May 13, 2003 GMT
From Agra to Varanasi and Nepal

From Agra to Varanasi I had the most most shit days driving so far. Started again early in the morning and it took me quite a while to get out of Agra but then on the highway shit loads of traffic. Millions of trucks all driving in the middle of the road so you can`t overtake so that means swallowing lot`s of exaustgases. And a lot of diesel on the street what makes thing`s very slippery, more that once I blocked the front wheel and nearly lost it. Also I saw the first dead person beside the road, looked like he was run over by a truck, smashed face, already stiff but realy noone cared. Unbeliveble. In Kanpur that night I couldn`t find a hotel only with the help of a nice lokal and 2 hours later we found a place to stay for me.
The next day same shit different road, lots of potholes this time and a couple of times I thought now the bike if breaking in 2 pieces. Then another accidend truck against autorickshaw, autorickshaw smashed and dead people all over the street.
In Varanasi then I took on of the early morning boat trips on the Ganga, great sunrise and everything happens in a few meter distance, burningplaces, a couple of meters further people washing there cloth and a bit further they having a bath. Very impressive athmosphere.
From there it was another 2 shit days on the road to Sonauli and the Nepalborder.
It took only 2 hours to cross and 20 km behind the border live was good again, to be exact it was paradise.
Not traffic, people are smiling, clear air and the mountains. I thought I`am back in New Zealand.
In the mountains half way to Pokhara I met Andy from Aussi on a bicycle and Vattern gues what he had a Mapsource CD ( what in the end wasn`t readeble at any computer we tryed ).
Pokhara is a great place around a lake, very relaxed and good food again, found a nice hotel ( Stay Well Guesthouse ) with a view on the mountains.
Met again with Andy who had his birthday and we had a good night out, also I meet other overlandtravelers, Dalbir on a Dominator and Rik on a BMW aswell as Seamus on his Tenere. Will probably catch up for the way trough Pakistan.
Then that afternoon the first real rain or thunderstorm since 2 month, streets under water and hailstones the sice of marbels. Exelent if you sit in a dry place with a cup of coffee !!
Vattern thank`s again I downloaded then the programm and it works, attached to this e-mail will be the data of India.
Plan to stay a few more days and maybe do some trekking !

Von Agra nach Varanasi waren es die beschissensten Fahrtage die ich bisher hatte. Startete frueh von Agra, brauchte einige Zeit um aus der Stadt rauszufinden nur um dann auf dem Highway unglaublich viel Verkehr zu haben. Millionen von Trucks die alle in der mitte der Strasse fahren was ueberholen fast unmoeglich macht, das also heist viele Abgase schlucken. Dann auch noch viel Diesel auf der Strasse welches diese recht rutschig macht, mehr als einmal rutschte das Vorderrad beim bremsen und ich konnte das Moppet nur mit Muehe auffangen. Ich sah auch den ersten Toten neben der Strasse liegen, wohl von einem LKW ueberfahren, zerschmettertes Gesicht, schon in Leichenstarre aber keiner der Anwohner schien das zu stoeren. Unglaublich.
In Kanpur dann konnte ich kein Hotel finden, grosse Stadt aber alles voll. Nur mit Hilfe eines netten Lokal und 2 Std. spaeter fanden wir endlich einen Platz wo ich uebernachten konnte.
Dann naechster Tage gleicher Mist, andere Strasse mit nun massig vielen Loechern und ich meine Krater. Mehrmals hatte ich Angst das das Moppet in zwei Teile bricht. Dann ein weiter Unfall, Autorickshaw gegen Truck, nicht mehr viel zu erkennen von der Rickshaw und Leichen auf der Strasse verteilet.
In Varanasi machte ich dann eine der Morgenbootfahrten auf dem Ganges, super Sonnenaufgang und alles an Fluss passiert in ein paar Meter abstaenden. Verbrennungsplaetze fuer Leichname, einige Meter weiter waschen Leute ihre Waesche und wieder etwas weiter baden Menschen wie man es dort jeden morgen macht. Eine sehr beeindruckende Athmosphere.
Von dort waren es 2 weitere bescheidene Tage auf der Strasse nach Sonauli an der Nepalgrenze.
Es dauerte nur 2 Std. um nach Nepal rein zu kommen und dann 20 km nach der Grenze war das Leben wieder gut, eigendlich war es ein Paradies.
Kein Verkehr, Menschen die lachen, klare Luft und die Berge. Ich fuehlte mich wieder wie in Neuseeland.
In den Bergen, halbe Strecke nach Pokhara, traf ich Andy aus Australien auf einem Fahrrad und Vattern du klaubst es nicht er hat ne Mapsource CD daber ( welche wie sich rausstellen sollte nicht funktioniert ).
Pokhara ist eine super Stadt an einen See gelegen, sehr ruhig und wieder gutes Essen.
Traf Andy wieder und wir feierten seinen Geburtstag an diesem Abend recht feucht / froehlich. Auch traf ich einige andere Overland reisende auf Moppets, Dalbir auf seiner Dominator und Rik auf ner BMW und Seamus mit seiner Tenere.
An diesem Nachmittag gabs auch den ersten Regen fuer mich in 2 Monaten oder mehr Sturm, Strassen unter Wasser und Hagelkoerner gross wie Murmeln. Super anzuschauen wenn man in einem trockenen Cafe mit einer Tasse Kaffee sitzt.
Vattern vielen Dank noch mal, habe das Programm runtergeladen und es funktioniert !!! Werde Daten senden !
Werde wohl noch ein paar Tage bleiben und vielleicht etwas wandern.

Posted by Andre Lomme at May 13, 2003 09:00 AM GMT

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