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Poland in the footsteps of the 51st Highland Division
I'm sketching out a four week trip to Poland for late May/early June 2009 and would appreciate suggestions on 'must see' places to visit. I had a look at the Michelin maps (set of four) for Poland and was disappointed to find they don't have the green edges for scenic routes. Normally I would try to incorporate many of these, so I'm running blind.
My interests are general history, WWII history and natural beauty but I guess I should take in some towns as well. I'm planning to take a tent for fair weather camping so campsite recommendations plus details of cheapish accommodation are also welcome. At the moment I'm thinking of visiting the 21-24 May German HU meeting near Worms, then travelling via the Harz Mountains, Colditz, Dresden, Prague and Auschwitz/Birkenau to Krakow. From there north via Kazimierz Dolny towards Warsaw. Is Warsaw worth visiting? Then maybe visit Hitler's Wolf's Lair at Rastenburg. Then heading west towards Gdansk. My wife's father was in the Gordon Highlanders and was a POW from 1940-1945 in Stalag XXA in Thorn (modern day Torun), so obviously I will spend some time in the area. You can find a reference to my father-in-law on this page by searching for 'philips'. He's recorded as Hurbert, though his name is actually Hubert. As the Russians approached in Jan 1945 he was marched along with many other POWs through blizzards 450 miles to Fallingbostel on the Lunenberg Heath, so this will determine my return route. Ideally I would like to cross the Polish/German border at Swinoujscie/Korswandt which was the route Hubert took. Officially this is a foot-only crossing. Could I wheel the bike over? I've tried looking for a contact address for the Korswandt Rathaus to ask or advice, but no joy. Another place to visit, maybe on the outward journey is the Hackenburg Fortress in the Maginot Line which the 51st Highland were defending when the Germans kicked off the May 1940 offensive. Some years ago we took Hubert to St Valéry en Caux and found the actual orchard where he was captured by Rommel's troops a couple of weeks after Dunkirk. So... suggestions welcome. Tim |
hi Tim
beginning of June its nice time, not so many tourist, even not many Germans :) Krakow = yes Oswiecim (Auschwitz) = yes Kazimierz Dolny = OK cause its on your way Warszawa = only because you can stay at my home with free cup of coffee :) Ketrzyn (Rastenburg) = yes Torun = yes Gdansk = yes depends what you like. Citys, small roads between villages, or just riding in nice area. two border crossing in Swinoujscie: Swinoujscie / Ahlbeck Swinoujscie / Garz both up to 3,5t including motorcycles :) any question are welcome: sq5rk@o2.pl Romek - Warszawa |
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I haven't been there but Stalag Luft III and the memorial to 'The Fifty' should be somewhere around: N51 36.291 E15 18.284 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...50Memorial.jpg I put it on my list of places to visit when passing after rewatching 'The Great Escape'. Here are a couple of camp site locations: Wroclaw: Olympic Stadium camp site (a bit shabby but OK) N51 06.972 E17 05.466 Krakow: Clepardia Camp Site (very nice, might be crowded) N50 05.702 E19 56.534 I understand there's a bike museum at Augustusburg (N50 48.603 E13 06.036) in Germany but I haven't been there. It might fit in if you're coming across from the HU meeting. Stephan |
as Stephano wrote there is a monument. Bit south: N51 36.005 E15 18.479 there are remainings of Stalag Luft III:
Panoramio - Photo of Stalag Luft III - tunnel 'Harry' exit And bit west there is Stalag Luft VIIIc check in google earth. Romek |
Why not drop into the MZ museum in Zschopau just south of Chemnitz (near Dresden) sadly the MZ factory closed last year. Once the largest motorcycle factory in the world but the museum is still open.
MZ Motorrad- und Motorenbau in Zschopau - MZ Museum |
Back to the desert?
You've probably seen enough desert in Morocco, Tim, but the Bledow desert north-east of Krakow's worth a look. Where the Afrika Korps used to train.
Or head south from here to Zakopane in the heart of the Tatra mountains. From Dresden it's not far to the Bastei outcrops overlooking the Elbe. Camping Smok, Krakow Camping Pod Krokwig, Zakopane Camping Oaza, Beskid Niski Camping Polana, Niedzica are all very good. Happy trails, Jojo |
Some great suggestions, thank you
Tim |
Hi Tim
I did the Colditz tour last year and it was brilliant ! Guided tour in English for about 5 or 6 Euros (well worth it). Theres also a lovely little campsite just outside of the village of Colditz. I wanted to do Auschwitz but didnt realise the Polish roads were so bad (I was on a big old cruiser at the time) Have a look at my website Ive just created Welcome to VSOC Centre 4 Its for my cruiser club but if you look under Event reports you will see a trip to Finland, that shows the Colditz parts. Sounds like you have a great trip planned Cheers Geordie |
Nice write-up, though I notice you've not got the hang of packing light :innocent:
I guess I will need to lower my expectations of daily mileage and probably try to miss out the main roads. Tim |
Hi Tim,
How many days you intend to spent in Poland? I offer to prepare you scenic routes near Cracow and offer safe garage in my city. And a glass of beer or 7. You should change route to Kazimierz and explore southern part of Poland which is more scenic in my opinion. Then stay a while in Sandomierz and then to Kazimierz. Warsaw? You will be unhappy even on bike. Traffic is crazy and you will spend looong time there. I am sure Romek will understand it. Torun, Gdansk, Malbork - these places are worth to visit. After Morocco Bledow desert is nothing special, and big BMW is not the best to have fun in the sand. If you love natural beauty think about Bieszczady... Sambor |
I don't know when Polish Universities stop for summer, (possibly June)but I have used their student accommodation in University towns during student summer hols. Very pleasant, usually in nice city areas, often with Internet available, laundry and kitchens. Because they have a reception desk at the entrance, there's someone to watch the bike, chained to the railings/signpost just outside. .....Nice prices too. Poland also has a well developed budget hotel availability. Go to any you see and you'll get leaflets for other ones. However, what has been offered above may make this info redundant.
I found Warsaw summer traffic to be no worse than a UK big city. In Auschwitz outskirts there is a Catholic Centre connected to the memory of the camps. I forget the name but they offer modestly priced accommodation. I'm sorry I forget its name, but you can ask. They allow camping in their nice grounds, which I used. If you're camping, this is an area with ferocious mosquitos. Hmmm - maybe not in May.... The Polish people were unfailingly helpful and friendly. |
Hi Tim,
Just got back from a week in in Poland (flew there :() and loved it. Krakow is fantastic, lots of historic buildings, the Wawel castle is a great way to spend a couple of hours. It feels like a pretty safe city and things there are pretty cheap. 10 zl (or just over £2) will get you a good meal of perogi or similar and beer averages about 6 or 7 zl for a half litre of good stuff. Auschwitz is a kind of a weird one and I was undecided as to whether to go. It's not a 'great day out' as I'm sure you can imagine, but I'm very glad I went. It was one of those experiences that you feel increase your understanding of humanity and history, in all its ugliness, and while that's uncomfortable, its important that people experience it. There was some talk recently of letting it decay once the last survivor had died, but having been there I think it is crucially important that it remains; as a reminder of what people are capable of if society is not vigilant. We also went to Zakopane in the Tatras, which was 2.5 hours south of Krakow by bus. Would heartily reccommend the place. The mountains are beautiful and the town has lots of good places to eat and drink. Especially the fish resteraunt near the bottom of the main street on the left as you head downhill. Enjoy. Matt :) PS: The Poles are like the Scots: not the most effusive in their manner, but they seem like nice, honest people who will help you out when you need it. |
Thanks for all the feedback, really useful.
Sambor: Seeing as so much of Warsaw was rebuilt after the war I think I will give it a miss so as to spend more time in Krakow. I'll possibly have a couple of friends with me, but would love to meet up and share a beer. Sandomierz looks pretty on Google Earth and there's a campsite practically next to the Stare Miasto. Caminando: thanks for the suggestions. I've also found that many of the camp sites offer basic bungalow accommodation, some with kitchens. For example, Camping Clepardia in Krakow. Matt: Even if the experience was very upsetting I feel I would have to go to Auchwitz-Birkenau to pay my respects. I had a waypoint for Zakopane but it was a dead end. However, if I combine it with Bieszczady it makes a good loop before heading up to Sandomierz. Tim |
Student hostels will be busy at the moment so you should find a place somewhere else. There are a lot of places near center where you can sleep comfortable for 20 pounds a night.
Clepardia Camping is also ok. GPS N 50.054330 E 19.562856 Open from April, have good connection by bus to the city center (about 15 min). Price about 20 punds per bungalow (2 person), you should make reservation in advance campclep at poczta.onet.pl Camping has a safe place for bikes. Auschwitz in my opinion is a must, but there is no need to sleep there (only about 1 hour from Cracow). Tatra mountains? Sure, main road is crowded and boring but I will show you more interesting... May is the best time to visit Poland in my opinion. Hope will be sunny. We have meetings of our Africa Twin community, so I hope we will meet with you and your friends and will show you some places around Cracow (for example some castles on Jura). CU in Poland |
Last year I was fortunate to stumble upon a wonderful,(and unique!), village in the south,while escaping the total madness that is Zacopane in the holiday season! My God that was scary! Beautiful place,but not at that time of year I'm afraid...
So, it's called CHOCHOLOW, and is magnificent. I'd recomend number 37 to stay at. A lovely lady who runs the house. Lots of interesting small roads to explore, and not too far from Krakow....... Happy riding..Bootlace |
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