April 15, 2009 GMT
32. Costa Pacìfica

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It’s a long ride down hill from the border to Arica. The road, just stupendous.
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Amigo: ahora puedes leer la historia completa en mi libro "La Suramérica que recorrí". Ve a www.palibrio.com. Las fotos, míralas aquí.
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Es una bajada larga por una carretera estupenda desde la frontera hasta Arica.
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The Morro (the height) is Arica distinctive, ………………
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El Morro es el distintivo de Arica, ………………..
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……………… but I had a special personal interest in the olympic pool. My wife Marta was there in 1972 representing Colombia in the XXI South-American Swimming Championship. Being so long time without her company and support, I thought I would get some mind energy from the site, feeling she was there.
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………………….. pero yo tenía un especial interés en la piscina olímpica. Mi esposa Marta estuvo compitiendo allí en representación de Colombia en el XXI Campeonato Suramericano de Natación. Habiendo estado largo tiempo sin su compañía y soporte, pensé que podría recuperar algo de energía mental pensando y sintiendo que ella estuvo allí.
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Getting permission was easy, so I chose going with Suzi up a ramp to the stands where I found a site to sleep.
I swam 1.000 m next day, they helped me to complete the energy I needed in body and spirit to ride almost 3.000 km Peruvian desert I had ahead.
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Obtener el permiso fué fácil, entonces escogí subir con Suzi por una rampa hasta las tribunas donde encontré un sitio para dormir. Los 1.000 m que nadé al día siguiente me ayudaron a complementar la energía que necesitaba en cuerpo y espíritu para rodar por los casi 3.000 km de desierto peruano que venían adelante.
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Peruvian border formalities were the longest I had to deal with. I finally left Tacna at 11 am to ride long straights.
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El papeleo en la frontera de Perú fue el mas largo de todo el viaje. Finalmente salí de Tacna a las 11 am a rodar por largas rectas.
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Green color is only seen along the few rivers that get to transport water from the Andes; flat oasis with plenty of food are on them.
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Sólo se ve verde a lo largo de los pocos ríos que logran transportar agua desde los Andes; oasis planos con mucha comida hay en ellos.
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The desert already has owners. People have delimited lots, most of them with legal and registered titles. In some areas owners have built primitive and simple shelters to demonstrate possession of the land. When government build up water and irrigation systems, these people would come to make the country more productive.
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El desierto ya tiene dueños. La gente ha delimitado lotes, la mayoría con títulos legales y registrados. En algunas áreas los dueños han construído pequeños cambuches para demostrar la posesión de la tierra. Cuando el gobierno construya sistemas de agua e irrigación esa gente hará más productivo el país.
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In some places as in Virú, government made reservoirs and aqueducts, and sold the improved land. Companies adapted the land and now there are huge extensions producing all kind of fruits. I rode along of this one, Vallesol, for more than 15 km. Over there I understood why the best mandarines I have eaten in Canada had the sticker “ Product from Perú “.
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En algunos lugares como Virú, el gobierno construyó represas y acueductos y vendió la tierra mejorada. Muchas compañías han adecuado la tierra y ahora hay inmensas extensiones produciendo toda clase de frutas. Rodé a lo largo de ésta, Vallesol, por mas de 15 km. Allí entendí porqué las mejores mandarinas que me he comido en Canada estaban marcadas “Product from Perú”.
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But other parts of the desert could hardly be transformed: sand is carried permanently by winds, covering the road here, building dunes up over there.
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Pero otras partes del desierto difícilmente podrían ser transformadas: arena es acarreada permanentemente por los vientos, cubriendo el camino aquí, formando dunas allá.
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Pacific coast has splendid places; the journey is just a nirvana I would like to ride very slowly. It will be a target in my next trip.
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La costa pacífica tiene espléndidos lugares; la jornada es una fantasía que me hubiera gustado pasar muy lentamente. Será un objetivo para el próximo viaje.
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Nazca. The enigmatic lines welcome you from all directions of the desert.
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Nasca. Las enigmáticas líneas dan la bienvenida desde todas partes del desierto.
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Most of them were drawn by putting apart the dark stones to reveal the lighter ground.
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La mayoría fueron dibujadas separando las piedras que son oscuras para revelar el terreno que es mas claro.

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From a tower you can see The Hands and The Tree (carob tree).
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Desde una torre puede verse Las Manos y El Arbol (un algarrobo)
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After a long ride from Lima to Piura (1.025 km), I met Victor Lema, wife Mimi and daughter Angela. Victor had invited me to visit them, so I was so happy being with them at home for two days. What a luxury welcoming I didn’t expect at the end of my trip.
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Después de una larga jornada desde Lima hasta Piura (1.025 km), me encontré con Víctor Lema, su esposa Mimi y su hija Angela. Victor me había invitado a visitarlos por lo que estuve feliz con ellos en su casa por dos días. Qué lujoso recibimiento al final de mi viaje, no me lo esperaba.
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Not happy having me at home, Víctor invited aunt Margot and cousin Julio with spouses to lunch with us.
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No contento conmigo en casa, Víctor invitó a su tía Margot y a su primo Julio con sus consortes a almorzar con nosotros.
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And finally I got Ecuadorian border. My expectations since Bolivia issue were almost true, this time not with Suzi but with myself. Let me explain it. Ecuador is currently asking to Colombian citizens a Police Certificate I had not because it was not asked when I entered Ecuador leaving Colombia five months ago. Getting this certificate at any consulate would take about four months. At the border I opt for contracting a helper to get my visa. He came back saying I had a 200 dollars fine because my previous exit I made by a remote port in the jungle from Ecuador to Peru was not registered into the system. For a small bribe the problems were forgotten. Now Suzi: no problem!, The principal custom officer (biker) ordered my temporary permit indeed it was after hours, 6:30 pm. I left Huaquillas SO happy and rode that night up to Machala where I chose a motel. That night I was feeling that somebody was missing on that rounded bed, under and in front of mirrors, to celebrate.
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Y finalmente llegué a la frontera con Ecuador. Mis expectativas desde el asunto en Bolivia resultaron casi ciertas, esta vez no con Suzi pero sí conmigo. Déjenme explicar. Ecuador está actualmente exigiendo a los ciudadanos colombianos un Certificado de Policía que yo no tenía porque no era solicitado cuando entré a Ecuador saliendo de Colombia cinco meses atrás. Obtener el certificado demoraba cuatro meses en cualquier consulado. Entonces contraté un gestor que me consiguiera la visa quien volvió con el cuento de que además de la falta del certificado, yo tenía 200 dólares de multa porque mi salida previa que hice por la selva de Ecuador hacia Perú no estaba registrada en el sistema. Con una “ contribución “ los problemas fueron olvidados. Ahora Suzi, ah…… sin problema. El oficial principal de aduana, que era motociclista, ordenó mi permiso temporal cuando supuestamente ya la aduana había cerrado ese día, 6:30 pm. Salí de Huaquillas MUY contento y rodé hasta Machala donde me entré a un motel. Esa noche yo sentía que alguien hacía falta en esa cama redonda, delante y debajo de espejos para celebrar.
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Two days latter I entered Cali and met my son Ricardo, Margarita y Salomé. The trip was over, I was in perfect conditions and happy to be back home.
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Dos días después entrè a Cali a reunirme con mi hijo Ricardo, Margarita y Salomé. El viaje había finalizado, yo me encontraba en perfectas condiciones y feliz de regresar.
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During the last week I was in five countries and rode just 5.000 km:

Thursday 2. Potosí (Bolivia) to Arica (Chile), 847 km.
Friday 3, Arica to Atico (Peru), 650 km.
Saturday 4, Atico to Lima, 750 km.
Sunday 5, Lima to Piura, 1025 km.
Monday 6, Piura
Tuesday 7, Piura to Machala (Ecuador), 400 km.
Wednesday 8, Machala to Ibarra, 730 km.
Thursday 9, Ibarra to Cali (Colombia), 600 km.

Total trip distance : 38.000 km
Total trip time : 164 days.
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Durante la semana pasada estuve en cinco países y rodé exactos 5.000 km.

Jueves 2. de Potosí (Bolivia) a Arica (Chile), 847 km.
Viernes3, de Arica a Atico (Peru), 650 km.
Sabado 4, de Atico a Lima, 750 km.
Domingo 5, de Lima a Piura, 1025 km.
Lunes 6, en Piura
Martes 7, de Piura a Machala (Ecuador), 400 km.
Miércoles 8, de Machala a Ibarra, 730 km.
Jueves 9, de Ibarra a Cali (Colombia), 600 km.

Distancia total recorrida : 38.000 km
Tiempo : 164 días.
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Finally, I want to dedicate this trip to two relatives, both bikers, that are not longer with us, whom I thought almost every day while riding this continent:
-- My uncle FERNANDO LEMA who inspired and first-hand showed us the passion for motorcycles; and
-- My cousin TIBERIO -Tiby- JARAMILLO who always was a wonderful partner and advisor.
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Finalmente, quiero dedicar este viaje a dos familiares motociclistas que no estàn ya con nosotros y en quienes pensè casi cada dìa durante el viaje por este continente:
-- Mi tìo FERNANDO LEMA quien nos inspirò y nos mostrò de primera mano la pasiòn por las motocicletas; y
-- Mi primo TIBERIO JARAMILLO quien fuè siempre un magnìfico compañero y consejero.

Posted by Santiago Lema at April 15, 2009 07:47 PM GMT
 


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