Side Panniers-how much load?
 

Hi All ;

I loaded my side panniers and it came with 14-15 kg each.

Is it too much -normal or can still be loaded?

Thanks,

Good question,
I have mounted zega panniers myself and am wondering how much load i can carry as well...
Especially since i read a thread about broken (sub)frames....
any input welcome !
Gijs

Off the top of my head I can't tell you the max loading. You should have that info with the bike (GVW). You probably don't want to exceed that (though I have). The important thing about the panniers that they will unweight the front end reducing stability. Those old ammo cans may look cool on a KLR but they're heavy! I've opted for soft bags as they themselves weight nothing leaving more capacity for stuff. Also they don't stress the frame any more than a passenger would since the weight is supported by straps on the seat. I've had as much as 60lbs in them, off road and on highway and the bike's handling wasn't any worse than carrying a small passenger.

If carrying much larger loads or suspending the panniers from the frame, look into reinforcing the frame or at very least replaceing the bolts that hold on the subframe with bigger ones.

One thing I learned that tank panniers help balance the load. I try to place some of the heavy items like pots and pans there and strap them on as low as I can. It seems to improve the front end's stability especially at high speeds.

Kurt

My side panniers themself weigh about 4 kg. each. When loaded they are roughly 14kg. I have loaded all the heavy stuff like hand tools etc. to tank bag to avoid uneven distibution of weight between back and front like Kurt pointed out. Tank bag weights about 7 kg.

I estimated this distribution will be sufficient but this saturday i will load the bike and go for a short ride to see the result.

Kurt, was that 60 lbs. for each pannier or sum of both?

That's 60lbs total, about 27 kilos. About where your at with two 14kilo panniers.

Kurt

I loaded the side panniers (15 kg/each, the top case (12 kg) and tank bag (8 kg) and went for a test drive.

* 15 kg is too much. On the corners bike tends to slide. I even had a crash.
* 8 kg tank bag doesnt improve the stability with that much load on the sides.
* The back shock absorber was at level "2" which seemed insufficient.

So as soon as my broken finger heals, i will take some measures to lighten the sides. I think its best to load the tank bag as much as possible while relieving the sides.

Forgot to mention it... subframe got slight disaligned due to impact.

I think the panniers weight is the reason for this.

Just my 2 cents worth, but I have been on the road with my KLR for 2 months through Baja, mainland Mexico, and am in Guatemala heading towards Panama. The loads your carring are really heavey for the KLR. I am using 2 rear soft bicycle saddlebags that I´ve adapted to the bike and they carry about 15lbs each. I have a top case ( plastic lockable tool box ) that carries tools, gear and water 20lbs. On the rear seat section I have my tent, sleeping bag and sleeping pad. I have a tank bag 10-12lbs and a small fairing pack that carries my spare tube, pump, and patches. I estimate that I carry no more than about 75lbs total gear and I have never lacked anything. No laptop, no Gps only maps and journals. I have the stock shock on the 5 preload setting and before I left I changed the fork oil. The bike handles as good as a loaded KLR can. I have pushed it through tight twisties along the Mexican mountains and the only limit was the Bridstone trailwings. In my opinion the worst thing you can do is over load the bike. Even with my conservitive load, the bike is heavey and slow. I have gone off road through rocks and hardpack and it handles OK, but anything soft and I´m in trouble. I upgraded the subframe bolts with 12.9s, but would say the best thing is to travel as light as possible. I have stayed at hostels that let me park the bike in the lobby or courtyard and this would not have been possible if I was carring wide big hard saddle bags.

You guys only take 15 pounds per box? What about all of the BMWs I see with Jesse luggage. How much do the boxes and frames weigh? I just bought two 61 litre ammo boxes for 30 bucks Canadian each and it turns out they weight 30 pounds each too. A buck a pound! http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif A passenger weighs about 160 pounds if wearing gear so I don't see how a pair of bags would take you out but ofcourse I wasn't there so I won't dispute you. I am aiming for 140 pounds total including boxes, frames, and stuff.(yep, it's going to be 50/50 carrier/cargo! http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/frown.gif ) This is on a standard style Suzuki GS400 mounted really low, not a tall bike.

So, how much do the guys who are travelling for a really long time carry? I want to be comparrable. A laptop, a camera, and a video camera together in one box would weigh close to what you guys are carrying per box. When carrying the boxes with my new Sportster 883 shocks installed on my GS400 all I've noticed was that my springs actually compress a bit when I enter the road. Before they wouldn't squish, and I weigh 220 with gear! http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif

Thanks, Steve

There's a far cry from the R11GS and the KLR650. I don't have any exact figures but I would expect the GVW of the BMW's to be much higher. Also keep in mind that loading the bike effects not only the suspension but stresses the frame. Loading much beyond the mfg's limits can cause BIG problems not just in ridability but safety. The KLR is not a heavy hauler in stock form. To compete with the GS's some frame modifications are in order.

Kurt

Kurt, could you please describe specifically what frame modifications you would suggest?

Thanks.

Mike
Idaho

Hi ;

Finger has healed enough to pull the clutch, so i loaded the side panniers and made a trial.

My observations ;

* Limit for side panniers is roughly 8 kg. It doesnt bother you at all and you even dont know if they are there.
* But above this load, bike tends to slide under you, at the curves.
* Rear shock level of 3, for 8kg per side+12kg. top case, was found sufficient by me.
* If you decide for hard panniers, then i would recommend KAPPA K21. Its lighter and more compact and much more cheaper then GIVI sets.

Mike,

The minimum would be larger bolts that hold the subframe. These can be had at http://www.dual-star.com/. Also, the racks that hold hard panniers that i've seen seem to consist of some cross-bracing that goes around the back of the fender and connect the left to the right racks.

Kurt

I saw those bolt kits at dual-star also, but thought they were a bit pricey. I just drilled and tapped the holes out to 10mm from the standard 8mm, and haven't had any trouble. The 10mm is the biggest socket head screw that would go in the recess in the sub frame. You then need an allen wrench to remove them, but I carry those anyway, on trips. A KLR 650 I rented a few years ago had those upper bolts fail while I was using the bike, and I was not being hard on it, so I think this is one mod worth doing. Somewhere on the HUBB there is a thread about two guys travelling together who had their frame backbones break within weeks of each other, but that is the only time I have heard of that.

------------------
Andy Tiegs
www.tiegs.com

A quality product can be found at http://www.bigcee.com/
for much less than the Dual Star bolts

My two centavos worth....get the bottoms of the cases seam welded, spot welds just a'int up to the task.

My cases were turned into 'modern art' after a fairly minor spill. The welding has made them SO much stronger & they've since handled some serious abuse.

I've been travelling for 7 months on an F650 with 35 litre Zega panniers & approx 12kg in each. No problems with the frame or rack.



------------------
Last seen in S.America, missing presumed fed.

I rode my KLR to Prudhoe and Copper Canyon with Happy Trail pannier racks with the cross brace and a pair of homemade aluminum panniers made to specs of Zega 30l. I loaded them moderately maybe 25lbs each. I had a tank bag and a large dry bag strapped behind me. The front forks had Progressive springs and 10 wt oil, the rear had the stock set up.
The bike handled poorly from the start. 1 week into the trip, I shipped back a load of stuff including the tank bag. It handled slightly better. I had the misfortune of having 2 low speed low sides while in sandy dirt and the left bag sheared off. That was enough for me. I now use Rev Pack soft panniers and a Givi top box to lock any valuables. Next expedition will include tank panniers to even any load. But I won't be using hard panniers again on an "adventure tour." 1 more idea, get a jungle hammock if you must camp. Much more portable than any tent.
Cheers,

jomarron,

What kind of pannier rack system do you use with your Rev-Pak bags? Still have the Happy Trails rack, or do you just sling them over the seat?

hava98

Interesting thread on panniers. I used soft mountain-bike panniers on my XT and had no problems other than scorch marks on the exhaust-side pannier.
Now I ride an old Boxer BMW on which I had the same soft panniers. I firmly believe less-is-more. Less to carry, less to lose. But some greybeards down at the bike club tut-tutted when they saw the soft bags and told me all kinds of horror stories of nasty spills caused by straps etc getting into the rear wheel. Comments, anyone?
cheers
Paul

Regarding the use of soft bags and having them fall into the rear wheel.

On another BBS I read a fix that may address your issue. The fella used a piece of strap metal to span the open area creating a 'fence' between two points on the bike effectively holding the soft bags away from falling in.

Now the bike was not a KLR but the principle is worth considering.

I'd only be concerned regarding chafing that would wear through seat material, and theft from unlockable bags.

Has anyone used the aluminum tour boxes from KLR650.com? http://www.klr650.com/alTourBox.htm

Just looking for a review or two. If someone out there has them, what is the overall width of the bike with these boxes mounted? Are they quite heavy?

thanks

------------------
Steven
2001 KLR650
Cozumel, Mexico

now i have to wonder what is that is so needed for you to carry all that weight? when i head out a pair of soft saddle bags (ortleib style),to carry some change of clothes stove a pot or two, tank bag (converts to day pack)for daily things camera maps rainware, and a tail bag (fabric) (no more then 8" high) sleeping bag tent and similar, in all my years of travelling i have found the less one takes the better and easier life becomes, yes one needs to take the basic tools and other such needed mechanical stuff, but 14+kg a side!!!! way too much stuff. my suggestion is to make something down low in front or to the sides of the motor, where you would put all your metal (heavy) tools, its much easier to carry a credit card and a money pouch then it is to guess what sort of troubles your going to endure along the way.

the less stuff you leave with the happier you will be.

for those who are worried about straps getting into the rear wheel, if a load is properly tied down, no matter what terrain you go over or through a load shouldnt (and if done right) doesnt move nor do straps hang down (sounds like a lazy person) then again i wouldnt put a metal strap any where near my rear wheel, its one thing trying to remove a strap that has come to close to my tire let alone the damage what that metal strap would do.

I think the key thing here is keeping the weight as low (C of G) as possible.

This guy http://www.geocities.com/artorasimus/ had a 'tool tube' made which was then mounted to the frame just in front of the sump guard i.e. as low as possible.

Bearing in mind 11 kg of tools isn't so many, it's a good idea!

An interesting discussion, to be sure. Something to bear in mind is that most bikes are designed to take 2 people. So even if you converted the whole weight of a pillion into luggage you shouldn't exceed the design parameters of the bike. Being conservative and estimated a pillion weight at 50kg means that the figures discussed in this thread should be shy of the maximum allowed loading for the bike.

The other consideration is the location of the weight. A pillion sits behind and above the normal CoG of the bike. Using side panniers lowers the weight when compared with a pillion, and should affect the handling less than a pillion. I avoid top boxes for this reason as well. However even the side pannier location is sub-optimal being a long way behind the CoG, and if you can get any heavy items stashed low and forward this should redress some of the backwards bias. (I tend to zip tie my heavy tools, like tyre levers, to the front of the bashplate.)

Hope this helps, Iain.

i see this started as a panier discussion but i too like the idea of being able to carry kit low and forward so to lower the overall centre of gravity and keep the bike as stable as possible.
my wife and i are 9 months into our 4 year rtw trip and have a couple of beat up old dr650s. i have found an excellent way to carry tools, is in a trusty H84 (v. small)ammo box which can be bolted easily forward of the bash plate without impeeding the steering or suspension travel. (at least not on a dr). it keeps most of the weather off and i store a litre of oil there too.

additionally i have a plastic tube (actually an 81mm mortar container) approx 18 inches long and 4-5 inches in diameter fixed opposite side to the exhaust, under the rear mudguard. it does not interfere with the suspension travel and is great for long tyre levers and i also have a 3/8 deep socket set and a roll of draper ring/open spanners.

all just food for thought. i saw both these ideas on green laner bikes in the UK and have found them great. plus they are cheap as chips.

safe riding

matt and jo

As one of my system cases was stolen I've been looking at a set of panniers. This web posting has been great. Al though with all the different ideas and theories, pictures tell a thousand words. can anybody post some pic's of their set up?? Thanks!

Having ridden a Honda Dominator through plenty of mud, sand and loose gravel, with 2 heavily loaded ammo boxes as home-made panniers, I suggest that comparing the ride characteristics with these boxes with carrying a pillion is unrealistic.

A pillion's mass is vertical through the frame, generally forward of the rear axle, and self compensates (hopefully) to riding conditions.

The biggest problem with rear mounted heavy panniers is sideways rear end momentum, especially at high speeds on loose surfaces. You can get some crazy swinging action going on, as you hope you can sufficiently control your foot onto the rear brake, before you end up eating dust. Conversely they make for speccy power slides.

For durability alone I recommend ammo box panniers, especially if you are doing really rough stuff, and expect to drop your bike.

For strength and rideability I suggest welding the boxes onto a frame that bolts semi-permanently to the bike. The most important load carrying attachment point to the bike should be through the frame holes provided by the pillion's footpegs, thus achieving weight distribution as low as possible. Everyone understands the extra stability gained by standing up when riding, despite the increase in height of centre of gravity. Do the same for your panniers. Use mounting points around the seat for stability and strength only, not weight support. Make a brace that joins both boxes over the back of the bike for extra strength. Mount your boxes as far forward over the rear axle as possible. Making a semipermanent set-up will allow you to mount the boxes much closer to the bike than having removable boxes. It is easy to secure ammo boxes.

The criteria above increases in importance if your bike has a shorter wheelbase and is lighter.

If you or a friend are handy with a welder an ammo box setup much more durable than aftermarket panniers can be had for a fraction of the cost. I also recommend putting in a decent load adjustable rear shock if you use ammo boxes.