"...a woman alone? - on a moto! - that only makes it worse."....
I crossed into Mexico at the end of october through Nogales. Vehicles had to go 21km past the actual border to be processed. The paperwork only took 10mins but i had to wait in a queque for two hours!! Managed 150km before sunset on such a shitty road.
I did some hard miles to get over to the Pacific, just making over-night stops, until i found a secluded campsite near Mazatlan and relaxed for a few days.
A hurricane had ripped through San Blas and Puerto Vallarta, everyone i spoke to said the road was blocked. It had been 10 days though and i thought the road should be open now. The crews were still clearing some sections but it was passable...you never know ītil you go.
There was a lot of damage close to San Blas and the left side of the road was missing for 2kms. To be honest though, sometimes i couldnīt tell what was hurricane damage and what was normal rubbish!
I woke up in Puerto Vallarta to an earthquake. Five on the scale apparently. I thought i was imagining the bed rocking, but the jacket on the chair back was swaying too.
The coast road is a good ride (once outside of P.V. w/ potholes on every bend). Hardly any traffic and lovely ocean views. The 'down side', of course, are the freaking TOPES!!....killer speed humps that blend in with the road and are rarely signposted.
Finally cheap camping at Boca Beach, Boca de Iguanas. Palapa covered brick patio and a brick runway for the bike! It turns into an RV village in december, but now was nearly empty.
Thunder and lightening brought the rain; clammy and chilly. It continued all night and until 8:30 next morning. Tried to get dressed, but had to pee so bad, i couldnīt move. In desperation i filled and 8x5 zip bag! Donīt leave home without them. Maybe i could advertise for the company...101 uses.
I abandoned my camp for a night when i was taken in by Alaskans in La Manzanilla. Joanna and Michelle invited me in for breakfast, the best one i had in Mexico.
We walked to a waterfall and there were a lot of spider webs blocking the path. The spiders were 3" long (banana spiders?). As nominated web wacker, i left an unusually large and strong one intact; only to walk straight into it on the way back down!! Blood curdling scream and lots of 'twitching like a fiend'.
After three days of good laughs and good food i made my way along the lumpy potholed roads. And those damnable topes are driving me insane.
People are so surprised that i am travelling alone. All through the States it was..." oooh you're so brave". In Mexico it's...."youīre alone? All by yourself; no companion in the toilet?"....Or...."a woman alone? - on a moto! - that only makes it worse".
Then there is the riding gear. When i put on the jacket and pants, the boots and gloves, it looks and feels like getting dressed for toboganning.
Crossing the isthmus and continental divide to Chiapas, i encountered wicked, wicked winds. Day one on the lowland was difficult but not such a big deal. Day two in the mountains was terrifying. The curves became wind tunnels. I was held in place, and in little time it took to gear down i was blown toward the cliff edge. Be brave and breath! My nerves were stretched.
"...all them nights down in Mexico, that's one place i'll never go, in my life again.."
San Cristobal de las Casas was just what i needed. Live Cuban jazz and The 20th November Revolution celebrations.
Next HU Events
- Germany: May 29-June 1
- Greece: June 5-8
- Bulgaria Mini: June 13-14
- HUBB UK: June 19-22
- Montenegro: June 26-29
- NEW! Canada Maritimes: July 4-6
- USA Colorado: July 11-13
- Ireland: July 18-20
- Canada West: Aug 21-24
- USA North Carolina: Sept. 4-7
- France Mini: Sep 5-7
- Canada Ontario: Sept. 11-14
- NEW! UK - Haggs Bank: Sept. 19-21
- USA California: Sept. 25-28
- Aus Queensland: Oct 3-6
- Aus Perth: Oct 10-12
- Aus VIC: Oct 24-26
- NEW! Aus NSW: Oct 31-Nov 2
- NEW! South Africa: Nov 13-16
Buy the Achievable Dream Collectors Set and get Road Heroes Part 1 FREE!
Cooped up indoors in crap weather? Binge watch over 20 hours of inspiring, informative and entertaining stories and tips from 150 travellers! Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to order them both and use Coupon Code 'BoxSet+' on your order when you checkout.
What others say about HU...
"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada
"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia
"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders
10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!
NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!
Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!
What turns you on to motorcycle travel?
Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
Books & DVDs
All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.
MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!
Story and photos copyright © All Rights Reserved.
Contact the author:
Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.
Hosted by: Horizons
Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!