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Guide/Report on how to visit Algeria without a guide, with your own vehicle
There were a few requests for information on how to visit Algeria with your own vehicle. So this is what I did:
Basically, if you can get a travel visa, you will be able to enter Algeria with your own vehicle. I do not have time to visit the South/Sahara, so I don't know if I would be allowed to enter. I have a feeling I could drive south without problems, but I can not promise this. (EDIT: You probably can not go all the way down to Tamanrasset without a guide. But you can get fairly deep ) Edit#2 (Seems like you can visit Tamanrasset , see later posts in this thread.) ---- Getting the visa I Booked a time online in advance for the Helsinki (Finland) Algerian embassy. On the embassy website they said I need the following documents: - Passport - two application forms printed and filled (got these from the website) - Two passport pictures - travel insurance - proof of hotel (I booked one hotel for 50 days on booking.com and cancelled later, i don’t recommend doing it this way, rather just book your real accommodation and cancel if needed) - 105 Euros in Cash I showed up at the embassy. They questioned me why I wanted to go to Algeria: I responded: "I want to see what it's like, also the weather is better" It was a valid reason. The people at the embassy were friendly and professional. They took my passport, money and the papers. I got it back two weeks later with a visa laminated inside the passport. EDIT: For some countries it's harder to get a visa, so you need to check with your embassy if you need an invitation letter. I have a contact in Algeria who can help you get the invitation letter for Algeria. She owns a guest house in Algiers and you have to book a stay with her (not for your entire stay in Algeria, but for a few days/weeks when you visit Algiers (the capital)). Shes also working on building a desert oasis, so you could inquire about that as well. Please be polite and respectful if you contact her. Her email is: coachimmo xxxx hotmail.fr ----- I booked the ferry from Almeria (Spain) to Ghazaouet well in advance. The price was quite steep, around 250 for me and my bike and another 200 for a cabin. You could sleep on the floor (and most people do), but I wanted be well rested. So the price was 450, quite a bit more than what I paid for the ferry from Tunisia to Italy (100euros with a cabin). ----- Taking the ship: I was in Almeria one day before my departure, so I decided to check in early. At the office I needed the following documents: Visa inside passport Reservation number vehicle registration/owners document They printed me a ticket, that I used to board the ship the next day. Boarding was super easy. Police checked my passport and ticket and I just rode onboard the ship. I was the only motorbike onboard but I saw many cars with French and Spanish plates, even saw some British plates. --- On the Algerian side The procedures on the Algerian side took quite a bit longer (About 3 hours) than on the Spanish side. But the process itself was quite easy, many smiling police/custom officers showed me where to go. Most of them only spoke Arabic or French, but everyone was friendly and helpful. Once you leave the ship you will be directed into one of 8 lines. In the line you will be given an arrival form (its in french) that you have to fill in. I used google translate and filled in the form. At the first stop a police officer will check your: Form Passport + Visa Vehicle Documents Phone number to the accommodation This officer did not speak any English, but we managed with google translate. He actually called the Airbnb I had booked and checked that it was real. After about 10 minutes, he smiled at me stamped my passport and said "Welcome to Algeria". At this same checkpoint another officer asked me about vehicle insurance, I said that I need to buy it. The other officer told me to meet him after the baggage check, he helped me later on with the insurance. After the police check 8 lines turns into 4 lines going into a building. Once you are inside the large hangar building you need to get a TIP (temporary import) from one of the counters there. The guy at the counter spoke english. He wanted to see my vehicle registration, he walked over to my bike and checked the plate, gave me a thumbs up, did some work on the computer and finally gave me the TIP for free. Valid for 3 months. The next stop was the luggage check, I had to wait longer than others for the english speaking guy to arrive. He asked me to open the tank bag. Nothing interesting there, I had to x-ray my soft luggage, after the scan he asked me what I had at the left side of the bag, I explained that I had tools to fix the bike. That was it for the luggage check very easy. The english officer grilled me a little bit on why I was coming to Algeria, I simply told him the truth. “Why are you here”?: - Tourist, I want to see Algeria “Where will you be going”: - North coast: Tlemchen, Oran, Algiers, Constantine, Annaba and then Tunisia. “Occupation?” -Computer Engineer “What is your mission here?” -No mission, just here for tourism "How much money did you bring with you?" - 700 euros (over 1000 you have to declare) There were some other questions but I forgot. He looked me deeply in the eyes when he asked these questions and I have a feeling he would have known if I was lying. After the grilling and the baggage check I was allowed to continue. I almost rode out of the place on accident, because there was a man (not in uniform) waving me towards the exit. I was intercepted by the police officer I met earlier and he said in an annoyed tone that I need to buy the insurance before leaving. I thanked him for reminding me and we walked into a small office where you buy the insurance. I didn’t have any dinars, so I had to give the police officer 20 euros, he went and got me dinars in exchange. I probably got the worst exchange rate you can find in Algeria, the insurance cost me around 18 euros for 1 month. The insurance seller, told me to not exchange any money at the bank where the exchange rate is around 145 dinars for 1 euro. He told me that I could get around 215 on the black market. I thanked him for the tip. Once I had my insurance I was free to go! I drove towards the exit and I was allowed to leave! I was relived that the process was so easy, I played by the rules and was rewarded. I was free to explore Algeria on my own! ---- A few hundred meters after the exit I stopped at a small store and asked where I can exchange money. The man left his store unguarded and took me two blocks to the black market trader where I got the rate of 215 dinars/Euro. Bought a sim card. 60GB for 2200 dinars, tried to bargain, but they said it was a fixed price. ---- Other stuff: Military checkpoints Plenty of military checkpoints, was stopped a few times, very friendly and I always got the "Welcome to Algeria". Fuel Officially the “sans plomb” is 95 RON, but in reality it’s somewhere around 91 RON. (long story short: the corruption in Algeria goes very far and wide) It worked fine for my T7, but might cause problems in higher compression engines. The fuel is very cheap, I paid 255 dinars to fill up my 5 liters camel tank. If I calculated correctly that comes out to around 0.25 Euros/ liter. (Edit: I did get dirty fuel in Algiers (only happened once), so it might be worth using some sort of fuel filter or at the very least check the fuel before you fill up. It wasn't dirty enough to clog the engine, but it was definitely not clean) People: The Algerians are very friendly people. Lots of smiles and in the country side I got invited in for food a few times. Most Algerians warned me about the "bad people". You can see these criminals driving nice cars in the bigger cities. Food Excellent bbq you have to try it! Never got sick, maybe because of the vaccine (Ducoral) Roads: Roads are clearly 3rd world roads. Not the worst I have driven on, but you need to pay attention. Traffic is more dangerous than the west. Almost got run over by a buss. Other Local taxi app called Yassir, works great but the driver always calls you, usually doesn’t speak English, so I just gave my phone to a bystander who explained the situation to the driver. (you need a Algerian number to use this app) NOTE: Be sure to activate the bonus coupon found inside the app to get 30% off every ride. I guess that's it, feel free to ask questions if I forgot to mention something. And you should definitely visit Algeria! I am loving it. |
Thanks for a great report, FS. Lots of useful info there.
I think you are lucky in Helsinki in that they did not require an invite and itinerary from an agency. But maybe you made it clear you were staying in the north. You're mission (should you choose to accept it): See how far south you can get along one of the 3 southbound desert axis before being turned back. I get a feeling they will be (from the west): • Bechar, or maybe as far south as Adrar • Ghardaia (or In Salah) • Hassi Messaoud For a nice desert circuit possibly without restrictions, you could try: Bechar > Taghit > Kerzaz > Timimoun > El Menia (El Golea) and back north. Or even the next loop down: Reggane then east to In Salah and back north. (All tarmac in the desert). Or just enjoy your own explorations ;-) Point us to some photos if you put any online. |
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I have left Algeria for Tunisia using the El Kala - Tabarka crossing.
Easy border crossing took me about 1.5 hours. About 5km before the border you can see black market traders waving cash around, very convenient so you can get rid of your Algerian dinars that are useless outside of Algeria. On the Algerian side I was asked for a bribe of 500 dinars. I showed them a 100 dinar coin that I had at the bottom at my pocket and explained that it was all I had. They said something about going back to El Kala, but I just shrugged my shoulders pretending not to understand. After about 30 seconds of me not understanding they completely changed their tone and wanted to take a picture with my bike?! The only bribe I paid was the picture. The 2nd set of guards checked my papers and asked if I had any pictures of Algeria. I said no, because I misunderstood the question, they let me through. On the Tunisian side I met an Italian biker who had ridden Algeria for two weeks. We chatted a bit and he said the had taken the following route: El Oued, Timgad, Timimoun, Ghardaia, Beni-Isguem. So not down to the deep Sahara, for which you probably need a guide. He had used the same border to enter, so if you have a visa, it's also possible to enter Algeria from Tunisia. (Without a guide) The motorcycle insurance for Tunisia was fairly expensive (around 50 euros for 2 months) so If you can get it on your green card it's definitely worth getting in advance. I also got a TIP for free valid for 3months. I had a border guard dressed in civilian clothing open up my tank bag when I was buying insurance. I yelled "hey!" at him since I thought he was stealing my stuff, he quickly responded by unzipping his jacket revealing a military jacket. He pointed at his chest and said "COLONEL!". I walked over to him, shook his hand and thanked him for checking my luggage. He was mildly annoyed but let it go because I was so humble. :rofl: Was also pleasantly surprised by the good services on the Tunisian side. I was able to exchange money and buy a sim card right at the border. Probably the easiest 3rd world border I have crossed. ---- Other: I did get some dirty fuel once in Algeria (in Algiers) but it wasn't dirty enough to clog up my engine. The fuel was a yellow liquid with small floaters in it. I would recommend using some sort of fuel filter or at the very least check the fuel before you top up. Very much unlike the fuel in Tunisia that is of very high quality, you can find western companies like Shell everywhere. |
Thank you for the valuable information, i had left a question to you in another thread which you have covered completely on this one.
Just one clarification on the Ferry part if you can indicate which site or maritime line you had chosen to book from as you said well before your departure time. Thank you |
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Trip to the Algerian Desert.
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I’ve been to Algeria last November,
I went from North (Algiers) to the desert area Netherlands- Marseille 1200km Ferry Marseille- Algiers Algiers- Ghardaia (600km) Ghardaia - Timimoune (570 km) passing by El Meniaa Timimoune - Taghit (470km) passing by Beni Abe’s Taghit - El Bayadh (530) passing by El Benoud El Bayadh - Algiers Ferry Algiers - Marseille Marseille- Netherlands 1200km Roads In Algeria are good, except a 150 km section between El Meniaa & Timimoune… you can still ride 120km/h Safety was never an issue, but we made sure we booked hotels with parking to not have to worry about the bikes. Food was excellent and very cheap Fuel was very cheap, approx 0.25 euro / litter. Fuels stations are available and several new ones have been added (I have them mapped on gps points if interested) Checks points: have been stopped 3 times, but always for a chat, curiosity… never had to show any papers, the usual questions are: where are you heading to? Where do you come from? How fast ca the bike ride ….. There are many active motorcycle clubs in almost all region, you are most likely to meet them on the road, especially in the weekend or do connect with them before your arrival, they will advise you with the best road to take … Check my YouTube channel “ Motorcycle Touring” or @Dzmotard and you can find the video from Nov 2022. https://youtu.be/kRM-xd-5x4E |
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Algerie ferries https://www.algerieferries.com/ Corsica linea https://www.corsicalinea.com/eng/ |
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Would you be able to share a little more information about the ferry crossing from Tunisia to Italy? Thanks Ed |
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Of course. I booked my ticket online with GNV (https://www.gnv.it/en). The price for bike + cabin was 100euros, but there was a 30% sale when I booked. The day before I contacted them on what time I should be in the harbour. They said 7pm, but it was way too early. So I arrived at 7pm, went to the GNV office to get my ticket here: https://goo.gl/maps/Gqvowbc32KZweexP6 (All of the ferry offices are at this same location) I got my ticket and rode on to the correct gate (for me it was 13). Then you just follow the line. They had an extra check for me, because I had an Algerian visa in my passport. But other than that, all the standard stuff. They check your passport, your bike papers and the vin number on the bike, they check your luggage and that's pretty much it. Bringing a drone into Algeria/Tunisia is very Illegal so I do not advise doing it, however I did meet a few bikers in the harbour, one of them might have been carrying a drone inside of his jacket. So if you have something illegal it's better to keep it deep inside your bike or on your person. (I strongly suggest you do not try this, Tunisian prison is not a fun place) I was done with the procedures at around 9pm and then the waiting to get onboard the ship begun. We waited for many hours and at around 23.30 we were allowed to board the ship. I strongly recommend you bring food and something to do for this long wait. ( I had lots of food and podcasts I could listen to) On the boat the crew will tie your bikes down securely and the cabins are good and fairly modern. The process itself was very easy, but the wait was long. ----- Update regarding the invitation letter to Algeria: I have a contact who owns a guest houses in Algeria, who can help you with getting an invitation letter. Please be respectful when you ask her for help. You will have to book a stay at her place in Algiers (or at her Dessert oasis if it's ready, ask about it). You can email her at coachimmo * hotmail.fr |
Thanks very much for this, including the invitation letter contact. I'm deciding this week whether to go (it will be tight on timings for my visa), but if I do I may contact them.
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A very useful post thank you frameworkSpecialist, just one question can you enter by land from Tunisia now? I would like to complete travelling across North Africa and have ridden Egypt to Tunisia some years ago and would like to ride Tunisia to Morocco, I would be on a bicycle this time so flying into Tunis and out of somewhere in Morocco or Southern Spain.
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DZ-TN land borders are open from Nefta right up to the coast.
But you do realise Mark that DZ-MK border is closed these last 30 years? So you'll have to ferry/fly to MK via Europe. You will also need a regular tourist visa with the usual dodges - not the new VoA (see other post). |
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Yes you can cross the land border from Tunisia to Algeria with the visa you get in advance from your home countrys Algerian embassy. Algeria -> Marokko landborder is closed. |
Just been pointed to this recent vid:
https://youtu.be/jBcUp6ce4TI (not great quality; audio is a bit mushy) Young French chappy on a Him who arrives in Oran and appears to have done TSH all the way to Tam, and beyond without any impediment from checkpoints at, say In Salah, where the 'Grand Sud' rules are said to begin. Are they quietly doing away with the escort / CdH rule at the non-VoA visa app stage? Or as always, does it depend on your nationality and the cut of your jib on the day? Afaict he did the outer Hoggar loop (A8 in my old Sahara book) topped up and got east of Ideles heading for Djanet along a well formed piste, but appeared to lose his nerve and turned back citing uncertainty about fuel and what lay ahead. I know that feeling. Odd, as I am sure I have seen tarmac NE of Ideles, but only for about 100km (resumes in 200km SW of BeH, according to google maps). Anyway, the more travellers succeed in doing this the more normal it will become. |
Thank you all for some very useful information.
A couple of comments: When we obtained our visas for the last two trips to Algeria the Consulate staff were very friendly and helpful; we did need a LoI. It took two weeks to receive the visas. On arriving in Algiers on the second of these trips we had had to change plans and so instead of leaving our cameras/lenses (2 bodies 4 lenses) in Germany we had to take them with us, so we were asked whether we were journalists - we said "no" and after a couple of further questions and answers we were allowed to take them into the country. ON an earlier occasion I had a pair of binoculars and these were (politely) taken by customs. Somewhat to my surprise they were returned when I left (I left at the same border post as my arrival). |
I wonder if something has changed this year on the back of the VoA announcement?
I still find it hard to believe there will be a free-for-all like pre-2003. The binoculars (jumelles) thing is an old one. I was leaving mine at the border 15 years ago - and was also surprised to get them back. I suppose they were useful to smugglers and AQIM types who didn't have a superzoom camera... |
I always bring binoculars to Africa and was never a problem. Not in Algeria or anywhere. (I am a birder).
Once at the Dahkla crossing a young aggressive soldier asked me why I had them but he was hushed by his superiors. |
Dakhla, Egypt or Dakhla, Western Sahara?
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Hi Chris, thanks a lot for the info.
We are on the DR 650 going south from Tunis. You are sure the Tozeur border into Algeria is open? We have the visa for Algeria. Enjoy the ride, Marcel |
No reason why border should be closed.
I take it you have dodged the escort rule. What nationality? I hope they let you pass. Only 30°C in El Oued today ;-) |
Thanks Chris, we are Dutch.
How did you dodge it? Any advise? |
I think if you got the visa without having the specify an agency/escort to meet you at the border you are OK.
Are you going all the way south for a look around? Unescorted, that will be be the test. Keep us posted. |
summer visit
dear all,
we went on a summer tour in Algeria: marseille bejaia Algiers Oran Tlemcen Taghit Timimoun Ghardaia Bakta-Timgad Constantine Annaba El-Kala border crossing El Aïoun (because on google maps malloula looked very busy, and this one was almost empty) on to Tunis to take the ferry to Civitavechia some findings: we are dutch and resident in the netherlands. Applied at Algerian Embassy with only a two day hotel booking and the rest of the paperwork, and that worked, but we had to wait 4 weeks! Our daughter applied separately, and did the same, but had to argue more why she only had two days hotel booking. We only got 14 days on our visa... just enough for our planned trip but weird as standard is 30 days. Other important points: I ended up going with the car alone and didnt manage to reserve a cabin so slept on the floor of the ferry. It seemed that everybody did that too although the cabins were full... so it was one big camping site all over the ship. When you disembark in Bejaia, the car with families get priority, the car with only men get put at the back.. so although i exited the ferry in the first say 50 cars, I had to wait 6 hours to get through! Process itself was fine as described in prev posts. Cash Machines! they dont work at all in Algeria (internatonial debit credit visa mastercard etc). Only one worked in the Aurassi hotel in Algiers. Did western union, but that also didnt come through for 2 days.. as the line was down. Three days later the western union at post office did retrieve the cash without me being there... still need to get that back... so bring euros! On police we only had two incidents; In Ghardaia we went to pick up our daughter from the airport (she flew in via ALgiers), we got questioned extensively on why we were there.. tourisme seems weird to all uniformed people.. We wanted to leave, but then were given a police escort car to drive us back to our guest house. When i asked the guesthouse (al Hakam), they said it seems routine to do if they spot you. But when we arrived earlier, and the next day, we had no issues like that. Apparently in 2016? tensions were there between the Mozabites and other Islam groups as cited as the reason. In El-Kala, we were woken up at 0200 by reception, saying police wanted to check our passports... despite reception had made a copy of our passports and details. The plainclothes officer looked at the passports, asked the who are we where we are going, when we leave etc. he left after that (in a police car) seemed to happen to others there as well. overall we loved algeria, wanna go back in winter to do some offroading and camping as we hit 50C at daytime and 44 at night (we did know that in advance). To me the desert area/dunes between Taghit and Timimoun look awesome, and is probably the closest proper desert/dunes to go to from Europe. Landscape around there has very similar vibes to Oman interior. |
Good job!
How was the checkpoints, and did you have to see the gendarmes for renseignements in every wilaya? |
I’ve now written up my own mini-guide for my own trip to Algeria, in which I was able to reach the far south, including Djanet, Tamanrasset and Asskrem.
Online here: http://wherenextbarney.me/routes/rou...-by-motorbike/ Cheers, Ed Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Solo female traveller
Hi - I wanted to ask about accomodation, did you find it easy to find places?
I'm actually coming across in my van, so can stay in it, however concerned as not sure how safe it is to do this. I have hotel booked for first and last night there as required to get my visa. I have my visa and will be coming from Tunisia, is the Malou Border Post safe one to cross? Appreciate any information - thanks |
I think to park van in the middle of nowhere would be quite unusual and police wont like it. So make sure you are out of sight or in plain sight in a town with someone's permission. Otherwise police may insist you park by a police station 'pour votre securité'.
Hotels will be a bit rough and/or very far apart down south, compared to neighbouring countries. Desert tourist towns are a bit different. I've not heard of Malou crossing. I only know Nefta into the desert. Or the one on the coast which are both fine. Not sure what is meant by an unsafe border. Ed may have more to add. He is there again now. |
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Hi there, Pretty much which Chris said. I think you’ll be safe staying in your van, just apply the usual common sense precautions plus I wouldn’t do it in car parks etc like you can in Europe - find somewhere out of sight and out of the way. I never felt insecure camping. I did not tell the gendarmes when I planned to do so, however, because I think that might have pushed their natural caution a bit too far. For hotels, they can be few and far between from El Melia southwards. Even towns like In Salah, where you’d expect there to be good trade given their location, only have a few of varying quality. You can find yourself paying a bit more due to lack of a competitive market, and especially so in tourist towns like Timmoun or Beni Abbas. Be prepared to camp if you want freedom to roam, would be my advice. Another tip is that there is a network of government auberges, if/when you can find them - they’re cheap as chips at 300DA a night, but pretty simple and a bit rough - don’t expect much more than a simple bed and some bed sheets that give of some fantastic static electricity sparks in the dark ;-). But they are good enough for what they are - somewhere to rest your head with a roof over it. Because it’s a cash based society, don’t expect anything from Booking.com or Airbnb away from the coast. I used Google Maps a lot, however, which was useful. Re border, I’m guessing you mean Maloula in the north? IDK about that one but when I exited Algeria at Taleb Larbi the queues on the DZ were very long. I had the good fortune of being on a motorbike so was able to skip the queue but it still took me an hour or two to complete formalities. Hope that’s of help. Get in touch if you have any other questions. Ed Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Algeria 2023 without an escort
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Hello. I want to add information about Algeria. .
I traveled through Algeria completely alone, on a motorbike, the whole time without police escort. Maybe I was just lucky. My route was: Italy - Tunisia Tunis border crossing Hidra - Tebessa, delay 6 hours. Biskra Laghouat Brezina Ain Sefra Timimoune Reggan In Salah Tamanrasset the way to Mount Assekrem Idles Djanet In Amenas Hassi Messaoud El Oued Tebessa - Hydra delay 2 hours Tunis If you search "Jebal fcb" on Facebook, there is a report every day. Both police and military checks always let me go without an escort, which was often offered to me, but not after my refusal. I am sorry for my bad English. Your site has helped me a lot. If you have questions, I'm happy to answer. |
Hello. I want to add information about Algeria. .
I traveled through Algeria completely alone, on a motorbike, the whole time without police escort. Maybe I was just lucky. My route was: Italy - Tunisia Tunis border crossing Hidra - Tebessa, delay 6 hours. Biskra Laghouat Brezina Ain Sefra Timimoune Reggan In Salah Tamanrasset the way to Mount Assekrem Idles Djanet In Amenas Hassi Messaoud El Oued Tebessa - Hydra delay 2 hours Tunis If you search "Jebal fcb" on Facebook, there is a report every day. Both police and military checks always let me go without an escort, which was often offered to me, but not after my refusal. I am sorry for my bad English. Your site has helped me a lot. If you have questions, I'm happy to answer. |
Wow, what an amazing trip!
Thanks for posting the pictures, the map, and sharing your experience with all of us. I spent a lot of time in Algeria back around 1999 - 2000, mostly in Hassi Messoud, In Salah, and In Amenas. But I was always there as a "worker", not a tourist, which meant someone else organized my food & accomodation. I'm curious to know what difficulties (if any) you had finding food and lodging during your travels. Do you speak French, or Arabic? I think one of those two languages would be almost essential for independent travel. Michael |
Unfortunately, I don't speak French, nor Arabic, only the basics of English. This combination proved to be the best in police-soldier checks. If I spoke their language well, they wouldn't let me go on, they would want a lot of information and demands, there was no possibility of mutual agreement like this, so they let me go on.
So I recommend NOT speaking any language. And thanks to that, I had no escort. I have a personal VASCO translator, I only used it to communicate with local people. I was in IN AMENAS for 3 days, due to several defects and bad work by the local mechanic. I slept several nights in a tent, in the wild - the Sahara, a wonderful experience. The Algerians said it was very dangerous, but I think it is dangerous to sleep in local hotels.:) Hotels are in bad condition, bad food, I always searched on google maps but they all have bad rating. I'm talking about the south! The north will probably be better as far as hotels are concerned. I definitely recommend to everyone to visit the place BREZINA, it is not as famous as Tamanrasset and Djanet, but it is a unique place. It exists only in Arizona and Brezina. I shot this video there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_CI4a5fCzg |
I’ve now written up a second guide, on the best of the off-tarmac desert routes I rode in my two months in the Algerian Sahara this autumn. Hope you enjoy!
https://wherenextbarney.me/algerian-...outh-off-road/ Cheers Ed |
Tamanrasset
Ed,
Thanks for the report. Algeria has been on my bucket list for a long time, in particular the south. Nowadays it seems a website had (barely) opened. I see you’ve been Tam, any restriction there ? I heard the Hoggar is closed ? We’re you allowed to ride from Tam to Djanet independently, or with an escort ? Around Djanet, did you take a guide, on his own vehicle ? Thanks mate. Laurent |
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No, I had no restrictions in the south, other than just telling the gendarmes where I planned to go at the various checkpoints. You will need to think carefully about what and how much information you tell them, however - they seemed very cautious about people going off the main roads. I chose not to tell them when I was planning to do that. I was able to ride from Djanet to Tam without an escort, however yes, in the immediate area around Djanet to the east and to the south east you still need a guide - as I understand it that has been the case even before the civil war in the 1990s. Ed |
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Guide/Report on how to visit Algeria without a guide, with your own vehicle
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Might then be worth testing the waters with the gendarmes in the other non-plateau areas around Djanet - I simply deferred to them on (perhaps erroneous) assumption that I couldn’t go to those areas anyway. In the way into town they insisted on escorting me to a hotel and telling me I wasn’t allowed to leave by moto without telling them first, which reinforced that assumption. However I had no problems just doing that the next morning - I may have then been able to take the road that Chris mentions and explore more, though that’s TBC, rather than just hot footing it westbound. Ed Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Second video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQZh00QL2Jc |
We saw that Jebal made it by road as far the the Libya-Niger roundabout (only 40km from town) but I agree the now popular Tadrart/Merzouga area (vehicle accessible rock art; huge dunes) right along the Libyan border and at least a 400km round trip from Djanet might be a step too far.
2018 we passed an army checkpoint (tent) as we entered the Tadrart canyon. They might be surprised to see a lone vehicle, not least a moto. Plus, without a guide (or waypoints) to ID locations, a trip here would be a little wasted. Fact is, there is nowhere dull to go in this entire SE corner of Algeria, even just the road ride from Bordj to Djanet. I now see the southbound 'Niger' road from the roundabout is sealed for 110km as far as 23.42991, 10.10172 where it joins old A15 right on the Illizi/Tam provincial boundary and just south of Adrar Marilou where patrols used to observe/stop passing traffic to/from Niger. 'A15' the Chirfa balise piste, also starts off sealed NW from that waypoint, but the res soon runs out on aerial mapping. I do wonder if the road direct from the roundabout is now the main way into Djanet, because A15 became famously sandy as you neared the old airport and Djanet from the south. Not far from the roundabout the 'Niger' road soon passes distinctive Mont Tiska (23.9, 9.8), a pre-GPS era landmark when coming up from Niger and aiming for Djanet. Tiska could also be a nice spot to explore or spend a night or two out of Djanet without frightening the horses. Balise piste in 1974 by the intrepid Yves Rohmer predating the '4WD' craze ;-) |
Thanks.
Do you reckon one could even go to Assekrem plateau independently ? If I make it to Djanet, then it would make sense to bite the bullet and hire a guide with his car for a few days. Won’t be cheap (100$/day?), but it can carry water, food and fuel, and most importantly, he’d know the best places to go to. Food for thought. Laurent |
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Yep Asskerem was fine for me - managed to do all three routes up/down, first at end of September and then again middle of November. Ed Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
I think about my next year trip to Africa. My first plan was to drive from Tunis to Alger and then to Tinduf and cross the border with Mauritania. But it can be difficult and maybe they (gandarmerie) will not let me pass.
So my second plan was to drive as ussual from Tanger south and then during my way back drive to Choum and cross the border. If it will fail I can always return. I want to do it without guide, but I think it could be possible with guide waiting for you on the border. Any suggests??? |
From the south (RIM) up seems like a less risky way to do it for the reasons you mention.
I know someone who is heading that way now, but it will be at least a month or more. Ideally you get the Alg visa without the escort/tour requirement. |
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So better as you mention from south to north after all travel. It is not risky. I wait for the info, thank you for this news. |
We are now since 2 weeks in Algeria and made our way to In Amguel. No Problems with the police, only once turned back in a small road in Tlemcen Region, because too close to Morocco (30 km).
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We are now in Algiers waiting for our flight tomorrow.
We arrived in Tam on Tuesday and took a night flight yesterday, the more conveniant morning flights are usually sold out, when booking short term. This thread was somehow the trigger for our voyage, thanks for all the contributions. Without it, we would not have taken a chance to try travelling in Algeria. My first and last time here was in 2003. It worked all better than expected. We took the ferry from Almeria to Ghazaouet. Got off at 9.15 and had passed the Migration at 10.00. That was due to being foot passengers and ones of the first in line. There are way less foot passengers than drivers. It was good to have a booking for the first night to shorten the inquiries. We got the visa as described with some online bookings, proof of travel insurance and confirmation of employer. Our route was Ghazaouet- Tlemcen-Ain Sefra- Beni Ounif - Taghit - Adrar - Reggane - In Salah - In Amguel - Tazrouk - Tamanrasset. My Impression was, that we were stopped more often by the police in the north and between In Salah and In Amguel. But most often we did not have to wait for much time. As we were cycling on a tandem it was impossible to get unseen through the checkpoints. We always were transparent with the police, telling the next towns en route. Only 2 or 3 times they started the dialogue mentioning escorte or agency, and some first had to phone the line up, but we never had to argue, just wait a bit and "bon voyage". The only checkpoint, that was giving less confidence was 120 km behind In Salah, talking about aggression until Arak, but after 45 minutes, we could continue into the dusk and stayed the night at the simple service station hostel 20 km later. The police checkpoint in In Salah and a mobile Gendarmerie Check 2 km later were short and had no suspicion when we gave Tam as destination. I had the impression, that we always had a thorough check, when getting in a new Wilaya, but afterwards were waved through in the same Wilaya as they knew already about foreign cyclists coming through. After In Amguel, we had no more checkpoints in the Ideles and Tazrouk road. On our last day in Tamanrasset we went up the Assekrem road a bit, but the checkpoint at the crossroads did not even stop us. People were often happy to meet us and especially the south hopes that tourists are coming back in greater numbers. It seems that the Escort requirement for Assekrem has fallen not so long ago, but things can change again quickly. We were told, that there was some gold found recently in the Hoggar and the government tries to push back illegal prospection and mining. |
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Congrats Chris! Great to hear that you made it down and around successfully. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
I did the same thing, but at the border they blocked me because I didn't have a guide, but I know that some people like you did it, I didn't have a real explanation for the reason for the block, I even asked the Algerian agency that told me he prepared all the documents with the officials, but it was not enough, they reasoned that they had received these provisions from Algeri.
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Another report!
Hello Everyone,
After years of using the HUBB for my own benefit and not “giving back,” this thread made me create an account. Visiting Algeria had already been in the back of my mind for a couple of years, and all your testimonials were very helpful in preparing everything. Here’s my experience getting into Algeria, traveling within it, and entering Tunisia with a motorcycle as of July 2024: The Plan My initial plan was to ride my motorcycle from Lisbon to Djanet and attend the Sebiba festival that took place during the first weeks of July. For that, I had planned a route going west from Oran to Taghit, Timimoun, In Salah, Tamanrasset, and finally Djanet, then back up from the east, heading towards Ghardaia, Constantine, and Tunisia. While planning everything in more detail, I realized that the condition of the road connecting Tamanrasset and Djanet would be a huge challenge for a bike carrying two people, 30+ kg of luggage, a lot of water, and extra fuel. So, unfortunately, I had to rethink my plan, forget about Djanet this time, and stick to Tamanrasset and the Ahaggar National Park as my final destination. (A plan that also failed.) Getting the Visa Applying for the visa started as an apparently easy process. I checked and gathered all the documentation I would need for me and my girlfriend. This included the ferry ticket (free cancellation until 48 hours before departure) and 3 hotel reservations I had made through Booking.com along the Algerian coast (also free to cancel, as that was the plan all along). I visited the Algerian embassy in Lisbon, explained our “coastal route,” handed everything in, and paid for the visas in less than 20 minutes. I was fortunate enough to deal with a very nice embassy worker. Some days later, I got a phone call from the embassy. They required proof that we were employed and wanted a signed document from our employers stating our functions within our companies. This was something that was not listed, but alright, two days later I was already handing them these additional documents. A week later, I received another call from the embassy. They wanted to confirm my planned route in Algeria and warn me that it was completely forbidden for me to go south. I got curious and asked what was considered south? The answer was “anything south of my route” (I had presented them the following route: Oran - Algiers - Annaba - Tunisia). I started to wonder what could go wrong and how they could control where I'll be going. It was enough to get me thinking but not enough to ditch my plan. Later that day, I received another phone call from the embassy. Maybe my curiosity previously got them suspicious, and they now wanted me to declare in a signed document that I was sticking to my route and not going anywhere else. At this point, I started to doubt the entire trip being possible. I really didn’t want to push it and face unpleasant consequences in Algeria. I slept on it, and the next day, I decided to write down that declaration. I wrote it in Portuguese and did my best to avoid any real commitment to my words. I was vague and stated a lot of “ifs”. I printed it, signed it, and went to the embassy for the last time. Another week passed with no news, and as our ferry departure date approached, I began to worry. Maybe my declaration declaring nothing did not convince them, and they would not issue us the visas. Four days before our ferry departure, I got the call: “Your visas are ready!” Finally, good news. The very next day, as soon as the embassy opened, I was already there picking up our passports, although the good outcome obviously came with a twist. We were granted only a 10-day visa, which would again interfere with our actual plan—a very naive mistake on our part as I was convinced that the tourist visa, independently of the route presented, would be 30 days. But that was not the case; they gave us the exact amount of time we needed for our fake coastal route. Lesson learned. The Ferry Eduarda and I left Lisbon towards Almeria (Spain), where we took the Naviera Armas/Trasmediterranea Ferry to Oran. The ferry was quite expensive but was the best option that suited our plan. Unlike Morocco or Tunisia, there are not a lot of alternatives. Expect to pay 250+ euros for a person and a motorcycle one-way ticket and expect only a couple of ferries per week (at least from Spain). The crossing from Almeria to Oran took around 6 hours, a walk in the park compared with the 30+ hours that were waiting for me some weeks later. We were the only tourists and the only motorcycle on the ferry. I guess it makes sense as it was July, but we’ll get to that in a bit. Getting In As soon as we got off the ferry, we got the green light from the Algerian authorities to skip the queue of cars, which is always a good start. In 10 minutes, we were already handing our passports to a police officer. “Portuguese? Cristiano Ronaldo!” We all smile, and our lives get automatically easier, and this could summarize every interaction I’ve had with the authorities and people in Algeria, and Africa in general. A big thanks to Cristiano for diplomatically making the life of every Portuguese citizen easier for the past 20 years. We both got our passports stamped in 30 minutes. Then it was time to get the bike into the country. One hour more for Douane, and we were free to roam Algeria. The whole process was super fast, in my opinion. Everything was simple, well-organized, and the officers were very helpful. I only had one officer checking my bags, who I later realized actually wanted some money, but as my French sucks, I honestly thought he wanted to know how much money I had with me. So, I guess he got confused with my french attempt of an answer for that, and he quit. As soon as you get out of the port, there’s a place where you can buy vehicle insurance. It cost us 15 euros for a month, and they also exchanged some money for us at a good rate given the circumstances (220 dinars for 1 euro). We ended up re-entering the port to buy a SIM card from the mobile operator stands at the exit. It’s mainly young people working there, and they were pretty helpful. We ended up choosing Mobilis, which had 80GB of internet for a month for less than 10 euros. With all these things taken care of, we were good to say goodbye to the port for good. Getting Around Booking a place to stay online doesn't really work in Algeria, and in some cases, you might fall victim to scams when booking rooms on shady websites. Google Maps will be your best solution for this. One thing we did was choose the hotel that suited our needs best for the next day and kindly ask someone from the hotel where we were staying to call and let them know in advance that we were coming the next day. We ended up exchanging all of our money at the first hotel where we stayed in Oran, so we don’t really know how it goes on the streets. However, it seems that everyone knows someone, and you'll always get a way better rate than in a bank. Fuel is ridiculously cheap in Algeria, around 35 euro cents per liter. It’s so cheap that on the outskirts of Timimoun, I was offered a full tank by the guy working at the fuel station. Algerians are very welcoming. As you might guess from what’s written above, the lack of tourism makes all interactions more genuine. No one is going to bother you or try to get something from you. Prices are the same for everyone, and with the exception of smaller towns (just like everywhere in the world), everyone will go on with their lives not caring at all about your presence. Food is good and cheap, from traditional to fast food. We stuck to places with good reviews. Roads are overall in good condition, despite a few beaten-up parts, nothing to worry about. We always had data coverage from my Mobilis SIM card. You’ll see plenty of antennas installed in the desert. What about police or checkpoints? To my surprise, I got stopped only twice. Maybe I was riding too early, maybe it was too hot for them to be outside, or maybe it was so foolish to be riding during that period that no traffic was being checked. Despite the distance from where we quit continuing south, I really felt like we could continue without any issue. The second time we got stopped was 200 km north of Taghit. It took 15 minutes as these were very surprised young police officers who wanted to confirm everything with a superior. The superior came, took a look at us and our passports, and let us go. We were still looking fresh and in good spirits despite it being 40ºC, but later that day we experienced 48ºC in Taghit. The Actual Trip Even after the setback with the short 10-day visa, we were still determined to reach Tamanrasset. We really didn’t think about how stupid and dangerous this would be with the high temperatures, but at least we were somewhat prepared: plenty of water, plenty of fuel, Dioralyte solutions, energy bars… The first days already showed us that it would not be fun. We were getting up at 5 am and trying to reach our destination before 12 pm. After reaching our destination, there’s not much you can do. It's too hot to walk around, too hot to do anything, and everyone is equally avoiding the heat. Every town turns into a ghost town after 12 pm. We were picking hotels with swimming pools to keep ourselves busy during the afternoon. It worked in Taghit, and we were actually able to relax with the shade from the trees and some casual breeze, but in Timimoun, we weren’t so lucky. There was no natural shade near the hotel pool, and it got really uncomfortable. Everything was literally burning hot to the point we actually burned our hands and feet trying to use the pool. That day, the thermometers registered 49ºC at 5 pm. On the fourth day of our trip, we rode from Taghit to Timimoun. The day started early for us with already 36ºC on the thermometer. It got hotter and hotter by the minute, and after 100 km we were already facing 40+ temperatures; it only got worse. We went through every tactic to cool ourselves down, but it was useless. 150 km from reaching Timimoun, we stopped at one of the last fuel stations before our destination. We took a break, but long breaks mean you’ll ride in even higher temperatures, so we tried to keep them short even when we really needed a longer one (like in this case). As soon as we left the gas station, we faced a sandstorm. It started as something tolerable, and I thought it would not last long, but that was not the case. It got worse every km, so bad to the point where you couldn’t even see the road or the motorcycle dashboard. The sand just blasted and got inside everything: our helmets, our gear, even the switch to turn the hazard lights was blocked with sand. I was forced to slow down a lot, which made it harder to deal with the wind gusts. It became more physically demanding and exhausting, especially dealing with the temperature. I started to worry that the bike could overheat and we would have to stop, which would be the worst place and time for that. After these long and tortuous 150 km, we reached Timimoun. My mood got better, and we went straight to the first gas station to fuel up, get off the bike, and appreciate that we got there and everything was okay. However, it wasn’t. Eduarda passed out, and my adrenaline rushed again. The situation made everyone at the fuel station take frozen water bottles from their cars and trucks to help out as they could. I got her a hydration solution, and she ate. She got better but not enough to get on the bike. I stopped a taxi and got her inside; our hotel was just a couple of km away. With no navigation as the phone couldn’t handle the temperature, I drained my last bit of energy trying to reach the hotel through very sandy streets. When we both got in our room, we both collapsed under the AC. After this, we knew we weren’t going to reach Tamanrasset, and our plan had to change again. In the end, our trip took us from Timimoun directly to Ghardaia, where we could finally experience some of the culture and walk around the market late in the afternoon. Our route was the following: Oran - El Abiodh Sidi Cheikh - Taghit - Timimoun - El Menia - Ghardaia - El Oued - Tozeur - Sousse - Tunis - Bizerte - Tunis https://i.ibb.co/CvxwNCZ/Whats-App-I...t-13-29-37.jpg Getting Out Unlike entering Algeria through the port of Oran, the border of Taleb el Arbi resembles more of an African border and is more demanding in terms of time. When leaving Algeria, we got charged a fee of 12,000 Algerian dinar for the fuel (a way of trying to get foreigners to pay more for the cheap fuel there?!?). The whole thing seemed legit, and they had a receipt ready. But I was caught by surprise and decided to act dumb, pulled the Ronaldo card, and got away without paying it. It took us 3 hours to get out of Algeria, a lot of waiting and repeating ourselves to different officers. In the process, one officer found that my bike's VIN number was not on the TIP paper and tried to escalate that into something. I played it cool, laughing and repeating, “I guess your colleague in Oran forgot about it,” showed him the VIN number on the bike and on the bike document, and after some waiting, he let us go. Again, thinking about it, it was surely a “give me something” situation, but the difficult communication and my genuine lack of understanding the signs made him quit. On the Tunisian side, everything was easier. Two booths, two officers, and we crossed it in less than an hour. We bought insurance directly from the border police officer while getting the bike in (that was a first for me)—25 euros for 15 days. And off we went. Final Thoughts Algeria is an awesome country to discover, and I am surely going back to finish what was initially planned. Avoid my mistakes (or not); riding during the summer is very challenging. Thanks to Ed Gill for helping me with some doubts before the trip, and thanks to Chris Scott for keeping valuable up-to-date info (a real public service) and also for the inspiration with the Arak rock photography trip report! Cheers and happy travels! |
Perhaps time to go back to Berliet #22
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPIUSzDDp0k |
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Glad that you and your girlfriend are back home and hopefully all safe and well. I must admit I hadn’t realised that you were planning to travel in July! The Adrar Region in particular is bad enough in late September/October let alone high summer so this was definitely brave to try! Part of me wonders whether the time of year influenced the embassy’s decision on your visa. But then again the official situation is still so unclear on that front, there appears to be no consistent policy. Your story is definitely one for others considering this trip to note - time of year is hugely important here. For me, early October to late March/early April is the time to go. Outside of that the logistics, particularly for any piste riding, just become too difficult in terms of safety, volume of water you need tk carry etc. Ed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Amazing trip and videos! I'm impressed with Berezina, just 450kms south of Oran.
I am looking for info: people say you need and escort, so I m trying to figure if you were lucky or if they allow you on a bike (compared to a 4WD car), since I saw a few cases (including yours). BTW, did you declare that you planned to go south? And the dron? |
ENTERING Algeria from Tunisia without a guide?
I think I've read 2 reports now where people have entered Algeria from Tunisia (Taleb Larbi) without a guide, since early 2023.
Is there anyone else, or do you know of anyone? Most reports cover in and out by ferry, or in by ferry and out by land. The 2 agencies I have spoken to have (obviously) said that to arrive by land you MUST have a guide booked from that point on. We have just about missed our window for getting a visa in Frankfurt, but we will probably try to make some detours to put the application in anyway. Costs are too high for us to have a guide that is with us all the time, and a rigid plan isn't our cup of tea. We are close to make or break to include Algeria in December in our trip, but we soooooo want to go there! Sure, we can roll up at the border and try our luck, but when our mouths are watering already at the prospect of "touring" Algeria, it would be such a disappointment to not even get in! Obviously from some point (.....?) south we need a guide, that's a given. Anyone got any better suggestions or tips? If I were posting on Insta or somewhere, it would be a survey: go for it // leave it out ?! ?c? |
To enter without a guide do not contact agencies; arrange booked lodgings (certificate d'hebergement) to get the visa. Ferry or overland, it's the same. Only fly-ins get visa on arrival (because they are on an agency tour).
Or on the visa app, just say you are exploring the north in a campervan. This has worked for others on and off for years, but is unpredictable and will depend on consulate and nationalities. Then try and slip south (of In Salah/Hassi Messaoud) and see how far you get. They will only turn you back. See: https://wherenextbarney.me/routes/ro...-by-motorbike/ or read similar info here. If you can sweet talk checkpoints (speak French) you can travel right through the south. The north will have fewer hurdles as long as you give the right answers. To 'roll up at the border and try our luck...' would be a waste of time, as it would anywhere in the world that requires visas in advance. Algeria in not like other countries. More like Iran: difficult (without escorts) but worthwhile. |
You´d need the visa in advance for entering Algeria from Tunisia, applications for visa better include a booking. I'd take the chance of a visa application at the embassy in FFM, even if its yet pretty close to your planned departure.
Somewhere in this forum s/one posted some time ago contact details of a woman running a guesthouse or hotel in Algier, who seems to play along the game of issuing booking receipts and/or invitational letters for the entire time of your month(s) long visa application, but she´s obviously fine with it, if you just pay or stay a (few) night(s) and freely continue your trip. |
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What turned out to be a little seed sown has turned into an itch that can only be scratched by actually going there :-) PS My French is appalling... school O Level a zillion years ago |
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This was the post you refer to (so new readers can see): https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...algeria-103794 |
Trip report december 2024
Following al the reports in this thread, we also had a go at the deep South without a guide last december/january. We got the visa before departure by booking some hotels (in the North). We took a 'hybrid' approach and planned to meet a guide somewhere around Djanet, arranged by another couple traveling with their own vehicle around the same dates. Our plan was to 'test the waters' and see how far we would get and what we could do without a guide.
Going south along Biskra/Touggourt we met our first serious checkpoint in Hassi Messaoud. They were definitely surprised to see a solo vehicle, but they let us go after escorting us through town (standard procedure in Hassi Messaoud we understood). The next checkpoints we stuck to the story that we would meet our guide in Illizi, and that was good enough for most. One of the checkpoints wanted to know which agency we where traveling with and tried to reach our guide (but didn't get a hold of him). We decided to try our luck and see if we could get to the Bordj Omar Driss - Illizi piste. According to our agency the piste was 'closed' north to south. The checkpoint at the crossroads to BOD let us turn off the RN3, which gave us some (false) hope. Once we were in BOD, we were escorted to the gendarmerie station. The officers seemed genuinely concerned and asked us repeatedly what we were doing here and if we knew that this was not the route to Illizi. After explaining them that we knew that we had to go back to the RN3, they told us that the piste to Illlizi was not safe due to 'terrorist activity'. We already decided to not push it further, but were also escorted all the way back to the RN3. After this experience we decided to just meet with the guide in Tassili N'Ajer and enjoy the rest of the trip (Djanet, Tadrart, Assekrem, Tamanrasset). The guides were sharing just enough of our travel plans to get through the checkpoints, but still having the freedom to explore some smaller pistes. Deviating from this plan was also not possible ('interdit'). The agency later told us that sometimes they get permission to explore a piste from one direction (i.e. going from Illizi to BOD), but not from the other direction because the local military interprets the rules differently. On the way back North, we were able to drive unescorted from Erg Mehedjibat and up (this is where our group split up). After a few weeks in Algeria, it was clear that you can indeed dodge the escort rule, especially if you stick with the main roads and shorter bits of piste. But to explore some of the more remote pistes, you need a lot of local knowledge (or time) to make it work. The comments about 'terrorist activity' and the concerns about our safety felt empty at the time, but the news about the Spanish tourist made us realize that there might have been some truth to it. Let's hope it does not impact tourism and the freedom to roam too much. |
Thanks for your report.
From my very first travels in Alg, 'interdit' was a word I heard all the time. I find it hard to think there is terrorist activity on the 'Graveyard Piste' to Illizi. Terrorists from where and doing what? It's not even a viable smuggling corridor. However, this is where the mass of the 2003 aductions took place and afaik that classic route has been closed ever since. But as you say each regional authority interprets rules differently. I think meeting a good guide down south is a smart way to do it. You can claim genuinely to northern CPs you have a rendezvous, so it would be just like the pre-escort / GPS days: you hired a knowledgeable guide to do a new route. Of course these days they are supposed to escort you border to border and may not work for motos, but with a few vehicles the cost gets minimal, they can show you good places, be fun to be with and help blag the CPs. Otherwise, get and stay on the piste for as long as possible - also does not really work with motos. |
Indeed, the answer to our questions was either 'interdit' or 'comme vous voulez'. It was soon clear that there was not much to choose from though... (except departure times, lunch stops, etc.)
We understood that another group (with guide) did the Graveyard Piste the other way round (south to north), so it does not seem to be completely of limits. The only problem with meeting the guide only in the south, is that the agency might get in trouble for leaving you unescorted, so they might be hesitant to organize this. |
thanks for your report, good to read. The kidnap is a worry... giving out rewards for kidnapping is a bad development in an area with high unemployment.. I still wonder how they managed to kidnap the spanish tourist at assekrem and get him across the border without getting caught before.. quite a few tourists, guides and army posts around that area
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Accompanied trip Tam & Djanet
Beginning of December 2024 we decided to try to get to South Algeria. As visa timings were very short, and it is in the south, we chose to go via an agent, one of the ones recommended by Chris Scott in sahara overland. With only two weeks before our travel date this was pretty ambitious, but we got it one day before travelling. We got an approval for boarding, not visa, and then went through the visa process upon arrival in Algers. Travelling by plane from Algers to Tam at this time of they year is a struggle... air algers doesnt have enough planes, so this flight is pretty fully booked (we couldnt book from netherlands). Our and our guide's hope was for no-shows... and they werent after 12 hours of waiting at the airport (there are direct and indirect flights to Tam), so we slept a bit at the airport and flew next day to Djanet at 0530 in the end, to go with a driver to Tam the next day and start our tour there.
We did Assekrem, and from there to the beautiful Tahifet wadi, Tazrouk. We had planned to camp around Serouenout, but our local guide said he wasnt keen to camp there due to illegal gold diggers. First time we heard about gold in algeria, so when we had cell reception we checked on the internet... and indeed its an issue with Mali and Niger gangs gearing up with locals to dig for gold at night. Military is doing lots of raids in the desert and its not funny of course to get caught in the middle of this. Its seems Bordj El Haouas is the epic centre, with lots of men from Mali/Niger waiting to be picked up for work, diesel generators and jack hammers on sale.. and fast petrol pick-ups around (it seems newer petrol toyotas are not allowed in algeria as they can outrun the police and military....but we always felt safe. We visited 70km west of Djanet, north of the main road, some very nice scenery, off road/tracks ending around 40km west, easy to follow tracks there. Bit of wadi rum vibes in that area and seems to be on the day trip from Djanet with lots of traffic. Overall no (real) CP encountered, whereas this Tam Djanet road was closed 2 years ago, and one year ago required escort. Travelling east. It still has two major dirt track sections, one starting 72km west of Idles for about 75km, then some 20km tarmac, then another 25km dirt track, and then tarmac all the way to Djanet. Being a passenger, rather then driving has his pro and cons.. Pro is no stress, great food cooked three times a day, safety and no issues with police, plenty of breaks and lot of time to detox from our hurried lives and phone...and real value for money. Cons... less exciting... sometimes outright boring.. slowish driving offroad, and the guide is actually more a cook and points out where to drive and camp, than an expert guide on nature and history.. Last point to share is the local hospital/clinic in Djanet. I had climbed some rocks, fell on the way down and slit open my hand requiring 5 stitches. Local clinic was very efficient, but police will come straight away requiring a full report and our guide had to go to police station twice...maybe because of what happened last year in Djanet? Overall did a good job on my hand I can say two months later. Will go back again, really keen to come with own car and arrange guide with car , from Tunisia south to djanet, Tam then west to Tindouf, mauritania, west sahara and up to Morocco. Our guide believes this is possible (guided in the south). |
I am also from the Netherlands and would like some more info on the visa application in the Hague, as I plan a trip later this year. How difficult is the application without an invitation of an agency? How many hotel reservations are required? How long does the application take? Did the embassy ask extra documents for bringing your own car to Algeria? Thanks a lot
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Thank You for this, Jabal FC,
On your travels in Algeria did you see any overlanders going south to Mali-Niger-Nigeria? (I'm planning a trip in Africa during Winter 2025 and it looks like the route may be too risky for kidnap/bandits.) |
No tourist has crossed into Niger since 2011 - and even that was sketchy. I very much doubt you'll get very far south of Tam.
As for northern Mali, it's been unsafe for much longer. It won't take much Googling to find out why. To cross the desert these days go via Morocco coast or Tindouf to RIM. https://sahara-overland.com/routes/ |
Tindouf to RIM (and furtjer south through Africa)
Thanks Chris,
If my 2025 winter start goes ahead I'll look at Tindouf to RIM, which looks really interesting. Mauritania looks both interesting and challenging too (followed by some more months heading south.) And I'll need to check the current security situation again then. I don't fancy Egypt again, although ItchyBoots has put Saudi Arabia back on the map, so the alternative may be Jeddah to Port Sudan. BTW I did an AI search on the web about possible routes, and it didn't have your nugget of information about nobody having done the central route via Algeria for years. I'll paste the output below, because it does have some visa cost calculations and it may be useful to someone: ================FROM CHAT GPT =============== Sign in Today You said Help me plan a solo motorcycle overland trip from north africa to South Africa this winter. With ongoing wars and security concerns, what routes can be done (E.g. West AFrica, or Algeria to Tamanrasset, or Egypy to Sudan? Copilot said Planning a solo motorcycle overland trip from North Africa to South Africa is an exciting adventure! Given the current security concerns and ongoing conflicts in some regions, it's essential to choose a safe and feasible route. Here are some options: East Coast Route This is generally considered the safest and most straightforward route: Egypt to Sudan: Start in Egypt and cross into Sudan. The border crossing at Wadi Halfa is a common route. Sudan to Ethiopia: Travel through Sudan to Ethiopia. Be sure to check the current security situation in Ethiopia, as it can be unstable at times. Ethiopia to Kenya: Continue from Ethiopia to Kenya. The Moyale border crossing is a popular choice. Kenya to Tanzania: Travel through Kenya to Tanzania. The roads are relatively well-maintained. Tanzania to Zambia: Continue south through Tanzania to Zambia. Zambia to South Africa: Finally, travel through Zambia to South Africa. West Coast Route This route is more challenging due to security concerns in some regions: Morocco to Mauritania: Start in Morocco and travel south to Mauritania. The border crossing at Nouadhibou is commonly used. Mauritania to Senegal: Continue from Mauritania to Senegal. Senegal to Mali: Travel through Senegal to Mali. Be cautious, as some areas in Mali can be dangerous. Mali to Burkina Faso: Continue south to Burkina Faso. Burkina Faso to Ghana: Travel through Burkina Faso to Ghana. Ghana to Togo and Benin: Continue through Ghana to Togo and Benin. Benin to Nigeria: Travel through Benin to Nigeria. Be aware of security concerns in some parts of Nigeria. Nigeria to Cameroon: Continue from Nigeria to Cameroon. Cameroon to Gabon: Travel through Cameroon to Gabon. Gabon to Congo: Continue south to Congo. Congo to Angola: Travel through Congo to Angola. Angola to Namibia: Continue from Angola to Namibia. Namibia to South Africa: Finally, travel through Namibia to South Africa. Central Route This route is less common and can be more dangerous: Algeria to Niger: Start in Algeria and travel south to Niger. The route through Tamanrasset is an option, but be cautious of security concerns. Niger to Chad: Continue from Niger to Chad. Chad to Central African Republic: Travel through Chad to the Central African Republic. Central African Republic to Democratic Republic of Congo: Continue south to the Democratic Republic of Congo. Democratic Republic of Congo to Zambia: Travel through the Democratic Republic of Congo to Zambia. Zambia to South Africa: Finally, travel through Zambia to South Africa. Important Considerations Security: Always check the latest travel advisories and security updates for each country you plan to visit. Visas and Permits: Ensure you have the necessary visas and permits for each country. Health: Make sure you have the required vaccinations and carry any necessary medications. Motorcycle Maintenance: Be prepared for potential breakdowns and carry spare parts and tools. Accommodation: Plan your accommodation in advance, especially in remote areas. For more detailed information and route planning, you can refer to resources like Adventurism.tv and Yamaha Adventure. Stay safe and enjoy your adventure! ????️???? You said Compare the three routes above in terms of the total visa costs for an Irish citizen Copilot said Sure, let's break down the visa costs for an Irish citizen traveling through the three routes: East Coast Route Egypt: €25 for a single-entry visa. Sudan: €100 for a single-entry visa. Ethiopia: €40 for a single-entry visa. Kenya: €50 for a single-entry visa. Tanzania: €50 for a single-entry visa. Zambia: €50 for a single-entry visa. South Africa: No visa required for stays up to 90 days. Total Cost: €315 West Coast Route Morocco: No visa required for stays up to 90 days. Mauritania: €55 for a single-entry visa. Senegal: No visa required for stays up to 90 days. Mali: €70 for a single-entry visa. Burkina Faso: €50 for a single-entry visa. Ghana: €150 for a single-entry visa. Togo: €20 for a single-entry visa. Benin: €50 for a single-entry visa. Nigeria: €100 for a single-entry visa. Cameroon: €100 for a single-entry visa. Gabon: €85 for a single-entry visa. Congo: €100 for a single-entry visa. Angola: €120 for a single-entry visa. Namibia: No visa required for stays up to 90 days. South Africa: No visa required for stays up to 90 days. Total Cost: €900 Central Route Algeria: €85 for a single-entry visa. Niger: €60 for a single-entry visa. Chad: €100 for a single-entry visa. Central African Republic: €150 for a single-entry visa. Democratic Republic of Congo: €100 for a single-entry visa. Zambia: €50 for a single-entry visa. South Africa: No visa required for stays up to 90 days. Total Cost: €545 Summary East Coast Route: €315 West Coast Route: €900 Central Route: €545 The East Coast Route is the most cost-effective in terms of visa fees. However, always check the latest visa requirements and fees, as they can change. Safe travels! ????️???? You said What are the safety considerations for each route? Copilot said Safety is paramount when planning an overland motorcycle trip through Africa. Here are some key considerations for each route: East Coast Route Egypt to Sudan: Generally safe, but be cautious of political unrest and avoid border areas with Libya. Sudan to Ethiopia: Check for updates on the security situation in Ethiopia, as it can be unstable. Ethiopia to Kenya: The Moyale border crossing is popular, but the region can be volatile. Stay informed about local conditions. Kenya to Tanzania: Relatively safe, but be cautious in remote areas and national parks. Tanzania to Zambia: Safe, but ensure your motorcycle is well-maintained for long distances. Zambia to South Africa: Generally safe, but be aware of wildlife and road conditions. West Coast Route Morocco to Mauritania: Safe, but avoid the Western Sahara region due to landmines. Mauritania to Senegal: Safe, but be cautious of petty crime in urban areas. Senegal to Mali: Mali has regions with high security risks due to terrorism and conflict. Avoid northern and central areas. Mali to Burkina Faso: Similar to Mali, Burkina Faso has regions with high security risks. Stay updated on travel advisories. Burkina Faso to Ghana: Ghana is relatively safe, but be cautious in border areas. Ghana to Togo and Benin: Generally safe, but be aware of petty crime. Benin to Nigeria: Nigeria has significant security concerns, including terrorism and kidnapping. Avoid high-risk areas. Nigeria to Cameroon: Similar to Nigeria, Cameroon has regions with high security risks. Stay informed about local conditions. Cameroon to Gabon: Gabon is relatively safe, but be cautious in remote areas. Gabon to Congo: Congo has regions with high security risks. Avoid conflict zones. Congo to Angola: Angola is generally safe, but be cautious of landmines in rural areas. Angola to Namibia: Namibia is relatively safe, but be aware of wildlife and road conditions. Namibia to South Africa: Generally safe, but be cautious in urban areas. Central Route Algeria to Niger: The route through Tamanrasset is an option, but be cautious of security concerns in the Sahara region. Niger to Chad: Chad has regions with high security risks due to terrorism and conflict. Avoid high-risk areas. Chad to Central African Republic: The Central African Republic has significant security concerns. Avoid conflict zones. Central African Republic to Democratic Republic of Congo: The Democratic Republic of Congo has regions with high security risks. Stay informed about local conditions. Democratic Republic of Congo to Zambia: Zambia is relatively safe, but be cautious in remote areas. Zambia to South Africa: Generally safe, but be aware of wildlife and road conditions. General Safety Tips Avoid Conflict Zones: Always check the political stability of the areas you plan to visit and avoid regions with ongoing conflicts1. Protect Yourself from Robbery: Carry copies of your official documents, use a "dummy wallet," and avoid displaying valuables1. Health Precautions: Ensure you have the required vaccinations and carry any necessary medications2. Vehicle Maintenance: Prepare your motorcycle for the journey and carry spare parts and tools3. Emergency Planning: Stay connected and have a plan for emergencies1. For more detailed safety tips, you can refer to resources like Africa Fevers and Tracks4Africa. Stay safe and enjoy your adventure! ????️???? 1africafevers.com2blog.tracks4africa.co.za3blog.tr acks4africa.co.za You said What are the most dangerous areas to avoid? Copilot said When planning your overland motorcycle trip through Africa, it's crucial to be aware of the most dangerous areas to avoid due to conflicts, terrorism, and high crime rates. Here are some of the most dangerous regions: East Coast Route Sudan: The ongoing conflict and political instability make certain areas, especially Darfur and the border regions, highly dangerous. Ethiopia: The Tigray, Amhara, and Oromia regions face internal conflicts and ethnic tensions. Kenya: The northeastern region near the Somali border is prone to terrorist attacks by Al-Shabaab. West Coast Route Mali: Northern and central Mali are highly dangerous due to terrorist activities and armed conflicts. Burkina Faso: The northern and eastern regions face frequent attacks by Islamist militant groups. Nigeria: The northeastern region is highly dangerous due to Boko Haram and other terrorist groups. The Niger Delta region also has high crime rates. Cameroon: The Far North region near the Nigerian border is prone to terrorist attacks by Boko Haram. Congo: The eastern regions face instability due to armed rebel groups and violent clashes. Central Route Algeria: The Sahara region, including Tamanrasset, can be dangerous due to banditry and terrorism. Niger: The border regions with Mali and Libya face security concerns due to terrorist activities. Chad: The Lake Chad region is highly dangerous due to Boko Haram and other terrorist groups. Central African Republic: The entire country faces significant security concerns due to armed groups and frequent violence. Democratic Republic of Congo: The eastern regions are highly dangerous due to armed rebel groups and violent clashes. General Safety Tips Stay Informed: Regularly check travel advisories and security updates for each country you plan to visit. Avoid High-Risk Areas: Steer clear of regions with ongoing conflicts, terrorism, and high crime rates. Travel in Groups: Whenever possible, travel with others for added safety. Emergency Contacts: Keep a list of emergency contacts, including local embassies and consulates. For more detailed information, you can refer to resources like Traveling Lifestyle and The World Bucket List. Stay safe and enjoy your adventure! ????️???? You said What are the main reasons these areas are considered dangerous? Copilot said The main reasons these areas are considered dangerous include: East Coast Route Sudan: Ongoing conflict and political instability, especially in regions like Darfur and the border areas1. Ethiopia: Internal conflicts and ethnic tensions in regions like Tigray, Amhara, and Oromia1. Kenya: Terrorist attacks by Al-Shabaab in the northeastern region near the Somali border1. West Coast Route Mali: Terrorist activities and armed conflicts in northern and central regions1. Burkina Faso: Frequent attacks by Islamist militant groups in the northern and eastern regions1. Nigeria: Terrorism by Boko Haram in the northeastern region and high crime rates in the Niger Delta1. Cameroon: Terrorist attacks by Boko Haram in the Far North region1. Congo: Instability due to armed rebel groups and violent clashes in the eastern regions1. Central Route Algeria: Banditry and terrorism in the Sahara region, including Tamanrasset1. Niger: Security concerns due to terrorist activities in the border regions with Mali and Libya1. Chad: Terrorism by Boko Haram and other groups in the Lake Chad region1. Central African Republic: Significant security concerns due to armed groups and frequent violence1. Democratic Republic of Congo: Armed rebel groups and violent clashes in the eastern regions1. These regions face a combination of terrorism, armed conflicts, political instability, and high crime rates, making them dangerous for travelers. Always stay informed and check travel advisories before planning your trip. 1: African Leadership Magazine 1www.africanleadershipmagazine.co.uk |
Your AI generated information is highly misleading in some cases, wholly incorrect in others. For example, the east coast route is neither "easy" nor "straightforward," and as of several weeks ago the Sudan border was closed. Furthermore, the Algeria/Niger route has been fully off-limits for years, as you've been told. The west coast route used by most people these days avoids both Mali and Burkina Faso, with good reason. Et cetera.
I'm not reading through your whole post, but I'm sure there are bits and pieces which are, in fact, true. The problem is how to make use of such a volume of information without fact-checking piece by piece, bit by bit. If you're going to do that, you might as well skip the AI part of your research entirely, because it's just going to get in the way. I'm prepared to be shown incorrect about any or all of the above. Have fun, whatever you choose to do! |
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Interesting exercise – facts mixed with errors, as Mark observed, along with achingly obvious suggestions like 'Avoid high-risk areas.' while appearing to list them anyway. But visa costs are handy, as said.
Funnily enough, the other week I heard of young people using AI to plan their hols. That would never occur to me as the above rubbish is what I'd expect, once you get beyond 'plan me an inter rail tour of Europe's most popular cities'. Luckily we have the excellent HUBB: just about the best source of easily accessible overland travel advice based on actual experiences. What a great idea! West Coast via a specific list of countries is the only way to do trans Af right now. A tedious hurdle of visa apps. Example by a mate below. Went via Tindouf and currently in Angola. https://share.garmin.com/VintageTenere. |
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