July 02, 2005 GMT
Northern Peru

Twintraveller in Northern Peru
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Deutsche Version........english version below

Liebe Freunde, mittlerweile sind wir ca 10 Tage in Peru und hier passiert so viel, wir haben uns entschlossen unseren Newsletter ein wenig oefter dafuer aber kuerzer zu schreiben, um euch auf dem Laufenden zu halten.

Erinnert ihr euch an den letzten Newsletter: In Vilcabamba zwangen uns zwei Schweizer zum wandern und dann ging es gemeinsam ueber eine alte kleine Dirtroad in Richtung Peruanische Grenze, auf einem teilweise sandigen und matschigen Weg, den man nur schwer als Strasse identifizieren konnte, mit einer Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit von 20 km/h ?

Es war unglaublich. Es kostete uns 3 Tage bis wir wieder eine einigermassen vernuenftige Strasse fanden. Auf dem Weg Richtung Chachapoyas in den Bergen Nordperus fing es an zu regnen. Hier legte sich Katja auf einer Sandstrecke nach 8 Stunden Fahrt das zweite mal hin. Wir entschlossen an einem Polizeiposten nach einer Uebernachtungsmoeglichkeit zu fragen. Ja, wir durften auf dem Fussballplatz neben der Polizeikaserne uebernachten und ja, der Polizist wuerde sich freuen uns morgen einige fast unentdeckte Inkastaetten zu zeigen. Wir glaubten unseren Augen nicht, als uns der Polizist an einen Ort brachte, wo unentdeckte Inkagraeber inclusive Skelette herumstanden und lagen. Es war unglaublich. Aber es sollte noch besser kommen. Nachdem wir einige Tage in den bekannten Ruinen von Kuelap gecampt hatten und die wunderschoene Landschaft genossen hatten, entschieden wir, nach dem Besuch des Museums von Leymebamba mit seinen 200 Mumien, an den Fundort der Mumien zu wandern. Diesmal waren nicht nur die Schweizer schuld. 3 Tage, 4 Pferde und 60 km spaeter hatten wir nicht nur die Laguna de los Condores gesehen und waren 10 Stunden pro Tag durch Regen gewandert, sondern hatten tatsaechlich noch 700 Jahre alte Mumien in den Bergen entdeckt, die von den Archaeologen aus Zeitmangel zurueckgelassen worden waren. Wir konnten es nicht fassen. Was wir hier gesehen haben, laesst Macchu Piccu wie einen Steinhaufen aussehen. Diese Gegend hier im Norden Perus ist Teil des Inkatrails, aber kaum ein Tourist kommt auf die Idee sich mind. 12 Stunden Schotterstrasse anzutun, um das hier zu sehen. Dabei entdecken die Archaeologen hier jede Woche neue Graeber mit gut erhaltenen Mumien und Skeletten. Jeder der in diese Gegend kommt sollte sich mit Leon oder Saul aus Leymebamba in Verbindung setzen. Fuer die Reisenden unter Euch: Saul arbeitet im Museum, sein Bruder Leon ist ein Super Guide und kennt die ganzen Orte die noch nicht fuer Touristen erschlossen sind, sowie die Archaeologen. Er ist ein genialer Guide.

Heute haben wir uns von unseren Schweizer Freunden trennen muessen, da wir aufgrund von Katjas Strassenreifen und der Witterungsbedingungen eine andere Route nehmen muessen. Wir haben in den letzten 10 Tagen keine 300 km auf schlechten Strassen zurueckgelegt und die Bikes laufen wie neu. Wir freuen uns auf einige km Teer, bevor uns die Berge Perus wieder in Empfang nehmen. Auf gehts an Meer und in die Cordillera Blanca nach Huaraz.

Schaut euch die neuen Bilder an. Sued Ecuador ist updated und Nordperu ist neu.

Gruesse
Martin und Katja


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english version...........


Dear friends,

In the meantime we are about 10 days in Peru and there are so many things happening here, that we decided to send our Newsletter more often but in shorter version to keep you up to date.

Do you remember the last Newsletter: In Vilcabamba our new swiss friends forced us to hike and later we decided to cross the border to Peru over a desolate old Dirtroad, which was a sandy, muddy trail which we found hard to identify as a road. Average speed 20 km/h

It was incredible. It took us 3 days until we reached an acceptable road again. On our way to Chachapoyas in the northperuvian mountains it started to rain. Here Katja dropped her bike the second time on a sandy road after 8 hours riding time. We decided to ask for a place to stay at a police station in the middle of nowhere. Yes, of course we can camp on the football field beside the barracks of the police guys and of course, the police officer would love to show us some hidden and forgotten Inka locations. We could not believe what we saw the next day when the officer showed us a place with undiscovered Inka graves including 700 year old Inka skeletons. It was unbelievable.

But it was getting better. After we spent several days camping at the famous ruins of Kuelap where we enjoyed the beautiful countryside, we decided, after we visited the Museum of Leymebamba with its 200 mummies, to hike to the habitat of the mummies. This time it wasn?t the swiss friends who had to force us, we were on fire. 3 days, 4 horses and 60 km later we have not only seen the Laguna de los Condores, hiked 10 hours per day through pouring rain, but also had seen 700 year old mummies being left behind by the Archaeologists. We could not believe it. What we have seen here makes Macchu Piccu to nothing else than a pile of stones. This area here in the northern mountains of Peru is part of the Inkatrail, but almost no tourist would ever think about taking a 12 hour dirt road to come here. Every week the Archaeologist discover new locations with mummies and skeletons. For the travellers behind us: Everybody who visits this area should contact Leon or Saul from Leymebamba. Saul works in the museum, his brother Leon is a great guide who knows all locations which are not listed for tourists yet as well as the archaeologists. He is a great guy.

Today we had to separate from our swiss friends, Katjas street tires and the worse road conditions after the rain forced us to turn around. We have spent 10 days and 300 km on bad dirt roads but still the bikes are like new. We are looking forward to riding some pavement before we hit dirt again in the Cordillera Blanca. Vamos a la playa and into the Cordillera Blanca to Huaraz.

Check out our latest pics. Southern Ecuador is updated, Northern Peru is new.

Greetings
Martin and Katja

Posted by Martin Wickert at July 02, 2005 05:38 PM GMT
 



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