Africa Twin dies at idle... A LOT
 

This just started this morning. Its usual for me to need to put the choke in to start it first things in the morning, and it may die a once or twice before runs at idle without choke.

However, all day today whenever I came to idle it would EASILY putter out. It would start right back up too, but would never keep unless I revved it, which was a pain as I was navigating crowded walkways in India. I didn't want to strain the starter, so I just had to "flutter" the gas with the clutch out to keep it running.

MY initial thoughts (and I have real experience here, and can't to many fixes myself. It thought of the things I could fix)

The battery? Although it started back up every time without a struggle, the battery is due for a change, is at the end of a hard life (I think), and perhaps that has something to do with inefficient spark at low idle?

The fuel pump? I know these are prone to failure on an AT, and thought perhaps it wasn't delivering enough fuel/ is about ready to go?

The choke cable? Recently I noticed that the choke cable feel "stiff" and as I recall seems to have lost considerable range of motion. Perhaps its always somewhat engaged, delivering an improper/ "heavy" fuel mixture?

A relay? A fuse?

This concludes just about all my knowledge of how motorcycles work :-)

Any thoughts?

To start with, try cleaning the carburetors (paying particular attention to the idle jet(s) ) and turning up the idle screw. Probably just some dirty/watered down due fuel.

This sounds like the choke plungers, a well known fault on Africa twins, They seize up sticking the choke partially on. Try Honda Trail Bike Forums and do a search for sticking choke plungers.

Hello there,

it is difficult to tell from a distance what is wrong with your bike.

before you start to pull the carbs out, put a new fuel filter in the fuel line and clean the airfilter (or replace it) ... and see what results you get.

saludos
mika

Nice one. I just read up on choke plugs, on xrv.org.uk, and I'd say this is the most likely explanation.

Can I still ride a long way tomorrow without fixing it right away? I am getting noticeably worse mileage BTW (about 30-50km less per 24l tank). But, I also just got new tyres, the front one being quite knobby. I thought that was it.

For some reason, I can seem to post on that xrv.org at all. Plus, ALL of the information is usually WAY over my head. The guys there are AT obsessed.

Any easy fix for this? How long can I ride it like this, and what damage would that do? (Assuming this is it obv).

Also, as per the information I just read about this kind of situation, this information is probably relevant.

My idle RPM is, well, effectively 0 haha. I doesn't stand at idle anymore.

MAYBE it will last a few seconds at 500RMP

From what I read thats way too low. What adjusts this?

Manual says idling should be 1200 rpm, but I found they'll idle happily at anything above 800rpm when at full operating temperature.

You could (even if only temporary) adjust the idling higher so it doesn't stall on you. As for travel long distance (if it is your chokes)- you'll be running a richer fuel mixture, so you can, if you're willing to accept the higher consumption and reduced power. On the long- you'll probably find your plugs start to foul, so it's not a long-term solution. You could take out our chokes, clean them (and lubricate them and the cables and this should eliminate the sticky problem). Ruggedroads sell some aftermarket allu bits that will solve this issue for you in the long run.

Sorry, let me quantify that as it is not entirely correct:

Some manuals indicate idling as low as 850rpm, but timing is indicated (for a RD07) as 10 degrees at idle (1200rpm +/- 100rpm).

So take your pick

If it is the choke you won't do any damage. you can remove the choke altogether and blank off the two holes that take the plungers on the carb, you can use the slider pin cover that cover the pins on the brake calipers. you need to compress the plungers then screw the pin covers in

Please be aware that the plunger/cable setup that goes into the carbs is very fragile and you can easily break them

You adjust the tickover with the small plastic knob under the carbs.

SOLVED:

Thanks for all the suggestions. Unfortunately, most of information contained in them sailed straight over my head doh Nevertheless, this problem is solved.

It had something to do with the choke cable, which is pretty much all I say for sure.

Basically I just took apart what I could, and shot some WD-40 at any moving part I saw. Double points for things that actuated, or wwere moved by cables.

Then I jiggled things, paying particular attention to the choke. I also found out that you can change the idle speed on your bike, like, SO FRIGGING EASILY. So, I located the valve that does that, and switched it back and forth for fun.

The 3 Indian dude who hung around to watch out of curiosity seems much impressed. Fooled 'em!

I washed the filter, because I could. When I put the whole things back together, it fired right up; idled right where I wanted it.

Success. Much learned. But, the more you know, the more you know you do not know. Like whats a carburetor, how do I access mine, and how would I clean it here in India?

But for today, huge success.

Thanks for the help all!

BRAVO!!! You just learned the most important lesson for any traveler:

• If it doesn't move and it should: WD40
• If it move's and it shouldn't: ducktape

:mchappy: