October 15, 2002 GMT
And then there were six...

Five weeks away and I think we're starting to get the hang of this travelling lark. We're getting used to the large crowds that form every time we stop to look at a map. Developing techniques for getting rooms for $4 instead of $5 is of course essential for any one on the road. But when you start to get a little too cocky, certain aspects of a different culture, such as what may be considered a normal introduction, can always pop up and leave you damn well speechless. "Hey mister, where your hair gone?" was certainly one of those moments.


Meeting up with Cliff, Jenny and Andreas to cross the Baluchistan desert from Iran to Pakistan changed our travelling experience to a small extent. Whilst we all felt more 'secure' in a group crossing such a difficult region, there was no doubt that everything took more time - from loading the bikes in the morning, to getting fuel from oil drums at the side of the road, to finding safe parking at night, most things take more time and progress slows. Of course, everybody travels for different reasons and it has made us appreciate even more, if there had been any doubt, that our schedule is a tight one and we don't have much slack for taking things easy.


The guest house at Bam was clean and cheap so we spent two nights getting organised, changing oil and so on before making our break for the border. During this short stay, Jenny and I became better acquainted than I would have preferred when, due to a faulty lock, she 'interrupted' me in the lavatory. Weakly disgusing her horror, she apologised and made her retreat without realising that she had now locked me in the loo. Some time later when I had only partially dismantled the door, her husband heard my pathetic pleas for help and released me from my by now rather pungent prison.

Peter Cotes Building Ltd. are proud to present their latest conservatory

Leaving the guest house at 6:30 would in theory allow us plenty of time to reach the Pakistan border in daylight - and we knew there was a government run guesthouse just over the border in Taftan that would make an ideal stop for the night. As the day and miles progressed, it became pretty hot, the water carried on the back of the bikes heated so much that it could easily have been used to make tea. And although we are now well accustomed to the beasts, our first wild camels were spotted so we of course stopped to take photos. Even more exotic were the dead ones. For some reason that remains unexplained, dead camels at the side of the road are turned into a sort of peculiar monument to the beast's own supercillious stupidity. Stones are piled up high around the rotted, parched carcases and bushes or foliage placed in their mouths. A custom that is unlikely to catch on in the UK. Headless dogs remain a perverse source of amusement and discussion on our now operational bike-to-bike intercoms.


The border crossing into Pakistan went smoothly and, although it was now dark, we found our way to the guest house without problems. As both generators had failed, by the light of gas lamps we ate some sort of prehistoric creature that must have had seven necks, three lungs and one kidney. Chicken it was not, and if we couldn't see to eat it, how the hell did he see what to cook? The morning after we declined to pay $6 for our coffees and headed for a planned stopover in the desert town of Dalbandin 200 miles further into the desert. Now this was a town, and the first time that we really felt that we were somewhere 'different'. The streets were full with people from different tribes and the noise, heat, dust, smells, sights and sounds were like nowhere else we had been. We really felt like adventurous explorers, as did the retired couple staying in the suprisingly decent hotel who had just cycled there from the South of England.

The day after saw a difficult ride to Quetta. It was one of those days when we just couldn't get it together and it seemed that every lorry wanted to force us of the road and every police checkpoint wanted us to stop and say hello. Even finding and negotiating for fuel proved tedious and laborious in the noon-day heat. However, at the checkpoints it is often necessary to sign in with passport and visa details so we noticed that a Dutch motorcyclist, Maarten, was only one week ahead of us. Maarten and I have often communicated via email during the run up to our own trips and I couldn't believe it when we finally discovered that he was in a hotel less than 1km away in Quetta. Maarten had just recovered after being holed up in his hotel room for 3 days with food poisoning, so obviously we all went out for a rather superb Pakistani curry and some blackmarket beers.


Loralai was the next destination for the now not-so-magnificent six and we made good progress until the road finished. Jenny was leading the pack and I started to doubt her navigation skills when we found ourselves riding along a dry river bed. This section turned out to be a 10 mile stretch of road being built almost entirely by hand. Gangs of workers sat at the side of the road breaking up road stone with hammers. In a country with 80% unemployment, I guess labour is cheap. But the scenery was beautiful with, astonishingly, trees and grass providing some relief from the monontony of the desert landscape of the last few days.


On reaching the small town of Loralai, we were immediately swamped by people, causing a fairly serious traffic jam in the narrow dusty main street. The atmosphere was not particularly friendly so we were glad to park the bikes and retreat to the guest house to get cleaned up. Shortly afterwards whilst I was in a tea shop discussing the Iraqi threat with a rather intense Afghan, Adrian popped by to let me know that there was now a policeman in our hotel who had politely informed him that this was a tribal region and our 'lives were in danger'. To the obvious delight of the hotel staff, the solution to this threat (whether real or imaginary) was to provide us with a small chap carrying a big gun. He was a sweetheart, clearly incapable of guarding anything but ours for the duration of our stay. So we took him out to eat, took him for a stroll around the town and joined in as his machine gun was passed between us and the hotel staff for photos.


Following an unremarkable overnight stay in Fort Munro and after discovering our most unpleasant lavatory yet in a Khoshab hotel bedroom, we arrived filthy and tired in the Pakistani capital city of Islamabad. One aluminium pannier had been damaged when Adrian embarassingly toppled gently from his BMW (in full view of the entire population of a small town) and this, in combination with a lot of hot miles and a horrendous sand storm in the Thall desert, meant that that a blow out was clearly in order. All six of us were really pleased to check into a decent hotel for a couple of days 'r and r', laundry and essential maintenance. Only $20 a night is affordable, even on our limited budget and Islamabad is a rather nice place where we can pass virtually un-noticed in the streets. Although restaurants as such are fairly limited, the food available from street stalls can be cheap and delicious and so I am rather worried to observe that I have actually put on some weight over the last five weeks!

Tomorrow, our group of six will split, as Adrian and I wish to spend less time than the others exploring the Karakorum Highway that leads over 600 km towards the Chinese border. This road is said to be incredibly beautiful and one of the wonders of the modern world, climbing to something like 5000m at our first stop at Gilgit. After this climb, we turn back, head for Lahore and then into India...


Posted by Sean Kelly at October 15, 2002 04:44 PM GMT

Dead dogs, camel monuments, stone throwing dwarves, perhaps Michael was right and you are in Langley Mill - you really should pop in for a cuppa. Adrian looks far too comfortable with that gun for my liking - perhaps he should borrow it to collect payments from his customers. Second thoughts, think I'll borrow it.

Good to hear your progressing. Keep us posted.

Posted by: Liam on October 15, 2002 06:12 PM GMT

Great photos. Glad to see your making good progress. Have you determined which handles better yet; the BMW or a camel?

Posted by: MJK on October 15, 2002 06:28 PM GMT

I don't want to look at Adrian holding his big weapon thankyou very much! There are websites for that sort of thing you know. What's next? Adrian holding a grenade, a rocket launcher and gripping a bowie knife between his teeth?

Posted by: tall paul on October 16, 2002 10:44 PM GMT

Good to see some pictures of guns and local trucks. Kay always thought I was a bit wierd for taking photos of things like that. I guess it's a guy thing. Take it easy guys.


Posted by: Glyn on October 18, 2002 10:13 AM GMT

After all this time in Islamic countries, just about everything is a guy thing! Or maybe we really are in Langley Mill...

But I here that camels need considerably less looking after than Porsches or Range Rovers for that matter. Especially dead ones.

Tarra from Gilgit on the Karakorum Highway in the very, very north of Pakistan.

Posted by: Sean Kelly on October 18, 2002 03:56 PM GMT

dear uncle sean

i have been to the fair.

i love you.


Posted by: Jennifer on October 18, 2002 07:53 PM GMT

dear brother sean

we have been to the fair too. do they have chips and gravy where you are?


Posted by: MJK on October 20, 2002 10:50 AM GMT

Hiya Bikerbuddies!
Just been checking yr progress after a little break - bin away to Menorca for 1 week with Paul(not quite as exotic (hmmm) as where you've been/or goin but a great hol. Been studying all the entries and prep pages and have the following comments:
1) not sure why Adrian's so proud of his beard mines much better!!!!
2) hope Adrian's been ironing his t'shirts properly
3) Dr Sean, have you been able to carry out any surgical procedures yet with your fantastic first aid kit! (either on Adrian or any dying camels?)
4) What are Nodders?
5) Whats Dawood
Anyway will try to log in more often and drop you a line.
Keep safe, Luv Julie

Posted by: Julie on October 20, 2002 05:51 PM GMT

Forgot to say its p'ing down here and v. cold but who cares, just about to tuck into a lovely Indian Takeaway - mmmmm, bet you can just taste the bahjis and gorgeous tikka sauce mmmm, dribble!
Keep the photo's coming but we need some more full frontal closeups!!!!!

Posted by: Julie on October 20, 2002 05:56 PM GMT


nice to follow your trip. As you wrote that Pakistan was the first place to be different, I was relieved, because for me Iran was not amazing enough, and I was affraid of this beeing my fault, but as you and other travellers said (and I remember), the interesting part beginns after the iranian border.

Wish you a nice time and be prepared to find in Thailand a more reasonable place than crazy India.


Posted by: Henrik on November 1, 2002 04:12 PM GMT

Hi Henrik

Good to hear from you! I know what you mean, Pakistan can certainly be a bit more 'interesting' than Iran, but maybe not in ways that we would like.

We've just been talking to two cyclists who were threatened with being shot in Baluchistan, no actual problems but scary nevertheless.

India, so far has been relaxing compared with Pakistan - the traffic in Lahore was the worst anyplace!

Where are you now?



Posted by: Sean Kelly on November 1, 2002 04:56 PM GMT

hello sean i am going to write a load of nonscense an i dont rreally care. Here is sum

Posted by: tash on June 22, 2003 08:53 PM GMT

hello sean i am going to write a load of nonscense an i dont rreally care. Here is sum

Posted by: tash on June 22, 2003 08:53 PM GMT

hello sean i am going to write a load of nonscense an i dont rreally care. Here is sum

Posted by: tash on June 22, 2003 08:53 PM GMT

hello sean i am going to write a load of nonscense an i dont rreally care. Here is sum

Posted by: tash on June 22, 2003 08:53 PM GMT

hello sean i am going to write a load of nonscense an i dont rreally care. Here is sum

Posted by: tash on June 22, 2003 08:53 PM GMT

hello sean i am going to write a load of nonscense an i dont rreally care. Here is sum

Posted by: tash on June 22, 2003 08:53 PM GMT

hello sean i am going to write a load of nonscense an i dont rreally care. Here is sum

Posted by: tash on June 22, 2003 08:53 PM GMT
Sorry, due to heavy form spamming, Comments are OFF.

NEW! HU 2015 Motorcycle Adventure Travel Calendar is now available! Get your copy now for some terrific travel inspiration!

HUGE, 11.5 x 16.5 inches, beautifully printed in Germany on top quality stock! Photos are the winning images from over 600 entries in the 9th Annual HU Photo Contest!

Horizons Unlimited 2015 Motorcycle Adventure Travel Calendar.

"The calendar is magnificent!"

"I just wanted to say how much I'm loving the new, larger calendar!"

We share the profit with the winning photographers. YOU could be in the HU Calendar too - enter here!

Next HU Eventscalendar

See all events


HU DVD Autumn Special!

Take 40% off Road Heroes Part 1 until October 31 only!

Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries two-up on a Harley); Dr. Greg Frazier (5 times RTW); Tiffany Coates (RTW solo female); and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).

The first in an exciting new series, Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers."Inspiring and hilarious!"

"I loved watching this DVD!"

"Lots of amazing stories and even more amazing photographs, it's great fun and very inspirational."

"Wonderful entertainment!"

Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'HEROES' on your order when you checkout.

Scottoiler automatic chain oilers. The most important accessory for your next motorcycle adventure!

Renedian Adventures

Renedian Adventures

What others say about HU...

"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada

"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia

"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders

contest pic

10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!

NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!

HU 2014 T-shirts now in!

Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!

What turns you on to motorcycle travel?

Global Rescue, WORLDwide evacuation services for EVERYONE

Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.

Books & DVDs


All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.

Motorcycle Express for shipping and insurance!

Motorcycle Express

MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!

Story and photos copyright ©

Sorry, you need a Javascript enabled browser to get the email address and dates. You can contact Horizons Unlimited at the link below. Please be sure to tell us WHICH blog writer you wish to contact.

All Rights Reserved.

Contact the author:

Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.

Hosted by: Horizons Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!