December 01, 2008 GMT
14. Huánuco to Cuzco

In Huánuco I made maintenance: Suzi was washed and changed oil, my boots shined, my body renewed
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Amigo: ahora puedes leer la historia completa en mi libro "La Suramérica que recorrí". Ve a www.palibrio.com. Las fotos, míralas aquí.
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En Huánuco hice mantenimiento: lavé a Suzi, le cambié el aceite, embetuné mis botas, y renové fuerzas.

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I rode to Gollarisquizga, an old coal mine closed in the 60´s, but I didn’t know. Riding was not worth, the mine site is under recovery, nothing to see.
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Fuí a Gollarisquizga, una vieja mina de carbón que fue cerrada en los 60, pero yo no sabía. El viaje no valió la pena, nada para ver.
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Luckily, coming back to Cerro de Pasco, I found these pretty vicuñas,
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Afortunadamente de regreso a Cerro de Pasco, encontré estas preciosas vicuñas,
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and a few sections of the stone-paved old Inca Road.
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Y varios tramos del empedrado camino Inca.
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Cerro de Pasco, an important mining center at 4.330 m, too cold at night.
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Cerro de Pasco, un importante centro minero a 4.330 m, demasiado frío en la noche.
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The pit of Cerro de Pasco, a poly-metal production. Look at the truck in the road for having a scale of the pit-size.
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El hueco de la mina que produce múltiples minerales. Observe el camión en la vía de salida para que tenga una idea del tamaño del hueco.
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Here is the truck, did you localize it in the previous picture?
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Aquí está el camion, ya lo localizó en la fotografía anterior?
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Southern ahead is the puna (big and high flat land) of Junín, where the South American army under Simon Bolivar defeated the Spaniard Royalists on August 6, 1824. Junín puna is over 4.250 m, one of the world’s largest high-altitude plains.
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An obelisk marks the battlefield. The battle was carried out with no fire-weapons, only spades and lances.
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Un obelisco marca el sitio de la batalla, que fue realizada sin disparar armas de fuego, sólo espadas y lanzas.
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La Oroya is another mining center. Colourful rocks are around.
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La Oroya es otro centro minero. Hay rocas de todos los colores alrededor.
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Third day in a row, I was riding on tarmac, Suzi was happy. Switch backs still are common, but almost perfect roads made them the motorcyclist happiness.
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Por tercer día consecutivo, estaba rodando en pavimento, Suzi estaba feliz. Los zigzag todavía son comunes, pero con carretera casi perfecta, se convierten en la delicia del motociclista.
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Suddenly, after a curve, colourful Chincha Alta village appeared.
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Súbitamente después de una curva apareció Chicha Alta, un caserío lleno de color
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People paint the facades as no other village I have seen in my trip. Cleanness is present everywhere. What a difference with other villages!
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La gente pinta las fachadas de una manera nunca vista antes en mi viaje. La limpieza está presente en todas partes. Qué diferencia con otros pueblos!
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Indeed in these mountains, marine themes are worked.
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Hasta motives marinos encontramos en estas montañas.
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The contrast is evident from far away. Chincha Alta, the colourful town is at the right, its brownish neighbour at the left.
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El contraste es evidente desde lejos. Chincha Alta, colorida, está a la derecha; el pueblo vecino, color tierra, a la izquierda.
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The tarmac was not longer after Huancavelica. Now, I was riding toward the highest pass in the Americas, Abra Huayrajasa at 5.059 m. Rocks and soils are multicolour, the landscape surrealist.
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El pavimento se terminó en Huancavelica. Ahora estoy rodando hacia el paso más alto de las Américas, Abra Huayrajasa a 5.059 m. Las rocas y los suelos son multicolores, el paisaje es surrealista.
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A few kilometres before Abra Huayrajasa, I catch Nepalist Japhy Dhungana in his bike pulling a trailer. Japhy is an anthropologist at UCLA who decided to know South America through the back roads, as me. The small difference is that Suzi has more than 40 HP, while Japhy………….. I admire so much cyclists because their strength. His web site, www.transformundo.com , and his e-mail, Dhungana@ucla.edu.
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Pocos kilómetros antes de Abra Huayrajasa, alcancé al nepalés Japhy Dhungana en su bicicleta con remolque. Japhy es un antropólogo de la Universidad de California quien decidió conocer Suramérica por las carreteras pequeñas, como yo. La pequeña diferencia es que Suzi tiene más de 40 caballos de fuerza, mientras Japhy………………. Admiro mucho los ciclistas por el gran esfuerzo que hacen. Su sitio web es www.transformundo.com, y su correo es dhungana@ucla.edu.
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Very close to Huayrajasa.
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Muy cerca de Huayrajasa.
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And just in the site, one of my trip goals. My GPS registered a little lower altitude that the maps.
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Y justo en el sitio, una de las metas de mi viaje. El GPS registró una aaltitud un poco menor que la de los mapas.
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Riding down to Santa Lucia, Choclococha (sweet-corn lake) is beautiful in this puna.
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Bajando hacia Santa Lucía, Choclococha (laguna choclo) es hermosa en esta puna.
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In Santa Ines I had a front flat tire, and broke my tire trying to put it into the rim, a lack-of-experience consequence. After several tries and several patches in both, my regular and my spare inner tubes, I managed to install a shoe (protector) between the rim and the tube to prevent the wires punching the tube. I left at 6 pm with only half hour of remaining day-light and in the middle of a snow storm. My electrical jacket and gloves were helpful again, this time in a very critic condition. No cars were in the road and the desolation in this páramo was total. The riding was going down, so the snow changed to sleet to rain, and the road surface changed from stable to slippery mood. My major concern was the tyre was not to fail, exploding or going out from the rim, so I rode TOO slowly. One hour after, I reached a small village in the darkness, Pilpichaca. Heading to the almost unique light at the end of the street, I came to the police commissary. They were very helpful offering me staying there overnight. I did it.
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En Santa Inés tuve pinchazo delantero, y dañé la llanta al montarla en el rin, consecuencia de la falta de experiencia. Después de varios ensayos y varios parches en mis dos neumáticos, el regular y el de repuesto, logré instalar un zapato (protector) entre el rin y el neumático para evitar que los alambres rotos de la llanta pincharan el neumático. Salí a las 6 de la tarde con sólo media hora de claridad disponible y en medio de una nevada. La chaqueta y guantes eléctricos fueron esta vez un importante soporte dadas las condiciones tan críticas. No habían carros en este desolado páramo. Rodando hacia abajo, la nieve cambió a granizo y luego a agua, por lo que el suelo cambió de estable a pantano liso. Mi principal preocupación era que la llanta no fuera a fallar, abriéndose del todo o saliéndose del rin, por lo que rodé MUY despacio ya en medio de la oscuridad. Una hora más tarde llegué a un caserío sin luces, Pilpichaca. Me dirigí a la única luz que había al final de la calle, era la comisaría de policía. Fueron muy atentos ofreciéndome quedarme a pernoctar allí; comida fue compartida y una cama ofrecida para pasar la noche, diría yo, mucho lujo comparado con las condiciones de manejo de la hora anterior.
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Next day was wonderful when I left Pilpichaca. The tire was absolutely inflated, so I took the road to Ayacucho, again at low speed to prevent the tyre failing.
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El siguiente día estaba hermoso cuando salí de Pilpichaca. La llanta estaba bien inflada, tomé el camino a Ayacucho de nuevo a baja velocidad para prevenir el fallo de la llanta.
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The sight of Ayacucho (formerly Huamanga) from the mountains was a rest in my mind. I was close to do it. In Ayacucho, after registering at the hotel, I got a new tyre, a Brazilian Pirelli. What a stressing day!
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La vista de Ayacucho desde las montañas fue un descanso en la mente. Estaba ya cerca de llegar; una vez allí, después de registrarme en el hotel, conseguí una nueva llanta, una Pirelli brasilera. Qué día tan estresado!
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Next day, Wednesday, November 26-08, I made a trip to La Quinua Pampa, where the decisive battle for Peruvian liberty was carried out. Patriotic forces were 5.800 effectives commanded by Antonio José de Sucre, named after the battle, El Mariscal de Ayacucho ( Ayacucho Marshal). Spaniard forces were 8.200 soldiers. An obelisk mark the site, some 40 km away from Ayacucho city.
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Al día siguiente, miércoles noviembre 26-08, fui a La Pampa de Quinua, donde se realizó la batalla decisiva por la libertad del Perú. Las fuerzas patriotas eran 5.800 efectivos comandadas por Antonio José de Sucre, nombrado después El Mariscal de Ayacucho. Las fuerzas españolas eran 8.200 hombres. Un obelisco marca el sitio, a 40 km de Ayacucho.
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Antonio Jose de Sucre, El Mariscal de Ayacucho, in Ayacucho Plaza de Armas.
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Antonio José de Sucre, El Mariscal de Ayacucho, en la Plaza de Armas de Ayacucho.
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Coming back, I visited Wari ruins. The Wari empire developed from 500 AD to 1.100 AD, so is pre-Inca, and covered almost the whole Peruvian sierra and coast lands. They were fiery warriors but with good administrative techniques. Here their maces.
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De regreso visité las ruinas de Wari, el imperio que duró desde 500 DC hasta 1.100 DC, por lo que es pre-Inca, cubriendo casi toda la cordillera y costas peruanas. Fueron tremendos guerreros pero con buenas técnicas administrativas. Estas son algunas de sus mazas.
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Stone aqueducts
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Acueductos en piedra
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They practiced skull deformation.
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Practicaban la deformaqción craneana.
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Fashions are wonderful
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Maravillosas modas.
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And to complete the day, I went up to Pikimachay (cave of fleas), probably the most ancient settlement discovered in South America, 20.000 years. Pikimachay is in the middle of the hill.
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Y para completer el día, subí a Pikimachay (la cueva de las pulgas), probablemente el asentamiento humano más antiguo descubierto en Suramérica, con 20.000 años de antigüedad. Pikimachay está a media colina.
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The cave is about 20 m wide and 10 m deep. The vista is spectacular. Indeed the commemorating obelisk is seen in the distance.
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La cueva es 20 m de ancho por 10 de altura. La vista es espectacular, inclusive se vé el obelisco en la distancia.
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While having a drink close to Pikimachay, I met Rodrigo and Nelson, who taught me how the people around the site, very dry, make their income. The cochinilla (wood-louse) lives in a kind of cactus. People collect it for the industry to produce the carmine color, a dark red, from the cochinilla blood.
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Mientras tomaba gaseosa cerca a Pikimachay, me encontré con Rodrigo y Nelson, quienes me explicaron cómo la gente alrededor del sitio, que es muy seco, consigue su sustento. La cochinilla vive en una especie de cacto. La gente la recolecta para la industria que produce con su sangre, roja muy oscura, el color carmín.
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Continuing after Ayacucho, the road climbs to 4.100 m. The puna (bleak plateau) crossing is 45 km long.
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Continuando después de Ayacucho, el camino sube a 4.100 m y a esta altura cruza la puna (páramo) por 45 km.
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The descending to Ocros is terrible: narrow, sloped, and loose gravel forming deep car-tracks, too dangerous for Suzi who wanted to lay down.
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El descenso a Ocros es terrible: estrecho, pendiente y con grava suelta formando profundas huellas de carros, muy peligrosas para Suzi que quería acostarse de lado.
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The Chincheros valley is pretty, green and spring-like weather.
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El valle de Chincheros es bello, verde y con clima primaveral.
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For more than 100 km around Andahuaylas, I saw this kind of stone-pave on the road. It seems that it was hand worked years ago
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Por mas de 100 km alrededor de Andahuaylas, observé que la carretera había sido empedrada previamente, obviamente, a mano.
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Arround Andahuaylas you can see wonderful landscapes, people plow on the whole hills that are not as sloppy as they are in the North of the country.
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Alrededor de Andahuaylas se ven bellos paisajes, la gente ara las montañas completas ya que no son tan pendientes como en el norte del país.
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The descending to Abancay is also hard and too long, coming from 4.160 m to 1.700 at Rio Pachachaca in 30 km.
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La bajada a Abancay también es muy fuerte y además larga, bajando desde 4.160 m a 1.700 en el Río Pachachaca.
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The river cold and clean waters asked me to enjoy the occasion.
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El río, de aguas frías y muy limpias me invitó a refrescarme.
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Edmilson Batista Dos Santos, from Brazil, says he’s carrying about 70 kg in his bike, so I did feel too light. He is heading North.
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Edmilson Batista dos Santos dice que su equipaje es de 70 kg , lo que me hizo sentir muy liviano. Vá hacia el norte.
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Going down to Curahuasi, after Abancay, curves on tarmac are not a problem, are wonderful.
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Bajando a Curahuasi, después de Abancay, las curvas en pavimento no son problema, son una delicia.
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The trip to Cuzco that day was abruptly interrupted when I saw “Cconoc Hot Springs” sign. This is a beautiful place in the left bank of the Apurimac River, the same I want to go up to the source because is the longest tributary of the Amazon. Water from the spring is not very hot but absolutely clear. The climate is warm.
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El viaje a Cusco ese día se vió abruptamente interrumpido cuando vi el aviso “Termales de Cconoc”. Es un bello lugar en la margen izquierda del Río Apurimac, el mismo que pienso remontar hasta su cabecera pues es el afluente mas largo del Amazonas. El agua del manantial es absolutamente transparente, aunque no muy caliente. El clima es cálido.
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Taking advantage of the zone, I chosed mangoes for breakfast.
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Sacando ventaja de la zona, preferí estos dulces mangos como desayuno.
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Political propaganda is the preferred finishing on facades along the ridden Peru.
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La propaganda política es el acabado preferido para las fachadas a lo largo de lo que he recorrido de Perú.
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Nevertheless, those proprietors found a better way to express. “Never, never give-up” and “Stand-up and continue ahead”
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Sin embargo, estos propietarios encontraron una mejor forma de expresión.
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In Cuzco is very dangerous peeing anywhere. “Prohibited to urinate and throw away waste, under penalty of thrash and arrest”.
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En Cusco es bien peligroso orinar en cualquier parte.
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In Casa Grande Hotel, Suzi found two KTM partners: Mike from USA and Jeff from Red Deer, Alberta.
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En el Hotel Casa Grande, Suzi encontró dos KTM con quien compartir: Mike de Estados Unidos, y Jeff de Red-Deer, Alberta.
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On the images, you can see my general progress up to Cuzco, and also the roads detail. Blue are paved, red are graveled, green are tracks. Reduce de zoom level in the right lower corner of your display to see the complete map.
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En las imágines ud. puede ver el progreso general del viaje, así como los detalles de carreteras. Azul es pavimento, rojo es afirmada, verde es trocha. Disminuya el zoom en la esquina inferior derecha de su pantalla para ver el mapa completo.

Posted by Santiago Lema at December 01, 2008 11:35 PM GMT
 
 

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