April 15, 2009 GMT
30. Chiquitano

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Entering Bolivia – March 22/09 - by Puerto Suarez I was told by customs that Suzi’s previous exit from the country we made on December 25/08 wasn’t still registered on the system. It appeared as Suzi still was into the country surpassing the permit-time and putting me out of the rules. The functionary finally gave her entrance, with my compromise of having to go to a custom main office to fix the problem. I found this is a problem that would happen when you exit the country by a remote border as Laguna Verde where they haven’t cyber-system. I went to customs main office in Santa Cruz, where I was told they couldn’t close my exit –only at borders-, that it was my fault for leaving the country by a port with no customs (!¿!?) and that surely I would receive a fine at the next exiting border. I remember Laguna Verde migration port had a locked vehicular barrier. The strange issue is the migration officer at Laguna Verde received my Suzi’s temporary permit saying nothing and allowing us to leave with no problem. I left that office very bored and asking myself if I would have the same problem when entering second time Ecuador as I had left by La Balsa, a remote no-system port in the jungle. The question will remain in my mind until Ecuador.

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Amigo: ahora puedes leer la historia completa en mi libro "La Suramérica que recorrí". Ve a www.palibrio.com. Las fotos, míralas aquí.
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Cuando entré a Bolivia – Marzo 22/09 – por Puerto Suárez fui informado en la aduana de que la previa salida del país de Suzi, en Diciembre 25/08, no había sido aún registrada en el sistema. Aparecía como si Suzi estuviera todavía en el país sobrepasando el tiempo de permanencia otorgado y poniéndome a mí contraviniendo las reglas. El funcionario finalmente me dio la entrada, con mi compromiso de ir a una gerencia de aduana a arreglar el problema, lo que hice en Santa Cruz donde me informaron que allí no podían registrar mi entrada, de que era mi culpa el haber salido por un puerto sin aduana (¡!??) y de que seguramente me aplicarían una multa. Yo recuerdo que en Laguna Verde, por donde salí, había barrera vehicular con candado. Lo extraño es que el funcionario de inmigración me recibió conforme el permiso temporal de la moto y me permitió salir sin problemas. Aprendí que este es un problema que puede suceder cuando se sale del país por un puerto remoto sin conexión al sistema. Salí muy aburrido de esa oficina preguntándome si lo mismo no iba a suceder en Ecuador pues había salido por La Balsa, puerto remoto y sin sistema en la selva cuyo centro era Chiclayo, a donde el funcionario de La Balsa debería enviar el documento en papel para ser registrado allí en el sistema. La pregunta permanecerá en mi mente hasta llegar a Ecuador.
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The 300 km plus road from Puerto Suarez to San Jose de Chiquitos is almost perfect concrete, built by Italian Astaldi. It is the best road I have traveled in my life; not even in USA or Canada, surface and joints are as smooth as they are in this road, you just don’t feel them. A wonder in the middle of the jungle with traffic of one truck every 15 minutes.
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La vía de más de 300 km desde Puerto Suárez a San José de Chiquitos es concreto casi perfecto, construída por la italiana Astaldi. Es la mejor carretera que he recorrido en mi vida, ni siquiera en USA o Canadá la superficie y las juntas son tan suaves como aquí, usted simplemente no las siente. Una maravilla en medio de la selva con tráfico de un camión cada 15 minutos.
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However the exits to small towns as Roboré are other story, as it is gassing up because the operator’s nap-time.
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Sin embargo las salidas a los pueblos pequeños como Roboré son otra historia, como es el tanquear allí debido a la siesta del operario de la bomba.
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Chochís has a beautiful temple, where Christian icons are mixed with native ones. Carving is a common activity in this area.
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Chochís tiene un bello templo donde imágenes cristianas están mezcladas con nativas. La talla en madera es una actividad común en esta área.
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The main purpose for riding this country was to visit the ancient Jesuit missions, jewels of the XVIII century. The SAN JOSÉ group ( chapel, bell-tower, and mortuary ) is the only one in the area that is Baroque stone-made, currently under repairing.
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El propósito principal para rodar por esta parte de Bolivia era visitar las antiguas misiones jesuitas, joyas del siglo XVIII. El grupo de SAN JOSÉ ( capilla, campanario y bóveda ) es el único en el área que es barroco en piedra, actualmente en reparación.
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SAN RAFAEL. All these towns were named after Saints Archangels. Remember you fellow reader that San Rafael is the travelers’ patron and protector.
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SAN RAFAEL. Todos estos pueblos fueron nombrados en honor de los santos arcángeles. Recuerde usted estimado lector que San Rafael es el patrono protector de los viajeros.
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SAN MIGUEL.
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Presently posts are not the size nor as straight lined as church columns.
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Los postes actuales no son del tamaño ni la rectitud de las columnas de las iglesias.
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SAN IGNACIO. Beautiful carving all around.
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SAN IGNACIO. Bellas tallas por todas partes.
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Around the plaza walkways are covered and indigenous themes are incorporated into construction.
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Los andenes alrededor de la plaza son cubiertos por los aleros y temas indígenas son incorporados en la construcción.
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The road ahead of San José is earthed with easy riding conditions. However from San Ignacio to Concepción it had some surprises. Although most of the road was packed moody with no difficulties,…………………………
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La carretera adelante de San José es en tierra pero de fácil manejo. Sin embargo llegando a Concepción ella tenía algunas sorpresas. Aunque la mayoría del camino era pantano ya compactado sin dificultades, …………………….
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…………………..there were four lengths of about 500 meters each of genuine soap, not deep but absolutely slippery.
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…………………habían cuatro tramos de cerca de 500 metros cada uno de puro jabón, no profundos pero absolutamente lisos.
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I successfully made first and last, but tasted ground on the other two. When the driver of a pickup truck came to help me placing Suzi on her wheels, we hardly could be able to be on our feet. When I left the second length (the first I fall in), I checked out my mirrors just to see the Toyota traversed in the road and with their back wheels almost into the ditch. The driver had not still engaged the 4-wheel drive. What would I say with only 1-wheel ride ?
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Pasé bien el primero y el último, pero probé tierra en los otros dos. Cuando el conductor de una camioneta paró a ayudarme a poner a Suzi sobre sus ruedas, nosotros difícilmente éramos capaces de mantenernos en pié. Cuando salí del segundo tramo (el primero en que caí), miré por los espejos sólo para ver la Toyota atravesada en la vía y con sus ruedas traseras casi en la cuneta. El conductor no había puesto aún las cuatro ruedas. Qué podría yo decir con sólo una ?
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CONCEPCIÓN.
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SAN JAVIER.
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I reached Santa Cruz de la Sierra late afternoon. Looking for hotel, I parked Suzi close of a KTM. Because it hadn’t room in the hotels around the site, I was sit on the walkway thinking going sleeping to a fire-fighters station or similar. Suddenly a gentleman – Herman – came to chat about bikes, he was the KTMer. He offered me a place in their motor bike club campus – www.motoclubsantacruz.com - , a luxury place with pool and other facilities.
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Llegué a Santa Cruz de la Sierra tarde. Buscando hotel, parqueé a Suzi cerca a una KTM. No había espacio en los hoteles alrededor del sitio y me encontraba sentado en el andén pensando irme a una estación de bomberos o a algún lugar similar. Vino entonces un caballero – Herman – a charlar acerca de motos, él era el de la KTM, y me ofreció un lugar en la sede de su club de motos – www.motoclubsantacruz.com - , un lujo con piscina y todo.
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Choosing the lockers room I had three nice sleeping nights.
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Escogí los apartados en donde pasé tres buenas noches.
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Next day they had a meeting and I was introduced to many riders, what a friendly welcoming.
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Al siguiente día ellos tuvieron una reunión en la cual fui presentado con varios motociclistas, qué amistosa bienvenida.
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Posted by Santiago Lema at April 15, 2009 06:54 PM GMT
 


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