September 02, 2005 GMT

Two night stop on Lefkada island, which can be reached by bridge. Too much sun and not enough internet cafes mean I am not so interested in updating this in detail at the moment. I will fill in the gaps later.

This pool was at the top of a mountain above Nidri.

Lots of bikes around - mainly locals and Italians. I haven't seen a full dress tourer yet - everyone is on trail style bikes or hybrids. GS's, V-stroms, Transalps, Africa Twins by the score. A few sports bikes - number plates seem entirely optional, so there are some very nice rear ends that don't have anywhere you could even put a plate. The police must be very understanding around here.

Found that my decison to leave Romania with 200 GBP in Lei was very stupid - I can't change it now. Hope I can do it in London.

Saw a bad scooter accident just after it happened. Not terribly surprised - the Greeks are the worst drivers I have seen. The scooter had caved in the front of the car quite badly. The rider was still laying there, blood all over the road - no helmet. He was conscious but it didn't look good.

Posted by Kevin Payne at 12:12 PM GMT

Moved further up the coast and got a ferry to Corfu. First two nights in Corfu town, which is quite an attractive place. Must have had my 100th Greek salad by now - trying to eat myself healthy...

Third night at the Dolphin snack bar in Paleokastritsa - 25 Euro makes it the cheapest yet, and its in a beautiful spot on a tiny beach. Food and beer on the premises - great choice. Took the camera out on a pedalo - swimming and water cycling goes towards the fitness regime today. Toured around a little the next day.

Lots of very steep 1st gear hairpins, and the road surface is worn shiny with use - the locals can slide their back wheels at will on both power and brakes. Nice on a supermoto but not something I want to test on mine - emergency stops on a sports bike could be worrying here. Even the Pan locks the front occasionally on hard braking - bit scary but if you leave extra braking distance some cretin in a car will be tempted in to a stupid overtake just so he can fill the hole....

Now booked on a ferry to Brindisi tonight. It doesn't leave until just after midnight, so killing time in the internet cafe again. Wearing my Alpinestars MX boots ( London despatch rider street cred, 15 years old - and look it ) and a vest top - getting a few odd looks, but if I change them I have nowhere to leave them while I wander....

Posted by Kevin Payne at 12:14 PM GMT
September 09, 2005 GMT
Ferry to Italy

Left Corfu about 1am on a ferry bound for Brindisi. No cabins available and people sleeping all over the floor - a real pleasure. Arrived in Italy about 7.30am and set off for Taranto \ Mercate. Mercate was a real find - very pretty.

Got caught in an incredibly heavy storm so just grabbed the nearest hotel. I left the bike in the street with the bow wave from the sidestand reaching the fairing lowers. When the rain died down I rode it through a foot of water in to the hotel car park....wet again....

Posted by Kevin Payne at 03:09 PM GMT

The capital city of the trulli - odd white cone shaped Italian houses.

Nice place, also close to Castellana cave complex. Guided tour in Italian was of course very helpful....


Posted by Kevin Payne at 03:11 PM GMT
Gargano Peninsula

First hotel turned out to be a nightmare and I had my first real dispute with anyone - got given a room where the shower soaked the whole room and the manager spoke no English and was very unhelpful - but managed to get in to another just as another incredibly heavy storm let loose. Soaked. Eating in dark restaurant with wet feet - lightning showing the view across the sea every few minutes.

Next morning was fine - pretty ride up the coast to Pescara.


After this, I need to put some miles on so I move up the coast by motorway - Ancona and then in to Turin. Some very busy roads. Get very wet as I leave Turin heading for the French border - luckily a lot of the route seems to be through tunnels. Dark but dry.....

Posted by Kevin Payne at 03:14 PM GMT

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