November 14, 2008 GMT
11. Caxamarca to Huamachuco

My next journey was from Caxamarca to Huamachuco, 180 km, only 50 paved at the beginning, through a pretty valley with smooth hills. The paved road, with good surface and curves easy to negotiate, is perfect for motorcycles. The smelling of green eucalyptus and also smoked coming from the stoves, made this section unforgettable.

Amigo: ahora puedes leer la historia completa en mi libro "La Suramérica que recorrí". Ve a Las fotos, míralas aquí..
Mi siguiente jornada fue desde Caxamarca hasta Huamachuco, 180 km, sólo los primeros 50 pavimentados por un valle hermoso con suaves colinas, diría que tipo Rionegro-La Ceja, especial para motocicletas por las curvas bien logradas en medio de olor a eucalipto verde y también quemado proveniente de las chimeneas campesinas.


As I left at 5:30 am and had breakfasted on the road only a small chocolate bar and two pieces of cake, at 11.00 it was time to fill up. At Saucacocha Lake I found a delicious trout I ate in full, spines, fins and head as well. I got Huamachuco at noon and installed my self in a hostel.



Como salí a las 5:30 am y había desayunado en la carretera sólo una chocolatina Jet y dos biscochos, a las 11 ya era hora de tanquear. En Laguna Sausacocha encontré trucha tan deliciosa y tostadita que me comí todo: espinas, aletas y cabeza. Llegué a Huamachuco después de medio día y me instalé en un hostal.


I inmediatelly left for Marca Huamachuco, an archaeological site of special beauty, unknown for almost every body. It ranks among de 10 top sites in Peru and dates since 2.300 years ago.

Salí inmediatamente para Marca Huamachuco, un sitio arqueológico de singular belleza, desconocido para casi todo el mundo. Está entre los 10 mas importantes de Perú y data desde hace 2300 años.


Marca Huamachuco is in the top of the mountain in the background.


Marcahuamachuco se encuentra en la cima de la montaña al fondo de la fotografía.


The first ruins begin to impress you.



Las primeras ruinas empiezan a impresionar


But the next ones are indeed more impressive because their length and height. These walls used to protect a big city. I ask my self: - How many people used to live here to build these kind of fortresses, and how bloody would be their neighbours to make them to build double walls up to 15 m high ?



Pero las siguientes son aún mas impresionantes por su longitud y altura. Estos muros protegían una gran ciudad. Yo me pregunto cuánta gente viviría aquí para hacer semejantes fortalezas, y además cómo de sanguinarios deberían de ser los vecinos para obligar a hacer paredes dobles de hasta 15 m de altura ?
I had not a friendly welcome at El Convento, they are everywhere.
No tuve una amistosa bienvenida al llegar al Convento, están en todas partes.
There are a few of complexes, but the one called El Convento ( the convent ) was the one most impressed me. It is a rectangle about 100 m side with rounded corners, double wall, one exterior and other interior, 3 meters apart each.




Hay varios complejos, pero el llamado El Convento fue el que mas me impresionó. Es un rectángulo como de 100 m de lado, con las esquinas redondeadas, con doble pared, una exterior y otra interior separadas 3 metros.


In some parts the wall is triple


En algunas partes hay triple pared


El Convento is a kind of castle. Interiorly it had a kind of rooms or houses, up to 3 stories high.









El convento es como un castillo. Interiormente tenía lo que pareciera ser habitaciones, de hasta 3 pisos.


Exteriorly the walls reach up to 15 m high.




Por fuera los muros alcanzan hasta 15 metros de altura


The wall enclosed an area 3 kilometres long by half wide, all of it in the summit of a mountain.



La muralla encerraba un área 3 kilómetros de longitud por medio de ancho, todo eso en la CIMA de una montaña.


The links at the corners show an well seismic-resistant construction knowledge, in a zone of strong seismic activity.


La traba en las esquinas muestra un adelantado conocimiento de construcción sismo-resistente en una zona que se caracteriza por fuerte actividad sísmica.


It is boring that mainly Machu Picchu gets all the attention from tourism. The value of Marcahuamachuco is its age, 2300 years compared with only 600 hundred of Machu Picchu.

Es triste que Machu Picchu atraiga casi toda la atención del turismo. El valor de Marcahuamachuco es su edad, 2300 comparados contra sólo 600 de Machu Picchu.

Posted by Santiago Lema at November 14, 2008 04:20 AM GMT

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