Defender dash rattle
 

Any suggestions how to stop or reduce the rattle of a Defender dash over corrugations etc? Rubber in-between everything?

I'm replacing the bulkhead so easy to do everything at once...

You could get some rubber foam strip, that is sticky back and put in the joints etc. for joints that you are not likely to have to remove a drop of loctite on the screws would prevent them becoming louse.

Make sure all the cables are secured properly with p-clips and tywraps. Put rubber u edging over sharp edges to prevent cables chaffing.

Just a few thoughts

Dan

Thanks mate.

Any suggestions for buying these things you suggest? What is rubber u edging?

Foam strip doesn't sound like it would like being rubbed between plastic bits that are vibrating?

I would imagine a decent auto factors in the Uk would do them. I got my last edging from fleabay.

The foam stuff I thinking of is fairly dense rubber, so should be fine in the joints. Obviously many of these things depend on what you can get hold of.

Search Rubber u edging on eBay. You can find so e with metal reinforcing in it which is very tough. I used in on my boxes in the boot to stop the l I'd rattling and provide a friction close.

Dan

It's a Defender so what's a rattle or two :D
They go with the vehicle and wouldn't change ours.

They shouldnt rattle , unless something is loose , ie not fitted properly . You will get a degree of vibration over corrugations, but getting the right ,load , suspension setup and tyre pressures should help minimise , also speed of travel can help minimise as long as you feel confident to drive the vehicle at the requisite speed, and can judge if dangerous in conditions HTSH

Sorry, but I find the whole line of 'its a Land Rover' type of answer really tedious. If I wanted to live with it I wouldn't have posted a question asking how to stop it.

On a long day of corrugations in 40 degree heat the rattle can be a bit draining, but I also worry about movement, whats rubbing against what wire. Also at start up, especially when cold it sounds like Captain Caveman is in there.

In normal driving its generally fine.

How about water pipe lagging synthetic foam rubber? It's very easy to cut to shape, really tough, pre shaped to wrap around 15mm pipe (bundled wires) and best of all cheap as chips:thumbup1:

If you have the opportunity with the whole dash out, it is an excellent time to protect wiring and fix any snags you have. I tend to run things in conduit. It makes it really easy to add wires later if you need to.

While you have the dash out. Make sure that the wiper motor and mechanism are in good condition. The drive and the spindle mechanisms do tend to wear. Mine need doing sometime soon.

Dan

Hi
If your pulling the dash out, think about extra storage for things like CB radios etc. The Iron Goat Dash is very good and looks genuine and not too 'gucci' unlike some bling on the market, so less likely to attract attention. Things like Bison Cable grips / P Clips are good for pulling wiring together, remember to mark and label using electrical tape as you go for easy identification later on (as your doing the hard work now). Is the bulkhead from Ashtree Land Rovers (Galv!!!!). Wurth Silicone tapes good, as has a foam inner and good for sound reduction.
However, mike Mike says, it is a Defender, your never going to loose all it 'character' like the rattling.
Take photos as your dismantle as it will help when you put it back together again! Keep all the bolts in different boxes and mark them up, for easy replacement.
Label Electrical connections
Dinitrol the Bulkhead even if its Galv, which help protect your investment!
We more than happy give any advice or if you need some Microcat Diagrams can be sent over by email, just give us a call.
Happy to help
Good Luck!

Hi, you could try covering the edges of the dash panels with "rubber edging trim" plenty on Ebay in different sizes. e.g. RUBBER EDGE EDGING TRIM 2MM - 3MM U-CHANNEL CLASSIC CAR | eBay
It is U shaped and most often used as a grommet for edging holes to stop cables chaffing, I've used it frequently to give a clean edge to alloy panels.

you could also use self adhesive foam sheet to stop the panels vibrating & a small square of sticky foam between the panels and the self tapping screws help prevent the panels rubbing and the self tapping screws loosening due to vibration.
self adhesive closed cell foam sheets, sound proofing size 2mtr x 500mm x 3mm | eBay

There are relays behind the dash I know these can rattle as I've seen the chafe marks in the paint after I stripped my bulkhead, this was also solved by putting some sticky foam on the panel behind the relays then screwing the relay mount back on.

you could also check that the wiring loom connectors in the dash are not hitting anything, check the connectors for wear marks you could wrap the connectors in thin foam sheet, many modern cars have the wiring loom and connector protected with foam loom sleeves.

regards all
Gren

Remove the old biros that have dropped down twixt screen and dash, and take out the walking stick behind the seatdoh I didn't charge my customer for that job!
Realistically though, the dash shouldn't rattle unless it is loose somewhere. You could maybe stick self adhesive neoprene strip along one side of any mating surfaces which might take up any "slack"
Simon.

Are you going to HUBB UK? BE happy to have a listen and a look?

Or is it in pieces already?

Mike here Margaret normally posts.
The Defender remark was tongue in cheek.
What do you mean "normal driving?"
If corrugations bother you then I suggest you look at how you've loaded the vehicle, spring rates and most importantly tyre pressures then drive to the corrugations.
I run as low as 22psi on those things.
I too would be prepared to listen at the HUBB but it seems you have the bulkhead in bits.

MIKE

Good point ref suspension, be amazed what flagging turrets, retaining plates, springs and of course buggered shocks can do over bumps!
Can you take a wheel arch pic? You can glean a lot from a bit of underbody and wheel arch exposure.