After Jackki left Marrakech I had a sense that essentially I had done what I wanted to do in Morocco and that the trip needed a boost to avoid the last week feeling like that long journey home after a great holiday. Had to get back to the mindset of travel being the holiday and find some momentum.

Decision made I decided to pile on the miles and head north with the objective of reaching Tanger quickly but without resorting to the motorway. It was a holiday weekend of some kind in northern Morocco so I made a few stops to watch the multi-coloured festivities but didnt hang around too long.

Got to Khenifra just as it went dark on Saturday night, found a hotel easily enough but went slightly up market in the hope of a hot shower. Success. Lots of miles in the bag and properly clean again!

Up early to a clear and beautiful morning, adjusted the chain on the bike in the shade and checked everything out. Started without problem and off we went headed north again.

Basically just kept going apart from fuel stops (unleaded for her, cafe au lait for me) and got to Tanger in early afternoon. Absolute chaos as expected but since I already had a ticket it was all made much easier since I simply had to ride up to the Police and Customs desk. Passport and bike paperwork stamped without the help of the many people offering it and then joining the queue of bikes and cars waiting to get on the fast ferry.

The Tangier Ferry Chaos

There were a dozen or so bikes this time and we were loaded straight after the foot passengers, of whom there seemed to be thousands and I was amazed just how trusting some of the guys were. They parked the bike as directed and then just left it to be strapped down by the crew. My paranoia was not allowing this and I strapped the bike down myself and checked it with the crew as always.

Rough crossing with sick bags being handed out and the boat jumping around all over the place. Bikes all okay and I rode off into Spain to start the return leg. Intention is to take a different route and see a little more of Spain, first stop Benalmedina and another hot shower but get me away from all these British holidaymakers with thousands of kids and English bars, cafes. This is not my kind of holiday location but it served its purpose last night.

During our time in Marrakech we took a car out to visit the SOS Childrens Village in Ait Ourir which is in the foot hills of the High Atlas not far from the city. It was an interesting opportunity to see the fantastic work done by the charity and the standard of what is being done for some of the most desperately needing kids is quite remarkable.

The village is established with a number of family homes and some common learning and recreational facilities. All are absilutely immaculate with modern equipment and provide a fantastic opportunity in life for the 90+ kids living there until they finish high school or college. There is a permanent staff on site including the Mothers who are employed to provide a true family sense for the kids as they grow up with each mother heading a family of 7-9 kids in one of the houses.

The staff include all you would expect for the care of young people and seem to thoroughly love their work, the environment and the kids. Adjacent to the village is school which the kids attend along with local children. The school is private but has some links to the charity so the kids are getting the best available private education which I am sure provides a platform for success in the future.

Overall we got the sense that the money being raised is being very well spent and the charity are pushing to open more homes to care for more and more kids all the time. Taking some of the most needing kids and giving them safety, love and an education to give them a real and fulfilling life. Top work SOS Childrens Villages!

Well Jackki arrived safely in Marrakech and I met her at the airport as planned. Had a fantastic weekend without really doing a whole lot and I guess that is what people do here. It feels hectic all the time, you walk around in the heat soaking up the atmosphere with a little eating, drinking and shopping thrown in. It was brilliant having Jackki along for a small part of the trip and I hope that in the future we will be doing trips like this together.

The Hotel CTM Room with a View

Jackki In the Air Conditioned Restaraunt

Is That Mint Tea I See You Drinking?

Left the bike in the garage all weekend being looked after in a rather piss stenched environment, pretty sure she was sulking but I had to look after the first lady in my life! That is why the blog got a good dose of neglect as well. Jackki left on Saturday and we decided the best option was to check out of the hotel, put Jackki and bag in a Petit Taxi and I would then follow them to the airport and hang around until we knew all was well.

Gave the bike a loving check over and apologised for three boring days (while nobody was nearby) and all seemed well. Chain was a little on the loose side but figured I would find a cooler spot in a day or so to adjust it rather than the blazing heat in front of the hotel. All seemed well until 2 seconds after Jackki was out of site in a taxi and I went to fire up the bike.........nothing.

Oh bo%&/cks thought I!

As I tried different things, wiggling switches and wires a sense of how little I know about the electrics and brain functions of the sulkiing madam on whom I would be relying to get home began to descend. The heat was unbearable, Jackki had disappeared and I had just a wee moment of stress.

Pulled off the seat and was staggered at the amount of sand that had gathered absolutely everywhere, this must be part of the problem surely? Cleared it out and wiggled some more wires but the bike still resolutely failed to start and sat with the word CHEC in the display as the only indication of a problem. Disconnected the battery for a few minutes, old controls engineer trick of switching it off and on again usually works. Clicked the cut out switch a few times, turned the key and hey presto. Thank F for that!

Met Jackki at the airport and saw her safely off then peeled my way off to find a way out of Marrakech.....

Had a great meal in the Jmaa Al Fna last night and walked around on my own for as long as I could to find my way around the Medina. Good fun and the hawkers are all so good natured and have so many victims available it is good fun.

Spent what was left of the evening enjoying the perfect hotel location by sitting drinking Coke while watching the square. That is a whole 9 days off the beer you should note!

Couldnt just hang around Marrakech all day since the bike (am thinking she needs a name right now but worry that this could be a really bad sign for my mental health) was calling to me from the smelly garage that she wanted to play. We set off with open minds just intent on exploration with a half plan to head out of the city and find some mountain roads. We headed toward Essaouria more by luck than anything and then turned off onto the R212 into the mountain. Rode a potholed tarmac road for miles and got the pay off when it finally headed for the hills. More stunning views and silence to savour, almost tempted to get off and climb a mountain but didnt have the right shoes.

Determined not to just turn around when the road ran out, which it did, we plotted a route that in theory would link either back to Marrakech on a different road or if really lucky link up with another mountain pass. Looked great on the map but yet again the confidence from the Lonely Planet map of Morocco proved to be entirely false. Going to compare some of these with the Michelin Map when I get the chance since once again a Yellow Major Road quickly turned into Piste. Stubborn as ever I carried on riding as the Piste got worse but even enjoying the off road riding more than I thought possible I quickly had to start thinking of ways to escape. Chose a piste with the mountain behind me and eventually refound the tarmac.

Back in the city now and just booked a car to pick Jackki up at the airport tomorrow and to whisk us both off to the SOS Childrens Village at Ait Ourir. Donations have now topped 400 quid so thanks for all your support. Will sign off now until the weekend.

Only a short update since I am working from the phone but I have arrived in Marrakech pretty much a half day ahead of schedule having done far more than I thought possible so far on the trip.

Checked into the hotel on the main square that Jason and I stayed in 21 years ago. all had a major overhaul since then and the price has gone up but it is all about location.

More tomorrow and maybe some pictures soon.

Decided to stick arround in Tinerhir and found a campsite in mid afternoon. Pitched in a sandy corner aith a bit of a whiff but managed to avoid too many stones where I would sleep.

Took a walk into town in the evening, about 1.5 miles and was happy to chat with people briefly on the way in and then didnt hang around too long in the main centre which is well designed and practiced for the art of tourist Dirham extraction. There was a fleet of 4x4 vehicles poised to take the excursion bus passengers from Marrakech up the Todra Gorge. Found a cafe vantage point and watched the professionals at work!

Stupid cooker let me down this morning and would not light reliably to get my morning coffee. Big negative for the Trangia petrol burner.

Got up at 7 and rode up the Todra Gorge without the weight of luggage on board and before the aforementioned professionals could gather for their days work. Was very tempted to do the piste loop across to the Dades Gorge but had done done any homework about the road conditions so bottled it. Save the Dades Gorge for the next trip.

Coffee in Todra Gorge

Sitting here in Ourazazate (spelling?) which looks like a nice place and I may decide to stay overnight. However the lure of the mountain pass to Marrakech is calling to me and will probably prove irresistable. Next update will be from the crazy world of Marrakech.

Cant upload pictures from internet cafe so will have to add them later when I get home. You will have to put with 1000 words instead.

The ride from the disappointing ErRachidia made me smile with stunning views across the Gorge du Ziz requiring frequent halts. Still made good progress and reached Merzouga by early afternoon for a first encounter with the stunning Sand Dunes of the Sahara. Weather was still and hot with the dunes perfectly set against a deep blue sky. Arrived at the Disneyland of the Dunes to be met by dozens of options for accomodation and plenty people trying to convince me they had the best to offer. Flat refused all offers just because they were starting to get on my tits and remembered a recommendation for the Kasbah Erg Chebbi for which I had seen a sign some miles back.

With the new found off road confidence I pitched across the piste road in the direction of the Kasbah. At times I worried that the bike would shake itself to bits but we made it safely without incident and I actually am beginning to enjoy this stuff instead of bricking myself. The going was much easier than my adventure of a few days ago in any case.

The Kasbah, the Dunes and the people I met at this beautiful location were simply fantastic. It was a tough decision to leave this morning with the promise of a camel trek into th desert on offer but the call of the road won me over.

The Sahara and a Head Scarf

I had a very relaxing afternoon chatting with Mohammed and Tarik from the Kasbah along with Dan and Greg from the US and then I walked out into the Erg Chebbi dunes at sunset. Breathtaking, partly through the wind which was blowing sand everywhere but mainly from the view. Fantastic dinner followed by another venture outside to gaze at the most star filled sky I have ever seen. There are so many stars that at first it is hard to pick out the common constellations we see at home.

My second 5AM wake up of the trip was definitely worthwhile to complete the experience by watching the sun rise over the dunes and just chilling out as the morning gradually warmed up.

I then wrenched myself away mid morning and am writing this from Tinerhir before finding a place to stay and riding through the Todhra Gorge. Seen a lot more bike travellers down in this part of Morocco, mainly French and German and was happy to chat to Debbie and Frank on their Hayabusa on the outskirts of Erfoud.

Anyone who visits this part of the world must visit the Erg Chebbi Kasbah and enjoy the warm welcome and spectactular sights on offer. Thanks Tarik and good luck with your travels later in the year, I will return with the family.

Dan and Greg, if you do read this blog then thanks for your company, good luck with your travels, especially in India later in the year and I hope you get that novel published.

Late last night I discovered that Morocco operates on GMT all year round. What I thought was 9 or maybe 8 AM was actually 7AM. Not so critical of the late mornings, whoops.

After a genuine lie in this morning until a real 8am I went to a cafe in town for breakfast and then set off for what was intended to be a slow speed exploration of minor roads in the Middle Atlas with a relaxed intent to reach either Midelt or if time allowed Er-Rachidia.

True to the plan I turned off the wonderful tarmac of the RN13 and headed off a little yellow road. The map showed the yellow would turn to white after a village but looked manageable on the map. Jackki will be laughing already knowing how this would work out just like every time I drag her out walking.

Well the tarmac gradually faded away to be replaced by hard packed stones which gradually faded away to loose packed stones and gravel. These were soon added to by big stones and ruts in the path that had this off road novice on touring tyres bricking himself but insisting it would get better soon.

The White Road.........

Stopped at the top of a steep descent to allow a van to come up the hill, bike hit big soon and down she went at a standstill. Discovered just how heavy it is when full of luggage but kind chaps in the van helped me pick her up. You may notice at this point that the bike has become firmly female and I refer to us, we etc.. This is an affliction I have picked up to justify talking to myself while riding since I am clearly talking to ,y partner in crime the VStrom.

Anyway no damage done and being too stubborn or stupid to give up and turn around at this point on I went. The piste got progressively worse but still a clear route and for an off road rider would I am be classed as easy. I could see a good bridge over a river ahead and was spurred on to think that tar,ac ,ust be getting close. On the other side of the bridge was what can only be described as a steep uphill footpath that I could never have convinced Jackki to walk up. Bugger.

Chatted to some kids, gave away first of the goodies brought along for this purpose and from one of the older ones eventually worked out where I was. Choice was turn around and retrace 10 miles of piste and find a different tarmac route orcarry on towards Kenifra up the aforementioned footpath. Finally seeing sense I turned around.

Pride stinging I gunned the throttle up the hill away from the river and found the bike transformed. It turns out to be true that a little confidence and picking up the pace is far far easier than tip toeing around. Bike and rider now feel we are piste novices rather than virgins and the route back worked out well. The tarmac roads were simply brilliant and the gorges and mountains were stunning.

I should mention also that it was bloody freezing in the mountains including small bits of snow still lying in odd places off the roads.

Snow!!

Back on the RN13 mid afternoon I had a great lunch in Midelt. Met some really nice Berber people who werent too upset when I flat refused to buy even a small carpet! The roads now through the mountains make the stuff I was raving about in Spain seem very tame.

Carried on to Er Rachidia from where I write this entry. Hotel looks okay but the place seems to lack any sense of a central area. Wishing I had stopped earlier at one of the Auberges by the side of the road down through the most stunning gorge I have seen so far in the High Atlas. Tomorrow we head for the Sahara and a likely tourist trip on a camel into the sand dunes

Slept like a baby and was happy to sleep in until 8AM and start my day. Well I say 8am but I was unsure if I should have put the clock back to UK time so in my mind it could have been 7AM. Dragged myself downstairs around 8/9 and was a little surprised how quiet everything was but got on with breakfast and getting the bike loaded and was soon on the road, headed for Chefchaouan.

View Over Chefchauoen Very Early in the Morning

Roads very quiet and arrived for a drink break and chill out in this lovely mountain village. Quiet still and starting to assume that Friday being the muslim holy day everyone had lie in after what seemed like a very late friday night for a nation of non drinkers!

Carried on making good progress without getting lost in Meknes and stopped for a superb lunch at the Cafe Volubilis overlooking the ancient Roman site. Decided that was close enough to ancient ruins and chilled out watching the world pass by and chatting to the owners. If it had been later in the day I could have stayed in one of the tidy looking rooms. How many hotels have a breeding colony of tortoises to keep you company?

View Over Volubilis

Took a detour en route to Azrou and found some stunning scenery and remote villages of the Middle Atlas and stopped for another coffee in Mrirt before taking the main road to Azrou. Checked in the Hotel Panoramic and was given a basic room with no panorama!

Walked into town and discovered Tagine for dinner. Hooked. Meat and vegatables slow cooked over charcoal in the Tagine were awesome. Azrou seems a pretty chilled place and I may go back on the return leg.

All going well until 4AM. Awoke to a huge bang like a wall falling down followed by the sound of breaking glass. Not sure what I thought it was cos I was too confused in the pitch black to think straight but I finally found the light switch. The TV wall bracket had chosen that moment to fail in spectacular style dumping the 20 inch TV on the floor from head height! It smashed big style and continued to pop and bang as the tube imploded for another half hour. Hotel just shrugged it off this morning so I guess they get a lot of foreign rock stars through the place.

The bad use of French in the title pretty much gives the game away and the reason I am using an Arabic keyboard to write this is because I am sitting in an internet cafe in Tetouan having arrived in Morrocco this afternoon.

A leisurely start from the campsite in Aracanes and I set off for Tarifa with half a plan to check out the ferry times and buy my ticket and then chill out by the beach for the evening. Couldnt bring myself to stop and am happy to report that from arrival at the port in Tarifa at 1415 I was exiting Tangier port with all paperwork completed by 1700 - impressive.

Then the fun started getting lost in Tangier before finally finding the N2 out towards Tetouan. I just kept going and tried to think as clearly as possible while surrounded by chaos and the old luck and sense of direction didnt let me down.

Found a hotel for less than last nights camping fee and had a walk around the Medina tonight. This place is great fun and I have had no hassle at all today so really looking forward to the next weeks explorations.

Not checked the mileage but we must be well over 1500 by now.