I started riding in a beetle-shower, that was one very disgusting thing.
Beetles, the size of my thumb, by the millions, even at only 60 km/hr,
smashed on the bike, on my helmet, the headlight grill was clogged with
them... Yukk! And they smell bad. ... I haven't seen anything like this.
Everybody said that it is dangerous in the countryside, but I decided
to camp in the bush. And there was no problem, I have learned much earlier
how to camp without being seen by anyone.
In and around Sullana and Piura I was amazed by these things called
"mototaxi" this is a small cc motorcycle ending in a cart. Yes,
two wheels in the back. And their shapes, colours, designs and size is
different from one to another. Amazing! And you have to know, that there
are no traffic rules here! Just keep honking, and go. I tell you, until
you have seen it, you can't imagine it. This is chaos!
After I have seen Trujillo and the ruins of ChanChan I headed towards
the mountains. Bad mistake, but I didn't know at that time... although
it is dry season on the coast, in the mountains it is raining. I rode
the bad roads of Cañon del Pato, and it was a beautiful place,
but the level of difficulty, the cold and the amount of rain flowing through
my underwear did not justify it. Now that it is over, I am still glad
that I did it. These are two contradicting sentences, but that's how I
feel about the ride.
Alpamayo, Huandoy, Huascaran and the other giants in the Cordillera
Blanca were covered with clouds, and I had to decide what do I want: do
the hike around the Huascaran as I planned from home, or get out of the
rain. I think I decided correctly when I headed south riding the bike,
because after an hour the clouds became threateningly black and the wind
behind me made me ride a little faster. Faster? I don't know, this is
the Andes, the road has thousands of turns, like a huge flat serpent lying
among the valleys and 4000+ m high passes. I had to take aspirin a few
times, because otherwise the headache took my attention away.
The road from Chiquian towards Huanaco started as a paved road, despite
what the map showed. It turned out that it is a private road, built and
maintained by a mining company at Antaminas. The guard told me, that I
can not enter. I started to talk to him, asking about the road, and other
roads that go to Huanaco. Then we talked about the motorcycle, about the
economy, politics and girls - of course. After about a half-hour of friendly
conversation I was free to go, and the guy gave me even his magazine of
local female celebrities. I guess this trip for me is a great lesson of