That is odd Chris, I applied in person at the London consulate about 6 weeks ago with an approved letter from a Djanet tour company and didn't hear anything back for 5 weeks. I had to get my passport off them last week for travel. Rode the iron ore train from Zouerate to the coast instead - not quite as good scenery for sure (and still washing iron ore off my skin after many showers..)

D - it may depend on which agency and if they have the clout to push it through with the ministry up north.

The German outfit who is taking us uses Megzereine in Illizi - long established.Maybe that helps

Our route Ro, is the usual Arafa circuit then down to Tadrart and Tin Merzouga and back to Iz. I think everyone uses this circuit - it is all there is off highway right now.

Mezrirene I think. Had a run-in with Ahmed Zegri in 2009.

"Megzereine in Illizi - long established.Maybe that helps" It's good to know.
And do you travel with your own vehicles?
RR.

We travel on our bikes - Trossman will deliver them to Illizi in his MAN.

Myself, i would not waste any more time on Zegri for my own tour. After many many months and all the comms I could think of, he gave me good prices for camelling but then went quiet.

"then went quiet" pffffff, same old song...
RR.

Zegri appears to work with the Germans
Mezrirene Aventure Tuareg-Reisen
I found him unpleasant (and expensive) in 2009

Perhaps the time is ripe for another trip in own vehicle

Hi guys

A session of insomniac surfing brings me back to the HUBB for the first time in a few months. This Algeria thread is bringing up some VERY happy memories and whetting my appetite for a return visit. Although after Algeria for a month at Christmas 2015, Lebanon for a month at Christmas 16, Algeria for 2 weeks in March 17 and Tunisia for a week in Oct 17, we are giving the MENA a break and going to Taiwan for a month at Christmas 17!

Re the mentions of English-speaking guides - as well as the ones you have talked about, there is Mohammed who works with Artur of Torre.pl and took us on our trip around Djanet in March 2017. He was fine - Artur can maybe put you on to him.

Merry Christmas to all and give my love to Algeria!

Mark

Artur of Torre.pl is working with Tinariwen Tours
Tinariwenn Tours,private Algeria tours,Sahara desert tours from Djanet
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ariwen%20tours
They are based in Djanet and they speak English.

The account of our last trip is now complete and online: Tadrart and Tassili N'Ajjer, Algeria - March-April 2017


http://www.fjexpeditions.com/expedit...li17/P5889.jpg

Oh, wow Andrasz,

I searched this paintings on the plateau of N'Ajjer for several days a few years ago (without guide), found some - but your photos are fantastic - Thank you very much for sharing.

Greetings
Ferdi

Most guides will only know the classic Lhote sites on the main tourist trails of Tamrit-Sefar and the Tadjelahine. To find the more recent discoveries (which are often in much better condition, thanks to not being subject to any moistening, a devastating practice first propagated by the Abbe Breuil and taken on by Lhote and others) one needs to dwell deep into various obscure publications, then go look for them with varying success. A good case point is the beautiful site of Tissebouk, which is just 50 metres off the Djanet-Illizi road, yet nobody knows about it (may it stay for long like that).

http://www.fjexpeditions.com/expedit.../P0408_lds.jpg

(Image processed with DStretch LDS filter)

Very amazing!
How is possible that nobody knew this picture?
Have you seen it?
RR.

It was first published in the late nineteen seventies by Jürgen Kunz, a German researcher, and the article is in a rather obscure journal, only available in German (which cuts off all Algerian and most French from accessing immediately). The location information was very vague, it took me 3 years to find it, only succeeded after establishing contact with Jürgen who is now in his eighties but is still active, he last visited the central Tassili last spring.

Yes Andrasz,
it will be better to do not give exactly informations of the location of this nice places and paintings. Go further on!
Thank you again.
Ferdi

Jil Voyages vs Tinariwen Tours
 

This is an example how big algerian tour operator from the North (Jil Voyages) promote themselves by using photos of Touareg based Tinariwen Tours from Djanet.

https://www.facebook.com/jilvoyages/...66763243411069

P.S. I contacted Tinariwen Tours and they said that they do not work with Jil Voyages.

A 'Dakar' type event proposed by ASO - and even a TdF stage (ASO also run that).

2018, the year when tourism will take off in Algeria?

...It remains to be seen whether the Algerian authorities will seize the opportunities that come their way this year. In a context of declining hydrocarbon revenues, tourism could be a good source of income diversification. But reviving tourism will not be easy. Algeria is sorely lacking in tourist infrastructure and administrative obstacles remain numerous: difficulty to obtain visas, expensive air transport ...

Just back from the Illizi/Djanet area:

• Foreign vehicles require gendarmerie escorts border to border, but they may lose interest as you get south and said not be apply in the west (Bechar wilaya). The inter-district change-overs can be instant or can take hours. One group out of Algiers in 2017 took a week to get to Ghardaia; Taleb Larbi (El Oued) escorts relatively normal and swift.

• Planes leave Algiers for Illizi and Djanet early in the morning which means an overnight stay in Algiers. The Ibis (free shuttle on the hour; 10-15 mins) is 80 euro. At Arrivals money changers will find you: €1=19d, maybe 20. So diesel (below; Djanet in town) works out at 10p/litre and UNL less than twice that.

• Checkpoints down south have been largely dropped I was told; they usually know you're coming and with a gendarmerie escort you sail through on blue lights.

• Illizi province may be open for off-roading (with agency guide of course), but not all of it (map below - bigger version) and much of it is largely undriveable Fadnoun/Tassili plateau.

• Tassili rock art plateau was closed and we saw only a couple of tourists in Djanet and a 3-car group in Tadrart.

More info here

Hi Chris,

I have some questions......:innocent:
"Taleb Larbi (El Oued) escorts relatively normal and swift."
If I understand well , you were with your bikes, and it means you were escorted by a green/white gendarmerie car, that is?
Were you escorted by this car until Djanet or only El Oued?
And if you were with your car, it is the same or only the guide with you?
Which Agency have you took for this trip?
About the map, can you tell how far west from Zaouatenlaz it's possible to go:
Until Thiodaine? And what about Graveyard piste?
Sorry for all these questions

RR.

Hi Ro, our bikes were on a trailer. We flew in to Illizi a couple of days later. (Fyi, this was not my tour but one I helped fill).
The truck (with agency guide sitting in it) was escorted as far as halfway down Gassi Touil - then they let them go, but all points ahead were expecting them.
It is a series of escorts which change at each district - that is what can slow things down, but on this occasion the changeovers were efficient I was told.
The German operator Wustenfahrer has used Agence Mezrirene for many years.
I spoke to Ahmed during the trip (annoyed that earlier replies to Mez have dried up over the years) but he seems like good guy. We will see if subsequent replied get responses for an idea of mine.
Technically Tihodaine is in Tam wilaya, but it is so close maybe you can visit? It was never on our itinerary.
We were told we would do the Graveyard Piste - some came especially for it but at the last minute it was closed due to car thieves from Illizi hiding out there.
We would have gone Ain el Hadjhadj, west over the jebel, down and under the spur of Tifernine, out via Ta Haft canyon to come to Tamajert from the NW. That would have been a great route.
Graveyard piste all the way to HbG is I think closed anyway.

Thanks a lot!
RR.

If the area just south of Erg Admer is out of bounds, along with anywhere south of the new and old airport at Djanet right down to the Niger cutline, then how can the Algerian authorities be so confident about the Tadrart region given its proximity to trouble in both far flung southern Libya and northern Niger?

I've wondered that myself.
Afaict, Tadrart is a bit of a basin tucked behind the tassili and chiefly accessible down the winding In Djerane canyon then ringed with dunes along the Libyan border through which cars cannot pass easily (though Ahmed said there was a way).
There's also a checkpoint at the entrance, and another in the similar canyon 16km to the south - to discourage migrant traffickers I was told.
I guess they must feel they can control things down here.

In Djerane has many well-known rock art sites and Moul n Aga cirque at the back (below) is also famous (on the 1000-dinar note).
That may have something to do with maintaining access for tourists, despite the seeming exposure.

Just before the Tadrart turn-off I also saw a sign and a well-built piste leading south to In Ezzane.
The N3b from Djanet is sealed all the way to Tin Alkoum (closed).
No one really knew who runs the show in Ghat.

Some great photos from 2008.
 

Tourism, Tam' & Hoggar
 

Familiar, gloomy, reportage from Salima at El Watan (via Tamoudre) informs the aficionados little but may help to explain the realpolitik for any newbees.

Tamanrasset:Les agences de tourisme sont poussées à la fermeture - Tamoudre: Touaregs, vie et survie

So bad:(
RR.

Article is removed from El Watan? Salima T is their reporter covering the south and touareg matters.

It is theoretically possible to do a rally through Algeria and Mauretania with security all the way to Dakar isn't it?

Meanwhile, Alger is continuing to play its strange games. Iyad ag Ghali is living quietly in Tin Zahouatine, but when the French operation Barkhane killed 23 of his men Feb 14
Mali : un proche d’Iyad Ag Ghaly tué dans un raid de Barkhane à la frontière algérienne – JeuneAfrique.com
he retaliated by orchestrating the attack on Ouagadougou March 2
How can the South ever be stable when Alger lets the madness continue?

Sahel : Iyad Ag Ghaly, l’insaisissable ennemi public n°1 – JeuneAfrique.com

I doubt Iyad ag Ghali is relaxing comfortably anywhere. If the French special forces knew where he was they would go after him wherever he was and Algeria wouldn't say a word...assuming Algeria didn't get him first. They have been pretty effective in removing terrorists since the late 1990's.

Le Sud
 

Priffe, you ask what is surely a rhetorical question "How can the South ever be stable when Alger lets the madness continue?" A question which I am sure you will agree, many will have asked since April 2003 - an important datum for this region.

The Tlemcen Mafia run a kleptocratic business based upon hydrocarbons and other natural resources with no need for tourism or evolved democracy. There is a less rhetorical question with which I know you are familiar which is why there should be more leniency in Djanet? This is likely closer to the current bearded baddies - possibly holed up just next door in the Acacus of Libya.

Personally, I tend to subscribe to the hypotheses of Keenan et al; that it suits Algiers to have some instability and that they fine-tune this from time to time. Enough trouble further south and the Red Zone is relaxed. If peace breaks out in Azawad - don't hold your breath - a new El Para, MBM, or Abou Zeid will surely emerge and reach for the Cemtex and Kalashnikovs. And so we go around.

The South, the Sahara, like all Africa and indeed the populated world is a game of musical chairs. Business has to go somewhere; if unrest breaks out in A, the trade will go to B, and terrorists to C. Pass the parcel!

I also firmly believe - although some will scoff and call it imaginative at best - that since the N1 & Reggane routes were closed, and all the traffic went to the Atlantic, Bouteflika has still wanted a route to the Atlantic himself. And that this is far more important than any trade down to Kano, Logos, Ouga' etc. Hence the recent announcement regarding the Bir Mogrein route. Far easier to get the Chinese to upgrade a railway than build a new one, and "voila" minerals from Tanezrouft, Hoggar, and Tademait can quickly be on their way to China, America, etc. C'est facile comme ca ;)

I am thankful I have visited Le Grande Sud as many times as I have and would always encourage others to visit, especially Djabbaren & Sefar, Tadrart, or Ahnet. But there are so many wonderful places in the Sahara, and indeed in Algeria, who knows how much wonderful Rock Art is yet to be discovered and catalogued in Mauritania, for example, where independent travel is currently easier? Who will be the new Lhotse of the C21st?

Sun is shining, no rain in Oxford, time to work on my Troopy! :)
Salaam
Budric / Zoubir

Algerian Atlantic
 

The Algerian Atlantic option continues to ratchet around as the towns of Tindouf and Bir Moghrein (Oumghrein) sign a twinning agreement, alhamdulillah. Where next; Atar & Bechar, Nouadibhou & Oran? ;)

Accord de jumelage entre Tindouf (Algerie ) et Bir Oumghrein ( Mauritanie) /photos

Is your suggestion that the Djanet region is being left comparatively open so as to invite trouble, almost deliberately, so that then becomes the scene of the next crack down (and another area becomes the more relaxed zone)?

Does the Algerian government really gain much from that?? Has there been any sign of trouble brewing in that area? Is it not plausible that it is simply an easier area to seal and secure for the military? That said, I was a little perplexed by a map showing a bulge of 'secure' area in the far south east, where open desert appears to stretch down over the border into Niger with no obstructions.

Wolfman,

Pure conjecture on my part but this is the way of the world, not just Africa, Sahara, Algeria or in this case the Wilaya of Illizi but baksheesh is what makes the world go around.

So, a lot easier to police if the police - police, gendarmerie, military, & DRS - are already there collecting their taxes/compensation/bribes from the traffickers on the Libya - Mali run down the Algeria - Niger border. This is a potential cross-roads except on the other axis - Djanet - Djado, Niger there is no traffic as the Djado route has been closed for ages.

Also since travel for normal souls would be difficult either NE to Ghat & Acacus, Libya or SE Djado, Niger - a lot of nothing for days, or SW down the said border, it is in effect for tourists and their guides a cul-de-sac, and even easier to police.

Finally, it may be the case, that having at least one tourist option available in the Algerian Sahara at least deflects any criticism from would-be tourists, not only Westerners and foreigners but also internal Algerians, who you will find visiting, and indeed driving down to the region.

Again - big caveat - just my conjecture, others may disagree, Keenan probably would not. I have visited Djanet twice, Tam' twice, Algeria three times, the Sahara eight times, Africa about a dozen times, and have taken and continue to take an interest in the security of the Maghreb, Shara, and Sahel since April 2003, as I say, an important datum.

My suggestion for you is simple and twofold: if you wish to visit Algeria in particular give your self more time, it is worthwhile, beautiful, diverse, fascinating country and the same can be said for the peoples. Time wil help with the research and bureacracy. If you wish to self-drive the Sahara in particular give yourself the option of Mauritania as you will need less time for research and administration and far less chance of hiccups or hassle. I am sure there are many others on this site who will have travelled far more, and far more recently in RIM than DZ, certainly self-driving.

If you particularly want to see rock art then I am sorry, so far as I am aware, Tassili N'Ajjer - and it may be that at present you would only be allowed a day trip to Djabbaren as Chris Scott has suggested, and thus miss Sefar - is probably "the greatest art collection in the world of that vintage 2-10,000 years ago" . I think so!

Doubtless there are many on this site who wil be interested to read of your travels and perhaps also your planning and considerations in the meantime.

Good luck and God Bless.

IMO Algerian people from the north do not want to empower Touaregs who run tourist business in the south. Touaregs are prone to seperate and establish Azawad State. Those people have naver been conquered by anyone and will never give up fighting for the land of their fathers.

Hi Tomek, interesting opinion ("imo"); have you been to that region? Have you discussed these issues with these people, Touareg from Algeria, Mali, and Niger? My opinion is different, at least regarding the situation in Wilaya Tamanrasset.

All very interesting. Thank you for taking the time to elaborate and once again for your advice.

It is not yet guaranteed that I'll go this year, but I am still thinking seriously about it. I have been researching for a month or two on and off, and realistically, if I go next year instead, I won't spent more than the same amount of time researching next time round. Additionally, I have been convinced that if I do go, I will have to fly to the South, in which case, there doesn't seem that much to research. It will be a case of successfully (or not) finding a guide/agency to help me do a 4-7 day trip, and beyond that, doesn't seem that much to be researched.

The northern portion I've researched quite well. I would spend a couple of days in Algiers, and then depending on the overall timing of the trip, possibly rent a car if possible for a day or a few days. Visit a couple of other places that interest me, and possibly take a train to Constantine (to avoid driving anywhere near the Tizi Ouzou region).

I can't say Mauritania isn't interesting, particularly with the self-driving, but if self-driving it almost takes more organising, and as I've said before, southern Algeria just seems be more the prime Saharan location. Seems more beautiful and interesting...

Budric,
I admit I have not discussed these issues with Touaregs, but I was in Tadrart last year with guides from Tam and:
1. They have hired an Algerian guy to deal with the gendarmerie on the way south. A Touareg who travelled with him and who was in charge was not in position to negotiate with gendarmerie.
2. Although the situation of Kel Ahhagar and Kel Ajjer living in Algeria is far better than the situation of Tuaregs from Mali and Niger, further restrictions with regard to desert tourism operations just add to "not so happy" climate for providing guided tours for desert aficionados. In consequence unemployment mounts up.
3. I am not saying that Kel Ahhagar will "rise" or separate anytime soon but it seems to me that in long term the whole Kel Tamasheq would be much happier being able to decide for themselves.
4. History shows that the Touaregs are inclined to fight for their independance: 1916-1917, 1962-1964, 1990-1995, 2007-2009, 2012.

Inclined to fight yes, but tuaregs have never been united other than in words. They may like to quote Mano Dayak and listen to Tinariwen, but when it comes to cooperation or the idea of a unified touareg nation, that is something that never existed or is even conceivable as things are. Case in point is the division between the lowly former vassals of Imghad and the nobility of Kel Ifoghas in Mali.
Democratization and open elections lead to the possibility of Imghad and others being elected to power, something that was unacceptable to the former leaders who would not take orders from anyone of lower standing in the community (let alone a bambara from Bamako).
So what used to be territorial disputes between clans in the desert has now expanded also to a lethal inner division.
Kel Tamasheq will never fight as one against the remote governments in Alger, Niamey, Bamako and Tripoli. But fight they will. In Libya and Algeria their loyalty could be bought with oil money, but that now only works in Algeria, for the time being.
https://jamestown.org/program/gatia-...-arab-militia/

As for geography, I understood there was a short cut for the traffickers from Mali going to Libya and vice versa through the SE corner of Algeria, although I have never seen that marked on any kind of map.
Good enough that they would even risk entanglement with the Armée Nationale Populaire.. But after the army established a permanent presence in the Tadrart it is now rare that they would cross that part of Algeria.
It is also possible that Alger will look away from any kind of shady business on its territory if they think it is to their advantage. Which would explain how Iyad Ag Ghaly has been living for years in Tin Zahouaten even as the French have launched four expeditions just to catch him (Alger would feel very uncomfortable with having French armed forces so close by).
http://www.jeuneafrique.com/225445/p...tions-d-alger/

Touaregs have always been divided into clans which were sometimes fighting against each other. Moreover, as you poited out, their societies are based on a kind of feudal system. Therefore a formal union of all Tuaregs is not very likely.

On the other hand clans in the respective countries when pinned down might be able do establish a temporary confederation in order to achieve a particular goal.

Hi All,

Did anybody else get this newsletter through promoting 'RALLYE D’ALGÉRIE: LE SAHARI RALLY':

https://madmimi.com/p/f588fb?fe=1&pa...fd2095b9815dff

David

2016

Well now i just wish I had a competition vehicle...and a support truck.

I see in the last couple of weeks the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs has toned down its travel advice and the formerly OTT red on its Algeria map. But red no longer means red because while the whole Djanet/Tassili region is still enrouged, the small print says: 'Les randonnées dans le désert saharien sont possibles après accord des autorités locales et en restant sur les parcours surveillés par l’armée. L’emploi d’un guide reconnu localement … est fortement recommandés.'

As a result Le Point (and maybe other French operators) are already offering tours to the Tassili/Tadrart region for French nationals.

This news doesn't really change the situation for anyone else.

Thanks,
It seems good news, I think The yellow area would bee easier to travel in.
RR.

For subscribers only

https://www.jeuneafrique.com/mag/679...ud-de-lalgerie

From Pointe-Afrique summing up the current situation

"À l’heure où sont écrites ces quelques lignes, il est nécessaire d’informer nos voyageurs sur la réalité des voyages dans le Sahara algérien.
• La région de Djanet est en effet accessible aux voyageurs ; notamment dans la Tadrart, l’Erg Admer et Essendilène. Sous-entendu, les autorités algériennes délivrent des visas pour ces régions et permettent d’y réaliser des circuits itinérants sous escorte (présente mais discrète). Le plateau des Ajjers est quant à lui inaccessible.
• La région de Tamanrasset (Tassilis du Hoggar, Assekrem, Immidir et Tefedest) – contrairement à ce que laissent entendre certains de nos confrères ; et paradoxalement au fait que le MAE lui ait attribué un coloris plus favorable – n’est pas encore ouverte au tourisme ! Ou pour le dire autrement… les permis de circuler ne sont pour le moment pas encore délivrés et les visas non distribués !
• La région de Timimoun… offre plus de souplesse. Enfin sur le papier. Car s’il est possible de s’y rendre facilement, les circuits ne peuvent se faire que sous escorte. D’autre part, il est interdit de dormir en bivouac en dehors de Timimoun. Difficile dans ces conditions de proposer nos circuits itinérants habituels ! Nous attendons donc un retour «à la normale» avant de publier nos circuits dans la zone ! Il est hors de question pour nous de «brader» notre retour.

Pour résumer ; le désert algérien n’est accessible qu’à Djanet, dans un périmètre restreint.
Nous nous consolons par le fait que les choses semblent vouloir « bouger » ; nos amis algériens nous promettent d’autres ouvertures courant 2019."

The summary is not quite accurate, and appears to paint a bleaker picture than the reality. Pretty much all of the Illzi wilaya south of Illizi till Djanet, west till Tamadjert, and East on the plateau till the Imirhou - Essendilene line, plus the Tadrart and its approaches are open for visitors along the motorable roads & pistes, plus for treks within this area.

A recent documentary about Djanet from the Algerian Television (in french)

A small visit of Djanet surroundings by a local touareg (in standard Arabic and Algerian)
Nice to see locals doing quality videos like this one.

New documentary about Tamanrasset :

A tour agency just emailed saying the Tefedest and Immidir regions are open.

Dont know if that means transits between Tam and Illizi wilaya are permitted.

Just hoping!

RR.

The Tuareg Rally started yesterday in Bechar.
Tuareg Rally official page
Details about the Tuareg Rally
Tuareg Rally facebook

First day details :

:scooter:

Day 5 of the Touareg Rally 2019

Account of our last trip now online:
Tadrart and Tassili N'Ajjer, Algeria - November 2018


http://fjexpeditions.com/expeditions...li18/P5538.jpg

Hello everybody,

in case I'm going ot able to get my VISA i should be leaving for Algeria the next week.

Does anybody have any fresh information about the situation down there ?

Thanks!

What kind of information do you want to have ?
If you are afraid of the demonstrations, avoid them, they are usually organized on Friday.

Which regions are open for tourism ?

Which roads ?

After this post:

Is there anything new ?

I'm travelling alone with my motorcycle and I'm trying to make a sort of a plan.

Thanks!

As far as I know they are not.
That info I was given may have been premature, according to other agencies.

You do realise you will need a guide/escort from border to border @€100/day. It's not like Morocco.

I'm trying to understand which roads I can follow without an escort.

You will need a guide/escort from border to border.
Like North Korea or Iran for some.
A few have slipped through over the years.
Speaking French will help talk your way in.

https://sahara-overland.com/algeria-3/

Sorry, Chris, but in Iran you don't need any guide nor escort.
I've been there with my car in 2011,2015,2018 without any problem.

May be it dépends your nationality (American?).
RR.

:offtopic:
US, UK and Australian tourists can only travel around in Iran with an escort, does not apply to other natonalities.

Who knew
 

It's all systems go according to the British Backpacker Society:

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/article...re-destination

I hope somebody has told the Algerian consulate in London! :wink3:

Hoping to do a trip around Djanet in December, 4x4s and bikes...

Anyone else going to be around?

Just in case anyone reads this it is wrong. It is US, UK and Canadians who require a guide.

This is the Algerian Sahara Thread - not sure what Iran is doing here?

Sam, there was a bit of a thread drift a two years ago, and with so little happening it did not become buried by newer posts.

I don't know if any of you have seen this video it dates back to march 2020 so just before the coronavirus travel restrictions.

This is a frenchman who wanted to travel from Algeria to Mauritania.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zd6bI_rxYM

He claims that the customs told him that he can go to Mauritania but without external fuel tanks, which in this case is total nonsense since there isn't any gas station along the way in Mauritania for a very long distance.

They also seized his drone and then asked the french consul to give them more detailed information about this citizen.
Later on the returned the drone.
The frenchman decided to go back to oran and from there to europe.

Therefore, it seems that the border is open, but there are restrictions.

Well spotted. Interesting that he too managed to get across the north from Tunisia without escorts, like Gerbert. Sets a good precedent.

I wouldn't be surprised if the jerrican rule was an arbitrary punishment plucked out of the air on him for having been caught/got away with a drone. Clearly, the 550km (he says 400) from Tindouf to Bir Mogrein is a long way with a dodgy fuel pump...
Normally it's the places you arrive at (in my experience: Tunisia, Italy, RIM, France) with cheap fuel from the previous that get arsey about extra fuel.

Either way, they may have done him a favour. Didn't catch the exact date but, assuming he was coming back up the coast via WS, the RIM border closed on March 16th and he or the car would have been stuck in RIM (or Mk soon after), for the duration.

Now I felt an urge to go back to Algeria before I die

I hitchhiked across the Tabarka - El Kala border last year and for a month in Algeria without a problem. Friendly border officials. But maybe its different when you bring your own car

Yes, vehicles complicate things, but also depends on nationality.
Easier to get the visa for some than others – and Brits are not high on this list last time I heard/tried.
Plus once you get down to a certain latitude (In Salah, more or less?), guide-escorts become mandatory.

Right now I am told the border are closed, though that will change of course.

He does pickup a police escort – sometime south of Taghit and after his breakdown – but he doesn't indicate where it started.

I watched the recordings of this French guy on Youtube. He entered at the Taleb Larbi border, and was obliged to arrange an escort by a tourist agency. One of the customs officers helped him and called an agency, that sent a representative within a couple of hours. In the next big town the French guy was set free by his escort. He moved around freely in the north for about three weeks. Visited Cap Carbon, an amazing seaside spot near Bejaia, amongst others. When heading south to Mauritania his escort started near Taghit, like ours.

I wonder how being 'set free' by his agency escort works.
Is there no need, but one was it forced on him for a quick buck?
And if there is a need, how come he was let go?

The escort 'near Taghit' is Abadla, no?
A military one to Tindouf.
To be expected and not quite the same thing.

When you go with escort from Taleb Larbi, do you need a written contract with an agency? How formal are they at the border?
We were told we actually did need a guide only after we arrived at Illizi (2009).
Chief of police made arrangement with a touareg who somehow disappeared, and we were left to find one ourselves. No written contract.

Always planning the next trip to Algeria. Thinking the Frenchie may have paid tge guide off.
Thinking driving around leisurely can be done in the north without a problem. Perhaps also southward if patient and with time to spare (within visa limits).

I think this border simply wants you to have a guide, like often happens when you arrive in the port of Alger. I do not know the details, but it's not about money, I think. Just rules that are not always clear or applied evenly

It is a mystery isn't it, just like Algeria as a whole.
Who is really running the show? What are the rules?
No transparency. Everything opaque.

I think in many of these places officials are scared to use their initiative for fear of being sent to the salines.
And Taleb is near the Tebessa region where what's left of Algeria's jihadists hide out.
The thing is, Brits can't even get the visa without an agency invite (CdH).
On tours that works OK, but not for all independent travellers.
As we are always headed south where the escort rules are sticter, it's not a huge problem.
As I understand it, no escorts needed in the line north of Hassi M, In Salah, Adrar (which is handy for getting to the Tindouf route), but it's all about getting in, and then getting past certain checkpoints.
I have always thought there's a lot more going on in Alg that we never know about or understand. A dance of competing pouvoirs trying to maintain their hegemony. In most similar places it's the army or a dictator running the show.

I am struggling to find or get a reply from agencies in the Taghit - In Salah region (Gourara, Tidikelt). Anyone got any ideas?

This is all useful info on this thread, thanks all.

The Letter of Invitation situation sounds similar to parts of Central Asia a while back. In the case of the latter it was unavoidable for some countries, though you didn't need to be booked on a tour.

Is anyone aware of an agency who will provide LOIs/CdH's that are sufficient to get an Algerian visa on a GB passport, but don't require you to be part of a group tour for the duration?

Ed

I doubt any agency will do that because if you get caught in the wrong area or at an arsey gendarmerie checkpoint, agency gets in trouble (afaiu).
It's not like the old CA or Russian LOI 'scam', more to track you should you get kidnapped (a threat in Alg at one time, and probably still in places).

And it's not about joining a tour group, like say Iran, it's about having an escort like China. Your group can be 1.

Others have tried using hotels for the CdH (even cancelling after confirmation to get a refund). Easier if you fly in, less so at the usual Oran, Algiers or Taleb vehicle entry points.

Hotel booking may be worth a shot at the London embassy as they may have forgotten the tourist rules by now. I was going to try it as a test last year.

• Some need an agency (not hotel) CdH to get the visa.
• All need to get clear of O, A or T without being asked: where is your escort?

Finally a journalistic breakthrough in investigating the Algerian power structure.
Algeria: Meet the real strongman: And he is not president | The North Africa Journal
Paris based Algeriepart, started by Abdou Semmar in 2017. For those interested.
https://www.algeriepartplus.com/reve...aid-chengriha/

Why is it a mystery ?
Whenever there is a high risk there is a mandatory escort. Very simple and nothing to do with bribes.

Tunisia have terrorist groups near the border of Algeria (Chaambi mountain).
The same applies with the western part of Algeria where there is an ongoing war between the Polisario front and morocco.

South and East its even worse with Libya, Mali and Niger.

Basically anything above Ghardaia and far from the borders is fine.

Regarding Abdou Semmar, I was reading his articles since Algerie-focus website.
His "investigations" do not bring anything new to the table.
He is probably being paid by moroccan secret services ( I have nothing to back my claim with but from what he says, it becomes very clear)

Chengriha is not someone who likes power, he definitely hates morocco, he was in charge of the third military region (Bechar and Tindouf provinces), he has a lot of experience and wouldn't hesitate start a war with Morocco in order to destroy it.

Tebboune has a lot of power because he is the president and can remove Chengriha anytime.
Moreover, Chengriha is not that powerful within the army itself, he is starting to grow in power but he is nowhere near Gaid Salah in his prime for instance.
And even Gaid Salah in his time was not that powerful, Hamel, the head of Police was a serious threat for Bouteflika and Gaid Salah but he was put in jail after the cocaine affair in oran port.
This affair itself shows you how power was split, basically, you had police forces who were fighting against gendarmerie to get first to the port in order to seize the 701 kg of Cocaine.
Gendarmerie came first, Hamel was finished.

Why because in order to have the military with you, you need the head of intelligence, marine, DCSA, Police (which grew a lot in power) ... etc.

Boutflika was smart enough to know how to negociate with some military figures in order to eliminate the other ones and that is how he stayed in power.

He first got rid of Lamari by making an alliance with Toufik who was the head of intelligence while Lamari, Nezzar and Bellkhir were backing Benflis.

Algeria is really complicated and doesn't have a single point of failure like so many other countries (Gaddafi/Libya, Saddam/Irak... etc), if someone goes that doesn't change the rules, people change, the system stays the same, but no one knows who is in charge because power is not in the hands of a few people.

One would expect that comment from an Algerian :)
But Semmar is plenty anti-moroccan, from his writings.

Exactly.

And what protection does one get from a tourist agency escort, if that is what you mean?
Or occasional gendarmerie escorts, who only ever do so on highways?
No tourist in Alg was ever kidnapped off a highway.

At least in the Gilf they threw in a soldier! (Albeit dressed like a rapper with no comms or arms or any idea what was going on, but enjoying a holiday ;-)

Maybe not so bad now, but I'd feel far more nervous and conspicuous in parts of Kabylia than in the middle of the Immidir plateau, as unescorted Herve G found to his cost.

Alger goverment protect only gas fields and protect citizens from contact with us.

As Chris said gandarmerie escort is only on the highways and gandarmerie always tried to minimalize our contact with people.

Everything changed in south. Escort finished in Djaned and we could spend our time everywhere alone or with guide and we were even on the border with Libia.

As above it is only oil bussines and no infuence on local people.

Protect us from the people....had a discussion with the chief of police in Illizi, and he said just that - escort needed to protect us from "gamins". I retorted we have gamins in Europe too, but no escort.
Kabylia, yes but - Looking back, I think the eeriest place we passed in Algeria was Bir Al Ater, going down from Tebessah (which was eerie enough) to Oued. Only stopped for a coffee. Border town, sort of.

Well, there is some news today (Article in Arabic):
https://www.afrigatenews.net/article...4%D8%A7%D8%AA/

This is a petition signed by some moroccans and algerians , they want the border to be open... guess what ? Abdou Semmar is one of them.

Once again, this only reinforces the fact that Abdou Semmar is working for moroccan services.

I was talking about gendarmerie escort not tourist agencies.
Regarding why one would need a tourist agency, I really believe that the goal is to track your movements, since agencies will send information about their foreign customers to the authorities.

Now regarding Kabylia which I know very well, I feel way safer there than in a remote place in Tassili n'Ajjer. Obviously there are some parts of the country which are dangerous but the locals know where NOT TO GO.

Gourdel was accompagnied by french-algerians who do not have any idea about the place they were going to, they didn't ask the authorities for information and basically, these french algerians were responsible for his death.

Why wouldn't everyone want the border to open in the long term? Except for sinister reasons.

I would say those responsible for Gourdel's death were those who chopped his head off.

If you'll have a chance to go back to Algeria, ask any Algerian if he is willing to see the borders open with Morocco.
Easily 70% of the population is against it for many reasons (drugs, prostitution, bad propaganda ... etc).
The final nail in the coffin was the new deal with Israel, that is definitely a point of no return for the vast majority of Algerians, and I really doubt that the borders will ever be open.

As of Gourdel's death, if you invite some friends, would you take the risk to go to a dark dangerous street or a dodgy place and not be guilty if something bad happens ?

You hit the nail on the head. It is all about local knowledge and experience. I fell most comfortable in the remoter parts of the Tassili, because I know that area very well, and I go there with the right local people.

Hidden Algeria: The Sahara doc
 

https://www.netflix.com/title/81471124

Only skimmed it so far but looks pretty good; some familiar places all the way down to Tadrart and the Hoggar.

(Also of interest The Moors: https://www.netflix.com/watch/81466297 - not watched yet)

Great spot!

French MEAE ('FCO') loosens the reins a bit
https://topdestinationsalgerie.com/l...stes-francais/

Advice maps after and before below.

(UK FCO meantime and for years has show Alg wide open apart from a thin border band: https://sahara-overland.com/algeria-3/

@Priffe,
This is an irrefutable evidence that Semmar works for morocco, this audio was leaked by intelligence services
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oy8faIN8Fn8

So now, you can't say that I was wrong ... BTW, he was sentenced to death by algerian court for revealing secret information about the state-owned oil company Sonatrach.

Algeria lightning up?
 

News from Le Pointe

Point-Afrique reconnects with its first love: the Great South of Algeria!

We are focusing all our forces on Algeria this winter. The obvious reason for this choice is based on 2 factors:

1/ Political evolution in Algeria
Without wishing to interfere in Algeria's internal politics, we have observed a real change in social life and a new determination to open up to the outside world. The hunt for corruption is becoming a reality. Algeria is called to become the link between Africa and Europe.

2/ Political developments in France
France's recent rapprochement with Algeria is probably linked to our energy needs, but this is not the only cause!

The political climate in Algeria and the will of the new authorities are the catalysts for this state of affairs. On October 12, 2022, the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs changed the Djanet area from red to orange on the Quai d'Orsay map...and soon to yellow for the end of the year.....

Of course this really just covers Tassili fly-ins. Off highway overlanding (or anything else) outside the Illizi wilaya still seems to be proscribed.