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Dangerous Baja - tips on survival
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Dangerous Baja What does it take to explore Baja? Thousands "ride Baja" but most never venture off the highway and miss places only the quick and the dead have seen. Can you ride your fully loaded RTW "adventure bike" two up into deeper Baja? Or even one up? The short answer is no. Those that make such claims have never seen the real "Out Back" Baja. I've ridden Baja many times, mostly following the 1000 race course and never saw stuff like on this last ride. The difference? We had a AA level rider as our guide who has done Baja every year for the last 15 years. Many new trails have been discovered in the last 10 years but very few casual riders would ever discover them. We rode just a few of them and they kicked my out of riding shape butt. Baja has several easy dirt roads doable on a Vstrom, GS, Africa Twin, DR650, or other single but be careful where you choose to go if you're unsure about the route. Delve deeper and you'll find tracks with deep sand that goes for miles and miles... no I mean DEEP sand. No GS will pass on this type of deep sand. Rock trails to challenge David Knight and even hill climbs that are challenging, strewn with bowling ball sized rocks all the way up the mile long climb. This past trip taught me a few things. I still suck in deep sand and that I'm getting old and losing confidence in myself. I'm out of shape and overweight. None of this helps at all. Riding a bit drunk is actually a GOOD thing in some situations (for me!) bucking up your courage to stay on the throttle! :rofl: Sounds asinine but it worked pretty good for me :clap: I was also on the wrong bike. My great little XR250 is sprung too softly and lacks torque, making it harder than it should have been to ride in deep sand and tough in the rocks (too soft). A few test rides on my buddies WR450 and another's CRF250X quickly confirmed this and corrected all my problems. So I'm not a total squid but my conditioning should have been better. On the WR I did OK in Sand and floated over the rocks with much more confidence. We started at a friends house south of San Felipe, BC. We rode north and took the dump road out of San Felipe and onto the dry lake bed below the Picacho del Diablo (nose of the Devil) mountain. An easy ride from there climbing up to famous Mike's Sky Ranch at about 6000 ft. Mike's is no bargain these days at $60 per person (NOT per room) This does include two good meals but still is an out rage for Mexico. About 90% of the motel guests are with organized tours, like Chris Haines Tours, where riders pay $2000 for a three day all inclusive ride. (bike, meals, guides, 3 meals a day, hotel, extra bikes and mechanic, help in tough sections, airport transport et al and even a seat in the break down van for injured riders. Helicopter service too. Welcome to Disneyland Baja! :blushing: http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...11_3EpVq-L.jpg More later Patrick |
Day One -The Road to Mike's Sky Ranch
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The over loaded XR on the dry lake bed near San Felipe. More gear than I needed for a 10 day trip. I seem to have a real problem with overpacking. Maybe because I like clean under wear? or something to wear when we stop? Tools? Spares? Yep, got 'em all. Actually the bags only weigh about 15 lbs., I never knew they were there, but the wheel rubbed holes in both eventually! (big bumps at speed!). http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...51_Z6sX2-L.jpg Patrick abusing the little XR on the dry lake bed. This is great fun out there and easy. A good way to see Baja is to base camp out of different towns. Ride (or drive and take bikes) to a town on highway, camp or motel it. Leave most of your luggage there and do a ride for a day or two on lighter bikes, then return to the town and continue to next base camp town. Most Motels will allow storage of your stuff free of charge as long as you stay at least one night. Bay of Los Angeles is a great place to base out of. So is Loreto http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...50_UY4CG-L.jpg The road to Mike's Sky Ranch. Fun and easy. Pine trees in the desert? YES! You can camp near Mike's for free also. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...77_tuWr3-L.jpg Relaxing at Mike's .... Pool cannot be used. :thumbdown: |
Nice post, Parick, and some great pics.
As time goes on, off road Baja and the facilities there continue to become more of a N/A playground thing, and hence the pricing. No longer Kansas.... The sooner you do Baja, the better. I fcking hate s a n d ....:) |
Sand and more sand.
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Keep your speed up and your OK, don't brush those cactus! Sand is something many have to work at to master. For me its about focus and riding technique. Vision is key: Where you lookk matters. Look down in front of the bike and you're going down. Look well ahead, way ahead, and you should be OK. Stay balanced on the bike, grabbing tank with knees. Stand up of course. Although some can ride sand seated ... I cannot. Light grip on bars, elbows up, steer with your feet and knees. And the scariest part of all....go fast, real fast. Problem is the whoop de doos, sharp corners through wash outs mixed with deep sand. I found my XR250 does not work so great here. My buddies 450's are much better. Light and lots of torque. Hardly a wiggle. My XR did well almost everywhere else. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...69_TnC3C-L.jpg They are always there waiting...they can smell road kill from 20 miles away. On day two we left Mike's about 9am for an easy ride over to Valle de Trinidad, a nice dirt road through the mountains to Mex Highway 1, and then south a bit on pavement to Colonet. Here we rode beach south to Punta Camalu to a place called Pirates Cove, very near the town of Camalu. We found some nice dunes along the way. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...34_XeMnF-L.jpg Then rode along the beach and on cliffs above the beach for a while. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...54_PtAZP-L.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...62_o8CEy-L.jpg Riding the beach is great fun in Baja. Observe and respect private property, camper, fisherman and farmers. Also be aware of the tides. We nearly got trapped against a cliff. Radical tides can make some places impassable . Wash bikes well in fresh water after! Ignore this at your peril. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...51_3eWEj-L.jpg Day three took us back into the interior, heading south east. Bit of sand on the these two tracks through the cacutus forests. Stunning. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph..._3VQwc-L-1.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...88_uryGp-L.jpg Big groups are NOT a great idea in Baja. Slows things way down. We started out big but paired down quickly. We started with nine riders, after day one, down to seven riders. two days later the a CRF450X blew up and one of our WR450's was acting up. Both hitched a ride with a Canadian couple towing a trailer who offered a ride! This is common and easy in Baja. Hundreds of tourists up and down the road daily. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...59_brnd6-L.jpg IMO, Spring is the best time to see Baja. The desert in bloom is not to be missed. Temps are moderate. High winds can be the one gotcha. We had none on this ride but just two days before we arrived the wind blew like Hell. Early Spring (mid March to May 1st) is sort of Off Season....a good thing). More later, Patrick |
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Lovely photos. What caused the CRF to blow up? I'm still prepping mine for its overland trip so any breakdown feedback is useful. Thanks, Stephan |
Patrick,
Great post and pics! Looking forward to more. Jeff |
No worries Stephan, the CRF450X in question had been making some very funky noises long before this Baja trip. Instead of fixing it, he ignored it ....
The Yamaha ran OK but the trans may have had probs. With the CRF it was a little bearing up in the top end...something to do with the cam follower for the exhaust valves. Sorry I can't be more specific. Its a bit complex to look at and understand compared to the more ancient set up of my XR250. :rolleyes2: Unfortuneately, bits and pieces seemed to have dropped into the bottom end. Judging from the noises ....some may have been there for a while.:thumbdown: Check valve clearance regularly, change oil and you should be all good!:thumbup1: Good luck, safe riding! Patrick:mchappy: |
The sand tracks got worse but the trade off was incredible Boojum cactus forests made up for the suffering. The rock pile climbs and rocky deep sand sections kicked my butt but with help from the younger, fitter guys, I made it.
At 59 it's nice to have the 40 year old "kids" to help out. I am internally grateful. (or is that "Eternally") A few more random pics of Baja: http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...18_7sNhY-L.jpg Nopales http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...61_NqXRE-L.jpg My undoing .... this hill is MUCH steeper than it appears in pic! :eek3: http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...99_sNRXL-L.jpg Rocks get easier here, but torque is your friend. Here my buddy Kai rides my bike up, I took his WR450. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...45_g3SFR-L.jpg The group http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...77_yD56j-L.jpg Sandy two track best taken with speed. A steering damper really helps too! http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...90_9hyum-L.jpg Still alive at Bay of Los Angeles. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...19_PMX8w-L.jpg La Pinta in Catavina. Expensive but pretty nice. Eat across the highway. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...07_bEgto-L.jpg The cactus forests have never looked better. Check out the way gear is being carried. This was only a ten day ride and we had everything we needed including plenty of beer! All stuffed into back packs! http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...56_Mv86p-L.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...64_h6Ppb-L.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...59_oAmdA-L.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...2_MMmUk-XL.jpg More later, Patrick:scooter: |
Thanks for the inspirational pics. This place is on my destination list for sure!
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http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...8_g2Dnk-XL.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...64_H58XD-L.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...97_mgAEL-L.jpg Calamujue canyon http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...21_aC3nb-L.jpg Calamujue canyon goes from the desert to the sea, for about ten miles, through deep cuts in the rock cliffs. The canyon floor is a natural wet land feed by Springs that keeps it wet nearly year round. This is in deep contrast to the surrounding desert. The plume behind the bike is Water, not dust. The going is easy with only short stretches of deep sand, a few rocks but even an "average" rider can make this on a bigger bike. Heading north now from Bahia de Los Angeles. Through Calamujue canyon, to Coco's, Puertocitos and San Felipe. More pics to come. Patrick |
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Between Alphonsina and Puertocitos, over the road over the Gulf http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...03_jaN35-L.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...92_Kubdy-L.jpg Note Roberto with camera in his hand! http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...22_vh6ui-L.jpg Yet another prize winning Cactus http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...43_wThwq-L.jpg Good dry lakes like this one are great for practicing flat track skills. This one is about a mile south of the turn off for Coco's corner, just off the highway. |
Thanks for the report and pics Pat, sounds like you had fun!
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More Baja Tips: What's the best bike for Baja?
Hi Dave,
Thanks, glad you liked the pics. So what is the best bike for Baja? Like many such things there does not seem to be a definitive answer to this. One thing is fairly certain: if you intend to get into the more challenging and remote technical tracks then some sort of "real" dirt bike is called for. A fully loaded RTW bike is not going to cut it .....at least in some places. As Lone Rider always reminds me of : A bike only needs to be a problem for you for a couple hundred meters to ruin your whole day. That short stretch of deep mud or deep sand or impassable rocks or super step up or down can really mess you up ... or .... God forbid ....get you hurt. If you do take a fully loaded KLR or bigger, bring friends to help through the difficult stuff. Be prepared to ride well in deep sand and to ride in "Attack" mode. If you are super heavy, well at some point, you will pay for this. Keep pressures low for sand .... like 10 to 12 lbs. air back up for rocks. A little known fact is that Baja sand (like all sand) constantly changes. It's depth on tracks can be Hellish one week and two weeks (or less) later its rideable again. Why? Wind Mostly. Big Buggies or Trophy trucks too. The wind seems to blow desert sand INTO the tracks. The Trophy trucks roost it back out again:rofl::eek3: But sometimes I think the wind can shift direction and blow sand Out as well. Don't be put off Baja by any of this. There are plenty of beautiful dirt rides though Baja that are not so hellacious. I've done plenty on my Vstrom (three trips there) on my old KLR and recently on my DR650. I've also done it on my XR650L, XR400 and DRZ400E, all now sold. The more serious off road stuff was best on the DRZ and XR400. The XR400 and DRZ are the two prime rental bikes the Tour operators use. They also offer Honda CRF450X. But for me, getting on my buddies WR450F was a revelation! The perfect Baja bike, IMO, if not a bit slow on highway. But its pure performance, ease of use and reliability made me grin ear to ear. The thing is not upset by deep sand and seems to float over rocks. It has so much power you can simply loft the front end up a bit ..... and hold it there ....indefinitely until things smooth out. The balance on the bike is excellent, turns great with amazing stability everywhere. My little XR is a great bike in mild woods riding but with its soft stock suspension and my fat ass (200 lbs.) were just too much. Lack of torque from the 17 HP motor was the clincher. With the WR's and CRF's you cannot pack much onto the bikes. No sub frame. All our guys slung everything in a back pack and small tail and front packs. We hit Motels every night so we did not need a large wardrobe or much food. We did carry plenty of water, Two liters in Camel Backs and an extra gallon each. And this group really liked to DRINK! We always had at minimum a six pack of beer and a bottle of Tequila! I did drink the beer but no Ta-Kill-Ya for this old geezer. :stupid: I must admit I was pleasantly surprised how the beer helped this old Irishman out. Hey, it worked for Joey Dunlop didn't it?c? If you are riding a heavily loaded bike like a KLR, I would still ride the following places: Mike's Sky Ranch (near Valle de Trinidad) Puertocitos to Alfonsinas (dirt) to Coco's Corner to Bay of LA. (paved) The Missions, San Borje and another .... these are two makeable by dual sport. Near Loreto you can ride up to San Javier, then to the two Commundu towns (San Jose and San Miquel) and onto to La Purisma and out to San Juanico at Scorpion Bay. GS's have made all these routes and Vstroms too. A bit rough but no serious obstacles. To San Javier by Vstrom! !No problema! http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph..._Yh8Zd-M-1.jpg Nice camping near Mulege' http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...42_Pp6gk-M.jpg Even the big bikes can do plenty of exploring .... this on way to a Mission. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...68_zxWb4-M.jpg Lone Rider and others can add to this very short list. I don't know the south of Baja well at all. Going into the interior may require GPS. See The Lizard Ladies books. Or get way points from others. If one is merely transiting through Baja to the Ferry .... well, all I can say is enjoy it while you can. The peace and quiet is the highlight of Baja. The friendliness and mellowness of its people too. The mainland is a bit frenetic and stressful. BIG cities, LOTS of traffic, even smog. Baja is paradise by comparison. See it while you can ..... it's all in flux. Banditos? There have been a few robberies on the road from Tijuana to Ensenada. Most all tourists in Motor Homes. Do this section in day. Thanks to the USA, the border area is now essentially on alert and in some ways like a war zone. The Mexicans are reacting to the over-blown militarism of US policy via HomeLand security. A pathetic joke of course as this vicious policy mostly affects poor farm workers, women and children trying to get to the USA. These folks are not terrorists, yet they are treated as such. And the money the US is spending for this? Don't get me started. Baja and Mexico are no longer cheap ....except for those of you carrying UK Pounds or Euros.:thumbup1: Prices are up about 50% within the last three or four years. Still cheap relative to Europe of course. A bargain in fact. Feel free to post questions or answers or comments here about Baja or Mexico. Patrick:mchappy: |
Patrick,
Were any of you guys running steering dampners? If so, any comments? A friend of mine recently returned from an extensive 10 day Baja run that was 1800 miles of off roading. He'd built a new CRF450 (steel valves) and equipped it with a dampner, and said that it made life much, much easier in the deep stuff, especially when badly rutted because of following others. I want to try one someday. |
Damper's rocK!
No, no one in our group had a damper, but they should have!
Three years ago I rode a DRZ400E in Baja. It had the W.E.R. damper on it and MAN! what a difference! :thumbup1::clap: Most every Baja racer uses a damper. The Scott's is the most popular but the WER and others are ALL good too . Any advantage in the sand will make a big difference. A poor man's damper is to simply slightly tighten up the steering head bearings. Of course the bike won't turn worth poop on pavement but will work FAR better in sand. Even on our DR650, a damper will make a huge difference! Even a fork brace can help. But a true damper will help more in sand and ruts. The key to rut riding is to NOT look at the rut. Just keep the power on and ride through them, watching your line far ahead. Unless they are hard edged mud ruts (dry) then you will be OK. Hard ruts are another story and require a careful choice of lines, avoiding being "cross rutted" and a few other hazards. Sand ruts from riders ahead of you will cause the bike to wiggle but mostly if you don't look at them and stay on the power, you will just go through them. A Damper makes this a much calmer and low key event. Patrick:mchappy: |
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For those interested, I'll update my overlanding CRF450 thread soon because things are moving along... :scooter: Re: the damper. I absolutely agree they are worth the money if you're going to spend a lot of time riding in soft or rutted sand. I had a Scott damper on my XR400 and my CRF has a GPR. Stephan |
I think it is safe to say to ride with others as much as possible in Baja for safety sakes. Especially in the remote parts. It is awfully dry, and can get hot out there during the late spring and summer, into fall. Not a place to get stranded on your own.
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Good advice Simon. The buddy system is best. Even in a larger group. Pick a buddy. Stay together. A SAT phone is not a bad idea either. Believe or not its not that hard to get help in Baja. If you can get word to Ensenada they WILL send an Ambulance. Not expensive either. There are other methods for rescue as well.
Thankfully it was not hot on this ride. But in November it was 100F. I was alone on my over loaded DR650. But the Baja 1000 guys were pre-running, so I knew every five or ten minutes somebody would likely come by. Still, riding alone is not a great idea. Shit can and does happen. Best advice is to get a guide, a good one. Stephan, I'd love to see your CRF! Post some pics or start a thread somewhere. Where are you planning to go? I've heard a lot of good things about the GPR damper too. I'm looking for a used damper at the moment. Trying save a few bucks! Good luck with the CRF and keep us posted! Patrick |
Hey Patrick,
Great shots and glad to see you are rolling along still. I can't wait to get a new bike, stay well Josh |
Hey Josh,
Good to hear from you! Remember when you told us of the terrifying night with the Crank smugglers? In Baja we heard stories about kids jacked up on Crank doing petty crime. Turns out speed has now found its way into more than a few areas of Mexico. VERY BAD ju ju. On the photos, I should extend credit to my riding buddies who took quite a few of the pics shown here. So thanks to Bob, Roberto, Kai, Marty and Chas, thanks for the pics and the great riding. What are you up to Josh? Married and settled down yet? :rofl: Cheers, Patrick |
A few more Baja pics ......
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More, new pics on link above!
The AYU link above has been updated with some new pics and captions.
Any questions, comments welcome as always. Patrick:mchappy: http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...84_EgpYD-L.jpg Going over bars one too many times. It was even better a couple days before! :oops2: http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...01_jda2k-M.jpg Famous Coco's Corner. Coco now in recovery in Ensenada after his leg amputation. (Diabetes). So now Coco has NO legs:confused1::thumbdown: http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...86_TyFPa-L.jpg Turtle project in Bahia de Los Angeles. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...44_9wV8t-L.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...09_4AGiv-L.jpg Peace and quiet at Alphonsinas ....just south of Puertocitos. Hell of a road to get there. It is now worse than I've seen it in 20 years. Pavement is promised .... trust me ....this is NOT a good thing for riders and Baja. Can you Say Costa Del Sol? :thumbdown: But corruption are slowing down the process .... but its coming. GO NOW! http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...49_bXb92-L.jpg Amazing tide pooling in Baja. Pacific side is the best. |
Did you happen to take the back way out of Mike's? Me and a buddy did that on really loaded down KLR's in February and it was a lot tougher than we planned on.
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I assume you mean the back way out to the west? There are a couple routes
to the west, one is really tough, so I've heard. We took the route over to Valle de Trinidad, over to the east and the highway. No problem that way. From Valle de Trinidad we rode the dirt road over to Mex. 1 then out to the Beach to ride some dunes. Patrick:mchappy: |
Yes, the way to the west. We went to Mike's that way and it was pretty tough. We came close to turning around just before we crested a hill and saw the ranch.
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bump up
Just bumping this thread up so it comes up sooner in a search.
New info as to why I had so much trouble riding deep sand. BENT FORKS!!! Yes, its true. My little XR250 had bent forks and a bent steering stem. A friend suggested I check for his and sure enough, BENT! My XR250 is now sold! Happy to say I've just been down to Baja again in October with my DR650 and had NO problems in the sand .... in fact had a blast! http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...37_e7oTV-L.jpg |
Dangerous Baja
Patrick,
Thanks for the bump, I missed this the first time around. Great report and pics. Tom |
Few more randon pics from same trip
just a couple more pics from Baja last Spring. (5/08)
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...89_YTZpH-L.jpg Miles of and miles of sandy tracks. Got Knobbies? http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...31_t8BXU-L.jpg Patrick slogging along on the bent XR http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...61_c4nNZ-L.jpg Randy Bradesckui memorial |
Among other places, I try to get to Baja once or twice a year, and explore. There's more than enough there that I'll never tire of it. I do work hard to avoid pavement or wide graded roads (and people).
The north parts are definitely getting more and more paved, and much more expensive. http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/438526204_j2WAy-L.jpg http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/438446006_6NWi6-L.jpg This past December, the biggest thing I notices was no one was there. All the usual haunts for tourists were empty. I've never been to Alfonsina's in Gonzaga Bay on a Friday night where it wasn't fairly busy. I got there at 2130 on a Friday night, and had to wake the owner up to get a room and a few beers. Down near Vizcaino: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/271945616_QKiNX-L.jpg Out near Malarrimo: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/26...jvkmb-XL-1.jpg Bahia de Tortugas: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/269079812_RC4j6-L.jpg La Laguna - if you ever go near San Ignacio, take the run out here and see the whales! http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/269705674_WAaZE-L.jpg Traveling the Fangos south towards San Juanico: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/269866488_pnYjP-L.jpg One of the less improved roads near the Comondus: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/270665511_8wRDA-L.jpg In the middle of nowhere, just the way I like it. http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/270676724_BxPgn-L.jpg Mision San Javier: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/270682338_SJtZT-L.jpg The road south from San Javier to Constitucion: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/133775162_Nyddr-L.jpg The un-named trails near the failed Federal Water Projects close to San Luis Gonzaga: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/133777689_yGFSB-L.jpg The descent into San Evaristo: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/133788147_kcVgL-L.jpg Heading south to LaPaz: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/133789960_VfWQN-L.jpg http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/133790600_TWkr3-L.jpg Crossing from west to east across the peninsula about 40 miles north of Cabo: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/133793398_64KUq-L.jpg Sunrise at Los Barriles: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/13..._2e9tH-L-1.jpg Picking up the tires I shipped to myself in La Paz: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/133798808_rPxdp-L.jpg Camping on a deserted beach 50+ miles from anywhere.... http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/133801892_TPjY7-L.jpg It's nice to wake up, out in the open air, and see this in the morning: http://gaspipe.smugmug.com/photos/133805509_b3LQf-L.jpg I have lots more. The point is Baja can be ugly and unsafe in the border cities, just like anywhere else. get away from the big population centers, and it's a beautiful place full of friendly folks. |
Thanks for posting your great Baja pics! I recognize some of those tracks!
Here's a couple from another ride. Some of this will get paved in the next year or two, as I'm sure you know. http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...81_mcG5x-L.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...38_Tip6L-L.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...16_wNMSU-L.jpg http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...09_dyKh6-L.jpg |
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