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changing tyres on split rims
I would like to learn how to change tyres on my Iveco split rims. Has anyone got any advice or a link to a photo step by step guide? I am also going to shot blast the rims and wonder if it will be a problem to hand paint them whilst in pieces?
Graeme |
Be careful, be very, very...........................
Hi Graeme
if you do a search you will find plenty of previous threads on split rims, here's my advice for what it's worth. Quote "I would like to learn how to change tyres on my Iveco split rims. Has anyone got any advice or a link to a photo step by step guide?" I will have a look over the weekend for anything in writting, however one very strong piece of advice when changing tyres with split rims is to place the wheel in a strong bag/net or to place two strong straps in a cross around the rimwheel when airring up, as they have a tendency to 'pop' under pressure, the rim could then come away from the wheel at seriously high velocity - enough to take you head off, so be very careful. Quote "I am also going to shot blast the rims and wonder if it will be a problem to hand paint them whilst in pieces?" Should be fine to hand paint them or get a paint shop to spray them - shouldn't cost much. Will let you know if I find anything in print. Good luck |
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Split Rims |
Split rims
Graham, Here are some pages on changing tyres in split rims:http://www.tyrepliers.com.au/Instruc...age12.htmChris
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Trying again
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straps
thanks for the tips, really helpful. what straps does anyone use to put around the tyre? I am thinking that a couple of roof rack straps would be simple, are they strong enough?
graeme |
easy and safe IME
In my experience taking tyres off split rims is not half as difficult or as dangerous as it's made out to be - although it is certainly heavy work but the utility of in-field repairs makes it nearly worth it. Sometimes I feel there is an often repeated urban myth surrounding the risk of split rims - maybe there was a badly designed brand of rim once that took a couple of heads off. As long as everything is seated correctly as you re-inflate what can go wrong? It takes no more common sense care than jacking up a vehicle safely (statistically much more dangerous I bet).
I have taken apart splits on land cruisers and lately on a M.A.N 8-tonner with 18 years rust behind an OE tyre that all-up weighed more than me. It took two of us an hour of hammering but technically the M.A.N rims were easier than the TLCs maybe because all the bits were bigger. (VW MAN 8136 FAE tyres and tanks if you are interested) You prise off the retaining ring (always tricky on TLCs I found), bash down the rim ring to break the rust seal, lift it off/lever it out with lube, lift off the tyre, repair it and reverse the procedure with a bit of lube if necessary. No need for tyrepliers (tho I did need them on the Toyota). When reinflating splits there is nowhere near as much pressure required as there is to get a tubeless tyre (or some motorbike rims I've known) into the seating well of the rim. In the desert I watched a couple of guys and repair a giant 14.00 R20 tyre without even taking the wheel off the hub: just jacked it up, ring and rim and tyre pulled off, patch it yet again and on again in about 20 mins. However, it's definately better to get familiar with the job in the garden than on the road. Good luck with the sand blasting and painting. I had to do it on the rusty TLC rims but still received endless punctures (it could have been old, tired tyres) and will be going through it all again for the M.A.N's new tyres on old rims. Even blasting could not get to the bottom of the rust - I'll try grinding before repainting this time - it can only make for a nice loose fit! Chris S (at Matt's) |
split rims
Driving tubeless from Netherlands to Cape Town along West coast with ZERO punctures. Driving back along east coast with reasonably worn tires, we had 5 puntures. So in total 60.000 km we had 5 puntures. All of them were repaired with plugs from the outside, a 10 minute job! Driving with others with split rims, they had endless puncture, in some cases 6 per week or so. How come? Because they had split rims!! For a TLC or for any small 4WD the split rims suck! They are like a self fullfilling prophesy, it is easy to repair the tube with split rings but yes, you will have too repair them many times because they are the bloody cause of the puncture to the begin with! Water and dirt get into the rim, rust cannot be prevented and the rust flakes cause the punctures. If the rims are well coated on the inside, it should be better. But also replace the valve support plate on the tube by stainless steel plates. The ferro plates rust like crazy.
For big truck tires? I don't know. Maybe its necessary to have split rims but I guess the same principles apply here too! Cheers, Noel Di Pietro exploreafrica.web-log.nl |
truck split rims
I don't actually agree with Matt about the procedure involved though he is right that it's much easier to change a tyre on a truck if it's got split rims. I have 14.5 r 20 MPT tyres on my truck and spent a couple of hours practicing at my local truck tyre place the other day because I wanted to see if I could replace a tyre on my own. I was told whatever you do you DON'T use any grease or lubricant on a split rim because the last thing you want to do is reduce the friction between the retaining rim and the wheel. Sure clean off all the rust etc by wire brushing or sanding but never lubricate it. Grease also makes it harder to tell if the rim had seated properly. The guy who showed me what to do had a lot of experience on split rims going back to when the were common on trucks like Bedford TKs in the '60s and he clearly knew what he was talking about. He also told me that if you don't have a cage when you're inflating the tyre up to pressure after it had seated then use a couple of strong ratchet straps over the wheel. To be honest I thought he was being a bit over the top until he told me what had happened when one ring did let go..........
Ratchet straps are also invaluable if you can't get the tryre to seat on the rim either-just put it round the circumference and tighten as hard as you can. Q |
Hi Quintin. It was actually Chris Scott using my account. (he was stat at my desk and used my computer etc...)
anyway, I have to agree though, that split rims are very easy to change and if you make sure everything is ok, then all will be fine. and I think you do need lube, otherwise the rim can catch and not slide fully home. If the sections are not in the correct position THEN there could be a misalignment problem, and the split ring could easily fly off taking your hand with it! BUT, without a doubt, tubeless is the way to go. Much better in every way. Cheers, Matt, just about to finish the last of a very nice bottle of Echo Falls white wine... |
Just for interest, I run 255/100x16 Michelin XZL's (excellent) on my Iveco 40.10 camper, before that some horrible rigid cast iron Turkish Petlas crossplies, and before those well-worn Mich XS sand tyres. All were tubed using the proper heavy duty Mich tubes as the wheels don't have rubber 'O' rings needed for tubeless tyres.
I have changed all these tyres myself very easily, the (very) heavy duty military split rims have never looked likely to fly apart on inflation as long as you make sure the rim and ring are seated properly using normal common sense (I still put a ratchet strap on just to be sure though I'm getting to feel a bit silly doing it now). The rims were wire brushed and hand painted years ago and never seem to acquire more than a bit of surface rust. (I only painted the visible surfaces). And in nine years and thousands of miles on all types of surfaces, not one single puncture or any other tyre-related problems. Perhaps I'm lucky so far and have just tempted fate by writing this post.........! Nigel |
I was told whatever you do you DON'T use any grease or lubricant on a split rim because the last thing you want to do is reduce the friction between the retaining rim and the wheel
Fair enough Q, that makes sense. The rim we were working on was very rusty tho - and they will all be getting cleaned up later to avoid using lube (Matt, are you listerning - but the bottle down and get on it!!) Ratchet straps .... round the circumference and tighten as hard as you can. This is more of a tubeless mounting last measure no? Never actually tried it as I always imagined the difference it would make would be minimal, esp on a chunky truck tyre. Ch |
"Ratchet straps .... round the circumference and tighten as hard as you can.
This is more of a tubeless mounting last measure no? Never actually tried it as I always imagined the difference it would make would be minimal, esp on a chunky truck tyre." Sorry for the misidentification Matt-I must learn to read one day! I found it impossible to get the tyre (mine are all tubeless) to seat even with one of those neat thingies that tyre places have which dumps a load of air in the gap between the tyre and the rim. I toyed with the idea of the 'petrol + run like f**k' method but as the tyre cost a small fortune and discretion being the better part...etc I tried the ratchet strap instead. It gives the wall just a bit extra width and provided you can 'jiggle' the rim about a bit (if you see what I mean) and you've got enough air going into the rim, it will seat. Time for a nice glass I think............ Q |
Yes, new tubeless tyres can be a REAL pain. When they are new they are usually packed together and the beadings are really close together, so they are no where near the rim!! lighter fluid (or petrol) would work and would be great fun!!
But if you put too much in you'll blow the whole lot sky high... No wine for me tonight, but maybe a cheeky small bottle of Stella later... |
bead breaker
Thanks again for all the tips. Does any one of you use a bead breaker? if not how do you break the bead and if so which one do you use. My tyres have not been off for a while so might it be an idea to go to a tyre bar? they are looking pretty rusty too!
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I've never used a bead breaker on the Iveco rims. Once the ring and outer rim are off the tyre comes off easily. The Daily rims are thinner steel than my hefty military WM items (maybe that's why mine don't seem to rust badly like the civilian ones do) but the tyre should come off the same. Unless they are really rusted on.....
I never lubricate or paint the inner mating surfaces, the friction is important I agree. Seems common sense. Just a good wire brushing. No problems seating the tyre with tubes but they are a bit trickier to fit, especially locating the valve stems. This makes them more difficult to swap on the truck but if your rims aren't fitted with the o-ring seals tubed tyres are a must. (BTW - A friend has tubeless rims with XZL's and had regular punctures but since fitting (expensive!) new o-rings it's been OK.) Now for a nice cup of tea.......... Nigel |
Morning. Breaking the bead can be VERY difficult. The Tyre Pliers are good. Or you could use a Hi Lift jack, put the base on your tyre side wall, then place the whole lot under your front bumper and jack. Although I have known tyres to be so stuck on that this method simply lifts the vehicle!! But with a bit of messing about it'll come off.
It is also possible to get a proper chisel for breaking the bead. You simply hammer this between the bead and the rim. Again, hard work, but it does work. But as I said, the Tyre Pliers are pretty good. It is still very difficult, but they do give you a fighting chance. Cheers, Matt Savage, just had a nice cup of tea.. |
Wow, Matt, it looks like I'm lucky with these military Iveco rims. Even when I bought the truck, standing for some years on worn Mich XS's, there was no more than light surface rust and they came off easily. I can confirm, I heve never needed a bead breaker. At 70 kilos each (wheel+tyre) they are not light but the steel seems good quality - unusual for an Iveco! I've followed the story of your efforts with Chris' 20in MAN tyres and I can see you struggled. But was that just age/rust and will they be easy next time? And will Graeme's Iveco rims be easy like mine in future once cleaned and painted?
A bowl of Special K and a coffee for breakfast (makes me think of the nice lady in the red cossie diving into the pool in the adverts...) Nigel PS just bought two new XZL's, will be fitting them next week. The Iveco was very rusty after January in Maroc - I suspect Spanish winter road salt on the trip there/back. I may have to eat my words! PPS Just thought: regular tubed-tyre-only rims (rare nowadays) don't usually have a pronounced bead retaining seat as tubeless rims do, are split rims the same? This may explain the Iveco rims being easy. But older military vehicles traditionally use tubed wheels/tyres. I will find out when I fit the new tyres (may bring it forward to this weekend now you've got me thinking!). Watch this space! |
... Water and dirt get into the rim, rust cannot be prevented and the rust flakes cause the punctures....
Must say this sounds a plausible explanation. I was so glad to get rid of my rusty TLC splits on old XSs which punctured often for no visible reason (ie, probably a rubbing rust flake) But I also think early inexperience made me run those tyres too low in the desert for too long. Went BFG tubeless on new rims and no more punctures which is why I am tempted to go TL on the lorry for hopefully the same results. Never heard of o-rings for splits but they could be an answer. Although on the last trip with the MAN, 18 year old XLs with cracks but amazingly no punctures (in the desert). I think truck tyres are a whole lot tougher/thicker - yes, really! ... if not how do you break the bead and... There is no bead - that's the point with splits; they can be taken apart by hand, theoretically. But the first time after original factory fitting can be hard work as we all know, usually due to rust. nigel_all - how much and where did you get your new XZLs? They are over 500 quid for mine - each! Ch Just had a lovely coffee @ the Portuguese cafe on the corner. May have a sandwich later. |
O-rings
They're not O-rings as such but (at least on my Merc wheels) rather more flexible beading material that that sits-from memory-between the rim and the ring, though I could be wrong about that. I remember though that you need to shove a load of that hard soap stuff on the bead material and indeed on the tyre bead as well.
Now I'm off for a coffee too Q |
You have to remember that the torque of the engine is going through the wheels and then tyres. So the tyre has to be pretty much 'stuck' on, other wise the wheel would spin IN the tyre when you put your foot down. Although, this can happen at low tyre pressures anyway (beadlockers!)
I have found that tyres that have only been on for a year or less are easier to get off. If they've been on for a long time they tend to be seized on. And yes, the tubeless rims do have a lip to hold the tyre. Tubed don't, they are a simple profile. Cheers, Matt, wishing I had nice coffee in my office :( got hot chocolate though :) |
Coffee or tea?
After running Goodyear (tubed) tyres in lorries here in Ghana (1000 tyres per annum) the Goodyear guys tried to convince us to go tubeless... Disaster! Due to people not checking pressures side walls were popping (well, exploding!) like bubble wrap!!! The tubed (known brand) truck tyres also didn't do so well. We now import Ukrainian tyres (Rossava) by the container load - $150 a tyre and "almost" (relative term for Ghanaian lorry drivers) indestructable.
Goodyear Africa admit they are still trying to work out why a cheap and cheerful Ukranian special should outperform them... Oh yes, and a consumption of 1000 tyres is a LOT of tyre changing and punctures... 12 years I have been here x 1000 tyres per year + God alone knows how many punctures, no inflation cage and we have never had anyone injured by a flying ring! Not really sure what my point is, but thought it was quite 'interesting' to write this out while sipping West Africa's cheapest Nescafe, Gil forgot to mention the only other tyre we found to be comparable to the killer from Kiev was a Michelin XZY |
There we have it, the Flying Ring has spoken. I'm going to quote you in my next book so don't get decapitated in the meantime.
Ch Just made myself a banana milk shake followed by a couple of bananas as they were all on the turn. Now the fridge is bare. |
this thread is turning very amusing and yet instructive that I thought I will also try to contribute with my two cents.
having driven trucks for some years in South America and Africa my experience is that tubeless is the way to go, if you keep the right pressure and look for side damages (every morning with the daily check) you very very rarely will puncture or blow a tyre, and If you drive with at least 2 spares, you don't really need to fight against rims, rings and leavers, you just pay 10$ to a local tyre workshop and let him do the hard work while you drink a cold beer (keeping an eye that they don't overtight the bolts) ----- an old truck driver told me once that if you run on low pressure on sand/mud with truck tyres you should make a cross mark on the side with a warm knife, then those tyres should never be used again as a front tyres when you drive on asfalt again (I don't think you need to do that with a Michelin and I'm thinking that that's probably the big difference between a XZY/XZL with 12 ply on the sides and all the others...) OK, time for my Dioralyte, grey, no sugar please... |
The flying ring...
Just finished a bottle of cheap Pino Grigio from Lidl, it was 'ok' I guess.
That's it! Cheers, Matt Next is a nice hot cup of tea in the morning.... |
More on Flying rims...
To continue the "informative but daft" vein of this discussion I was talking to our vulcanisers today. I was doing further research about flying rings and dangers associated with... We got onto the subject of mounting tubeless tyres, and I pointed to a Nissan pickup tyre and rim combo that was "freshly prepared" (read: bald as a coot with wires hanging out and obviously lubed with GREASE). I asked why such a bad choice of lubricant, and why we never order proper tyre lubricant (french soap I think?). Anyway, believe it or not the answer was as follows:
"We used da grease 'cause we ran out of Kenkey and de manager no go give us money for more kenkey" Now, at this point I doubled over and almost wet myself laughing!!! Why? Kenkey (pronounced "kinky") is a semi-fermented paste made from mashed manioc and plantains... Terrible stuff, but is actually a cheap staple food. And we use it to mount tyres - Fantastic! Chris - please make it clear in the new book that the possible dangers of bodily injury from flying rings can be greatly reduced by covering everything in pounded plantains. But on a serious note, if you are stuck for tyre lube in Africa - now you know a solution! I have actually decided to share a few pictures of hilarious 'bush' solutions to vehicle problems, will get some up on the net and put a link, Cheers (off to pour a stiff G&T matched with a small bowl of olives) Gil |
Just thought I'd update this thread as I actually got round to swapping my tyres today - I think I'd been subconsciously putting the job off in case my complacency came a cropper and the things were well stuck on!
But no, as I said before the truck in general has got lots of surface rust after our Maroc trip in January and I last changed the tyres four years ago but the split rims came apart just as easily as before. Well, you do forget (I do anyway!) so it's nice to find I did remember right. The outer rim just lifted off once the locking ring was prised off, so the outer bead was quite free. I did find the inner bead a little tight but it only needed a few blows with a rawhide hammer to release the tyre, although I will admit my lorry-type slide-hammer bead "knocker" was coveniently placed in easy reach just in case...... There was no sign of rust on either bead surface and only light surface rust on outer rim and locking ring mating surfaces as usual. There is no bead moulding or ledge on the wheel and as I said in my earlier post the only difficulty is in guiding the tube's rather long 'S'-shaped valve stem out of the hole in the wheel without damaging it. If it wasn't for that the tyre would just slide straight off easily. I appreciate Matt's comment on the chances of the wheel turning inside the tyre but it's never happened to me even on low pressure in sand - that would have had the valve ripped out in a second but all are still square and central in the hole. Also, to reiterate, I don't need to use any tyre soap or any other lubricant and only paint the visible surfaces of the outer rim and ring. And seeing as I am actually writing this post you can assume that I still have my head firmly on my shoulders. I still use the ratchet strap but only because of the wholly irrational fear that the dreaded flying ring will get me the very first time I dare to try it without just to show me who's boss, but it really shows no sign of danger. The ring design on my wheels is such that I reckon you'd be hard put to get it to fly off during inflation even if you were deliberately tring to make it happen! Didn't get back 'till almost ten so the Waitrose Cumberland Pie and glass of Stella were really appreciated. Nigel PS Should be off to Bad Kissingen in 'Mavis' the Iveco camper next week for the Abenteuer Allrad - www.abenteuer-allrad.de so I hope I don't have to eat my words re punctures............... See you all there? |
I've living in Africa for the last 3 years and I travel +/- 10,000kms every year on extended safaris. I have always run tubed XZLs and they've been great - even when they've been bald as a babies bum. Yes I've had flats, some trips I can drive 5000kmwithout one and then on the return I'll get one every thousand k but I put that down to low quality tubes (and yes - the every present rust!).
But, what is so inconvenient though about changing a tyre? With a hi-lift, bead breakers and fairy liquid I get the job done in about 15minutes and it gives my wife the chance to make a brew so it's just another part of the journey for my family. The only real problem I have with tubed tyres is availability, plugging and tubing can always be done in emergencies but I seen two Cooper STs split right across the tread width after they hit just one too many of EA's potholes at just too much speed. Driver error I hear you cry! Poor quality yank tyres I hear others but the upshot of it was that the guy had to wait 2 days whilst they flew replacement tyres in from Nairobi - not a cheap deal - and he was very lucky to be in a place where he could do that. I personally do not think you cannot beat standard sizes (750/16) and old technologies for getting you out of deep do-do. The 750/16 is ubiquitous across EA and SA and you are never short of labour for beating those rims into shape if you're more seriously pranged. The Flying ring must be an urban myth dating from the old trans-continental trucker days - I've never experienced, seen one or head about a rim pop off. |
It is no urban myth about rings popping off :thumbup1: I had a blow out on a articulated trailer years ago (they don't use split rims anymore in the UK) and I was passing another truck at the same time, the ring blew off and damaged the truck I was overtaking, we both ended up on the hard shoulder with flat tyres :helpsmilie: Also ALL the tyre fitters/dealers had a strong steel cage in which to blow truck tyres up :thumbup1: Health and safety has not yet reached Africa, the cage is probably more expensive than the poor person fitting the tyre :nono: Please do not become complacent when working with high air pressures :nono:
Trophymick |
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I'd like a beadbreaker (maybe visiting Mr Savages stall again next year at Billing...) but i just use my hi-lift under the bumper of my rover, and the lower foot to push the bead off. |
am I doing something wrong?
So I tried today to split my wheel.....well it took two of us, one with experience!! my Iveco rims are just two piece and the ring was incredibly difficult to lever over the edge. am I doing something wrong I thought split rims were supposed to be a one man job.
Nigel yours you said were easy are they different on the WM version? More advice please!!?? Graeme |
Two piece? Mine are three piece, that is, the wheel, the outer rim, and the split locking ring. Once the tyre is deflated, lay it flat, outer uppermost, a couple of well-aimed blows with a rawhide hammer should free off the outer rim, hold it down with a tyre lever down so you can get at the end of the locking ring which should have a notch in it into which you can put the end of a suitable lever (prybar is good) and firkle the end of the locking ring over the wheel. Mine also has a small chamfer to get you started. It's a knack but once started the ring should come off progressively easier as you go clockwise. Then lift off the outer rim and turn the wheel over, a few more blows with the hammer/tyre lever should dislodge the inner bead and the wheel falls out.
However I'm beginning to think my WM wheels may well be different as eveyone else seems to be struggling! My mate is a big Iveco fan with several Dailys, 2WD and 40.10's and I know he changed some tyres recently; I'll give him a ring tomorrow and let you know what he said. In the meantime I have one more wheel tomorrow to do so I'll take some pics if it helps - I still have your email address from last time we communicated. But we are off to Germany for the Bad Kissingen meet on Tuesday so apologies if I don't find the time to do the pics. Back the week after, though. Cheers Nigel |
A few tips from my experiences of TLC splits
These were rusty old second hand rims and the on the first change even the garage struggled to seperate the rims! since then life has got easier. One thing I found was that you have to remove the valve core to ensure the tyre is absolutely empty, otherwise it tends to grip the rim. Now I have a bead breaker I bought on ebay which is great, before that I tried the highlift thing, but didn't like it, the force is very localised and I was sure it must be doing damage to the tyre wall. I tried driving over the tyre, which kind of worked, but driving up a piece of wood resting on the tyre was better, but bead breakers are definately the way to go. with regard to your ring exploding (ooh matron!) I just rest the wheel against one of the wheels on the truck so that is the ring blows off it will harmlessly batter another wheel. I only use commercial tubes and heavy duty tyre flaps which seem to help with punctures. we ran two landcruisers thorough west Africa, one on tubed splitties, the other on tubeless steels and there was no real difference in the number of punctures. Andy TLC H60 eBay UK Shop - Captain Moggy's Surplus Store: military Trousers, Webbing and Rucksacks, Boots |
They are different!
Hi Nigel, My rims are different than yours, they are only two piece! a later version so I am told, that is earlier split rims were 3 piece. What a drag if it makes them more difficult. I remember a friends magirus deutz being really easy, just like you say yours is.
Graeme |
Hi Graeme
Ah, there we go! I had a feeling I was different from everyone else (been like that since I was about three......)! It certainly makes life easier for me when it comes to tyre swaps! I've emailed you the pics of mine anyway although it's only of acadamic interest now. I didn't manage to get hold of my friend today but I'll try again, he has the 'civilian' Daily 4x4 like yours so probably the same rims, and did swap some tyres a week or so ago. I'll see if he has any good tips. Cheers Nigel |
two piece rims
Has anyone got experience with two piece split rims? it seems to be a lot harder than three piece
Graeme |
tyre help desperatly needed
Hi
Im confused just had a friend around whos been fitting tyres for 20 years for a national firm and infomed me the xzl s I have bought have the wrong angle to go on my iveco civie splt rims. also said that I lorry tyres are tougher? Want to be leaving the country next week for india. What should I do new wheels new tyres splits or solids. Van weighs in at 4.12 tons edging towards the limit of 7.5 xzl any one got any comments. thanks mark |
Well i'm taking them (zxl) off the split rims on my truck so I guess luke wore them out on the split rims
What does he mean by 'wrong angle' I've got both the 2 piece and 3 piece splits on my truck - havn't had an issue with them (well taking them to bits - havn't reassembled them yet) - they are easier than my unimog rims on the 101 landrover which were one piece but big tough tyres to remove Load index is 116n (1250kg) so 5 tonne on 4 corners on xzl - the military are major users of these tyres so i'd guess they are pretty strong I have xy's on my truck on the split rims and they are fine |
Want to try doing the splits?
Hi all,
FWIW, I've got a set of 5 split rims & tyres for sale. Brand new, 5 stud genuine Toyota fitted with brand new 7.50-16 tyres. Happy trails, Jojo |
...Pesa Ngapi?
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Hi All
Let me be a bit clearer, my mate and his colleagues are saying that the 1. the angle on the inner edge is will not be suitable for iveco split rims. 2 The height of the ring is to great and will project up the wall of the tyre to far. Going to phone iveco and and michelin today for clarification. But it appears that the proof is in the driving and people appear to have got on with them ok. thanks Mark |
I've just been to look at spare tyres i have in the garage
The Avon Rangemasters I have are exactly the same angle and rim space as the xy sitting next to it so I don't see what they are looking at. Ive also checked the xy against the worn xzl and they are the same I havn't got a landrover rim without a tyre on it at present so i can't compare them Interesting link on rim types Rims, Tubes and Flaps :. Bridgestone South Africa Can you post a picci of your wheels ? Rich |
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Hi Noel, BFG A/T by any chance ? 'vette |
Jambo!
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Nakutaia siku njema |
Hi great little explanation on how to change tyres on a spilt rim
Split Rims time to try it I think Mark |
Mambo rafiki! Habari yaku?
Been using them for years - personaly I love 'em - tyrepliers help though - let me weigh up the cost, where are they? |
Splits
Mzuri sana!
We're near Market harborough, Leicestershire. Jojo |
For some reason my subscription to this thread is not working...sorry.
I don't currently have the cash but I would like these - please post if you sell them or take them off the market. |
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