Caroline and Beau arrived home in Khartoum today, just in time to rush to the bank with a sackful of cash.
Posted by Ken Thomas at August 30, 2011 07:11 PM GMT
I don't have a full report yet, but Beau's bike must be going pretty well now for them to have made such good time.
After departing Addis Ababa early on Saturday, they crossed into Sudan at Metema on Monday, wild camped on Monday night and arrived home around midday today, Tuesday.
The rush, it turned out, was brought about by a short notice announcement that old Sudanese banknotes must be changed for new, by close of business today. Any not changed are now only good for lighting shisha pipes (hubble bubbles). It seems the end date was only recently announced.
The new banknotes were introduced last month, with designs that remove all symbols and illustrations relating to South Sudan, which now has its own currency in circulation.
So they overcame a lot of difficulties since Nairobi, and although needing a good deal of nurturing and attention, the Yamahas brought them home in the end, and in time.
But work schedules have also been turned upsidedown through the birth of the new country of South Sudan.
Consequently, Caroline flies straight back to Nairobi late tonight. Whaaaat!! After overcoming all those mechanical adversities the last couple of weeks, and two African border-crossings, to reach Khartoum???
Yes, the demand for English teaching in the south has rocketed past all expectations, so Caroline is awaited back in Juba (via Nairobi) to meet up with another teacher. They'll start a tour of South Sudan provincial capitals to assess all prospective students and assign them to appropriate classes. Then the British Council can arrange the right numbers of the right teachers to be ready for the start of term in a couple of weeks, by which time Caroline will be back home in Khartoum to start the term with her new class. Not much spare time there then.
Beau has a little more time, starting back at the University next week. But he'll have two bikes worth of stuff to unload and find space for, and I know how overwhelming it can be to unload just one bike after it's been lived on for a year or so.
Still no photos, and I suppose the dust of that lot will have to settle a bit first. There was no internet at their flat on arrival today, and as usual, no real prediction of when there will be.
So well done to them for the speedy and safe ride from Addis, on a loaded 250cc and a loaded 225cc Yamaha. And for managing the fairly major repair in the Ethiopian capital.
I'm reminded of a quotation carried in a recent edition of Bike Bits, the internet newsletter of the US Adventure Cycling Association: "All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveller is unaware." Martin Buber, 1878-1965.
How true. Never forget it.
To find out if there were any significant news items on the roads while Caroline and Beau have been on their journey, I've been reading some blogs by people recently travelling through East Africa. And it's very sad.
Yes, Sudan, Ethiopia and Egypt aren't easy countries to travel through by road on your own vehicle. The cultures and driving philosophies simply cannot be compared to the West in any way at all. The same with Kenya but maybe not so extreme. So it's a little depressing to read accounts that, for example, are blatantly rude and insulting to ordinary Ethiopians just for wanting to walk on their own roads with their own children/carts/cattle/farm implements. This despite the number of intelligent forums on various websites explaining the most fundamental differences that exist between East Africa and western cultures when it comes to the use of the roads. So I hope Caroline and Beau weren't following too closely behind the authors of some of those blogs - the locals wouldn't have been very welcoming towards yet more foreign travellers using their roads so soon after those earlier ones. It's no wonder that locals who are well-read enough to know what's written about their countries are so keen to remind you to tell everyone back home that it's really not like that, at all.
To anyone reading this and planning a journey through East Africa, it's easy. In rural areas where people and animals are all over the roads, with not many vehicles, well, that's why the roads are there. For people and animals to do what they need to do in a day (which will be far more important to them and their families, than for a westerner to do what he/she wants to do in a day). So you have to give way to them. And they won't like you very much if they acknowledge and wave to you, and you don't return it.
So here's another quote from the excellent Bike Bits:
"When you travel, remember that a foreign country is not designed to make you comfortable. It is designed to make its own people comfortable."
Clifton Fadiman, 1904-1999.
How true. Never forget it.
Finally, another Youtube (there're so many of them!)
Daily Telegraph readers may have seen this already, or maybe the BBC have already carried it - I don't know I hardly watch it.
But can someone offer a clear analysis of the mechanics of this??
I don't understand it. Why didn't another dozen riders fall off just watching it?
And who'll be first to add the new lesson to the marshall's training manual?
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