Buying brand new KLR--hints?
 

Based upon my research, I've determined that a KLR is the best bike for my travelling needs. With a price of only $4999, I see no reason not to buy it brand new and avoid any mistakes the previous owner might have made.

Please let me know your hints/tips/suggestions for how best to treat a new KLR to get the most out of it.

Bargain hard for that KLR650 and do not pay retail. I just bought a new 2004 in Hayward, Ca. for $4176 plus tax/license...Good Luck!

Congrads Mr. Toad! And they're red this year. :-)

Break it in right, then thrash it. There are a lot of accesories available, but what is necessary for you depends on what you plan on doing with it. I've thrashed mine good with a minimum of modifications and have had few if any problems with it.

Kurt

[This message has been edited by Kurt (edited 11 February 2004).]

Mr. Toad: Do tell how you got that deal! Around here, no dealers carry KLR's in stock. They seem to be pushing the Suzuki DRZ400S instead. Thus, they have to order a KLR. I doubt they'll budge much on price since they aren't trying to clear any out.

I plan to get a magnetic drain plug from Dual Star, replace the air filter, and change the oil after 100 miles. I'd like to do as much as I can to break the engine in properly to (hopefully) reduce problems down the line. Any other recommendations? How about using a wetting agent in the radiator?



[This message has been edited by Frank Conley (edited 13 February 2004).]

Actually that price was advertised on Craigslist, a local website, and in the local "CityBike" rag. I did not haggle at all, and when I failed at locateing a leftover 2003 the other dealers who had all had "low price guarantees" could not match it. That price was before tax and license of course...

I wish i had known, but to do it again i would warm the bike up in the dealer lot, then change the oil immediately. I've heard all sorts of stories of stuff found in the oil first change, and even tuny aluminum filings melt and cover the transmission gears etc. I might also to do it again ignore the dealer break-in advice and really get on it the first 20 miles as advised elsewhere, but then that's a whole other and contraversial topic...at this point I'm stuck with complteing the Kawasaki break-in protocol. Good Luck!

I'd follow Kaw's advice for break in rather than other 'theories' that flow around the internet. Kaw. is after all in the business of designing and building motorcycles; they ought to know.

Kurt

Kurt, I'm guessing you'd disagree with this guy, and I'm guessing Toad wouldn't:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Either way, Toads idea of changing the oil almost immediately sounds like a good one . . . .