Central American July/August 2010
 

Well, after planning and failing to even attempt a SE Asia --> Europe trip last year (due mostly to those visa-hoarding Iranians), I may finally be able to do some riding abroad... I'm looking at spending 3-4 weeks riding through Central America and looking for some input as to how much I can feasibly see in that time. So far my plans are very tentative and totally flexible. Basically I want to see some old colonial cities, find some lonely beaches, and maybe do some hiking in some national parks (so far I'm thinking celaque in Nicaragua and corvocado in costa rica), all while living as cheaply as possible. Im not too worried about comfort or eating well so Ill probably camp as much as I can and eat with the locals. I'll be starting from/returning to the northeastern US and that needs to be within my 3-4 weeks. Soooo.... how realistic is it?
Thanks!
:scooter:

We each have our own way of doing things and it all depends how much you want to see.

Right now I'm in the Panama highlands on the return part of my Victoria, BC to Yaviza, Panama and back home trip. I've been on the road for 45 days and it'll be another 45 until I arrive back home. I still feel that I don't have enough time.

If you're planning on seeing every Central American country I would say 3 to 4 weeks is not enough. The distance from north to south through Mexico alone is about 3000km's, plus the distance from your home to the Mexican border. You can take the Mexican toll roads and get through much, much faster but they're incredibly expensive. Google "traza tu ruta" for distances and costs.

The Central American countries are mostly quite small and some can be crossed in a day. But remember that there are lengthy border formalities with each one. Nicaragua to Costa Rica has been the absolute worst so far. Two hours in the sweltering heat with thieves watching you. I had my tank bag stolen during a short moment of inattention. Honduras takes about 1 1/2 hours and the other countries were a lot easier and took about 30 to 45 minutes each ...that's if you speak enough Spanish.

All the countries down here have been wonderful and full of great helpful people. It'll be tough to choose only one :-) Also, do check the climate for each country you plan to visit. Our summer is what they call invierno (winter). That means rainy season. Hiking could be a bit tricky with wet, muddy, slippery trails. It's not the same mud as back home ...much denser and more slippery.


blog: www.scrabblebiker.com

A month is enough time to get there (Costa Rica or Nicaragua) and back from the Northeast if you do nothing but ride ride ride all day, every day. Sound like fun? I didn't think so.

The best colonial cities, in my limited experience, are in Mexico anyway. Plenty of good coastline to be had as well. It'll still be a ridiculously rushed trip, but at least you'll have an outside chance to see some stuff and do some things, whatever these might be.

Hope that helps.

Mark

PS: oh, and about camping: be aware that camping in a lot of places can be dangerous. Keep quiet about your plans and stay well-hidden, as a start.

Thanks Scrabble for the border info. I'll be setting off around the 6th / May w/ a Canadian and a bloke from Australia. If you have any other info / advise you want to share, greatly appreciated! Start through Baja. Sounds like carrying your tank bag is best!

3 to 4 weeks from the pacific northwest to CA and return is pretty much impossibe unless you take all toll roads in Mexico which in my opinion is not much fun and very expensive. You talk about camping, I think it is not possible on the toll roads they are completly fenced in.
I left Calgary on Feb. 22 and am now in Mazatlan on my way home, I like scrabblebiker, went all the way to Yaviza Panama and I did not have any border problems. I always parked in front of a guard with a weapon and asked him to keep an eye on the bike and it seemed to work. I also used helpers to expedite the process when I could not find the copy shops and varios windows. I paid $2.00 each time and 1 time $5.00 because the aduana was on lunch and we had to go to the lunch counter to get the passport stamped.Also payed the agent $5.00 because he was on lunch. Many people do not want to pay helpers but if you are friendly with them and set the price up front they are very helpful. The $10.00 extra that I payed at the Honduarn El Salvador border saved me a couple of hours in line at 40 degrees C.and I do speak resonable sp

Well, I actuall was carrying my tank bag with me. It was stuffed into my helmet which I had put down beside me on the counter at Aduana while filling out forms. I had no room to lock it up in my cases.

I'd be more than happy to answer any questions if you have specific things you want to know about.

Suffice it to say, the countries are all great in their own way and the people I've met were nothing but helpful and hospitable. Even the chicken bus driver in Nicaragua who ran me off the road didn't mean it in a personal way :scared:

The best advice I can give is learn some Spanish, smile a lot, have LOTS of patience, leave your North American expectations at home and go with the flow, expect travel distances to take 1 1/2 times to twice as long as back home, border procedures always involve checking out of the country you're in (both immigration and customs) and then going through the next country's immigration and customs. Three countries require liability insurance, which is sold at the border ...Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. If you're coming back through a country again, ask to be allowed to hang on to your vehicle import permit, and in the case of Mexico your tourist visa. Be aware that just because something worked a certain way for me, or others, doesn't mean that it's going to work the same way for you. I get the impression that there is a lot of ignorance and lack of training at some of the borders and everyone seems to have had a different experience. I didn't use any helpers at all and did fine. Others have used them but do search the forums for some cautionary notes and horror stories with helpers. Anything more specific, contact me or ask in the forums.

Hi Clawedjird,
Sounds like fun!

I just got back from Panama. It was 9600 miles roundtrip from Arizona. That's a long freakin' way to ride. Let me tell you. But it was SO MUCH FUN!

I was only going to Guatemala to get my teeth fixed, but ended up going to Panama on a side trip. Realistically your plan is flawed. Which is why I like it so much. 20-30 days goes by quickly.

Instead of making grand plans that don't work out, why not just head south and have a hootin' good time until your time and money are half way gone and then head back north.

You might even make it to Guatemala and back. Maybe further. Who cares? The ride is the reason. And there's lots to see and do south of the border, no matter how far you get.

Coming from the northeast, you might want to consider heading through Texas to Nueve Laredo and down Monterrey way and winding around through the cool Colonial towns on your way south. July/August is cooler in the mountains. Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Aguas Calientes, are all nice. Or check out Copper Canyon.

And don't listen to the folks who will be trying to scare you off. Or pooh-poohing your plans. You'll have fun no matter what.

My advice is: Head south and have fun.

Best luck,
John Downs

Hard to tell who or what to listen to. Those who post "pooh poohing" sometimes know what they're talking about....although sometimes not. FWIW, down in the Copper Canyons will be even hotter than Baja (but that was a different poster).

Mark

Actually, I was not clear. I meant relatives and friends from home who spout stories of fear they read in the newspapers. Not people here who have given good advice.

And yes, Batopilas is hot in the summer, but Creel and Divisidero are cooler at 7000 feet, and the road south to Hidalgo de Parral is nice, often with dramatic afternoon thunderstorms during the rainy season in July and August.

Do it.
 

There is some very good and clear advice on this page.
We're just now finishing up about 3 1/2 months and are in Buenos Aires, having passed thru Central America a coupla months ago. I honestly wish we'd had 6 months available, and if we had, i'm sure i'd be wishing for 9. But whatever time you can squeeze, go for it. You won't regret it. If you can only get a coupla weeks, Mexico is a wonder, enormous, and filled with great places to see and people to meet. Or fly in to Costa Rica and rent a bike. or...there are probably at least a thousand ways to do this thing, most all good.
One thought to consider -- camping is certainly cheap, but small hotels are very reasonably priced. More importantly, we found that staying in SMALL hotels, hostels and posadas greatly increased our interaction with the local folks, which multiplies the fun of this kind of escapade. After all, getting to know the local people/culture is the biggest reason to do this kinda thing -- if it were just miles you wanted, there are plenty of those to be had in the US.

Ciao --
Haciendolo…

Thanks for all the responses! There's a lot of good advice here. I realize that my timeframe is a bit insufficient but its all I've got so I might as well try... I'd love to take a year or two off to do Central and South America but its not feasible right now. I'll be happy with wherever I get to go and whatever I get to see. I'll probably be following John Downs very specific advice: "Head south and have fun" lol. From PA (where I live) I'll be gunning it to the border and then just taking things as they come with a pretty general plan for where to go and what to see.

Does anyone have any experience selling a bike in Central America? If I were to ditch my bike and fly home, I'd have twice as much time to explore... If it's too much of a hassle though then it's probably not worth it...

Mike51- I hadn't considered that hostels and the like allowed for more interaction with the locals...that, along with the safety issue make it seem like a pretty good idea to purchase lodging at least some of the time. Thanks!

Thanks again for all the ideas! Lots of food for thought...

Clawedjird,
I`m in Mèrida, Mexico at the moment, and will be heading from Oaxaca to Guatemala round the middle of July. Other than a final destination of Argentina, I have no set plans or time limit. I`m on a 2008 DL650 Vstrom and speak moderate(ish) Spanish. If you reckon we`ll be going the same way at the same time and are up for some company, lemme know!
Tim

Hi there ;
I want to come to CA from Texas in mid July .. On a Harley Dyna will appreciate feedback on how will this bike work down there.
thanks
raul

Central America is varied enough that ANY bike will do. I don't know much about that bike but I have seen people on Harleys in certain parts of Central America. The main issue you'll face is the fact that this style of bike might limit you to the beaten path. The main roads in Central America vary from excellent to fair but all can be ridden on just about any bike. Construction zones tend to be a lot rougher than back home and you'll need to be more careful. The biggest challenge I can foresee is the topes (speed bumps) which were very obviously designed by a sadist with a twisted sense of humour.
:taz:

Be prepared to bottom out, especially in Mexico. Also be prepared for topes/tumulos not always being marked. My record is flying over one of them at 110km/h.
:w00t:

Also check out the Harley dealer network to see where you'll be able to get service or repairs if needed. It's not a Harley thing but the fact that "large" bikes (anything over 125cc) is quite rare down there. Even my 650 was considered "big".
:scooter:


Michelle
www.scrabblebiker.com