Carrying spares - what's the go?
 

Starting to acquire bits and pieces for an upcoming trip 15,000+kms.
Besides fuses and bulbs what have people taken with them. My trip will be mainly tarmac but there'll be a few thousand kms of dirt in there also.

I'm thinking wheel bearings, oil filters, chain links, clutch cable, levers and tubes. Does anyone consider anything else as essential?

If this has been done to death in other threads just post a link in the reply. I had a good look around and couldn't find much.

What's the bike, where are you going?

Well that depends on your bike. What are you riding ????

15,000 KM. You won't need as much as you think.

Change your bearings before you go and you wont have a problem. Same with your chain and sprockets if you have them. Chain oiler is a great idea here.

It's more important to have your bike prepped and in top condition before you leave than to carry everything to sort it on route.

I'd carry spare clutch and throttle 'Pull' cable. Also spare brake and clutch lever.

Fuses and bulbs like you say. I always take a selection of nuts & bolts too.

Zip ties are a must too...


And a proper puncture kit and spare tubes if you're running them.

Triumph Tiger 800xc
Russia Mongolia Kazakhstan and Northern Europe UK
Starting Vladivostok in May 16

If you're taking a bevel Ducati, take a spare crank. Otherwise as Ted says, get your bike in good shape before you go. I did a similar length trip recently in Southern Africa on my 18 year old GS and needed nothing at all- only spares I took were a spare clutch cable (would have taken levers but they are HOW MUCH???) a couple of bulbs and a small box with epoxy paste, some tape, zip ties etc. Before I left I did a full service; all fluids, cables, pads, filters etc, basically preventative maintenance. Had the rear shock rebuilt and a heavier spring fitted. I was stretching the oil change interval a bit, but the bike seems fine after a thorough service and unfortunately doesn't even look like it's been anywhere...

By the looks of your trip, you're riding into civilization rather than away from it. Best way when considering spares and servicing.

Have had the suspension done recently.
The throttle cable is something I haven't considered
Bikes only got 5000kms on it at the moment and won't have a lot more on it before I go. That said will do chain and sprockets and full service

Unless it's fly by wire..

I know it's pretty pointless taking stuff that you don't know how to fit or repair and not everyone knows about electrics. Even so, reasoning that most electrical breakdowns are as a result of something simple such as a broken wire, bad connection or corroded earth I always carry a length of wire with small crocodile clips on both ends and some crimp connectors. A miniature multimeter is always handy. Even if you don't know how to use it more often than not somebody who does will offer some help.

The list of other stuff you could carry to effect electrical repairs at the roadside is quite long but, along with the items above, some snips and self amalgamating tape should suffice.

I would not worry too much. Its a Triumph not a BMW so the only thing needet is to refil petrol and in case of an accedent or so russian people are great when it comes to repair technik. The older the better...

The Trumpy has fuel injection and ABS but nothing else i.e. no traction control or cruise control. Also the frame's steel so if something cracks it can be welded.

Thanks for the responses guys a few things in there I'll definitely consider.

Closer to departure I'll post up the full list of bits that'll be going with me

What year is your Tiger?

Just be aware of the dusty stepper motor/idle issue, upgrade the air filter and carry a spare ready to go, use filter skins, like the guys say, start with new consumables and you should be good. Id probably carry a set of front and rear brake pads, spare plugs, voltmeter, liquid metal, extra fuses, tape, cable ties, hose clamps, 2x front and 2x rear tubes, compressor, hand pump, one of those microstart boosters and fit a new battery before the trip.

Id also ride the Tiger hard at home and see if you have any issues before the trip starts.

Have a good trip!

I've got 2 Unifilter foam pre-filters that work really well at protecting the main paper filter.
A lot of people suggest brake pads. I'm not convinced that I'm going to chew through pads touring. Will replace before I go and am confident they'll last until Europe.
might do a little research on the microstart boosters
Cheer
BR

From reading the 800 Tiger forums, all above is spot on. I nearly bought a Tiger so read Tiger forums for a year or so and the stepper motor issue was about the only issue. Lots of dirt can mess things up.

Rear pads only, (but start with NEW fronts) Rears wear fast riding Mud.

Bring a nice nut/bolt/misc kit of your common sizes, plus a few odd springs, O rings, whatevers. :thumbup1:
Small elec kit, small VOM (meter). Good rain gear, elec. jacket liner (Gerbing) consider HID kit for at least one of your headlights. (brighter, uses less current)

Two part JB Weld is good for a lot of things. Spare tubes a must (not ULTRA HD ones too bulky). On the road, try to have VULCANIZED patches done (tire shop) rather than the crap stick on ones that don't hold long. I never patch a tube on side of road, just replace with new spare tube but take care the flat tube, have it repaired later with Vulcanized patch. Good as new if done right.

In remote areas tubes can be like Gold.

At such low mileage I would not worry about broken cables unless that is something that fail in the Tiger. (I never heard anything about that)

Go over luggage carefully, Loc Tite some nuts/bolts.

I swap my tubes for extra heavy duty and carry standard ones for spares. As mollydog days, Heavy duty tubes as spares are way too bulky.

Roadside patches can be permanent but it depends on a lot of things. I carry a proper tin of 'tip top' vulcanising solution and quality patches. I prefer to swap a tube and repair it at the end of the day but sometimes you get multiple punctures so dont get that choice.

Mistakes I see are people not cleaning the tube enough and not waiting long enough for solution to dry. I've got tubes hanging on my wall that I repaired on the road in Tanzania 6 years ago and they're good as new.

I've also had patches fall off every 30 minutes when forced to buy cheap rubbish.

Fronts you will probably get away with for 15,000kms, but rear pads will get more grit, dust and water on them, which acts like grinding paste, as they are quite a bit smaller than the front pads and you will be using the rear a lot on gravel/dirt roads they will wear quite quickly.

As MD and TT say, fit HD tubes, pack standard tubes, use Rema 'Tip Top' tube repair kits, take several extra tubes of the vulcanizing glue.

That's a fair point regarding the pads. Cheap insurance and easy to carry.

Tubes wise, I always run HD tubes and carry the originals. Have done a few multi day outback trips to rocky and dusty places. Wouldn't run any more than HD though, UHD are too heavy and heat up too much on prolonged highway running and degrade. HD tubes are really only needed when running lower pressures to hinder pinch flats. They ain't gonna stop a nail any less than the standard tubes.

Has this been tested or proven ??

I know they run a bit warmer, but degrade ???

Butyl tends to give more when it's warmer. It's more flexible and less likely too tear I would think.

I have no way to back this claim up though.

I believe Ted's correct here. YES, UHD tubes will get hot ... but would take months ... or years to actually degrade.

I've run across Death Valley and through Nevada's open spaces at 100 mph or better. 100F temps. YES ... things get very HOT but not to the point of real degradation of the rubber. (assuming tube in question is not 5 years old!doh)

But Barney's got it right, UHD are overkill and hard to fit, patch and carry. HD? maybe, but for me and many, I start off with an HD tube fitted but only carry standard weight, good quality spare tubes. I carry one 21" (front fender) and two 17" in luggage. I prefer natural rubber tubes when available but some Butyl ones really are OK too ... but tricky to patch.

I always try to save a tube if possible but sometimes you have to ride a flat for 50 miles ... so sure death to that tube. If you can stop right away and change it, good chance it may be saved to patch later. :D

Common sense dictates that you should carry ordinary tubes to save space. Fit HD or MD tubes but as said, these offer no more protection againt a puncture from a nail but do help prevent compression punctures when running low pressures which you don't normally, when travelling with luggage. I don't really see much point in carrying 2 spare rear tubes and can't envisage circumstances when you can't repair a puncture when it happens rather than driving 50 miles on a flat tyre. It is important that you carry tubes that are easily and reliably repaired (rubber) and you have good quality patches and vulcanising solution to repair them. UHD tubes are overkill but if you insist on using them then make sure you generously coat the inside of the tyre with french chalk which will reduce the friction between the tyre and tube and help to prevent overheating.

Overkill my arse. Only ever run UHD. There is no 17" UHD so ran HD on that on my old bike. Guess which wheel had the flat. Rears would get more flats but still. Thicker lasts longer too I feel.

Actually, UHD or HD tubes CAN sometimes prevent a puncture, not necessarily a BIG nail, but often you get lucky with a staple, small nail or Cactus spine.

I've removed tires (worn out) and found Spines and other sharp embedded things inside my tire that DID NOT puncture through my UHD tube. :thumbup1:

But you are correct, a big nail at the right angle is going straight through.
Mousse Bib anyone? :rofl:

On Baja rides going back to the 1980's (at least 12 trips) Tubes have been one of the most common problems we've had. I've seen countless patches fail, multiple flats from Cactus spines. Some occasions we ended up riding DIFFICULT trail AT NIGHT ... because stopping to fix the flat took so long. Cold, dark, dangerous. Not everyone has ISDE tire changing skills. :(
https://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/p.../i-84x6Ck6.jpg
Steep, hard up hill, not fun AT NIGHT.

Tubes can be repaired if close to town or if you have LOTS OF TIME. But if 30-40 miles from anything ... then spare tubes are life savers. Often, a tube may be destroyed from a puncture, split, no saving it. Especially true if you don't notice the flat right away, as with riding deep sand you may not feel it and your tube is chewed up and ruined. Seen this MANY times. (how many spare tubes you got mate? :smarts:)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I...93_UKNNH-L.jpg
Flat tire? Huh? What flat tire?

NEXT: often guys will cut a tube doing removal or install. Seen this SO MANY TIMES! doh AND:You always need a spare tube for your buddy. bier We always use the buddy system.

Yes, having quality patch kit is vital! ... and knowing how to prep the tube for a patch. REAL RUBBER! Yes! But even so, many times patches DO NOT stay for long. Either poor technique, poor materials, or very bad riding conditions.

Other thing not brought up here is SLIME. SLIME is the gooey Green stuff you put in your tube BEFORE you get a flat. In many cases SLIME (or other similar product like Ride-On) can seal a puncture hole.

Especially good against small punctures (thorns, spines, staples, sheet rock screws, small nails) SLIME does not always work but can sometimes at least slow down air loss, allowing you to get to a good place to do a repair (or have it done)Sometimes it 100% stops leak, other times ... not at all. I use it and have done for 20 years. With luck, SLIME can help you.

NOTE: Patching a tube with SLIME inside is quite difficult (impossible?).
A normal bicycle type patch will NOT stick when SLIME is present. If cleaned off really well, a 3rd world HOT patch will work. (a true vulcanizing patch where fire is used) SLIME is water soluble, but since it's INSIDE, hard to fully clean out.

So ... if your tube with SLIME goes flat, don't waste time trying to patch it road or trail side. Take it out and put in your spare. What's that you say? You're only carrying one Spare? So now ... you have NO MORE SPARES? :nono:

Above scenarios are why I carry 3 tubes on board. Had too many weird situations where tubes are ruined or used up ... with NO more spares available. Hate the feeling knowing that if you get another flat, you are screwed. :nuke:
Sometimes, if you have NO spare, you can ride your flat tire to help.
But some bikes are hard to ride flat ... and off road this can get even tougher.
Been there, done it. Horrible ... like 5 hours to make 10 miles. doh

People I know who have done RTW used UHD and they didn't get a single flat. Even riding a lot of off-road.

Over the years I've run both UHD and HD. I now prefer HD tubes over UHD.
Do you carry spare UHD on board your bike? Some are ginormous monsters to pack. True, they last a long time but IMO, are a PITA to deal with roadside.

Metzeler, Michelin and Bridgestone HD tubes I like best. Thick, strong but not so hard to install. All quality real rubber. Here we get MSR tubes (MSR here means Malcolm Smith Racing). Real rubber, inexpensive, good quality. (Japan made)

I do think it's smart to start off with a UHD if doing ONLY very rough, high speed off road. I just don't want to be the guy who has to change it out or repair! doh

My response was aimed at the OP who says his trip is mainly tarmac. I assumed that he would avoid tackling difficult trails after dark. Always best to practice puncture repairs before you set off to improve your skill and test all your kit works properly.

Fitting UHD or HD is a matter of personal choice. For the off road part of the trip tyre choice is still probably more important than tube preference but it all depends on what type of trail you are expecting to encounter - which you probably won't know until you get there, which, after all, is the main reason for going travelling by bike.

No, only start off with UHD. Carry standard. Brand is key. Vee sucks. I'll stay away if I can. Just because they're all black doesn't make it all the same quality rubber.

Wear on tubes includes the little balls it develops inside it. The thicker the more it can wear is my thinking. Rode from Dublin to Vlad on UHD through Kazakhstan and Mongolia without a single flat.

I don't even try patching UHD. I hear patches don't stick to it, but I don't even bother. Bit like sticking a plaster onto an elephant.

I'll be fitting these to my TT600 for my trip out to Mongolia.

http://www.zenoverland.com/tyres_tub...uhd_tubes.html

I have this same UHD Michelin front sitting in my garage now. It's a massively thick thing. You will be stunned when you see it. Stiff as a board, but quality all the way. I've never used it as never planned on such rugged trips that would require it. It's natural rubber so should be patchable.

Maybe tire guys in the far East still use the old (and illegal in USA) fashioned Vulcanized patch ... where they glob some flammable goop onto tube and patch and set it afire .. literally melts tire and patch as one. If done right, truly permanent.

No idea what's used in those parts now, but that method would be my choice over some scuff & stick bicycle patch ... which I've never had much luck with on motorcycle tubes.

:scooter:

I use this stuff in my workshop for repairs. Never had a tube/patch fail yet.
http://www.workshopping.co.uk/produc...FYWfGwodCJEDbQ

The trick is cleaning the tube.

This is what Rema sell in USA, which one would be best to use?
http://www.rematiptop.com/parts.php?sid=11

Could be "the best" are disallowed due US EPA restrictions ?
Our stuff is probably "kindergarten safe to eat". doh (but won't hold a patch on!)

It's probably safer than half the food on US supermarket shelves.. :p

when ever you can get it, run with some injector cleaner .

Injector/Carb cleaner is a good idea ... just don't over use it.

If you can identify a really excellent local product, then buy that and use it every
two or three tank fill ups.

Mexico can have some nasty gas, so I just bring a little pint bottle of Sea Foam and sometimes a small bottle of Techron (made by Chevron). Both are good at reducing Varnish build up, dissolving bits of crud and keep injectors and jets clean. But even with all that ... you can still get this after 10K miles:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c...P1000471_2.JPG
IMS Petcock filter on my DR650. Good news is I have two additional filter in line ... but carb STILL got crap in it.

Best to filter fuel through a nylon stocking or filter when feasible, especially true if sourcing from oil drums, plastic containers or in very rural areas. It will take an extra minute but could pay off later with less maintenance. bier

Awesome feedback and advice in here peoples.
Thanks.
Even with the inner tube digression :tongue_smilie: this site proves yet again to be gold for help and advice unlike other forums which you'd be belittled and ridiculed in "friendly banter".
If anyone else has anything else to add on the spares/parts front chime in.:thumbup1:
Cheers
BR

I've just changed my mind on those UHD tubes. I pulled one out of my shed. It's more like a tyre than a tube haha. Can't be bothered with punctures on that. I'll have no skin left on my knuckles after a few repair jobs.

I've just ordered some Michelin Heavy Duty ones. About £12 each. I'll carry the old originals as spares.

What brought that on?

Hi

I am sorting my parts and spares for me Cape to Cairo in 7 weeks.

On my list I have liquid/chemical metal, radiator sealant and patches/tube repair kit.

Ive never bought or used any of these (always just change the tube at home).

Can anyone point me in the right direction of specific products (i'm in the UK)? I am travelling light so small is good.

Cheers
Andy

Hi Andy,

For patches and glue use Rema Tip Top, take quite a few extra small/medium size tubes of the patch glue, once they are opened they tend to dry out, so plenty of smaller tubes is better than carrying large tubes.
Radiator repair, Radweld used to be available in the UK, personally Id also carry a small roll of self flux solder and get the hole sealed up properly by anyone with a small blowtorch or soldering iron. Use JB weld or a similar product for the liquid metal repair.


Just to update, this seems to be a well used radiator/head gasket product, maybe not so easy to find in Europe though:


http://avenasolutions.com/hyper-seal...seal-gold.html

Sounds like a great trip, enjoy!

Thanks Gipper. I ordered the JB Weld and a patch kit. I'll order some more patches and glue (and hope it works like taking an umbrella at home - when you have it it never rains!).

I'll check out the rest too.

Cheers
Andy

If you were to plan travel on a BMW, suggest you carry a Honda!!
:blushing::D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

Hey Andy,
Having a good patch kit, knowing how to use it is important. Also, having natural rubber tubes helps as Butyl ones don't always hold a patch well.

A key thing: be aware of is what is going on where your riding. Are there tire kiosks in the small towns/villages? Often there are. Sometimes even ones that specialize in motorbikes or scooters. Some good, some not so good. ASK around.

TIP: Alway remove and re-install your wheel yourself ... but let workers break down the bead, pull tire and tube off and let them repair tube (if it's repairable!). Often these guys use old Vulcanizing method which if done right is amazingly effective.

See my post in this thread, post #22, page 2 for a bit more back ground on flats, repair, tubes and patching. I always try to get to a local repair guy if not too far. Yes, I ride it flat. If you destroy your tube by riding it flat, so be it. Better than sitting in the Desert in 40C struggling changing a flat.

I like Slime or Ride-On which should be installed BEFORE you get a flat. I can save you! It's NOT like Fix-A-Flat. Much better and often works. See above post for details.

Buy another spare as soon as you can. If you are short on tubes and can't get spares, then STOP and patch your tube ASAP, try to save it. Good tire irons a must ... and knowing how to use them.

I carry lots of spare tubes but am not crossing Africa! doh ... and you are!
Use caution. Take care of your Tires and Tubes!
All the best!

:scooter:

Carrying spares - what's the go?
 

Thanks Mollydog. This is the repair kit i bought, i'll try and find out if it is rubber.

Motorcycle Puncture Repair Kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004OX1K..._YT8hxb1H2Z0JS
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004OX1K..._YT8hxb1H2Z0JS

Details of the c-cure kit here: http://www.weldtite.co.uk/weldtite-puncture-repair/

I've used my tyre irons to change front a recent tyres recently to make sure they are up to the job.

I am also planning to carry to spare front (21') tubes and 1 rear (17') to give me a bit of wriggle room.

Levering off front tire is the easy one. It's the rear tire that is tough. Some skill, technique and practice helps here. doh Can be tough for a novice. doh

The patch kits look fine, but as said above, try to find local help. They are SO MUCH better at it than you and I! And it's usually super cheap. But very good for you to know how to do it ... alone on a lonely road in 40C temps. Prepping and roughing up the tube is the important part.

If me, I'd carry 2 front tubes and 2 rear tubes. Pack one front on front fender. And remember ... you can use a 21" tube in your rear tire if need be. YES, it works! Just be careful on install not to fold it onto itself.

NO, a 17" rear tube will NOT work in a 21" tire.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-9m9gmbT-L.jpg
Note front tube on front fender

Carrying spares - what's the go?
 

Sorry should have read "...change front and rear tyres..."

Will definitely use a local to repair when available and get a second 17' tube. The 21 goes into 17 but not vice versa was the rationale for taking 2 x 21'.

I get many more flat rear tyres compared to flat fronts. I have found most people have the same experience, only very few say they have more flat front than rears. So I'd practice on the rear tyre too - fiddling with the chain and brake and luggage makes it much more difficult just to get the tyre out! Then the rim has more of a lip to it, the tyre carcase is stiffer.. The job is much harder ... and you need to know how to handle that. Take your time, make any notes and stop and have a look from time to time. It is a learning thing ... not a speed test.

You may need some sort of Bead Breaker to help with rear tire changes. I use a BIG C clamp. Lots of options. Breaking the bead can be TOUGH.

Yes, a 21" front tube can work in your rear 17" tire ... but it's not ideal and should only be a temp fix until you can fit correct tube. NOTE: with most 17" tires, an 18" tube is also perfectly FINE. So, if looking for spare tube, either a good 17 or 18 will do the job.

What bike are you on?

bier

A KLR650 (2014 model)