I know its not really applicable to desert driving, but if you use your vehicle for other things, I would think twice about mounting your compessor under the seat, as I did this with my twin tongue, and the first time I had to do some wading it filled the seat box and 1/2 submerged the comp, luckily it cleaned up OK and still works fine.

I`d mount it some where you know it is going to stay dry.

Just a thought

You can mount these anywhere. They could be submerged, but better if they weren't. loads of room under the bonnet of any Land Rover or any vehicle for that matter. They can be mounted on their side. take a look at www.mattsavage.com/viair for more info.

Cheers,
Matt


Monkey nuts
(Not to be confused with Monkeys nuts..)

I can vouch for Viair compressors - they are fab. I have the 2.6cfm one in a sidelocker on the 110 and its a great piece of kit. The hose stretches all round the vehicle and will reach other folks' cars as well and it blows up my 7.50x16 XSs faster than I can deflate them.

Hi,

I'm also looking for a compressor for inflating tyres 12.5R20, during my search I came across this one:
A Flash 12 from Fini with a 5.8 cfm
http://www.dev7.co.uk/oscom/product_...products_id=71

Anyone experience with this one?

If anyone is interested I have a QuickAir2 compressor for sale. Comes in a Steel travelling case but you could take it out and mount it in the engine bay.

Superior to the Truck air compressor but not as powerful as the Grand Erg. You can get a tank to go with it though.

The Spec is a 25ft. nylon coil hose with clip-on air chuck, and 10ft jumper cable style battery connectors. Hook it up to the battery and you're ready to go. 2.18 CFM @ 22 amps.

Selling for 95 GBP plus postage.

Hi Mamarracho
After really lots of deliberation I ended up buying the Flash Air that you're talking about.
It's just amazing! It takes me 15 minutes to get my 6 tyres (twin rear) from 2 up to 5 bars after messing around in the sand. (yes my camper's horribly overweight)
It seats tubeless 235/85/16 tyres without any tricks.
Mine cost 500 euros in an industrial supplies shop in Grenoble, France. Equip'Raid in France has them but they cost more.
They're portable, not vehicle mounted but you need a professional airline and inflator. If you're going for 20 inch tyres it's perhaps handy to know they're available in 24 volts.
What are you driving? I'm in a Daily 4x4.
Cheers
Luke

Hi Luke,

Thanks for the reply, the figures looks quit impressive.
I'm driving a Unimog 404.1 but with a 12volt circuit
grtz,
Mamarracho

For those of you that live in the UK you will never beat this compressor for value and performance. Works like a full size 220 v compressor but is 12 volts and comes with a 5 ltr resivor that can be modified to either be removed or clipped on. Has 100% duty cycle so can run all day without a break its a lovely bit of kit The website is http://www.diy-compressors.com/shop/...sors.htm#koala and its the koala gets good reviews when compared to the best read here http://www.nissan4x4.co.za/technical...rs/article.htm hope this helps

Yep, the Koala's pretty convincing, and that price isn't bad.
The dealer I used got them both in for me so I could compare them head to head:
The Koala's nice in that when you've finished one tyre and you're moving to the next the pump is filling the reservoir rather than blowing through the pressure relief valve, but in sheer inflating speed the Flash air won outright; even with the Koala's tank pre-filled. A tank needs do contain at least half the air a tyre needs before it can begin to make a difference in speed, and for my application topping up a tyre blows back into the tank if you haven't waited for it to fill first.

Does anybody know where in the UK one can buy the The ExtremeAire Severe air compressor from? They seem to retail for about $380 in the US. Bet they are more than that here, is it a US made compressor?

Left SA last month, currently in Zim and will be heading for Nairobi in mid Feb. Anyone got any "localised" solutions to the air problem? As I don't have long bucks can anyone point me towards another solution, ie: air con conversions?

So you would rate this compressor as a good choice over the koala? Is it well made etc? Been looking at the Extremeair severe website here http://www.roverworld.com/extreme_aire_english.htm not too sure now which one to go for

For over a year of hesitating on how to get air into the tyres I was convinced the Extremeaire severe was the pump for me, but at the time couldn't find anyone who imported it (good to see that's changed even if the price doesn't reflect the US price and the weak dollar)
Now that I've got the Flash Air I'm happy. I can't compare directly because I haven't tried the Extremeaire but the figures and sizes speak for themselves: 3/4hp = 0.5Kw where the Flash is 0.75Kw, the cables on the Flash are considerably thicker implying more power, the cylinder is bigger on the Flash so it will push more air. It also has a bigger cooling fan.
The other argument is convenience; the Flash is ready to use, it even comes with a quick release to attach your air line, and is portable (great when you can't be bothered to run your engine to fix someone else's puncture, or for use at home)
The Extremeaire requires some installing and I was ready to leave (although it looks cool to have just an airline coming out of the side of the car)
Hope this helps
Luke

Yes the flashair looks cool on paper but when I spoke to my supplier they informed me that it has a 50% duty cycle it cant be run continually only 30 min on and 30 min off. Secondly when I have spoken to others both in the USA and UK they have informed me that the specifications on the airflash are over rated by about 30%. So I dont know what to think. Think I will go for the Koala at £185 with the airtank included

Duty cycle, that's a point.
I once had to run my Flash for about 25 minutes.
That was to bring my 6 tyres from 2 to 5 bars, our guide's jeep Cherokee tyres from 1 to 3 bars and the mercedes 190 he was towing also needed its tyres topping up.
The instructions in the box don't say anything about letting it rest after a given time. With my vehicle it might have been a problem if the pump were a little slower. The only thing I noticed is that the compressor end of the airline does get very hot, not a problem with the Koala because of the tank.
It's a great shame your dealer won't get them both in so you can do a head to head test and decide yourself; they're both excellent compressors and he's guaranteed to sell the one you don't take.
Whichever one you decide for you'll be happy, now all you have to do is find a place to stow it that's handy but out of the way.
Happy trails
Luke

Hi Luke do you have any pics of your airflash compressor? Does it have a pressure gauge on it etc.

Got the pics, I'm no good at sites so if someone can suggest a picture sharing site...
No pressure gauge, the cylinder head has a blowoff valve that you can set, I just put it to max and use the gauge on my cheap'n'cheerful airline inflator.

http://www.onboardair.com/trailhead.htm This is a good system if you can afforf the $1100 price tag. Think you could design it all yourself though. Buy a winch motor and connect it up to a york or other air conditioner pump via a shaft connector. Not too sure if one could use a car starter motor to drive the compressor too, and ideas? Try yahoo for pic downloads..

highlanderhead,

Guys, this is like reinventing the wheel ... In your car you already have a power source that delivers hundreds of horspower, enough to drive even the biggest compressor! All it takes to use this power is a bracket and a pulley.

What is to be gained by converting the rotary power of the engine into electrical power to be sent down the wires to be recoverted into rotary power of the compressor?



------------------
Roman (UK)
www.overlandcruiser.info

Yes I am aware of that, problem is I want a good strong compressor that will allow me to work away from the vehicle too.

Yes, that's another point. But how far from the vehicle? A 30m coil of textile reinforced rubber hose costs ca 20 quid and you can combine several sections on demand. Do you need the compressor physicall right on the spot where you do the to work?

------------------
Roman (UK)
www.overlandcruiser.info

Hi would a car aircon compressor like this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...e=STRK:MEWA:IT do the job or does it have to be a specific air con compressor? Thanks

Hi,

It's a Sanden SD-709. I guess the main unit is the same as in other Sanden models except the clutch. If you want more info about Sandens, try emailing Brad from OnbardAir (http://www.onboardair.com. He's a very helpful bloke.

I have a York SC209 Super-Compact compressor with a double V groove clutch. I bought it from Motor Climate in Birmingham, 66-102 Cherrywood Road, Bordesley Green, Birmingham B9 4UD, Tel: +44 (121) 766 5006, Fax: +44 (121) 772 8397, info@motorclimate.co.uk. It could be very near you!

The main difference between York and Sanden is that the latter seems to have a lower cfm output and needs externail oiling. York is the most popular option as it easy to mount - almost any position is OK and it's oiled internally.

Hope it helps.


------------------
Roman (UK)
www.overlandcruiser.info

[This message has been edited by Roman (edited 25 January 2005).]

yes, the Sanden 709 will work. A friend of mine has one installed. However I too like Roman prefer the York.

------------------
A.B.

OasisPhoto.com – Images from the Magical Sahara.
ShortWheelbase.com – Jeep preparations.
Coordinates Converter – Lat/Long <-> UTM Conversion Tool.

Thanks A.b and Roman. The info you have given us has really helped. Concerning oiling the Sanden, do you have to do this on a regular basis like so many hours use? And it it a matter of taking it to bits or is it a simple job? Will give the supplier for the york pump a ring today, as I cant seem to find anyone in the UK who sells the York compressor. Found a supplier for the Sanden they are £400 each. So I suppose the ones on ebay are a bargain. Give them a ring and they sell them with delivery for £85 brand new.. I also bought a starter motor off ebay for £10 so I am also going to try the iead of running the Sanden off that. I need the compressor to blow a rubber duck (boat) up in remote locations thats why I need a portable one. Anyway thanks for the help and if you could give us some more adive on the starter motor theory it would help.. Cheers

Roman is right, the inflating power available from an engine driven compressor is way beyond any portable solution, but there are still arguments for and against.
IMHO, if you're going to fiddle around under the bonnet to install airlines and tanks, there's little point in sticking another electric motor in there, once it's not portable it might as well be really powerful. Having said that, unless you live on the edge of the desert you're going to use it such a small proportion of the time.
Is it then worth putting another idler pulley and a non-standard belt on to the engine? It's yet another bearing to seize, and how do you blow out the air filter on your own car? (not something I've done but I'm told it's necessary)
The duty cycle on a starter motor is horribly short, around 60 seconds before you start overheating. I like the idea of compressor driven by a winch motor, why not use a hydraulic winch motor? All the advantages of hydraulic drives are outlined in the Mile Marker sales patter; and I can't see the disadvantages.

Just an idea...

Luke,

I agree, if you need a compressor once or twice a year, just don't bother with an engine driven one. But once you have it fitted there and it performs almost like a workshop compressor, you will be amazed how often you will find it useful.

As for hydraulic winches - normally they are powered by a belt driven hydraulic pump (forget those run by the power steering pump as they are almost useless).

------------------
Roman (UK)
www.overlandcruiser.info

[This message has been edited by Roman (edited 26 January 2005).]

What's the advantage of a compressor driven by a hydraulic (winch) motor? Engine drives hydraulic pump, drives hydraulic motor, drives air-compressor... Hey, we could use the air to drive a pneumatic motor, to run a generator, which we could use to power an electric winch! http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif

(Off topic PS: I have to diagree with Roman regarding the Milemarker winches. Mine (an H12) is driven by a power steering pump, and it's a real workhorse. Cheap, light, small, powerful, reliable, safe, 100% duty cycle... You only need a big volume of fluid pumped if you want the winch to operate FAST under load.)

Regards,

Michael...
www.expeditionoverland.com

Michael,

Don't start me ... or at least under a different thread name ;-)




------------------
Roman (UK)
www.overlandcruiser.info

The compressor has to be oiled all the time. Remember that it's a small engine, would you run your engine without oil? It's a simple job since both types have filler and dipsticks plugs.

Oiling is where the York really shines since its a 2 cylinder upright engine with the crank chamber at the bottom just like a normal engine. You fill this chamber with oil and top it up every once in a while. The Sanden has 5 or 7 cylinders (depending on the model) with a rotary type crank but it's laid on its side so keeping it lubricated required more care, but it works. You also fill it with oil and check the level every few hours of operation or so. You can buy or fabricate dipsticks for both compressors.

Using either compressors you must use an air filter downstream like those you see in regular compressors to filter oil and any water condensation if you're using a tank. . Oil does come out with the compressed air and it must be filtered. Oil insides the tires degrades them quicker for one.

And you're absolutely right in not doing so since all this does is force the dust particles through the small holes in the filter that stopped it in the force place and in the process enlarge those holes for future dust grains to go right through. A very bad idea indeed. I just take it off and tap on it slightly to shake the dust off its surface and put it back in. A good fresh paper element filter will last you a few weeks in very dusty conditions.

Yes http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif. I use it for all sorts of stuff now. Believe it or not filling tires or even running air tools is at the bottom of my list. The top of the list includes filling up a full size thick air mattress and running a blender. There's no reason desert camping shouldn't be luxurious http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif.

A note on portable compressors: if you're not going to depend on your vehicle how are you going to power the compressor? Are you going to carry a battery or a generator to the site? That's a problem especially if you're going to use a York with a winch motor, that's going to need serious juice. I think Roman's suggestion of a very long hose is ideal, although a buddy in the car and a walky talky would come in handy http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif. If you absolutely need to be independent of the vehicle and need serious air, a CO2 tank would be best.

------------------
A.B.

OasisPhoto.com – Images from the Magical Sahara.
ShortWheelbase.com – Jeep preparations.
Coordinates Converter – Lat/Long <-> UTM Conversion Tool.

Looked into it a little more. One needs a Lubricater on the inlet side of the compressor( variable oil setting is preferred) and on the outlet of the compressor a Coalescing filter (this removes the oil via centrifugal forces) And secondly keep topping the Sanden compressor up with oil in its chamber. These two methods will make sure the compressor is oiled internally (bearings etc) and externally (pistons etc)

I am about to buy a 7.5 tonne DAF, and need a compressor for it.

Any ideas - the two main differences are that it is 24V, and that the tyres are obviously a lot bigger!

Sam.

As time marches on, so one's desire for space and comfort enlarge... (I attribute it to age, but it's probably the desire to oblute in privacy :-))

Surely the DAF will have air assisted brakes and therefore a good engine mounted compressor already?

If not, Lee (Highlanderhead) should have taken delivery of his Flash Air by now, you could link up with him and try his out (I think his is 12V but it's available in 24V) You'll be pleasantly surprised...
Luke

Hi yes eventually bought the flash air 12v. Took 4 weeks for it to arrive though. My first thoughts when I took it out the box was its not very well made, but then for £200 what do you expect. Secondly what they never told me when looking at the specs on their webside was the fact that the figures where for the 24 volt not the 12v. So the 12v only pushes out 2.12 CFM. During the 4 week wait for the airflash to arrive, I decided to take on my own project and build my own. I bought a york air con pump off ebay from the USA and a 4.6HP 3500 watt winch motor. I have already started the project, building this monster which will push out 12cfm at 100psi. This is made possible by the high power winch motor that spins at 3000rpm no matter what the load, its a serious bit of it. So far I have mounted the compressor and the motor on a piece of aluminium, and I am just about to couple them together using a spider Ruland Coupler. It will then be mounted in a aluminium flight case. i will post some pics when the project is completed. All in all it will take 40 sec to pump a landi tyre up from flat maybe even less. As far as the FLASH AIR goes well its ok but I wont be taking it with me on my trip, only for short local trips in the UK.

how did it go?
 

Success with the home-build?

Sam.

Anyone used one of these yet ?

www.warn.com/powerplant.shtml

No, but 12 cfm is going some, thats better than my garage compressor!! I wonder how much spondoolies. pretty heavy @ 100lbs, but possibly less than 2 seperate units, although all hanging in front of the front axle

Yeah Moggy, I wonder how much !!! no change out of a grand (£) I bet.....I might enquire just to see......

- and 5cfm @90 psi - so say 7-8cfm @50psi ??? - id like to see the detailed spec sheets and the current draw....

For comparison, the Warn XD9000 on the Disco weighs 78 lbs and the Superwinch X9 on the Defender weighs 82 lbs - so 100 lbs aint bad for a combo...

- quite a decent winch too, looking at its features - similar to the XD9000 - which is a good winch - with up to date gubbins - and of course they do a 12,000 lb version.

be intersting to use one in action and see how it copes for real at West African temperatures - though Warn generally make fairly good gear - the video says it can run as a compressor continuously for 30 minutes - thats a good few tyres @ 8 ish cfm.......

JUMBO Clare air compresser any good for Morrocco trip?
 

:DI bought a cheap little Jumbo air comp for 10 squids and it works I got the fittings and hose and air gun when I was in ireland i got asteel worker to make me a neat little tray that sits over the wheel arche in the back of my toy hilux as the compresser is 240 volt I am going to search for a 600 watt invertor to run it has any one down anything like this ? when I let air in the tyres down and plugged in to the mains from the house worked no probs but i noticed that the motor got hot also the hose end that clips to the compr, also I need some sort of a reel that the hose can be neatly packed away any info would be greatly appr, thanks Stephen
sorry about the bad grammer

Unfortunately I think that you have taken the wrong approach. Compressors tend to draw a high current and having a mains one means that you will need to find an invertor capable to power it. Also invertors are a very inneficient way of powering equipment.

You would be far better off (and I suspect it would bee cheaper than your cheap compressor and invertor combo) just to go for a decent 12volt compressor like a Viair (around £135) in the first place.

As for the heat side of things, yes they do get hot and you will find that the cheaper ones will overheat quickly and require more time to cool down. You may find yours fine for pumping up one or two tyres in one session, but may struggle to pump up four large tyres.

When researching coompressors do check the duty cycle rating - there is quite a good basic guide to compressors at OffRoadRecovery.Com Air Compressor Basics - certainly enough to get you going.

After trawling through here, I think I'll have a go at plumbing in an old A/C compressor - I've been using T-Max jobby for the last three years, which I thought was worth a mention - small, very portable, about £50-£60 and inflates pretty quickly. All metal construction (it actually looks exactly the same as a Viair 400 - had it side by side with one once, only the stickers were different) and though it does get hot, it's never cut out.
I used it to inflate a king size airbed the other day and after only a few minutes returned to find it was about to burst!
It wasn't as quick to re-inflate four aired down tyres in the desert as the guys who were using on board engine driven compressors, but only a few minutes behind.
Be nice to shift the pump under the bonnet though, the T-max takes up the space of six large tins of beer, and in a 90 every little helps...

compressor:warn
 

hey, I have fitted to my defender a warn powerplant (winch and compressor) also a 5 gallon tank. It is nothing short of awesome. It will happily run air tools (12cfm) eg ratchet and also pump tyres up (around 50secs from 10 psi to 40psi) It is very heavy though (think 45kgs comes to mind) plus ARB bumper (another 45kgs) so i uprated the suspension to heavy duty as roof tent added too. Other down side it is quite expensive, at least £1000 plus bumper, plus mount kit etc.

A/C Compressor
 

Hi Guys,
Been looking into this at some length,
IMHO, an engine mounted a/c compressor is by far the best way to go, I wont bother regurgitating everything that has been already said in this post, but I am currently looking to source a York EF210R, will be more than up to anything an overlander could want to throw at it, and a complete install should come in at under £200.
As soon as i can find exactly which models of car (in the uk) had the big ones i'll be sure to post it here.
In the mean time there is a lot of great info on the install etc here:

York Compressor for On-Board Air

Sam

Yes, a York compressor is the way to go, however the big difficulty is finding somewhere to mount it.

I've got a couple of these in the garage, and plan to try and glue one onto my Td5 sometime...

should be fun! :-)

Hi Jim,
If you want to part with one of them, let me know

Sam

I believe that York A/C compressors were fitted to old Volvos, so maybe worth checking some big old 740s in scrap yards?
Gil

Hi Jim,

Out of interest where did you source them? I would quite like to get one to play around mounting them onto LCs.

I'm sure the answers somewhere in the previous ten pages, please excuse the lazyness - is there a particular reason a York compressor is more prized than if say I used a standard LandRover pump which would fit nice 'n' easy??
Does if have a higher output or is there another reason?

From memory most other compressors will require lubrication from the medium it is pumping, the York compressor is self lubricating.

One of them a good friend sent over from the States, and the other i picked up at old sodbury a while back.



they both had V belt pullies on them, but last time i was in the US on holiday, i picked up a serpentine pully from Kilby enterprises. luckily both pumps are the 210, so the highest output.

Niva Say Never: i might well flog one off, i'll let you know.

If you do, let me know, I would be happy to pop down and pick one up :-)

Let me know
 

Hi Jim,
That would be great if you want to, no mad rush, let me know

Cheers
Sam

I've got a brand new York compressor (210 size, the big one) it doesn't have a pulley on it so you can buy the right one to suit your engine...

let me know if you are interested.. I'm not quite giving it away, but i'll do you a good deal...

Hi, i'd certainly be interested.
Drop me an email and we can discuss

wilsons@boltblue.com

All the best
Sam

Ok started reading this topic and just got totally brain washed, anyone selling a good engine mounted compressor please mail me on hoof4u@live.fr it will have its work cut out so will have to be good
Many thanks
Adi
Baltic ice road challenge:thumbup1:

Hi guys,

the York is now in the 4x4 classifieds....

Have not read all of the 157 replies..., maybey someone already mentioned this but I think the way to go is mounting an airco pump as compressor and than the RODOAR system (Continental - Rodoar)
All trucks here in Brazil have this. A constant monitoring panel in the cabin plus inflating or deflating while you drive. Keeps your tires constantly at the same pressure or sets them at the pressure you want. It even keeps you rolling with punctures.

Yes, very nice system indeed. Only not very practical for off-roading. In terms of air-lines sticking out of the sides. So no dense jungle or deep mud. Otherwise, very nice!!!

http://img.skitch.com/20080519-na6dj...297q2baesf.jpg
I took this image in Argentina, but Brazil has the same system

Yes in Argentina they have this system as well.
When the hose is caught by whatever it will come loose at the snap-off connection at the hub, no damage , you can just click it back. Still less work than getting out of the truck/car all the time to de- or inflate the tires!

http://www.warn.com/truck/images/1117/VTC-features.gif


This is the new have to have air compressor, it is not cheap but for what you get it is bloody good value for money.

I previously have destroyed both a Thomas Twin Tongue and Viar Supermax compressors, by running an onboard air system which I used to run my lockers and allow me to have a 5 gallon tank of 100psi air for re-inflating tyres, re-seating beads etc, the compressors are very good for re-inflating tyres etc but just do not cut it for higher volume high pressure work. After toasting the Viar Supermax I was going to try and fit a sanden style engine mounted compressor, but by owning a TD5 Defender with air-con mounting a fitting a secondary compressor is easier said than done. I was considering fitting a Warn powerplant but decided against it due to several reasons, cost, weight etc, but after having a good look at one I was more than impressed with the build quality and then did a bit more research and found a place who had the new series Warn air compressors in stock and bit the bullet and got myself one. They make 2 compressors a single and Vtwin, the single is the same compressor as used on the Warn Powerplant but with a different motor, and the twin uses this same motor but just has the extra cylinder. This compressor ozzes quality, it is a similar sized motor to a winch motor which is fan cooled, on top of the motor is a 1 gallon aluminium intercooler/reservoir with a 70/100psi pressure switch and a 123psi saftey valve, so it is designed to run continually at up to 100psi, it flows 8 cfm at 90psi and 20 cfm at O psi, so it has at least the same output if not more than an engine mounted compressor which is pretty impressive. The only draw back is its size which was`nt a problem for me and its current draw if you were using it all the time, it uses around 120 amps running at 100psi but I am guessing it will draw more than this on initial start up when it kicks in at 70psi. I also have a 5 gallon tank mounted underneath which I use in addition to the inbuilt 1 gallon tank and it works a treat, the compressors actually cuts out during re-inflation of my tyres, due to the restriction of the valves in the tyres, but when re-seating tyres on beads I remove the valve core to allow full flow of air which works fantastically, especially if you have had to bugger around re-seating beads just using a compressor with no tank.

I cannot say enough about this compressor, if you have the space to fit one go for it, it also gives you the versatility to swap it between vehicles etc which you cannot do with an engine mounted compressor and if you are planning on fitting air lockers it will also save you the cost of an ARB compressor to actuate them.

Warn Industries - Air Products: WARN Air-Power VTC

Oo that looks nice
 

Nice buy Col, it looks like the ideal portable device.
If it can pump faster than the valve will let the air in, you don't need anything bigger.
You're wiring it in permanently which avoids a problem I've encountered with my 600w Flash air: battery clamp heating.
I wanted to install one of those big quick release plugs you see on electric fork lift trucks, and have the under-bonnet wires permanent, but I never found a supplier.
Now I'm happy I didn't because the compressor is great to use on any vehicle, for friends, garden toys etc.

A comment on your compressor grilling habits; tyre pumps (compressors like the ones you mention)) are rarely dimensioned to start under pressure, if your installation involved a cut-off switch which didn't release the pressure between the non-return valve on the tank and the compressor, your start-up current would be phenomenal! Before the motor shaft starts to turn, the heat generated is quite impressive.

The Warn should avoid all that because it's already configured to work with a tank.

As you say, one for the must-have list.

Dear father Christmas...

The VIGIA Tire Guardian is the world's very first Automatic Tire Pressure or Tire Inflation System. It was developed by ColVen Products of Argentina in 1975 and is used throughout Latin America, Western Europe, Australia, Canada and South Africa. Safer Corporation now introduces the most popular, most reliable Vigia Tire Guardian to the United States.

Julian

So in summation, would you recomend the basic Viair as the best under 150 GBP compressor solution? And...more importantly, can you take them as hand luggage on commercial flights?

I ask as we are off to Zim, in August, to visit family and to rescue my truck and we'll be just carrying hand luggage. My vehicle has been sitting in a internal hotel car park for nearly 12 months and I'd appreciate any advice on it's resurrection.

Yes, there may be others, but that is what I would run with :-)

What about the resurrection?

Just check the fluid levels, charge up the batteries and you should be ok. You may need to flush through the fuel lines, if it is diesel you may have had some sludge build up, if petrol evaporation may have left some crud around.

Bundubasher - when you first get back to your vehicle the best thing to do is bang the panels around the car, open a close the doors, bonnet and back door, slamming them shut, bang underneath with a large stick whilst all the time shouting "hey!, hey!"

Got to get rid of all the snakes, spiders, rats and mice first.

Thanks for the advice Mark :)

How do you flush the fuel lines? If you disconnect them what do you flush them throw with?

Can I drop the oil without starting the vehicle and top up with fresh? Replace brake clutch fluids I suppose?

Can I just jump in here? In reality there's a million and one things you can do, it just depends if you want to or have the facilities to do it.

I'm not sure how you can actually flush out the fuel lines properly without taking them off. Best anyway to flush them out with the same fuel you use in the car, be it petrol or diesel, but I've left vehicles many times and never bothered.
The main area of crap will be now at the bottom of your tank, do you really want to drain that? I’ve never bothered with that either. I’ve just made sure later I’ve changed/cleaned the filter(s) a couple of times in fairly short order after an initial change before trying to start it.

I tend to think of something like this in two stages, first getting it started, next getting it moving.
I always leave the battery disconnected so after a visual check to see nothing has dropped off or been stolen, I connect the battery and see if there’s any life in it (headlights). Maybe I’ll put it on charge or setup a way to jump it later.
I’ll drop the oil and leave it to drain for a while, stick my finger in through the hole and have a feel round to see what crap is in there, if any. Change oil filter.
I’ll have a look at the air filter while the oil is draining to see if a bird has decided to nest in it or whatever (or a rat).
Check ignition lines for perishing or being eaten.
Re-fill with oil making a mental note to change that again with the filter after a shorter time than the next service.

If the battery is as flat as a cow pat then I’d connect jump leads and leave alone with donor car’s engine running for 5 or ten minutes.
Try and start it – and of course it does first time. If not find out why.
I’m of the school of if it aint broke, don’t fix it. I do what I need to start it, then if it does start I’d do other things later if needed. The theory is that if it was running when I left it, then it shouldn’t need too much doing to start it again.

Then move on to part two – moving it. Is the handbrake seized on, does the clutch clear and can you get all the gears, do the brakes feel spongy, are the tyres pumped up – all that kind of stuff.

I’d normally run it around carefully for a few miles, then give it a better going over if I intended to then use it regularly and do whatever I felt was necessary (changing brake/clutch fluid, diff oils, gearbox oil and so on.)

I'm sure I've forgot something, difficult to think about it if I'm not there.

Thanks mark - the vehicle will have been standing for a year however it has been under cover - I just wanted to know what I could buy here in the UK before we fly or in SA on arrival.

So far I'll be taking diesel, a new battery (unless I pull in with another cruiser and jump leads), fuel, oil and air filters, fresh oil and, if I can afford it, a compressor.

As you say, why fix it if it ain't broke so if I can't drop the oil (the vehicle is parked in an internal hotel carpark and they may not appreciate it!) will it be OK to start the vehicle in order to get it to a place where I can work on it? Won't the engine oil be all coagulated?

Is it your Surf you're going to? Will we get hammered for going off topic?
Will the oil be coagulated? Jeez, what a question, I've no idea. I doubt the oil will be too much of a problem though but there's so many variables as to the state of it - how old is it, what was it in the first place, how long have you driven in it, how knackered was the engine beforehand, is it a mineral/synthetic oil, what viscosity(ies), what temperature and humidity has it been kept in, for how long has it been sitting there, how old was it when you bought it ........

Take the dipstick out and go by what you think, I think you're easily experienced enough after your travels, whip the filler cap off and have a look in the rocker cover, does it look and feel wrong, are there deposits you can't identify.
I'd tend to think it's quite unlikely there'll be an initial problem, but I'd change it for peace of mind as soon as you could anyway whatever it's like, like as soon as you got it “home”. Just don’t thrash it on the way there.

It’s a diesel then? Make sure you bleed it through really well if you can after you change the filter – look for water coming through from the tank as you bleed it. Sometimes you can get a lot of condensation in the tank over time. Use the pre-heat two or three times before you try and start it, either unlatch the filler cap or make sure the air bleed thingy hole is not now blocked up with dust/crap at the filler.

If you try and bleed it and no fuel comes through, one problem I once had was with a lift pump with a diaphragm that had perished over time.
One other thing I’d normally do before starting is manually try and turn the engine over with a spanner a turn or two, just to see if it has seized up or how difficult it is – I once tried to start one, very sluggish, tried new batteries, starter motor, re-did connections and so on but it’d been left for about 2 years and had rusted somewhat.

Yeh - I suppose I am worrying about nothing...I've just got to get it out of the hotel (they are charging me 50,000,000 $ an hour and even though that's nothing with Zim's current inflation, it has`been there for 12 months!) and then Harare (there's a spot of bother there).

If the engine doesn't want to turn over, even with a new battery, can you crack any seizing due to rust with a bump start down a slope?

Sorry if I sound like a complete novice but it's easy to "make a plan" with someone else's vehicle (as I have successfully done so many times) -however you get a bit more cautious when it's the only one you've got.

That solution is a bit brutal really. You may well break the rings, if it is them that are causing the problem.
In an ideal world you'd strip then engine down, but then it never is.
What did help on that one time was to take the injectors out - how handy this is to do in a hotel car park though - then squirt a bit of diesel down into the cylinders, about an egg cup full. Then with a spanner on the crank pulley tried to rock the engine back and forwards until it freed off enough for me to turn it fully over. It took time and patience.

Then I left the injectors out while I turned it over on the starter motor to eject the diesel I'd put in. If there are washers that seal the injectors make sure you have them all or try and catch them as they come flying out when they get shot across the engine and garage. Theoretically put new ones in when you replace the injectors, make sure you got the old one out or you'll end up with two on top of each other and it wont seal properly.
Otherwise, turn the old ones over if they don't look too bad or you don't have new ones.

Be aware that you might now have some diesel in your engine oil.

However, in saying all that, yours wont be seized, the oil will be fine, it'll start after three turns and you'll drive it up into the Highlands with hardly a stutter.
On the other hand, the Hotel is pulling the wool over your eyes and they actually sold the car two weeks after you left it there.

Ok - thanks for the advice - I have resolved to trust in Toyota and to go gently with any problems I find. The hotel in question is The Meikles - a big larny hotel so they may be crooked but I doubt they are downright thieves!

Many thanks for the words of encouragement though.

PS: Bought your e-book the other day although haven't printed it out/read it yet and have a question...what % does Lulu take of the sales and are you getting many sales?

It was you who bought it!! Wow!
The answer is that I haven't sold many, scores rather than hundreds/thousands, though I didn't do it to make money out of it (he says that now after such poor sales figures!).
The market is there if you also pay for a package to advertise it. It's free to put it on Lulu but the only way you'd make money is to take out one of their distribution packages.

Lulu take a fixed price per book. It is priced according to the size/complexity of the book, obviously the bigger it is and the more photos it has the more they take for the printing costs and percentage.
When you do your book you work it out on their web site in their calculator thingy.
But for example, the cost of my book is exactly the same as their costs, i.e. I make nothing on it at all, but for the download I make 2 GBP each time.
Thanks for your donation to my ice cream fund.