R80GS: HPN rearbrake
 

Hi, have anyone experience with HPN`s floating brakecam on the R80GS?
To me the originale backbrake is just a bad jocke, so Im considering HPN`s...
for more info:
http://www.hpn.de/english/english.html

Hi Yngve!

It depends on why you think the rear-brake is a joke :-)
If you think it is a joke because it hits stones then HPN will help you, if you don't like it because the performance is bad then HPN will make it worse.

The performance on the standard brake is not the best but it should still be possible to lock the rear-wheel in 100 km/h + if it is serviced the right way.

I fitted the HPN brake cam to my bike and found it worked much better than the original. I removed it because the lever only works in the original down position. I prefer an "upside down" brake lever because I often ride off road and this gives more clearance. I would be interested to know how the original brake can be made more effective.
Meanwhile , my HPN brake cam ( with brake shoes ) is for sale .

From what i read on the HPN websight and this thread, you are all talking about two diferent things. The re-location kit moves the lever up, giving you clearence but keeps the same brake-cam, like the Touratech product. The floating brake-cam is an entirely new cam that somehow makes the abysmal rear-brake perform better.I have experience with neither, but would like to know if the HPN cam is actually that much better and worth the money also? And just to be sure, are we talking monolever or parelever? Is there a difference between the two cams?
Sorry Yngveer, didn't mean to highjack your thread http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif I'm also interested in the new cam for my paralever.

hi guys
Check out this link a small modifcation to the brake arm works wonders I have riden simons bike, well worth it.
Hey mr ron glad to see your still out and about hope to be in north van next febuary
take care
nobby
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43213

Hi Mr Ron,
Yes indeed , these are two different things . One is the excellent HPN cam and the other is the operating lever. The levers can either point at the ground or point at the sky , but there is no difference in the braking ability of the levers . You can swap these easily because the standard breake cam is symetrical. The HPN cam however is not symetrical , so will only work with the lever in the standard position .

IMHO you will loose performance if you have the lever pointing upwards, how much depends on the state of the cable.

[This message has been edited by AliBaba (edited 25 August 2005).]

For use on tar you have a problem with the rear drum brake, but on dirt I find it locks up very easely. I have recently fitted Michelin dessert tires on my HPN and found the most amazing diffrence in braking abillity. To fit the Desserts you have to ofset the rim to the left on the hub by 16mm.

Front & rear brakes are not state of the art, but it is possible to rivet softer brake pads than the standard beemer pads on the rear brake. The difference is surprising, allows to block the rear wheel even fully packed at any speed. Of course the softer pads wear quicker and as far as I know the HPN cam just makes sure the pads are pressed more symetrical against the brake drum.

Personally prefer "softer" brake characteristics for dirt roads.

Hans

Hi, thanks for the answers..
Just to make things clear.. what i have done to the backbrake is fitted touratechs brakearm.The one that point upwards.
What I want is better brakingperformance.
Every moving part moves easeliy, nothing is stuck. Today I fitted new brakeshoes, maybe this will help. Will see in a couple of days.
I couldent block my rearwhell on loose gravel in 20km/h. That is the bad jocke!
Thanks guys
By the way, Im on a tripp with some friends of me. Take a look at www.gravelseekers.com

I have never had a problem locking the rear wheel - sometimes to my chagrin http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/wink.gif - except when there was oil leaking into the rear drum. This happens easily (as the o'rings wear and fail). Are you sure you didn't have oil contamination?

Yngveer, its possible the steel lining of your drum is glazed, meaning it's over-heated creating a super-hard suface with a very low friction (it's too smooth, polished). You may want to ty removing it with a sand-paper used for metal, like aluminun-oxide. This may give your brakes a better "bite". Don't be afraid, the sctatches will be only 0.001" deep or so and will not hurt your brake-lining. This is a trick racers use before a race to improve braking power.Oil-contamination of the pads is also a definite posability. The oil burns and turns into carbon, which acts as a lubricant.

Hi again, I think that glaced drum is the problem. My new brakeshoes did not improved the braking. Will do some "bushrepairs" with sandpaper, and do it properly back home.
Put the wheel in the...what is it called.. "turningbench"??? and do a small cut in the drum
But I will still use the brake and pretend that it works.....
Thank you guys.