however. Since gold was found in the north western desert, a huge mining support town sprang up near Toshka (not to be confused with the similarly named place in Egypt) about 30 kilometres north of Soleb. It is a pretty rough place, it was the only place in Sudan where I ever felt uncomfortable (we uplifted some fuel there), and looking at my Sudanese companion, I was not alone. It is not the place to walk past all alone...