December 16, 2008 GMT
16. Cuzco Titicaca

.
.
Qoricancha was the main Inca temple in Cuzco, meaning “ the precincts of the gold “. All the treasures, gold, silver and gems were robbed by conquistadores. Construction precisely cut rocks were used all around the city as general quarries. What a sin!!. Luckily, Dominicans, who received the precinct to built a convent, preserved some of the rooms that could be seen today under the colonial corridors of the convent. Horizontal and vertical cut rock interlocking and to-inside leaning walls have been seismic-proof through the centuries.

.
Qoricancha12.jpg
.
Qoricancha18.jpg
.
Qoricancha19.jpg
.
.
Amigo: ahora puedes leer la historia completa en mi libro "La Suramérica que recorrí". Ve a www.palibrio.com. Las fotos, míralas aquí.
.
.
Qoricancha fue el templo principal Inca en Cusco y significa “ el recinto del oro “. Todos sus tesoros, oro, plata y gemas fueron saqueados por los conquistadores. Las rocas finamente cortadas fueron usadas en toda la ciudad para levantar las obras coloniales. Qué gran pecado!!. Afortunadamente los Dominicos, quienes recibieron el recinto para construir un convento, preservaron algunos de los espacios que pueden observarse hoy bajo los corredores coloniales del convento. Las interconexiones horizontales y verticales, así como la inclinación hacia-adentro de los muros han probado ser sismo-resistentes a través de los siglos.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
On Thursday, December 9-08, I left Cuzco heading to Cailloma, a town close to the Amazon River source, 310 km far away. The road, firstly paved and very good, was getting to bad to worse, with snow/hail/rain storm included at the 4.500 m pass before Cailloma. Hours earlier, the jacket regulator was burnt out, so I was riding with no heating aid and gloves absolutely soaked and cold.
.
HaciaCailloma2.jpg
.
HaciaCailloma4.jpg
.
HaciaCailloma6.jpg
.
El 9 de diciembre salí de Cusco hacia Cailloma, un pueblo cerca de las fuentes del Amazonas, distante 310 km. La carretera, primero pavimentada y muy buena, se fue deteriorando de mal en peor, incluyendo una tormenta de nieve/granizo/agua en el paso de montaña a 4.500 m antes de Cailloma. Horas antes el regulador de la chaqueta eléctrica se había quemado por lo que yo estaba manejando sin ayuda térmica y con los guantes absolutamente empapados y helados.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
I didn’t know that the worse and more dangerous section of the road was coming ahead where the road crosses an important stream, now out of course and inundating the whole valley because the heavy rain. Big and deep ponds were everywhere, in many points I couldn’t see where the track was. I couldn’t wait up to some receding of the waters because dusk was close. So, Suzi went for some swimming, expelling steam at the most deep pools. Almost completing the stream crossing, I saw one of the pools similar to the others I already had ridden into, but when I was in the middle of it, I noticed I had my boots half into the water. With no available round-trip ticket, I had no more option that accelerate a little more to maintain momentum, I didn’t want to soak my undies. Clouds of warm steam came to my face misting my goggles. I maintained equilibrium and speed up to I finally was at the other side. What a fright! Suzi just dripping water, at least now she was clean.
.
HaciaCailloma7.jpg
.
Yo no sabía que la peor y mas peligrosa parte de la carretera estaba adelante donde ella cruza una amplia quebrada, ahora salida de madre e inundando todo el valle debido a la fuerte lluvia. Habían grandes y profundas lagunas por todas partes, de tal manera que el sendero se perdía a todo momento. Y no podía esperar a que las aguas retrocedieran un poco pues el anochecer estaba cerca. Entonces Suzi partió a nadar un poco, echando vapor en los charcos más profundos. Ya casi para terminar el cruce de la quebrada, un charco parecía similar a los otros que ya había cruzado, pero cuando estaba en el medio de él, me di cuenta de que tenía las botas hasta la mitad dentro del agua. Sin tiquete de regreso, no tuve mas opción que acelerar un poco mas para mantener el impulso, no quería que se me mojaran los calzoncillos. Salieron nubes de vapor que me empañaron las gafas. Mantuve el equilibrio y la velocidad hasta que finalmente estuve al otro lado. Qué susto! Suzi escurriendo agua por todas partes, al menos ahora estaba limpia.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Next day this was the stream aspect. I don´t know where I did cross it.
.
Cailloma7.jpg
.
Al siguiente día este era el aspecto de la quebrada que pasé sin saber por dónde.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
I was frustrated, I couldn´t go to the Amazon source. Too many adverse factors. Snow was covering the landscape I was going to, a 4.000 m plateau. There was not a “road” (said, with traffic), it was just a track used by a car probably once a week. Not inhabited places in between, so no sources to confirm the way. Furthermore, I was riding solo with Suzi and with a no-totally restored knee. In Cailloma I couldn’t rent a horse because they hardly exist in town.
.
Cailloma1.jpg
.
Alguna frustración sentí ese día sin poder ir al nacimiento del Amazonas, pero habían muchos factores en contra. La nieve cubría todo el paisaje hacia donde me dirigía, es un páramo a 4.000 m . No era una “carretera” (digamos con tráfico), era sólo una trocha por la que pasaba tal vez un carro a la semana y sin lugares habitados dónde confirmar el camino. Además, estaba solo con Suzi y con una rodilla no completamente sana. Y no pude alquilar una bestia porque prácticamente no existen en el pueblo.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
And as a finally factor, this was the first little pond I found after leaving the main road that heads to some mines. I couldn’t see its bottom, but I’m sure it was more than half meter deep. Some driver said that more ponds were waiting for me after riding up the hill. See the track continuing at the left. So, I u-turned here, safety is better than police.
.
Cailloma2.jpg
.
Y como factor final, este fue el primer charquito que me encontré después de dejar la vía principal que va a algunas minas. No pude verle el fondo, pero estoy seguro que tenía más de medio metro de profundidad. Un conductor me dijo que habían mas esperándome después de subir la colina. Vea la trocha continuar por la izquierda. Entonces me regresé, es mejor la seguridad que la policía.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Continuing to Colca Canyon, at least I drank water from the longest Amazon tributary. Hornillos Creek is formed by three small streams, been one of them, Carhuasanta, the one which comes from McIntyre Lake, the true source of the Amazon in the slopes of Mount Mismi. Hornillos Creek change its name down stream to Apurimac, to Ene, to Tambo, to Ucayally, to Amazon.
.
Amazonas1.jpg
.
Continuando hacia el Cañón del Colca, al menos pude beber agua del tributario mas largo del Amazonas. El Río Hornillos está formado por tres pequeñas quebradas, siendo una de ellas, la Carhuasanta, la que nace en el Lago McIntyre, la verdadera fuente del Amazonas en las faldas del Nevado Mismi. El Hornillos cambia su nombre río abajo a Apurímac, luego a Ene, a Tambo, a Ucayally y finalmente Amazonas.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
In Chivay, they still were celebrating the Virgin Mary Immaculate Conception. Women dress their multicoloured “polleras”. Neighbourhoods perform in “comparsas” to get a prize.
.
ChivayPolleras1.jpg
.
Chivay16.jpg
.
En Chivay aún estaban celebrando la fiesta de la Inmaculada Concepción. Las mujeres lucen sus “polleras” multicolores. Los barrios organizan comparsas para competir entre sí.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
My plan was to ride down to Cabanaconde on Colca Canyon (twice as deep as the Grand Canyon), turning back next day early morning to see the condors from the site they use to fly. The canyon shoulders are cultivated, but in the slopes you can hardly see any animal.
.
ColcaCanyon3.jpg
.
ColcaCanyon4.jpg
.
ColcaCanyon5.jpg
.
ColcaCanyon6.jpg
.
El plan era ir hasta Cabanaconde en el Cañón del Colca, que es el doble de profundo que el Cañón del Colorado, para regresar al día siguiente temprano al sitio donde se avistan los cóndores. Las partes superiores del cañón están bien cultivadas, pero en las laderas escasamente se ve algún animal.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
At 6:20 I already was at the spot called the Cruz del Cóndor. Before condors show up, I was rewarded with beautiful views of the canyon and surroundings.
.
ColcaCanyon17.jpg
.
ColcaCanyon19.jpg
.
ColcaCanyon22.jpg
.
ColcaCanyon24.jpg
.
image
.
image
.
image
.
ColcaCanyon37.jpg
.
A las 6:20 estuve en el sitio de avistamiento llamado La Cruz del Cóndor. Antes de que los cóndores dejaran sus pernoctaderos, fui recompensado con hermosas vistas del cañón y sus alrededores.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Looking for the big birds, I was checked out for another smaller birds.
.
ColcaCanyon30.jpg
.
ColcaCanyon31.jpg
.
Mientras buscaba las grandes aves, yo era chequeado por otros pájaros mas pequeños.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
The first one appeared at 7:15 am.
.
ColcaCondores10.jpg
.
El primero apareció a las 7:15 am.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Next, two were in focus. But I was in the wrong spot, far away from the hill been warmed by sun rays they were using to ascend. I had to decide: staying in a not good location where I was sure to observe them, or to run up the hill to a better location, risking the moment. I took the risk, a non easy sporting at 3.800 m.
.
ColcaCondores11.jpg
.
Después fueron dos. Pero yo estaba en el lugar equivocado, lejos de la colina bañada por los rayos del sol que ellos estaban empleando para ascender. Tenía que decidir: quedarme en un lugar no muy bueno pero seguro de verlos, o correr colina arriba hasta un lugar mas cercano a ellos, pero arriesgando no volverlos a ver. Me arriesgué, una trepada no fácil a 3.800 m.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
I counted up to 13 of them. They use thermal air streams to ascend from the sites deep the canyon they passed the night. When thermals are not still strong, they just wait. I didn’t it know, but their waiting gave me time to climb closer. My day was paid I full.
.
ColcaCondores20.jpg
.
ColcaCondores28.jpg
.
Conté hasta 13. Ellos usan corrientes térmicas de aire para ascender desde los sitios profundos del cañón donde pasan la noche. Cuando las corrientes no son aún fuertes, ellos simplemente esperan. Yo no lo sabía, pero su espera me permitió llegarles mas cerca. Me gané el día.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
image
.
image
.
image
.
image
.
image
.
image
.
image
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Having arrived too late, people had to deal with their frustration when condors were already high in the sky, while others, more optimistic, were looking down to the empty canyon.
.
ColcaCondores42.jpg
.
ColcaCondores43.jpg
.
ColcaCondores44.jpg
.
Habiendo llegado tarde, mucha gente tuvo que soportar su frustración cuando los cóndores estaban ya muy altos en el cielo, mientras que otros, mas optimistas, auscultaban el fondo del cañón.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Same day, I left Colca Canyon and headed for Titicaca region. The views were amazing. Sabancaya and Ampato were beatifull.
.
Sabancaya2.jpg
.
Sabancaya3.jpg
.
Ese mismo día dejé el Cañón del Colca y me encaminé hacia la región del Titicaca. El paisaje fue espectacular, Sabancaya y Ampato luciendo preciosos.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Mismi was also clear. I should be some day over there.
.
Mismi1.jpg
.
El Mismi también estaba despejado. Debo estar allí algún día.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Misti and Chachani were also on sight from the 100km long puna.
.
HaciaJuliaca6.jpg
.
El Misti y el Chachani también se veían desde la puna de 100 km de longitud.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Before getting Puno I paid a visit to the funeral towers of Sillustani. The “chulpas” are Kollas (older) and also Incas (more recently). Because the daring design with a larger diameter in the superior part, they have not resisted earthquakes and are been destroyed. Some have 3/8” wire ties but they should have steel cables.
.
Sallustani1.jpg
.
Sallustani15.jpg
.
Sallustani18.jpg
.
Ya en la cuenca del Titicaca y antes de llegar a Puno, visité el centro funerario de Sillustani, con sus chulpas circulares, algunas Kollas y otras Incas. Son estructuras en piedra que contenían en su interior los restos del personaje. Debido a su osado diseño, de mayor diámetro arriba que abajo, no han soportado los sismos y se han ido destruyendo. Algunas tienen un amarre muy precario con hierro de 3/8 de pulgada. Ellas merecen al menos cables de acero.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Those built with no outside-leaning walls are in better conditions although they are older.
.
Sallustani24.jpg
.
Las construidas sin muros inclinados hacia afuera se encuentran en mejor estado, siendo mas antiguas.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
The “Lizard” is the biggest and show up seism action.
.
Sallustani28.jpg
.
Sallustani31.jpg
.
Sallustani30.jpg
.
Sallustani27.jpg
.
Esta, que es la mas grande y llamada “de la Lagartija”, evidencia la acción de los sismos.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
The entrance to funeral camera is very small.
.
Sallustani33.jpg
.
La entrada a la cámara funeraria es bien pequeña.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
In the way to Sallustani, is interesting how inhabitants form groups of houses, tying them with stone walls to make closed precincts. The access is under arcs, and over these some small statues are seen.
.
HaciaSillustani2.jpg
.
HaciaSillustani3.jpg
.
De camino a Sallustani, me llamó la atención cómo los habitantes se organizan en pequeñas aldeas, uniendo las casas con muros para formar recintos cerrados. El acceso es bajo arcos y sobre éstos hay estatuillas de vacunos.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
I didn’t know I had my own place here. Santi Wasi means Santi’s Place.
.
HaciaSillustani6.jpg
.
No sabía que tenía mi propio sitio aquí. Santi Wasi significa “ el lugar de Santi “.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
The Inca Uyu temple in Chucuico boasts many phally and other fertility symbols.
.
Chucuico2.jpg
.
El templo Inca Uyu en Chucuico expone símbolos de fertilidad.
.
.
-----------------------------------------
.
.
Arriving to Titicaca Lake in a spectacular day. I took advantage of the beautiful site beside the lake to have breakfast-on-the-road. I was close to Peru-Bolivia border.
.
Titicaca5.jpg
.
Desayuno3.jpg
.
La llegada al Titicaca fue en un día espectacular. Aproveché el precioso sitio al lado del lago para desayunar con Milo colombiano comprado en Perú. Ya estaba cerca de la frontera Peru-Bolivia.

Posted by Santiago Lema at December 16, 2008 03:10 PM GMT
 


HU DVD Summer Special!

Now that summer is here, get On the Road! Take 30% off the Achievable Dream - On the Road! 2-DVD set until August 31 only. Get On the Road! Learn the tips to staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure!

Our veteran travellers share their tips (and great stories) for staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure.

"A fantastic, informative and inspirational DVD."

"It's brilliant - thank you very much!"

Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'ONTHEROAD' on your order when you checkout.


Renedian Adventures


Renedian Adventures

What others say about HU...

"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada

"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia

"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders

contest pic

10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!

NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!

HU 2014 T-shirts now in!

Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!


What turns you on to motorcycle travel?


Global Rescue, WORLDwide evacuation services for EVERYONE

Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!


New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.


Books & DVDs

amazon

All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.


Motorcycle Express for shipping and insurance!

Motorcycle Express

MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!

Story and photos copyright ©

Sorry, you need a Javascript enabled browser to get the email address and dates. You can contact Horizons Unlimited at the link below. Please be sure to tell us WHICH blog writer you wish to contact.

All Rights Reserved.

Contact the author:

Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.

Hosted by: Horizons Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!