New Defender fuel tank?
 

Everything is coming out, so thinking I might replace the fuel tank.

Are there any better options other than the genuine LR one?

Stainless steel or plastic options?

(already have a Ali back wing fitted along with it)

Plastic, like your ally radiators, would be hard to fix properly on the road, and fitting a td5 one will need a lot of chassis mods and wiring mods for negligible benefit. A stainless one in standard design for your age of vehicle would be nice for longevity I guess. Safarigard make a nice extended range tank, but hell they're expensive!
Sounds like old faithful's getting a birthday?
Simon.

+ 1 for plastic. What landy do you have?

200 tdi defender.

I think its best to stick with 'normal' as I can't see any clear advantage with changing other than plastic doesn't rust....

Current one is fine, but a lot of rust around that area due to being parked for 5 months next to the Indian Ocean (I have a beach bum landy) so probably a good idea to change and then paint and waxoil.

Well, annoyingly it seems genuine LR Defender tanks are now £400++ instead of £180 when I last bought one ;-(

Any suggestions where to get a genuine one cheaply? (200 tdi defender, so can't use plastic)

Or next best suggestions - custom made stainless steel for a similar price...

You could use a Td5 plastic tank, although it would need a /bit/ of fiddling to get it to fit.

When I built my 110, it had the brackets for a metal tank, and I fitted the plastic into it. You'll need to chop off the bracket on the crossmember (that the A frame bolts to), it's the one that one end of the tank locates on to.

Then on the rear cross member, you'll need to drill two large (enough to fit a 13mm socket and extension into) holes, about 3/4" diameter, on the outer face, then on the inner face you'll need a smaller hole for the studs on the tank support cradle to fit into. Trouble is, a non Td5 crossmember isn't flat on the inside, so you'll have to weld on a piece of thin plate to give the cradle something to butt up against.

On the A frame crossmember, the one you just cut the bracket off of, you need to fit a couple of M8 nutserts for the "other" end of the tank cradle.

Once you've done that, and offered up the tank, you need a couple of brackets for the top strap to bolt onto, this stops the tank from bouncing up and down (funnily enough, Td5/puma 90's don't have this, and the tank more or less touches the bottom of the rear tub, but not so on 110's)

I've got a load of pictures here from when I built the vehicle, I can email them over to you if you want.

On the top of the tank you'll remove the electric pump, and you can get a late 300Tdi pickup pipe to fit the plastic tank (as the last of the 300's, and the RoW Td5-spec 300's had them)

All in all, quote a faff about. OK if you had the vehicle stripped down in the first place, but a PITA to just "do" for the sake of it I reckon. better to get allisport to TIG up a HD ali one.

Gen.?
 

Hi, why does it have to be a genuine tank?

I've had a bearmach tank on my 90 many years it came galvanized all I did was make sure i had plenty of waxoil between the base & stone guard.

I use genuine for seals etc. but how wrong could they get a tank.

regards

Gren