May 02, 2006 GMT
Iran 2

Colin has found that the non- alcholic beer is perfectlly acceptable ! The people have been so friendly and helpful. The further South we went and into the hotter weather, we were offered bread and water from passing cars.
You must be very wary of the Speed bumps that are suddenly there- I have not come off the back - yet ! There are alot of mosques on the side of the road and all hotel rooms have an arrow on the ceiling pointing to Mecca.
The shops stay open till 10pm and it is heaving with people, closed 2-5pm.Most of the towns have all clothing shops in one street, electric supplies together etc.
All towns display large posters of the military who have lost their lives in the recent wars.

18th april we went from Kerman to Bam through mountainous desert ares at 27- 30 degrees.Alot of Abobe houses here.
Bam is a city that was devastated by an eartquake 2 1/2 years ago and thousands died. people are still living in tents, corrugated buildings and part concrete areas. you can still see the houses with cracks up the sides and front. It is like a huge building site with construction people brought in from all over. Some houses have been rebuilt in concrete but now the foundations are 10- 12 feet deep with reinforced steel concrete.
Shops are selling their wares from Shipping containers- row upon row of them. One proudly had about 20 handbags hanging from hooks in the internal wall .

It is still a bustling and thriving city and a credit to the people , who have literally, tried to rebuild their lives from the rubble- and are succeeding. A tribute to human endeavour.

The Citadel ( the old walled city ) is completely flattened. The houses here were made of mud and clay. It is open to the public- and suprisingly, there is no charge. It is a place of tranquility and reflection on the power of nature.
The lady who had a teahouse just on the entry to the old city and was very proud that she was mentioned in Lonely Planet has now set up under some trees and still offers hospitality to the thirsty visitor.

We stayed at Akabar's Tourist Guest house ( the only place in town ). He told us that the quake happened at 5.15 am on boxing day and that they were living on the streets for 6 days.He still has tears in his eyes when he speaks of it. It took him a year to clear the rubble but he was offering a bed to the traveller within 5 months of the quake.
He now has 2 shower, loo and wash basin in a steel container and 3 double bedrooms in a concrete corrugated roof building. The family sleep in the courtyard on steel framed cots. he is rebuilding the Guest house along side the original. It will have 14 rooms and a restaurant .
Akbar lost many members of his family and a visiting motor cyclist from UK was killed. Akbar still has his bike and says he will always keep it.

The attitude of all the people is of great resiliance-- it has happened and now we must rebuils- and make Bam better than it was.

19th April from Bam to Zahadan. This is the Special Economic Zone area ( disputed tribal areas ) and Balluchistan . It was here that we had a police escort to the hotel and told not to go out by ourselves . Later that evening we had an armed police escort to go and buy fruit and water.
20th and onto Taftan. We had armed police escort out of town and they handed us over to the next check point.There are many Police checks and you have to be careful of the metal spikes recessed in the road and operated on a lever system. At each check we had to wait for the escort to drive back from the next checkpoint up the road and then escort us on wards. This process took at least an hour each time and there were 3 of them ! Sometimes we were able to wait tin the shade and others- not.( A very hot and demanding couple of days.)
200 K of sand duned desert at 40 degrees. At each stop we were shown the water tap to wash. The escort left us after the 1st pakistan check post and we went into "No Mans land ". Then onto Iran exit and that was a joke, as they told you to go here there and everywhere- and none of it was signposted ! And so into Pakistan where it was very efficient and we were through on 3 1/2 hours. We gained 1 1/2 hours at the border and are now 4 hours in advance of UK. Total miles 6078

Posted by Dee Masters at May 02, 2006 06:12 AM GMT
 
 

NEW! HU 2015 Motorcycle Adventure Travel Calendar is now available! Get your copy now for some terrific travel inspiration!

HUGE, 11.5 x 16.5 inches, beautifully printed in Germany on top quality stock! Photos are the winning images from over 600 entries in the 9th Annual HU Photo Contest!

Horizons Unlimited 2015 Motorcycle Adventure Travel Calendar.

"The calendar is magnificent!"

"I just wanted to say how much I'm loving the new, larger calendar!"

We share the profit with the winning photographers. YOU could be in the HU Calendar too - enter here!

Next HU Eventscalendar

See all events

 

Latvia to Australia, an inspirational 5 month journey full of unexpected adventures!

HU DVD Autumn Special!

Take 40% off Road Heroes Part 1 until October 31 only!

Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries two-up on a Harley); Dr. Greg Frazier (5 times RTW); Tiffany Coates (RTW solo female); and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).

The first in an exciting new series, Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers."Inspiring and hilarious!"

"I loved watching this DVD!"

"Lots of amazing stories and even more amazing photographs, it's great fun and very inspirational."

"Wonderful entertainment!"

Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'HEROES' on your order when you checkout.

 

Scottoiler automatic chain oilers. The most important accessory for your next motorcycle adventure!

Renedian Adventures

Renedian Adventures

What others say about HU...

"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada

"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia

"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders

contest pic

10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!

NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!

HU 2014 T-shirts now in!

Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!


What turns you on to motorcycle travel?


Global Rescue, WORLDwide evacuation services for EVERYONE

Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!


New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.


Books & DVDs

amazon

All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.


Motorcycle Express for shipping and insurance!

Motorcycle Express

MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!

Story and photos copyright ©

Sorry, you need a Javascript enabled browser to get the email address and dates. You can contact Horizons Unlimited at the link below. Please be sure to tell us WHICH blog writer you wish to contact.

All Rights Reserved.

Contact the author:

Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.

Hosted by: Horizons Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!