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South Algeria - areas open for travelers
Hi,
What areas are currently open for travelers in South Algeria and under what conditions? - I got some conflicting info from travel agencies in Djanet and Tam. I am particularly interested in: - Hoggar - Tassili N'Ajjer between Ihrir/Dider/Essendilene/Djanet - Tassili N'Ajjer around Jabbaren Thanks, Joris |
Welcome to the HUBB Joris.
If by 'Hoggar' you mean the Atakor region just NE of Tam (basically the track to Assekrem and back) then I have never known that to be closed. Tassili du Hoggar - great region southeast of Tam - has been closed in recent years, but now don't know. I don't believe the road from Ilizzi to Djanet (including sealed dead-end to Iherir) is closed to tourists, nor is Essendilene (short piste), but major pistes off the road may be, including a transit to Tam (as with Tassili Hoggar, reasons unclear). Tassili N'Ajjer plateau is not closed AFAIK and anyway Jabbaran can be visited in a day trip from Djanet. We recently got invites to visit Djanet area this winter. Wherever you go in the south of Algeria you will need an agency escort. Ch |
We are due to go for a trek on the plateau in two weeks, no restrictions there. To my understanding, no restrictions either on the Djanet to Illizi route and environs. From what I gather, it is still not possible to do Djanet - Tam by the road. Will be able to give more updates when we're back at the end of the month.
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no UK visas being issued
Well, according to the London consulate the whole south is closed to tourists.
'the South is too dangerous - it is our responsibility...'. I explained I was there last January (it was possibly the same woman who issued me the visa in London that time) - she didn't have an answer for that. And that I heard a Brit go a visa in September (not sure if it's true - one of yours, Andras?). She didn't have an answer for that either, but from her manner there was no negotiation so I guess it's a [new?] UK consular edict. As is widely known, Algerian consulates around the world exercise their own discretion on whether the south is safe for tourism. And it's not like they took the money and then strung it out for weeks until it gets too late (a tactic used elsewhere), or picked holes in the apps - it was 'no way' up front. I was told we could travel to the north (some sort of laissez passer was mentioned), so with cars this might be used as a dodge to try and get south. I was also informed last week by an Algerian that visa regs have changed - but was not told what has changed exactly. Don't know if this is what was meant. I dont think so. Ch |
my 2p
Algerian guides are required to submit an application to their interior ministry for approval, before issuing invitations. The application needs to include all client details, together with a comprehensive itinerary.
Once the application has been approved by the ministry (and scrawled all over in confirmation), it and the invitations can then be faxed to the relevant consulates. Regarding faxes vs originals, and indeed access to the south east; this seems to depend not only on which consulate, but also on who the guide is (some are more 'well-connected' than others). I've got people of three different nationalities (therefore consulates) joining me to the Tadrart in February, Inch'Allah, so we'll see... Barrie |
I have to admit our invite looked rather skimpy (names; DoB, ppt#) and it was an emailed pdf too, not an original (printed in colour it looked reasonably kosher). No MoI stamps/confs either, but I was told it had worked September.
I agree some agencies are better connected than others, but Essendilene have been around for years (I used them in 2000, for a side trip into Tadrart as it happens). And like I say, it wasn't like she picked holes in the apps - it was a blanket 'no' once Le Grand Sud was mentioned. As we know they stopped all visas last December for a couple of months, but that was during Libya endgame. Maybe this will pass over too. Ch |
Just picked up our visas today for the fly-in trip to the Tassili (using Essendilene), no hassles at all. One participant an Aussie, the Canberra embassy proved to be the fastest, but no issues in Europe either (no Brits in the party this time, so cannot say anything about London). Visa process was about six weeks, pretty much what we were told to expect. Will keep you all posted on how things look down there when we're back.
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Report Algeria 2012
Hi,
Coming back from a 2 weeks trip in southern east Algéria : It was not so easy the in 2007 and 2009: we have to sleep very close to control posts along the road from Taleb Larbi to Illizi. After Illizi, not the same thing (you can have bivouacs almost every where) but you have to check very pecisely your itinerary with your agency, and your agency have to do same thing with the wilaya where your route is planned: On our "prise en charge" it was written Tamedjert, Oued Aharhar, Afara and it was no possible for us this year due to an authorisation problem. We have done a wonderful 3 days trip in Tadrart, instead, plus some fine loops in erg Admer,Iherir,Dider we have never done. So I think a lot of areas are open in Tassili+Tadrart+Admer but you have to check the authorisations very strongly. We have a seen some soldiers in Tadrart and I've heard from the man in charge of tourism agencies' syndicate in Djanet that when they know that some tourists want to visit the area they decide to send army to enforce the security. Also in all the towns from El Oued to Illizi (including Illizi) we where followed by the Police or the Gendarmerie, also for our security and I have to say they were very kind with us (same thing at every checkpoint), giving us water and fruit juices. And also we have spent a lot of time (2 days lost on the whole trip) with paperwork (I think it's due to the the fact that our agency hasn't done is work properly) We have seen any tourists except a couple a group in Djanet (coming with plane). RR. |
Thanks for the report RR. In a way it sounds reassuring that they are on the case with protection, if rather restricting in that you can't roam around as we used to (at least in the wilaya of Ilizzi - maybe Tam wilaya is more flexible?).
Did you get an impression that you could have crossed to Tam from Djanet, maybe even by some of the southern routes? I am trying for UK visas again this week. Apparently the MoI permit which may have arrived at the consulate could make the difference (although no MoI permit was initially mentioned). Ch |
Hi Chris,
Yes for sure they are on the case with protection! Never feel so safe than this year. I think it's the same in Tam's Wilaya after the discussion I haved with the man in Djanet ( and also with the Illizi tourism director we have met the same day). No way for Tam-Djanet, I've also asked for it and it's because there 2 wilayas and each one is reponsible for the security on his area. I've asked to cross Admer to go to Oued Taffassasset: it's not possible, because this oued is in Tams wilaya's area! Only cross erg Admer from Djanet to Zaouatenlaz. About visa, my consulate told me that it was MFA in Algiers and not MOI who gave them his permit ( 2 monthes for the whole process! ) to give us our visas. RR. |
I thought Oued Taffassasset (including Monts G and In Afellellah) are on the Djanet side of the wilaya border according to various paper maps and Google.
I was told yesterday that a loop Djanet-Tadrart-Monts G-In Afel-up to Essendilene and back) was open, but this was in local cars. And all maps show a different border in that area so who really knows. Better to plan itineraries in one wilaya then. If it takes us 2 months to get visas then we have left it too late... Ch |
Thanks for the report Roro.
I was told from a friend in Beni Abess that the erg occidental is now closed for crossing.:( What about the erg issaouane/tifernine near Illizi ? |
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About possible ergs: only Admer (just a little crossing), Thiodaine (not sure), Mehedjibet (Ahnet). RR. |
Yes, I agree with you about Tafassasset, but may be it's because the man in Djanet ("chairman" for all agencies of Djanet, speaking French very well and very friendly) didn't want I travelled so far from Djanet (and not a question of which wilaya is in charge): As I told in my little report, when they know some tourists arrive in the area, they give the info to the army and the army send some soldiers there (that's what I've seen in Tadrart) .
About your visa, try to tell your agency to make "something" (not bribe, I think) in Algiers, I was told that what happened for me . RR. |
Visa Stuff
Going slightly OT - but the following may be of interest to readers of this thread.
I live in Manchester UK and tried to arrange a trip to Algeria (not the grand south). Through a personal contact I obtained an "Authorisation d'Hebergement" duly stamped and signed by the right people. The same contact also provided the same doc for a Japanese friend (who is, as I type, in the air en route to Algiers). Then the timeline goes like this: Wed 10/10/12 – Application mailed (next-day service) to consulate Thu 18/10/12 – I received a telephone call from the consulate visa section, stating “your visa is ready – but there was no Special Delivery envelope included for return of the passport. We need the envelope by tomorrow”. I immediately went to the Post Office and investigated – I discovered that Special Delivery is different from Recorded Delivery. Sent the correct (shiny silver-coloured) SD envelope by guaranteed next-day service to the consulate visa section. Fri 19/10/12 – SD envelope received (next-day service) by consulate. Post Office tracking system reports “Your item with reference ZX063754170GB was delivered from our SOUTH KENSINGTON Delivery Office on 19/10/12 .” So that cost me an extra £12 but on the whole I was happy - the words of the consular official were "your visa is ready" and they had over a week to deliver it to me. It never showed up. I'm about to miss my 06:30 flight tomorrow, and I can't even pay to reschedule it because I have no passport and no confidence that I will be issued with a visa before the new schedule. I visited the local post office depot this morning just to check - they say they are 100% certain that no attempt was made to deliver whilst I was out. So it looks like "they took the money and then strung it out for weeks until it gets too late" situation mentioned earlier by Chris. Not nice, beware Regards Chris |
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So it looks like "they took the money and then strung it out for weeks until it gets too late" situation mentioned earlier by Chris. Not nice, beware" This situation can't happen in a French consulate: you need to pay ONLY when your visa is stamped on your passport. But it's possible you get your visa too late (without paying). RR |
Sorry to hear it didn't work out for you Chris.
Fyi RR, in London you queue for 2 hours and pay the £80+ in advance in cash. You may get a visa. Last year 2-3 weeks, this time who knows. It seems to me that the requirement for MoI/MFA permits we heard about months ago are being implemented in the last few weeks - this was the warning from a local op I mentioned in my post 2 weeks ago. I just heard a Swede - whose app was going well - has suddenly come up against this requirement. As some of us predicted, this new govt permit requirement to secure visas is really going to slow down the process and choke tourism. At least 2 months might be needed for Algiers to respond which gets difficult if you're booking planes or ferries or time off work without some certainty. And being Algeria, it's not like the MoI/MFA are working with state Tourism or the consulates. Technically the country is not closed to tourists, but it seems to me they are making it as difficult as possible, if for no other reason than to ensure our safety in the south (as RR described) is a whole lot of bother. Ch |
Back from Djanet
Just back, a brief update on the overall situation:
Visas: It seems like the process is very much dependent on country/embassy. We used the same agency Chris mentioned, Essendilene, same pdf invitation letter, no issues. An aussie travel companion received the visa within two weeks of applying, in Budapest it took three weeks longer but no issues, and Irishman living in Malta had to drop out because the assigned Rome embassy refused to cooperate in doing the process by mail and not in person. Travel: We were supposed to make a trek on the Tamrit-Sefar-Jabbaren areas of the plateau. All was fine, I was doing our shopping at the Djanet market when our guide came back from the military with a gloomy look, saying the military have just closed off the plateau (everything was apparently fine that morning), as some undentified group have been reported crossing from Libya, and were suspected of hiding there somewhere. A quick reorganisation, and we decided to visit the Iheren/Tin Abenhar area west of Iherir which is also a major rock art area. In the end we had a superb trip, and in retrospect actually seen more than what we originally expected. However the fact remains that the area with the well known Tassili paintings remains closed indefinitely. The Tadrart is surprisingly open, supposedly because the military is controlling all possible access points (I have some lingering doubts about 'all'...). No restrictions between Djanet and Illizi, but as previously mentioned, exact itineraries must be provided to the police/military, and must be kept to. The Djanet - Tam road is firmly closed. Another operator was told that it will open 'very soon' in November, but in Djanet nobody beleives that, it is expected to remain closed to foreigners indefinitely. We flew to/from Djanet from Algiers, no issues whatsoever with arrival/departure or the flights. Have used the London office of Air Algerie for booking the domestic tickets (the only ones able to speak english over the phone), they were very nice and frendly, kept extending the ticketing deadline until all visas were issued. Have not seen any tourists on the flight other than us either way (flight is combined Tam/Djanet). One member of our party stayed on for another two weeks (planing to travel to Tam with the hopeful company after a visit to the Tadrart), will post an update when he is back. |
For what it’s worth……
…… I managed after numerous failed attempts to speak on the phone to the consular visa section, and the gist of it was “We never received your special delivery envelope for return of the passport” Then several “What date? / what name?” type questions followed by waiting whilst an unsuccessful search took place. After 5 mins the official stated that the envelope was never received, and that I’d have to collect in person (not tomorrow as the consulate is closed). She said that the visa is stamped into the passport. So should I choose to do so, I could go to London Friday and collect, then get a flight to Algiers for the remainder of my available holiday time. But I’m terrified that there will be another screw-up and that I’ll lose the second fare as well. CS – is the collection process at the consulate (16:00 – 16:30, I’m told), reliable and efficient? Are there queues and a cut-off if you don’t turn up 2 hours early? …..yes, I understand that all info is provided in good faith but absolutely without guarantee…… just trying to understand my options and make a well-informed decision. I sure wish I'd known the difference between Recorded Delivery and Special Delivery when I sent the original postal application. SD = shiny silver plastic envelope. Regards Chris |
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Glad you told me it's closed tomorrow - I was setting the alarm. If they say you have the visa stamp in your ppt then I imagine they're not making it up. Collection in the afternoons is easy - not like apps in the morning where couriers are queuing 90 mins before opening time. No queues, just walk in with your ticket and collect your ppt. Check it has the right dates and so on, before you leave. Thanks for update Andrasz. Dodgy goings on on the plateau doesn't sound so far fetched as it's so close to the border. Maybe just smugglers rather than kidnappers but I suppose the army can't get up there in jeeps. Would be nice to continue right down the back of the Tadrart towards in Ezzane one time. Ch |
Thanks for that, Chris….. on due reflection I think I’m going to stump up and go anyway, I feel pretty bad about leaving my friend there alone (Japanese woman who can’t speak any French and doesn’t even have a guidebook because there aren’t any in Japanese). Luckily an Algerian woman on the same flight decided to be her guardian angel and my friend is now staying free of charge in GA’s Algiers home.
One little point of clarification – when you say “just walk in with your ticket and collect your ppt” – is that a ticket issued by the consulate or an actual ticket to the destination? Cheers, Chris |
Ticket issued by the consulate. I hope you have one of those.
Otherwise good ID may do it. Ch |
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fyi we (Brits) got visas 4 weeks after re-applying. Presumably that is how long it takes for the MoI in Algiers to come up with approval or whatever and send it to the relevant consulate. I think it was broadly the same for the other European nationals coming with.
So I would say, allow 6 weeks from applying in UK (with an agency invite which specifies an itinerary) to getting your passport. Twice as long as last year. And, according to my post here - the plateau will be re-opened for the New Year period. Ch |
South Algeria - areas open for travelers
Is it any different with an Attestation d'Hebergement from a family rather than a licensed tour guide? I've used this before but only in the north.
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I have only used agency invites for travel in the south.
Agency invites may be different documents from family invites but amount to the same thing, although travel in the south now requires additional permits prior to visa issue, as well as the usual escorts once there. Ch PS. Recent article with interesting comments: http://translate.google.co.uk/transl...194766_109.php |
Visa procedures are set to be changed again, following some sort of ministry indaba this week, which the main agencies have been invited to attend.
If I understand correctly, they are considering making things less onerous, in the hopes of resuscitating the tourism which has been so badly affected. The Djanet-Tam road remains as closed as a closed thing can be, and advice is not to include Tam on one's intended itinerary (presumably due to Mali situation) |
South Algeria - areas open for travelers
Hi Barrie, "Advice" from who? (not to include Tam)
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Hi Budric,
Info received this morning from my contact in Illizi. He seems very well informed and is in regular contact with those who have influence in these things. |
avoiding Tam
I must say I have come to that conclusion too recently and am taking it into account on my future plans in the area.
Priffe's note about a guide he met getting done for kidnap plans (dont know if that was the main Akar Akar case), plus the (botched) suicide bombing, plus the general drugs mafia scene and blow-ins associated with north Mali mixing in. Plenty of army/police/etc there too of course, but best to reduce the risks. There's fuel in and food in In Amguel and you can get to Assekrem via the rugged back roads if you like. Ch |
The young touareg I talked to in Tam said they do still have a few tourists coming in to visit Assekrem.
In May 2009, we were all set to go with Rasta and a chap named Tahar to Kidal, having worked out the details. Or so I thought. The morning we were leaving, Rasta showed up dressed as an arab (he was touareg until then - "my father is arab and mother touareg, so I can choose!") and started talking money. Tahar refused to go with us to see the gendarmes for the renseignement - turned out his papers wasn't in order. Rasta made a phone call and with a big grin said "I am planning the ENLEVEMENT" which I thought was particularly bad humour considering the situation! So more than a little agitated I went back to the agency (Walene) and asked WHAT THE XXXX! And he found us another guide right away, who turned out to be superb (but doubling the fee...) - he was known to everyone we met between Tam and Kidal, all the way to Gao. I got a lot of references on him in Tam before we left. Everyone said the same thing - he's the best guide you can have for Kidal. There were a good number of utterly bizarre moments on that trip. And now Rasta is in jail. Wow. |
Visas
Visas just obtained from Alg consulate in London for the whole of my Feb group.
Took less than a fortnight from application (all submitted together) to collection. No original invitation required, fax only. Whom in Alg you work with matters, a lot (nor does it hurt to ensure the itinerary you provide goes nowhere near to Mali!) |
Anywhere In Amenas? ;)
BBC News - Foreigners 'abducted' by Islamist militants in Algeria I'm guessing they were after French not Brits and obviously there are a lot less tourists floating around at present. Quite a long way from Mali border though, eh? |
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Our trip last October...
Somewhat eclipsed by recent events, but the account of our October 2012 trip to the Central Tassili is now complete and online.
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