Hi, my name is Jill Maden and in 2010/11 I rode a Suzuki SV650 around the eastern half of Australia (Part 1). It was a monster of a machine and piled high with far too much luggage it was a nightmare to control.
In 2014 I am returning to ride around the western half of Australia (Part 2) but this time I'll be doing it on a much smaller bike, a Honda CT110 or Postie Bike as they're known in Australia. I'll be riding on both sealed and unsealed roads so it should make for an interesting trip.
I hope you enjoy reading about my adventures.
Monday 29 September 2014
|Australia 2014 - (10) Alice Springs to Ayres Rock|
After taking Ruby for her 1,000 km service (at 1,700 km) at Desert Edge Motorcycles in Alice and being served by the rather lovely smelling Dallas, I headed back down the Stuart Highway towards Ayres Rock. It was 10 am before I was on the road and the temperature was already extremely hot.
I had 443 km to cover to get to Ayres Rock and it just kept getting hotter. I had a 2 litre hydration pack on my back, a litre of Hydralyte in a bottle and another one litre bottle of water. By the time I got to Curtain Springs I’d sucked every one of these dry and even a chilled bottle of Powerade at the road house didn’t cool me down. In fact, I was starting to feel decidedly weak. Part of me thought I should just stay there the night and give up trying to get to Uluru for sunset, but the other part of me didn’t want to have to pitch my tent twice, so I pressed on.
When I eventually arrived in a heaving, sweaty mess, the girl at reception said, “Ah, it’s only 34.8 today, that’s nothing.” “We don’t even have temperatures that high in Scotland,” I replied, but she thought I was kidding.
I was completely exhausted by the time I’d put my tent up and even a cold shower didn’t really cool me down, so a trip to the base of the rock for sunset photos was out of the question. At least I’d managed to get some shots of Mt Conner on the way in.
Friday 26 - Sunday 28 September 2014
|Australia 2014 - (9) Alice Springs|
Unlike the day before which had been freezing, it was a good ride up from Kulgera to Alice Springs – sunny but not too hot and best of all, no wind.
Alice Springs sits at about 600 m (2000 ft) so the road was slowly rising again. Bland bush gave way to rugged hilly outcrops and the earth became redder.
I arrived in Alice about 12.30 pm and went straight over to Dave and Cec’s place. Dave was one of the guys I’d met on the Postie Bike Challenge who had very kindly offered me a place to stay. It was great to see him again and meet his wife Cec. That evening they took me up to Anzac Hill to watch the sunset which gave great views of the town and the general lie of the land.
The next day Dave took me on a tour of the local surroundings. We stopped at the Transport Museum to see how much it would cost to get in should I want to go back myself, then the Uterne Solar Power Station – a mass of solar panels which Dave advised is due to be quadrupled in size over the next few years.
Alice Springs is surrounded by the McDonnell Ranges to the east and west, so next we headed out of town to Honeymoon gap, a place where the limestone ranges were carved through by ancient rivers when the continent was still forming. Today the river was dry but still flows in times of heavy rain. Next stop was Simpson Gap, another place where a gap has been formed by erosion. There was a group of rock wallabies at the foot of the cliffs – alas they were too quick and too far away for me to catch any photos.
After that we went back to Dave’s and collected Cec and went out to the Ellery Creek Big Hole, a gorgeous permanent swimming hole 88 km out of town. A swim and some lunch later we headed back into Alice to the old Telegraph Station. This is the only remaining original telegraph station of the Overland Telegraph Line (O/T Line) that ran from Darwin to Adelaide and connected Australia with the rest of the world via the subsea cable from Asia.
Not content with what had already been a pretty busy day by my standards, Dave and Cec then took me out to some claypans just out of town for a BBQ. I could barely keep my eyes open by the time we got home.
On Sunday, Dave and Cec had other commitments so I took myself off to explore the city. I had been there back in 1989 but it was too long ago for me to remember anything much. After a morning of wandering around the shops and the Sunday craft market, I took a tour of the Royal Flying Doctor Service (RFDS) museum. The RFDS is another amazing service that has developed to to service the people living in remote Australia. From humble beginnings back in 1928 it now has 61 aircraft and 21 bases across the country meaning no-one is ever more than 2 hours from a major hospital.
Thursday 25 September 2014
|Australia 2014 - (8) Coober Pedy to Alice Springs|
I’m not sure if I haven’t been drinking enough or what, but the light seems to have been playing tricks with me today. Packing up my tent, I kept seeing a shadow out of the corner of my eye, but then when I looked, there was no-one there. Then, on the road to Kulgera, I had a weird sense of someone watching me whenever I stopped.
The light was also creating mirages on the road, making it look as if there was water ahead. Of course, I never got to it, it just stayed the same distance from me. And, as if all that wasn’t enough, I kept feeling like I was going to fall asleep in the saddle (I’ve not been sleeping that well). I eventually pulled over to have a lie down but couldn’t find a suitable spot so downed some Hydralyte instead and that seemed to put an end to it.
Then, about 40 km from Kulgera, again, a man was walking along the roadside, pushing a sort of trolley. After miles of being the only vehicle on the road, a 4 x 4 appeared out of nowhere and overtook me just as I got level with the guy, so apart from tooting my horn at him, I wasn’t able to stop and find out what on earth he was doing there. What is it with men walking along deserted highways 40 km from a town?
Wednesday 24 September 2014
|Australia 2014 - (7) Coober Pedy|
In the afternoon I took a bus tour of Coober Pedy. The town was founded in the early nineteen hundreds when opals were found there, prompting something of an opal rush which is still going on today. The whole town in surrounded by mounds of sandstone drilled out in the mining process. Anyone can stake a claim – all you have to do is go along to the Council Offices, pay $150 and state which lot you’d like. Each lot is either 50 m x 50 m or 50 m x 100 m. You, and preferably a couple of friends, then go off to your site, use a large drill to dig down up to 30 m (as this is as deep as opal can be found) and see if you can find the precious gems.
Our guide told us various stories of huge gains and losses. It costs around $1000 a day just for the diesel required to power the drill, tunnelling machine and giant vacuum that sucks all the rubble back out, so at that price, a lot of miners now have day jobs and just do it on the weekend.
The other remarkable thing about Coober Pedy is that because it gets so hot there that people started moving into the old mine shafts and there are a huge number of underground homes. I have to confess, I thought the whole town would be underground, but there are also quite a lot of surface homes too. The whole place looks a bit scruffy but our guide assured us, some of the underground homes are worth over AU$350,000.
We went to a museum based in an old mine which had living quarters as well as mining tunnels. I think I would find the whole living underground thing quite claustrophobic but I can understand why people do it.
Wednesday 24 September 2014
|Australia 2014 - (6) Port Augusta to Coober Pedy|
I left Port Augusta yesterday and started making my way north. Originally I had planned on returning to Marree from Adelaide and taking the Oodnadatta Track to Marla, but having survived the 1000-odd km of dirt tracks on the Postie Bike Challenge, I didn’t want to risk doing it alone. It’s one thing doing dirt when you’re in a supported group, but quite another when you’re on your own and your bike is weighed down with luggage.
Instead, I took the Stuart Highway north. I wasn’t sure how far I’d go, I’d wait and see how I felt. It was windy and Ruby was struggling to keep at 80 km/h. But what a ride – a beautiful flat plain with the Flinders Rangers behind me and small mounds and escarpments in the distance ahead of me.
About 30 km in four dark men in black leathers on Harley-Davidsons passed me. They didn’t wave and accepting their undoubted dominance of the road, neither did I. A few km further on they’d pulled over and were walking back toward a small salt lake at the side of the road. This time, as I chugged past, they all waved and smiled at me.
The road seemed to be rising and Ruby was down to 70 km/h. A series of road trains whipped me as they passed and I discovered the best thing to do was duck down on my tank and reduce the surface my torso provided for the wind to hit. Even worse though was being overtaken by one – then you’d get caught in the slipstream and get towed in a zig-zagging dance behind them.
At Pimba I stopped to fill up and the four Black Angels were there. Immediately one of them came up to me and advised me there was a 250 km stretch to Coober Pedy with no fuel so to make sure I had enough. I wasn’t sure I was going that far but I had a full 5 litre jerry can on board so would be all right if I did.
Inside the road house we got chatting. The boys were on their annual two week ride together and on their way to Alice Springs. “So is that a 500?” one of them asked. “Hah, no, it’s a 125,” I replied. They couldn’t believe I was touring round Australia on such a small bike.
At Glendambo I caught up with them again. It was 1 pm and I had a decision to make – would I continue on to Coober Pedy or stay there? I reckoned it would take me another 4 hours to get to CP but it would mean I could then complete the remaining mileage to Alice in two days not three so I decided to press on.
That was a long 4 hours. The wind and gradually rising incline had me down to 60 km/h in some places and fatigue meant I was stopping more often. My accelerator hand was aching again from holding the power on. But again, the stunning scenery had me captivated. Long stretches of wooded bush, followed by acres of empty plains. And BIG, BIG skies.
About 40 km from Coober Pedy I saw a guy walking along the roadside. I slowed down to see if he was all right. “Yes, I’m fine,” he replied so I carried on but I couldn’t figure out what on earth he was doing there, miles from anywhere, walking along. A few ks further I saw what appeared to be some mining works so I presumed he must have been making his way there, but where on earth from?
It was 5.15 when I rolled into CP. I found the caravan park and used the hammer I’d bought in Adelaide to whack my tent pegs into the concrete-like ground. Half way through the night, the wind got up and practically blew my fly-sheet off. I jumped out of bed and removed it before it was carried away and spent the rest of the night curled into my two sleeping bags protected only by the inner shell of the tent.
Needless to say, I’m feeling very weary today but a tour of the town to look forward to this afternoon.
Monday 22 September 2014
I loaded up Ruby and left Adelaide yesterday. Although I have considerably less luggage than my last trip to Oz, it still takes my two panniers, a top box and another small bag to carry it all, so looking at a picture it doesn't look like I have much less than I had before.
|Australia 2014 - (4) Adelaide to Port Augusta|
Nevertheless, although needing a bit more power to get started, Ruby stepped up to the task admirably. Having said that, I struggled to get her over 90 km/h but after a top speed of 80 km/h on the Postie Bike, 90 feels like I'm racing along.
It wasn't just the bike that was slow though, I wasn't really ready to leave Adelaide. After all the rushing around, I could have done with a day to recover, but I didn't want to be trying to find my way out of the city first thing on a Monday morning so I reckoned a Sunday departure would be better. And it was, but I found I was reluctant to do any long distances and kept stopping for fuel or sight-seeing breaks.
I took the same route out of Adelaide as I did last time as I wanted to see the pink lake again (which wasn't as pink) but it was a busy road and it would have been better to have gone through the Flinders Ranges.
I've been missing my Postie Biker friends. It's strange waking up on my own again and not having a tired, smiling face staring back at me. Not to worry, should see one of them when I arrive in Alice Springs in a few days.
Saturday 20 September 2014
Well, it's been a busy few days. After our night in the swanky 5* Rydges Hotel it was time to move on for most people. I bit back the tears and said my final farewells then Walshy, one of the Postie Bike riders who lives in Adelaide, gave me a lift to the youth hostel.
No sooner had I checked in than I went straight back out to find the Honda showroom. It was going to be too complicated to buy my Postie Bike or to go back to Brisbane and collect one from One Ten Motorcycles so I'd decicded just to buy a new bike instead. You have to have a local address to register a vehicle in Australia so Pete, one of my friends here in Adelaide, met me at the showroom and within an hour I had test ridden, bought and registered a new Honda CB125e. She's bright red, so this time, I'm calling her Ruby.
On Friday I went to collect Ruby and took her straight up to the Adelaide Hills where I was staying with Pete and Suzie for the night. Ruby is a lovely little bike to ride but I wonder how she'll fair under the weight of all my luggage.
Had a great visit with Pete and Suzie then made my way back to the city and spent the afternoon buying various bits and pieces for my onward journey.
From here I'm going to head north, probably to Port Augusta tomorrow, then on the Coopers Pedy then Alice Springs and Ayres Rock.
|Australia 2014 - (3) Postie Bike Challenge|
Day 1 (Sunday 7 September 2014) – Brisbane to Chinchilla
It was an early start – I was up at 4.30 am with the intention of having breakfast before leaving the hostel, but the kitchen was closed and I had to abandon my food and make for the train station instead. I got the 5.34 am train to Mooroka then a taxi at 6.00 am to the Pro Honda garage where the Postie Bike Challenge was starting from. We’d set up our bikes the day before at the registration day so it was a quick route briefing and we were off.
First section was on motorway. We had running sheets attached to our handlebars and thankfully I was following another guy (John) who was doing a better job of following them than I was as I’d have missed the turn off for Esk if he hadn’t turned off ahead of me.
Off the motorway it became very pastoral as we headed over the Great Dividing Range. I was loving it – the bike was so easy to ride and very stable.
The Postie Bikes only hold enough fuel to cover about 120 km. To supplement this we have a 5 litre jerry can in our milk crates which gives us another 150 km, but as today’s total mileage was 361 km we had a refuel at Goombungee. From there we continued through various small towns then had a diversion off the main road to see the Dingo Fence near Jandowae. After this I missed the next turn to “Warra 26” and was 20 km off course when Andy, one of the support team, caught up with me and made me turn around and go back. That added an additional 40 km onto my journey causing me to run out of petrol 12 km from our destination of Chinchilla, just as the rain started pouring down. I had to pull onto the side of a very busy road and tip in the last of my fuel before finally making it to the showgrounds at Chinchilla where we were staying for the night.
As it was still pouring down, I set up my tent in a small cattle shed on top of a pile of hay and old manure – “a shit place to sleep”, according to Christian, one of the other riders. It made me laugh.
Day 2 (Monday 8 September 2014) – Chinchilla to Nindigully Pub
The day started well – I was up at 5am with my tent down and everything packed by breakfast (our meals are provided by local community groups). I made good time to the refuel at Condamine then mis-read my running sheets and missed the next turning to “Meandarra 52”. There was a column on the sheets that gives the mileage to the next point – what I didn’t realise was that the number given is a cumulative total, not the next distance to be covered. Consequently, I wasn’t even expecting there to be a turn off outside Condamine as the distance to the turn, as I read it, was 61.5 km. What it actually meant was at the 61.5km point there was a turn off (as we were already at 58.3 km this mean the turn would be in about 3 km, not 61.5). Sometime later when I got to a sign for “Meandarra 38” and no-one else was around, I figured something had gone wrong. As “38” seemed less distance than “52” I took this road and eventually got the Meandarra around the same time as everyone else. It was only when Andy pulled up in the support car and asked what had happened to me that I realised my mistake. Unbeknownst to me, some of the other riders had seen me miss the turn, alerted Dan (the organiser) and he’d gone 50 km after me before Andy was able to confirm that I’d shown up in Meandarra.
Given the chaos I’d caused, I decided I’d better ride with someone else from then on, so turned to the two guys next to me (Pete and Stew) and asked if I could ride with them. And thank goodness I did as the last stretch to the Nindigully Pub was on a gravel track. Stew took off at 80 km/h and as I was between him and Pete, I thought I’d better keep up and whizzed along the thing at 80 km/h too. It was a bit scary going into some of the turns and I quickly learnt using the brakes was not the way to approach them. Rolling off the power worked better as it avoided the back wheel locking up.
When we pulled into pub, it seemed news of my slight detour had reached the rest of the support crew asevery time I passed one them, I got some comment about “What way did you come, Jill?” Cheeky beggars!
Day 3 (Tuesday 9 September 2014) – Nindigully Pub to Charleville
The next morning, as if to make up for slagging me yesterday, Scott (the mechanic) greeted me by saying “So how’s the wonderful and lovely Jill today?” I had to give him a kiss for that and it left me grinning all morning.
Having learnt my lesson about riding alone, I asked a man I’d been chatting to at the Dingo Fence the day before, Dave (Cardiac Surgeon from Sydney) if I could ride with him. It was slow going as there was a strong headwind along the 250 km road to Mitchell. But what beautiful scenery – huge panoramas of empty bushlands.
I made the mistake of eating an apple at the fuel stop at Mitchell which left me very parched and thirsty and feeling quite odd. When we came into Morven I was completely overheating and had to strip out my jacket liner and dowse myself in water to cool down.
The road from Morven to Charleville I’d done on my last trip so felt I was coming into familiar territory here.
We camped at the showgrounds at Charleville and I almost cried with laughter when Pete’s chair collapsed beneath him during dinner.
Day 4 (Wednesday 10 September 2014) – Charleville to Windorah
As there were only six turns to make on our running sheets for the day, I started off alone, thinking even I couldn’t go wrong with that. I hadn’t gone far before I caught up with Ned so rode with him as far as the roadhouse at Cooladdi. Here, Diana, one of the six women on the trip, noticed there was oil all over my front mudguard. Fortunately, Andy was there and tightened my “tappit” which seemed to fix the problem.
Some distance further on, Andy passed me in the support car and indicated for me to pull in. Now my brake light was jammed on. Scott sorted this by wiggling a wire at the refuel at Quilpie.
In Quilpie I had a Powerade with Pete and Stew who then offered for me to ride with them. Unfortunately the Powerade went straight through me and within 50 km I had to leave them and head for the bush for an emergency toilet stop.
Today was a good day. Saw my first live kangaroo (as opposed to all the road kill), some emus, lots of cows and sheep, some wild horses and two emergency airstrips painted on the road.
At dinner, Scott came up to me and informed me my footpeg had fallen off my bike. I couldn’t believe it, surely I would have noticed something like that? But right enough, when I went to have a look, it was gone. Once again, I had become the butt of the support crew’s mirth.
Day 5 (Thursday 11 September 2014) – Windorah to Birdsville
Today’s ride started out wonderfully. After leaving Windorah, we entered the vast plains of the Channel Country. Only a few escarpments in the very distance stood in the way of uninterrupted views for miles and miles.
The first 110 km were on bitumen. We all rallied together at the end of this, just before we entered the dirt road of the Birdville Development Track. From there on in, my riding fell apart. I’d asked Dan the night before for some pointers on riding the dirt and he’d said the main thing is to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible by putting pressure into the footpegs and if the bike starts to wobble just to let it and it will usually right itself.
I started off down the track at 60 km/h, doing just what he’d said. But it was terrifying. Everytime I hit a trench of gravel, the bike would start to wobble and it felt like it would surely go over. By the refuel point 100 km later I was down to 50 km/h. After that the road became a carved up mess of gouges with deep corrugations, sand pits and gravel grooves to get caught in. The remaining 200 km into Birdsville was the most gruelling riding I’ve ever done. I was down to 30 km/h. The corrugations were bone shaking and by the time I got into Birdsville my arms were aching with having gripped so tightly (a phenomena called arm pump). I was one of the last to reach the town and as I rolled into the campground, Scott told me I’d have to go back out and fuel up at the petrol station as Dan had had to take two people to hospital and wouldn’t be doing the refuel in the usual way.
John, an elderly English man, and I had done the last 30 km together and when I pulled into the petrol station behind him and took off my helmet I burst into tears. I was completely shattered and the emotional and physical pounding of the day had left me a mess.
I had really been looking forward to seeing Birdsville, in fact, it was the main reason I’d done the trip in the first place, but I’d arrived so late in the day, I barely had time to set up camp before running across to the bakery where dinner was being served. I really struggled to keep my emotions in check during dinner and went to bed immediately after, having seen nothing of the town I’d come to see.
Day 6 (Friday 12 September 2014) – Birdsville to Mungerannie Hotel
During breakfast, John, my English compatriot, told me he was pulling out of the Challenge. This really upset me and left me feeling very shaky about the whole trip. By the time I got back to camp, I was a mess. Anthony, a gorgeous Hugh Jackman look-alike, who’d I’d met on the first day and had a few laughs with, was camped next to me. As I was packing up he started chatting to me. I have no idea what he said as the next thing I knew I was bubbling uncontrollably. The thought of spending the next 3 days on dirt tracks like this was overwhelming me.
Before leaving Birdsville, Dan wanted to get a photo of us all lined up outside the Birdsville Hotel, an outback icon. As we lined up our bikes and started taking pictures, Anthony came up to me and said “I’m just going to take it easy today if you want to ride with me.” I could have kissed him. He was an experienced dirt biker and was always the first one into camp each day. “I’ll pick out some lines and you can follow me,” he promised but as we left town and joined the Birdsville Track south, we got separated in the mass of other riders and I ended up on my own again. I was all over the place. I had no idea how to handle the ruts and was even stopping and manually paddling my way over ridges and troughs to try and find smoother ground. After about half an hour I became aware of someone ahead of me. It was Anthony – true to his word, he’d waited for me.
He watched me ride for a bit, then pulled me over and told me what to do. I was struggling with the trenches. “Whenever you come to a set of grooves, pick your line, keep your speed up and power through it,” he said. “If you develop a wobble, the momentum will carry you through.” Then he set off and I started to follow. We hit the grooves at 60 km/h and amazingly, he was right. It was actually much easier to ride the road at speed than it was to ride it slowly. But it took nerves of steel.
By the time we got to the refuel I was feeling much better. As I climbed off my bike, I went over to Anthony and gave him a big hug. “Thank you” I sighed. “No worries” he said, “you’ll be up at 70 or 80 by tomorrow”. “Hah, not likely,” I replied.
He stayed with me for the rest of the day – sometimes letting me ride ahead, sometimes letting me fall behind. It transformed my riding and we were amongst the first to arrive at the campsite at the Mungerannie Hotel. There were hot springs there so I jumped in, fully clothed. It was a great end to an amazing day and I went to bed that night thanking my lucky stars that Anthony had taken me under his wing and shown me how to ride the dirt properly.
Day 7 (Saturday 13 September 2014) – Mungerannie to Maree
After my lesson with Anthony yesterday, I blasted it down the rest of the Birdsville Track today, sometimes at 70 km/h. I felt much more in control and as we only had 208 km to cover there was plenty of time to stop and take some photos and take in the scenery.
At one point we came across an escarpment so detoured off the road to walk up – amazing views from the top of flat, endless plains below.
By 1.30 pm I’d made it to the end of the Birdsville Track at Maree. Gary, “Hand” Mike and some others were already at the sign, so I jumped off the bike and ran over to celebrate with them. I was in the pub half an hour later with Anthony congratulating me for having overtaken half of the field on my way out of Mungerannie. “See, I told you you’d be up at 70 today,” he said.
A great night in the pub with everyone in high spirits from having survived the Birdsville Track.
Day 8 (Sunday 14 September 2014) – Maree to Arkaroola
Despite the joys of completing the Birdsville Track yesterday, I was weepy again this morning. The hotel TV was full of reports about the forthcoming referendum of Scottish independence from the UK and, somehow, it made me sad. I was also worried about the next stretch of dirt we’d have to tackle.
So far we’d most been on flat, straight tracks, but today we were going to climb into the hills to a place called Arkaroola. Dan, during his morning briefing, advised us there would be lots of steep ascents and tight bends so to be careful. Linda, one of the Postie Princesses (Linda & Kylie) and I had been trying to work out how to avoid doing any more dirt the night before in the pub, but now accepted we’d have to do it. Before setting off I asked my riding instructor Anthony how to handle the bends. “Okay, as you approach a bend, pick your line, roll off your speed and then keep the speed steady through the bend,” he advised.
The first part from Maree to Copley was mostly on bitumen and was a joy to ride. At Copley the dirt started again. I’d stopped for a cup of tea there where I’d been talking to Canberra Mike and Alice Springs Dave, and when I left, Mike decided to ride with me. I was ahead and did exactly what Anthony had told me to – found my line, adjusted my speed and kept it steady through the bend. It worked a treat and we had a lovely trip up through the mountains to the outdoor centre at Arkaroola.
It had been another hot day and as there was a swimming pool, I dived in fully clothed. God, it was freezing.
Tonight Dan had arranged for us to stay in proper beds in the outdoor centre so I was sharing with Diana, a lovely lady from New South Wales whose husband had had to drop out of the Challenge the day it started due to a very bad cold.
Day 9 (Monday 15 September 2014) – Arkaroola to Orroroo
Today started with another warning from Dan about the treacherous condition of the roads ahead – “I’ve actually put ‘Beware dips, sand, gravel’ in your running sheets and I haven’t done that anywhere else, so be warned, this is not a good road surface so take it slowly.”
We back tracked the first 30 km then took the road to Blinman. This took us onto a high ridge and we were battered with strong cross-winds. At one point the motocross boys were standing by the side of the road waving at us. At first I thought they were just being friendly, then as I got closer, I realised they were signalling for us to slow down as there was a huge sand pit which I later found out had broken two of Christian’s spokes when he landed in it. I managed to roll off just enough power not to hit it too hard and bounced through to the other side still upright. This marked the start of the “dips, sand and gravel” Dan had been warning us about. The next 200 km were a nightmare of sand pits, steep ascents and carved up surfaces but surprisingly I found I wasn’t thinking about it anymore. Maybe I was just too tired to worry anymore, but I was no longer talking myself through all the tricky bits, I was just doing them. Even a couple of wobbles didn’t frighten me anymore as I knew the momentum would carry me through. Having said all this, it didn’t stop me from prostrating myself on the road and kissing the tarmac when we rejoined it at Blinman.
Now you’d think rejoining the tarmac would be a joyous occasion, but now the wind had got up and the last 100 km through the spectacular Flinders Ranges mountains into Orroroo was a painful ride into a strong headwind.
Thankfully the local people had prepared hot soup and a fantastic dinner for us so we all had nice warm bellies to fend off the cold winds whistling through the campground.
Day 10 (Tuesday 16 September 2014) – Orrorroo to Adelaide
At breakfast this morning Scott asked how old I was. “Fifty-one” I replied. I have never seen anyone look so stunned in all my life, his face literally froze in shock. “I thought you were more like 35 or 40,” one of the Mikes said. I turned to thank him for the compliment and when I turned back around, Scott had vanished. Any thoughts he may have been having about staying in touch were obviously quashed in that moment.
Dan told us all that we were on a deadline to reach Adelaide by 2 pm because the Rotary Club would be waiting to meet us then and take the bikes away. Hence it was another intense day’s riding. Our final ride was accompanied by another strong headwind, although thankfully not quite as bad as yesterday’s one. We refuelled at Clare which was more like a Formula 1 pit stop with Andy waving us in, us filling our tanks, and then jumping straight back on the bikes and continuing.
As I came into Gawler, “Hand” Mike passed me which I was quite pleased about as the running sheet directions were quite complicated and I feared I would easily lose my way. However, between Mike and some others catching up with us we were able to find our way onto the right road through the Adelaide Hills into Adelaide. We all rallied together in a shopping centre car park then rode into the city into formation.
We made it to the rendez-vous with the Rotary Club in time and then that was it. It was over. We’d covered 3,500 km in 10 days through some of the most beautiful and remote country on earth.
We were booked into a 5 star hotel that night and a celebration dinner was laid on. We all got certificates to mark our achievement then, slowly, we all disappeared off to our rooms. The Postie Bike Challange was over and I had survived.
Just a quick update before the Postie Bike Challenge gets underway properly tomorrow. Today was registration day and we all got allocated our bikes. There are 40 of us on the trip and my bike is Number 24, a somewhat impersonal name I thought, so I've christened her, Rosie, as she'll be my Desert Rose.
|Australia 2014 - (2) PCB Registration|
The first thing we had to do was create a cover for the milk crate on the back so that our stuff doesn't bounce out. I'd bought some tablecloth material with me and set about the task with a pair of nail scissors and some velcro - not a bad result me-thinks!
We've to be at the start point at 6.30 am tomorrow morning so it's going to be an early start and as I'm still loaded with the cold (thankfully the kidney infection has abated), I think the first few days may be quite hard - but, hey, thems the breaks.
Wednesday 3 September 2104
On Sunday night a woman in my room started coughing and I was a bit worried I’d catch whatever lurgie she had. By Monday morning I was coughing too. Nevertheless it was just a minor cough so I thought I’d got away with it.
That morning I caught the train out to Calbooture, where One Ten Motorcycles is located. Before I left Glasgow the organisers of the Postie Bike Challenge said, despite previous indications to the contrary, that it would not, in fact, be possible for me to buy the bike at the end of the Challenge. Fortunately, I’d come across a website by a guy called Nathan who’d ridden a Postie Bike from Sydney to London a few years ago and he mentioned he’d bought it from this company in Brisbane. I wanted to find out if it would be possible to buy one from One Ten and have them ship it to Adelaide. Joe, the owner, was very helpful but advised it would be cost prohibitive to do it. He might, he advised, be able to get me one if I was prepared to come back to Brisbane at the end of the Challenge and collect it. I’d just have to wait a couple of days while he made some enquiries.
It’s been really hot here the last few days, and because his garage was located in an industrial estate out of town, I had to wait at the bus stop in the very hot sun for half an hour. The jet lag had been hitting me pretty hard over the last few days, but now I was starting to feel I was finally getting over the worst of it. But, as I sat down on the train, I was overwhelmed with tiredness and almost passed out. By the time I got back to the hostel I was coughing quite badly and starting to feel feverish. “Uh oh”, I thought, “think I’m getting a cold”.
The next day I was feeling pretty bad so decided to have an easy day at the hostel to try and shake off whatever bug I’d picked up before the Challenge gets underway on Sunday – don’t want to be feeling dizzy on a motorcycle now do I?
I’d also been needing the loo a lot and when I woke up this morning I could feel my back, in the area of my kidneys, was really sore. Fearing my cold may have gone into my kidneys, I got the number of a local doctor from the girl on Reception at the hostel and was able to get an appointment at 9 am. As I sat in their waiting area, I suddenly started feeling very hot and light headed. “I think I’m going to faint” I thought to myself. Next thing I knew I was being shaken awake by the practice nurse and having my blood pressure taken. Apparently I’d passed out.
The doctor then diagnosed me with a kidney infection and a cold and prescribed some heavy duty antibiotics and some rehydration fluids to clear it all up. So it will be another day of bed rest for me.
Sunday 31 August 2014
Imagine waking up to this every morning! This is the view from the hostel’s rooftop kitchen.
Isn’t Brisbane a beautiful city?
|Australia 2014 - (1) Brisbane|
I spent my first couple of days in the city walking the streets and exploring. The Brisbane River cuts through the middle of the town and it’s hard to go far without being near it. I took the free City Hopper ferry which goes to just beyond Kangaroo Point, what appears to be a very affluent area with some beautiful old Queenslander style houses.
I got off here and walked all the way back to the city. If that didn’t tire me out for a good night’s sleep then nothing will.
According to my laptop's clock it's 5.40 am in the UK (I haven't changed the timezone yet) and it's 2.40 pm here in Brisbane so by my body clock's estimation that's the middle of the night. Nevertheless, I am forcing myself to stay awake and try to act as if I've adjusted when in reality my eyelids feel like they want to shut and never open again.
After 20 hours in flight, I touched down in Brisbane last night about 7.30 pm and was at the hostel by 8.30 pm. The best thing about arriving was walking through the airport doors and smelling the delicious, fragrant smell of the tropics. Even though it was only about 16 degrees celsius the smell of flowers was still in the air.
Today it's warm and sunny and I've had a fun day reacquainting myself with the city, although I did get a little disorientated and thought I was facing south when, in fact, I was facing north. The guy at reception set me right though and I made it into town to set up my mobile phone and my broadband dongle so now I'm back online and ready to head off to the supermarket for some food.
Part 2 will begin on 28 August 2014!
If you've enjoyed reading this blog, you might like to read the story behind the story in "Excess Baggage" the book of this trip. For full details, click here:
Friday 18th March 2011 – I arrived back in the UK yesterday morning after, I’m pleased to report, an uneventful flight back from Hong Kong. Despite my cold, I had a great week in Hong Kong with my brother and ended up staying in a very posh hotel room for a very cheap price so it seemed like a fitting end to my journey. After 7 months of life on the road and endless adventures its going to be strange establishing a “normal” life again, but I guess that’s what life’s all about – ch-ch-changes ...
So that’s it, as Jim Carey said on the Truman Show, “Good morning and, in case I don’t see you, good afternoon, good evening and good night”.
Friday 11th March 2011 – Here’s a funny story for you all. On the plane to Hong Kong during a bit of mild turbulence I started to feel a bit queezy. However, never having suffered from any form of travel sickness I discounted the possibility that I may be sick and decided to go to sleep instead. Sometime later, the girl in the seat next to me starts shaking me awake as, it turns out, I was vomiting in my sleep! On awakening I grabbed the sick bag and proceeded to empty my guts into it. I then managed to wake the man on the other side of me and make my way to the crew station where I announced, somewhat obviously, “I’ve just been sick”. The attractive young male steward then gave me another bag and suggested I might like to go to the toilet to clean up. “Clean up?” I thought. It was only then I realised I’d been sick all over my clothes. Anyway, I made it to the toilet and, as I wasn’t sure which end the next attack was going to flow through, I wheeked down my trousers and sat on the toilet. A few minutes later, said attractive young male steward knocks on the door. I could barely manage to say “Just a minute” so he then proceeded to unlock the door from the outside and pop his head round. Talk about an undignified sight – there I was with my head in a sick bag, my trousers round my knees and covered in puke! Nevertheless he handed me a cup of some sort of gastric relief compound and left me a pair of Quantas pyjamas to change into. When I eventually managed to peel off my clothes, I realised there was sick all over my underwear too. I made a pathetic attempt to wash it in the sink but given the taps are tiny and so is the plug hole, I soon realised this would be a fruitless exercise so I stuffed my clothes in the bag he’d given me and made my way out. They then took me up to Business Class and put me on oxygen for half an hour before sending me back to my seat for an uneventful remainder of the flight!
Thursday 10th March 2011 – So my time in Australia is finally over and I’m waiting at the airport for my flight to Hong Kong to be called. I woke up with a sore throat, runny nose and a light head today that has been gradually getting worse. I read somewhere that runny noses usually indicate tears that haven’t been expressed. I managed to fight back the tears for most of the day today, but saying goodbye to my friends, their little girl, their dogs and, of course, the bike, was more than I could take and I’ve been bubbling ever since.
My last few days in Melbourne were a mixture of freezing cold, cold and hot weather and were passed happily tying up loose ends and exploring the city. I put an advert on the web for the bike but as I’d had no takers by the time I left, I gave it to my friends.
People keep asking me what have been the best bits of the trip and I would definitely have to say looking after all the animals, especially the two whippets, riding to Mount Molloy in 8 days in the scalding heat and riding over the 30km of dirt track on the Omeo Highway. These are the bits that gave me the greatest sense of achievement. But really, the whole trip was fantastic and I was blessed with meeting some fabulous people, getting a reliable bike and seeing some of the most wonderful sights. I feel deeply grateful to everyone who had a hand in making this trip possible and incredibly lucky to have the good fortune to have been able to undertake it.
So will I go back and do the western side of Australia? Well, it occurred to me the other day as I was riding along on my friend’s push bike, that perhaps cycling an electric bicycle would be a good way to cross the Nullabor and go up the centre. So watch this space, I may be back ...
Sunday 27th February 2011 – The last 395km from Lakes Entrance back to Melbourne should have been a beautiful ride along the South Gipsland Highway but unfortunately the weather broke for my final ride and I got completely soaked! The final approach to Melbourne meant joining the freeway system and navigating my way through roadworks, heavy traffic and a number of tricky junctions. As with the approach to any major city, this was a nerve wracking experience, but I managed to find all the right roads at the right time and made it back to my friends’ house without incident.
So that’s it – the ride is over. In the last 7 months I’ve ridden from one side of Australia to the other and back again, covered 15,630km, avoided floods, cyclones and heat exposure, met some of the kindest, most helpful and genuinely nice people I could have hoped for, and had the time of my life.
I fly out of Melbourne to Hong Kong on 10 March, spend a week with my brother, then from Hong Kong to London on 17 March. Between now and then I’ll have to try and sell the bike and squeeze my expanded load of luggage back into the 2 bags I came here with.
I’ll write again before I leave, but for now, thank you to everyone who’s been reading this blog – I hope you’ve enjoyed reading it as much as I’ve enjoyed writing it.
Friday 25th February 2011 – I had the day off yesterday so wandered around Tallangatta and caught up on my laundry.
Today I wanted to get to Lakes Entrance on the south coast. According to my HEMA Motorcycle Atlas, there are 3 ways one can get there from Tallangatta: (1) take the Omeo Highway (described as “The road is generally tarred, but there are some quite rough gravel and rock sections which can be a test for the unprepared.”) – clearly not a good choice for me; (2) the Redbank Road which follows the right bank of the Kiewa River (described as “a simple back road ... so its a lot of fun”) – sounds right up my street; or (3) the Kiewa Valley Highway (described as “... a little on the dull side”) – err, perhaps not. So which one did I end up taking? Yes, you’ve guessed it, the Omeo Highway with 30km of gravel road to tackle!
Somehow I took the turning before the Redbank Road and ended up on a road that junctioned with the Omeo Highway. As I’d already gone about 45km at this point, I didn’t particularly want to go back so I decided it was time to face my fear of gravel and keep going forward. There are 2 gravel sections on this road, the first about 10km, the second, about 20km. The first was by far the worst – there were some really steep turns and badly rutted sections. I discovered the best way to tackle them seemed to be to keep your feet up and just keep moving. On the 3 occasions that I put my feet down I found it was very difficult to then get going again.
The second section was much longer. It took me 1.5 hours to cover the 20km involved. As long as the road is going straight its okay, but as soon as it starts climbing (or descending) and turning, the 2 wheels of the bike start going in different directions and you start skidding across the surface. The downhill bends are the scariest as you can’t use your power to control things like you can on the uphill bits. At one point a couple of guys on dirt bikes went whizzing past me in the opposite direction and it occurred to me that perhaps taking things faster than first gear might be easier, but given how hard it was to control the skids at slow speeds I wasn’t prepared to take the risk. Another guy with the full BMW adventure touring gear stopped as he passed me to check I was okay. As I said “yes” I could feel tears welling up but I knew blurred vision wasn’t going to help so I stuffed them back down and just carried on. As I got closer to the end of the track, the road flattened and smoothed out a bit so I was able to get it into second gear and 30 km/h!!!
I’ve never really considered myself a religious person, but one thing I have found throughout this trip is that, if there is a God, then I sure ask for His help a lot!!!
So I made it to the bottom of the dirt track in one piece only to discover I still had another 50km to ride to Omeo. And this wasn’t easy riding either. The road twists its way down through the mountains with huge sheer drops right off the side of the road. When I pulled into the petrol station in Omeo a guy came rushing up to me asking me if I’d seen “an old bloke on a BMW” as he’d lost him and thought he may have gone over the edge. In the cafe where I had lunch, the owner told me how 3 bikers had come to grief a few years ago. It was foggy and the first 2 went straight off the road over a cliff, the third saw the second’s tail light rise up and realised what was happening so put his bike down on its side and just managed to escape going over the edge.
From Omeo I joined the Great Alpine Road (the second best bike ride in Australia and the fifth best in the world, according to the cafe owner). About half way down and within about 5 minutes of each other I had 2 near misses with oncoming cars, the second of which had me hit the brakes so hard I almost kissed the tarmac so, realising my riding was becoming eratic, I pulled over to discover I was shaking like a leaf. A little rest, a few gulps of Powerade and several enquiries from passing drivers as to my state of health later, and I was back in the saddle for a much more sedate descent to Lakes Entrance.
So here I am in a lovely, very cheap, motel room where I think I’ll stay for a couple of nights before doing the final run back to Melbourne. I can’t believe my trip is almost over. Its been the best, most terrifying and most uplifting thing I’ve ever done. As another biker said to me the other day “you’ll miss not riding every day, won’t you?” and the answer is, of course, “yes”.
Anyway, its not quite over yet ...
Wednesday 23rd February 2011 – What a joyful day’s riding it was today. I left Tathra, rejoined the Princes Highway north for a few kms, then took the Snowy Mountains Highway west to Cooma then Jindabyne. It was the most gorgeous day – clear blue skies, radiant sunshine and stunning clarity. It was quite cool climbing up over Brown Mountain so I had to dig out my windproof jacket again. At Jindabyne, I turned onto the Alpine Way to Thredbo. This is where the Kosciuszko National Park starts and where the Australian ski resorts are located. Until this point the roads had been lovely wide open ones with sweeping bends and gentle gradients, but after Thredbo the road narrowed and became another tight alpine pass. At one point a pack of other riders, heading for the SuperBike Races at Phillip Island it turned out, passed me. However, round the next bend we had to stop for road works. One guy looked at my overloaded bike – before he could say anything I said “Don’t say a word.” So he turned away then obviously couldn’t resist and said “Moving house?”. It was quite funny though.
It took me most of the afternoon to get from one side to the other but it was beautiful country so I didn’t mind at all. So thanks to Mark (from Canberra) for suggesting it.
I then took the Murray Valley Highway to Tallangatta (which is back in Victoria) and booked into the local hotel which was doing a super cheap deal for motorcyclists. Its not the plushest place I’ve stayed but the 2 guys that run it are very friendly so I may even stay a day.
Tuesday 22nd February 2011 – Yesterday, Nick lent me a push bike and took me off to see the National War Memorial. It’s an impressive building that also houses a museum of wartime artefacts. He left me there to look around, then I cycled part way round Lake Burley Griffin before heading off to look at the Houses of Parliament. Alas, the bike proved to be perhaps the most uncomfortable I have ever ridden so I ended up pushing it most of the way round Canberra.
That evening I met up with a gentleman called Mark, one of my blog readers, who lives in Canberra. He was very interesting and recently spent a month riding a Royal Enfield round India. He also gave me lots of advice on where to go next – he suggested going through the Snowy Mountains instead of along the coast. After that I went back round to Nick’s to return the bike and have dinner. It was really nice to be able to relax in a real house again and to meet his kids.
Today I left Canberra and took the King’s Highway back to Bateman’s Bay before heading south along the Princes Highway to Moruya to meet up with Steve, a friend of my friends in Melbourne. It was only when I left him and got to a petrol station that I realised I’d lost my wallet. Panic stricken, I fled back to the pub where luckily they’d just found it. God, that’s twice I’ve lost it now and twice the good honest folk of Australia have handed it in.
I’m now in Tathra where I just managed to get the last room in the Inn – a family room with 7 beds in it! Another (very attractive) biker called Mick had just checked in when I arrived, so we tentatively arranged to have dinner together, however, by the time I’d had a shower, changed and sorted my stuff out, some other woman had nabbed him first. Honestly, it just never seems like I’m going to meet someone. Every guy I meet is either married, separated, fancies someone else, doesn’t fancy me or is completely unavailable. I think I’m just going to give up on looking for love with someone else and concentrate on finding it within myself – then maybe it will just come along without me having to try.
Sunday 20th February 2011 – I met up with Nick for dinner last night and again this morning. We took the bikes out to the NASA Deep Space Communications Complex. This is where they "listen" to space.
I had a fabulous time looking at all the exhibits and taking photos of the satellite dishes. Nick, however, seemed a little restless (having been there many times before) so I suggested he could leave if he wanted and I’d go back via the Mount Stromlo Observatory.
Until 2003 Mount Stromlo housed about 5 different telescopes but they were all destroyed in a massive bushfire and now only the shells of the buildings remain – the actual telescopes were damaged beyond repair. By this time, I was on a bit of a space mission and decided I would go and find the Planetarium. As I didn’t have a clue where this was, I went to the Tourist Information Centre first only to discover it too had been destroyed in a fire in 2008!
So my space mission had to be aborted for the day and I had to content myself with going to see “127 Hours” at the pictures instead – if you haven’t seen this film, its about a guy who falls down a ravine and gets his arm trapped between a boulder and the rock face. He eventually has to cut his arm off to get free. And, yes, its a true story!
Saturday 19th February 2011 – What a great time I had in Bateman’s Bay. It was lovely to see Rod and his family again and also to meet up with another old friend, Shane.
On Friday, Rod took me for a drive to Shallow Crossing. This involves taking a dirt track up into the forest for several miles before the road descends down to the River Clyde where a concrete weir has been built across the river. As there has been so much rain it was completely submerged and we had to drive quite slowly across it to avoid being swept away by the current.
We then went up to look at some old gold mines. You wouldn’t have known they were there unless you knew they were there. To the untrained eye they just looked like piles of earth but upon closer inspection one could see huge, seemingly bottomless, pits had been dug. I found it amazing to think that people had walked in all the equipment they needed and probably spent months at a time burrowing for the precious metal.
Again my heart strings were pulled leaving my old friends but as I’ve now booked my tickets home I need to keep moving. So I took the road to Canberra this morning. It wound up through the forest before coming out onto an open plain where I nearly got blown off the road on several occasions the wind was so strong. Just as I made my final turn into London Circuit in Canberra a car in the right hand turn lane decided to go straight on and nearly knocked me off my bike! Admittedly, I was in the left lane, but I was indicating to go right (as were a number of other cars) so I don’t quite know what that other driver was up to. Anyway, I’m safely ensconced back at the YHA now and hopefully will meet up with Nick tonight.
Wednesday 16th February 2011 – I left Sydney today. The thought of riding through the biggest city in Australia on a fully laden motorbike wasn’t one that I’d been particularly looking forward to, but I noticed that Route No 3 from Mona Vale Road would take me all the way through Sydney and out the other side at Woolongong where I could pick up the Pacific Highway to Bateman’s Bay. A girl in my room tried to convince me it would be shorter to take the road outside the hostel all the way into central Sydney where I could pick up a “distributor” road which would then take me over the Harbour Bridge then I’d be able to pick up “some other road” that would take me south, but upon looking at my map this seemed like a very complicated route and as Route No 3 didn’t involve a single turn I decided to take it instead even though it probably was a little bit longer.
So I set off into the vast metropolis of Australia’s premier city. I put myself in the middle lane on Mona Vale Road and pretty much stayed there all the way to the Pacific Highway. This route bypassed the centre of Sydney and took me through suburbs called Pymble, Ryde and Huntsville as well as passing the Olympic Stadium. It was very built up so it took me 2 hours to travel the 100km to Woolongong, but I made it without incident and didn’t have to stop once to consult the map so I was happy with that. I then phoned Rod to advise him of my progress only to be advised “well, its still another 3 hours from there”. God, I should be used to the distances in Australia by now, but they still always surprise me!
Anyway, I made it to Bateman’s Bay just before the rain came in so all in all, it was a pretty good trip.
Monday 14th February 2011 – I took the bus into central Sydney today. Its been about 6.5 years since I was last there but as I looked out across Circular Quay (which is rectangular, incidentally) it seemed as if it was only yesterday. Its funny how memories can distort time, or is it, how time distorts memories? As I travelled down the east coast I went through many places I’ve been through before yet didn’t recognise at all, then others that I had really clear memories of in my head but didn’t even see. Weird isn’t it?
Anyway, the bus went over the Harbour Bridge (the other night on the ride we went through the Harbour Tunnel) so now all I need to do is get a boat across and I’ll have crossed it by most means.
I then took a tour of the Sydney Opera House. Wow – its impressive from the outside, but inside it really takes your breath away. Unfortunately they wouldn’t let us take any pictures of the inside so I’ll just have to add those images to the reliable stack of memories in my head!
Saturday 12th February 2011 – God, I’m exhausted. I’ve just spent the last 3 days with Glenn & Emilia and the Northern Beaches Social Riders. This is the motorcycle club that Glenn runs, but it’s not just any old motorcycle club, they also raise money for charity, tonnes of it – so far they have raised AU$300,000. They do this through a combination of raffles, events and people paying to be pillion passengers on their rides. Thursday night was raffle night at the pub, then yesterday, they had a big ride through the streets of Sydney. The main instruction I was given was “Ride in staggered formation and keep as close as possible to the person in front.” Easier said than done I have to say! Now keeping in mind that most of the riding I’ve done over the last 6 months has been in pretty remote areas where you can go for miles before you see another vehicle, having to ride at a distance of approximately 10 feet from the bike in front, came as something of a challenge to me. Add to that the fact that I had absolutely no idea where we were going and was surrounded by enormous Harley Davidsons, and you have all the makings of some truly appalling riding from yours truly. Arriving at Harry’s Pie Shop (a local Sydney institution) at Woollamolloo, I was, once again, a jibbering wreck. After pouring out my terror to anyone who would listen it seemed to clear my nerves a bit and on the way back I got it together and did a much better job of keeping tight with the other riders and actually found I really enjoyed myself.
Glenn & Emilia, John and the rest of the NBSR are a fabulous group of people and my heartfelt thanks go out to everyone who chatted to me and made me feel so welcome. And special thanks go out to Glenn and Emilia who welcomed me into their home, barely knowing me, and showed me some of the local sights of the area. I am truly grateful.
I also got a chance to take a ride out to Palm Beach (aka “Summer Bay”), where “Home & Away” is filmed and saw a few of the key landmarks used in the series.
Now I’m back at the Northern Beaches YHA and feeling a mixture of deep gratitude and nervous exhaustion. Although it was lovely meeting everyone at the NSBR I do find meeting lots of new people quite nerve-racking so its nice to be able to spend a bit of time alone again.
I’ll stay here till Tuesday or Wednesday then make my way down to Bateman’s Bay where I’ll see my dear old friends Rod & Kim.
Wednesday 9th February 2011 – When I left Byron Bay it was a cold, drizzly morning. In fact, it got so cold at one point, I had to pull over and dig out my windproof jacket. However, by the time I arrived in Port Macquarie it had brightened up a bit and I was able to have a very pleasant stroll around the town.
The next day was also quite cool but again it brightened up later and by the time I got to Newcastle it was lovely. I decided to follow the Pacific Highway into the town instead of joining the Newcastle/Sydney Freeway, which took me all round the coastal beaches of Newcastle and beyond. It was really pretty.
Eventually I had to join the freeway which was very scarey but managed to make it to the YHA at the Northern Beaches by 3pm. I then made contact with Glenn and John from the Wilcannia servo and Glenn invited me round for dinner. So I had a lovely evening with Glenn, his wife Emilia, John and their other friends Mark & Stephan.
Monday 7th February 2011 – Byron Bay has been just what I needed, rest and relaxation in beautiful surroundings. The campsite is right on the beach and therefore benefits from cool sea breezes as well as warm sunshine. Its a bit of a hippy town – lots of massage clinics, art galleries and shops selling brightly coloured clothing. And more campervans than I’ve seen in my entire tour of Australia! Its a big surfing destination.
On Friday night a group of 20-something lads, then a group of 20-something girls, checked into the lodges next to mine. As you can imagine the 2 groups instantly bonded, the music was cranked up and the booze began to flow. God bless them, they very kindly asked if I would like to join them, so I had a cocktail, then politely left them to it. Just as well I’m pretty deaf as I managed to sleep through the ensuing din.
Saturday was spent cleaning the bike, wandering around and acquainting myself with the town and walking up and down the beach in my bikini in an attempt to get a tan. I mention this only because in a town full of 20 year old stick insects, one does become particularly conscious of one’s “fuller figure”. Anyway, I managed to get a bit of a tan and second degree burns on the areas that I missed with the sunscreen.
Sunday I went sea kayaking. This was brilliant fun and as they didn’t have enough canoes for everyone I got paired up with one of the guides, Shane, a very attractive man from New Zealand. Shane encouraged us all to stand up and see if we could see some dolphins from an “aerial perspective” which resulted in me nose-diving into the sea. Later, a shoal of fish were having a feeding frenzy on the surface but no dolphins were to be seen. Shane then leant over and said “Just between you and me, it probably means there’s sharks about.” Jesus Christ, thank god he didn’t tell me that before I had my little dip! On the way back in, a lady got a bit panicky so Shane offered to take her back in. This, of course, meant I had to get onto her kayak – this time I managed not to plunge into the water but I ended up on my back with my legs split between the 2 drifting canoes before I finally managed to pull myself aboard – not the most elegant manoeuvre!
Today it was wet and windy so I did a pile of laundry in the morning then took a walk up to the lighthouse. Oh, it was so nice to feel the cool wind and rain on my skin after so many days of sweltering heat.
Tomorrow I shall leave this wonderful place and continue heading south to Sydney. Probably stop at Port MacQuarrie.
Friday 4th February 2011 – The ride from Gin Gin to Noosa Heads found me in a rotten mood. I was hot and tired and fed up with riding alone and not having anyone to talk to. And more road works – at one point I got so hot waiting in a long queue of traffic that I pulled the bike over to the side, got my bottle of water and started pouring it all over myself. It was only when I’d finished that I realised the truck driver behind me was watching the whole affair!
Anyway, I found the YHA and booked in. Another small, stuffy room with no air conditioning, I was not a happy bunny. However, I managed to make contact with my brother’s friend, Andrew, and the next day he came and took me off to the comfort of their gorgeous country home, complete with swimming pool, fans and air conditioning. I had a really lovely visit with Andrew and his family, so, when I left this morning I found myself in floods of tears again. It was just so nice to be with people I knew again and to be looked after.
I left about 9.30 this morning which ensured I missed the rush hour traffic into Brisbane but meant I ended up doing most of the 300km to Byron’s Bay in the sweltering heat of the day. It seems to take me longer to cover distances when its really hot and it was 4pm before I got to the Bay. Unfortunately, the YHA was booked out, so I found a campsite which had small “lodges” available and booked into one of these for 3 nights. After all the travelling of the last few days, I feel exhausted and need to recharge.
The good news is, I’ve managed to make contact with Glenn & John, the two guys who rescued me in the middle of the desert on my way to Mount Molloy, so I’ll be stopping off in Sydney to see them later in the week.
Tuesday 1st February 2011 - Having fled south for the last 3 days like a Wild West outlaw, it would appear I’ve managed to outrun the most imminent danger. I’ve just seen a TV report saying the cyclone is currently heading towards Cairns.
Thank goodness, I’m not sure I could keep this pace up much longer (I’ve been doing 400-500km a day). I saw a newspaper report this morning saying Yasi was heading for Rockhampton which almost made me weep as I couldn’t have taken riding all this way and still getting hit with it.
Anyway, I’ve made it to Gin Gin today. I left Carmila at 6.15am and whacked off the first 128km to Marlborough by 7.30. One serving of bacon & eggs and 2 cups of tea later, I was back on the road and was in Rocky by 9.30. Then it all started going pear shaped. You’ll probably be aware that Rockhampton was one of the towns badly hit by the floods? Well, although there wasn’t a lot of evidence of it in the town itself (either they've done a spectacular clean up job or my route just didn't go past the worst areas), there were countless road works where they were piecing the road back together again between there and Gin Gin so progress became quite slow.
Most of the time I’m quite happy riding along by myself, but today, I could really have done with some company. Mile after mile of endless bush and only my thoughts to keep me company. So you may wonder what I think about while I’m beetling along. Well, for a long time I had the constant criticism of some anonymous person in my head justifying every move I made, but now, I seem a lot more at peace. The main thing I seem to do is read road signs, you know, “Road Work Ahead, Reduce Speed”, “DIP”, “What is the highest mountain in Queensland?” – yes, that was one of the signs today. Because its such a boring stretch of road the authorities suggest you should play “trivia games” to stop yourself from nodding off and this is one they give you to get you started. All very well if you’ve got someone to play it with! (The answer, by the way, is Mount Bartley Frere, or something like that.)
So off to Noosa tomorrow where I’ll hopefully get to stop for a few days.
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Next HU Events
- USA California: Sep 25-28
- Aus Queensland: Oct 3-6
- Aus Perth: Oct 10-12
- Germany Autumn: Oct 23-26
- Aus VIC: Oct 24-26
- NEW! Aus NSW: Oct 31-Nov 2
- NEW! South Africa: Nov 13-16
- NEW! USA Virginia: Apr 9-12, 2015
- NEW! HUMM Morocco: May 13-16, 2015
Take 40% off Road Heroes Part 1 until October 31 only!
"Inspiring and hilarious!"
"I loved watching this DVD!"
"Lots of amazing stories and even more amazing photographs, it's great fun and very inspirational."
Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'HEROES' on your order when you checkout.
What others say about HU...
"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA
"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia
Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!
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Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!
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Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.
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