Doest it make sense to bolt in a second filter ?
 

In my two previous trips to RIM we often got fuel from drums, not really neat drums from the "Dakar" just normal drums with rust.
Sometimes we used a fine mesh to somehow pre-filter the fuel before, but I guess those drums contain some water from condensation.

Doest it make sense to bolt in a second filter in a 80 ?Like the Racor 500, which is a high flow centrifuge filter, normally used in ships. Eliminates virtually any water and comes with 10 or 20 filters. It's transparent so you can see what's going on.

I guess it's the one mention by Gilghana 1.

It cost about 210 Eu quite cheaper than injection problems but i wonder if the 2nd filter makes the I.P. or the pump work harder ?

Any ideas ?

Why not try a Mr Funnel. Mr. Funnel

The F8 model you can use at the pumps.

I would just carry a spare filter.

60 series have an extra water separator filter bolted to the chassis somewhere on the RHS near the tank, don't the 80 series have it too??
Otherwise I'd go for the Racor filter (cheap one here)

my 1990 60 has it under the bonnet against the bulkhead I think, or am I mistaken in this?

armadillo,

You can't go wrong with the Racor filter - very easy to change, cartridges are small in size, hence easy to store, inexpensive and widely available in Europe. It offers excellent water separation, too. I've had it on two trips in my LC HDJ80 (as the first filter in line) and never had to worry about fuel quality.

- Yes, our 80 is got the normal filter and water separator in the same place but the local mr diesel told me, that, for some reason even good filters let some water and rubish pass. Which is no drama, of course, but a prefilter can be a cheap prevention, I guess.

- Mr Funnel: well, it sounds nice and you can use it in different vehicles, but I live in a farm and I'm exposed to diesel smell quite often (the fuel tanks, the machinery... ) and would rather avoid the smell of diesel if I can. One of the nice things of L.C is that they easily carry 260 liters under-body, no jerry can fuss and wet feet. And the funnel if stored in the cabin can easily smell like a professional bean eater and if stored outside can become an artwork made of dust.

-Mario, the filter you show looks interesting and not expensive, is it a Racor?

- My only worry was if a second filter would somehow create a stress at the pump.

Thanks for your help. Thanks H.U. for the learning and sharing. I got the feeling I'm even learning how to write in English.

fuel quality!
 

We drove 60.000 Km in Africa on east coast and west coast with only a standard fuel filter (HZJ 75) which does have a small water trap with electrical alarm. We never got any water in the filter! Maybe we were just lucky. The HDJ80 (direct injection) is more sensitive for poor fuel then the HZJ75 (indirect injection) so from that point of view an extra filter may be usefull

Cheers

Noel
exploreafrica.web-log.nl

If I were doing a lot of trips or one long one I would go for the standard Racor 500, but would also fit a Walbro fuel pump by the tank to push the fuel to the injection pump.

Fitting a Walbro pump reduces the strain on the lifter side of the injection pump and also helps at higher revs, it would also reduce any negative effect of fitting extra filters.

I have to agree with lone rider, just take spare filters. If the locals use the fuel it cant be that bad and I bet they dont have extra filters. Toyota spent a lot of money on research and development, ok things can be improved but will you really benefit.

Graeme

counterfit filters
 

Another remark on filters, fuel and oil; take them from home or buy only at larger Toyota garage. There are a lot of counterfit filters from Nigeria on the market and you can't tell them from real Toyota filters. There is a big difference in quality. Change the oil + filter every 5000 km, fuel every 10.000 km

Cheers,

Noel
exploreafrica.web-log.nl

without doubt....
 

I would definately add a second filter/water trap - makes sense and will give that extra peace of mind.

local fuel...
 

Sorry,
but this is a bit of a pet subject for me... Can't help it, as I have had literally countless injection pump problems on vehicles I have driven in 12 years of working in very rural Ghana. We store about 150,000 litres of Diesel, which we buy from a reputable worldwide petroleum company. This fuel is brought from the refinery to us in a dedicated tanker, which is used only for us. Recently Ghana is forced to import already refined Diesel oil (mostly from Nigeria) and quality is very variable. I am sure this is no different in RIM or wherever in developing Africa. The problem is not the original refining, but every step of the supply chain, where there is contamination (deliberate and simply unnavoidable). Obviously when you get to drums in the desert you are down a pretty long supply chain... Therefore opportunities for contamination abound. Here a litre of diesel is worth about half of a day's pay (on minimum wage levels) so theft is also rampant. This problem exists all over Africa. The theft is ofen disguised by replacing the stolen diesel with water or Kerosine (depending on market prices of Kerosine Vs Diesel). Our experience led to numerous solutions comprising paste to dip tanks that highlights water contamination, to a final centrifuge which costs about $10,000 and spins diesel at very high revolutions to seperate particlulate and water contamination. The manufacturer of this centrifuge indicated that weekly cleaning would suffice - we ended up cleaning it every 3 hours!! Strangely different types of injection pumps seem to get on better than others, with Toyota leading the pack in terms of sensitivity, Nissan and Landrover seemed to do much better. Now if you are doing a once a year trip of a few thousand Kms then I am sure nothing will happen - as many suggest, just take spare filters and drain the water trap regularly. For extended travel or really long term I would recommend a Racor or Separ filter in addition, but definately with a small electric pump fitted also as suggested by Julian. The extra strain of more filters can result in reduced flow rate getting to the injection pump, resulting in less lubrication and cooling with dire results for the pump. All this effort of course ultimately hinges on the micron size of the element in your separ/racor/toyota or whatever filter... And finally it will not completely eliminate problems - just a fact of life in the not so developed world where diesel can be really crap! High sulpher content in fuel also means changing the oil every 5,000kms, and under mining type conditions Toyota recommend even dropping that to 1,500kms! And anyway, when the pump starts to go it is always very gradually... will generally appear as difficult starting when hot, higher consumption and big flat spots. Generally will get worse over one or two weeks, but won't leave you stranded.
But having said all that a dose of UK supermarket fuel might be just as risky :-)
Gil