Newbie - habitation unit/vehicle costs?
 

Hi all,

Been looking at the site for a while and eventually taken the plunge as everyone is so helpful, so here goes.

this may be the first step on what may be a long project.

It all started with us buying a new motorhome (no not rich so please don't get the wrong impression as there's a reason why I mention this), it was and is our pride and joy and we have had so much fun.

But and here it comes, I have an engineering background and every time I look at the build quality I sit and cry, it is just so shoddy but I put up with it because of the good times we have had. The other down side is that it is so rear end heavy and front wheel drive that when accelerating up steep hills on dry roads you can feel the traction beginning to slip, and as for wet grass, forget it unless its down hill.

This started me thinking that there has to be a better way and obviously there is which is a 4x4 truck. Now in my mind I would like a 8x8 man kat built by unicat or even a ural 4320 with a big habitation unit to keep my better half happy- but that will always be just a dream:(.

But it may be possible to get something like a second hand eurocargo 4x4 and put a habitation unit on the back. Unfortunately, I would have to get someone to do this as I just do not have the time or space to do it. So my question is this does anyone have any idea how much a habitation unit would cost to put on such a vehicle. I was thinking along the lines of ormocar or British coach builder to build a bare bones shell and then get it fitted out as time allows. I know ormocar have prices on their web site but its not really clear. So if anyone could give me a general idea of what it costs to build a mid range habitation unit I would be grateful. Its just that I'm trying to budget what such a project may cost with regard to how much spend on the base vehicle/habitation unit. Apologies if this is "how long is a bit of string question".

PS I still would like a ural if I could afford the diesel.

Thanks in advance.

R

Hi

I am just coming out the other end of the journey you are starting on

Cloud 9 is Born

I am in the Uk and had the cabin built at Ormocar.
If you contact me via the blog then i will help as much as I can.
Neil

Hi Neil,

Thank you for the quick reply and offer of help, I will be in contact via your blog.

I saw your blog a while ago and I was very impressed by what you and your wife have achieved and it is exactly the sort of thing I want to do too. Never seen two people so happy in the photos you must be very pleased.

Thanks again

Rufus.

Rufus,

We share many of the same motivations.

Like Neil and Pat, I documented my own build at www.triptruck.net

You have quite a lot of choices. As a base, you could use, for example, something like an ex military comms box or and existing refrigeration truck unit if you wanted to keep prices low. You can find such things for under £2000.

GB coachbuilders that would take such a project on aren't so common and prices will vary dramatically. You are mainly looking at Horsebox / Racetruck builders but you just might find someone like Able if you are lucky, that understand the very different requirements of overland vehicles. NB - many horsebox builders will not!

It might help with budget if you were to get your own grp laminate panels made and have a competent coachbuilder assemble them. A very high quality and highly bespoke box could be built for under £10,000 this way.

Or there's the ORMOCAR type option. Guaranteed quality but not cheap.

Whichever way you go, you will need to think about how the box is going to physically mount to the chassis - the black art of absorbing torsional stress.

ex military ambulances or radio trucks can be a cheap way of getting a complete unit. There are a few GAZ units on ebay at the moment with very low miles for about 3.5k, although I would invest in an LPG conversion as well as petrol given their fuel consumption.

I know what you mean about motorhomes. my folks have got one. even down to little things like using a screw so small to hold the gas bottle it pulled out of the wood, I mean, how much would it cost to use a decent sized screw!!
And on grass, forget it man!

I like the book 'travelvans' for some ideas

Hi Moggy,

thanks for that, will have a look, I like cheap. I know what you mean about the screws!!!!

Rufus

Hi Crinklystarfish,

Thanks for the info.

That's just an awesome quality truck, Able link also looks interesting.

Looking at the build blogs this is going to be a massive project over a couple of years. Biggest problem at the moment is trying to stop myself doing something stupid like buying a really cheap man kat or ural which look fantastic and then not afford to fill it with diesel. Best if I don't drink any alcohol whilst looking on ebay.

Ideally I need a truck with 12 mpg or more, so some of the ex military stuff may well fit the bill. I also dont have HGV licence but can drive up to 7.5t. If I need to take it I will.

And if anyone says they can make a man kat or ural do 12 mpg that is really going to spoil my day, or not. Must get them out of my bloody mind.



Thanks again.

H

Good luck anyway - you are wise to avoid looking at esoteric trucks on eBay whilst drunk.

12mpg+ is easily achievable with middleweight trucks but weight is something worth considering for reasons other than fuel consumption and driving livences.

There are many advantages to keeping weight down, not least of which is that the heavier they are the deeper they sink...

of course, with a truck, some of the pain of fuel consumption can be reduced by fitting big tanks, so making best use of cheap fuel when it's available.

Also, don't forget you can downplate a truck. Something like and MAN 2 axle truck might be able to slip under 7.5 tons even with all your gear on board. Decide on a realistic weight for the body and all your bits, then start looking at the unladen weights of the chassis cabs to see if it will fit under 7.5 tons with replating.

One relevant question. Where do you intend taking the new vehicle?

Many thanks,

Still want a Man Kat but who doesn't!!!

I know what you mean about weight, my 3.5t van sunk 2" overnight on a flat grass field. Next morning, the only way I could get it off was to jack and pack the front wheels. 4x4 truck would be different I know (yes did try letting tyres down).

And yes 12+ mpg would be good.

So a sort of plan is developing. I think it will be along the lines you suggested, buy insulated panels and get box fabricated and fit out myself/trades. Right that was the easy part all I have to do is pass my HGV (eyesight test this week), just in case I need it and start choosing a base vehicle. Currently putting a table together of all suitable trucks with main spec so I can see which best suits my needs. Wife thinks I've lost the plot but hay ho.

PS: anyone have any experience of Bedford TM's, they seem cheap but you don't see many converted. I was wondering why, weight, spares or some other problems.

Thank you.

R

Thanks Moggy,

Just so many trucks to look at.

R

Hi Tony,

Very good question. As I have to work, it will be mainly used for trips up to Scotland (winter and summer) and the alps (winter and summer) and exploring Europe.

In truth I could get by with a 2WD refrigerated truck and convert that, it would be cheaper and would suit my needs 90% of the time, its just the 10% that I would not be happy with. For me, that 10% means I can get to those places away from the crowds, meet the real local people and see things as they should be.

Many thanks

R

You are wise not to overestimate AWD systems in a truck-sized oveland camper. 2WD with good ground clearance and even just mildly aggressive tyres will see you conquering most of the places you'll ever want to go to - or, where you should go.

What I'm trying to say is that larger (truck sized) overland campers - unless hugely specilaised - aren't really off-road vehicles. There's way too much at stake in terms of tipping them over etc. You generally only get to crash them once! If you are somewhere where you really need 4WD, you are perhaps getting close to flirting with disaster.

Overland campers are more for poor roads / tracks etc - i.e. places basially designed to allow vehicles to travel. 2WD is likely to be enough nearly all of the time - especially with a diff lock.

If bashing through virgin jungle is preferred, something AWD and much smaller is the tool of choice.

Don't forget one of the biggest /cheapest traction aids other than 4wd is a set of tyre chains , especially if you have a diff lock in the drive axle . With practice they are not hard to fit and remove. Be careful with trying to stay below 7.5 tonne as you can quickly end up without any payload, when fully fueled especially with long range tanks, and water on board .