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I got some thin (about 2-3mm)foam from a car boot sale. Ideal for the sides, needed something a bit more robust in the bottom. Similar stuff is sold for putting under laminate flooring - try your local DIY warehouse. Good solution - only marginally dearer than bubblewrap!
Any form of painting is likely to crack when the pannier gets bashed about, in my opinion. A friend had a set powder coated inside - didn't work out at all well. Good luck, Neil |
powder coating? its still giving me nightmares. grizzle, growl, mutter, mutter, hate the stuff ;-)
I should never have tried it: it looks rubbish, makes a mess of everything and flakes off when you bash the box. the latest problem is that it has chipped off the top lips of the Touratech boxes and lets water past the seal so I'm having to polish it off to restore the seal. ah well |
OK - quick update!:
After a week swanning around France with my newly hammerited (new word!) panniers, I found that every item of clothing reeked of Hammerite. I decided to strip it all off, polish the outside, and line the inside with adhesive film, as suggested by someone else (Woolworths, currently half price by the way). It seems to be working fine - the contents don't go black or smell, and its fairly durable. I suppose time will tell how they hold up in the long run, although the exterior is still untreated. As long as I wash 'em regularly they should be fine... |
Just done 3 weeks in Morrocco and Spain with Zega cases that I had anodised before fitting. I was very impressed with the finish, both inside (no black stuff) and outside (easy to clean). It cost UKP 25 at the local anodisers, but I had to take the locks off myself (as they contain steel parts) and refit them after the anodising. Highly recommended.
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how about walpapering them, after a few months wash em out with water and the wall paper will come off, then re-apply.
here's another one, go to a fishing tackle store and buy 2 holding nets. Put the nets in the panniers and you can put your stuff in the nets. the good thing is the stuff is not sealed so will air out, it can move so won't rub etc.. and you can pull the stuff out at the end of the day so secirity is not an issue. The nets may need a bid of modification but hey if your hungry you can always fish too ! |
Howdy fellow travellers, on my first 'serious' attempt at touring I lined my panniers with quarter inch plywood. It worked well enough but proved to be a bit too thick. I've used both 3mm plywood and laminated ply on subsequent panniers to good effect. Fixing the liner to the ally proved a problem though, contact adhesive (Evostick) worked well but was prone to damp and also created a condensation problem, other glues and fixatives were tried but the best so far has been to make the liners into boxes that slide into the ally panniers, with care you can get a surprisingly good fit (they can double-up as carrying cases too) and I've used them for a long time. One other small point: Give thought to getting any water OUT of the panniers once its got in (heavy rains or your bike falling over while crossing that river (in my case it was a little stream!) My solution was to 'steal' an idea from a small sailing boat I used in Grenada, they have small holes with a 'flap valve' in the stern that is held closed by a small light weight spring, the forward moyion of the boat forced the water out. Fitted to the rear pannier wall they work in the same fashion. It works well and only needs the closing face of the valve to be 'oiled' occasionally to keep the seal good. Hope this helps.
Cheers, Oletimer '83 GL1100A Gold Wing |
Just to add my 2p worth - anodizing.
Mine have been anodized since the beginning in 1986, still in perfect condition inside, still no black marks. I powder coated the outside white, and on the outside it works fine. (You can't get anodizing in a true "white" colour. The anodizer will say yes they do white - but that's clear to them. You do have to remove all hardware, but that's not usually too difficult. And the price is reasonable for a permanent,no hassle finish. I don't know why the manufacturers don't at least offer it as an option new. You could even get colours, red, blue, gold etc. If you're making panniers, it's a no-brainer, go for anodizing. Otherwise there seems to be enough options above for anybody! Great ideas guys! ------------------ Grant Johnson Seek, and ye shall find. ------------------------ One world, Two wheels. www.HorizonsUnlimited.com |
ive recently had some excellent panniers made in sydney...copied off tesch (dont tell bernd)..
im planning on lining mine with fibreglass, not only will it give added strength,water proofing it will stop the tarnishing.. however you have to use a lightweight cloth similar to that used to make surf boards... brilliant stuff but you gotta act fast when doing it... ...happy travels...phil. |
Strongly recommend you don't line it with fiberglass - it will stink up your gear forever, (heat in an enclosed space - trust me on this, btdt with fiberglass panniers) and if the box is dented, it cracks and the vibration causes it to sheds fiberglass powder into everything, again forever.
Anodizing is the best, and easiest, and strengthens the box too. If your boxes are 2mm or better they are plenty strong enough. Mine are only 1.5mm, and fine with anodizing. Stick on kitchen shelf liner next best. ------------------ Grant Johnson Seek, and ye shall find. ------------------------ One world, Two wheels. www.HorizonsUnlimited.com |
actually the glassing was too much of a pain anyway...
i just ended up using clear platic book contact... easy ,simple cheap. |
wrinkle paint................spray it on and throw it in the oven overnight at 125 degrees to bake it on. repeat process the next night. inexpensive way to powdercoat. K
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My oven isn't big enough.
Also - very abrasive on your stuff, no? |
Ive got some Touratech panniers, they wanted something like £50 each for tailored bags that fit inside. I went to the market and bought 2 canvass shopping bags for £1 each. They fit almost perfect.
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sorry, don't know the size of your panniers, but the oven racks should remove to give you enough space i would think. and no............it gives you a very smooth finish. i also sprayed one part with a clear coat enamel as i wanted a high gloss, extra waterproofing feature. i did this on my speedo cover that sits between the two gas tanks. it is now 4 years old and still looks great after the sun, rain, odd gas splash and also ignition keys hitting it occasionally. there is also another thought i had, maybe someone knows this paint process, the name escapes me. i had an old panhead that i had painted with an electo-static(?) finish. when the paint is sprayed on and an electric charge put on it, it causes the paint to become velvet-like in texture. it was great and very durable for repelling scratches, oil, gas and small knocks and bumps. but i don't know if it would be compatable on aluminum. just a thought, K
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