12/30 6 a.m. - shaved, brushed teeth, tended my bike - 80 degrees. No sign of dysentery or stomach disorders. Yesterday, we saw many sections of the shoulder where people spread their grain to dry and tended with a hoe.
Many beautiful cottage-looking abodes with many flowers, but they consisted of boards and sticks with a tin roof. Today, Frank and I came in off the road with blackened faces. What a scary sight in the mirror! At the Honduran border 11:50 a.m., snapped a picture of Frank being besieged by boys again (they try to get you to hire them to assist in paperwork).
Street in Honduras
3:00 - finally left border. The treatment at the border is insulting, especially El Salvador to Honduras. The officials have all these arbitrary charges, and constantly ‘pulling rank.’ We met Jim Donaldson from N. Carolina - he was very frustrated and angry at everyone including his 2 riding buddies. ‘Now I know why they say when you do a trip like this, buddies don’t speak to one another for a year or more’. Jim drove a R1000, bent his wheel on chuck holes, and was admiring our KLR’s; said next time he’s going to get a KLR.
12/31 Beautiful ride from hotel to border - really feeling great, no prostate problem, no sinus infection, sleeping well, getting along with Frank, sort of. Frank knows everything about these KLR’s - taking good care of us. We saw kids at the roadside holding up dead lizards for sale. Took picture of a bonita 10 year old girl -’ Lini ‘- selling apples, then of Frank refreshing @ roadside, then a village fruit market. First 30 miles of the road into Nicaragua was the worst I’ve seen since we left. Met 3 the guys from N. Carolina again (w/Jim D) not getting along, separating. We left at 8:10 am.
We really made headway today, but I am exhausted. 3 hours to get out of Honduras and into Nicaragua, We drove across and checked out, and into Costa Rica. Arrived about 9:30 p.m., washed clothes and listened to the fireworks and loud bands ‘playing’ in the New Year. I hurt my mouth on the 25th (side swipe), and it hasn’t gotten better ... gotten a lot worse. Doctoring it, hope I can get it taken care of so I can enjoy eating and other things. Really miss Kath. Talked to her briefly tonight, maybe try to call again tomorrow.
1/1/02 - Leon, Costa Rica A shoeshine waif approached me to solicit me. I said ‘no comprende’; ‘Boleo sus zapatuz’, he repeated himself, but a little slower. I said ‘no comprende’, he moved round in front of me, pointed to his eyes with 2 fingers, as if to say, ‘now pay attention’ and said ‘Senor, (I was sitting in a chair), he repeated the syllables very slowly; ‘bo-lay-o sus za-pot-os’. I burst out laughing, he smiled for a moment, but then shrugged his shoulders helplessly, and walked away, but not without giving me a parting shot of disgust over his shoulder.
We stopped in San Jose and did a successful update at the Internet Café, but leaving there was now my latest worst ride ever. It started bad because I went on reserve a mile out of town - then it started raining on the mountain, and the worst part, a thick fog... driving in low gear and picking our way was nerve-wracking, took about 2 hours of this when we came upon a quaint hotel, thank God! We were told gasalina is 70 K, about 40 miles, Oh Boy! We got really cold at the hotel, no heat, just thick blankets, To park our motos, there was an elevated carport with the owner’s car parked at the entrance with 3’ wide opening to get by without hitting a steel rail, it was raining, very precarious. After we negotiated this, the owner pulled his car in behind us so we couldn’t leave without paying.
Next a.m., we drove about 10 miles, my clutch broke, 5 seconds later, ran out of gas. Frank emptied contents of his gasoline cooker in my tank, replaced the clutch cable, and we were going again in 15 minutes. We went about 15 miles to the top of a mountain, ran out of gas again, I coasted over 7 miles down the mountain and rolled right into a Texaco station - WOW! Frank and I agree this a.m. ride was the most beautiful (100 mi to Panama); arrived here at 2:10 p.m. On the shoulder, saw an iguana entwined with a snake, neither of them moving.
1/3/02 It was markedly different conditions entering Costa Rica and more so Panama.
Roads were marked, there were ‘curve’ signs, very few pedestrians. Saw some Hwy State Patrol vehicles. Even saw a pickup pulling a ski boat. We saw skinny- tired road bikes instead of the scruffy mountain bikes. We stayed at a wonderful hotel last night (Galleria, in David, I think). The ride into Panama City was glorious, wide wonderfully marked roads, sparse traffic, we found a spectacular roadside lunch place. Took some pictures - waitress ‘Moctie’. As we entered Panama City, it down poured, complicating our effort to find our way to the Aero Puerto. We got soaked, but it was a warm rain. First place we tried said it will be $473 for both bikes, but not leave til Thursday, a week.
Second place, boss not here, back at 8:00 (it’s now 4:50). They have flights every day but tomorrow is booked. We will wait right here for boss & maybe dry out.
It’s 4:05 a.m. on January 5th. I’m wide-awake and I feel rested. We’re in one of those sex by the hour motels; very nice, just one bed. I found Frank down in the garage sleeping on his mattress, very thoughtful of him. We are 200 mi. SW of Bogotá. Our tires are still holding up - wow. Took a great picture of Frank going toward a mountain in the middle of the road (it seemed). Really miss my Kath... about 6 thousand miles to go, can only do 200 or 300 a day. I think Frank & I both are weaker than when we started (road weary).
Mr. Romero did show up at the cargo company (Girog) and finalized our bike shipment - $250 cash each; we now are broke. We’ll have to find an ATM. Hotel took VISA, $142,000 pesos = $71 U.S. Our taxi driver (Ernesto) is most anxious to help us. He came to our hotel 45 minutes early to pick us up to take us to our bikes. Couple hours of paperwork, on the road at noon, traffic was unbelievable. We went around an ‘open’ manhole in the street. What a trip stopper that could have been! We saw a total of 3 open manholes. Traffic was bumper to bumper for about 60 miles. We passed 100’s of vehicles on the right and left to make progress, & so as not to have to sit in the 104-degree temp. We stopped at a pig roast on the highway, was scrumptious. My knee is finally better this a.m. - still a little feverish, but better. Think we have about 350 miles to Ecuador, won’t make that today. So many of these roadside restaurants have no menus, just their meal of the day.
It was beautiful, when we finally got out of Bogotá, lush green mountains and valleys, great roads, well marked, nice shoulder for passing when jammed up. We see great numbers of ‘girls’ on bikes & motorcycles now - didn’t see that in Central America. Traveling is much better now. Don’t care much for Central America.
1/7/02 To get back on the Pan American, we had to cross over a mountain. What a chore, 80 miles of rock, blocked roads, shear drop offs, harrowing trip...rarely out of 1st & 2nd gear - stunningly beautiful though. We are only about 50 miles from Ecuador, seems like we are doing pretty well. Staying at Hotel Impero de Los Incas, still in Colombia.
Truck driver stopped to offer us a "gaseous cola" (coke)
Colombia is my favorite country, Pasto is my favorite city, enchanting, ...how beautiful. We stopped to have café con leche and sweet cake (not very sweet), 70 miles from Ecuador border (on top of a mountain overlooking Pasto). Saw a guy yesterday (a painter), on a moto with his paint buckets and 8-foot ladder. When we traveled on that terrible rock road, we encountered kids with a rope across the road to stop us for pesos, but more threatening was a roadblock with a big bamboo log across. Frank talked with the leader a moment and they opened a little for him to pass, but stopped me and demanded pesos. I glared at him and gunned my MC thru the opening.
Frank in the distance...Columbian backroads
Then, almost as maddening, we met 25 or 30 groups of kids with water barrels ready to douse us as we passed pails of water & garden hoses. It was chilly riding in these mountains, and that made it miserable. Some kids had white and other colored powder to throw on us. It was a most uncomfortable experience. Sometimes we would pass under an over-hanging cliff and get doused from above. Turns out, we learned later, that we happened to passing through on the last day of a religious holiday, and we were the recipients of their baptismal.
Had to get used to going down 2-lane highways with oncoming traffic and commonly, someone pulls into your lane to pass...you just move over.
Saw a sedan pulled over on hwy, hazard lights blinking, 6 men standing taking a leak. Don’t remember seeing any of that in America.
Really slept well last night, think it must have rained several inches.
Next a.m., couldn’t help but feel like celebrities. People were all over our bikes, and us, taking pictures of each child on the seat (with sunglasses). It is noon and we are at the Ecuadorian border; Frank went inside to do his thing! He was out in a few minutes.
Now to Ecuador... arrived 12:00 noon, out to lunch till 2:00 p.m. This typical arrogant asshole is like we experienced in Central America. He comes to see our bikes (to inspect). We try to show him the serial # that he asked for; he will not be shown anything. He stops to talk with a young girl, laughs, visits, while we wait. After several minutes, he ok’s the document without looking at our bikes further. During our wait for him, I ventured uptown, Frank stayed with the bikes, and was taken with the kids (teenagers), on lunch break, walking arm in arm everywhere. I brought back a large container of fresh blackberries for us, ...50 cents. They were so scrumptious!
Experiencing the euphoria
Today, we climbed to the top of the mountain and floated among the clouds, hwy good (sparse traffic) & we glided, floated, drifted...surreal. And then we descended; the curves got tighter but concentric, loved the sound of my KLR purring, coasting, and carving the mountain. It was a dreamy 265 miles.
1/8/02 Stayed in Quito last night, nice hotel - cost $11 for the use of the phones. Talked to my Kath, she was wonderful. Today was hectic and great. Started out with my rear tire going flat 1 mile from the hotel. Fixed it, we thought, went flat again, drove slowly about a mile or so, found a tire shop, lost about 3 ½ hours, but the experience was good. Enjoyed Louis (Lou ees). After leaving Quito, we climbed to the top of the world, it seemed.
We drove in and out of the clouds, it was cold, wet, and the scenery was astonishingly beautiful. Saw pastures that were almost vertical, people tending their animals everywhere. Saw one lady with 3 sheep on a tether with a baby on her back. Saw men plowing with oxen.
Flashback: My windshield broke off about 3rd day, and my MC cover disappeared 2nd night on the road. We are staying tonight at a Hosterie in Biblica near Cuenca on Pan Am #35.
1/9/02 7:05 a.m. Frank still sleeping. All of our hotels have been clean, cheap (with 2 or 3 exceptions) & friendly. People seem to be in awe of us - wish I could read their minds or visit with them. Our days are long now, dark after 7.
Riding through the clouds in the Andes
Today, we climbed to the top of the mountain and floated among the clouds, hwy good (sparse traffic) & we glided, floated, drifted...surreal. And then we descended; the curves got tighter but concentric, loved the sound of my KLR purring, coasting, and carving the mountain. It was a dreamy 265 miles. Now we are entering Peru @ 6:00 p.m. Kathy would love riding in Colombia and Ecuador, especially today’s ride. The policia and military have been polite & gracious to us.
We are in Sullana (soo-yana), the pace here is dizzying - with the hundreds of 3 wheel motos w/multi colored canvas tops (taxis) running around (constant beeping, whistles & honking). As we left Sullana, we entered a desert w/terrific winds from the side. It blew my great gauntlet gloves out of the canvas wrap that was bungeed down with my grapple. I hate losing them; don’t know if I can find others in Lima. The wind was dangerous to ride in, especially when passing trucks... and the sand was blinding at times. We are staying in a hostel near the ocean, 1st time I’ve had my own room ($5 a night). It’s miles from nowhere, so no supper, TV, or conversation. Wouldn’t like much of this, but sure gives me time to think. This darn knee, it’s been 11 days since the accident, and it’s still hurting as much as the 1st day. It gets feverish and swollen, keeps me awake. Guess I’ll take the rest of my Cipro. Found my 3rd camera today and took some ‘moving’ pictures of Frank in a sandstorm south of Sullana.
1/11 Had breakfast at seaside, saw many fish being caught plus couple of manta rays, an octopus, and larger fish. I have mixed emotion with such a beautiful road along the sea, and the great dangerous wind and blowing sand.
Saw a new huge John Deere tractor in the middle of the desert, appeared to be abandoned ... then further on saw an old man miles from nowhere pushing a primitive wheelbarrow (wooden wheel). What in the world could he be doing out here?
Entering Chimbotte, 2 policia motioned us over, said our paperwork was improper and that we were speeding. One of them went to his radio and said something (I think he was faking). He pulled out a ticket book and pointed to ‘infracion’. Frank exploded, said, ‘We weren’t speeding - take us to jail’. Both officers now sitting in their vehicle said, ‘We want money’. Frank said ‘Mordita?’ (Bribe). ‘No, take us to jail’. Both men looked startled and both started saying ‘Freen’ and extended their hands. Frank said ‘Amigo?’ They said ‘Si’.
One said, ‘We want gaseous cola’ and smiled - Frank said ‘No - you give us money for a gaseous cola’. They said ‘no - Freen’. ‘OK’ ‘Can we go?’ ‘Si’. ‘OK - bye’.
On the road today, we came upon a huge sand dune across the hwy... a bulldozer was removing it but only had one lane open, we could scoot through before the rest of the cars and buses. I think the people here are glad Pepsi and Coca Cola came here ... their bill-boarding makes good huts and lean-tos, we see them everywhere.
Frank is uncanny the way he senses which way to go in these towns, when all I can see is obscure alleyways. He really startles me when he yells at guards or policia, when they are inspecting our papers and raising preguntas, (questions). ‘Give me back my papers so I can go’.
Every time he has done that, it has worked. They treat him like he’s having a bad day, and just get out of his way. They motion with their arm usually, and say, ‘Go’.
Pan American Hwy north of Lima along the Pacific coast in the Atacama Desert
While passing through a small village in Peru, we turned onto a street, thinking it was the way out of town. Some of these are marked obscurely, or not marked at all, so you often have to guess. As we progressed, the foot and animal traffic was getting heavier. It got to a point where people trying to squeeze by were nudging us constantly.
After several minutes of this in 100 degree heat, we finally were approaching an intersection where there had been a trench dug across the street, about 4 feet deep and 2 feet wide, not real conducive for motos, especially with the mound of dirt that was created along side of this trench. We were stopped. We noticed just a few feet to our right, was a place where it appeared a vehicle or something had crossed and had caved in the side of the trench and filled it partially; it was only about 8 or 10 inches deep. Frank tried it first, down into the trench, and then a sharp upgrade to the top of a huge mound and then down; …it was like riding a bucking bronco. It made me nervous to have to do that, but it was exhilarating to have done it. Wow!
Tonight we are in a small town just north of Lima; cute and clean hotel for 30 sols each (about $8.00). Interestingly, Frank w/his larger front sprocket has been getting better gas mileage than me, but the last couple of days in this wind, I’ve been leaning forward to cut down wind resistance and doing better than Frank’s, slightly. Yesterday, we got 65 mpg, but today only 45 mpg. I feel so lucky to be able to do ...
A truck approached us. The driver jumped out and we quickly up-righted the bike and got it over to the side, so the truck could squeeze by. Frank sat down in the rain and said ‘Dale, move your bike over a little so the truck can get by’. I really didn’t have any room to move, so thought I would take it off the kickstand and just lean it a little to the right to give a couple more inches. As my foot touched the edge, it gave away. I was tumbling and sliding with my bike down the mountain...
Frank & Peruvian kids .... mucho mutual admiration
1/14 leaving Lima, Peru We headed out on what we thought would be a continuing great paved highway. About 50 or 60 miles out, it went away - we struggled all day on this awful rock road @ 10 & 15 mph, and really beating up our MC’s. Towards eve, it started raining - things were miserable. We plodded even slower through the mountains and through a couple of villages, but no hotel. No choice but to go on into the night.
Traffic was sparse with glaring lights. I had been leading; we stopped a moment in the rain and said ‘Things could be worse’. Frank took the lead and said, ‘Let’s be safe, and not have you falling again’. Two or three minutes later, I could hardly make out what I was seeing. Frank’s bike was down on the road, his headlight facing left into the side of the mountain. I pulled up beside Frank’s bike and parked on the right side of the one-lane road. I tried to talk to Frank, no response. He was laying in water & mud (it was pitch black). He started moaning. I kept saying, ‘Frank, are you okay?’ No answer; he got to his feet, but couldn’t stand, kept staggering sideways. ‘Frank, are you hurt or just dazed?’ He finally said (about 4 or 5 minutes by now), ‘I’m just dazed, I think’.
A truck approached us. The driver jumped out and we quickly up-righted the bike and got it over to the side, so the truck could squeeze by. Frank sat down in the rain and said ‘Dale, move your bike over a little so the truck can get by’. I really didn’t have any room to move, so thought I would take it off the kickstand and just lean it a little to the right to give a couple more inches. As my foot touched the edge, it gave away. I was tumbling and sliding with my bike down the mountain. My bike and I stopped suddenly against a thorn bush. I was dazed now... couldn’t see anything at first, but soon saw that my bike and I had a potential greater fall if I wasn’t careful. I couldn’t stand up, too steep and slippery; I didn’t want to hang onto my bike, for fear it & I would go into the abyss.
Frank was now yelling frantically for me. I said, ‘I’m okay’.
He said, ‘Where’s your bike?’ I said, ‘It’s right here with me, but I can’t move’.
(I had fallen about 30 feet).
Frank said, ‘What are we going to do?’ ‘I don’t know’.
‘I think I broke my collarbone and I can’t help’, he said, ‘The trucker went to get help’.
I said, ‘Frank, it will take a winch to get us out.’ As I was waiting, I tried to calm myself, but I kept panicking at seeing the occasional vehicle far below me with its sweeping headlight beams, as it would maneuver up the mountain on those hairpin one-lane roads. When a beam would sweep under me, I could see plainly how vulnerable I was as I perched there. It was a vertical drop.
Don’t know how long I waited. Frank said later it was about two hours...my legs and arms kept cramping, as I was trying to stay on the mountain, holding onto a pencil-thin sprout of some kind. Finally, I heard voices, and then a rope. I tied it to my handlebars and I could then relax a little, I now had something to hold on to. But, even then, I slipped and grabbed for my bike to catch myself, and panicked when I couldn’t instantly grab something. I clawed for my back wheel spokes and connected.
The people up there tugged to no avail. After a while, another rope came and I tied it to my handlebars also. No movement. Then another - I tied it to my front forks. A Peruvian villager came rappelling towards me, talking to me madly (no comprende). The ropes couldn’t budge it. So, while hanging on to the ropes, we started unloading the baggage from the bike and tying each to a 4th rope (this was maddening in the rain and mud). I soon realized I couldn’t see very well because my glasses were muddy. Now, with the bike unloaded, it started moving. I was no help; as a matter of fact, I kept grabbing the bike to keep from going down. The great many villagers up there somewhere were chanting a rhythm of tug & rest, and the bike started moving inches at a time (WOW). I couldn’t help; I gave up, had to rest. A new rope came down for me. I wrapped it around my right hand several times and said ‘ok’. Out I came, but it was still scary, walking up the mountain horizontally, all my weight back and relying on someone wonderful up there to pull me to safety.
When I reached topside, Frank said ‘Dale, I’m so glad you’re okay’, ‘They need your help now to get the bike up.’ The masses of helpers were straining to pull the bike up the last bit, but the front wheel was caught on the edge of the road. So I kneeled down and strained to lift it up over, ...just an inch, the bike popped up over the edge. It took all my strength and air; I was passing out. My God, I thought, I’m falling back in! At that moment, a pair of vice-grip hands grabbed me so hard from behind that it pinched. When I turned to see who this he-man was, I was looking into the eyes of a very old woman. Next, I was back against the bank, safe, wet, gasping, and people giving me agua (water). We now had a traffic jam on the mountain. Frank said, ‘Dale, get your packs back on your bike and see if we can get of the road and let these wonderful people go home.
First, I tried to start my KLR, and my God, it started. I took my slippery, sloppy bags & stuff and tried to bungee them on the bike - somehow, I did it. Frank said, ‘My bike won’t start now because I’ve been using the headlight for the rescue and the battery is dead’.
After 20 or so minutes, Frank got his bike jumped & started and with a broken collarbone, he unbelievably drove up the mountain again.
When we arrived at Chincheros, (took about a half hour), Frank didn’t want to go to the hospital, but to a hotel and clean up and rest, we’d see about a hospital manana. We got our bikes secured and the hotel owners, Felix and Rosa, showed us to a primitive room. It had 2 beds and was dry.
Felix brought us some black coffee and the ambulance guy came and looked Frank over. Frank could rest for the night and go to the hospital tomorrow.
Frank took 1000 cc’s of ibuprophen and bedded himself painfully.
After a while, laying in bed, thinking about this unbelievable night, Frank said, ‘Dale, I’m glad they had a room with 2 beds in it. I don’t think I want to be alone tonight’. This was in the village of Chincheros, Peru.
On this road to Cusco, we encountered many obstacles that were put there by the strikers; we could get through though, because they weren’t being manned. Also had to cross many shallow streams, deepest about 12’, and it rained on us. Also encountered 100’s of cattle and sheep on the road We hit pavement and went 4 more hours to Cusco (8:00 p.m.,..very long day).
Just showered at our "swank" (NOT!) hotel in Chincheros
1/14 - We’ve been in Chincheros 2 days now, not much to do. It’s been raining for some time now, kind of cold in my walking shorts. I left Frank at desayuno, (breakfast), writing in his ledger. He thinks we can leave tomorrow for Cusco, I doubt it. X-ray showed a fracture of the collarbone, but no separation...swelled up though. Spent the day yesterday washing clothes (and Frank’s) and trying to clean & put my bike back together, pretty beat up. It started heating badly when we arrived here after our mishap, but after cleaning mud out of the radiator, appears to be okay now.
It’s quite beautiful here, but wish we could go - I’m anxious to be home and see my Kath.
There are 2 crazy parrots here that scoot around sideways, bickering and screeching constantly; pretty comical. Rosa says they are sisters, Lolita and lumas. We’ve been eating all our meals at this one family’s place, Letoya (Mom), Herlinda (college student), Emerson, Leyla, & Eli.
They are warm, engaging, and wonderful. Though I’m ready to leave here, I dread the 120 miles of the same rock & rutted mountain road till we hit asphalt. Was hoping to talk with my Kath today, but probably tomorrow if we can make it to Cusco. They did have a phone here in Chincheros, but it was programmed only for about 20 cities in the US, and Omaha wasn’t one of them.
1/15 - Wednesday Can’t leave today, as planned. Seems there’s a sort of ‘political strike’, and villagers are blocking the roadways to all traffic for this day (damn!)
1/16 Yesterday, the sun shone on the mountain across the way and rained on us all day. Today, the obverse, so far (9:30 a.m.) Just got back from visiting Latoya’s family casa. She is so proud of their orchard, mostly hard peaches (but good), on a grassy bank. When they knock down the fruit with a stick, it drops and rolls and they laugh and chase. Example of a meal cost: Desayuno (breakfast), plate of rice, covered with large scrambled eggs (huevos), rolls & butter and 2 cups of café con leche (latte) cost 8 sols for Frank & I together, about $2.50 U.S. This is Wednesday and we’ve nothing to do but wait till the 24-hour strike is ‘total’ (finished)...8 a.m. tomorrow. Frank can lift his right arm up a little today. I gave him my Tylenol PM capsules last night and he slept a lot, he says. We eat every meal with our Peruvian family and try to converse mucho.
I’m really missing Kath, want her here, she’s a part of me, and I love her.
The world has come to a standstill for Frank and me. All shops are closed, and roads...we were invited to eat with another family in the ‘centro’ (knowing we couldn’t buy anything), we declined, saying we were dining with Latoya & family. They were inquisitive and doubtful, saying she was closed w/penalty for doing business. We told them we were ‘amigos’. (So they dropped it). It’s 2:30 p.m. and time is dragging, can’t think of anything else to clean. Been sleeping at least 12 hours a day. Frank sleeps more, and he needs it. He just went to unlock the garage to get his MC manual to have something to read.
I find myself thinking of Kathy constantly...I see me seeing her and kissing her.
Almost everyday, I witness some bizarre scene that I say I’m going to record, most of the time, I forget. I recall in a busy city in Nicaragua, there was a man on a moto hauling a full size box spring on back... one carrying an 8 foot ladder & buckets, one family with papa, mama, and teenager on the back holding a 5 gallon bucket in each hand. Frank saw the same and said mama was holding a baby.
In Lima, on a 4-lane fast moving street at rush hour, we were in the right hand lane, suddenly the traffic slowed to 2 mi per hour. The traffic whizzed by on our left. It took several minutes for each vehicle to bail out of the lane...and when the last one made it, we saw the hold up was a man pushing a wooden cart down the middle of the lane, not even our MC’s could pass. I beeped him to let us by, but he ignored us, we just had to wait to get around him.
In Chincheros, where we were kind of marooned, I noticed early on our first morning an incessant honking of one of those squeeze ball bicycle horns. I figured it was a kid trying to annoy people or entertain himself. But everyday, at different times, it would start up again. Then I saw the culprit...about a 10-year-old girl walking along honking. Frank found out later that she was notifying the community that the fresh bread was done at the bakery. I thought for sure that the townspeople were being tolerant of a deranged little girl.
1/19 - Cusco We left Chincheros 7:00 a.m., climbed from 8600 feet to above tree line, 11,000 plus. We rode 120 miles of rock and dirt, hard to appreciate the wonderful scenery. Had to watch intensely where your tires were rolling.
At 9:00, Frank’s front tire went flat. It was quite a challenge to repair with Frank’s bad shoulder.
Frank, with bandaged shoulder, fixing a flat!
On this road to Cusco, we encountered many obstacles that were put there by the strikers; we could get through though, because they weren’t being manned. Also had to cross many shallow streams, deepest about 12’, and it rained on us. Also encountered 100’s of cattle and sheep on the road We hit pavement and went 4 more hours to Cusco (8:00 p.m.,..very long day).
The city was spectacular, loved the lights and the feel. Police pulled us over right away, we played dumb for the infraction (wrong turn, I think), and he got frustrated and waved us on. Found a nice hotel right away (dark though). Went to Machu Picchu @ 6:30 a.m. on Friday (exhausting train ride) and back in Cusco at 8 p.m.
1/20 - Sunday Had pretty primitive quarters last night in Pamato. Yesterday a.m. leaving Cusco, I said, ‘Frank, we’ve driven over 7,000 miles’ and tried to give him a high five, but with his bad shoulder, had to settle for a low five.
When we left Cusco, we went south & up to about 7 or 8,000 feet for 300 miles on a high plains plateau road... 42 to 60 degrees. We got pelted with sleet, and later drove thru some shallow wet snow. Saw thousands of adobe and straw homes, saw a big white rock (about 12’) in the middle of the lane where it had been dragged under a vehicle for 150 yards before dislodging...left a white chalk mark... must have created quite a scare. But the stone was left there, of course, ...for someone else to hit, ...and drag.
Frank & I were in a quandary; we came to the end of the road (pavement) and suspected the rock road that continued went into Bolivia (illegally). We had to do that or go north.
We did the rock road... for about 9 miles and changed our minds...came back and went the long way around. Lots of (100’s) llamas & alpacas, they tend to get in the road and are erratic when we get close. Frank passed up eating at a ‘Subway’ in Cusco - WOW!
Saw thousands of 1-room dwellings today constructed of basket weave panels. When we dropped down off the high plateau, we experienced massive sand piles thousands of feet tall, (they were majestic), lots of wind again, but appears we may finally be out of the rain.
Dale in Northern Chile by the "Hand in the Desert"
We stopped at the giant hand in the desert, a huge concrete hand, raising straight up about 200 yards off the road. We were taking some pictures and eating a donut, when Frank said, "Well, here comes one of our compadres...on a KLR." It was Mariola Cichon. She was heading for Ushuaia also, then up through Brazil, Uruguay, then over to New Zealand, India, and maybe Africa...
1/20/02 Officially - we’ve been 1 calendar month on the road - 10 countries achieved, 2 to go. We are in Arica, Chile, and it is wonderful weather...shorts and short sleeves. Got up @ 6:00 a.m. and the streets were being swept by hand everywhere, never saw a cleaner town.
Frank and I really enjoyed the ‘walking’ streets (no motor traffic), outdoor vending everywhere, some of the café’s tables and chairs extended into the street, nice feeling,...very modern with Internet cafés in abundance...we got our clothes washed...feels great!
Met Stephen and Victor on bicycles, stopped to talk a little. Stephen was from Mexico, near Puebla, and Victor was from Germany. They had left Ushuaia over 2 months ago. We gave them big fresh plums that they devoured.
Bicyclists headed north towards Prudhoe Bay
As we entered another province of Chile, we were stopped and the 4 plums we had left were to be confiscated, or we could consume them...we consumed them. It’s the first time I can ever remember being forced to eat lunch. Frank said, as we were leaving ‘I wonder if they will want to know where we defecate so they can check for contamination We went about 200 miles out of Arica to the coastal city of Iquique;...beautiful, was like Highway 1 on the California coast. Stopped at a seaside restaurant, had wonderful pascada and café con leche.
About 20 miles south of the city we kept entering what the signs said were ‘Zona de Neblina’ (fog). Traveling on this road was dreamy...massive sand piles, thousands of feet tall.
I’m dreaming about Kath giving me a haircut (with electric shaver) and I’m putting my arms around her. I’m dreaming of having breakfast on our deck, ..it’s summertime. Hmmmm.
I think back about the ‘sideswipe’ incident. And then I start to think about perching on that cliff that rainy dark night...how terrified I was getting, observing the car headlights far below me. The beams would sweep across below me, as vehicles wound along the mountain road below me (gives me the heebie jeebies again!).
Lots of tent campers along the seashore, most of them bunched up...would be groups of 6 or up to 20 tents huddling together...for security, I suppose.
We stopped at the giant hand in the desert, a huge concrete hand, raising straight up about 200 yards off the road. We were taking some pictures and eating a donut, when Frank said, ‘Well, here comes one of our compadres...on a KLR.’ It was Mariola Cichon. She was heading for Ushuaia also, then up through Brazil, Uruguay, then over to New Zealand, India, and maybe Africa.
With Mariola, we traveled about 350 miles today, the last 72k was rock and dirt...rough.
Frank Tabor & Mariola Cichon
Mariola took us to a resort beach area, Pan El Azucar (sugar loaf)...this was gorgeous. We had pascada, rice, salada (tomatoes and onions), and latte.
1/23/02 It’s getting light...about 3:45 Omaha time. Good sleeping...by the sea, with the waves gently hitting the beach. There are 3 of us in separate tents. We’re supposed to have breakfast with Mariola, but I doubt that will happen, because I don’t think the restaurant will be open.
Frank and I are ready to hit the road. My knee kept me awake for a while last night...I’m disappointed that it’s hurting still; it’s been a month and it’s swollen and feverish. I bought some more ‘Cipro’ in Arica, in case the swelling started moving down my leg again. I think we’re about 500 miles north of Santiago. Well, the restaurant was open, great daysayuno.
Note from Mariola:
“It is amazing how we, members of one big family, find each other in the strangest circumstances. I had a great time with you and Frank. Thanks for sharing stories and your time with me. I hope your journey will take you to many wonderful places, without any unpleasant surprises. Wish you the best of luck...and hope to see you on the road!’ Mariola Cichon www.rideoftheheart.com email@example.com”
Saw my first condor yesterday...he was soaring toward me and when he turned away from me, I saw his distinctive head...those expansive wings...magnifico!
About 12 or 15 miles N or La Sarena, yesterday, we were inland just a little, but riding a few thousand feet up, and ‘my gosh’ off to our right, on a mountain range between us and the sea...there were white, heavy-looking clouds pouring over the mountain like a waterfall, and coming down the mountainside toward us. What a sight and feeling. Right then, I realized I was getting cold...the temperature was dropping rapidly, about 25 degrees in just 6 to 8 minutes.
We had a nice dinner last night, carne and arroz (beef and rice) with fresh tomatoes and cucumbers. Frank was in more pain than usual...asked if I minded if he rested longer, and to leave later tomorrow (Thursday).
And Thursday is our malaria pill day. We haven’t had the slightest threat by the so-called prevalent maladies and diseases or infections; just lucky, I guess. Traveling through the villages, we look for correos (post offices), none...and no carriers or delivery vehicles.
Well, we did it again...went on reserve, and worried for 30 miles, and out of the desert, a mirage, a gas station...no, it’s a trick...yes!! A gas pump! I’ll be damned!
I am so excited, and we’re here, about to enter Santiago. Like Frank says, we’re about to enter our 3rd and final phase. The ride today, and getting this far, is euphoria for me. I feel energetic and excited to continue to Ushuaia.
01/24/02 THE TRIP ENDS FOR ME My adventure ended in Santiago, Chile.
My KLR was in bad shape, tires shot, both sprockets shot, chain stretched beyond saving, and etc. It was also very pavement-worn from being down so much, (darn). I took hwy 68 out of Santiago to Valparaiso and arrived there at dusk, too late to get anything done to get my bike shipped to the states. So I checked into a hotel and didn't get much sleep because I was so upset that I wouldn't be completing my trip to Ushuaia.
Next morning, I started the process of arranging passage for my bike (a nightmare). I found a policeman who was wonderful and willing to help, but after 2 hours of following him around, (and my bike was in bad shape, and on reserve), we finally located a shipping company, Flamingo, ....talked with, ‘Claudia’, on the phone, with much difficulty. She and the policeman agreed that I couldn't negotiate anything unless I had a domicile,...meaning I had to return to the hotel I had checked out of. So the policeman helped find the hotel from my receipt. Claudia was to call me there in 10 ‘meenits’.
After an hour and a half, I got the hotel lady to call Claudia; this resulted in Claudia calling me back about 20 times, (maddening). She said I had to get my bike to the aduana in San Antonio, about 2 hrs away. I told her my bike was disabled and wouldn't make it. She said she would call me back.
She called back and said she would have my bike picked up in about a week.
‘What am I supposed to do in the meantime?’
She said, ‘You can make the shipping arrangements then.’
I had been at this for about 5 hours now. When I hung up the phone, I was depressed. I started adding up the dollars. About $1,000 for shipping, $200 or $300 to pick it up in Houston in a couple of months, the necessary repairs, the hotel expense to stay to make the arrangements; I started questioning the effort.
I asked the hotel lady, as best I could, ‘Adonde moto vendor?’
She understood, and picked up the phone and called, handed me the phone to try to talk to another lady, at the moto vendor. This took 15 or 20 call backs before I finally got the idea that the vendor was only 2 blocks away, and that they wanted me to bring it over there.
I drove my beloved KLR over there and parked on the sidewalk in front of this awful looking place. A young man approached me, and said ‘Quantas?’
(How much do you want?) I said $500 US dollars. He went into conference with some of his associates, returned to me and said, ‘Ok, but you have take to the aduana in San Antonio to get the paper.’
I said: ‘I want to leave today, and I don't want to go to the aduana's office.’
He said: ‘Dis a beeg a prublem.’
After awhile, he approached me and said, ‘Sell for parts.’
I said, ‘Ok, how much?’
‘$300 american dollares.’ He then said, ‘Un moment, par pavor.’ After some more discussion with assoc., ‘Beeg prublem, legal prublem.’ ‘Eeets eemposible.’
Ater several minutes of doing nothing but standing and fretting, I started unloading my bike with things I thought I could carry to the bus station 4 blocks away (so frustrated, I was ready to just leave it).
He approached me again, ‘Maybee solution, un momento.’
‘Otre hombre say he,....200 american dolla'ers, and 100 euro.’
I said, ‘Fine, and took the money.’
I gave them the title, and walked away from my wonderful KLR, parked in front of this awful place, to be cannibalized.
I caught a bus to Santiago, booked a flight for that midnight, and was home in Omaha at 11:00 next day.
My KLR didn’t deserve the ending it received! The engine still ran great, always started, such a reliable friend. If it had gotten the maintenance, the tires, the proper chain lube (Frank told me it was the wrong lube).
I slept well last night and am happy to be home with my Kath. My right knee is still giving me pain and I suspect I'll have to get an x-ray to see what needs to be done.
I loved the ride and experiencing the people and the scenery. It was an exhilarating experience! I'm glad I did it and I wish my friend Frank success and good health to his Ushuaia goal.
Our veteran travellers share their tips (and great stories) for staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure.
"A fantastic, informative and inspirational DVD."
"It's brilliant - thank you very much!"
Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'ONTHEROAD' on your order when you checkout.
Next HU Events
- USA North Carolina: Sept. 4-7
- France Mini: Sep 5-7
- Canada Ontario: Sept. 11-14
- NEW! UK - Haggs Bank: Sept. 19-21
- USA California: Sept. 25-28
- Aus Queensland: Oct 3-6
- Aus Perth: Oct 10-12
- Aus VIC: Oct 24-26
- NEW! Aus NSW: Oct 31-Nov 2
- NEW! South Africa: Nov 13-16
- NEW! HUMM Morocco: May 13-16, 2015
What others say about HU...
"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada
"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia
"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders
10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!
NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!
Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!
What turns you on to motorcycle travel?
Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
Books & DVDs
All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.
MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!
Story and photos copyright © All Rights Reserved.
Contact the author:
Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.
Hosted by: Horizons
Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!