BEAUTIFUL BAIKAL

Riding solo on OK roads I was able to make good time.
As dusk approaches - automatically start scanning for secure, convenient camp site.

It looks good as I sneak behind a hedge just feet from the busy road

'stealth camping'

After nightfall, just as I was drifting off, this road was passage for three combine harvesters returing from work. As innocuous as this sounds, I was terrified as these as yet to be identified machines roared toward my campsite at about three miles an hour, raking my presence with their headlights. First night alone jitters!

For added security, I took to using the bike as a tent peg

At a roadside cafe, this beauty was my waitress. I found the more off-hand the waitress, the more she liked you, so when I received the cold shoulder, I turned to the Nikolai school of Charm....

and had her eating out of my hand!!!

Having bypassed Ulan Ude, I headed for Lake Baikal.
Simply beautiful!

These wonderful fish sellers...

Offered the bounty of Baikal

Gassing up in Shelekov, close to Irkustk, I ran into Lernya on a fancy pants sport bike. He invited me to join him and his gang at the 'Tourmann' bike HQ.

Where my bike took pride of place.

With relief, not a vodka bottle in sight, but plenty of beer

and pizza

Good times

After 99 bottles of beer, my convoy escorted me...

to Boris' apartment, complete with a 1945 BMW. Boris left me to spend the night with his girlfriend! (No, he left the apartment to spend the night at his girlfriend's apartment...he wasn't THAT hospitable!)

and a russian kitty!

God bless these Russian bikers!

Next morning, after such hospitality, I felt obliged to join the 'last ride before winter' bike rally. Here we are just before heading to out to the bike rally.

Gassing up, it starts to rain.

and gets increasing colder and more miserable in the busy Irkustk traffic. Here we stopped because one of the guys had an accident with a taxi.

Outside a big sports stadium about 300 bikes gathered for the rally. Including the Baikal Bikers

This is the main dude of the Baikal Bikers in the center. Max off to the left was kind enough to be my guide out of the city.

In the pouring rain, following Max through the streets of Irkustk was a harrowing ride. I joined the 300 strong bike rally for about 30 miles. We had a police escort and a very irate column of Russian drivers behind us. At about 4.00 p.m I finally started my ride, by now very wet, cold and with little prospects for a good campsite. Here I stop at a cafe to warm up...yes, that's steam from my very unwaterproof, waterproof jacket!

With the wet weather, many potential campsites were off limits because of the muddy and dangerous side roads. My lights were seriously compromised by the accident in Skovorodino, as was my helmet visor, but unable to find a decent campsite, I was forced to ride in the darkness. Cold, wet and hungry I pulled into a cafe to warm up, have dinner and assess my options. That's when Yuri and his two chicas forced their hospitality on me.

Fumbling with my phrase book, 'Mafia' was the reply when I asked him his profession

But when Yuri realized the girls were more interested in me than him...

he was happy to see me on my way...as was I. He had a very unpleasant vibe about him especially after the youthful hospitality of the Tourmann bike gang. I headed off into the dark, damp night.

But, as usual, a suitable campsite availed itself within a few kilometers. I had by this time become an expert in making camp by starlight. Good night's sleep and beautiful sunshine next morning. Very cold though.

It was this morning that I'd realized I'd left both my long sleeve medium weight and zip up winter weight merino wool thermals back at Boris' apartment in Shelekov...250 kms behind me...bummer!!

Pressing on, I picked up victuals at this colorful grocery store.

Came across Marianne and Jchenna riding across Russia using pedal power

bad case of 'helmet head!'

Long stretches of very bad roads slowed my progress. I wanted to make Krasnoyarsk before dark. I had called ahead to the Hotel Gostiny Dvor. (First one listed in budget section of Lonely Planet). Having parked my bike around the back I went to check in where I met another Russian Souka (arsehole). Despite a letter from my Russian Lawyer (Nikolai!) explaining my extended visa situation, and calling Nikolai on my mobile to further explain, this twit wouldn't let me check in because my visa had expired...I was most displeased, but quick as a flash, whipped out my camera and she tried to duck behind the glass. hehehehe

Please, if you're visiting Krasnoyarsk, don't stay at the Hotel Gostiny Dvor.

I called the Hotel Turist and checked in no prob! Nice to dry everything out after my soaking a couple of days before.

Krasnoyarsk I'm sure is a interesting city, but after my shouting match with the souka at the other hotel, I was thankful to call it a night!

Next morning, after a great complimentary breakfast I was ready to head to Novisibirsk. If I had known what this day would bring, I would have stayed another night in Krasnoyarsk.

CHITA

After five days on the road, a little R&R at the Hotel Turist was just what the doctor ordered.

Next morning, Nikolai and I went off to explore Chita.

The city has a strong military presence

and history

pretty churches...

Aswell as signs of (ahem) Russian businessmen.

Still don't know who this dude is.

Even with Nikolai, we couldn't find an insurance company. We call our friendly
Chita biker Micha who shows up quick as a flash....

and takes me to my Insurance company where this nice lady signed me up for another 10 days for the princely sum of 200 roubles ($8.00)

Nikolai wasted no time talking to this one about his future insurance needs!

While Nikolai explored further, I needed to address the missing engine mounting bolt. Micha had arranged for his friend and mechanic, Micha (same name) to pick me up from the hotel. He took me back to his workshop. Wife and kids came by for a photo opp.

Micha informed me his 1984 CB 750 had been from Chita to Vladivostok...TWICE!!
I knew I was in good hands.

He roots through a big box of bolts until he finds one that's appropriate. The new bolt requires the frame to be retapped to receive it. Here he is tapping out the existing hole.

But what does he discover?

not one, but THREE major cracks to the BIKE MAINFRAME!!!

First, he has to get the new bolt on...nothing like a 3lb lump hammer to get the frame to line up....yikes!!!

This is bolt installed by Triumph.

This is the bolt installed by Micha!

It may not be pretty, but, with thousands of miles ahead, it's solid as a rock.
But what about the cracks to the frame?

Enter the Doctor!!!

After stripping the bike down and preparing the cracks in the metal

Micha goes to work with the oxy-acetylene!!!

Damn fine job!!!

finishing touches with a can of silver paint

Back in business!!!

Micha was a true mechanic. He reversed the front fender so that my mudguard extender became the solid leading FRONT edge of my fender...genius!!! Brilliant Russian ingenuity using the materials to hand to provide a solution. In America, a new fender would have been ordered, would have taken four weeks to arrive and would have cost me $17,495.00 plus tax!

When a torx driver broke, Micha took a nasty gouge to his finger. Didn't swear, didn't shout, just wrapped it up and continued to work!!!

The work had taken all afternoon...about six hours. Bear in mind he met me at my hotel, led me to his workshop and put aside all other work to fix my bike. Ahh the brotherhood of the bike!!!!
Micha charged me 1500 roubles for his troubles (about $60.00). I didn't have the roubles on me, but was very glad to give him a crispy Franklin for his troubles. This is his bike next to my undressed Tiger.

Last night in Chita, Nikolai with a haircut. I had spent the last 3 weeks with Nikolai and he had made the trip far more interesting and fun. I was sorry to part ways, but was also ready to go on solo. Thanks Nikolai for all the good times!!!

Sadly, the very next night, Nikolai was set upon by three thugs who beat him up really badly...they re-arranged his face, literally. He was in the hospital for a few days, then went back to Kharbarovsk to heal. He is now somewhere in Korea living free!!! God bless and good luck Nikolai!!!

I was lucky enough to meet the beautiful Olga on my last day in Chita. We are still e-mailing each other....I'll keep you posted!

And thanks to Micha who offered non stop help throughout my stay in Chita. He led me out of the city and directed me to the road to Ulan Ude. Thanks a lot Micha...true biker spirit!!!

Here I go again, on my own...