My opinion (as ill-informed as the next mans!) on your points is this, hope it helps a little:
1: Goretex is expensive and has a limited lifespan. Personally I have non-waterproof riding gear which I cover with cheap Hein Gericke PU-coated waterproofs. It keeps me impressively dry and will be cheap to replace.
2-7: Good ideas!
8: Removable armor is a good idea. Try to make it firmly positioned in the sleeve though as loose stuff can make a jacket a pain to put on and get comfy in. This is my only complaint about my Hein Gericke Tuareg Jacket.
9: Definately! Try to avoid velcro up here as it is uncomfy, stiff and sticks to helmet straps etc! Maybe microfleece.
10: Good!
11: Just make sure it doesn't bunch up behind your arse when you sit down. Remember many adv riders have a ortlieb bag or even a partner directly behind them!

I'd also say be careful not just to add every feature you can think of. Mountaineering companies are (at last!) just coming to realise that less is more and, for example, a couple of good big, well positioned pockets is much better than eight tiny, tight, badly positioned ones. Simplicity is good! (And cheap!) I reckon one of the reasons many riding jackets are so stiff and uncomfy is because they have too many 'features'.
Not convinced by the whole water bladder thing. You can buy them seperately as rucksacks and I've personally never felt the need for one.
Matt

Couple of things I think would work in a jacket:

Integral fleece that is zipped into place and can be unzipped if it gets too warm. I have a Schott jacket with this feature, the fleece unzips and can be worn as an item of clothing normally (can supply photos if needed).

Think about the whole area around the cuff/glove interface. This area has most of the movement when actually riding (twisting the throttle, wiping your visor, hand signals etc, etc). How often have you got all your gear on and spent time getting the sleeves and gloves set up 'just so' for it all to let water or cold air in within 20 miles?
I have an Enduro jacket from a French company, Shift, that has a thumb loop built into the sleeve, this keeps the sleeve inside your glove all the time. The design needs some adaptation so that the thumb loop is inside your glove but your outer sleeve is over your glove (hope this makes sense). Again I can supply photos.

The whole area around the neck needs a lot of thought, you need to be able to have it open in warm weather, closed close to the neck in colder weather and maybe unrolled right up under the chin in very cold or wet conditions.

Make all the zip pulls BIG and very strong, even the Aerostitch ones can be too small and fiddly in very cold weather with winter gloves etc, also put a secondary closure system (press stud or something ) at all points where a zip starts. Zips have a way of working loose if the start is under tension.

Maybe look at a pocket inside the back of the jacket that can allow you to fit a back protector in whilst still being able to use the protectors belt and braces.

Velcro tabs or some such on the front to hold comms cables and hydration pack lines to stop them flapping about at speed.

Innner pockets that allow the user the choice of using closed cell armour or not (elbows, shoulders etc)

Then you just need some matching pants!!!:biggrin:

The ideal jacket
 

Hi
I'm late coming to this topic but I'd like to contribute. I've often considered the ideal jacket. It should have...

1. A hood. Fold-away ideally but detachable will probably mean less bulk on the neck. It must be a generous size and with a wired peak like a "proper" walking jacket.
2. A zipped external back pocket at waist level. Like my Dainese jacket - not velcro sealed like my Yoko jacket
3. A generous (i.e. high), comfortable collar, tied through a loop\ring and secured with velcro. The loop\ring is essential for secure fastening.
4. Removeable armour. The Dainese armour is comfortable and sturdy and the zipped access holes double as ventilation
5. Loop to hang jacket
6. Adjustable straps on upper arm to stop flapping
7. Adjustable belt. Buckle at the side not the front
8 Full Length zip - opening from the bottom too.
9. Storm flap on main zip secured by press studs not velcro
10. Rubberised press studs
11. Machine washable

Nice to haves:
- Zip to attach trousers
- Loop to route water tube -

Good luck with the project

David

rukka
 

why not just copy Rukka gear, it's the best by far without question

Ditto that - Goretex should be removeable - goretex on a hot day is like a sweat suit .