Info on KTM 620 Adventure
 

I picked this up the other day:innocent:

Anyone have any info on them, made before the 640 but with the grey engine but the early 640 had the black engine and then the later ones had the grey one fitted?!?!

It is not like the 640 but more like its own bike as quit a few differences

Called a KTM UK dealer and they said they don't know much about them and they were not sold in the UK, HPI check shows it is a import

anyone know about this bike?

Apparently it is very rare in the UK they said, i have never seen another one for sale here.........

info
 

hi have you seen this KTM 620 LC4 Adventure hope this helps steve

Thanks for into, yes saw this but trying to see if anyone else had owned one on here, i know no one eles in the UK on other forums........

Also nice Orange side case's on that link..........:innocent:

These bikes were sold in Switzerland. The silencer was lower and kept below the line of the panniers. The bike came with the first generation Touratech Zega Boxes. From what i remember, the engine was quite rough. Also some engines had problems with faulty aluminium parts which led to loss of oil through hair cracks in those parts. But nothing which couldn't be fixed. Overall, the 640 engine was better and smoother.

Claudio


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Cheers for the info when i give it a strip and clean i will have a good look over it. Also will change the clutch shaft bearing as heard these are common parts to fail

Hi Weslly,

This bike is pretty much the same as the 640, only the crankshaft had a 2mm shorter stroke and the cylinder head a 1mm shallower combustion well.. Most parts will interchange between the older and newer models... I built a 640 from parts that I scavenged up and some parts I put in the engine were from the 620s as outlined in this thread:
New 640 Build from the Ground up - ADVrider

After 02 the 640 had its biggest update, going to the hi flo head and juice clutch



620 info look into this thread:
KTM 620 Adventure E/GS Adventure History - ADVrider

And look in here for lots of info on the LC 4 series:KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index - ADVrider

Thanks for the info, i was looking at your build thread yesterday after a Google search, very impressive.

I built a KDX200E frame up this year which was fun sourcing parts of ebay and fixing it, had to grind and weld the frame to fix some parts which was good learning also and understanding the basics with a 2 smoke:thumbup1:

Planing a engine strip on 4T bike which needs some TLC and to learn how it all works.

Yes it is running fine, did around 100 miles on green lanes with no issues so far so good. Needs a few little fixes but nothing major

Good to know all parts are same as the 640.

Yes i noticed the later models had the high flow head, much difference in ride?

The high flo engines as delivered are not much different in power than the older ones... The difference is that with the larger valves you can safely modify the engine to produce more power than available on the older engines..
With my bikes I am mainly focused on longevity and not on chasing HP, as the bike puts out more than enough power for my needs.. The best thing to do if you have a restrictive stainless steel supertrapp muffler or similar on the bike is to toss it in favor of something that flows a little better.. With the stock restrictive pipe in place the heat is not allowed to exit the combustion chamber as fast resulting a hotter running top end which contributes to shorter valve life among other things.. I am running the SXC can on both of my bikes and it never gets finger burning hot like the old can did..

You likely have a low slung pipe on your bike that probably has a better flow rate than the newer EPA rated OEM stuff so you may be ok..

My main bike now has 190,000+ km on it and is running strong... For where I live and ride this is the perfect bike even though it is now coming on 8 yrs of being out of production...

Re 620 Adventure
 

Hi, i have worked on a few of these back in the day. As has been previously mentioned, they are virtually identical to the 640 model with the obvious exception of the exhaust system. Your bike (assuming its the one pictured) has been fitted with an after market 2 into 1 silencer, replacing the original 2 into 1 into 2 setup. It appears to be made by FP. You should check that the jetting on the Dellorto phm40( not the mikuni bst) has been altered to suit this. I would also repack the silencer with high quality packing unless you know for sure that this has already been done recently. All engine issues for lc4s may apply and are well documented with the possible exception of the fact that a number of engines from this period were fitted with RHP main bearings which could spin on the crank, causing its demise, in which case you could rebuild the engine with a 78mm stroke crank(640) providing you fit 2 0.7mm base gaskets instead of the original 0.5mm. Interestingly ( if your a spotter like me) this is the original grey engine but if you compare you'll find its a slightly darker grey than the later versions and better quality finish. Great bike, i would own one if i could.

Well i was just about to use it on a small 2 week trip, oil was still clean but decided the hour before i was to leave to do a oil & filter change.

Bottom sump magnetic filter had a 20mm long metal strip along with loads of small metal parts, paper filter was also full of metal dust in each fold

Took it to a local mechanic and he confirmed it is parts of a bearing housing.

Full engine strip begins:thumbdown:


Such is life...............

I would recommend that you take your engine to someone with experience with lc4s or ktm 4st singles. Crankshaft main bearing journals must be shimmed to ensure correct end float and alignment, this can only be done correctly by someone with the special tools for removal and replacemant of the crank side journals. You should also replace the scavenge pump as unfortunately these pick up unfiltered oil! so are likely to be damaged in the event of a bearing failure. Whilst i appreciate this is an unwanted event, try to look at it as an opportunity to upgrade your engine as well as overhauling it. If your unfamiliar with lc4s make sure to follow the correct procedure for oil filling as this is a common reason for bearing failures! Good luck.

I have got a great mechanic who knows these bikes well, whilst there will change any old looking parts or cheap parts like cam chain ect ect..... full engine overall.

Think your right and whilst there put a FCR41MX on it as i have one laying in the shed.

Not sure what KTM was thinking when they designed the way the oil has to be changed?!?!?

I have the original workshop book which came with the bike, there are differences between this and the 640 adv

If your going to fit to fit the fcr you may want to think about converting the choke to cable operation as reaching the pull type plunger knob is a bit of a pain.This can be done using parts from a mikuni bst carb.You will also need to replace the throttle and switch gear.
Also as this is a cable operated clutch, i suggest you replace the actuator shaft and needle bearings 57532015000 and 50332095000 x2. Don't bother with the oem clutch cable but use one from venhill. The ktm part was superseded around 99/2000 to a part which was slightly shorter which was bad news for the adv model and results in early failure, the venhill part is the same length as the original and has an additional in line adjuster. Remember to fit two of these and cable tie together so that you can replace without the need to remove the tank etc. The actuator shaft bearings dry out quite quickly and cause the shaft to wear, creating a heavy pull and more stress on the cable. The new parts and a well lubed cable will give you a pull which is lighter than the hydraulic version but just as smooth. If your planning on heavy sand work i suggest you fit the rallye clutch springs 58532080000 and washers 51006097000. All the best, p s stop me if i'm becoming too nerdy!

Matty and links you know of for a workshop manuals, you seem the forum expert on this bike:thumbup1:

All links i found have been pulled

Sorry, can't help with workshop manual as mine are genuine ktm cd and hard copy, oh and mostly in my head! If anyone knows how to get the contents of a ktm cd onto the web id be happy to try though i suspect it would infringe a number of copyright laws. Purchasing a genuine ktm cd isn't that expensive, especially if you view it as an investment in your bike.

Matty the bike engine is now fully stripped down, before i rebuild it as you seem the expert on here what would you replace whilst i am there for a 1997 engine. all parts look in great condition.

I have already got a new cam chain and piston rings for starters

Hi, well since the bike is now 18yrs old and you probably don't have a full service history then its safest to assume that nothing has been replaced recently.
This means you should replace all the seals including and especially the valve guide oil seals as these will have gone hard and will start leaking. Personally i would replace all the bearings, particularly since you should upgrade the mains anyway to the latest skf explorer series ( nj306c3 and nj207ecpc3) and the gearbox intermediate bearing(the one behind the clutch) to the roller race bearing from the rallye model(58533025000). Fyi all the bearings can be sourced from a bearing supplier except the one for the gearbox intermediate shaft as this is a ktm specific part.When you get the silicone 'o'ring for the output shaft spacer (behind the sprocket 0770250021), buy a handful of these as these are often damaged when replacing sprockets, this then causes a leak which people assume is the seal but isn't. Because yours is the earlier model your sprocket is retained with a bolt and diaphragm spring washer (59033034044). This part number buys you both items for the price of the washer and the bolt comes pre locktighted, carry a spare! If you can spare the expense, i would recommend upgrading the clutch basket, primary gear and balancer to those from an 03-07 engine. These parts are a different primary drive ratio and speed up the input shaft and so reduce the torque loading on the clutch and so reduce the risk of slipping. Because of the high price of new parts these can be obtained 'used' via the usual channels. You may also wish to replace the bottom oil filter cover with one from a 2001 onwards model. This is because yours uses an 'o' ring which is a twat to fit and the later item uses a reusable gasket which is much easier to fit when changing filters.( gasket 58530041000). You must inspect the stator and rotor, first generation e start models ('96) were fitted with rotors with unshrouded magnets which came off and caused carnage! Make sure your rotor has shrouded magnets and inspect the stator for signs of any previous mishaps! I mention this because engines for early '97 bike were built in '96 and given its age there is always the chance that someone may have fitted a used item from a '96 model if there has been a reason to replace before. Check starter mech gears for damage as these can lose teeth if some potato head starts cranking on the throttle while the e start is engaged. Opening the throttle while starting a big single is likely to induce a backfire, the sudden reversal of engine rotation against the efforts of the starter will result in damage to the teeth and the sprag clutch. The sprag clutch i would replace if i were you. If the intermediate gears show signs of abuse you can replace with later model items('98 on) but as these are a slightly different ratio you must replace all.( again used is fine if in good condition). Use genuine gaskets, they're better quality than any aftermarket ones I've seen and often reusable which is good news if you have to make an impromptu repair. These items plus the others I've previously mentioned cover the bulk of it, oh and don't forget to replace the inlet rocker arm roller as they are prone to fail. Hope this helps and hasn't put you off. I know it sounds a bit bad but to fair it is 18yrs old so exercising diligence is the name of the game.

Great Info Matty, well i best do it right whilst i am there as i plan to keep this one for awhile and might do a trip on it

I take it you was a KTM mechanic?

I also got hold of a set of 660 Rally side tanks (like the ones on the photo below) and support bars, as the exhaust is low i think they should fit straight on with not much issue and will also be great place for the rear bags to rest when strapped up

Hi the rallye subframe is slightly different although the one for your particular model is the closest to it. You must have it reinforced if your going to use the pannier tanks, partly because of the weight and partly because the tanks are unbaffled so when half full and the fuel and therefor the weight starts to slosh about it will increase the strain on the subframe which when loaded with gear for a trip have been known to fracture(usually behind where you sit). Bear in mind if you use the tanks you won't be able to fit the regular lc4 pannier frames. Oh and remember Loctite is your best friend!

I am insanely jealous! I am running a 625 SXC and would love a set of rally tanks to extend the fuel range! Good luck on your rebuild. I hope you post your progress and a picture of the finished bike with the rally tanks installed.

You can not buy them any more and i was lucky to pick up a set brand new and never used

Also a spare tank and fairing came with the rally tanks :innocent:

The early fairings come in two sections and the screen is bolted to the fairing, i think the screen is better on the older ones as it is either in smoked black or smoked blue plastic so you can see the front wheel when standing.

So my spare tank is blue with blue fairing and smoked blue plastic like the photo above and my current fairing is the standard orange with orange tank.

I will put some photos up here as i progress

Matty i passed the info on to my mechanic and he was really happy with it, thanks alot for your help :thumbup1:

Happy to help. Fyi the spare tank you picked could be a rallye item as well. the rallye tank will be made of colour impregnated polythene based plastic as opposed to the nylon based plastic of the adventure model( which had blue tanks for '98 and '99 only). Be advised you cannot paint poly plastic tanks! Well you can but it won't stay on, even decals will have a limited life span. Look forward to seeing your bike when its finished. M

Yes the fairing, front tank and rear rally tanks were of the 660 Rally.

I am not looking to spray the parts as they are in good condition and i would rather spend the money on fuel and tires :thumbup1:


I also got the 3rd oil cooler the 660 had but wont fit this

If and when you decide to do trip with some rougher going i would recommend you use the rallye tank as they are more durable in the event of a fall. Not quite sure what you mean by the 3rd oil cooler since lc4's don't have any oil cooler fitted though 2000 on 660 rallye were fitted with one. Do you mean the additional oil filter housing? Again 2000 on rallye models were fitted with these but you wouldn't really need to use this. They do have a value if you want to fleabay it.As does the rallye type fairing.

Here is a photo on the 3rd oil filter that was fitted to the rally type bike

i wont fit it as see no need on this bike

Yeah like i said an additional filter housing, although that one(in the pic) is not a factory fitted item.
The filter housing they have used is the old 'bog roll' filter housing, when the factory started using a third filter they used a modified 660smc type housing which accommodated a filter the same type as the secondary filter from the 590 series engines and this was housed up behind the fairing.

While i am at it the lights were very dull on this bike, i came across a KTM Adventure 640 LC4 Enduro 99-2007 HID XENON H1 Headlamp Conversion

KTM Adventure 640 LC4 Enduro 99-2007 HID XENON H1 Headlamp Conversion | eBay


What do you think?

HID are great! I use a 35 watt kit and its over twice as bright as standard
H-4, 55 watt conventional bulb. 4 years on, ballast blew, DDM tuning sent me FREE replacement.

Check out these guys:
HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning

Mine was about $25 USD, compared with $70 for the UK Ebay one shown above.

I use 35 watt version to save meager output on my DR650 ... but if you can afford to run the 55 Watt version, it puts out 4500 lumens ... now THAT is bright!

Life time guarantee. It's all made in China in same factory.

No idea what shipping would be to UK ... but surly not more than the £17 listed in the Ebay ad.

Mine was plug and play, no screwing around running separate power back to battery. Various versions, color temps, Hi-Lo, ect. I run 4500K bulb, it's not too blue. Rarely get flashed.
bier

Here are the rear tanks, some say they are made out of unobtainium :innocent:

So what are the small 5mm wide and deep holes for on the side's?

Thats where you attach your race numbers.Those tanks don't look like they've ever been used! The right hand one even has the protective heat shield on! I know envy is a terrible thing but i am seriously green right now!
During the list of upgrades i posted i did mention fitting the 03 onward clutch etc. Its a while since i'd done one of these and i forgot to mention that the later balancer shaft is slightly different and will not fit into an earlier crankcase. This can be modified quite easily though. The newer shaft is 2.25mm longer and the diameter on the crankcase side is a press fit sizing and needs to brought down to a push fit clearance. You will find the same machined down end of the shaft is slightly longer than the depth of the bearing but this can be shimmed up using this part, 56033030000. Know this all to be correct as I've just finished doing this an hour ago.Regards M