What is a "good replacement shock"?
 

The question stems from the article linked in Grant's rear shock technical page.

Now I should first point out that I have never upgrade a shock on any of the 23 bikes I've owned (with the exception of fitting an early Fireblade to the backend of an NC27 CB-1; a hugely underrated gem of a bike that I sorely regret selling).

That said, I'm now considering doing just that on both my current bikes. One is a TDM900 and the other my Transalp 600.

Both are for Sunday bimbles and blasts and both are for touring. Asphalt goes to the TDM, not so asphalt, the Transalp.

Both likely two-up.

Recent threads on have re-awoken in me the idea of travelling someone that isn't just Europe and this is exciting and this also makes me want to get my Transalp fighting fit.

And so, finally to shocks. I should probably replace mine. 20-something years old and with 70K km on the the clock.

But what with?
I can spend 500-600 on Nitron, Wilbers or Hyperpro.

Or I can spend 300-360 on a Hagon or YSS.

Are those cheaper shocks just OEM standard and just as vulnerable, or are they already an improvement over factory issue?

Are Nitron and the like really far more than any of the others and worth the sphincter-clenching price tags?

I put a Hagon on a KLR 650. I'm very happy with it. A big positive is the spring stiffness is much stronger than the original and better suits loaded riding. More detailed comparison with the original OEM is not really possible/fair since it was already 100,000km old. Also I've no experience with the other makes to say if they are better for the extra money; all I can say is I do not feel that the extra expense would have been worth it for me.

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Thanks navalarchitect (I'm more of a navel architect, myself!).

Can I ask, do you ride off-road, or two-up?

I do both, although off-road, really means unpaved roads and some forest trails, not mud, snow and sand.

I have Hagons on all of my bikes and they work well enough for me, I have used them on long tours both with and without a passenger and they will rebuild them for a reasonable price.
I have used WP and original shocks in the past both of which performed adequately but the Hagon was cheaper than original and works as well and I didn't think the WP was worth the extra money, I do not think paying a lot more gets you more life expectancy when out on the road, just more adjustments that you are probably not going to use.

I have WP front and rear on one of my bikes and tbh it’s wasted on me. I’ve twiddled with the settings over the years and tried to set up static sag etc - like the suspension tuning guides tell you to do - and it all feels much the same. I’m sure I could replace it with something cheap and in a blind test (not a good idea on a bike) my posterior wouldn’t be able to detect it. :(

I once swapped bikes with someone with a stock KLR650 and that bike felt very loose at the front for the first mile. After that I adapted and it felt normal. The KLR owner, by comparison, thought my bike suspension was rock hard and hated it. Moral of the story - unless you’re a high end rider, high end suspension may not be wonderful value for money.

My idea of off road is roughly similar to your description - I ride plenty of back roads and trails but try (sometimes unsuccessfully) to avoid the more hard core stuff.

The Hagon shock did 27,000 km two up in South America and then about the same again one up in Central and North America - at the end of that I treated it to a factory rebuild "just in case" and it's now waiting for the world to open up again.

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Good to hear you read that article, and it opened up some ideas for you! :)

FWIW, I think the most important thing in a replacement shock is that it's easily rebuildable, preferably by any suspension expert, and that it has the adjustments you feel you need for your purpose, and finally that it's properly sprung and valved for YOU and your usage. Oh, and it fits your budget! :)

A final tidbit - recent discussions with a suspension guru - he feels stock shocks that can be rebuilt - not easy but some can - should be rebuilt at maximum 40,000km or less. Any further and forget it, they're beyond saving. And you'll only get one rebuild out of them. Second, rebuild ANY shock at 40,000 to ensure they last indefinitely. Both the oil needs replacing, and changing the oil gets rid of wear particles, and just a general check and seal replacement.

hope that helps!

Thanks Grant.

Lots to think about.

Of the two bikes I have, the TDM is the newer, more expensive one. It's also more powerful and looks in better nick so it's easy to think that, if I can't splash out on two new top end shocks, the better of the two should go on that.

Yet, that TDM will see European A-roads, B-roads, highways and mountain twisties. Yes, two in that list would benefit from an all-singing, all-dancing shock, but they are also the least demanding surfaces.

Which then means that perhaps the bells and whistles shock really should go on the Transalp because it is that which may make a comeback as my overland bike for two-up adventures who knows where. Even though, it looks a bit tatty!!

Or I just get a perfectly respectable Hagon/YSS/M-shock for both of them to avoid squabbles and accusations of favouritism in the garage...

Indecision: where I earned my black belt.

the #1 thing EVERYONE - more or less - who has put on a good aftermarket shock says is: "I can't believe the difference - how did I put up with it like that for so long?"
My advice FWIW - Go for good on both. Perfection not required.

Interesting stuff.

At the risk of widening the discussion too much, has anyone any experience with any of the Touratech shocks? I had an Ohlins shock on an old bike, and I’d agree with Grant’s comment above. I don’t disagree with higher end shocks being overkill for some, but I like the idea of being able to get a rebuild and the way an after market shock will cope better loaded.

Just to get another opinion: let's say you have two shocks, both rebuildable, eg Hyperpro/Wilbers and Hagon. Let's take these as examples, not necessarily a named brand comparison (although, I'm interested if anyone's had experiences of both)

The first two are top tier, the Hagon in the middle-ground.

What I'm trying to get a feel for is whether the additional 50-70% in cost for the top tier ones translates as a tangible difference in performance and/or a measurable difference in longevity/resilience etc.

In a nutshell, beyond the fuzzy feeling of having top grade kit, are they worth that extra cost.

Quotes so far from Wilbers: €1398 for two shocks and two sets of springs. The Hagons come in at €750 for the same equipment. Admittedly the rear shock may have less adjustment, but still: that is not a difference in price to ignore.

And if I can already get the tyres rimmed on corners on the standard shocks, where will I feel the improved performance? Braking? Uneven surfaces?

There will be a marked improvement on bumpy corners especially if unexpected. The bike will feel as though it's looking after you. You will also feel a lot less tired after a long day.
I wanted to add that if pressed, the shock manufacturers will admit that a remote reservoir / adjuster is the weak link if you are really going to put the shock to work. you wouldn't want the flexible pipe or connections to fail in the middle of nowhere. I have unwillingly ended up with a remote adjuster but only because access to the shock to adjust it is nearly impossible.

Will you notice the difference? I think it so much depends on your riding style and ability. I regularly swap between two KLR's one with a new Hagon and one with a twenty year old, 130,000 km never rebuilt one. Do I feel a difference? Yes, but it is limited. I happily admit I am a slow non-aggressive rider who does not push my suspension to the limits. So for me I doubt of the extra performance of a top line shock would be either noticeable or worth it. You will have to make this decision based on what you think your own riding style is.

Regarding this adjusters and the risk of failing. For the Hagon the adjuster only offers a limited range of extra spring compression by pushing off a fixed collar. This fixed collar is the normal screw thread adjuster that exists if you do not have a remote adjuster. Consequently if the adjuster fails on a trip you could simply ignore it and screw the fixed collar down a bit further- a bit of a faff but not a trip stopper (I had the adjuster added, because as with the other poster, I found adjustment without it required shock removal - it is not something I use every day but it is useful because I sometimes carry a pillion).

Good luck with making your choice.



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Guys, I don't want to sound like a Philistine, but I just use regular old OEM shock absorbers when I need a replacement. They work just fine (maybe I'm not a sufficiently demanding rider to be able to appreciate the finer points of aftermarket shocks that cost twice as much), they last a reasonable amount of time, and best of all, there are no surprises - just take off the old one and put on the new one.

Last time I replaced a shock absorber, I did it in a hotel parking lot 3,000 miles from home - see here: ST 1100 Rear Shock Absorber Replacement. Took about 20 minutes to do the job.

Michael

I get that the OEM does fine, but how much does a new one cost from Honda?

I bet the likes of Hagon compare very favourably, perhaps even Hyperpro, when you think that Honda charge €25 for a brake lever.

With rebuild options, you get to keep new shock performance indefinitely.

I'm speaking as someone who's only once replaced shock on a bike and that was with an OEM one, but that was from a different model to stiffen the ride which worked as planned.

I've always baulked at the cost, but I can see the benefits of buying decent gear.

In other words, for similar money why settle for "fine" when you can have "excellent" or at least "better".